yes...but have you considered making a list of the tools you use in the description? Would be a nice quick reference to go along with the video/tutorial.
@@raelcartwright1984 np, you basically want to avoid standard cleaners because they leave a reside. This stuff breaks down the dirt, and then exaporates off. Clean rotors and pads (after a sand) with it too.
@@BryceKimball7.3 well, I wouldn't say that, they take out the "sting" out of mountain biking for people who may not be able to ride a normal mtb. Although i feel like if you're able to ride a non-e mtb you propably should
man, between his soothing voice, the slow and steady tempo, and that lofi/chill background music I feel like I just spent the the last few minutes meditating.
Still he made some "entry-level" errors, such as not cleaning the pistons before pushing them back in, not flushing the brake caliper, not cleaning the contaminated brake lever once done flushing the system, not cleaning in a top-down fashion… YMMV basically, by which I mean from my POV he’s a decent mechanic, but I’d argue not "clean and precise" (more so for it’s a scripted video/protocol, so less room for oversights).
@@Tzed250 Which makes that kind of GMBN Tech video even more so disappointing. Again, there had been better tutorials available, why release something half-baked? They do run a commercial channel, so my best guess is the host are pressurized into making & releasing content, and live tutorials are most likely a "good" way to abide by the schedule. It does not make for high-quality content though. Not the end of the world ofc, just reacting to the "too clean and precise" joke/claim. Have a nice day.
Ive cycled most of my life and i have never ever bled my shimano brakes because i didn't know how to and I've just completed the task with no problems thanks to the guys at GMBN.
I found this to be the absolute bees knees. I was being bombarded by other videos about how much I really should take it to a bike shop.. etc etc, and this is just awesome. Please keep it up.Thank you..
Excellent video! Great production quality, great attention to detail! I especially liked your suggestion to tip the bleed cap before screwing it in, to keep an air bubble out. Pure perfectionism! I'd like to suggest some steps to add to your procedure: After removing the pads, use a Q-Tip to clean the protruding portion of the pistons using alcohol or brake oil, before pressing them into the caliper. This will keep dirt out of the system. Then, in my opinion, before pressing the pistons in, remove the fill cap and screw in the funnel. This way, it will be easier to compress the pistons, because it will not pressurize the hydraulic fluid. As you mentioned in your video, sometimes oil squirts out when you remove the fill cap. You lessen this by removing the fill cap before pressing the pistons into the calipers. Last, when you're finished and ready to replace the pads, you should at least wipe off the pads and consider cleaning the rotors. Finally, insert the pads, replace the wheel, loosen the caliper mounting bolts, and press the brake lever. Now you can tighten the caliper mounting bolts with the lever depressed, and the rotor should be perfectly centered between the pads. Spin the wheel to give it a quick test.
Great tutorial,finally explained thoroughly and slowly, I always had a problem with bleeding the brakes because everyone does it differently, in their own way, I also needed time to develop my own bleeding style. This video helped me get even better at bleeding the brakes, thanks a lot for that. Greetings from Warsaw, Poland
Of all the brake bleed vids on UA-cam this is the most helpful one I've found. None of them really seem to start with the the core concept - filling the brake line and level with clean fluid with no air bubbles in it. All the stuff about putting a bag on or doing the little squeeze/open caliper bleed valve quickly is a waste of time in my experience. Henry's approach is the most effective, tidiest, and least hassle. Chur bud, come back to live in NZ sometime @Henry Quinney
Thank you so much for this demonstration. You have convinced me that my older mechanical disc brakes are the way to go. :) You are a great tech and I am convinced that I would not want to do this myself. Thank you again.
I used to think like you. Then I finally got some hydraulic brakes. Bleeding is not something you need to do every year or even really periodically. It's not like mechanicals are completely maintenance-free, either. Sooner or later, you'll have to take them apart to clean, lubricate and rebuild, and I can tell you that's no picnic, either.
@@amightysailingman LOL 😆 Since the time I wrote this my mechanical brakes failed on my everyday rider and I replaced them with Shimano disc brakes that are so much better. Then I got my Commencal Meta with SRAM disc brakes which are fantastic.
@@jozzaaa check out Sram's official video. It's excelllent. ua-cam.com/video/DRt-CP2l474/v-deo.html But there's no way around the Bleed kit (Sram bleed kit standard / professional with bleeding edge port). I use jagwire's pro bleed kit for dot systems. Also note that you don't need to buy Sram's overpriced dot fluid, any dot 4 or 5.1 (not 5!) for cars etc. will do. I typically use Liqui Moly dot 5.1
Great video Loved how you did not skip any parts, or assume any prior knowledge or experience and you did not fast forward. Sometimes l feel very put off by presenters who do that, not everyone is technically savvy and some of us are still trying to get enough courage to tackle our first 'big job' so it helps a lot. By the way thought the Westlife and manicure references were very funny.
Great work Henry. After running Hopes on my bike for several years, I've recently got another bike with Shimano, so this was a great refresher course and learned a few tips as well
Sure it isn't, but he is not using a mineral oil per se, he has some sort of a solution based on mineral oil. While mineral oil is ok, that other stuff might not be... he doesn't want it under his skin, I wouldn't either... would you?
@@rueazy fair point it's not pure mineral oil, Shimano stuff does have about 3% additives (magura doesn't) but it's still not even close to the same league as DOT brake fluid like SRAM uses. If you get some on you, it's no big deal - just wash your hands when you're done. Very few liquids associated with cycling tend to be "nasty" fortunately (the ones in the bike anyway!)
@@patrickparisienne1917 mineral oil used in bicycle brakes is NOT the same thing as DOT brake fluid, very important to understand that. DOT fluid *is* nasty stuff, and one of the reasons I prefer not to use SRAM brakes
im a mechanic and i always find it funny when people call stuff like bike mineral oil nasty stuff etc when ive gotten every chemical that goes into cars and machinery on my skin, in my mouth and eyes etc yet am perfectly fine
Outstanding, thank you Yoda! You know what, I could see you're fastidious about contamination but i considering its the most important safety mechanism on any bike it's detail that's worth being anally retentive about. Thanks again for this video, best one I've seen!
Good guide, but I'm missing the step when after flushing oil through the caliper to the lever, tightening the nut and removing the syringe. Then connecting a new tube to a bag and opening the nut again to let air trapped in the caliper escape as the fluid goes backwards. I think this is really important for back brakes which are more difficult to get all of the air out.
Remember that AskGMBN with the thumbnail "Who is this guy?" when Henry had newly joined. Henry made a deal with Martyn to show us how to build a wheel. I'm still waiting for that. So when Mr. Ashton is back, let's make that happen.
Great video. One thing, mineral oil isn’t harmful to humans. The DOT oils are, that SRAM uses. This is one of the biggest benefits to servicing Shimano vs SRAM.
Thank you for the great video! First time bleeder/installer here! I watched 3 other videos, then did the bleed on new shimano m8000 levers. After installed, the brakes felt like they were too mushy and maybe 50% of what they should be. Today I found your video, and messing with those two adjustments... the free stroke & the other nob that adjust lever reach made all the difference. Now I have brakes again!
Great video, I am inspired by your commitment to cleanliness. The thoroughness of the process gave me confidence to do this maintenance. But first I need to make a clean place to work. I do not yet have a detonated bike cave/workshop. So I am going to make a concerted effort to get the area clean and ready as well as try to keep it that way. Bike cave is one of the portions of the GMBN Tech show I envy most. Many viewers have such nice workspaces/ bike caves. Thanks for the tech and inspiration. I might even get a mani pedi.
I bleed from the caliper, pulling fluid from the bucket at the brake lever, and gravity helps pull the bubbles down. This is the motor trade technique and it works well.
Great video. I couldn't get the tube to fit on to the caliper opening but the syringe had a really small nozzle. I was able to compress the oil in to the caliper tube without the tube attachment. Hopefully this isn't an issue doing it this way. But I got the point on teasing the syringe back to get rid of air in the syringe. After I bled the brakes after flicking the brake lever 20-30 times I started to notice the pressure increase on the brakes.
Great video, thanks! However, despite talking so much about avoiding contamination you forgot to wipe off the big puddle of fluid that was all over the lever after you put the screw back in.
Tip, you are bleeding the wrong way, on cars, etc. the dirt/rust is in the hoses/pistons, so bleed away from the master cylinder (and its narrow passages and rubber seals), fill the Master cylinder, like you have, then PULL on the syringe to extract the dirty fluid, putting in FRESH from the top!! - aka 'vacuum bleeding'. this works on cars to, esp. if you have abs on them, as all the air is DOWN not flowing into the tiny pipes, valves etc. in this system.
Should've done the tutorial without removing the lever and caliper from the bike. 99% of people are going to want to leave it on the bike, and there are some important tips for doing it that way. Good tips on the lever adjustments, though. Should get that last bit of air out needed for a stiff lever.
Hey gang, you're hands do NOT come out of vinyl gloves "clean"! They've been soaking in a tepid bath of your own juices and MUST be washed or else... yuk! Oh yes... if someone has put the tools back soiled, you should definitely send them a firmly-worded memo. :( Thanks for the "pro tips", Henry! You are appreciated.
Great tutorials you guys are doing.this is a job I'm actually looking forward to do.another one will be changing to tubeless.they both seem as very rewarding jobs.👍🏻
Great tutorial. But I would like a more in depth explanation about the free stroke screw. You leave it full threaded in when you finish or half threaded? I,ve been playing with it but I don't get what it actually does... Cheers!
Excellent video, thank you! I share very much your fear of contamination. I too wash everything thoroughly before I begin to touch, service or repair any bike or other devices. I am more or less a novice in servicing hydraulic brakes, thus I would very much like to have your opinion on the following: What is the advantage of bleeding with the help of a syringe over bleeding with the help of gravity? Thanks again!
Good stuff... Other than your west life and manicure Soundbites.. I'm sure you can do that hydraulic bleed procedure a lot quicker too, just like a early 19th century blood transfusion..😊
A good idea is to clean The pistons with some cue tips before pushing them back. I push them out with the lever and then clean them then push them back
Nice tutorial, I downloaded the shimano pdf on brake bleeding and they say to bleed caliper to lever like you have done but then to bleed lever to caliper too
Just recently got some chain oil contamination on my motorbicycle's rear hybrid hydro. I should really hit it with some alcohol, I guess. There is no such thing as being too afraid of contamination. My brake completely stopped working cause of it.
Love the ease of the Shimano bleed procedure and what a pleasure to watch a good humored dude with a cleaning fetish like myself. Hah! What 98 idiots (at the time of this writing) would give a down-vote to such a perfectly executed tutorial?!
Honest, chilled answer: it might be because it’s *not* a "perfectly executed tutorial", the guy (who’s allegedly not a "cleaning fetish") made several entry-level errors. There have been better tutorials available. Note: I did not downvoted the video (which hopefully makes me a better kind of idiot).
I trimmed my hose yesterday. Bleed lever only and it seemed ok. Went for a ride and lever was spongy. Bleed it again following procedure on video. In morning lever was spongy to hard after few pumps Today I bleed the system again, twice. Crazy
I think the trick for something like this is to view several demonstrations of the same brand and model and feel secure in having finally understand the process. At this point I at least have a very good idea of what has to be done. I'll continue to view more of these informative videos and compare notes.
Bruh, im a first timer and your titorial is great, but when i removed the brake block thing i squeased the brake lever. I soon found out the piston went out and oil was leaking so i have to do it again😓
3 hours later and i did it My second try! Thanks for the tutorial i was scared to do this and paniced when i got a problem first time, but by following it better it worked!
you guys have done detailed brake bleeds for both shimano and sram multiple times. what you haven't done is a video of a full damper side rebuild of a pike fork, preferably with a charger 2 damper. any plans to do this one day?
Hello, Henry. What about the not functioning Free-Stroke screw on the new models M8120 and M9120? It seems in this video you do a full bleeding of M8020 model (or I am wrong?). I own two pieces of M8120 model (brand new front and rear) and I can confirm it doesn't do a thing. There are many complains on the internet of different owners of the latest models of Shimano brakes. How to solve this problem? Can we return the products to the manufacturer and wait another model? It seems these models are the same as many other products made by others manufacturers in other industries: phones, tv, operating systems and so on.
Did you find these tips helpful?
Absolutely.
Thank you Henry, it looks so much easier than when I read Shimano's instructions !
Awesome Henry ,great job.
yes...but have you considered making a list of the tools you use in the description? Would be a nice quick reference to go along with the video/tutorial.
You always release these videos when I need them somehow.
Henry: always cleaning to prevent contamination.
Me: oil squirted everywhere, stains on clothes, floor, handlebars all greasy.
Yeah preparations is key. Have everything ready before you start . I had the same problem but next time i gonna be El Champione.
Tip: Clean the pistons *before* you reset/push back, otherwise you are potentially pushing dirt into the piston seals of the caliper 👍
And how would you clean the pistons
@@raelcartwright1984 Isopropyl alcohol, cotton buds (Q-tips) & toothpick 👍
@@herculesmclovin thank you
@@raelcartwright1984 np, you basically want to avoid standard cleaners because they leave a reside. This stuff breaks down the dirt, and then exaporates off. Clean rotors and pads (after a sand) with it too.
Legitimetly the calmest dude on earth. Love watching his videos, particularly his how-to’s as he’s ultra meticulous and I always learn something new
Unless he is down-talking ebikes...
@@SusiBiker e bikes are stupid. They completely ruin the point of a bike.
@@BryceKimball7.3 well, I wouldn't say that, they take out the "sting" out of mountain biking for people who may not be able to ride a normal mtb. Although i feel like if you're able to ride a non-e mtb you propably should
man, between his soothing voice, the slow and steady tempo, and that lofi/chill background music I feel like I just spent the the last few minutes meditating.
This guy is too clean and precise to be a mountainbiker😂
next day it goes and gets thrashed in the mud
Yea and too much drama in theses videos..like teaching chimps..
Still he made some "entry-level" errors, such as not cleaning the pistons before pushing them back in, not flushing the brake caliper, not cleaning the contaminated brake lever once done flushing the system, not cleaning in a top-down fashion… YMMV basically, by which I mean from my POV he’s a decent mechanic, but I’d argue not "clean and precise" (more so for it’s a scripted video/protocol, so less room for oversights).
@@chikamichi
And yet he’s making a living as a mechanic on the UCI WC Downhill circuit😉
@@Tzed250 Which makes that kind of GMBN Tech video even more so disappointing. Again, there had been better tutorials available, why release something half-baked? They do run a commercial channel, so my best guess is the host are pressurized into making & releasing content, and live tutorials are most likely a "good" way to abide by the schedule. It does not make for high-quality content though. Not the end of the world ofc, just reacting to the "too clean and precise" joke/claim. Have a nice day.
Love how Henry services bikes like a piece of artwork, so much passion!
Ive cycled most of my life and i have never ever bled my shimano brakes because i didn't know how to and I've just completed the task with no problems thanks to the guys at GMBN.
Great job! It's very educational watching an experienced mechanic work in real-time. =)
Real-time is so much more helpful than guys who just tell you what to do and skip five minutes to the next step. Thanks man 🤙🏼
Been bleeding brakes, successfully, for a few years now and I've still gotten some tips to improve my bleeds massively! Thanks a lot!
This is the best bleeding video that I have seen on UA-cam, and I watched many!
Minute 13:16, that was just the advice I needed to bleed my brakes at perfection. Thanks, nobody told me that!
I found this to be the absolute bees knees. I was being bombarded by other videos about how much I really should take it to a bike shop.. etc etc, and this is just awesome. Please keep it up.Thank you..
Excellent video! Great production quality, great attention to detail! I especially liked your suggestion to tip the bleed cap before screwing it in, to keep an air bubble out. Pure perfectionism! I'd like to suggest some steps to add to your procedure: After removing the pads, use a Q-Tip to clean the protruding portion of the pistons using alcohol or brake oil, before pressing them into the caliper. This will keep dirt out of the system. Then, in my opinion, before pressing the pistons in, remove the fill cap and screw in the funnel. This way, it will be easier to compress the pistons, because it will not pressurize the hydraulic fluid. As you mentioned in your video, sometimes oil squirts out when you remove the fill cap. You lessen this by removing the fill cap before pressing the pistons into the calipers. Last, when you're finished and ready to replace the pads, you should at least wipe off the pads and consider cleaning the rotors. Finally, insert the pads, replace the wheel, loosen the caliper mounting bolts, and press the brake lever. Now you can tighten the caliper mounting bolts with the lever depressed, and the rotor should be perfectly centered between the pads. Spin the wheel to give it a quick test.
Great tutorial,finally explained thoroughly and slowly, I always had a problem with bleeding the brakes because everyone does it differently, in their own way, I also needed time to develop my own bleeding style. This video helped me get even better at bleeding the brakes, thanks a lot for that. Greetings from Warsaw, Poland
Made my first bleeding ever this morning using this video and it was a total succes! Big thanks
Of all the brake bleed vids on UA-cam this is the most helpful one I've found. None of them really seem to start with the the core concept - filling the brake line and level with clean fluid with no air bubbles in it. All the stuff about putting a bag on or doing the little squeeze/open caliper bleed valve quickly is a waste of time in my experience. Henry's approach is the most effective, tidiest, and least hassle. Chur bud, come back to live in NZ sometime @Henry Quinney
Thank you so much for this demonstration.
You have convinced me that my older mechanical disc brakes are the way to go. :)
You are a great tech and I am convinced that I would not want to do this myself.
Thank you again.
It's actually very very easy, these tutorials just make them appear more difficult.
I used to think like you. Then I finally got some hydraulic brakes. Bleeding is not something you need to do every year or even really periodically. It's not like mechanicals are completely maintenance-free, either. Sooner or later, you'll have to take them apart to clean, lubricate and rebuild, and I can tell you that's no picnic, either.
@@amightysailingman
LOL 😆
Since the time I wrote this my mechanical brakes failed on my everyday rider and I replaced them with Shimano disc brakes that are so much better.
Then I got my Commencal Meta with SRAM disc brakes which are fantastic.
This is the Shimano brake bleed video to watch, plus all information is best delivered with a British accent.
Awesome, could you do this for SRAM? It’s loads more confusing
@@jozzaaa check out Sram's official video. It's excelllent. ua-cam.com/video/DRt-CP2l474/v-deo.html
But there's no way around the Bleed kit (Sram bleed kit standard / professional with bleeding edge port). I use jagwire's pro bleed kit for dot systems. Also note that you don't need to buy Sram's overpriced dot fluid, any dot 4 or 5.1 (not 5!) for cars etc. will do. I typically use Liqui Moly dot 5.1
They did already. But yes SRAM/RS have great videos and manuals for all servicing on their website
Just swap it out to shimano. ..Fixed 😃
@@stevecrump1375
I have ridden both hydraulic and mechanical and I am staying with my mechanical disc brakes.
Steve Crump that I’m doin’ soon.
When he didn’t wipe the excess oil off the lever😥
@Henry Quinney Even the pros make mistakes! I forgive you! Love your work
Lol i was laughing at that because hell have contamination nightmares now. Great video though.
Great video
Loved how you did not skip any parts, or assume any prior knowledge or experience and you did not fast forward. Sometimes l feel very put off by presenters who do that, not everyone is technically savvy and some of us are still trying to get enough courage to tackle our first 'big job' so it helps a lot.
By the way thought the Westlife and manicure references were very funny.
Great work Henry. After running Hopes on my bike for several years, I've recently got another bike with Shimano, so this was a great refresher course and learned a few tips as well
Good stuff Phil!
Henry...the Bob Ross of bike mechanics. Excellent vid.
This man is a joy to watch. Fantastic video, super detailed, love it.
Just one thing... Mineral oil isn't really "nasty stuff" imo. If it was, it wouldn't be what they use to make baby oil...
Sure it isn't, but he is not using a mineral oil per se, he has some sort of a solution based on mineral oil. While mineral oil is ok, that other stuff might not be... he doesn't want it under his skin, I wouldn't either... would you?
@@rueazy fair point it's not pure mineral oil, Shimano stuff does have about 3% additives (magura doesn't) but it's still not even close to the same league as DOT brake fluid like SRAM uses. If you get some on you, it's no big deal - just wash your hands when you're done. Very few liquids associated with cycling tend to be "nasty" fortunately (the ones in the bike anyway!)
He means mineral brake fluid, not oil. Mineral brake fluid has been used in cars forever, DOT approved brake fluid for cars is what you want
@@patrickparisienne1917 mineral oil used in bicycle brakes is NOT the same thing as DOT brake fluid, very important to understand that. DOT fluid *is* nasty stuff, and one of the reasons I prefer not to use SRAM brakes
im a mechanic and i always find it funny when people call stuff like bike mineral oil nasty stuff etc when ive gotten every chemical that goes into cars and machinery on my skin, in my mouth and eyes etc yet am perfectly fine
Nice trick with the lever reach and free stroke to get more air out.
nice trick on the lever stroke adjustment
Such a pleasure to watch these videos
I always clean my pad surfaces too before replacing them. And if they're glazed (shiny) I give them a light sand with some really fine sandpaper.
Outstanding, thank you Yoda! You know what, I could see you're fastidious about contamination but i considering its the most important safety mechanism on any bike it's detail that's worth being anally retentive about. Thanks again for this video, best one I've seen!
The best tutorial on bleeding brakes, thank you so much!
Nicely done. Quite different than the method Shimano recommends.
Good guide, but I'm missing the step when after flushing oil through the caliper to the lever, tightening the nut and removing the syringe. Then connecting a new tube to a bag and opening the nut again to let air trapped in the caliper escape as the fluid goes backwards. I think this is really important for back brakes which are more difficult to get all of the air out.
Excellent westlife reference! Really good to see real time videos
Remember that AskGMBN with the thumbnail "Who is this guy?" when Henry had newly joined. Henry made a deal with Martyn to show us how to build a wheel. I'm still waiting for that. So when Mr. Ashton is back, let's make that happen.
Great video.
One thing, mineral oil isn’t harmful to humans.
The DOT oils are, that SRAM uses.
This is one of the biggest benefits to servicing Shimano vs SRAM.
Thank you for the great video! First time bleeder/installer here! I watched 3 other videos, then did the bleed on new shimano m8000 levers. After installed, the brakes felt like they were too mushy and maybe 50% of what they should be. Today I found your video, and messing with those two adjustments... the free stroke & the other nob that adjust lever reach made all the difference. Now I have brakes again!
Great video, I am inspired by your commitment to cleanliness. The thoroughness of the process gave me confidence to do this maintenance. But first I need to make a clean place to work. I do not yet have a detonated bike cave/workshop. So I am going to make a concerted effort to get the area clean and ready as well as try to keep it that way. Bike cave is one of the portions of the GMBN Tech show I envy most. Many viewers have such nice workspaces/ bike caves. Thanks for the tech and inspiration. I might even get a mani pedi.
Such a comprehensive vid...👏👏👏👏
I bleed from the caliper, pulling fluid from the bucket at the brake lever, and gravity helps pull the bubbles down. This is the motor trade technique and it works well.
Great video. I couldn't get the tube to fit on to the caliper opening but the syringe had a really small nozzle. I was able to compress the oil in to the caliper tube without the tube attachment. Hopefully this isn't an issue doing it this way. But I got the point on teasing the syringe back to get rid of air in the syringe. After I bled the brakes after flicking the brake lever 20-30 times I started to notice the pressure increase on the brakes.
Great job! Perfect timing! Now it's beer o'clock!
Great video, thanks!
However, despite talking so much about avoiding contamination you forgot to wipe off the big puddle of fluid that was all over the lever after you put the screw back in.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you very much
Think I learned more about cleaning and being clean and not contamination rather than bleeding brakes
Henry's Hacks are top notch 👍
Cracking video, i feel more confident in tackling my brakes now. Thank you
This guy's like the Gordon Ramsay of bike maintenance. Brilliant!
Haha so cool how you throw Doddy under the bus for the sake of a laugh! :D Legend
perfect timing, just been bleeding some 810 saint brakes, still got the rear to do
Tip, you are bleeding the wrong way, on cars, etc. the dirt/rust is in the hoses/pistons, so bleed away from the master cylinder (and its narrow passages and rubber seals), fill the Master cylinder, like you have, then PULL on the syringe to extract the dirty fluid, putting in FRESH from the top!! - aka 'vacuum bleeding'. this works on cars to, esp. if you have abs on them, as all the air is DOWN not flowing into the tiny pipes, valves etc. in this system.
Awesome job Henry, you made what was a daunting task to me, seem like I could successfully do it!! Great stuff, thank you!! 👍🏻🤘🏻
Should've done the tutorial without removing the lever and caliper from the bike. 99% of people are going to want to leave it on the bike, and there are some important tips for doing it that way. Good tips on the lever adjustments, though. Should get that last bit of air out needed for a stiff lever.
Remember to check if the o-ring comes off with the little bolt on the lever.. same goes for the one on the bucket that you screw into the same slot.
Hey gang, you're hands do NOT come out of vinyl gloves "clean"! They've been soaking in a tepid bath of your own juices and MUST be washed or else... yuk!
Oh yes... if someone has put the tools back soiled, you should definitely send them a firmly-worded memo. :(
Thanks for the "pro tips", Henry! You are appreciated.
Man, I need to improve my methods. Absolutely no excuses.
Thanks so
I h. Very helpful for my first bleed.
Your meant to tell your viewers to check that the rubber seal is with the resevoir bolt on removal before screwing on the mineral oil funnel.
Thank you! I thought I knew but learned a lot more!
amazing video! thank you so much for this detailed process, super helpful!
I solemnly swear Henry has magic powers
You explained very nice and clear thank you very much young man
Great tutorials you guys are doing.this is a job I'm actually looking forward to do.another one will be changing to tubeless.they both seem as very rewarding jobs.👍🏻
clear; to the point; recommended!
AMAZING VIDEO THX GUYS - Tomorrow I'm gonna buy myself a Shimano bleed kit and do some work!🙌😊
“Bleeding a Shimano disc brake system AMSR”
Great tutorial. But I would like a more in depth explanation about the free stroke screw. You leave it full threaded in when you finish or half threaded? I,ve been playing with it but I don't get what it actually does... Cheers!
Did you ever find out what it does as I now also have this question??
Thank you !! igreat information now I know how it. I like how you work I'm the same way. Do it right or not at all. 🇺🇲👍🏻
Henri, you are so nice. The best in the channel
Excellent video, thank you! I share very much your fear of contamination. I too wash everything thoroughly before I begin to touch, service or repair any bike or other devices. I am more or less a novice in servicing hydraulic brakes, thus I would very much like to have your opinion on the following: What is the advantage of bleeding with the help of a syringe over bleeding with the help of gravity? Thanks again!
Good vid Great sense of humor,too.
BUT:
Cross contamination of old fluid and syringe
No eye protection esp with spraying
Good stuff... Other than your west life and manicure Soundbites.. I'm sure you can do that hydraulic bleed procedure a lot quicker too, just like a early 19th century blood transfusion..😊
excellent tutorial
Sometimes a little bit of OCD is a good thing lol. Great video, very helpful
Great to see the best way.
Thanks 👍
Excellent! Thank you, Henry!
Such a fantastic video! Going to use the lever technic next time cause I always had a slight trouble getting all the air bubbles out.
A good idea is to clean The pistons with some cue tips before pushing them back. I push them out with the lever and then clean them then push them back
Yes, done in H's brake tips video he did couplemonths ago
@@rupedog yeah definitely mate. I'd do it on a brake bleed as well
Absolutely. Why push any crap INTO the system if you can remove it first?
Nice tutorial, I downloaded the shimano pdf on brake bleeding and they say to bleed caliper to lever like you have done but then to bleed lever to caliper too
Super helpful video ! Did it for the first time following step by step and it worked 🤘🏼 thanks 🫡
Just recently got some chain oil contamination on my motorbicycle's rear hybrid hydro. I should really hit it with some alcohol, I guess.
There is no such thing as being too afraid of contamination. My brake completely stopped working cause of it.
I always thought that mineral fluid was gentle and not too corrosive but know dot fluid is gnarly shit
Henry Quinney fucking hell its henry himself thanks for the reply
May I ask what you use to clean the syringe and funnel? Cheers!
Love the ease of the Shimano bleed procedure and what a pleasure to watch a good humored dude with a cleaning fetish like myself. Hah! What 98 idiots (at the time of this writing) would give a down-vote to such a perfectly executed tutorial?!
Honest, chilled answer: it might be because it’s *not* a "perfectly executed tutorial", the guy (who’s allegedly not a "cleaning fetish") made several entry-level errors. There have been better tutorials available. Note: I did not downvoted the video (which hopefully makes me a better kind of idiot).
I trimmed my hose yesterday. Bleed lever only and it seemed ok. Went for a ride and lever was spongy. Bleed it again following procedure on video. In morning lever was spongy to hard after few pumps
Today I bleed the system again, twice. Crazy
0:40 at this point I gave up a took my bike to the shop.
I think the trick for something like this is to view several demonstrations of the same brand and model and feel secure in having finally understand the process. At this point I at least have a very good idea of what has to be done. I'll continue to view more of these informative videos and compare notes.
I would suggest links to a web site where we could buy the proper tools and supplies for repairing/maintaining our bikes.
Excellent video.
I did not see if he clean the remain oil after screw the bleed bolt at 15:52.
That was really good, thank you.
if only gcn did the tutorial like I learnt to set road bike tubeless up on here and brake bleading for my road as it basically the same
Bruh, im a first timer and your titorial is great, but when i removed the brake block thing i squeased the brake lever. I soon found out the piston went out and oil was leaking so i have to do it again😓
3 hours later and i did it My second try! Thanks for the tutorial i was scared to do this and paniced when i got a problem first time, but by following it better it worked!
you guys have done detailed brake bleeds for both shimano and sram multiple times. what you haven't done is a video of a full damper side rebuild of a pike fork, preferably with a charger 2 damper. any plans to do this one day?
Great video 👍🏻
Hello, Henry.
What about the not functioning Free-Stroke screw on the new models M8120 and M9120?
It seems in this video you do a full bleeding of M8020 model (or I am wrong?).
I own two pieces of M8120 model (brand new front and rear) and I can confirm it doesn't do a thing.
There are many complains on the internet of different owners of the latest models of Shimano brakes. How to solve this problem? Can we return the products to the manufacturer and wait another model?
It seems these models are the same as many other products made by others manufacturers in other industries: phones, tv, operating systems and so on.
Make a LEVER OVERHAUL VIDEO !!!!! PLEASE ( LEVER Does not Return - PISTON STUCK IN BORE )
+ Bonus Cracked Piston Replacement
No way it’s my favorite pink bike host
massively like the real time. What do you clean your tools down with? and also what do you clean the master cylinder and lever with?