HOW TO REPLACE Loud Noisy DECK BEARINGS on a JOHN DEERE LA145. Riding Lawnmower problem FIXED!
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- Опубліковано 17 гру 2017
- Very LOUD Noisy Deck Bearings when the BLADES are ENGAGED. HOW TO REMOVE and REPLACE the DECK BEARINGS on a JOHN DEERE LA145 Riding Lawnmower 48" inch cutting deck. Similar REBUILD Procedure for MOST Riding Lawn Mowers. Common problem. Watch Jeff Replace the Deck Bearings on a Rider Lawnmower. Lawn mower deck problems diagnosed and repaired. Bearing REMOVAL and INSTALLATION. Belt location directions diagram. Blades Sharpen.
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PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am demonstrating the least expensive, quickest "backyard", "backwoods"methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Remember to always work safely and follow proper mechanic procedures. Thank you for watching!
Jeff
Good vid! A man that knows the value of pre-lubing nuts/bolts, no wasted time!-
John Deere said I needed a new deck, about $550.00. Thank the Lord I saw your video. This is ALL my deck needs. Thanks. Thanks. Thanks.
You explained step by step so simple and clear contrary to other videos where you dont know what language they speak. You are now my go to videos for my lawnmower needs...thanks Jeff
Thanks for the video! Being and old man wearing glasses, owning a impact driver, and not wanting to stoop over for the whole project, my choice would be to slip off the blades and use that impact driver to remove each whole bearing housing. Then I would rebuild it on my work bench where I can stand straight up and see it much better. That also might give you a better chance to clean up all parts including your deck and check for any cracking etc. Your method achieves the same results of course. My back just hurts watching you wrestle that deck around on the ground. If you have a pickup truck, the tailgate area makes a good workbench for mower decks if you can get someone to help you put it there initially. Good Luck!
Thanks friend! good tips with the tailgate idea. I do have work benches but they are always full!
Thanks! It is nice seeing all the parts involved in those spindles and deck bearings and how they fit together!
I love the attention to detail and how he so carefully flips the deck over...
I WAS THINKING THE SAME THING AND USING HIS TOOLS FOR A HAMMER
And dropping the parts in the grass
Rule #1 - take care of the equipment. Rule #2 - take care of your tools. Staying organized is a plus too.
He's a true shadetree, he is.
This is a great video. I had trouble removing the pulley, the impact wrench was the key! I have a simpicity and it is very similar.
It’s a good idea to also add grease fittings to housings too (if the manufacturer didn’t) and then remove seals from inner surfaces of the new bearings so grease can actually enter the bearing and do its job. Leave the seals in place on the outer surfaces of the bearing to help prevent entry of contaminants and water. Then advise/instruct owner to grease the fittings each month and prior to winter storage. The manufacturer builds these machines with sealed bearings and no grease points because they believe most homeowners are too lazy and stupid to service equipment properly. This causes premature wear and bearing failure, which typically ends in service expense.
Too lazy and stupid is a fact of life for humanity, even mechanics often fail to do adequate maintenance on their own garden tools. Part of the reason grease fittings disappeared from cars everywhere is because new sealed bearings were better than relying on maintenance. It would be interesting to see a trial of bearings intentionally damaged to permit maintenance vs sealed bearings with no maintenance. I will guess that the sealed bearings would win, even in those homes where backyard mechanics stated full intention to grease the fittings every month. Life gets in the way of best intentions.
I have to take deck off to get to the blades to sharpen them,so since I'm there we pull the shafts and bearings pop the seals out of the bearings clean check condition of bearings regrease with wheel bearing grease. Reassemble seems to work great.
@@spelunkerd Even if you removed both inner seals off the bearings unless you drill some small holes in the outer seals the outer seals would pop out under the pressure of the grease. It defeates me why JD actually has a grease point at all, with sealed bearings it does absolutely nothing at all apart from fill a void with grease.
@@spelunkerd IM very curious about your response . All my trucks since 2000 havent had zerts. one ford person said once they need grease its probably already a bad bearing... I wonder if maybe the engineers think that we over grease things that allows moisture to get into bearing cups?? i mean Ive sen people use air greasers that hold the trigger like its an automatic gun. i think maybe it causes damage to over grease and blows seals to keep out moisture .. Your thoughts??
@@culbyj3665 I share your concern about over greasing and pressure effects on the seal. But in the big picture, most grease fittings never get used.
Really appreciate the effort of filming while you're working on that mower deck. Trying to hold a camera and work must be tough.
Sure am glad I do all my own maintenance and repair work. Everybody treats equipment differently.
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to put this out there and share.. YOU THE MAN! 👍
Brilliant video. Thank you. I ate a bearing a couple weeks ago on my JD D-140. Dang it. And I'd replaced all three spindle assembles about 2 years ago. This got me up and mowing again. And yes, embarrassed about replacing last time rather than rebuilding. This time a couple of bearings at TSC cost me $17, way cheaper. Then I ordered 10 bearings from Amazon for $16. Now to rebuild those spindles I had on the shelf.
I keep a hundred just to start the year off and busyness is good
Great video, thanks and love your commentary style and sense of humor.
Getting ready to replace my bearing, your video will help me so much, thanks.
Great tutorial! I commend your efforts, but I choose to replace the spindle assemblies along with two pullies that had bad bearings...done and done ✅.
that's way to go and then you good for another few years. You can get deck rebuild kits with 3 spindles, blades, and belt CHEAP on Amazon and Ebay. I was like you, pull that damn deck off and I'm just replacing whole assembly. Might as well clean deck underneath and get a can of yellow tractor paint for like $7.00 and your deck is back to new after you put blades back on and ew belt. Can do pulleys for cheap if u need but if nothing wrong with can always replace later when doing belt replace or sharpening blades. Don't have to take deck off to change pulleys.
Great video, very informative and great back drop! All I would add is that you can put your wrench on the movable pulley nut and pull it toward the engine (front), giving you slack to remove/put the belt on more easily!
good tip! thanks friend!
Thanks for video. Now I understand what that noise is and how to fix it.
Great video. Love the shorts. Winter is a state of mind
I just bought an LA145 with 130 hours, it is probably ten years old but looks new, but the deck has a loose spindle, cant believe it, thought it would be like new... Thus... a mower deck bearing can fail in 130 hours on one of these if not greases, it does not look abused... and original owner and deck...
I paid 1000 Canadian, and that was a good to great steal...
Thanks for the video, if I have zerks, I will remove the inner bearing seals, and those belt guards are going so I can blow off the dust and debris to prevent rust... wish John Deere was more heavy duty... I have a 445 with the Kawasaki and the five foot mower I thought something was wrong with it so I bought the 145, but when the 145 spindle was screaming after an hour use, I fired up the 445 and it mowed my farm no problem, the mole hills dulled the blades, so I just slowed down for the wiry thick and tall grass...
Am going to head to a bearing shop for the best quality bearings, JD is just too overpriced.
Same for the oil filter and air filter for the Kawasaki...
Kudos, great video! Thanks, for being so informative and clear.
Very detailed! Thanks for the video!!
cute family day out. Thanks for the video!
Good work Jeff it's ready for another season.
Excellent and fun video, sir; thank you!!
Great video. Whenever I need to change mine on my cub cadet I'm gonna remove the bearings inner seal so some grease actually reaches the bearings. I understand why they made them that way,but I stay ontop of maintenance pretty good.i cant complain about the original bearings either,on their eighth season and no problems.
Dude- Just buy the spindle kit and replace it. You made way more work for yourself than needed!
That video was well-done. I would suggest working on a mower on a concrete slab. Working in grass, you were dropping hardware in the grass, messing with dog crap, having leaves stuck to your leg, kneeling in wet grass. Yecch.
Good video, I'm needing to do the same to my raggedly old 212. I was thinking I might need to replace the whole hub but I'll try your approach and hope that does it. I'm sure it will be way cheaper.
We appreciate your time! Thank you so much! Job well done.
Thanks your video was a great help in understanding!
Thanks for the video. Funny you used the video to put the belt back on. I'm glad that I took a picture before I replaced mine a few years ago, Normally I don't have that foresight.
A little anti-seize on the blade side shaft threads will go a long way to increase the life of the shaft, and make the nuts easier to remove.
Nice job! It looms in my future, so youi can imagine how pleased I was to find your vid! I especially liked the camera work - you knew what we needed to see and it was clear and easy to follow. Thanks for a job well done... Yes, I downloaded it for future ref! Cheers!
Awesome, thank you!
You don't have to remove the blades to replace the bearings. Work from the top of the deck. The shaft and blade will fall loose once you remove the top nut.
True and that’s how mechanics do it
@@philliphall5198might as well sharpen the blades at this point😊
My la110 idler pulley system is easy to replace, grind the ring of fasteners to pull the pulley in two, replace the $4 bearing, bolt back on
I really liked this video thanks I've had some belt to go early I know I need to check the pulleys
thanks!
Nice work dude
“Zoink”
I have a mower deck on a 1965 Cub Cadet that has the original bearings greaseable, still good
Nice video. Good shot of the doggy -do...
The 39" deck on a Hydro 175 involves removing the spindles and clamping it into a vice to be able to drive the bearings and shaft out. I bought a shitload of bearings but or new spindles instead.
The thing about blade spindles - regardless of brand - is though they have zerk fittings the bearings are sealed so you pump grease into them for no reason as you are not pushing old grease out and pushing new in. That's why the bearings fail and in a few years is why a lot of people get rid rid of their mowers for cheap to buy new ones. I learned to drop the deck too easily.
After 10 years my LA145 mower deck spun a bearing on one of the idler pulleys - I could have replaced just that item but after a decade of use I decided to rebuild the entire deck. I bought a rebuild kit from Green Dade Outdoor the "48” John Deere 100 Series 145, D140, LA145, X140 Deck Rebuild Kit" @ $138.00 + shipping. Includes belt, three blades, three blade spindles, two small and one large idler pulleys. Here are some tips: 1) After removing the deck, clear off any grass clippings and take a picture of the belt arrangement for future reference. 2) After so many years the nuts won't want to come off without a fight - an impact wrench with 10mm, 15mm and 22mm sockets will solve this problem. 3) The idler pulleys are sealed bearings - so no lube required. And UNLIKE the video I did NOT repack the spindle bearings - the new spindles come fully assembled in new spindle housings. The spindle housings have grease fittings so I filled them with grease - they took quite a bit. Other posters claim this is not needed but hey, it's only grease. I was pleased with the quality of the components supplied in the re-build kit - the job itself is pretty straightforward as described in the video - WITH ONE EXCEPTION. 4) When I went to mount the re-worked deck the new belt was about an inch or so too small to fit over the electric clutch pulley. Even using a crow bar to push the belt-tensioner assembly FULLY forward I could not get the new belt over the clutch pulley - close but no cigar. I decided to try removing the idler pulley on the LEFT side of the deck (the left as seen from the drivers normal position). This gave me about 4 more inches of belt to work with so it was easy to get the belt over the clutch pulley - the belt tensioner took up the slack, for now anyway. BUT the left belt guard is now in the way so I left the belt guard off and ran the mower - works fine. Of course, if you try this BE CAREFUL not to make contact with the belt. After four mowings of my 3/4 acre lot I found that the belt had been stretched enough so that it now fits properly with the idler pulley and belt guard back in place. Hope this helps!
When I replaced bearings, I filled the empty spindle housing up with grease, then all is needed is a few pumps of grease after each mow.
I use a large screw driver on the idler tensioner to take the pressure off, which allows me to then slip the belt over the pulley. I almost takes 3 hands, but I've played with it a few times, so I've got it figured out.
I'm sorry but I did mine yesterday. I wouldn't even try to do it in the grass. It went a lot quicker than this. I don't think I would be visiting Jeff's Little Engine Service too soon.
perfect
Very helpful, thank you!
Recently acquired mower about shake me out of the seat when blades engaged. Figured something was worn or bent...not a mechanic....Good video ! Now know where to look for vibration producing wear ! Chickens nice touch....lol
George First thing to check is the blade balance...easy to do with a nail through the blades center hole... and then ALL the bearings in the deck !!!
Great video, I noticed when you engaged the deck, it really shakes, you might want to check the balance all 3 blades.
Thanks friend! Good tip!
Many people complain that mower decks don't last that long - rust out. Mower decks must be thoroughly cleaned underneath after the last mowing of the year. Remove the deck - examine the mandrels for wear, check the blades, check the belt for cuts, and clean all clippings from the surfaces of the deck housing. You can double the life of your mower deck by doing so. Riding mower decks are very expensive.
Yes if the deck is worn to much find a good welding shop and they can make a ring to put where the spindle connects to the deck. When you put it back together you can use washers to get better alignment of the blades and pullies. It costed about 65 dollars in louisiana at a welding shop verses 450 for new deck and works like new now.
thanks. having to work on my husqvarna deck. broke the belt so figured i should take the blades off and sharpen them while i am at it. shafts are wrapped up in old electric fence i ran over last season. glad i can just pound out the shafts instead of replacing the whole mandrel. i'll do new bearings while i am at it since the pulleys aren't moving too nice. they are probably shot anyways after 6 years.
Thank u really helpful..
That was entertaining and informative. 👍
I thank you very much and a good greeting because thanks to your video I learned yesterdayhow to change of my tractor
Thank you sir.
As mentioned, if you're using a wrench, you definitely need to keep the blades on with a chock of some sort (2x4) in order to get the spindle bolts off.
I use electric halve inch impact wrench works great,got from harbor freight also impact sockets.
ITim O'Sullivan oolllô
Interesting approach to replacing deck bearings. I caution those watching this video to be a bit more gentle installing new bearings in the housings. Never ever beat a bearing into place with a hammer!! The housings should be removed and the bearings pressed into position. Note the 5:10-5:15 sections of the video.That particular housing is clearly shot and should have been replaced.
good tips! but hammering the "outer" race evenly on a bearing to install it is usually ok to do
Had mandrel bearings go bad on one of my blades. Bought the entire assy. for $17 on eBay. That thin casted housing only lasts so long. And, don't have to beat bearings in and out of aluminum housing.
Good job figuring it out. . Gave me an idea of what to do. Though I probably wont hammer on my new bearings since i won't be needing my repeat business next year.
lol! Make sure toonly contact the outer bearing race when "pressing/pounding" them in to place
Took ALL 6 bearings out of my d140 48" deck today. I grease 2 x per year. ALL 6 bearings were fully packed with grease. the seals on my bearings were not fully covering the bearing innards. Sound like Deere fixed the greasing problem when using the spindle zerts.
Great job and nice dog and chickens to help you.
thanks!
Your dog is the best ❤️😘😘🐾🐾 Like ours: the Labradors aren’t interested in birds unless they fall from the sky 😂🤓
Absolutely loved this video! VERY informative and filmed well. That's a nasty job you took on there but you made it seem like it wasn't too difficult. My experience is anything that can go wrong will but in this case things went rather well I'd say. Deck was a filthy mess! Probably coulda used a good pressure washing while it was off...but that wasn't your mission. Not sure how long this took you in total time but it would have taken me like a week. And lots of cussing and cut fingers and such along the way. Not sure why you didn't do it in a garage but you showed every single step quite clearly and made what you were doing understandable too. My hat's off to all good mechanics! I think they are under-rated and often under paid. Takes a lot of skill and experience to be a good mechanic. Also love your laid-back attitude and constant informative comments.
Wish mine were that easy.. Pressed bearing and seemingly seized on the double pully, seized clips on the bottom, seized shafts in the bearings, different bearing on the idler... It wasn't the easiest to get together either. It's got new bearing and fresh grease in the idler bearing. It's ready to go on now but they are not all butter like this. I just hope those rivets hold up on the idler lol. If not, it's getting rod through it and peened flat. Don't wanna use bolts, might work loose. It also had to be welded up because of rust around the spindle on one side, also a few cracks around the brackets. You had it easy lol.
Thanks really helpful to see how it comes apart, I would have taken off aluminum housing if I hadn't seen your video
Thanks for teaching sir
Thanks Jeff!
Thank you that was great. Nice of you to take the time. Thank you
Thanks David
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Bearings going in a bit too easy. Might be needing to replace mandrel/spindle housing soon. I had a similar experience with my John Deere. Thanks for the video!
Good eye Gilbert you are right!
I noticed the same thing with my old Craftsman mower, even with new spindles. The outer race would spin in the mandrel, wearing it out quickly. A little green Loctite 640 sleeve retainer solved that problem. Kept the race from spinning. I'm going to use it on the Deere too. Can't hurt.
He belted them in from the inner race . That destroys the bearing .
Yes, I think I would have used sleeve and seal retainer on those.
In the elevator business I seem to remember replacement of bearings always required a Loctite bearing compound on the outer race and/or inner face to seal the bearing in the seat . I believe it helped prevent blowing out the bearing with a grease gun. Anyone know for sure?
JoeB
Also I don't have a impact gun but I jam a peice of wood behind blade to keep it from turning and use a breaker bar to get blades off .
Brilliant video thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
I have to drop my deck on a D100. From a wheelchair. Gotta grind of the deck and paint it. Wife loves to use it
Right on
everyone told me this model was junk but I wore out a set of tires before I had to change a belt. still running good at 12yrs old.
Just checked my Model 145 I purchased at a J-D tractor dealer (same as the LA145) just a different model # put on it. Yes, mine's 13 years old and doing well. Did some reconditioning over the winter - had to replace the steering assy. with parts I found on internet. Don't have to use J-D parts which are about half-again, or more, higher priced.
Note: using a large screwdriver or pry tool on the tensioner pulley assy. on the mower deck enables reinstalling the belt around the clutch pulley a lot easier. Hmm...should have made a video.
Same with my LA145from Home Depot. !00 hours - no problem - other than early-on crack in yellow seat and peeling yellow paint under plastic guards from packed grass which my Stihl blower never did clear over the past few years. Just installed new air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, oil and oil filter from a JD kit. Only greased the spindles once. I can see the water resistance function of the grease in the spindle.
The bearing is spun in the spindle housing you need all new spindle assemblies.
And the bearing should not fall onto the shaft that easy.
@@crashland5711 and
or knurl them and use some Loctite 640 sleeve retainer
Love the Sears/Craftsman vintage tractors I was never into John Deere
You and me both!
PA LAWN GUY And Aircraft mech.> Please don't transfer pounding force across the ball bearings. It will Burnell the races so it is good the outer races went in easy.
Man, you made that look easy.I'm a rookie at this, but will be attempting it for the first time on my LA145 very soon.I guess the bright side is if it goes awry I can always buy 3 new spindle assemblies and replace them.Just curious, are both sides of the bearing supposed to be closed?The ones I ordered are, but I've watched a couple videos where one side was open.Thanks for the video!
Use old motor oil when you change oil and paint the bottom of deck with it
Take time to pressure wash it and dry first
Thanks for the video. Were the idler bearings o.k. I have to change them often on my JD.
yep the other pulley bearings were still in good shape. Thanks for watching
On most John Deere mowers the belt diagram is on the bottom side of the running board ! :-)
Some of the shaft housings have grease fittings to apply grease when it is fully assembled. Problem is that if the bearings are sealed from both sides they won't receive any lubricating grease. On mine I have removed the seals from the bearings on the side facing down from the top and up from the bottom. Thought this made sense and now when I add grease I can be sure that the bearings are being lubricated potentially extending the life of these bearings. If they don't have grease fittings it won't matter much.
A grease gun puts out 10 000 psi with every pump them bearing covers don't stop it lol , they are not seals just loose fitting dust covers ya can pick em out with your fingernail. Grease until you see it come out both ends of spindle , the grease goes threw the bearings .
Just a couple of comments. My deck (same model) is still on the original shaft bearings, but has gone through several sets of idlers due to bearing noise. The idlers come as a complete unit, no bearing change possible. The deck you were working on showed lots of neglect. FWIW, the spindle bearings are indeed sealed, but by greasing the spindle shaft zerk fittings you keep the shaft cavity full until it forces grease up & down the shaft and keeps moisture out of the shaft and what is forced out the shaft itself prevents moisture from creeping up the shaft when mowing wet grass. When removing that deck, it is much easier if you RAISE the deck all the way slip a few 2x4's under the sides of the deck and let the deck down on the 2x4's (also suggested in the owners manual). When removing the blades, NEVER use your hands to hold the blade. A block of wood between the blade and deck to jamb it up works better and keeps blood off the paint. Finally, NEVER EVER hammer or press on the inner circle of a bearing that is going to be used. Fine for driving a bearing out, but for installation do what you did with the one bearing and use a deep well socket that is just slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the outer bearing surface. OK, sounds like I found a lot of faults, but at my age I've been to this rodeo a few times and know what saves fingers and parts. Good video overall
Excellent tips Rags722!
Idler bearings can be changed, but you have to drill out the rivets and replace them with small bolts. It works.
True, but at some point the labor involved isn't worth the cost difference.
Possibly. I found bearings on Amazon for 15 bucks for a set of 10, The initial mod takes some time, but once the bolts are installed, the effort is much less.
Rags I noticed that also and I too have been there done that !!!!
thanks for sharing the experience Jeff.. Im fixin to do my 42" Huskee/MTD.. I was wonderin why you didnt spin up the idler pulleys.. mine are srcreamin' and need replaced also... God Bless ! love that country setting too : )
Looking at the parts as you were working on them the spindles looked the same as on my Deere 7H17 except the spindles had holes where mine has zerks (grease fittings) installed. If they are then I would have popped the inner dust covers off the berrings and installed zerks.
On my mower I need to replace the berrings as they have over 10,000 hours on them. Deere commercial mowers are almost bullet proof!
At the prices of "commercial" mowers, they ALL should be bulletproof!
Great job on replacing those bearings on the John Deere. I have a Toro that seems to be having the same symptoms of loose bearings. Would it be the same procedure replacing the bearings on a Toro as a Deere? I like the way that you explain each step that you took to finish the job. Your video was excellent too because you actually show the cutting deck from below. Thanks.
thanks for watching
Hello - thanks for the instruction - I will be replacing the bearings on my MTD yard machine today thanks to this. Questions: what causes the bearings to go? And what kind of cordless drill are you using to remove the bolts around the belt housings? I'm a newbie at this but really like working on stuff. Thank you!
I use a Dewalt cordless drill
Good job
Thank you for watching
good job mate
thanks friend!
Need advice on d140 cutting off when mowing.
Very Good!..
thanks for watching and for the nice comment
This is good DIY video, but doing this in the grass might loose a lot of parts, but each to their own.
I was thinking the same thing.
I always drive my mower onto a tarp so if I drop anything I can find it . And I have a magnet handy to retrieve the parts I drop . Comes from working on farm equipment out in the hayfield .
Hi mr. Jeff i love watching your video and the chickens...any way when i engage my pto lever its starts smoking. Can u give advice.. Thanks n ADVANCE
make sure the blades and all pulleys can spin freely
Nice work shop…
LOL! thanks
If you can just push the bearings into the housing,like that,then you should replace the housing,as well.
They are a "tap fit",...that is,they are made to be tapped in place,snugly.
Those are going to wobble.
Also if the bearing is sealed on both sides,you don't use grease,if they're open,on one side/sealed on the other,you pack them with grease,and install a zerk fitting.
But,don't mind me,...I've only been doing this work for 48 years....
At 15:08 you say to check the octagon, but I have to tell you it is a hexagon also at 22:49 you refer to it as an octagon again, and looking at the pulley in the grass you can see clearly its a hexagon. And at 4 extra bolts to remove per spindle I would have removed the whole spindle assembly take them to my workbench and clean them properly before reassembling it, with bearing Locktite also put some Anti-seize on the spindle were the nut that holds the blade goes. Also, when you removed the mower deck from the tractor at 1:52 you said no washer, but you can clearly the outline of a washer, you must have lost it the last time you removed the mower deck. Next time you work on your tractor put a tarp or cardboard under it so you don't lose any parts.
good tips
ok got the bearing,s in,now make a run 2 hardware store 2 get all the nut,s and bolts,I drop n grass!!!!
Jeff , check out “dead blow automotive hammers” no bounce back & you can make a heavier blow with it ! Shalom!
very good tip! thank you
My D130 sounded like I had a drag racing car engine before it froze up. It was very loud. I hope it is simple to get it back working again. April 16, 2019.
good luck, sorry that does not sound good....
My Man At The Store Said There Is A Standard Or A Metric 6203 Bearing . Was Just Wondering Which One It Was You Got . Thanks
The idler pulley also needs the bearing replaced. I always keep 2 sets of spindles in reserve , makes it easier. Also take the seal out of one side of the new bearing so when you grease it the bearing gets the grease.
good tips
Since you used sandpaper and grease on the shaft it will not be a pressfitted bearing installation which is needed. The innerring of the bearing will now spin freely on the shaft = wrong.
good info!
You are correct. If the bearing is not a tight fit, apply loc-tite to make sure that the bearing turns and not the shaft inside the bearing.
Well if 1 is bad you rebuild all 3, this way you have a all most a new deck,
14:30 The dog looks like he's hungry and is thinking a chicken sandwich would be good right about now.
lol!
Jeff, HELP!...First, THANK YOU for the video!Without it and videos like it I wouldnt even attempt half the jobs I am able to accomplish now.After months of putting this task off, today much to my surprise I successfully changed the 6 bearings in my LA145 deck with little to no major obstacles.The pulleys which had had some play in them are now tight, buuuuut after re-attaching the deck and firing her up and engaging the blades she was AS LOUD if not LOUDER than before.Any ideas as to why or what else may be causing her to run so loud with the blades on?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks sgain!
Some of what you say is wrong, particularly needing an impact wrench. First clue was not knowing how to take off the deck. Lower the deck on 2x4s and all the tension is gone. Owner doesn't take care of it either.
I've watched a lot of videos of people removing the deck off their mowers. None of them used 2x4s. The company I bought my mower through has a video on removing the deck and the video does not show using 2x4s. It shows lowering the deck to the ground or floor.
Just because you struggle and need your “2x4s” doesn’t mean the rest of us do
@@danielameel7437 If you are going to make a video that teaches novices something, teach them correctly per the manufacturer's instructions. The owners manual and technical service manual clearly states lower the deck on wooden blocks.
u are correct Sir , ive done spindles and much more on my HD 75 walk behind with a 54 inch deck. LITTLES JOHN DEERE in PA is excellent for service and parts..