One more question sir does both sides adjust on the top center I mean the two cylinder adjust on top center please let me know because I adjusted mine an can get it
The video should show you better than I can type it. They have to be adjust TDC of INTAKE stroke. The rotate the other cylinder so it's TDC of INTAKE stoke.
Great video. Videos on the noises Onans make would be good. You mention piston slap versus valve noise versus other noises, if you get an engine to show the noises. I use a de-carbonizer additive called RxP that keeps the comb chamber clean.
Thanks, unfortunately engine sounds just do not come through the videos very well, great Idea wish they dud. Some additives do help ut do not put off doing regular decarboning as you will likely surprised as it will be needed, just might get away a bit longer, but not worth the risk. Great to use as added peace of mind. Thanks for watching and the video!
Hi, so if they need it we definitely recommend doing it, if you are confident lapping them then it's not a bad idea. But even with hours and age on many of these we only see a handful of them that actually "need" to be lapped that don't seal after cleaning and adjusted. Thanks for watching, great question and point.
If all else fails read the instructions...was looking at the repair manual and Onan recommends to NOT lap them since the head and the valve have different angles. Lapping would result in the same angle and a need for future lapping to keep them sealed. Thanks for all the info!
@renalshomlmes338 yes manual says not to lap them as maintenance practice. But if they are leaking slightly we will lap them to get them to seal better as at this point in most of the engines age and hours by now the angles and seating is far from what it was new. And lapping ones that have small issues is much more time effective and cost effective than replacing valves or full valve jobs by far, especially if not major damage or wear. We have had good results on many with simple lapping for minor corrections. Thanks for the follow up and watching!
Keep up the good work! Just found your channel and it’s helped me with my Onan. I am thinking mine is on the way out as she’s smoking at start up and heavy load, and burning oil, about 3 oz per 2 hours, but I love to see how to work on it should I decide to rebuild and not repower.
Thanks! Fix the Onan you will not be happy with any other repower unless a Bigger Onan lol. I would decarbon it, adjust the valves for sure. Make sure its timed correctly too. I would recommend running a good 20-50 racing oil and maybe add a little Lucas oil treat. And run a NGK B4L Spark plug and high test fuel. Let us know if you see any difference. Also a compression reading when cold could be helpful to after you adjust the valves. Best of luck and talk soon!
I need your expertise I bought a wheel horse 520 h it has a p220g the engine has hood compression and cranks over nice it has 967 hours it doesn’t have spark what is a good route to go to test diagnose and replace the faulty part thanks
If you are sure your plugs and plug wires are good and you coil is geting 12 full volts for sure? Then test the coil with ohm meter the plug side I think should be around 20k and the small terminals between 3k and 4k off the top of my head. If it passes replace the spark module and pick up behind the flywheel.
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast I checked my battery it is from 2013 I just put a booster pac on it sprayed some starting fluid in it and it fired ran and died my fuel pump isn’t picking up fuel if I can’t find an oem onan one would one of those Briggs vacuum operated ones work ? I wouldn’t see why it wouldn’t ? Thanks for your help
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast I am well aware my fuel pump is working so that’s not an issue I got the tractor a new battery got it to run but it runs poorly spits gas out of the carb back fires pipe and runs bad any ideas thanks
Is it common for out of spec valves to cause a no start condition? Fuel pump works and my onan genset has spark on both cylinders. It cranks strong but never actually starts up. I'm gonna pressure test the cylinders next weekend and see what kind of compression it has, any idea what kind of PSI to look for? I assume around 90, but can't find it in the service manual.
Yes it is possible of they are way out of adjustment or if there is a valve issue. Compression will depend on model. Are the plugs actually sparking? Or are you just getting spark to the plugs? A server intake leak can also stop it from starting easy but uncommon.
Also is the carb working and putting out gas? Just because pump is pumping does not mean engine is getting gas and correct amount. Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner down carb to see if it fires?
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast The plugs are sparking, I took them out and sparked them to the heads. They could use replacement, but aren't in terrible shape. No damage and just a few very small white deposits, no black carbon. I suspect the carb may not be pumping much, if any fuel. I cranked it for a total of 120 seconds over 5 attempts and it only consumed about 1/2 inch of fuel from a 3/8" fuel hose, which to me seems far too little, as that's only about 55ml of gas. Since the hose was open for almost an hour of testing, it's possible I lost some fuel to evaporation too. I tried spraying some starter fluid in but it didn't work. I suspect this could be due to the elbow in the air intake and the choke. I'm working on a marine MCE 6500W generator in my boat and it's hard to get direct access to the air intake.
New subscriber with a question. I'm at the point you are here. Would you recommend to go ahead and relap the valves at this point? I have a JD 318 with the Onan p218g and want to keep it running as long as I can. Thanks.
Hi are the valves not sealing? If your head and intake and exhaust are off you can check. You can turn of lights at night and stick flash light down intake and exhaust ports at top dead center of compression stroke, no light should pass. Or you can do the same but fill with water or oil. Very little to none should leak right away.
It will all depend on what your local shop charges for labor and how familiar they are with Onans. Many place today wont even adjust valves or points etc.... Pretty sad honestly. It takes some time to do it right.
every one told me them motors are hard to work on... to me them motors are easy.... good video
Agree they are the easiest for sure! Thanks for watching and the comment!!
One more question sir does both sides adjust on the top center I mean the two cylinder adjust on top center please let me know because I adjusted mine an can get it
The video should show you better than I can type it. They have to be adjust TDC of INTAKE stroke. The rotate the other cylinder so it's TDC of INTAKE stoke.
Very well explained. Very nice. Thanks for making this.
Thanks glad it help and thanks for watching and the comment.
Can you give me in in take and the exhaust on the fielder gage please is that in mm
No they are not MM. What engine are you looking for info on?
Ranger 8 Lincoln electric welder Onan engine
@@WASIMEDOO I assume a Onan P Series? .006 intake and .013 exhaust US measurements as stated in the video. Do it cold. Thanks.
Thanks
Great video. Videos on the noises Onans make would be good. You mention piston slap versus valve noise versus other noises, if you get an engine to show the noises. I use a de-carbonizer additive called RxP that keeps the comb chamber clean.
Thanks, unfortunately engine sounds just do not come through the videos very well, great Idea wish they dud. Some additives do help ut do not put off doing regular decarboning as you will likely surprised as it will be needed, just might get away a bit longer, but not worth the risk. Great to use as added peace of mind. Thanks for watching and the video!
Do you recommend lapping the valves? These babies are getting up to 50 years old now.
Hi, so if they need it we definitely recommend doing it, if you are confident lapping them then it's not a bad idea. But even with hours and age on many of these we only see a handful of them that actually "need" to be lapped that don't seal after cleaning and adjusted. Thanks for watching, great question and point.
If all else fails read the instructions...was looking at the repair manual and Onan recommends to NOT lap them since the head and the valve have different angles. Lapping would result in the same angle and a need for future lapping to keep them sealed. Thanks for all the info!
@renalshomlmes338 yes manual says not to lap them as maintenance practice. But if they are leaking slightly we will lap them to get them to seal better as at this point in most of the engines age and hours by now the angles and seating is far from what it was new. And lapping ones that have small issues is much more time effective and cost effective than replacing valves or full valve jobs by far, especially if not major damage or wear. We have had good results on many with simple lapping for minor corrections. Thanks for the follow up and watching!
Keep up the good work! Just found your channel and it’s helped me with my Onan. I am thinking mine is on the way out as she’s smoking at start up and heavy load, and burning oil, about 3 oz per 2 hours, but I love to see how to work on it should I decide to rebuild and not repower.
Thanks! Fix the Onan you will not be happy with any other repower unless a Bigger Onan lol. I would decarbon it, adjust the valves for sure. Make sure its timed correctly too. I would recommend running a good 20-50 racing oil and maybe add a little Lucas oil treat. And run a NGK B4L Spark plug and high test fuel. Let us know if you see any difference. Also a compression reading when cold could be helpful to after you adjust the valves. Best of luck and talk soon!
I need your expertise I bought a wheel horse 520 h it has a p220g the engine has hood compression and cranks over nice it has 967 hours it doesn’t have spark what is a good route to go to test diagnose and replace the faulty part thanks
If you are sure your plugs and plug wires are good and you coil is geting 12 full volts for sure? Then test the coil with ohm meter the plug side I think should be around 20k and the small terminals between 3k and 4k off the top of my head. If it passes replace the spark module and pick up behind the flywheel.
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast thanks I will check this i appreciate it
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast I checked my battery it is from 2013 I just put a booster pac on it sprayed some starting fluid in it and it fired ran and died my fuel pump isn’t picking up fuel if I can’t find an oem onan one would one of those Briggs vacuum operated ones work ? I wouldn’t see why it wouldn’t ? Thanks for your help
@@hunter7476 yes should be fine. What ever you do do NOT put electric fuel pump on it!
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast I am well aware my fuel pump is working so that’s not an issue I got the tractor a new battery got it to run but it runs poorly spits gas out of the carb back fires pipe and runs bad any ideas thanks
Is it common for out of spec valves to cause a no start condition? Fuel pump works and my onan genset has spark on both cylinders. It cranks strong but never actually starts up. I'm gonna pressure test the cylinders next weekend and see what kind of compression it has, any idea what kind of PSI to look for? I assume around 90, but can't find it in the service manual.
Yes it is possible of they are way out of adjustment or if there is a valve issue. Compression will depend on model. Are the plugs actually sparking? Or are you just getting spark to the plugs? A server intake leak can also stop it from starting easy but uncommon.
Also is the carb working and putting out gas? Just because pump is pumping does not mean engine is getting gas and correct amount. Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner down carb to see if it fires?
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast The plugs are sparking, I took them out and sparked them to the heads. They could use replacement, but aren't in terrible shape. No damage and just a few very small white deposits, no black carbon.
I suspect the carb may not be pumping much, if any fuel. I cranked it for a total of 120 seconds over 5 attempts and it only consumed about 1/2 inch of fuel from a 3/8" fuel hose, which to me seems far too little, as that's only about 55ml of gas. Since the hose was open for almost an hour of testing, it's possible I lost some fuel to evaporation too.
I tried spraying some starter fluid in but it didn't work. I suspect this could be due to the elbow in the air intake and the choke. I'm working on a marine MCE 6500W generator in my boat and it's hard to get direct access to the air intake.
I would check compression then at this point
@@caseingersolltractorsnortheast Sounds good, that's my plan for this weekend, cheers!
New subscriber with a question. I'm at the point you are here. Would you recommend to go ahead and relap the valves at this point? I have a JD 318 with the Onan p218g and want to keep it running as long as I can.
Thanks.
Hi are the valves not sealing? If your head and intake and exhaust are off you can check. You can turn of lights at night and stick flash light down intake and exhaust ports at top dead center of compression stroke, no light should pass. Or you can do the same but fill with water or oil. Very little to none should leak right away.
If they leak then yes lap. You want to test AFTER you decarbon and adjust valves.
I'll check it out. Thanks for the tip with the light, never thought of that before.
Thank you
You are welcome
Great vid, thank you!
You are welcome thanks for watching and taking the time to comment and kind words.
What would one expect to pay to have this done?
It will all depend on what your local shop charges for labor and how familiar they are with Onans. Many place today wont even adjust valves or points etc.... Pretty sad honestly. It takes some time to do it right.