Thank you! This is very thorough and helpful. While I've caulked woodwork, this will be my first go with a sink. BTW - I dip my finger in a weak solution of dish soap and water to keep caulk from sticking to me while smoothing the bead. It works really well.
3:00 When I'm using a long tube like that, and I'm not near the end of the tube, when I'm finished with a job I'll stick a large 4d nail into the opening then put the tube back into storage. The caulk inside near the tip will still set, but having that nail in there means that the next time I need to caulk, I can pull the nail out and instantly have a central channel available where caulk farther back can get out. And the nail can go back in there for another few rounds.
I've tried this, it helps but only goes so far. Once you cut into the plastic housing the clock is ticking, you might get a few weeks with a good reseal
After a year of COVID-19, we’ve got a bunch of round areas to caulk I can’t thank you enough. We used to bring in a handyman. We don’t want somebody coming into the house now. So we need to do it ourselves. I can’t thank you enough. In the long run, this will save us money.
Thank you so much! I just did my 1st sink caulking job and I followed all your tips. For storing it, I covered the tip with the end of a thin twisty balloon, to keep it airtight, then put on the cap.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. You have to remove ALL of the existing sealant. You can’t leave the sealant in the gap like you did. But most importantly NEVER use acrylic .( Dap) in wet areas despite what they claim. It is very low quality sealant. Use 100% silicone. (GE or DOW) Professional caulkers never use Dap for anything but paint prep.
The sealant was obviously failing, it’s just not a good idea to install new sealant to already failing sealant. In this example The existing sealant was silicone. He replaced it with acrylic latex. Acrylic latex will not bond to silicone.All of the existing sealant has to be removed.It is never a good idea to not remove all of the sealant.
Just followed your accessible guidelines and caulked my newly replaced drop-in sink which had rusted out and was leaking. Don't know that I would be happier with a new and trendy vanity replacement. Have a sense of accomplishment doing this myself. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this guide, just moved into a place and the sink has no caulking, it's all wet and dirty in there, now I gotta fix it and it's my first time caulking!
Excellent. I have to recaulk my kitchen sink and I wasn't sure what to do, but this tutorial is perfect. Even the tip about getting the tube instead of the gun depending on spacing and quantity. It's just something I didn't think about. Think I'll rechaulk the faucets in my bathroom too. Why not? 😁 Thanks again!
I can’t thank you enough! I have the same tight gap behind the faucet. The caulk at the wall side was moldy. I wasn’t going to ask a handyman to come in, because of pandemic I tried, but wish I had seen this first. Now I know that using some of the caulk makes the tube more flexible for tight spaces. Your video also showed me that I pushed the caulk too hard. How did you get your finger in there to smooth it? Also, why smooth it at an angle?
Mister I have some more questions .. how can I write you .. I’m trying to reseal a busted kitchen sink and the counter top around it is eroded .. any suggestions on repairs ? Thanks mister
You made it look easy. Tried the exact same project with the same Dap product in white, and made a mess of it no matter how hard I tried. I ended up with a large 1/2" "boarder" smeared unevenly all the way around. I went over it several times with my finger, but I just couldn't get it right. So I went at it with a rag, frantically scrubbed to get the excess off before it set, but it just looked ugly in stark contrast with the black countertop. So I "whittled" my border down by ever-so-carefully edging along it with a wet rag, and it took hours before it looked even enough. I got it down to a 1/4" border, but I think that’s too wide. It just looks like a cheap motel job, and I'm not happy with it, but I just settled because I was too tired. . Next day I tried again on the other sink, and this time I tried to apply the caulking more sparingly. I even spent time painstakingly masking it to a nice 1/8" boarder with painter's tape, which was a tip I read elsewhere. Went over it with my finger, then immediately tried to pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle, but it didn’t work out. The caulk was completely ragged and uneven, and parts of it were "floating" off the counter. So after all that, I ended up having to run my finger around it again. But then ran into the exact same problem I had on the previous sink! After more hours trying to "edge" it carefully, the end result was even worse than the previous day's effort. I don't understand what went wrong. I must be missing something, or maybe my counter top shows up every detail because it’s black. I’m not sure, but I’m tempted to try scraping the border area off completely with a plastic scraper. It dries to a chalky matte consistency, and just looks like liquid paper against the black.
Oh man, I was already afraid to try this. Your experience sounds like a nightmare. I wonder if you went back and re-did this? If so, please share your experience. I want to do this around my sink. I want to know how long to wait to let it dry?
On a black countertop I think I would use black caulk and use masking tape on the sink side of the joint to keep the sink from getting messed up. Not every store will stock black caulk.
Should only use 100% Silicone Caulk. Remove the sink and clean up all the old caulk. It will fail again. The stuff he used is a mix of Latex and silicone it will fail due to loss of adhesion over time.
So a restaurant i work at has those long drains for the coffee station, would this work am that? Rn the coffee overflows the drain and spill over the side, spilling onto the shelving below.
If the sink is shifting you need to do what he should have done. Remove the sink, scrape the old caulk from the bottom and re-seal with new silicone caulk.
0:52 I managed to catch the laminate surface with my blade but fortunately that spot was tiny and under the lip of the sink, near the edge of the countertop cutout. Be careful on the angle and pressure used. I wasn't using the little tool shown in the video, I had a long (6-inch) handle tool probably from my painting box that takes a standard blade, probably too steep an angle at one point. I also managed to break a piece off the blade later on, a slim strip at the cutting edge (pushing too hard onto the counter bent the blade too far). Very fortunate it was the blade and not the sink! Just gotcha's from another amateur.
Thanks for the excellent video. Very helpful. I think you missed two points in this video, one is to remove old caulk and other one is to ensure that surface is totally dry also before applying the caulk.
Good tips. However you should always wear latex gloves & a mask when working around mold. Some protective layer is better than none. Never rub your eyes, nose, ears or mouth either. After we thoroughly clean up the job site with a cleaner, as mold & it’s spores can be harmful to elderly, sick persons, children, etc. it’s always a good practice to minimize mold exposure. It can get you very ill, to the point of nasal, lung, throat, brain issues. Mold is also hard to treat clinically- so minimizing our exposure is critical. Cheers.
Being immature since this video was easy for inserting numerous puns....great info though and I used the red tube and it lasts a while if you store it properly!!
Sir, I have seen somewhere they used soapy water before using the finger to smooth out sealant to avoid the smears. Sorry, I forgot to add they sprayed the soapy water before smoothing out that sealant with their finger.
why am I 70% sure that your race is East Asian from you speaking I want to say your white but I feel like you're East Asian no big deal thank you for telling me all this useful information but I can hear your race by how you talk
You made a job that I was hesitant to do, sound friendly and do-able! You have an excellent presentation style--good work!
Thank you! This is very thorough and helpful. While I've caulked woodwork, this will be my first go with a sink. BTW - I dip my finger in a weak solution of dish soap and water to keep caulk from sticking to me while smoothing the bead. It works really well.
3:00 When I'm using a long tube like that, and I'm not near the end of the tube, when I'm finished with a job I'll stick a large 4d nail into the opening then put the tube back into storage. The caulk inside near the tip will still set, but having that nail in there means that the next time I need to caulk, I can pull the nail out and instantly have a central channel available where caulk farther back can get out. And the nail can go back in there for another few rounds.
what's it like going through life with a brain like yours?
I've tried this, it helps but only goes so far. Once you cut into the plastic housing the clock is ticking, you might get a few weeks with a good reseal
@@Unavalivle I'm an engineer. Fixing problems is what I do.
@@salsamancer I've had more than one or two restarts out of the same tube, over months. The nails I used were like 4 inches long.
I’ve got a tube opened over a year ago. After cutting the tip back a 1/4” or so, I’m getting fresh product out. 😮
After a year of COVID-19, we’ve got a bunch of round areas to caulk I can’t thank you enough.
We used to bring in a handyman. We don’t want somebody coming into the house now. So we need to do it ourselves. I can’t thank you enough.
In the long run, this will save us money.
Thank you so much!
I just did my 1st sink caulking job and I followed all your tips.
For storing it, I covered the tip with the end of a thin twisty balloon, to keep it airtight, then put on the cap.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. You have to remove ALL of the existing sealant. You can’t leave the sealant in the gap like you did. But most importantly NEVER use acrylic .( Dap) in wet areas despite what they claim. It is very low quality sealant. Use 100% silicone. (GE or DOW) Professional caulkers never use Dap for anything but paint prep.
I went to my local hardware store and couldn’t find the products you’ve mentioned. I have 100% silicone DAP - wish me luck.
@@baileyp7413 🙏
Why can't you leave sealant in the gap??
The sealant was obviously failing, it’s just not a good idea to install new sealant to already failing sealant. In this example The existing sealant was silicone. He replaced it with acrylic latex. Acrylic latex will not bond to silicone.All of the existing sealant has to be removed.It is never a good idea to not remove all of the sealant.
Just followed your accessible guidelines and caulked my newly replaced drop-in sink which had rusted out and was leaking. Don't know that I would be happier with a new and trendy vanity replacement. Have a sense of accomplishment doing this myself. Thank you.
This dude is the Bob Ross of calk.
You have explained it so well and gives all tips which make the job much easier,thank you
Thank you so much for this guide, just moved into a place and the sink has no caulking, it's all wet and dirty in there, now I gotta fix it and it's my first time caulking!
Wow, I feel like I’ve received a Masters’ degree in caulking after having watched this! Thanks for the great video!
Excellent. I have to recaulk my kitchen sink and I wasn't sure what to do, but this tutorial is perfect. Even the tip about getting the tube instead of the gun depending on spacing and quantity. It's just something I didn't think about. Think I'll rechaulk the faucets in my bathroom too. Why not? 😁 Thanks again!
Thank you! I got the same sink and wasn't sure how to approach that tight spot. You make it all seem doable! :)
Great video! Simple to follow. Gets the job done 👌
I just did our two bathrooms following your advice.
They look great.
Thank you for sharing.
You wife must be happy to have a handy man. Good video.
Nice job! About to start mine on a sink fairly similar to yours. Thank you.
i need this man to take care of my caulk, the way he works his way around the old caulk and just does a bang up job finishing off the caulk.
What do you do, if their is a large gap between the sink and countertop?
Just what I needed. Thank you.
I usually put it on a little thick and use a caulking tool..Wipe off the excess with a wet sponge and move one..
Nice work by the way
Great instruction, but what do you do around the drain? My sink seems to be caulked around the drain as well. Same application?
Thank you for explaing this so well. :)
I can’t thank you enough!
I have the same tight gap behind the faucet. The caulk at the wall side was moldy. I wasn’t going to ask a handyman to come in, because of pandemic
I tried, but wish I had seen this first. Now I know that using some of the caulk makes the tube more flexible for tight spaces. Your video also showed me that I pushed the caulk too hard.
How did you get your finger in there to smooth it? Also, why smooth it at an angle?
Mister I have some more questions .. how can I write you .. I’m trying to reseal a busted kitchen sink and the counter top around it is eroded .. any suggestions on repairs ? Thanks mister
Superb, looking forward to doing my sink.
My landlord is bone idle when it comes to repairs so I decided re-caulk it myself with your expertise
Great practice for when you buy your own house!
I always cut the tube on the lines and it’s way too big! Thanks for clarifying. Great video.
This is so helpful! Thank you, internet dad!
Good job showing us how to work with old caulk
Thank you you gave me the courage to approach strangers for money
great work 👏
Good video! I have to do my kitchen sink today.
I really appreciate your help
Good tip about not pressing too hard….well done
Curious, about how long did it take you from start to finish? Thanks!
im too immature for this video
Scott Bradley 💀😂
Me too
“Just kinda go lightly and switch fingers”......
Same. He said “caulk”…hehe
I didn't understand what u meant until he said,"residual caulk!"
stiff caulk and the tip is saeled😅😅😅
Great video... Thanks!
Good information, thank you.
If the sink is completely loose, will caulk glue it back to how it is supposed to be?
I would say no, its more of a sealer than a glue for something structural like that
How to this when the sink is sealed underneath the countertop instead of above it
Very helpful. Thank you.
You made it look easy. Tried the exact same project with the same Dap product in white, and made a mess of it no matter how hard I tried. I ended up with a large 1/2" "boarder" smeared unevenly all the way around. I went over it several times with my finger, but I just couldn't get it right. So I went at it with a rag, frantically scrubbed to get the excess off before it set, but it just looked ugly in stark contrast with the black countertop. So I "whittled" my border down by ever-so-carefully edging along it with a wet rag, and it took hours before it looked even enough. I got it down to a 1/4" border, but I think that’s too wide. It just looks like a cheap motel job, and I'm not happy with it, but I just settled because I was too tired.
.
Next day I tried again on the other sink, and this time I tried to apply the caulking more sparingly. I even spent time painstakingly masking it to a nice 1/8" boarder with painter's tape, which was a tip I read elsewhere. Went over it with my finger, then immediately tried to pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle, but it didn’t work out. The caulk was completely ragged and uneven, and parts of it were "floating" off the counter. So after all that, I ended up having to run my finger around it again. But then ran into the exact same problem I had on the previous sink! After more hours trying to "edge" it carefully, the end result was even worse than the previous day's effort. I don't understand what went wrong.
I must be missing something, or maybe my counter top shows up every detail because it’s black. I’m not sure, but I’m tempted to try scraping the border area off completely with a plastic scraper. It dries to a chalky matte consistency, and just looks like liquid paper against the black.
Yikes... and now 24 hours later, I see that some sections of it have not dried at all, and other sections are shrinking. What a nightmare.
Oh man, I was already afraid to try this. Your experience sounds like a nightmare. I wonder if you went back and re-did this? If so, please share your experience. I want to do this around my sink. I want to know how long to wait to let it dry?
On a black countertop I think I would use black caulk and use masking tape on the sink side of the joint to keep the sink from getting messed up. Not every store will stock black caulk.
Had the same issue...i have a thick mess around my bathroom sink and I don't know how to fix it
Very good video. Thanks so much.
Came out very good. People are used to putting a lot of silicone/ caulk and when people clean around that area they strip the sealer right off.
Should only use 100% Silicone Caulk. Remove the sink and clean up all the old caulk. It will fail again. The stuff he used is a mix of Latex and silicone it will fail due to loss of adhesion over time.
So a restaurant i work at has those long drains for the coffee station, would this work am that? Rn the coffee overflows the drain and spill over the side, spilling onto the shelving below.
Suggestion remove the faucet handles first for easier access to backside of sink next to wall
Thank you
Thanks! So useful!
Is it normal for the sink to shift a few cm when no connection?
If the sink is shifting you need to do what he should have done. Remove the sink, scrape the old caulk from the bottom and re-seal with new silicone caulk.
Thanks, that was useful
0:52 I managed to catch the laminate surface with my blade but fortunately that spot was tiny and under the lip of the sink, near the edge of the countertop cutout. Be careful on the angle and pressure used. I wasn't using the little tool shown in the video, I had a long (6-inch) handle tool probably from my painting box that takes a standard blade, probably too steep an angle at one point. I also managed to break a piece off the blade later on, a slim strip at the cutting edge (pushing too hard onto the counter bent the blade too far). Very fortunate it was the blade and not the sink! Just gotcha's from another amateur.
A cuticle remover works even better than the scraping blade!
Do you just put the cuticle remover on and then scrape it off?
OMG, it's actually same sink and faucet as the on in my bathroom.
Thanks for the excellent video. Very helpful. I think you missed two points in this video, one is to remove old caulk and other one is to ensure that surface is totally dry also before applying the caulk.
@2:07?
Good tips. However you should always wear latex gloves & a mask when working around mold. Some protective layer is better than none. Never rub your eyes, nose, ears or mouth either. After we thoroughly clean up the job site with a cleaner, as mold & it’s spores can be harmful to elderly, sick persons, children, etc. it’s always a good practice to minimize mold exposure. It can get you very ill, to the point of nasal, lung, throat, brain issues. Mold is also hard to treat clinically- so minimizing our exposure is critical. Cheers.
Use a damp tile sponge. Works great
Great video! Thanks
Being immature since this video was easy for inserting numerous puns....great info though and I used the red tube and it lasts a while if you store it properly!!
great video, thanks
Thank you!
Thanks for video
Sir, I have seen somewhere they used soapy water before using the finger to smooth out sealant to avoid the smears. Sorry, I forgot to add they sprayed the soapy water before smoothing out that sealant with their finger.
master of caulks
thank you so much....I am off to the hardware store!
I wish I watched this before I did the sink, not saying it came out bad but definitely not as clean as this
good work
Great instructions to get your caulk off
I lost it when he said “For this job, you’re not going to use a ton of caulk”. Seriously though, very helpful
Curtis M 💀😂
There are tools, why using fingers?
This is a totally different video in Boston
a larger caulk makes it easier to get it in from the back
nice caulk!
It sounds so weird hearing him say caulk like that constantly lol
Once you get the caulk off
He got the shit calk off so nicely.
Many thanks to my UA-cam dad🖤
Thanks for the video. I really didn't need you to tell me I could use my finger of choice.
is this Ryan Reynolds?
Might wanna go with "caulking" instead of "caulk".
Nice caulk gun anyway... lol
“Cauck“
You should really use a tool to line it up
And while taping circular objects is a pain, it would pay off in the long run to not have all the excess caulk around the cabinet and ceramic
Would you recommend a video I can watch to do this?!
why am I 70% sure that your race is East Asian from you speaking I want to say your white but I feel like you're East Asian no big deal thank you for telling me all this useful information but I can hear your race by how you talk
Feel like I could play a drinking game to this.
cut nozzele with thumbtack
Lick your finger and it'll allow you to glide your finger easier and have a nice shine
Just say caulking
Too many ad-breaks 😐
I can't believe you can just touch the moldy sealant with your fingers. Gross!
Lol
OMG way too much talking,very little hands on instructions
Anyone else think this video was just an excuse for the guy to say "CALK" a bunch of times.
Its a great video, very helpful actually. Getting ready to CALK myself actually. lol
Especially to an English person, it sounds like he's totally saying "COCK" every time!
Just push your caulk into the backside.....
purple countertop😂
Bahahahahaha what a mess
hand holding a razor blade. interesting