Got to say, Ive never been happier for you to say, “Get in there!” Fixing your own thing and fighting all the blowing away of components. Congratulations
amen to that on top of that this is actually the second time he fixed one of his own things his black light for drying stopped working in a earlier video he fixed that as well.
From one Steve to another, it was actually nice to see a repair that wasn't going someone's way, with components doing a vanishing act! Keep up the good work, love the videos you make, short, sweet and to the point!
Sad to think of all the good electronics that get thrown out every year from an equally small bit faulty. But as with all machinery...when they have issues the repair is often a simple matter but it's the FINDING of the issue that is the real bugger. Well done Steve!
Reminds me of an old IT legend I heard Big company has a fault in their giant mainframe computer. They call in an IT guy Guy walks in, looks around for a second, finds a component and puts a big chalk X mark on it The company then receives a bill from the IT guy. $40,000 "This is outrageous," the company says. "We demand that you itemize this bill." They receive an itemized bill: Piece of chalk: $1 Knowing where to draw the X: $39,999
problem with thoe "easy" repairs is, that you have to have the right parts lying around or you'll be waiting for them till they arrive. if you need the device NOW and can't wait days or even weeks, then that sucks. once you have those parts lying around, like Steve, it's always better to fix it yourself, if you have the talent. soldering irons are cheap, not sure about that heat-blower-thingy though
That cap made a journey across japan; references to another british youtuber aside, I have to say that I really enjoy watching your videos, when I watch your videos time fly like a capacitor.
Difficulties leading up to 10:45... pro-tip: toothpick instead of tweezers. It's made out of wood, so it doesn't conduct, nor wick away heat. Much easier to hold a surface mount component with. Also: hot air for desoldering only on such light components. Just put a little blob of solder onto your soldering iron, hold the component down on the wicked pads with the toothpick and stick it down. Then come back with the flux to tidy it up.
I winced watching the use of hot air, I spent years repairing camcorders and my use of hot air was minimal, no need on discrete components, removing or replacement, C53 had too much solder on, doesn't need big blobs, solder should curve down I also used kapton tape to shield delicate parts not aluminium tape.
I wont lie... I laughed my ass off to the flying capacitors and your video editing skill 😂😂😂 I know the struggle and I know how tiny those components are. Great work on fixing the thermal cam even without the help of a thermal cam ;) :)
Out of all the fix it guys I follow, u are the best😊,u could make a video about replacing a standard plug worth watching🙂,this guy deserves subscriptions 👍👍
Watching those tiny components fly off the board to a soundtrack extremely similar to an instrumental version of 'Living In A Box's eponymous debut song was absolute comedy gold. 😁Thank you for your sacrifice and congratulations on another successful fix. 👍👌
This beautiful soldering session! 🤣🤣🤣 For this type of work I always use two Weller WS80 soldering stations with needle tips! There are also soldering pliers from Weller for SMD R or C, but I don't have one. 😔
Louis Rossmann actually covered the flying capacitor thing in a video. It's not just the high airflow actually (although I'm pretty sure Steve ought to reduce it). What I noticed (if I see this right) is that Steve grabs the capacitor (and the voltage regulator by extension) at the very low end which means the metal sides don't make as well contact cause the tweezers are actually somewhat in the way. Louis recommended trying to grab the cap at a higher point so that when you place it the tweezers won't be in the way and the risk of the cap flying away would be much reduced. I don't know but it made a lot of sense when Louis explained it in his calming voice XD
These raps have been getting better and better these last few vids, they're genuinely becoming my favorite part of your videos. I wanna see where your flow goes next.
So many time you have seen the components flying away, and still you don't lower the air speed. I work with 10 - 15% airflow speed, and heats faster.. Still great job and a pleasure to watch
Sometimes I think a normal iron tip would be better Steve? But there again it is hard to guage because the magnifier does such a good job of, well, magnifying. Love the channel mate!
You have nice flux, solder and tips, so use them. After wicking the solder off, touch one pad of each component and use this pad to mount your component on the board. Once satisfied with the orientation, solder the other pads
As always a great episode and lots of successful humorous scenes with Mr. Picard. We too would run away if we were heated with 400 degree air. Regards.
Steve! If you're going to be doing more soldering in the same part of the board, why don't you cover newly soldered components - especially the minute ones - with a piece of tape once they're in place. And why don't you put the components you have removed, that you want to re-use, re-install or investigate, in one of the two lidded compartments on your blue work-board, then they would "ping" away or get blown away by your hot-air gun. I really enjoy your videos, your's and Vince's are my "go to" channels. Keep up the good work.
I have a request, and I hope it isn't taken in a bad way. The initial teardown used to be one of my favorites, for one reason: it's informative. If someone has a broken item, and need to find out to dismantle it, that section is amazing. With the patreon rap a lot is now cut off or filled with music someone may not want to hear. SO, here's my suggestion. Either at the end of the video, or even another channel, maybe have just that portion with your voiceover as you find those hidden screws and tabs and such so people can use your videos to help! Or I'm just out of my element, and feel free to ignore me.
He'd increase his watchtime numbers on this channel significantly if he had a separate channel for the masochists that enjoy the excruciating "music" that make the teardown section unwatchable for most adults.
@@dazza4983 I skip them every time - so I appreciate the inclusion of a timestamp to skip to - but giving people a reason not to subscribe just feels like he's shooting himself in the foot. It'd be interesting (for him) to put out a few videos without the cringe - and see if there's an uptick in the rate his sub count increases. My guess is it would be noticeable.
Make sure you use the thermal cam to check for hotspots on the board…. Kinda how you needed to use the UV solder mask light to set the Solder Mask you needed to use on its board.
Nice job. I gotta agree with some of the other comments, and I'm sure you already know, but resoldering the components with the iron instead of hot air is best, since you won't be needlessly heating up surrounding components and won't have to worry about your airflow being to high to send the components flying.
Haha, I've stopped using air for small SMD jobs - it's just quicker to tin one pad, then solder one side of the component, and then tin and solder the other side.
I had a good laugh with this one. Those parts flying off in all. I normally only use hot air for removal of components, and it’s a lot easier if you just hand solder the smd components. Great work, Steve. I thoroughly enjoy your content, keep it up man. Cheers! 🍻
Good ol' XC6206 for when your entire requirements for an LDO consists of "sort by cheapest first" Not that they're bad or anything just fun to see a datasheet for a part I've actually used on a few occasions.
Steeve, first of all, I love you. Thanks to you I am destroying everything in my flat pretending I can solder my way out of everything. Still, a question burns my soul. Why aluminium tape ? Isn t the point to isolate component from high heat ? Aluminium being conductive, why not use masking tape, which is a thermal insulator ? Thanks again for everything sir :)
Aluminium is an electrical and thermal conductive material. It’s act as an heat sink, dissipating heat and not insulating from it. Masking tape will burn under heat.
haha, its nice to know that you do blunders with soldering / heat guns, the amount of times i've lost something because it flew across the room. I'm constantly standing on them
Love, love the channel. When heating up the solder for component removal or insertion do you hold the ends where the solder is? Surely, that is dissipating heat? I would be holding the component down by pushing down on said component. Also, you never tin the soldering iron tip before trying to solder? I think the flux in the solder helps heat transfer making a quicker, better joint. Just observations, not criticisms!!!
You need to get a pencil and tips for micro soldering. Once I had mine the only time the hot air station come on is for heat shrink tubing and devices with many legs, even when installing 8 pin devices I use the pencil. Removal requires the hot air though.
Hi, next time using the ally tape try sticking it onto the board but leave an air gap between the part you are trying to protect and the tape itself, that way will conduct less heat to the parts ya wanna save from cremating if that makes sense? And I'm glad I'm not the only one who keeps blowing the bits off with the hot air lol 😅 nice repair and thanks for sharing.
Grate video, you saved another electronic device from the landfill, but I think it's time you acquired a set of hot tweezers it would make your job a little easier.
That's a really interesting thing to know! After some time watching you I decided to get the same camera, now I know what to look for if one day it decide to not work anymore for me too! Thank you for the educative content :)
I half expected the issue to be the power button since you didn't check that at first... congrats on fixing it. PS - I never thought hot air soldering could be so hilarious.
Best first step IMO is to see if there's any hacker spaces near you, and then ask them. They're usually kitted out with everything you'll need in terms of tools and in my experience they're always really friendly and willing to help someone who doesn't know what they're doing. Just make sure you approach it as more of a "I want to learn" rather than "please fix this for me", people in hacker spaces will love to teach and show you how to do things if they think you want to join their hobby/space, but they're probably less willing to fix something if you just turn up asking for free repairs.
It's so funny! I mean I have no idea about that soldering-stuff at all. I know it's difficult and I know you are good at it, but you present it with so much self-irony you just cannot help but laugh! Great job 👍!
I must admit, I use the iron wherever I can for putting components onto the board. The less heat you have to use and the least expose for the components, the better. But, sometimes you gotta push yaself.
I used to make smd prototypes many years ago, the heat process of melting solder/solder paste will damage components if you spend too long blowing over them with a heat gun. Back in my day we would have removed the cap and sot23 with tweezers and an iron, wicked the pads, put a small dot of solder on one pad and then put the new components on with tweezers and not a gun. Hot air guns were for plc’s, qft’s etc and even then we had to place the device by hand within 10 seconds or consider the component cooked.
Rumour has it that you don't need the hot air gun on gale force 10.
But it is for dramatic effects !?
That's true, but you have to keep in mind that not every hot air station is capable of gale force 11.
Lmao
120 was the number of flyaways
couldn't stop laughing, you knew it was going to keep happening
I'm jealous of that capacitor. I'm a pilot and that capacitor had more flight time than me today. I love it!
Got to say, Ive never been happier for you to say, “Get in there!” Fixing your own thing and fighting all the blowing away of components. Congratulations
amen to that on top of that this is actually the second time he fixed one of his own things
his black light for drying stopped working in a earlier video he fixed that as well.
he got his plan, creating his own stupidity for content.. so entertaining.. 🍻
The jean luc picard meme usage cracked me and i almost choked to death.
The royalty costs for the Star Trek gifs are adding up 😂
How about reducing the airflow a bit when components start flying?
Was fun seeing airflow set to warp 9, even if Picard didn't approve.
How about using a soldering iron when you need to tackle just 2 dots?
@@frozen_sun : )
From one Steve to another, it was actually nice to see a repair that wasn't going someone's way, with components doing a vanishing act!
Keep up the good work, love the videos you make, short, sweet and to the point!
Sad to think of all the good electronics that get thrown out every year from an equally small bit faulty. But as with all machinery...when they have issues the repair is often a simple matter but it's the FINDING of the issue that is the real bugger. Well done Steve!
Reminds me of an old IT legend I heard
Big company has a fault in their giant mainframe computer. They call in an IT guy
Guy walks in, looks around for a second, finds a component and puts a big chalk X mark on it
The company then receives a bill from the IT guy. $40,000
"This is outrageous," the company says. "We demand that you itemize this bill."
They receive an itemized bill:
Piece of chalk: $1
Knowing where to draw the X: $39,999
problem with thoe "easy" repairs is, that you have to have the right parts lying around or you'll be waiting for them till they arrive. if you need the device NOW and can't wait days or even weeks, then that sucks. once you have those parts lying around, like Steve, it's always better to fix it yourself, if you have the talent. soldering irons are cheap, not sure about that heat-blower-thingy though
Talent, knowledge, ability (try doing that with a tremor), equipment, etc.
When that cap blew away, the facepalm gif was so perfect I think my neighbours heard me burst out laughing
Five time in a row 😂
Pure gold! 😂
That cap made a journey across japan; references to another british youtuber aside, I have to say that I really enjoy watching your videos, when I watch your videos time fly like a capacitor.
6:02 I feel like taking a Journey across Japan now for some reason.
XD I panicked thinking the video skipped to another video
Never laughed, so much at a repair video😂😂, and you fixed in the end
Bravo
6:02 I became briefly confused and thought Steve was about to take me on a Journey Across Japan.
Difficulties leading up to 10:45... pro-tip: toothpick instead of tweezers. It's made out of wood, so it doesn't conduct, nor wick away heat. Much easier to hold a surface mount component with. Also: hot air for desoldering only on such light components. Just put a little blob of solder onto your soldering iron, hold the component down on the wicked pads with the toothpick and stick it down. Then come back with the flux to tidy it up.
Pro tip - just use a soldering iron for soldering these. There is absolutely no need to use a hot air gun
Ceramic tweezers.
I winced watching the use of hot air, I spent years repairing camcorders and my use of hot air was minimal, no need on discrete components, removing or replacement, C53 had too much solder on, doesn't need big blobs, solder should curve down I also used kapton tape to shield delicate parts not aluminium tape.
I wont lie... I laughed my ass off to the flying capacitors and your video editing skill 😂😂😂 I know the struggle and I know how tiny those components are. Great work on fixing the thermal cam even without the help of a thermal cam ;) :)
I laughed aswell. Every time i was thinking surely he got it this time, come on Steve but then it flew away and i laughed even more.
yep, just woke up my wife cause my fat ass caused an earthquake in bed while laughing
Great repair. I'd hold the air gun a bit more to the vertical and lower the air speed a fair bit.
11:40 “I’m beginning to wish I’d just used the soldering iron.” Lol.
I like the humor of using a hot air gun instead of a good ol soldering iron and desoldering braid.
that capacitor flying off the second time, had me!!
Steve, you need a "Number of days without Picard face-palm" board as well, lol. Also, that selfie was hot.
Out of all the fix it guys I follow, u are the best😊,u could make a video about replacing a standard plug worth watching🙂,this guy deserves subscriptions 👍👍
Never thought that soldering could be pure comedy gold 😍
Might help turning down the whirlwind generator a tad 😆
Watching those tiny components fly off the board to a soundtrack extremely similar to an instrumental version of 'Living In A Box's eponymous debut song was absolute comedy gold. 😁Thank you for your sacrifice and congratulations on another successful fix. 👍👌
In the words of the good Captain... 'Merde!'
Good fix. Always better when it's something yours and expensive!!
😍 definitely felt good to keep this thing alive!
The Picard gif made me laugh, I think it was the timing of the music too. Da duh da da da and the cap would go flying off.
That music you used during the episode got me excited for a fan showdown. But also... it always reminds me of Living in a Box by Living in a Box
I was fairly sure it was the instrumental... has all the right horn lines (so to speak)
This beautiful soldering session! 🤣🤣🤣
For this type of work I always use two Weller WS80 soldering stations with needle tips!
There are also soldering pliers from Weller for SMD R or C, but I don't have one. 😔
Congratulations you are a Miracle Worker like Scotty from Star Trek.
Steve you put in lot of work in de videos I like
I should also compliment you on finding the fault and successfully repairing it.
Good job, mate. 👍
Louis Rossmann actually covered the flying capacitor thing in a video. It's not just the high airflow actually (although I'm pretty sure Steve ought to reduce it).
What I noticed (if I see this right) is that Steve grabs the capacitor (and the voltage regulator by extension) at the very low end which means the metal sides don't make as well contact cause the tweezers are actually somewhat in the way.
Louis recommended trying to grab the cap at a higher point so that when you place it the tweezers won't be in the way and the risk of the cap flying away would be much reduced. I don't know but it made a lot of sense when Louis explained it in his calming voice XD
Haha! Awesome fix. To think that some would chuck it in the bin. :O
😁 thank you! I really didn't want to have to chuck this away!
These raps have been getting better and better these last few vids, they're genuinely becoming my favorite part of your videos. I wanna see where your flow goes next.
It blow me away well done 😎👍🏼
So many time you have seen the components flying away, and still you don't lower the air speed. I work with 10 - 15% airflow speed, and heats faster.. Still great job and a pleasure to watch
Hey mate not sure if you will see this, but because of you i started doing videos on my own repairs etc 👍 really enjoy your content 🔥
How did we get lucky enough to get 2 videos this week? 😁
I've got a few older ones that I never got round to editing! Trying to get a few more out this month! 😬
13:16 *GET IN THERE*
And no blister! Good job mate!
Best soldering ever so realistic. They should make a game for this.
Given the price, I'm less than impressed with that camera - so glad that I bought the Infiray P2 Pro when I did.
@6:03 Getting a 'Living In A Box' flashback. Nice!
Sometimes I think a normal iron tip would be better Steve? But there again it is hard to guage because the magnifier does such a good job of, well, magnifying. Love the channel mate!
Thank you, Steve, for making my Saturday evenings ever so better with your regular upload 💐
You have nice flux, solder and tips, so use them. After wicking the solder off, touch one pad of each component and use this pad to mount your component on the board. Once satisfied with the orientation, solder the other pads
There's no electronics repair shop anymore.. last time I saw it was 7-8 years ago..
love to see you repairing dead electronic bruv
Had to chuckle everytime the capacitor blew away way too much wind lol but well done you got there in the end
As always a great episode and lots of successful humorous scenes with Mr. Picard. We too would run away if we were heated with 400 degree air. Regards.
I like that we'll done , am here trying fix a sound system but might need your advice
Caps are often in 10uf/0.1uf pairs to remove noise from the power line.
Steve! If you're going to be doing more soldering in the same part of the board, why don't you cover newly soldered components - especially the minute ones - with a piece of tape once they're in place.
And why don't you put the components you have removed, that you want to re-use, re-install or investigate, in one of the two lidded compartments on your blue work-board, then they would "ping" away or get blown away by your hot-air gun.
I really enjoy your videos, your's and Vince's are my "go to" channels. Keep up the good work.
I have a request, and I hope it isn't taken in a bad way. The initial teardown used to be one of my favorites, for one reason: it's informative. If someone has a broken item, and need to find out to dismantle it, that section is amazing. With the patreon rap a lot is now cut off or filled with music someone may not want to hear.
SO, here's my suggestion. Either at the end of the video, or even another channel, maybe have just that portion with your voiceover as you find those hidden screws and tabs and such so people can use your videos to help! Or I'm just out of my element, and feel free to ignore me.
He'd increase his watchtime numbers on this channel significantly if he had a separate channel for the masochists that enjoy the excruciating "music" that make the teardown section unwatchable for most adults.
The teardown is one of my favourite bits with repair videos, made almost unwatchable by the uncessary rapping over the top.
@@dazza4983 I skip them every time - so I appreciate the inclusion of a timestamp to skip to - but giving people a reason not to subscribe just feels like he's shooting himself in the foot. It'd be interesting (for him) to put out a few videos without the cringe - and see if there's an uptick in the rate his sub count increases. My guess is it would be noticeable.
I'm a skipper too!
@@guyh3403 There are dozens of us! Dozens, I say!
Make sure you use the thermal cam to check for hotspots on the board….
Kinda how you needed to use the UV solder mask light to set the Solder Mask you needed to use on its board.
Nice job. I gotta agree with some of the other comments, and I'm sure you already know, but resoldering the components with the iron instead of hot air is best, since you won't be needlessly heating up surrounding components and won't have to worry about your airflow being to high to send the components flying.
I stayed for the song at the end. Loved it. 😁
Haha, I've stopped using air for small SMD jobs - it's just quicker to tin one pad, then solder one side of the component, and then tin and solder the other side.
I had a good laugh with this one. Those parts flying off in all. I normally only use hot air for removal of components, and it’s a lot easier if you just hand solder the smd components. Great work, Steve. I thoroughly enjoy your content, keep it up man. Cheers! 🍻
Hotair for removal then iron with fine tip, flux and thin (preferably 60/40 leaded) solder for rework 🙂
good job steve - thanks for a lols with the hot air gun it far too much wind
A lot of help you were, Dave!
Good ol' XC6206 for when your entire requirements for an LDO consists of "sort by cheapest first"
Not that they're bad or anything just fun to see a datasheet for a part I've actually used on a few occasions.
I usually solder 1 end of a cap, then flow it with the hot air mate.
Steeve, first of all, I love you. Thanks to you I am destroying everything in my flat pretending I can solder my way out of everything. Still, a question burns my soul. Why aluminium tape ? Isn t the point to isolate component from high heat ? Aluminium being conductive, why not use masking tape, which is a thermal insulator ? Thanks again for everything sir :)
I would imagine the aluminium would reflect the heat away.
Aluminium is an electrical and thermal conductive material. It’s act as an heat sink, dissipating heat and not insulating from it. Masking tape will burn under heat.
haha, its nice to know that you do blunders with soldering / heat guns, the amount of times i've lost something because it flew across the room. I'm constantly standing on them
It's very rare that a fix vid makes me belly laugh so thanks for that :)
In this episode nasty tiny micro electronic components flying everywhere !
Excelent video
Hi Steve, may be a set of ceramic tweezers may help on situations like this. Thanks for the video!
Love, love the channel. When heating up the solder for component removal or insertion do you hold the ends where the solder is? Surely, that is dissipating heat? I would be holding the component down by pushing down on said component. Also, you never tin the soldering iron tip before trying to solder? I think the flux in the solder helps heat transfer making a quicker, better joint. Just observations, not criticisms!!!
A very entertaining repair! (the wee capacitor and voltage regulator ... they just won't behave!)
Get in contact
I was thinking at one point you were not going to get any of those Components back on 😂but you got there in the end well done 👏 😊
Well done Steve nice fix 😊
Sweetest rap ever. Stez, your people need an album.
MAKE IT SO ❤
You need to get a pencil and tips for micro soldering. Once I had mine the only time the hot air station come on is for heat shrink tubing and devices with many legs, even when installing 8 pin devices I use the pencil. Removal requires the hot air though.
Nicely done, Steve.
Jump ahead button? Nice
Hi, next time using the ally tape try sticking it onto the board but leave an air gap between the part you are trying to protect and the tape itself, that way will conduct less heat to the parts ya wanna save from cremating if that makes sense? And I'm glad I'm not the only one who keeps blowing the bits off with the hot air lol 😅 nice repair and thanks for sharing.
It's too easy to get impatient and crank up the airflow with hot air and everything flies off everywhere xD
Jean Luc Picard its proud of you bro
This is exactly how I work too. Facepalms and all. I literally cried tears of recognition.
Awesome job
Grate video, you saved another electronic device from the landfill, but I think it's time you acquired a set of hot tweezers it would make your job a little easier.
Way to go Steve! Love it.. 😀🇸🇪
That's a really interesting thing to know! After some time watching you I decided to get the same camera, now I know what to look for if one day it decide to not work anymore for me too! Thank you for the educative content :)
Nicely done Stez
Thanks Vince! 😍
@@StezStixFix Pleasure buddy!
I half expected the issue to be the power button since you didn't check that at first... congrats on fixing it. PS - I never thought hot air soldering could be so hilarious.
Amazing Job that! Keep up the Great work! Top video.
Thank you! 😍
Amazingly entertaining! Love watching your videos Steve. Keep up the great work!
I Wish i could to the work you do, i have a pump tire pump that want to fix but no idea.
Any tips how to learn or start repairs?
Best first step IMO is to see if there's any hacker spaces near you, and then ask them.
They're usually kitted out with everything you'll need in terms of tools and in my experience they're always really friendly and willing to help someone who doesn't know what they're doing.
Just make sure you approach it as more of a "I want to learn" rather than "please fix this for me", people in hacker spaces will love to teach and show you how to do things if they think you want to join their hobby/space, but they're probably less willing to fix something if you just turn up asking for free repairs.
Love the abroad in Japan music!
"Clean your blue mat!" It is a bit dirty to be honest otherwise, thanks for the vid. Nice~, as always
Great job !
Hey Steve, would you consider doing a video on how you buy? Like what you look for what you won't touch etc.
Get in contact
That was the best “Get in there!”
I come for the fix and the humour in equal measure!
Nice one dude!! well done
It's so funny! I mean I have no idea about that soldering-stuff at all. I know it's difficult and I know you are good at it, but you present it with so much self-irony you just cannot help but laugh! Great job 👍!
Hi there, great video as always got 3DO that needs fixing thought, might make a great video
I do question the durability of the components when subjected to the heat gun, when a quick dab of the iron would do.
I must admit, I use the iron wherever I can for putting components onto the board. The less heat you have to use and the least expose for the components, the better. But, sometimes you gotta push yaself.
I used to make smd prototypes many years ago, the heat process of melting solder/solder paste will damage components if you spend too long blowing over them with a heat gun.
Back in my day we would have removed the cap and sot23 with tweezers and an iron, wicked the pads, put a small dot of solder on one pad and then put the new components on with tweezers and not a gun.
Hot air guns were for plc’s, qft’s etc and even then we had to place the device by hand within 10 seconds or consider the component cooked.
As always, great video. Thanks!