Something I forgot to add- always replace the fuel hose when you get a new machine. Get good quality SAE rated fuel hose. Make sure you don’t buy fuel hose that has “not for underhood applications” printed on it- that stuff is not rated for heat and could melt and cause a fire!
My dad gave me two Sears tractors, he used to restore them and these two I wanted to do myself. I replaced the battery on the first one and it fired up but died after about 20 seconds. Checked everything and it seems to be a fuel issue. Changed out the lines, fuel filter and black splitter with no luck. Can use carb start spray so it’s not the spark plugs. I’m pretty sure it’s the fuel pump. I’m going to try this out, awesome video.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU. I have been trying to solve that problem for 20 years! I did not know about the second hole above the first one. And for another comment; There are two barbs on the fuel pump plate. I drilled out the top barb and I installed a fuel pressure gage to make sure the fuel supply was there and that the pump was working properly. If the fuel tank was blocked or I had a collapsed hose, the fuel gage would tell me if the fuel pressure dropped. This is the first time the Onan has run right in years. Thanks again.
Thank you so much...your videos are very helpful. I have 2 carbs that I've been trying to get the hang tag wire through the small passage as you suggested. Spent hours and couldn't push it through. Finally took the wire to my grinder and carefully and lightly ground about a quarter inch long narrow pointed end on the wire. Got the wire pushed through both carbs in about 5 minutes. Just make sure you don't grind so small that the wire becomes weak.
i blame enviro zombie ethanol gas for all these problems .i switched to premium gas and no more problems when any of my engines /atvs/lawn mowers snow blowers ect sit with water in the aluminum carbs .the other hack i use is when putting equiptment away for any amount of time i add a little 2 stroke oil and it keeps my carbs working well. good video cranky !!
A worthwhile topic about the " newer " variations of California / EPA complaint carburetors that get set at the factory have a silver or copper colored dome cap over the adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor..that is very easily tapped on the edge to turn them sideways to remove them to access the adjustment screw..instead of buying a whole new carburetor as the dealers and others claim is needed..a small turn of the adjustment screw smooths out rough idle and surging problems the newer engine have..I'm sure the EPA or California will frown upon it greatly but it sure beats buying a new carburetor or getting stuck without a working engine or generator..
Thank you. My P220 has low hours and shouldn't be shutting down so soon when mowing. After a 20 minute run time, if I through the Hydro to quick the engine starts to sputter. I did find the bowl looked low on fuel, the fuel pump works good. i'm going out an pull top of Carb (pull coil wire) and crank engine to see if its getting fuel. I cleaned fuel tank last week, checked coil an condenser, all good. Carb has plastic floats. Being 78 yrs young, I don't see well. This engine has less then 100 hrs since valve lash was checked and has ran fine.
Do you have a link to that decarbon gasket kit. I can not find one with the correct intake gaskets, all the ones are paper/fiber and are cut way to close/thin on one side where the bolt hole is and fail very fast. There are some other decent options for intake only gaskets but would like to find full kits with the graphite intake gasket you showed thanks.
the coil got hot, haha, that was funny. thanks for great tips. I got CCKB on my Simplicity 9020...about to dig into it, new to me machine. I'll use your trick to restore my fuel pump....then decarb the engine, lap the valves, go over everything. Parts are impossible to find for these, need to be clever to find work arounds
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
I have that 18HP engine on a 1973 Bolens 1256. It’s a little bull. I restomodded a giant heavy Sears snow thrower by using a 90 degree gearbox off a Bolens mower deck. It runs faster than it was designed to run so the snow goes 300 yards. That might be a slight exaggeration. I use the machine strictly for snow. I even have an Ariens snow cab and the orientation of the engine throws the heat into the cab and I can blow snow with only a sweatshirt in 5 degree weather. I had to extend the exhaust up so it doesn’t blow inside the cab and I put the little rain flappers on the pipes. The hood is chopped up to fit everything. It’s a great little machine. You don’t happen to have any good lift hydraulic cylinders for a 1256 or 1556 Bolens. Do you?? Also, are the 2 range transaxles off a Sears Roper GT-18 6 speed any good? Trying to decide if I should scrap the transaxle or make something from it. The frame broke on the tractor so it’s getting scrapped for sure.
I'd like to replace the carburetor on my P220G. In looking at the situation, it appears that I would need to remove the bolts that hold the exhaust flanges to the head, in order to access the intake mounting bolts. I don't want to twist off those exhaust bolts, however. Is there any other way to remove the carburetor ?
Would you sell me brass float for my Onan P 218G for my 318 John Deer. She is from the early 80s. She had a new engine in 1994? Or send me a link. Your supplier does not carry the one I need. Thank you! Great info for my 318!
excellent . Thanks. I have a bunch of Onan s rebuilt so many carbs. You gave me good tips. I put outboard primer bulb on line off tank to prime motor fast . May help people with long crank times to start.
Wow. That's a lot of info and so helpful. Do you have a source for the main needle assembly? My brass one has basically no slot for screwdriver left and no O ring. Not included in kit I bought.
The engine is flooding after shut off and hard to start. runs good after running. I think the float is sticking or valve. Can I repair without taking the whole intake and carb off?
Yes, take the air cleaner off, and take the top of the carb off. The float is probably a foam one that swelled from crummy gas, get a brass one from Mjay58 on ebay
Do you have a link for Gary's Place? Can't find him on ebay at all ... I have an 87 JD 318 with a B43G Onan that's running very rich. Hardly ran at all and I bought & installed a new carb from ebay, which straightened out the running issue but now has to crank a long time to start and runs very rich when it does start. Any ideas? Also, if you'd like to make cleaning the tiny air hole in the carb throat, retire the parts tag and get a guitar "E" string. (thinnest one) one string will give you a lifetime supply of cleaning wire since they don't bend like a parts tag wire.
Thank you I am rebuidling a dd12. It has the brass float -- what is the proper float setting? The instructions in the kit say 1/8", but that for the fiber float.
1/8 is a good start- I bend one pontoon down a little more than the other one so they float a little sooner. These were supposed to have a helper spring, but if you bend one pontoon lower on the float it makes a world of difference
Hello have a ss18 with a BGMS onan in it. Been having a lot of carb trouble. What is does it constantly revs up and down it basically it is surging all the time. I took the top of the carb off not the bottom and replaced with brass float and tweak them to about 1/8 inch but still surges. Know I did replace the idle needle but not the main one because its locked up tight in this and the slot for the srewdriver is getting strip out a little bit. Know when I replaced all that last winter man she ran great and awesome but this year it started surging again. Thank Any help is Appreciated.
Bobby Detecting the idle circuit is clogged a you have to take the carb off, turn it upside down, and there is a tiny hole above the throttle plate you need to run a wire through. I cover it in one of these onan videos
@@crankysports Okay then what is the stuff you use to reseal the manifold on the side and the 2 places on the engine can I use copper sealant permatex is that what you recommended in your video?
I dont know if you can answer this but how tight is too tight for the deck belt when engaged? When the disengaged lever contacts the switch it seems to put alot of pressure on the belt. Whatever touches the switch is floppy dont know why so if I can get my big head in there maybe that's it.
@@crankysports I own one onan junker on a miller welding machine I haven't touched that scrap for 20 plus years during the time I use it the pile of shit spent more time at the dealership than in the field and it was engine troubles Got myself a Lincoln welder with a Kohler never ever went back to the dealership in 12 years I use it I bet onan ain't worth melting down will probably make bad scrap metal
thanks for the video is there a way to find a carb like that I have a Onan BF-MS/2666c Engine the carb that was on it was tacking apart and things was missing so I had a Onan B43g carb and put it on the BF-MS but it seems to be getting more air then fuel would like to put the oem carn back on it. and I have videos on this engine and more info or parts be nice for it kind of need a starter for it soon lol but keep it up and thanks
Dude you're like a Masshole genius! (I'm from Newton). I just bought a JD318 and put it to the test today by trying to cut some long weeds in my back yard. It cut for a couple of passes and then died like it ran out of gas. Giving it a little choke stopped it from stalling so would you say the manifold is the most likely candidate. Thanks for the great video! I love it when the person gets to the point :)
After months of tinkering I FINALLY have my John Deere running almost perfect. Almost. Every time I tried something new it helped a little more but needed more work. So far I have replaced the fuel pump, carburetor, fuel lines from the tank all the way to the carb including the pulse line that drives the fuel pump. One thing that I was surprised by is the "submersible" section of fuel hose that actually sits in the tank with a small strainer attached to the end. After pulling the old one out it basically disintegrated and so I got a new 1' section that cost an amazing $33!! The fuel lines that were on there had started to close up a bit from the ethanol but more importantly I found a second fuel filter hiding in the engine bay before the fuel pump and I'm sure that was causing some starvation problems. Anyway thanks so much for all the great tips.
THE REASON THOSE GREEN GASKETS CRUMBLE IS THEY GET OLD ☝️ BUT THEY'RE HEAT RESISTANT WHICH MEANS ☝️ THEY'RE MADE OF COMPOSITE ASBESTOS SO THEY DON'T BURN UP OR BURN OUT IF THEY'RE FRESH ABD YOU DON'T (OVER) TIGHTEN THEM THEY WILL WORK FINE TAKE IT FROM A 70 YEAR OLD MECHANIC 😉👍👍
hi,i have a onan 8kva geny twin cyl (B48M), you said about brass fuel floats i have the other kind and i am trying to get the brass one. i have been looking for MJ58 at ebay but can not find him ,are you able to help me as i live in australia i can not seen to find one and i am have fuel trouble your channel help me heaps hope to hear from you chrees graham
I am installing a p216g carb on a B43g which had the older carb set up with fuel pump. the new carb from a p216g has a fuel inlet line 90 degrees off from what I need - Can I change the metal fuel line intel ? and Where can I get a straight line fuel intel.?
Thanks so much for making this video. It helped me get my Dad's Case 448 running great! I never would have spotted that little vent hole in the fuel pump, it was hidden under decades of gunk. My son loves that tractor, was close to giving up on it. Thanks again!
I have tried for an hour to get the idle bypass open with a tag wire you suggested and the way you have shown on the video, Any other suggestions on how to clear out the idle by pass hole? it a DD 4 date 79 N
Most likely no there are 2 passages in there- you have to work it till you get it. Sometimes they’re corroded shut. Maybe see if you can find a ultrasonic cleaner, or maybe soak it in carb cleaner dip bucket or soak in water mixed with vinegar overnight.
Thanks for the video. My Case 446 acted up today, all of a sudden, after working great for 6 months. This is a new to me tractor. I’m more use to Kohlers, never had an Onan be for.
I call it the high speed screw or main mixture screw. The one with an O ring on it? www.ebay.com/itm/331224383436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2J47inSqTGG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=bGP-reUBS-y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@crankysports ty sir, wish they would send this with a carb repair kit, Your videos are very helpful got my tractor running would not do anything two weeks ago
Man, I wish I had you here in my garage to help me get my 20 hp Onan on my 420 john Deere running right again. It all began by loudly backfiring when i shut it off. I worked though all the electrical parts( plugs/wires/coil/condenser/points/plugs) replacement, etc. It ran fair, but acted sluggish and was running rough, so I began doing the fuel side of things. Replaced the carbuerator/fuel pump/filter/lines, etc. Things got even worse. Fuel spraying from the carb throttle body and backfiring and running crappy. Watching your video, it occurred to me to pull the intake manifold, run all the checks and gaskets for leaks, which may be reason for the backfires. I need all the good fortune you can wish for me, but watching your video gave me a renewed vision to keep after it. So Thanks, your video was great!
My 420 kind of run into the problem like yours, it’s running fine but if there is something that I have to shut it off, good luck to start it back up. If I try to start, it’ll back fires like crazy, you’ll see the fire coming out of the muffler or carburetor. I don’t know what to do here. Please let me know if you figure it out.
Thanks for the video as it helped me to fix my carb as well . My carb had the accelerator pump which was very hard and dry . Soaked with oil , cleaned out the tiny holes and it runs like new again .
I have an Onan P224G. Some places seem to say the carb kit is the same as the P216/18/20G? If so, could I use this kit or use a carb from one of these models? Are they all jetted the same? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for the video.
Check out the manual at Www.searstractormanuals.com - if you flip it upside down, it’s like 1/8” off the top of the carb. Sometimes I bend the pontoons opposite each other so one hangs a little lower, it makes it close kind of progressively.
I watched this video and was pumped to try all the items you listed as possible causes of my 318 needing some choke to run. My question is when you're taking the intake off do you usually take off the exhaust system too. I did manage to get it off by removing one header pipe and wiggled it out but I'm guessing most people remove the hood bracket -> remove the PTO -> remove the entire exhaust -> take the intake off. What's your approach. BTW great vid!
The Sears you don’t have to take the exhaust off to get the intake off. I think the John Deere’s have exhaust that comes together closer to the center of the motor and may need to be taken off to get the intake off, I don’t work on JD much
I did the procedure to seal up the intake manifold because you could literally blow into the edge it was leaking so bad. Unfortunately that did not completely cure the problem and it dies at full throttle and under load which seems to be worse going up hill. I think it's starving for fuel and I remember you mentioning a brass float. Do you have a vendor that you like to get this type of float. Thanks and great videos!
Love your detailed video, thank you! I am looking for an Onan carburetor rebuild kit NHC for a 38320 25 horse Onan made in Japan by Nikki I think it’s probably the original carburetor having problems with having to run with choke pulled out.
I think that is the onan Nikki carb- the carb has a round air horn correct? Not like the square carb in my video? You can buy a whole replacement carb (Chinese though) on Amazon for about $40
@@crankysports 6100-0415 that’s the number stamped on the side of the carburetor sorry I had the first four digits wrong the first time I sent this. I can’t find a carburetor replacement anyplace.
Thanks for the video. I performed your recommendations on my 18hp Onan. Right now i can only start it in idle but it’s idling great. However when I throttle up it spits gas out of the carb. I’ve been over the main jet a number of times and I’m confident it’s clean. Compression and spark are good. Any ideas?
Thanks, I'm having trouble with my Onan P218 on my Lincoln Ranger 9 welder... Watching your video, one question answered.. been running it with choke on... I'll need to tear it apart and clean.... My main problem just started, it's like im getting too much fuel? Flooding out quickly... Plugs soaked! Not 100% what is going on, but just going to tear it apart (carburetor) and start cleaning
Hey man i have a welder with the onan engine and i changed the carburetor cause it wasn't working properly and now its sending gasoline to the oil and it fills up with gas do you might know whats causing that
Float set too high, or the gas tank cap does not vent, and when the tank gets hot, it builds pressure and forces the gas through the carb into the crankcase . Had that happen on a Sears too
I have one of these carbs and the idle jet needs to be turned in all the way to idle smooth. Is that normal? If I set it 1 turn out it runs super rich and stumbles.
I just bought a John Deere 420 with Onan engine on it. When it’s hot and if I turn it off, I can’t start it up again, sometimes when I try to start it, it back fires and would not start until it cools down. Can you tell me why and show me how to fix it? Thanks
Not sure what that issue is, sorry. Maybe valves need adjustment- if they’re open too much due to worn lifters, they may not be closing all the way when it’s warm, or maybe a valve seat is loose
I have a 20 hp Onan on a woodmizer bandsaw mill. It started surging at idle, after i put new drive belts on. Any suggestions on where to start? Ive screwed around with all the idle linkages and obvious screws around the carb.
Usually it has to do with the idle circuit being clogged, if it is a DD carb like in my video, follow the steps to clean it. If it is the “round” Nikki carb, sometimes running it up to full throttle then pulling he choke out till it almost stalls, then letting it dev up to full throttle again- doing that a few times sometimes solves it
I have a John Deere with PG 218 Onan. It has run great for 40 years but this year after running it for about an hour the engine RPM goes up several thousand and stays there. It sounds like the pistons are going to come out the sides of the mowerDoesn’t surge up and down. Have to back throttle off to get it to slow down. I’ve never seen this before on any engine. Any ideas? Thanks.
Hello, love the video. Thank you. I just bought a Case 446 with an Onan engine. I replaced the gas line, new gas filter, and rebuilt the carburetor. I'm sure I did it correctly. But when I go to start it, it turns over, but does not want to start. I tried starting fluid...starts and runs. But when I go to start it the next day, same issue. I noticed very little gas in the filter. I also noticed that if I put the throttle on high, and try to start it, I see no gas going into the carburetor. Not sure if that is normal or not. Any suggestions what to look for? Would appreciate your feedback to troubleshoot this. Thanks! Don
sounds like your pump is not working correctly, or maybe the fuel inlet in the tank is blocked or something. Do you have hose clamps on all the connections?
@@crankysportsI do have hose clamps on both sides of the filter, and where it goes into the fuel pump. I don't think I have a hose clamp on the gas tank end..just the orginal clip. I should of mentioned that I also replaced the fuel pump. So tonight, I tried to start it. Did not start, but once I covered the choke with my hand, sealing it off as best I could, it started. I ran it for ok, ran it for 10 minutes or so then shut it off. I'll try it in the morning. While looking over the carb after I shut it off, I noticed that the area where the screw is that I think you call it the main circuit, appeared to be leaking gas. I don't know if there is an o-ring or not. I will take it out tomorrow and check. When I put it back, how far in do I know to screw it in? Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
@@crankysports Yes, it's a brass float. So I took the screw out of the main circuit. The o-ring was very dry and actually brittle. I replaced it with a new one and will install it tonight. I will verify tonight, but when I shut the engine off last night, there was a good amount of fuel showing in the gas filter. So when I look at it tonight, if there is not much fuel in it, could the gas be draining back from the carb to the gas tank? Hence why it starts hard?
Great video! Just yesterday I had to work on my latest addition (1977 16\6) with a 16 hp Onan. I found the float spring sticking out of the side of the carb...
Cranky MotorSports my onan 18hp bg-ms run fine on idle but it it’s sputtered on high rpm, sounds like not enough gasoline. Should I rebuild the carburetor?
Jeremy Nguyen wouldn’t hurt, at least check the float to see if it’s a foam one or brass, make sure it’s set right, and adjust your high speed screw out a little
@@crankysports it did, I didn't know there was a breather for the fuel pump as well. Probably why I have been having fuel issues. I am going to check valve adjustment use my little camera down the spark plugs holes to see if there is any carbon build up I need to take care of next.
I've got an Onan 20.5 HP on a welder and over the years it has gotten to where it takes a very long time to get it started. It seems that all the gas is going out of the lines and back into the fuel tank after it sits for a few minutes. The longer it sits the longer it takes to get fuel back to the carb.
@@crankysports Ok I'm also tearing it down now because it locked up. I figured the fly wheel fan would have left handed threads. It didn't and I actually tightened the nut farther than it needed to go trying to get it off. Now even with a puller I'm finding it impossible to get the flywheel off. I don't want to destroy my puller. Maybe some heat would be in order?
if u cant get the wire threw the top of the ideal air circet can u blow throw the out let of the hole and clean it that way or the only way to clean it is with the wire
Two comments. First, the intake seam that you spoke of in regard to leaking. I have cleaned it very thoroughly and used rtv. It works but in my experience it did not hold up very long. I then used the old garden variety permatex like I used when I was 16 (61 now). The permatex is amazing and stays viable for a very long time. I think it’s been close to 10 years and still perfect. Got to get everything good and clean but it’s the same for RTV. Second thing is that it beats up the high speed screw rubber donut washer if it isn’t lubricated before screwing in. So I use 3in1 rubber seal conditioner. It’s great. I use it anytime I see rubber. If I was 16 again I’d probably spray my condoms with it!! It’s an aerosol spray can.
Hi, Names is Jim and I have Snapper 1855 with a 18 HP Onan B48M-GA018-3421. Tag on Carb says 13937C and DD14A. Can't find a Carb kit that says its for the DD14A. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim
Any idea why mine carb is pushing a ton of fuel out a one of the holes on top of the carb? I assume maybe the main fuel drew needs adjustment. The person I bout my case 446 installed an electric fuel pump. And at time I have to actually shut of the pump
Float set too high, and ditch the electric pump, they’re not made for electric pumps. Rebuilt kits for the fuel pumps are like $20 on eBay. No need for electric pumps.
Gravity feed only works if the fuel tank is higher than the carburetor. So if you gas tank is higher than your carb, yes it will work. In most garden tractors that isn’t feasible. Also, if you choose to do this, and your needle seat fails or the float gets stuck open, you will flood your motor. The pump acts as a kind of fuel shutoff when the motor is off. Fix your pump if you can, it makes a lot of stuff better
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Something I forgot to add- always replace the fuel hose when you get a new machine. Get good quality SAE rated fuel hose.
Make sure you don’t buy fuel hose that has “not for underhood applications” printed on it- that stuff is not rated for heat and could melt and cause a fire!
china hose ng
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How do you properly adjust the carb on this engine after cleaning?
Just bought a sears ss16 with fuel starvation issues, this has to be the best video on UA-cam for Onans.
Blue10AEMia thanks for the kind words!
My dad gave me two Sears tractors, he used to restore them and these two I wanted to do myself. I replaced the battery on the first one and it fired up but died after about 20 seconds. Checked everything and it seems to be a fuel issue. Changed out the lines, fuel filter and black splitter with no luck. Can use carb start spray so it’s not the spark plugs. I’m pretty sure it’s the fuel pump. I’m going to try this out, awesome video.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU. I have been trying to solve that problem for 20 years! I did not know about the second hole above the first one. And for another comment; There are two barbs on the fuel pump plate. I drilled out the top barb and I installed a fuel pressure gage to make sure the fuel supply was there and that the pump was working properly. If the fuel tank was blocked or I had a collapsed hose, the fuel gage would tell me if the fuel pressure dropped. This is the first time the Onan has run right in years. Thanks again.
Glad to help!
Thank you so much...your videos are very helpful. I have 2 carbs that I've been trying to get the hang tag wire through the small passage as you suggested. Spent hours and couldn't push it through. Finally took the wire to my grinder and carefully and lightly ground about a quarter inch long narrow pointed end on the wire. Got the wire pushed through both carbs in about 5 minutes. Just make sure you don't grind so small that the wire becomes weak.
Excellent! Good camera work and superb narration. Thanks!
Tolba Szy thanks!
Thanks for your video. My 1979 Case garden tractor with 18 HP Onan engine is idling much better after I followed your instructions!
Glad it helped
Absolute wealth of knowledge, i bought a MF1855 with more broken parts than working, thanks you for sharing!
Thanks for watching, glad I could help
Most helpful Onan guy I've found yet!!
Thanks!
i blame enviro zombie ethanol gas for all these problems .i switched to premium gas and no more problems when any of my engines /atvs/lawn mowers snow blowers ect sit with water in the aluminum carbs .the other hack i use is when putting equiptment away for any amount of time i add a little 2 stroke oil and it keeps my carbs working well. good video cranky !!
👍
This is exactly the carb video I was looking for. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
A worthwhile topic about the " newer " variations of California / EPA complaint carburetors that get set at the factory have a silver or copper colored dome cap over the adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor..that is very easily tapped on the edge to turn them sideways to remove them to access the adjustment screw..instead of buying a whole new carburetor as the dealers and others claim is needed..a small turn of the adjustment screw smooths out rough idle and surging problems the newer engine have..I'm sure the EPA or California will frown upon it greatly but it sure beats buying a new carburetor or getting stuck without a working engine or generator..
I don’t have any of those, nor do I plan to, so I can’t cover that.
Thank you. My P220 has low hours and shouldn't be shutting down so soon when mowing. After a 20 minute run time, if I through the Hydro to quick the engine starts to sputter. I did find the bowl looked low on fuel, the fuel pump works good. i'm going out an pull top of Carb (pull coil wire) and crank engine to see if its getting fuel. I cleaned fuel tank last week, checked coil an condenser, all good. Carb has plastic floats. Being 78 yrs young, I don't see well. This engine has less then 100 hrs since valve lash was checked and has ran fine.
Do you have a link to that decarbon gasket kit. I can not find one with the correct intake gaskets, all the ones are paper/fiber and are cut way to close/thin on one side where the bolt hole is and fail very fast. There are some other decent options for intake only gaskets but would like to find full kits with the graphite intake gasket you showed thanks.
www.ebay.com/itm/254286298851?hash=item3b34a4fee3:g:MBQAAOSwI8hdcFTi
the coil got hot, haha, that was funny. thanks for great tips. I got CCKB on my Simplicity 9020...about to dig into it, new to me machine. I'll use your trick to restore my fuel pump....then decarb the engine, lap the valves, go over everything. Parts are impossible to find for these, need to be clever to find work arounds
David C theyre not impossible to find... www.onanparts.com or google “Boomers onan parts” or look on eBay.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
Thanks for sharing your experience
I have that 18HP engine on a 1973 Bolens 1256. It’s a little bull. I restomodded a giant heavy Sears snow thrower by using a 90 degree gearbox off a Bolens mower deck. It runs faster than it was designed to run so the snow goes 300 yards. That might be a slight exaggeration. I use the machine strictly for snow. I even have an Ariens snow cab and the orientation of the engine throws the heat into the cab and I can blow snow with only a sweatshirt in 5 degree weather. I had to extend the exhaust up so it doesn’t blow inside the cab and I put the little rain flappers on the pipes. The hood is chopped up to fit everything. It’s a great little machine. You don’t happen to have any good lift hydraulic cylinders for a 1256 or 1556 Bolens. Do you?? Also, are the 2 range transaxles off a Sears Roper GT-18 6 speed any good? Trying to decide if I should scrap the transaxle or make something from it. The frame broke on the tractor so it’s getting scrapped for sure.
I don’t have any Bolens stuff
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching
my Onan running on one cylinder, I replaced: new spark plugs, OEM plugs wires, new coil, new condenser. what else should I checking in to? thanks
Ground, carburetor, air intake leaks, intake gaskets, head gaskets
I'd like to replace the carburetor on my P220G. In looking at the situation, it appears that I would need to remove the bolts that hold the exhaust flanges to the head, in order to access the intake mounting bolts. I don't want to twist off those exhaust bolts, however. Is there any other way to remove the carburetor ?
You have to take the intake off usually to get the carb off
Thanks. Guess I'll leave the old carb on for now.@@crankysports
I have a gob of hang tags but they have strings instead of wires. I am so screwed….
Bread bag ties from a supermarket work too, I think some hardware stores have some mechanics wire that works too
link for the decarbon gasket kit ? Thank you
Just look on ebay- find one with graphite intake manifold gaskets.
www.ebay.com/itm/254286298851?hash=item3b34a4fee3:g:MBQAAOSwI8hdcFTi
this is one of many
I searched Ebay for Ghope and Garysplace. Not results. Does anyone know if they are still around?
I bought stuff from him just a couple months ago.
Cranky motorsports, do I have the names spelled correctly? Thank you.
Would you sell me brass float for my Onan P 218G for my 318 John Deer. She is from the early 80s. She had a new engine in 1994? Or send me a link. Your supplier does not carry the one I need. Thank you! Great info for my 318!
I don’t have parts for the P series. Just search ebay
excellent . Thanks.
I have a bunch of Onan s rebuilt so many carbs.
You gave me good tips.
I put outboard primer bulb on line off tank to prime motor fast .
May help people with long crank times to start.
Wow. That's a lot of info and so helpful. Do you have a source for the main needle assembly? My brass one has basically no slot for screwdriver left and no O ring. Not included in kit I bought.
Brenda Davidson I have seen them on eBay from time to time, or try onanparts.com maybe
@@crankysports OK I did see a brass one for about $25 but was hoping for a better deal. Thanks
The engine is flooding after shut off and hard to start. runs good after running. I think the float is sticking or valve. Can I repair without taking the whole intake and carb off?
Yes, take the air cleaner off, and take the top of the carb off. The float is probably a foam one that swelled from crummy gas, get a brass one from Mjay58 on ebay
what do you use for the o-ring on the main/high speed adjustment needle? working on mine now. thanks for the info
Holley carb idle circuit o-rings. They fit perfectly
Thank you. Great video.
Glad to help
Outstanding teacher!
Thanks!
Do you have a link for Gary's Place? Can't find him on ebay at all ... I have an 87 JD 318 with a B43G Onan that's running very rich. Hardly ran at all and I bought & installed a new carb from ebay, which straightened out the running issue but now has to crank a long time to start and runs very rich when it does start. Any ideas? Also, if you'd like to make cleaning the tiny air hole in the carb throat, retire the parts tag and get a guitar "E" string. (thinnest one) one string will give you a lifetime supply of cleaning wire since they don't bend like a parts tag wire.
Great idea with the guitar string! Stiffer too!
I don’t like Gary’s parts from eBay... I use other people’s. Gary’s place is ghope on ebay
great video thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
This video will help a lot👍
👍
How many turns on the screws to initially start the motor?
I do 1 3/4 on both the idle and main
Thank you I am rebuidling a dd12. It has the brass float -- what is the proper float setting? The instructions in the kit say 1/8", but that for the fiber float.
1/8 is a good start- I bend one pontoon down a little more than the other one so they float a little sooner. These were supposed to have a helper spring, but if you bend one pontoon lower on the float it makes a world of difference
Hello have a ss18 with a BGMS onan in it. Been having a lot of carb trouble. What is does it constantly revs up and down it basically it is surging all the time. I took the top of the carb off not the bottom and replaced with brass float and tweak them to about 1/8 inch but still surges. Know I did replace the idle needle but not the main one because its locked up tight in this and the slot for the srewdriver is getting strip out a little bit. Know when I replaced all that last winter man she ran great and awesome but this year it started surging again. Thank Any help is Appreciated.
Bobby Detecting the idle circuit is clogged a you have to take the carb off, turn it upside down, and there is a tiny hole above the throttle plate you need to run a wire through. I cover it in one of these onan videos
@@crankysports Okay thanks I put it together adjusti g the pontoons and runs well but we I shut it of gas sprays out of carb.
@@crankysports Okay then what is the stuff you use to reseal the manifold on the side and the 2 places on the engine can I use copper sealant permatex is that what you recommended in your video?
I dont know if you can answer this but how tight is too tight for the deck belt when engaged? When the disengaged lever contacts the switch it seems to put alot of pressure on the belt. Whatever touches the switch is floppy dont know why so if I can get my big head in there maybe that's it.
It should be right when engaged, and loose enough to no grab when dis-engaged
Good info,thanks
No problem!
and a FYI I have a coil on the BF-MS 1/2 the coil is dead when it get hot but runs good when its cold
👍
Much thanks!!! Gracias!!
👍
Onan engines are the biggest pile of shit ever invented
I’m sorry you feel that way. Guys like you are the reason I buy these tractors with onans for $100 and I always get them running
@@crankysports I own one onan junker on a miller welding machine I haven't touched that scrap for 20 plus years during the time I use it the pile of shit spent more time at the dealership than in the field and it was engine troubles
Got myself a Lincoln welder with a Kohler never ever went back to the dealership in 12 years I use it
I bet onan ain't worth melting down will probably make bad scrap metal
thanks for the video is there a way to find a carb like that I have a Onan BF-MS/2666c Engine the carb that was on it was tacking apart and things was missing so I had a Onan B43g carb and put it on the BF-MS but it seems to be getting more air then fuel would like to put the oem carn back on it. and I have videos on this engine and more info or parts be nice for it kind of need a starter for it soon lol but keep it up and thanks
eBay maybe? They don’t make them anymore
Dude you're like a Masshole genius! (I'm from Newton). I just bought a JD318 and put it to the test today by trying to cut some long weeds in my back yard. It cut for a couple of passes and then died like it ran out of gas. Giving it a little choke stopped it from stalling so would you say the manifold is the most likely candidate. Thanks for the great video! I love it when the person gets to the point :)
Could be the manifold, but if you take it off, clean the carb while it’s off, put a new fuel filter in it too, and new gaskets
This video was perfect. Everything a new to onan owner needs to know. Straightforward, clear, perfect. Thanks for taking the time.
Glad it was helpful!
After months of tinkering I FINALLY have my John Deere running almost perfect. Almost. Every time I tried something new it helped a little more but needed more work. So far I have replaced the fuel pump, carburetor, fuel lines from the tank all the way to the carb including the pulse line that drives the fuel pump. One thing that I was surprised by is the "submersible" section of fuel hose that actually sits in the tank with a small strainer attached to the end. After pulling the old one out it basically disintegrated and so I got a new 1' section that cost an amazing $33!! The fuel lines that were on there had started to close up a bit from the ethanol but more importantly I found a second fuel filter hiding in the engine bay before the fuel pump and I'm sure that was causing some starvation problems. Anyway thanks so much for all the great tips.
THE REASON THOSE GREEN GASKETS CRUMBLE IS THEY GET OLD ☝️ BUT THEY'RE HEAT RESISTANT WHICH MEANS ☝️ THEY'RE MADE OF COMPOSITE ASBESTOS SO THEY DON'T BURN UP OR BURN OUT
IF THEY'RE FRESH ABD YOU DON'T
(OVER) TIGHTEN THEM THEY WILL WORK FINE
TAKE IT FROM A 70 YEAR OLD MECHANIC 😉👍👍
The ones I’ve bought were all purchased from a modern supplier, and were “new”- they suck.
hi,i have a onan 8kva geny twin cyl (B48M), you said about brass fuel floats i have the other kind and i am trying to get the brass one.
i have been looking for MJ58 at ebay but can not find him ,are you able to help me as i live in australia i can not seen to find one and i am have fuel trouble your channel help me heaps hope to hear from you chrees graham
He may have changed his user name- just search onan brass float on eBay and find the one that looks like yours.
I am installing a p216g carb on a B43g which had the older carb set up with fuel pump. the new carb from a p216g has a fuel inlet line 90 degrees off from what I need - Can I change the metal fuel line intel ? and Where can I get a straight line fuel intel.?
I’m not sure- I haven’t worked in the P216G at all
Thanks so much for making this video. It helped me get my Dad's Case 448 running great! I never would have spotted that little vent hole in the fuel pump, it was hidden under decades of gunk. My son loves that tractor, was close to giving up on it. Thanks again!
5,000 -.013 tag wires around 8$ no shop should be without them.........
Good to know!
I have tried for an hour to get the idle bypass open with a tag wire you suggested and the way you have shown on the video, Any other suggestions on how to clear out the idle by pass hole? it a DD 4 date 79 N
I used carb cleaner with a straw spray tube and put it into the top opening for the idle tube and spray came through in volume. Is it good now?
Most likely no there are 2 passages in there- you have to work it till you get it. Sometimes they’re corroded shut. Maybe see if you can find a ultrasonic cleaner, or maybe soak it in carb cleaner dip bucket or soak in water mixed with vinegar overnight.
i have a p216 onan on a wheel horse and its surging what should i try other than running seafoam mixed with gas for a while to see if it clears up
Surging at idle or mid throttle/high throttle?
How long is dipstick on miller welder with Onan motor
No idea
Thanks for the video. My Case 446 acted up today, all of a sudden, after working great for 6 months. This is a new to me tractor. I’m more use to Kohlers, never had an Onan be for.
The one you say will make it leak gas etc what is that screw called I can’t find it
I call it the high speed screw or main mixture screw. The one with an O ring on it? www.ebay.com/itm/331224383436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2J47inSqTGG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=bGP-reUBS-y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@crankysports ty sir, wish they would send this with a carb repair kit, Your videos are very helpful got my tractor running would not do anything two weeks ago
Man, I wish I had you here in my garage to help me get my 20 hp Onan on my 420 john Deere running right again. It all began by loudly backfiring when i shut it off. I worked though all the electrical parts( plugs/wires/coil/condenser/points/plugs) replacement, etc. It ran fair, but acted sluggish and was running rough, so I began doing the fuel side of things. Replaced the carbuerator/fuel pump/filter/lines, etc. Things got even worse. Fuel spraying from the carb throttle body and backfiring and running crappy. Watching your video, it occurred to me to pull the intake manifold, run all the checks and gaskets for leaks, which may be reason for the backfires. I need all the good fortune you can wish for me, but watching your video gave me a renewed vision to keep after it. So Thanks, your video was great!
My 420 kind of run into the problem like yours, it’s running fine but if there is something that I have to shut it off, good luck to start it back up. If I try to start, it’ll back fires like crazy, you’ll see the fire coming out of the muffler or carburetor. I don’t know what to do here. Please let me know if you figure it out.
The 420 has a P220? They’re a bit different/ I have one of those that’s giving me a little heartache too
Thanks for a great video!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video as it helped me to fix my carb as well . My carb had the accelerator pump which was very hard and dry . Soaked with oil , cleaned out the tiny holes and it runs like new again .
Great video man. This is going to help me get my dad’s mower working again.
I have an Onan P224G. Some places seem to say the carb kit is the same as the P216/18/20G? If so, could I use this kit or use a carb from one of these models? Are they all jetted the same? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for the video.
The P series have Nikki carbs they’re totally different
Float adjustment please
Check out the manual at Www.searstractormanuals.com - if you flip it upside down, it’s like 1/8” off the top of the carb. Sometimes I bend the pontoons opposite each other so one hangs a little lower, it makes it close kind of progressively.
I watched this video and was pumped to try all the items you listed as possible causes of my 318 needing some choke to run. My question is when you're taking the intake off do you usually take off the exhaust system too. I did manage to get it off by removing one header pipe and wiggled it out but I'm guessing most people remove the hood bracket -> remove the PTO -> remove the entire exhaust -> take the intake off. What's your approach. BTW great vid!
The Sears you don’t have to take the exhaust off to get the intake off. I think the John Deere’s have exhaust that comes together closer to the center of the motor and may need to be taken off to get the intake off, I don’t work on JD much
I did the procedure to seal up the intake manifold because you could literally blow into the edge it was leaking so bad. Unfortunately that did not completely cure the problem and it dies at full throttle and under load which seems to be worse going up hill. I think it's starving for fuel and I remember you mentioning a brass float. Do you have a vendor that you like to get this type of float. Thanks and great videos!
I buy mine from a seller named Mjay58 on ebay
Love your detailed video, thank you! I am looking for an Onan carburetor rebuild kit NHC for a 38320 25 horse Onan made in Japan by Nikki I think it’s probably the original carburetor having problems with having to run with choke pulled out.
Did you try eBay?
@@crankysports Yes, but I didn’t see anything there. 146-0415 is stamped on the carburetor.
I think that is the onan Nikki carb- the carb has a round air horn correct? Not like the square carb in my video? You can buy a whole replacement carb (Chinese though) on Amazon for about $40
@@crankysports 6100-0415
that’s the number stamped on the side of the carburetor sorry I had the first four digits wrong the first time I sent this. I can’t find a carburetor replacement anyplace.
this is a motor on a 1982 skid loader. Definitely the Nikki carburetor made in Japan.6100-0415
did onan make boatmoter
Not that I know of
Thanks for the video. I performed your recommendations on my 18hp Onan. Right now i can only start it in idle but it’s idling great. However when I throttle up it spits gas out of the carb. I’ve been over the main jet a number of times and I’m confident it’s clean. Compression and spark are good. Any ideas?
Flat is set too high or sticking. If it has a foam float, get a brass one. If it has a brass one, lower it a little bit
Thanks for the video I have been looking for some one with your Knowledge this will help greatly on my restoration of my 8163t
👍
This video helped me to finally solve my Onan 16hp running problems.
Thank you.
Glad I could help! That's exactly why I posted these videos
Great information thanks very helpful!
Thanks, I'm having trouble with my Onan P218 on my Lincoln Ranger 9 welder... Watching your video, one question answered.. been running it with choke on... I'll need to tear it apart and clean.... My main problem just started, it's like im getting too much fuel? Flooding out quickly... Plugs soaked! Not 100% what is going on, but just going to tear it apart (carburetor) and start cleaning
Float is probably stuck if it’s flooding, if it has a foam or plastic float swap it for a brass one
Hey man i have a welder with the onan engine and i changed the carburetor cause it wasn't working properly and now its sending gasoline to the oil and it fills up with gas do you might know whats causing that
Float set too high, or the gas tank cap does not vent, and when the tank gets hot, it builds pressure and forces the gas through the carb into the crankcase . Had that happen on a Sears too
I have one of these carbs and the idle jet needs to be turned in all the way to idle smooth. Is that normal? If I set it 1 turn out it runs super rich and stumbles.
The taper on the needle could be wrong. Some replacement ones were made wrong
Glad I found your site. Your straight to the point. No music and to the point. Good info. I'll be watching from here on.
Thanks! I need to post more :)
Really helpful, clear and concise. Thanks.
nice video.
Thanks
@@crankysports any idea what could cause a onan to act like there is no compression?
Where do you buy that special tool that you use to clean the idol air Circuit or is that only sold to an official Onan Technician ? 🤪
🤣🤣🤣
I just bought a John Deere 420 with Onan engine on it. When it’s hot and if I turn it off, I can’t start it up again, sometimes when I try to start it, it back fires and would not start until it cools down. Can you tell me why and show me how to fix it? Thanks
Not sure what that issue is, sorry. Maybe valves need adjustment- if they’re open too much due to worn lifters, they may not be closing all the way when it’s warm, or maybe a valve seat is loose
@@crankysports thanks
Great video , new subscriber
I have a 20 hp Onan on a woodmizer bandsaw mill. It started surging at idle, after i put new drive belts on. Any suggestions on where to start? Ive screwed around with all the idle linkages and obvious screws around the carb.
Usually it has to do with the idle circuit being clogged, if it is a DD carb like in my video, follow the steps to clean it. If it is the “round” Nikki carb, sometimes running it up to full throttle then pulling he choke out till it almost stalls, then letting it dev up to full throttle again- doing that a few times sometimes solves it
@@crankysports thank you.
Great suggestions and instructions. Your easy to listen too. I will be back.
Thanks!
Really excellent!! Thank you for taking the time! I have subscribed.
Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!
I have a John Deere with PG 218 Onan. It has run great for 40 years but this year after running it for about an hour the engine RPM goes up several thousand and stays there. It sounds like the pistons are going to come out the sides of the mowerDoesn’t surge up and down. Have to back throttle off to get it to slow down. I’ve never seen this before on any engine. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Sounds like a Governor issue to me
@@crankysports Thanks.
Flyball spacer problem. Check out mmrbeef on UA-cam. He has a 4 part series on it
How many turns out on the initial carb setting on my onan 818T.
I start with 1 3/4
Hello, love the video. Thank you. I just bought a Case 446 with an Onan engine. I replaced the gas line, new gas filter, and rebuilt the carburetor. I'm sure I did it correctly. But when I go to start it, it turns over, but does not want to start. I tried starting fluid...starts and runs. But when I go to start it the next day, same issue. I noticed very little gas in the filter. I also noticed that if I put the throttle on high, and try to start it, I see no gas going into the carburetor. Not sure if that is normal or not. Any suggestions what to look for? Would appreciate your feedback to troubleshoot this. Thanks! Don
sounds like your pump is not working correctly, or maybe the fuel inlet in the tank is blocked or something. Do you have hose clamps on all the connections?
@@crankysportsI do have hose clamps on both sides of the filter, and where it goes into the fuel pump. I don't think I have a hose clamp on the gas tank end..just the orginal clip. I should of mentioned that I also replaced the fuel pump. So tonight, I tried to start it. Did not start, but once I covered the choke with my hand, sealing it off as best I could, it started. I ran it for ok, ran it for 10 minutes or so then shut it off. I'll try it in the morning. While looking over the carb after I shut it off, I noticed that the area where the screw is that I think you call it the main circuit, appeared to be leaking gas. I don't know if there is an o-ring or not. I will take it out tomorrow and check. When I put it back, how far in do I know to screw it in? Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
@@donaldbreton411 Is the float set correct? Also, does it have a brass float or a fiber/foam float?
@@crankysports Yes, it's a brass float. So I took the screw out of the main circuit. The o-ring was very dry and actually brittle. I replaced it with a new one and will install it tonight. I will verify tonight, but when I shut the engine off last night, there was a good amount of fuel showing in the gas filter. So when I look at it tonight, if there is not much fuel in it, could the gas be draining back from the carb to the gas tank? Hence why it starts hard?
@@donaldbreton2758 if the gas drains back, yes that’s why it starts hard. Could be your pump is leaking or cracked
Thank you for your time and effort. This is a very informative video.
👍
Is there an alternative to the ignition module on the p series?
I do not know
Great video! Just yesterday I had to work on my latest addition (1977 16\6) with a 16 hp Onan. I found the float spring sticking out of the side of the carb...
gardeningpreacher thanks! Hopefully there is something in the video that helped!
Cranky MotorSports my onan 18hp bg-ms run fine on idle but it it’s sputtered on high rpm, sounds like not enough gasoline. Should I rebuild the carburetor?
Jeremy Nguyen wouldn’t hurt, at least check the float to see if it’s a foam one or brass, make sure it’s set right, and adjust your high speed screw out a little
Cranky MotorSports thanks for the tips, I’ll try that this w/d. Right now all the sudden it lost spark???🤔
My Onan had a bad line from the engine to fuel pump
Yep that’s common too
Thank you so much. Your video helped me to properly rebuild the carburetor on my 1979 Case 446 with Onan B43
Jonathan B no problem! I don’t go into great detail, but I hope my videos help!
@@crankysports it did, I didn't know there was a breather for the fuel pump as well. Probably why I have been having fuel issues. I am going to check valve adjustment use my little camera down the spark plugs holes to see if there is any carbon build up I need to take care of next.
What are the best settings for the carburetor. Thanks
I start with 1 1/2- 1 3/4 off seat on both screws and adjust from there, every motor likes it a little different
if the idle air circuit is clogged will it cause surging?
Yes, at idle
I've got an Onan 20.5 HP on a welder and over the years it has gotten to where it takes a very long time to get it started.
It seems that all the gas is going out of the lines and back into the fuel tank after it sits for a few minutes. The longer it sits the longer it takes to get fuel back to the carb.
Could be split fuel lines leaking air, or the lines may be dry leaking air at the connections
Also could be the diaphragm in the pump is getting dry and brittle
@@crankysports Ok I'm also tearing it down now because it locked up. I figured the fly wheel fan would have left handed threads. It didn't and I actually tightened the nut farther than it needed to go trying to get it off. Now even with a puller I'm finding it impossible to get the flywheel off.
I don't want to destroy my puller. Maybe some heat would be in order?
I put an outboard motor primer bulb on my Miller with Onan I prime fuel full starts up instantly now.
Thanks for this video, the tag wire tip was just what I needed. The carb works great now.👍👍
Excellent
yor the perfect example of who not to listen to
Sorry I didn’t live up to YOR expectations
Great instructional video. Thanks.
LBPA18 B thanks! Hope it helps
if u cant get the wire threw the top of the ideal air circet can u blow throw the out let of the hole and clean it that way or the only way to clean it is with the wire
joesph ma I’ve only had luck with wire
Two comments. First, the intake seam that you spoke of in regard to leaking. I have cleaned it very thoroughly and used rtv. It works but in my experience it did not hold up very long. I then used the old garden variety permatex like I used when I was 16 (61 now). The permatex is amazing and stays viable for a very long time. I think it’s been close to 10 years and still perfect. Got to get everything good and clean but it’s the same for RTV. Second thing is that it beats up the high speed screw rubber donut washer if it isn’t lubricated before screwing in. So I use 3in1 rubber seal conditioner. It’s great. I use it anytime I see rubber. If I was 16 again I’d probably spray my condoms with it!! It’s an aerosol spray can.
The copper RTV I use has lasted many years on every one I’ve worked on
Hi, Names is Jim and I have Snapper 1855 with a 18 HP Onan B48M-GA018-3421. Tag on Carb says 13937C and DD14A. Can't find a Carb kit that says its for the DD14A. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Jim
J Jenkins if it’s a DD carb the same kit will
Most likely work
For DD11, 13, 14, 15 carbs
@@crankysports
Thanks, and Thanks you for the great Video's. God Bless You and Yours
Any idea why mine carb is pushing a ton of fuel out a one of the holes on top of the carb? I assume maybe the main fuel drew needs adjustment. The person I bout my case 446 installed an electric fuel pump. And at time I have to actually shut of the pump
Float set too high, and ditch the electric pump, they’re not made for electric pumps. Rebuilt kits for the fuel pumps are like $20 on eBay. No need for electric pumps.
@@crankysports thanks for the advice, I will adjust the float and make the fuel pump go away lol.
Can a fuel pump on a onan ccka engime be deleted and a gravity feed tank in place?
Gravity feed only works if the fuel tank is higher than the carburetor. So if you gas tank is higher than your carb, yes it will work. In most garden tractors that isn’t feasible. Also, if you choose to do this, and your needle seat fails or the float gets stuck open, you will flood your motor. The pump acts as a kind of fuel shutoff when the motor is off. Fix your pump if you can, it makes a lot of stuff better