My crate engine manufacturer stated OEM to 1800. 302 HO style block. 367 hp at 5700 rpms, and 356 torque. Car is about 3400 lbs +/-. I've got a TCI which was 1700-1900 stall, and it feels like driving a manual car with a burnt up clutch. Car will not start moving until 1500-2000 rpm from a stop. It always feels like it's slipping. Rear axle is a TOTALLY redone 8 inch with posi, 31 spline axles, aluminum pinion support, nodular case and 3:25 gears. Trans builder checked out the transmission and says all is well, and the convertor HE bought for me feels too high. He builds racing transmissions and years of experience, so I figured he would know. I am about to pull my transmission and install a stock stall convertor and stock style flexplate. The SFI rated plate is too thick for the studs on the stock convertor, so it has to go.
My car is acting like it might have a failing torque converter. Slips a lot when engine and trans are cold, meaning the more throttle is put in the rpms keep going higher than they would if it was gripping properly. The car also loses the majority of its power under 3k rpm, and feels slightly underpowered in the higher rpms as well. VQ engine cars upon cold starts usually idle pretty high, and this car isn't doing it anymore... so I'm not sure if its something with the engine or the transmission. I have a feeling it's the torque converter but I'm not entirely sure.
There are a lot of variables at play, but it doesn't sound like a converter issue to me. If it is slipping when it is cold, then doesn't when it is warm, sounds like a bad band in the transmission or something else internal in the transmission. The issue of not idling the same sounds like it is engine related.
Also never put a 7.5 fuse in an empty fuse slot where your transmission control is. That brings on engine light and no lockup. Found that out when I put fuse thereTook it out the next day and everything was fine
I have a 2012 Chevy Express passenger van it's a 5.3 1LT AWD it has 250000 mostly Highway miles. The trans works great, the engine Burns zero oil and consumes no coolant. I'm getting the code PO700 and p0741. Shortly after these codes appeared the van began to accelerate strangely. It did this when I first accelerated and right around 45mpr. it would lose power but then gained it again, it would do this several times before going back to its normal performance. I noticed that my RPMs would go down and then quickly up and down again while it was happening. I know this is all a Telltale sign that it's the torque converter. However there is something else happening that is strange. First when this was happening I turned on my tow/ haul button and all symptoms would go away. The fault codes would go away but then always come back as my vans computer system would run its Diagnostics . For the last two weeks I've been driving my van with the tow/haul button off and the van is performing normally, however the fault codes continue to turn off and on. I have had the torque converter checked by a professional transmission shop and they found that the slippage is minor, in fact they said and I have verified that my type of clutch converter is designed to slip a little bit. They recommend a whole new transmission but I know that it could be other things like a solenoid or the computer. The van is currently running perfectly it has no symptoms.
I had a old Cadillac engine swapped to a Oldsmobile on my 84 eldorado. The Oldsmobile engines came in some of the sister cars of this model so it would bolt right up.... Problem is after the swap the car has no torque when accelerating. Also seems like the rpms rev higher than the car goes. I thought it was a carb issue but looks like it may be something relating to this torque converter.....
Can you confirm that your example at time 2:19 was miss stated or the info about how the weight of the vehicle affect the selection of the stall speed was incorrect. Lighter vehicles would require lower stall speeds not higher. Thanks
Hi. I drive a 2001 Hyundai Elantra 1.6 gls automatic transmission. Fuel consumption is about 21mpg. Acceleration is weak and I feel that there is too much spin on the torque converter during acceleration. Spin varies between 200 - 700 rpms under light acceleration and between 500-1200 under normal/medium acceleration. I feel Hyundai got it all wrong. Is it possible to adjust the torque converter to spin less and accelerate more?
I changed my valve body and solenoids on my truck, it only went in reverse. Now I have to shift up and down a few times to go forward. Do you have any idea what it might be? Thank you!
Hi Juan, We would suggest to check the transmission fluid level (This is done with the engine running, the transmission in Park, and the transmission at a warm temperature), also verify the shift cable is adjusted properly, and lastly you may want to check that the installation of the valve body and solenoids was performed correctly.
@@SummitRacing I did all that. I am going to get more gas for the truck since I wasted most of it trying to get it to go forward. I drove about 10 miles, when I got home I tried to shift and I was back to where I started lol I got it to go forward a few times
Nice video. Great information. I have a 1994 Ford e-250 5.8 with a E4OD transmission. The rear end differential was replaced and it has a different gear ratio than the original. I believe it has 3:73 wheeas the original was 4:10. The engine is stock no upgrades. Does anyone know what torque converter it would require? I carry close to 900 pounds daily. Also, I went to the dealership to inquire about a replacement transmission, and the man said there are two to choose from depending on the rear end gear ratio, Thank you.
I have a 1992 Subaru Legacy automatic. Every gear is forward. R, it goes forward N, it goes forward D, it goes forward 3, it goes forward 2, it goes forward 1, it goes forward, What did I do? I don’t understand! This is my first time but I just rebuild the engine, replaced the valve body
Hi, Many transmission coolers are rated by BTU (British Thermal Unit) A good operating temperature of an automatic transmission is 160º to 200º F as the fluid exits the cooler. If you can maintain fluid temperature below 175º F the fluid should last for as much as 100,000 miles. Higher fluid temperatures drastically reduces the life of the fluid. Cooler temperature equals longer fluid life. Please see the following link for more helpful tech information from B&M. Thank you, static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/BMM-bm_cooler_techdoc.pdf
I know this is an old thread but I have an 88 f150 with the inline 6. Having problems with the motor jumping(shuddering) at low rpms. Could this be the torque converter? The truck had sit for about a year or so prior to me buying it so wondering I'd it just needs driven & given a good tune up maybe? Drives down the road at 30+ mph great. No loss of power, no slipping of gears, nothing else just jumps at slow speeds when accelerating
My 2010 Honda accord does it occasionally. But only when I’m under 30mph or slightly accelerating… been happening over a year now too.. I don’t want to take it to a shop until i know for sure
I have a 2014 Toyota Camry SE and I took it to a Toyota dealer and the replaced my torque converter due to a vibration. But when I got my car back The steering wheel was slightly misaligned with the wheels and my car was pulling to the right. could changing a torque converter affect the misalignment in the wheels?
On the G2704-10 model for my 4l60 transmission I I stalled and when mounting to flex plate noticed it had about a half inch gap from the mounting spot on the converter to flex plate which. Required longer bolts and also never seen a bit and bolt application style tourque converter how are they installed mine would not send any oil pressure and I changed it back to my stock converter it worked just fine so it's not my transmission
I have a skoda rapid 1.6 mpi AT It doesnt change the gear and it moves very slowly like its in high gear And it doesnt show which gear is on the display I dont know whats the problem is
Don’t know if I have a torque converter issue maybe you can help out first thing I noticed when first start up of the dayI i lear a humming noise coming from the front of the transmission after the truck reaches operating temperature coming to a red light RPMs start going up and down and then up and then down and then drops to normal rpm readings at a red light is this a converter issue or is it something else Thanks Frank
Summit racing. I have a original automatic transmission and sometimes when accelerating is shudders and doesn't want to go. And when I let off the throttle and reapply the throttle it goes just like it should. Could this be a torque converter or a shift solenoid?
Hi Shawn, Great video! My 2015 Sienna is shuttering in reverse and feels really weak. I hear a whining noise that I thought was the tires until I got all new tires and the sound is still there. I have 115,000 miles on it and I did have the fluid power flushed by Toyota hoping that it would fix it. Could it be my torque converter? Thank you in advance for your time and consideration. Eric
Hi Earl, Anytime you are adding excessive load from a power adder or dealing with issues that would arise relating to the extreme heat, as in turbo applications with long spooling times at the track, you should consider a converter equipped with an anti-balloon plate, billet front cover, and piston along with hardened internal parts like FTI Performance SRL or SRL-3 Series Billet Lockup Torque Converters.
I’m upgrading the transmission with a zzp hardened torc Converter input shaft. Zzp hardened axle output shaft...heavy duty clutch packs,...and stronger sprocket chain...I would do more but I’m over budget....and I already purchased the high stall speed zzp torc Converter, I will most likely do 2 track runs” just to see the 1/4 mile times....I’m going to have to actually power break it to 3000 rpm before I takeoff....I think the torque converter can probably handle that since its a 3000 stall speed torque converter I’m worry about the CV axle yolks the Pontiac Fiero axle yolks is all pot metal
Hello John, At that speed, your converter should be in lock-up mode unless you're under heavy load or acceleration. Typically, a converter clutch will shutter if it is slipping. A bad lock-up solenoid or debris in the valve body can cause engagement problems as well. I would suggest inspecting your fluid closely for signs of overheating or contamination. The first approach may be a flush and a new filer service. Additionally, there are additives on the market to help with clutch conditioning. www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/transmission-fluid-additives?ibanner=SREPD4
it handy tips what everyone needed you know i personally hate automatic transmission this years because it gotta so worse to fix it n now part no longer available for any transmission to repairs ended up taking to transmission shop n they called back up n said this transmission is no longer to be repaired so it just gave on truck n junk it any vehicle under 98 is no longer be repaired i still own Manuel transmission and still have issues trying find part for it
Great video! I’m having some issues with knowing cam and horsepower first. I have a basic stock 451 Stroker with 4:10 gears. I purchased a 3200 stall. It was WONDERFUL for 3 days. Now I don’t have 2nd or 3rd gear. Had to drive home in low. Pulling everything out this weekend and sending trans back to rebuild shop. The car drove fine but different. I kept in low gear in neighborhoods, only launched it once hard. That was it. Not sure where or why I have failure. I machined down the flex plate bolts, was very careful followed careful instructions but still had problem. Wondering if my gear ratio is wrong? Any info would be much appreciated, thanks
Hi, thank you for the compliments on our video. It does sound like something in the transmission failed, but we would not expect the gear ratio or the torque converter to be directly related to the failure. To determine the correct gear ratio you will need to factor in the height of your rear tires. Here is a link to help calculate the correct gear ratio for the MPH and RPM desired in the final drive gear. www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/calcsandtools/gear-ratio-calculator We hope this helps.
I put a 3700 3800 stall single disk lock up on my 2009 Silverado I have a cam 228r tsp , whenever I put it on reverse or drive it moves slowly I gotta step on the gas so it can move what can it be ?
i've done a Alpina ggearbox flash on my F32 430d and notice that it shifts the gears quicker and the torque seems to have increased should i be concerned...?
Sorry, I didn't get the point at 2:13 - 2:23. You say the lighter the vehicle the lower the stall speed will end up being but you then go on to say your should go to a higher stall speed if you have a light vehicle. Probably my dumb but I don't get this part.
Based on what we have heard, the shudder is caused due to failure of the Torque Converter lock up clutch. We suggest visiting your local GM dealer for more information.
@@SummitRacing there full of bs they claim there no problem and a think a thicker transmission fluid sloves the case but the transmission are dying after 50k miles
So my transmission isnt shifting out of 2nd gear. I changed all of the shift sensors and filter. Put it back together and now it won't shift out of first. Is the torque converter the problem?
So I installed the torque converter on my fly wheel 1st,funished the build and thought I had a starter problem. Click click click. So I went to problem solving and the motor was stuck. So I installed the tourqe converter wrong didn't I lol
Please make sure you installed the torque converter into the transmission first, then bolt the Transmission to the engine and lastly bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. You may want to carefully inspect the front pump of your transmission, hopefully nothing was damaged when the Engine was stuck.
So lets say my automatic car a 5r55s transmission i was 20mph cruising(1st gear still) i gassed it rpm reached first rev red line and i heard a noise and it never shifted to 2nd my car just went neutral. All my gears my car seems to act like its in neutral even reverse and drive 3,2,1 but when its on park my car does it job nd doesnt move it stayed locked in park ? What could be the issue ? I did a fluid change already nd it was dark brown fluid . Pls any info helps
Sounds like you have a serious problem with your transmission that will require inspection. I would recommend you find a reputable transmission shop inspect your issue.
My little mazda been,making a clicking sound at low rpm low throttle for 30k miles now. No leaks, no lights, new plugs, tested coils, trans drain and fill, exhast donut, checked for loose heat shields. Noise goes away in neutral :/ car drives fine, all fluids good and clean, serp belt good and clean, airbox good, throttle body clean, intake seals good, valve cover seal good. Im almost thinking loose catillitic converter material but my friend is emissions guy and my emissions are good and steady. I love this car but this one thing is driving me batty, 2009 mazda 6 base 4cly. Anyone got any ideas? Had this problem in mazda 6 or ford fusion?
Hi Mike, We would suggest taking your vehicle to a reputable shop around your area so the clicking noise can be properly diagnosed. Depending upon where the noise is coming from, it could be the timing chain tensioner, a lifter, or something else.
Hi, The torque converter is bolted to the engine and is always rotating in the same direction of the engine at engine speed no matter what gear the transmission is in. Usually if there is an issue with the torque converter, it will affect all of the gears and not just reverse. It seems like the grinding issue is either internally in your transmission or possibly something in your drive line. You may want to raise the vehicle off of the ground, with the vehicle safely supported, put it in reverse and listen underneath to locate the source of the noise.
The "clunk" is the sound a converter usually makes as it completes its final seating into the transmission pump but may not always be easily detected. Continuously monitor the converter as you are bolting up a transmission, making sure it freely spins as the transmission is drawn up to the engine. If the converter binds, stop and recheck the converter engagement. Damage can occur to a pump if the converter is not seated all the way and the transmission bolted up all the way. If the converter's correctly installed, there should be a small amount of in-and-out play between the converter and the flexplate with the transmission bolted up.
@@SummitRacing hi, I had a transmission replaced last year. After it was put in it randomly does a clunk/thunk uphill or under load. This happens about 25% of the time and more often on long trips. Could that be a torque converter issue?
All bad news for me. After 4 years i still havnt found out where a ticking noise is comming from, I've got a bad back so taking the trans in and out is a no go for me, sux I just want to drive my joy again 😪 I hope it's my flex plate, I don't think it was aligned correctly. Don't listen to mates if your in doubt! Sit on it, do your research, call shops. I lost all my friends and down a car at the worst time of my life having a permanent injury and moving to a place I don't know just so I can afford to keep my pride and joy registered at least... One day though I'll win the lottory! 😉
HULKGQ Nissan Patrol don’t lose hope man I’m on the same road just dropped a new motor on mine and my transmission dipstick started spitting out transmission oil
The bolts that hold converter to flex may be too thick. Easy fix. Take off access plate and look to see if your bolts are hitting block or cover. Mine were hitting making awful ticking noise. Took off bolts one at a time, ground of about an with of and inch, added loc tight and was done in 1 hr. Hope this helps...
The attachment to the flexplate is the difference. The Oldsmobile torque converter uses bolts that thread directly into the mounting pads while a Chevy torque converter uses nuts and bolts through its brackets.
Hello Justin, We would need more information on your application. The compatibility would come down to engine/gearbox bolt pattern, flywheel size, and spacing. Many companies offer adapters for popular applications. Another thing to consider is gearbox ratios. Depending on the application, ratios could differ considerably, affecting performance.
Hey Summit, hope all is well. My 2007 Honda Accord A/T has a whining sound that exists in all gears but much more noticeable in neutral and park. I recently replaced the P/S pump & high pressure line and bled all the air out but still have the whining sound. You think it’s the torque converter ?
Hi Erick, I don’t believe the torque converter could cause the whining sound that you are hearing. However, we would suggest having a mechanic check out your car with an automotive stethoscope to locate the origin of the whining sound. I hope that helps.
My sprinter ae100 put new gear box run for 5mins n stop moving ...replace with new gear box bt still same problem now moving in reverse n front only in one gear ...dnt now the problem 😂
Hi JoeySk8z, Many things would cause a car not to move in drive. A failed torque converter is one possibility. Others could be, Front Pump failure, No or Low Transmission Fluid, Worn Clutches, or failed valve body. Thank you for your question.
The music overpowered your voice and ruined the video, thanks for the attempt though, great content without obnoxous band music in the background 💀 Some UA-cam channels just never, EVER, EVEEERRRRR, learn. They NEVER learn. EVER.
@@SummitRacing explain in an honest answer why carburetors are costing so much ? Especially the SUM-M08600VS. It is Summit name brand. Are you paying Holley for copy rights ? $355.49 ? Are you kidding ? Or is it that we have to pay for the new building in Sparks ? Ever since you put up that building, prices went up.
These 5 trouble shooting tips are only for torque converters, which are only used with Automatic transmissions. You may want to search the internet for answers to your vehicle specific questions.
Wait what.... You lost me at the 2:12 mark. "The lighter the vehicle, the lower the stall speed will end up being."... "Again, consider switching to a converter with a higher stall speed if you have a light vehicle." Well that is conflicting...
The music has to go
You are soooooooooooooooooo right
What's wrong with the music by'?
@@JoeRocket-sf6qs it is to loud and distracting, information vids should not be set up as entertainment vids, it made me shut it down.
You look so good
Or at least lower volume would be fine
Thank you very much! I just went from 3:27 gears to 4:10's and noticed I was shifting weird. Didn't even think about the converter! Great tips.
My crate engine manufacturer stated OEM to 1800. 302 HO style block. 367 hp at 5700 rpms, and 356 torque. Car is about 3400 lbs +/-. I've got a TCI which was 1700-1900 stall, and it feels like driving a manual car with a burnt up clutch. Car will not start moving until 1500-2000 rpm from a stop. It always feels like it's slipping. Rear axle is a TOTALLY redone 8 inch with posi, 31 spline axles, aluminum pinion support, nodular case and 3:25 gears. Trans builder checked out the transmission and says all is well, and the convertor HE bought for me feels too high. He builds racing transmissions and years of experience, so I figured he would know. I am about to pull my transmission and install a stock stall convertor and stock style flexplate. The SFI rated plate is too thick for the studs on the stock convertor, so it has to go.
My car is acting like it might have a failing torque converter. Slips a lot when engine and trans are cold, meaning the more throttle is put in the rpms keep going higher than they would if it was gripping properly. The car also loses the majority of its power under 3k rpm, and feels slightly underpowered in the higher rpms as well. VQ engine cars upon cold starts usually idle pretty high, and this car isn't doing it anymore... so I'm not sure if its something with the engine or the transmission. I have a feeling it's the torque converter but I'm not entirely sure.
There are a lot of variables at play, but it doesn't sound like a converter issue to me. If it is slipping when it is cold, then doesn't when it is warm, sounds like a bad band in the transmission or something else internal in the transmission. The issue of not idling the same sounds like it is engine related.
Also never put a 7.5 fuse in an empty fuse slot where your transmission control is. That brings on engine light and no lockup. Found that out when I put fuse thereTook it out the next day and everything was fine
I have a 2012 Chevy Express passenger van it's a 5.3 1LT AWD it has 250000 mostly Highway miles. The trans works great, the engine Burns zero oil and consumes no coolant.
I'm getting the code PO700 and p0741. Shortly after these codes appeared the van began to accelerate strangely. It did this when I first accelerated and right around 45mpr. it would lose power but then gained it again, it would do this several times before going back to its normal performance. I noticed that my RPMs would go down and then quickly up and down again while it was happening. I know this is all a Telltale sign that it's the torque converter. However there is something else happening that is strange. First when this was happening I turned on my tow/ haul button and all symptoms would go away. The fault codes would go away but then always come back as my vans computer system would run its Diagnostics . For the last two weeks I've been driving my van with the tow/haul button off and the van is performing normally, however the fault codes continue to turn off and on. I have had the torque converter checked by a professional transmission shop and they found that the slippage is minor, in fact they said and I have verified that my type of clutch converter is designed to slip a little bit. They recommend a whole new transmission but I know that it could be other things like a solenoid or the computer. The van is currently running perfectly it has no symptoms.
I had a old Cadillac engine swapped to a Oldsmobile on my 84 eldorado. The Oldsmobile engines came in some of the sister cars of this model so it would bolt right up.... Problem is after the swap the car has no torque when accelerating. Also seems like the rpms rev higher than the car goes. I thought it was a carb issue but looks like it may be something relating to this torque converter.....
Yeah just ran low on atf on my 01 grand am and every since I refilled it, I had no torque when acceterlating
I prefer a clutch over a torque converter to move my wheels up the road.
Who cares automatic faster
@@markmoire2058 yeah they're faster on the highway but who races on the highway when you can take it to the track?
@@rollingthunder1221 drag or road racing?
@@rollingthunder1221 automatics are king at the drag strip.
That’s why you’ll always be slower. Can’t outshift a computer..
I had put new torque converter seals on my transmission and it's still leaking. Any idea of what it could be or if I made a mistake.
Can you confirm that your example at time 2:19 was miss stated or the info about how the weight of the vehicle affect the selection of the stall speed was incorrect. Lighter vehicles would require lower stall speeds not higher. Thanks
I need help
My vechile shakes a little when in drive on break but will feel normal when in neutral or park
Hi. I drive a 2001 Hyundai Elantra 1.6 gls automatic transmission. Fuel consumption is about 21mpg. Acceleration is weak and I feel that there is too much spin on the torque converter during acceleration. Spin varies between 200 - 700 rpms under light acceleration and between 500-1200 under normal/medium acceleration. I feel Hyundai got it all wrong. Is it possible to adjust the torque converter to spin less and accelerate more?
I changed my valve body and solenoids on my truck, it only went in reverse. Now I have to shift up and down a few times to go forward. Do you have any idea what it might be? Thank you!
Need more information, but most. modern electronic transmissions have to be reprogrammed anytime a solenoid pack is replaced.
Hi Juan, We would suggest to check the transmission fluid level (This is done with the engine running, the transmission in Park, and the transmission at a warm temperature), also verify the shift cable is adjusted properly, and lastly you may want to check that the installation of the valve body and solenoids was performed correctly.
Also, if it's a newer Chrysler product the trans fluid is checked idling in neutral, not park.
@@SummitRacing I did all that. I am going to get more gas for the truck since I wasted most of it trying to get it to go forward. I drove about 10 miles, when I got home I tried to shift and I was back to where I started lol
I got it to go forward a few times
@@whitef250powerstroke it's a Ford
If the converter isn’t installed all the way would that make the transmission not go in to gear?
Nice video. Great information. I have a 1994 Ford e-250 5.8 with a E4OD transmission. The rear end differential was replaced and it has a different gear ratio than the original. I believe it has 3:73 wheeas the original was 4:10. The engine is stock no upgrades. Does anyone know what torque converter it would require? I carry close to 900 pounds daily. Also, I went to the dealership to inquire about a replacement transmission, and the man said there are two to choose from depending on the rear end gear ratio, Thank you.
I have a 1992 Subaru Legacy automatic. Every gear is forward.
R, it goes forward
N, it goes forward
D, it goes forward
3, it goes forward
2, it goes forward
1, it goes forward,
What did I do?
I don’t understand! This is my first time but I just rebuild the engine, replaced the valve body
Thanks for the tips
What is the proper fluid cooling for a transmission cooler ?
Hi, Many transmission coolers are rated by BTU (British Thermal Unit) A good operating temperature of an automatic transmission is 160º to 200º F as the fluid exits the cooler. If you can maintain fluid temperature below 175º F the fluid
should last for as much as 100,000 miles. Higher fluid temperatures drastically reduces the life of the fluid. Cooler temperature equals longer fluid life. Please see the following link for more helpful tech information from B&M. Thank you, static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/BMM-bm_cooler_techdoc.pdf
I know this is an old thread but I have an 88 f150 with the inline 6. Having problems with the motor jumping(shuddering) at low rpms. Could this be the torque converter? The truck had sit for about a year or so prior to me buying it so wondering I'd it just needs driven & given a good tune up maybe? Drives down the road at 30+ mph great. No loss of power, no slipping of gears, nothing else just jumps at slow speeds when accelerating
My 2010 Honda accord does it occasionally. But only when I’m under 30mph or slightly accelerating… been happening over a year now too.. I don’t want to take it to a shop until i know for sure
I have a 2014 Toyota Camry SE and I took it to a Toyota dealer and the replaced my torque converter due to a vibration. But when I got my car back The steering wheel was slightly misaligned with the wheels and my car was pulling to the right. could changing a torque converter affect the misalignment in the wheels?
Mazda fwd automatic that has lost drive suddenly. No slipping. But has reverse gear still. What could that be? Torque converter? Solenoid?
The guy that built my Transmission said that he had to spot weld a leak on the torque converter. What kind of problems can this cause?
Balance issues.
Would a tq converter problem make a car accelerate like its pulling a xtra load ?
On the G2704-10 model for my 4l60 transmission I I stalled and when mounting to flex plate noticed it had about a half inch gap from the mounting spot on the converter to flex plate which. Required longer bolts and also never seen a bit and bolt application style tourque converter how are they installed mine would not send any oil pressure and I changed it back to my stock converter it worked just fine so it's not my transmission
Hi Ricardo, Can you please give us a call? 1-330-230-3030
I have a skoda rapid 1.6 mpi AT
It doesnt change the gear and it moves very slowly like its in high gear
And it doesnt show which gear is on the display
I dont know whats the problem is
Don’t know if I have a torque converter issue maybe you can help out first thing I noticed when first start up of the dayI i lear a humming noise coming from the front of the transmission after the truck reaches operating temperature coming to a red light RPMs start going up and down and then up and then down and then drops to normal rpm readings at a red light is this a converter issue or is it something else
Thanks Frank
Summit racing. I have a original automatic transmission and sometimes when accelerating is shudders and doesn't want to go. And when I let off the throttle and reapply the throttle it goes just like it should. Could this be a torque converter or a shift solenoid?
Did you find out?
1980baldeagle i found out its the clutch pack for 1st and second gear
Hi Shawn,
Great video!
My 2015 Sienna is shuttering in reverse and feels really weak. I hear a whining noise that I thought was the tires until I got all new tires and the sound is still there. I have 115,000 miles on it and I did have the fluid power flushed by Toyota hoping that it would fix it.
Could it be my torque converter?
Thank you in advance for your time and consideration.
Eric
What if you have a huge turbo on a 3800 series 2 6 cyl engine? I’m installing a 3000 stall sp
Hi Earl,
Anytime you are adding excessive load from a power adder or dealing with issues that would arise relating to the extreme heat, as in turbo applications with long spooling times at the track, you should consider a converter equipped with an anti-balloon plate, billet front cover, and piston along with hardened internal parts like FTI Performance SRL or SRL-3 Series Billet Lockup Torque Converters.
I’m upgrading the transmission with a zzp hardened torc Converter input shaft. Zzp hardened axle output shaft...heavy duty clutch packs,...and stronger sprocket chain...I would do more but I’m over budget....and I already purchased the high stall speed zzp torc Converter,
I will most likely do 2 track runs” just to see the 1/4 mile times....I’m going to have to actually power break it to 3000 rpm before I takeoff....I think the torque converter can probably handle that since its a 3000 stall speed torque converter
I’m worry about the CV axle yolks the Pontiac Fiero axle yolks is all pot metal
Will a worn out Torque converter cause a 4L60E Transmission to slip at 70 mph?
Hello John,
At that speed, your converter should be in lock-up mode unless you're under heavy load or acceleration. Typically, a converter clutch will shutter if it is slipping. A bad lock-up solenoid or debris in the valve body can cause engagement problems as well. I would suggest inspecting your fluid closely for signs of overheating or contamination. The first approach may be a flush and a new filer service. Additionally, there are additives on the market to help with clutch conditioning.
www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/transmission-fluid-additives?ibanner=SREPD4
it handy tips what everyone needed you know
i personally hate automatic transmission this years because it gotta so worse to fix it n now part no longer available for any transmission to repairs ended up taking to transmission shop n they called back up n said this transmission is no longer to be repaired so it just gave on truck n junk it any vehicle under 98 is no longer be repaired
i still own Manuel transmission and still have issues trying find part for it
Year, make and model ?
Great video! I’m having some issues with knowing cam and horsepower first. I have a basic stock 451 Stroker with 4:10 gears. I purchased a 3200 stall. It was WONDERFUL for 3 days. Now I don’t have 2nd or 3rd gear. Had to drive home in low. Pulling everything out this weekend and sending trans back to rebuild shop. The car drove fine but different. I kept in low gear in neighborhoods, only launched it once hard. That was it. Not sure where or why I have failure. I machined down the flex plate bolts, was very careful followed careful instructions but still had problem. Wondering if my gear ratio is wrong? Any info would be much appreciated, thanks
Hi, thank you for the compliments on our video. It does sound like something in the transmission failed, but we would not expect the gear ratio or the torque converter to be directly related to the failure. To determine the correct gear ratio you will need to factor in the height of your rear tires. Here is a link to help calculate the correct gear ratio for the MPH and RPM desired in the final drive gear. www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/calcsandtools/gear-ratio-calculator
We hope this helps.
I put a 3700 3800 stall single disk lock up on my 2009 Silverado I have a cam 228r tsp , whenever I put it on reverse or drive it moves slowly I gotta step on the gas so it can move what can it be ?
My transmission has a pulsing shake to it slips when u put it in 2nd gear but not in drive
i've done a Alpina ggearbox flash on my F32 430d and notice that it shifts the gears quicker and the torque seems to have increased should i be concerned...?
Sorry, I didn't get the point at 2:13 - 2:23. You say the lighter the vehicle the lower the stall speed will end up being but you then go on to say your should go to a higher stall speed if you have a light vehicle. Probably my dumb but I don't get this part.
How come they replace the torque converter on 8 speed chevy colorados when the transmission shudders?
Based on what we have heard, the shudder is caused due to failure of the Torque Converter lock up clutch. We suggest visiting your local GM dealer for more information.
@@SummitRacing there full of bs they claim there no problem and a think a thicker transmission fluid sloves the case but the transmission are dying after 50k miles
I have one question? Why the converter stop when they begin to start the ingine
So my transmission isnt shifting out of 2nd gear. I changed all of the shift sensors and filter. Put it back together and now it won't shift out of first. Is the torque converter the problem?
It sounds like you have an internal transmission problem-possibly in the valve body. The issue is probably not related to your torque converter.
Can you help me my car genesis v8 i hear whining sound during full acceleration at high rpm whats the issue ???
You say put one quart of fluid in..is that all you put in?
So I installed the torque converter on my fly wheel 1st,funished the build and thought I had a starter problem. Click click click. So I went to problem solving and the motor was stuck. So I installed the tourqe converter wrong didn't I lol
Please make sure you installed the torque converter into the transmission first, then bolt the Transmission to the engine and lastly bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. You may want to carefully inspect the front pump of your transmission, hopefully nothing was damaged when the Engine was stuck.
So lets say my automatic car a 5r55s transmission i was 20mph cruising(1st gear still) i gassed it rpm reached first rev red line and i heard a noise and it never shifted to 2nd my car just went neutral. All my gears my car seems to act like its in neutral even reverse and drive 3,2,1 but when its on park my car does it job nd doesnt move it stayed locked in park ? What could be the issue ? I did a fluid change already nd it was dark brown fluid . Pls any info helps
Sounds like you have a serious problem with your transmission that will require inspection. I would recommend you find a reputable transmission shop inspect your issue.
So this videos title should be 5 torque converter "installation" issues.
My little mazda been,making a clicking sound at low rpm low throttle for 30k miles now. No leaks, no lights, new plugs, tested coils, trans drain and fill, exhast donut, checked for loose heat shields. Noise goes away in neutral :/ car drives fine, all fluids good and clean, serp belt good and clean, airbox good, throttle body clean, intake seals good, valve cover seal good. Im almost thinking loose catillitic converter material but my friend is emissions guy and my emissions are good and steady. I love this car but this one thing is driving me batty, 2009 mazda 6 base 4cly. Anyone got any ideas? Had this problem in mazda 6 or ford fusion?
Hi Mike,
We would suggest taking your vehicle to a reputable shop around your area so the clicking noise can be properly diagnosed. Depending upon where the noise is coming from, it could be the timing chain tensioner, a lifter, or something else.
@@SummitRacing yes, beginning to think its the timing chain tensioner. Too bad im a freak about oil changes, fluids, etc.
Mike Schiavoni try taking off the fan belt it may be the water pump
@@ianmccann6527 ill do that, its actually become intermitent in the last two weeks.
Same mike it only goes away in neutral
Good day. Can a bad torque converter cause a grinding sound when in reverse gear.
Hi, The torque converter is bolted to the engine and is always rotating in the same direction of the engine at engine speed no matter what gear the transmission is in. Usually if there is an issue with the torque converter, it will affect all of the gears and not just reverse. It seems like the grinding issue is either internally in your transmission or possibly something in your drive line. You may want to raise the vehicle off of the ground, with the vehicle safely supported, put it in reverse and listen underneath to locate the source of the noise.
What’s wrong if torque converter never clunks into place but seats all the way?
The "clunk" is the sound a converter usually makes as it completes its final seating into the transmission pump but may not always be easily detected. Continuously monitor the converter as you are bolting up a transmission, making sure it freely spins as the transmission is drawn up to the engine. If the converter binds, stop and recheck the converter engagement. Damage can occur to a pump if the converter is not seated all the way and the transmission bolted up all the way.
If the converter's correctly installed, there should be a small amount of in-and-out play between the converter and the flexplate with the transmission bolted up.
@@SummitRacing hi, I had a transmission replaced last year. After it was put in it randomly does a clunk/thunk uphill or under load. This happens about 25% of the time and more often on long trips. Could that be a torque converter issue?
Hi guys , kia spectra 2004 after change gearbox now all gear go forward no revers
All bad news for me. After 4 years i still havnt found out where a ticking noise is comming from, I've got a bad back so taking the trans in and out is a no go for me, sux I just want to drive my joy again 😪 I hope it's my flex plate, I don't think it was aligned correctly.
Don't listen to mates if your in doubt! Sit on it, do your research, call shops.
I lost all my friends and down a car at the worst time of my life having a permanent injury and moving to a place I don't know just so I can afford to keep my pride and joy registered at least...
One day though I'll win the lottory! 😉
HULKGQ Nissan Patrol don’t lose hope man I’m on the same road just dropped a new motor on mine and my transmission dipstick started spitting out transmission oil
The bolts that hold converter to flex may be too thick. Easy fix. Take off access plate and look to see if your bolts are hitting block or cover. Mine were hitting making awful ticking noise. Took off bolts one at a time, ground of about an with of and inch, added loc tight and was done in 1 hr. Hope this helps...
Possible cracked flex plate
What's the difference between an oldsmobile and chevy converter
The attachment to the flexplate is the difference. The Oldsmobile torque converter uses bolts that thread directly into the mounting pads while a Chevy torque converter uses nuts and bolts through its brackets.
Not alot they both pure scrap
I can’t wait too manual swap my car
Handy tips👍🏻
Thank you for watching!
Can i use a v6 gearbox on a 2.5turbo enginé?
Hello Justin,
We would need more information on your application. The compatibility would come down to engine/gearbox bolt pattern, flywheel size, and spacing. Many companies offer adapters for popular applications. Another thing to consider is gearbox ratios. Depending on the application, ratios could differ considerably, affecting performance.
Hey Summit, hope all is well. My 2007 Honda Accord A/T has a whining sound that exists in all gears but much more noticeable in neutral and park. I recently replaced the P/S pump & high pressure line and bled all the air out but still have the whining sound. You think it’s the torque converter ?
Hi Erick,
I don’t believe the torque converter could cause the whining sound that you are hearing. However, we would suggest having a mechanic check out your car with an automotive stethoscope to locate the origin of the whining sound.
I hope that helps.
Good show!
Thanks for watching, Jason!
I’m looking at you GM 😡😡😡😡
I wish mechanics from aamco orange watch this video, in almost 2 years can not fix my transmission in my Chevy tracker 1998. I really need help.
Might want to look up Precision Transmission's youtube channel!
I have a question
My sprinter ae100 put new gear box run for 5mins n stop moving ...replace with new gear box bt still same problem now moving in reverse n front only in one gear ...dnt now the problem 😂
I learned don't waste your time with anything bigger than 10 converter. !
Would a Converter cause a car not to move in drive?
Definitely.... If it is failing or has already failed. The converter transmit power from the the engine to the transmission.
Hi JoeySk8z,
Many things would cause a car not to move in drive. A failed torque converter is one possibility. Others could be, Front Pump failure, No or Low Transmission Fluid, Worn Clutches, or failed valve body.
Thank you for your question.
now i'm confused.
Hi Gary, we are sorry you are confused. Do you have any specific questions?
The music overpowered your voice and ruined the video, thanks for the attempt though, great content without obnoxous band music in the background 💀 Some UA-cam channels just never, EVER, EVEEERRRRR, learn. They NEVER learn. EVER.
The music is for late baby boomer and gen x I'd do better listening to that on hold ordering a part
Bmw get me here...
Personality. I don't trust any tech from Scumit.
Hi Jesse, We are sorry you feel that way.
@@SummitRacing explain in an honest answer why carburetors are costing so much ?
Especially the SUM-M08600VS. It is Summit name brand. Are you paying Holley for copy rights ? $355.49 ? Are you kidding ?
Or is it that we have to pay for the new building in Sparks ? Ever since you put up that building, prices went up.
.how to avoid them
Me: be a man and manual swap it.
Would that work in newer vehicles? I'm considering swapping mine for 6 speed stick like my old yota. I just don't know alot about electronics
These 5 trouble shooting tips are only for torque converters, which are only used with Automatic transmissions. You may want to search the internet for answers to your vehicle specific questions.
It's not as simple to manual swap on a newer vehicle.
Automatics are faster
The music horrible I stop watching in 2 minutes
Wait what.... You lost me at the 2:12 mark.
"The lighter the vehicle, the lower the stall speed will end up being."... "Again, consider switching to a converter with a higher stall speed if you have a light vehicle."
Well that is conflicting...
Same... I don't get it. Did he misspeak? I would think the first part is correct and the second part is misspoken? Can someone chime in please?