One of the things you can do to help with getting the baseline started... set the desired idle to say 1200rpm... this will allow you to get the engine running and trim up the AFR... then you can work on triming down the idle to regular rpm levels
bro i just bought a 90 mx-5 just because of all the info about them in your channel, keep it up and I'm currently doing the broke & boosted on my miata following your videos and I'm paying close attention to all the details you gave me 🖒
The differences for why it will or won't start are different tolerances in the engine and environmental differences like air temp, density, humidity, etc. could be a base tune for a high or low altitude.
It amazes me how many people run the standard dashboards. I have custom dashboards for several tuning purposes that give me data that is important to the task at hand. I'll send you some samples.
I have a full custom one, I just ran the "standard" one for these videos so it didn't look as crazy to the people running the free version without Designer Mode. My real one is all riced out, hahaha
I got my closed loop idle settings pretty much perfect pretty easy, a buddy showed me the idle valve test you can run on megasquit and you just open the valve all the way, and then close it all the way. then enter the values in the open/closed duty idle settings. i still need to blip the throttle to get it started, but starts right up after that. cold starts at about 1400 and then idles warm at 800-900rpm
Swap in a high volume fuel pump, start running E85... and trim up that ignition timing ;) I'll be creating some videos doing the same thing with this on my NB but with the AEM EMS4 setup
this was such a good video, i feel like it could have gone like twice as long, im sure if you look at your audience retention on this video it will be really good.
Greg - I'm a little apprehensive about installing and running my MSM megasquirt, mainly because I drive the car 170 miles a day. I DID hook it up to make sure it works and I didn't get ripped off on ebay, and it worked. Do you think that I could safely run the megasquirt base map that is pre-loaded. this megasquirt is PNP and is SPECIFICALLY for the mazdaspeed miata.
Greetings ever try that? I'm looking to just add flat foot shifting but not sure if the base map will ride rough or not idle as others have mentioned. Been looking at supermiatas base maps.
Oh for future whoever - i have an nb2 that is basically stock. I had to set the trigger offset in ignition to +8.0 from the +2.0 of the DIYAutotune basemap to get the car to start properly. This also got the base timing to line up properly. Actually quick question, @carpassionchannel. When you are using a timing light is it normal for the ticks on the timing wheel to "move around" a small amount? For example I have the yellow tick on "10" but really it sort of flutters just a little above and below 10 when in fixed timing mode.
You went 0-100 in this vid! Step 1 load base map, step 2 closed loop idle? There is like 20 things that should be done before someone dables with closed loop idle (like tuning your afr around idle!)
Hey @carpassionchannel - I did a 1000cc injector upgrade and having trouble with start up. I used the req fuel change but I'm getting a lot of back fire and the car wont stay on. Should I just slowly reduce the req fuel number until it seems to stabilize? The tune was just a base nat aspirated tune that ran normal before injectors.
Sup Alex! I have actually not found any for 3.4, but the base map I'm running in this video is a 3.3 map on an MS2 with 3.4 firmware and it works just fine. It will give you a mismatch warning when you load it, but I just hit accept and it loaded just fine. Sometimes there will be a conflict here or there with two different settings trying to utilize the same pinout on the ECU, but that's usually easy to solve by browsing the menus to see what settings are using what pins.
You got some good videos. Thanks for all the info. Would this work on any ECU or would I have to get a piggie back ECU? I don't know too much about the remapping but I have flash ECU before. Thanks again 👍
Good stuff, brother! I've been running diypnp for quite some time on my 95 Probe GT (Mazda KLDE motor) boosted & n/a. Currently just having issues with my inline external Walbro 255 fuel pump during high temperature driving... go figure... 😒
just installed a megasquirt on my nb, but for some reason I cant get my computer to connect to the ecu, what do i need to download to get it running? I bought it second hand so i dont have any guides or instructions...In need of some help here, thanks
Hi. If i change my injectors for run on E85 ( only E85 ) I don't need to change idle require fuel ? example in MB 1.8 140 injector size is 260 red top. If i put mazda 323 gtx injectors ( 370cc black top ) i have 42.3% up fuel flow and in theory i can run on base map safe. Sorry for my english i'm French lol.
If anyone is interested in tuning super EZ, and pretty cheap, check out any Apexi SAFC's, I run one on my 240 with larger injectors, its just a piggyback, but it works for most average boosters, you can mess with afr's and such.
When you click (or keyboard shortcut) regular old "save" it puts a snapshot of that tune in your "restore points" folder. This may be a feature for registered users but it saves you having to name the file manually. I will say notes or custom file names help if you are testing something specifically however.
please help me i installed my wideband hooked it up with tunerstudio, istalled my iat sensor, tried running basmaps and changins somwthing in TS but i cabt get car to start i really need some help
Hi mate I'm in New Zealand I have a mega squirt it's 2016 I'm fiting into m104 mercedes can you help with a video of firt set up and start thanks isidro
First of all thank you for making this series and giving me the courage to megasquirt my car. Unfortunately my stock 1.8 miata will not run after the physical install of MS on the base tune. Car will start up but sputters and dies after a few seconds of running rough. Rich fuel smell is present after it shuts off. Afr bounces between 11 and 16 with the reading in TunerStudio being about 0.5 above what is on the gauge (MTXL grounded to throttle body post). I have followed your tutorial to the T and am about to start trying different setting in idle control to see if I can get it to stay running. I honestly have no idea where to begin. Any tips on where to start first?
Base map is the correct specified one for my model straight from the diyautotune site although I could only find the map for the 3.3.1 firmware while I have the latest 3.4 firmware - forum posts suggest it should still work despite it outputting errors when I load it. I have changed the VE tables slightly but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference as the idle and afm still rise and fall. Car behaves like the MAF/AFM is unplugged on a stock ecu. Starts right up but struggles to idle and won't run for more than a few seconds.
I'm sure it is. It's the GM sensor that came with the unit wired just like the instructions say on the MS site. Tuner studio appears to be reading the same temp thats in my garage so I assume it's working. I have also recalibrated it with the voltage values from the MS site. After researching on where to start I found a few articles detailing how to tune your idle from scratch by adjusting PWM settings with the IAC disconnected and then fine tuning your IAC to work from there.
When you talk about Megasquirt, do you mean Megasquirt or I, II, or III? Or can this apply to all of them? What do you suggest for someone who wants to go cheap? (like who doesn't?)
Did a search and DUH Saw you were using Megasquirt 2 PNP... let me change my question. I see the ones on Ebay that say they are for a Miata are twice the price of those who don't say that. Is that marketing or is that an issue. Thanks for what you do, your channel is the best.
My MS2PnP was $850 with USB-Serial adaptor and AIT kit. You can build the DIY versions along with your own adaptor harness for much less. Many of the things I'm covering will be the same for MS1, 2, and 3, but the menus might look different or use different wording.
I have 1.6 miata with a 1.8 (1995) swap, the ECU is still 1.6's. Which version of the MS PNP2 should I purchase? It seems that at least on 949racing's site, they need you to specify the version: 90-93, 94-95 or 96-97.
I think the year selection depends on the wiring harness of the car. So if your car was originally a 1.6, get the 90-93 one because all your wires and sensors are with that harness. The only exception for this would be if you put in a 1.8 VVT engine where you might have had to do a lot of custom wiring or something, in which you might have to build your own setup and not use the PNP version.
So what you're saying is I need to put the idle on closed loop if the open loop idle control is too messy? Mine has been idling at about 1k rpm (I know it's too high) for a couple of months now using open loop. I was kinda afraid to use closed loop since I read it's impossible to tune on miataturbo.net. I'm going to be trying this as soon as my car is roadworthy again, which probably is when the turbo is installed! :D Also, completely unrelated, but my car once in a while goes really rich (AFR 9.0) or really lean (AFR 17.0-19.0) at random since I installed my rx8 (420cc) injectors. Neither the autotune or the EGO control are active at these times. At these times it also feels like it's running on 3 cylinders, can running on 3 cylinders cause a false AFR reading, because if that's the case I'll change my spark plugs. (wires are already pretty new, like 3000 miles old) Any idea what it can be? Oh and btw, these videos are right on time since my turbo is gonna be bolted on there (hopefully) somewhere next week so the margin of error is going to be a lot smaller :P
It can't hurt to try tuning closed loop, worst case scenario you switch back right? The things I talk about are all just my personal experience, they may not work for everyone. Yes running on 3 cylinders will throw off your AFR's, I'd get that issue fixed before trying to compensate with fuel tuning. Ignition coils maybe? Make sure all the injector plugs have a good connection as well.
Closed loop operation... this allows the computer to add in the o2's output into the fuel calculation. The reason they tell people it's "impossible" to tune is because the computer is adjusting itself to compensate against what you have specified in open loop operation. When you're making adjustments to the fuel tables... you don't want to be fighting against the ECU trying to correct you. Turn off your closed loop, set your desired idle to 1200 rpm (if you're having problems getting it to run long enough to get to operating temp), once the engine is warm, trim your fuel tables up or down for the desired AFR, and then slowly work the desired idle rpm down to where the engine feels comfortable idling. Also... this is a GREAT time to verify you don't have any vacuum leaks post MAF.
seth alton I assume this is just some "general information"? I'm personally not running the MAF anymore and my fuel tables are just fine, also my engine runs fine apart from the aforementioned rich/lean spikes and a somewhat unstable idle
Yep... general info. You'll still want to tune with closed loop disabled as the computer is going to try and adjust to try and meet your requested fuel (primary o2 sensor or wideband). I'm assuming you've set your requested idle speed to something like 800rpm. Whats the timing set to for low load/tps?
I installed an ms2 on my NB 1.8 (140hp) full stock. Everything is fine the car runs fine but the tachometer in not working at all. Though, the rpm on the tuner studio works perfectly. Any idea on that problem? 😄
I'm vaguely remembering something specific about 1995.5 and newer Miatas running MS2 and needing the "tach out" activated. Possibly a jumper on the board of the ECU or just settings in Tuner Studio. If you search "1995.5 tach out" or "tacho out" you should find some info
My 1.6 idles around 2100 rpm, with everything you've covered (wideband, iat, map, injectors, timing etc). By putting my thumb over the air intake tube running to the iacv, the idle drops down and I can manipulate it to idle perfectly. None of the settings for idle control seem to have any effect whatsoever (I powercycle, and have tried CAN bus testing). Is my iacv busted? Car ran fine on stock ecu
Start off by checking for vacuum leaks. Let the engine warm, then while idling, start spraying shots of starter fluid around the intake, fuel injectors, vacuum lines (on my 1.8, there are a couple that are easy to miss). Double check that the TB adjustment screw hasn't been screwed with. The only thing that screw is supposed to be used for is to stop the TB plate from getting stuck inside the housing. Some people think this is how you're supposed to adjust the idle (wrong)
Can you install megasquirt on a miata with a swapped transmission? I swapped my 92 from AT to MT and overrode the clutch safety switch at the transmission + removed the AT computer from under the dash. Would that cause any issues with MS?
My miata is an AT to MT swap with megasquirt installed. I also have my starter interlock switch connected to the neutral switch on the transmission. Everything works perfect. The only thing I have come across that is messed up due to the car having an auto wiring harness is that the brake light in the instrument cluster will always be on due to the megasquirt's way of powering the fuel pump. To stop that, you need to cut the violet wire going in to the back of your instrument cluster. The only purpose of that violet wire (at least at the back of the cluster) is to power the brake light during starter operation as a bulb check. If you decide not to cut it, the light will be on any time the fuel pump is running.
+Beau C alright cool thanks for responding. if I cut the wire you're refering too will that prevent the brake light from coming on when the emergency brake is engaged as well or just keep it from coming on when the fuel pump is on?
No, the brake light will work just as intended with the violet wire cut. Mine comes on if I pull the e-brake handle up, and if I push down the float for the master cylinder level switch. If you look at a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster, the brake light has three different sources that could light it. Cutting the violet wire just removes one of them.
@@msmmaze Greetings Meysam sm, sorry to necro an old comment/reply, but what software did you use? I hear about too many people having a rough ride and no idle after using the MS base tune, I just want to utilize flat foot shift via MS, but want the MS ecu to act like the oem one for the most part.
@@treerexaudi Hey buddy. I used TunerStudio to do things. I had my hands on the original basemap, tried to make a basemap according to that as an starting point and tuned on the road using autotune and wideband.
TheCarPassionChannel True. I'm actually just now learning about ECU tuning, so this is helping me. I have a '07 Civic sedan (non-Si) with bolt ons and Flashpro. Vit Viper is doing the tune for me since I'm still green on adjusting parameters and stuff.
TheCarPassionChannel awesome. I can't remember what laptop I set it up for the last time I connected (a few years back) I just remember it being awkward, I've since moddified the ecu to work with a different engine so I need to reset everything, I'm such a noob but I'm glad it works with Windows 10 thanks guys
Greetings, ever get it figured out? I hear this is a common issue and I have no tuners around to tune my car. Hearing base maps aren't good for driving around.
The first thing you do is set up 2 step
One of the things you can do to help with getting the baseline started... set the desired idle to say 1200rpm... this will allow you to get the engine running and trim up the AFR... then you can work on triming down the idle to regular rpm levels
Thank you, this was very helpful because for a lot of the guides online the pictures are no longer there
Yea I'm having that same issue a lot of guided are outdated and old with dead links 😕
Thank you so much for doing this series. "Broke and Boosted" is broke no more, but this was the next step.
Keep these video coming! I'm I the process of boosting my 97 this month and these megasquirt tutorials are a life saver
By far some of the best megasquirt tuning process video on youtube.
Greg...THANK YOU for making this series.
bro i just bought a 90 mx-5 just because of all the info about them in your channel, keep it up and I'm currently doing the broke & boosted on my miata following your videos and I'm paying close attention to all the details you gave me 🖒
Just finished boosting my own red 92 with the help from the broke and boosted videos. Made a great car even better! Thanks Greg
Awesome to hear!
Nice simple start. More on closed loop and PID tuning please!
The differences for why it will or won't start are different tolerances in the engine and environmental differences like air temp, density, humidity, etc. could be a base tune for a high or low altitude.
great stuff! I look forward to this season of videos!
Nice! Super interesting. Can't wait for the rest of the series.
awesome greg!! iv needed someone like this for ages
It amazes me how many people run the standard dashboards. I have custom dashboards for several tuning purposes that give me data that is important to the task at hand. I'll send you some samples.
I have a full custom one, I just ran the "standard" one for these videos so it didn't look as crazy to the people running the free version without Designer Mode. My real one is all riced out, hahaha
Great vid. Short and sweet. Love it.
Man, great videos. Thanks for taking the time to share all this info. Wish i had a bigger mod budget my my miata.
Effing awesome!!! keep up the good quality videos.
in open loop idle, adjust the IAC stepper duty to control the air wrt coolant temp
I got my closed loop idle settings pretty much perfect pretty easy, a buddy showed me the idle valve test you can run on megasquit and you just open the valve all the way, and then close it all the way. then enter the values in the open/closed duty idle settings. i still need to blip the throttle to get it started, but starts right up after that. cold starts at about 1400 and then idles warm at 800-900rpm
more infoooo
needs more E85
Plenty to come. Specific suggestions?
Swap in a high volume fuel pump, start running E85... and trim up that ignition timing ;) I'll be creating some videos doing the same thing with this on my NB but with the AEM EMS4 setup
this was such a good video, i feel like it could have gone like twice as long, im sure if you look at your audience retention on this video it will be really good.
I'm pretty basic as far as Megasquirt, so just some fuel mapping and timing how-to's and what to do after you boost your engine or add nitrous.
good info, still relevant. i even smashed that subscribe button. lol thanks for your time.
Greg - I'm a little apprehensive about installing and running my MSM megasquirt, mainly because I drive the car 170 miles a day. I DID hook it up to make sure it works and I didn't get ripped off on ebay, and it worked. Do you think that I could safely run the megasquirt base map that is pre-loaded. this megasquirt is PNP and is SPECIFICALLY for the mazdaspeed miata.
oh, also the only mod I've done so far is the Flyin Miata intake kit
Greetings ever try that? I'm looking to just add flat foot shifting but not sure if the base map will ride rough or not idle as others have mentioned. Been looking at supermiatas base maps.
What's it like going from bandaids to the ms?
So......good..............................highly recommend, lol.
Hey @carpassionchannel - i just installed my ms3pro pnp on an nb2 using your channel's help!
Oh for future whoever - i have an nb2 that is basically stock. I had to set the trigger offset in ignition to +8.0 from the +2.0 of the DIYAutotune basemap to get the car to start properly. This also got the base timing to line up properly. Actually quick question, @carpassionchannel. When you are using a timing light is it normal for the ticks on the timing wheel to "move around" a small amount? For example I have the yellow tick on "10" but really it sort of flutters just a little above and below 10 when in fixed timing mode.
Spoon feeding! Love it on this technical crap. And I'm hungry.
already watched the cars on board video...lol
You went 0-100 in this vid! Step 1 load base map, step 2 closed loop idle? There is like 20 things that should be done before someone dables with closed loop idle (like tuning your afr around idle!)
Hey @carpassionchannel - I did a 1000cc injector upgrade and having trouble with start up. I used the req fuel change but I'm getting a lot of back fire and the car wont stay on. Should I just slowly reduce the req fuel number until it seems to stabilize? The tune was just a base nat aspirated tune that ran normal before injectors.
big question. where do you find a basemap for ms2 3.4 ?
Sup Alex! I have actually not found any for 3.4, but the base map I'm running in this video is a 3.3 map on an MS2 with 3.4 firmware and it works just fine. It will give you a mismatch warning when you load it, but I just hit accept and it loaded just fine. Sometimes there will be a conflict here or there with two different settings trying to utilize the same pinout on the ECU, but that's usually easy to solve by browsing the menus to see what settings are using what pins.
+TheCarPassionChannel thanks greg. my car will be boosting eventually lol
hell ya greg good shit man
You got some good videos. Thanks for all the info. Would this work on any ECU or would I have to get a piggie back ECU? I don't know too much about the remapping but I have flash ECU before.
Thanks again 👍
Please, some info for vvti ? I know that for Toyota but couldn't find ant info
Good stuff, brother! I've been running diypnp for quite some time on my 95 Probe GT (Mazda KLDE motor) boosted & n/a. Currently just having issues with my inline external Walbro 255 fuel pump during high temperature driving... go figure... 😒
just installed a megasquirt on my nb, but for some reason I cant get my computer to connect to the ecu, what do i need to download to get it running? I bought it second hand so i dont have any guides or instructions...In need of some help here, thanks
FBM Bikes?!? So many car people are BMX people. So wild.
Hi.
If i change my injectors for run on E85 ( only E85 )
I don't need to change idle require fuel ?
example in MB 1.8 140 injector size is 260 red top. If i put mazda 323 gtx injectors ( 370cc black top ) i have 42.3% up fuel flow and in theory i can run on base map safe.
Sorry for my english i'm French lol.
If anyone is interested in tuning super EZ, and pretty cheap, check out any Apexi SAFC's, I run one on my 240 with larger injectors, its just a piggyback, but it works for most average boosters, you can mess with afr's and such.
When you click (or keyboard shortcut) regular old "save" it puts a snapshot of that tune in your "restore points" folder. This may be a feature for registered users but it saves you having to name the file manually. I will say notes or custom file names help if you are testing something specifically however.
now that Broke and boosted isn't limited to a budget and you get to spend endless amount of money on it. it should be called Boosted and broke
I'm just missing one essential part of that plan, endless money lmao.
this is what rudnik from ricer miata needs to do
please help me i installed my wideband hooked it up with tunerstudio, istalled my iat sensor, tried running basmaps and changins somwthing in TS but i cabt get car to start i really need some help
Hello,
How you connect on ECU to remap? Are you connect on OBD in your car or ? What INTERFACE you use to conect to ECO of your car?
B.R.
Thank you
Running 3.4.2 diyautotune base map 3.3.0 throws me a bunch of errors and says settings configuration error
Where can I get a basemap for my ‘98 Jeep wrangler 4.0?
Do you ever get a signatures don’t match error. I was chasing my tail and downgrading firmware yesterday, really irritating. How do you solve this ?
Start a new tuner studio project. Be sure to save a copy of your tune beforehand just in case
Hi mate I'm in New Zealand I have a mega squirt it's 2016
I'm fiting into m104 mercedes can you help with a video of firt set up and start thanks isidro
Can you do a blow off valve install and a coolant re route video thanks!
First of all thank you for making this series and giving me the courage to megasquirt my car.
Unfortunately my stock 1.8 miata will not run after the physical install of MS on the base tune. Car will start up but sputters and dies after a few seconds of running rough. Rich fuel smell is present after it shuts off. Afr bounces between 11 and 16 with the reading in TunerStudio being about 0.5 above what is on the gauge (MTXL grounded to throttle body post).
I have followed your tutorial to the T and am about to start trying different setting in idle control to see if I can get it to stay running. I honestly have no idea where to begin. Any tips on where to start first?
Yes if it's running super rich, lower the values on the VE table in the idle area for starters. Are you sure the base map is correct?
Base map is the correct specified one for my model straight from the diyautotune site although I could only find the map for the 3.3.1 firmware while I have the latest 3.4 firmware - forum posts suggest it should still work despite it outputting errors when I load it.
I have changed the VE tables slightly but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference as the idle and afm still rise and fall. Car behaves like the MAF/AFM is unplugged on a stock ecu. Starts right up but struggles to idle and won't run for more than a few seconds.
The IAT sensor is hooked up correctly? (That may be different for a 1.8 car compared to my videos)
I'm sure it is. It's the GM sensor that came with the unit wired just like the instructions say on the MS site. Tuner studio appears to be reading the same temp thats in my garage so I assume it's working. I have also recalibrated it with the voltage values from the MS site.
After researching on where to start I found a few articles detailing how to tune your idle from scratch by adjusting PWM settings with the IAC disconnected and then fine tuning your IAC to work from there.
Would you recommend going MS before boosting to gain familiarity with the program before major damage from boost could happen?
yesyesyesyes x1000
ciao sono un italiano posso sapere come regolare il limitatore ? cioe come regolare i giri motore grazie
When you talk about Megasquirt, do you mean Megasquirt or I, II, or III? Or can this apply to all of them?
What do you suggest for someone who wants to go cheap? (like who doesn't?)
Did a search and DUH Saw you were using Megasquirt 2 PNP... let me change my question. I see the ones on Ebay that say they are for a Miata are twice the price of those who don't say that. Is that marketing or is that an issue.
Thanks for what you do, your channel is the best.
My MS2PnP was $850 with USB-Serial adaptor and AIT kit. You can build the DIY versions along with your own adaptor harness for much less. Many of the things I'm covering will be the same for MS1, 2, and 3, but the menus might look different or use different wording.
I'll be following you and dropping bomblets on differences for the AEM EMS4 setup (since that's what I am running).
Does anyone have these in a playlist in order? It's super hard to follow on mobile.
I have 1.6 miata with a 1.8 (1995) swap, the ECU is still 1.6's. Which version of the MS PNP2 should I purchase? It seems that at least on 949racing's site, they need you to specify the version: 90-93, 94-95 or 96-97.
I think the year selection depends on the wiring harness of the car. So if your car was originally a 1.6, get the 90-93 one because all your wires and sensors are with that harness. The only exception for this would be if you put in a 1.8 VVT engine where you might have had to do a lot of custom wiring or something, in which you might have to build your own setup and not use the PNP version.
Yeah Beau is right, MS2PnP can run any Miata engine except the 01+ VVT. It can actually run that engine, just not the VVT part.
Good to know... I was starting to wonder why I bought the AEM EMS-4 with all it's headaches... good thing I can control the VVT with it ;)
So what you're saying is I need to put the idle on closed loop if the open loop idle control is too messy? Mine has been idling at about 1k rpm (I know it's too high) for a couple of months now using open loop. I was kinda afraid to use closed loop since I read it's impossible to tune on miataturbo.net. I'm going to be trying this as soon as my car is roadworthy again, which probably is when the turbo is installed! :D
Also, completely unrelated, but my car once in a while goes really rich (AFR 9.0) or really lean (AFR 17.0-19.0) at random since I installed my rx8 (420cc) injectors. Neither the autotune or the EGO control are active at these times. At these times it also feels like it's running on 3 cylinders, can running on 3 cylinders cause a false AFR reading, because if that's the case I'll change my spark plugs. (wires are already pretty new, like 3000 miles old) Any idea what it can be?
Oh and btw, these videos are right on time since my turbo is gonna be bolted on there (hopefully) somewhere next week so the margin of error is going to be a lot smaller :P
It can't hurt to try tuning closed loop, worst case scenario you switch back right? The things I talk about are all just my personal experience, they may not work for everyone. Yes running on 3 cylinders will throw off your AFR's, I'd get that issue fixed before trying to compensate with fuel tuning. Ignition coils maybe? Make sure all the injector plugs have a good connection as well.
Closed loop operation... this allows the computer to add in the o2's output into the fuel calculation. The reason they tell people it's "impossible" to tune is because the computer is adjusting itself to compensate against what you have specified in open loop operation. When you're making adjustments to the fuel tables... you don't want to be fighting against the ECU trying to correct you.
Turn off your closed loop, set your desired idle to 1200 rpm (if you're having problems getting it to run long enough to get to operating temp), once the engine is warm, trim your fuel tables up or down for the desired AFR, and then slowly work the desired idle rpm down to where the engine feels comfortable idling. Also... this is a GREAT time to verify you don't have any vacuum leaks post MAF.
seth alton I assume this is just some "general information"? I'm personally not running the MAF anymore and my fuel tables are just fine, also my engine runs fine apart from the aforementioned rich/lean spikes and a somewhat unstable idle
Yep... general info. You'll still want to tune with closed loop disabled as the computer is going to try and adjust to try and meet your requested fuel (primary o2 sensor or wideband). I'm assuming you've set your requested idle speed to something like 800rpm. Whats the timing set to for low load/tps?
I installed an ms2 on my NB 1.8 (140hp) full stock. Everything is fine the car runs fine but the tachometer in not working at all. Though, the rpm on the tuner studio works perfectly. Any idea on that problem? 😄
I'm vaguely remembering something specific about 1995.5 and newer Miatas running MS2 and needing the "tach out" activated. Possibly a jumper on the board of the ECU or just settings in Tuner Studio. If you search "1995.5 tach out" or "tacho out" you should find some info
My 1.6 idles around 2100 rpm, with everything you've covered (wideband, iat, map, injectors, timing etc). By putting my thumb over the air intake tube running to the iacv, the idle drops down and I can manipulate it to idle perfectly. None of the settings for idle control seem to have any effect whatsoever (I powercycle, and have tried CAN bus testing). Is my iacv busted? Car ran fine on stock ecu
Does it change when you put the car in gear with the clutch in? Or just 2100 all the time?
All the time. I can hear the air running through the iac. Unplugging the iac plug causes the car to stall/not start.
What about stone cold vs warmed up? Still 2100 all the time?
No change sadly. When I figure it out, I'll report back.
Start off by checking for vacuum leaks. Let the engine warm, then while idling, start spraying shots of starter fluid around the intake, fuel injectors, vacuum lines (on my 1.8, there are a couple that are easy to miss). Double check that the TB adjustment screw hasn't been screwed with. The only thing that screw is supposed to be used for is to stop the TB plate from getting stuck inside the housing. Some people think this is how you're supposed to adjust the idle (wrong)
The name of the program?
Lol let's see if it idles. "Cold start" Oil pressure indicating the car has already been running a while :p
I need a base startup tune for my 91 Turbo Miata. 550cc injectors.
Hey I have a question about the calculate required fuel my car is running 365cc so I want to know what I need to input ?
AE86 PascalCasimir What's the stock injector size on your engine?
Can you install megasquirt on a miata with a swapped transmission? I swapped my 92 from AT to MT and overrode the clutch safety switch at the transmission + removed the AT computer from under the dash. Would that cause any issues with MS?
My miata is an AT to MT swap with megasquirt installed. I also have my starter interlock switch connected to the neutral switch on the transmission. Everything works perfect. The only thing I have come across that is messed up due to the car having an auto wiring harness is that the brake light in the instrument cluster will always be on due to the megasquirt's way of powering the fuel pump. To stop that, you need to cut the violet wire going in to the back of your instrument cluster. The only purpose of that violet wire (at least at the back of the cluster) is to power the brake light during starter operation as a bulb check. If you decide not to cut it, the light will be on any time the fuel pump is running.
+Beau C alright cool thanks for responding. if I cut the wire you're refering too will that prevent the brake light from coming on when the emergency brake is engaged as well or just keep it from coming on when the fuel pump is on?
No, the brake light will work just as intended with the violet wire cut. Mine comes on if I pull the e-brake handle up, and if I push down the float for the master cylinder level switch. If you look at a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster, the brake light has three different sources that could light it. Cutting the violet wire just removes one of them.
99 miata nb1. Ms2pnp. Turbo. Ait sensor. Everything else stock and the basemap will not start
Do you need to use closed loop idle to use AC?
sugoi yes
So I have a stock Miata if I get mega squirt will it give me more power
If you install MS, delete the AFM, and get it tuned on a dyno; it will make more power. Simply installing MS will not add any power.
beforeImesseditallup. 😂😂😂
what if we cant find a basemap? how can we get one? especially AFR table. I have a honda accord f22a1 sohc vtec engine
You can either use someone else's map as a base starting point who has a very similar setup, have a tuner make one, or learn to do it yourself 🙂
@@TheCarPassionChannel Yeah I could not find anything online or locally, I generated one using softwares and have been using it. Thanks
@@msmmaze Greetings Meysam sm, sorry to necro an old comment/reply, but what software did you use? I hear about too many people having a rough ride and no idle after using the MS base tune, I just want to utilize flat foot shift via MS, but want the MS ecu to act like the oem one for the most part.
@@treerexaudi Hey buddy. I used TunerStudio to do things. I had my hands on the original basemap, tried to make a basemap according to that as an starting point and tuned on the road using autotune and wideband.
@@msmmaze Thanks a bunch for the info!
Are you using the V2 pnp?
Yes MS2PnP with 3.4.1 firmware
TheCarPassionChannel thanks so much ☺️
How do I load base map?
In Tuner Studio: File -> Load Tune, then select the map from your computer
Wow.
Is that a good wow? Bad wow?
TheCarPassionChannel It's good; trust me. Really, I am just amazed at the similarities between MegaSquirt and Hondata Flashpro or S300.
Yeah I mean they really all serve the same purpose, there are only so many different ways to accomplish it haha.
TheCarPassionChannel True. I'm actually just now learning about ECU tuning, so this is helping me. I have a '07 Civic sedan (non-Si) with bolt ons and Flashpro. Vit Viper is doing the tune for me since I'm still green on adjusting parameters and stuff.
Can you edit ms through a widows 10 laptop?
Windows 10 should be able to run it just fine. I think a few people have complained about it, but for the most part you should be good.
Daniel Brown awesome thanks man, I thought I would need to get hold of a Windows 98 laptop lol 😂
I run tunerstudio on a small windows 10 tablet for autotuning and data loging.
I'm on Windows 10 in this video.
TheCarPassionChannel awesome. I can't remember what laptop I set it up for the last time I connected (a few years back) I just remember it being awkward, I've since moddified the ecu to work with a different engine so I need to reset everything, I'm such a noob but I'm glad it works with Windows 10 thanks guys
Mega sardines at charonron ang pagkain ko.bumili na kayo ng prutas na charonron .
Is there anyone in the Connecticut or Western Mass area with Megasquirt experience? I need help on this car. JB91710
My car will not start at all I’m lost here it’s a stock 1.6
Greetings, ever get it figured out? I hear this is a common issue and I have no tuners around to tune my car. Hearing base maps aren't good for driving around.
I did actually
@@him4201 ah cool
2nd
5th
People here trying to make their ford Ka 2-step
first?