Nice find! Tip: Even though they might be called "high speed" drill bits, drilling steel is always better when the bit is turning much slower. "High speed" when cutting steel is measured in inches per minute. The bits will stay sharp longer, too. Most any machinist will tell you likewise.
if you drill correctly - low RPM, high pressure - you get spirals. if you get chips you are over revving the drill. around here they fix the streets by adding a layer of pavement, but do not fill the notch where drainage happens. intersections become wheel chocks. that thing would snag and bend the triancle the jack bolts to.
Looks slick especially if you're unhooking in different locations frequently. My trailers only get unhooked when parked at home. So the old scrap of 6X6 works for me. Thanks for sharing!!
I put the Jackfoot on my old 2017 TT with my 1500 and swear by it particularly if you have a manual jack. It's a nice surprisingly simple elegant solution to a problem many don't even know they have...
That trailer (Aspen Trail 17BH) only had one battery and 20 lb propane tank on a 400 lb dry weight tongue. So, fully loaded maybe 550 lbs. I pulled it on a Ram 1500. It made leveling and hitching a lot easier. @@richarde1355
I had a 12 foot aluminium trailer and it just had the regular little pad on the end of the jack, if a driveway had too much slop to it would smash the driveway or sidewalk. This thing is an amazing idea but it makes that clearance down there at least 1" smaller
@@TheCarpSandwich a possible solution to your 1" problem is to have put some spacers in between the jack and the trailer and get longer bolts. Second, if your foot has a bolt holding it on but take off the bolt and replace it with a lock pin of same diameter. Take the foot on and off when hooking up. If the foot is welded just cut it off. They sell replacement feet that go around the pipe. They even sell feet that are extensions.
Wow...this video is the biggest coincidence. I just relocated my utility trailer from one side of the parking lot at my apartment (away from trees in preparation of the hurricane last weekend) back to it's original storage spot 5 minutes ago. Both times of jacking the trailer up and back down, I thought to myself...there has to be a faster way. HERE IT IS! Thanks!
It would be great to have a second slip pin or toggle to lock unit straight up and down to prevent collapsing on a hill . Great invention ,it took some thought .
WARNING... I purchase one of these for my camper and breaking down one day, it folded in. Luckily no one got hurt and nothing broke but it was very scary to think what might have happened if someone was standing near the tung of the trailer when this happened. When I contacted the company to let them know about the design issue, I was told "you need to use wheel chocks with our product". What I did was to drill hole through the device so I could add a pin through it when it is in the down position. This way, it can not fold up if it rocks. This has resolved my issue and I am very pleased with the product now.
Thanks for the comment. My concern was the unit folding if the trailer moved forward at all, as trailers do. Good idea on the locking pin.
Місяць тому
@@tholi1052 my first thought as well and a safety pin installed probably would be the answer,,,,will stay with my 6X6 block as my jack swings back anyway,,,,
I’ve used those before and have to say that sometimes they become difficult to use in curtain Situations. If for some reason you park the trailer on a Unlevel surface where the ground is higher by the front of the trailer you won’t be able to fold it down to jack up the trailer.
+GROUCHY OLD MAN is correct. If you find yourself in a situation without clearance for the Flip to drop correctly, simply hold it in the folded position, and extend the trailer jack.
That would work if the ground is solid but unfortunately where I live it doesn’t work out for me. I live in a area where half the time the ground is too loose that the jack sinks into the ground
I did try this. It works as suggested, but... you lose any stability from the front jack as the Flip Jack is quite wobbly. So, the unit's steadiness really suffers. I subsequently took mine off and threw it away.
I find it amusing that from two simple observations, you can tell what kind of video it will be; 1) What watch you’re wearing 2) the introductory sequence. Love it!
On light duty trailers you can get a jack that bolts to one of the Diagonals and just Pull a pin and the Jack swings 90°. You can leave it jacked out to near the required height .
What keeps it from rolling forward a little bit and folding up when not on the hitch? seems like a potential lawsuit if some kid playing around the trailer and it folding when someone bumps the trailer!
I understand the convience of this, by not having to have a block of wood. I just wonder how sturdy this is. Makes me wonder why he didn't show it longer when all the weight of the trailer is on it. Of course, he installed it on a light weight utility trailer. I wonder how it would hold up on my 16' tandem axle cargo trailer that probably weighs out at 5000 lbs?
Interesting idea. How well does this resist forward movement of the trailer? At first look, seems like it would actually encourage the slightly downhill trailer to fall forward if it wasn't totally chocked up.
Yep, reminds me of those metal office tables that we used to have that had no diagonal bracing on the legs, so you really should only place them in the corner of a room against the walls, otherwise if someone leaned or pushed on one end a bit, the entire table would fold up / collapse... You most definitely did not move those tables around by sliding them across the floor... Well, you didn't do it more than ONCE... :)
We bought the ultimate trailer jack from tractor supply. It retracts further up. We had a problem with the jack dropping as we drove down a bumpy road, it unwound. Tractor supply replaced the jack and now we use a bungee cord to keep the handle from turning.
Save your $35! One major thing missing here is the FlipJack being used while hitched to the truck's hitch (Note that this demonstration is done while the trailer is being supported by a tall wood post and not on a truck)! I bought one of these a few months ago and it makes a dandy shelf decoration since it actually will not work unless you have a serious lift on your truck!
@@jaywilliams415 They make 2 sizes, a 6” and 4”. Not sure which you have but may solve your problem. I have a stock 2wd Silverado and the 4” works great for me.
That's cool my trailer jack mounts on the side of the tongue. I raised it up couple inches off the ground and pull the pin. the whole Jack flips sideways. So it's out of the way the tailgate also
I just ditched that stock tongue jack and went with a Reese folding one with a wheel, the entire jack was $45. With a single axel trailer its the best way to go. Then you can move the unhooked trailer around easier. I've gotten into spots off road where you can't turn around a trailer with the vehicle but there is enough to turn both around independently. When you're not using the trailer jack it swings completely out of the way of the tailgate, and you won't ever drag it (good for off road as well). BTW a wheeled trailer jack is a waist of time on a double axel trailer.
what prevents that extension ( going into stored position.) from collapsing and dropping the hitch down? this could be caused by trailer rolling forward or a sudden movement from behind or from the side. Just asking otherwise it looks great idea.
They are dangerous. I had one, the trailer shifted forward and the jack folded up on me, dropping the trailer to the ground. After that incident, I took the FLip Jack off and chucked it in my recycle bin
Have you seen the trailer jacks that fold to the side? They are much faster and you can leave them at the height you need to without having to crank up or down which is much faster. A friend of mine even mounted a wheel on the bottom of his with one so you can roll the trailer where you need to go with it still on the ground.
+Don English, the purpose of the washer is to give a surface area for the Flip foot to push against when it's pulled up. Without it, the curved edge at the top of the Flip jack foot would not hit the bottom of the jack housing correctly, and therefore not be able to "flip" up.
Last weekend I was camped at a state park. When I made reservations I looked at photos on-line of the campsites prior to selecting one. The photos made the site look pretty flat but when I got there, I realized it wasn't. In fact, I needed to have my hitch post at it's maximum extension to get the camper level front to back. This is the second time within a month that this has happened. There is no possible way I could have used this jack foot on this sloped ground. Even it's instructions warns not to use it on a slope such as this since it could collapse. My door is near the front & the distance from the bottom step to the ground was a measured 21".
They should make this just a little bit wider and have holes on the back side of it to put a lock pin threw. That should keep the thing from folding back up. Oh and you should think about putting leveling jacks on your trailer if you keep having to do this.
+Ron Snyder, the Flip jack foot will work on slopes up to a 5% grade. The Flip also locks into place when extended, which is really a sturdier and more secure option than sitting on a block of wood, especially when your jack is fully extended.
Quick question. What if you get in the trailer and there's a heavy load there you're moving around for whatever reason and the trailer starts rocking backwards and forwards from the motion? What if the new hitch rocks with it? Will it collapse the trailer forward onto the tongue as a result? It just looks like it would totally do that.
+Wysiwyg101, When you extend the jack, the mounting bolt follows the slot in the side of the Flip jack foot. It is positioned in a way that locks the foot to the jack, so that it cannot flip or fold. You should always chock both sides of your trailer, whether using the Flip jack foot or not. This will prevent excessive movement of the trailer, and avoid putting too much side load on the jack or jack foot.
Warning for those considering this product - I installed one a few years ago and when retracted, the vibration while driving caused it to lower and drag on the street, damaging my hitch. You MUST strap it up before driving or be warned this will happen. I know two others that had this occur too
I have two 24 foot cargo trailers each with 16 sinks for wild land fire fighters. This will make my set up time even faster. I didn’t know these existed, thanks for the info.
+Dustin Tilden, the Flip jack foot works great with travel trailers. Very stable. It has a lift capacity of 4,000 lb, and a tongue weight rating of 1,400 lb (6"), or 1,600 lb (4") with a properly chocked trailer.
Could this be used with a good 18v cordless drill to raise and lower the jack much quicker? I've seen scissor lifts on rvs being raised and lowered using a cordless drill?
I like it! Going to order one for the toyhauler and one for my regular trailer. Like the fact that it has a nice large “foot” to give a bigger contact patch with the ground which will help keep it from sinking in as much when the grounds wet.
Pretty good idea except when an occasional bottoming out of a fixed jack while pulling over high spots would eventually bend it or possibly even get torn off.
Watching the video the Reese jack that you had swapped out previously.had the holes already drilled out for the jack foot.when you installed the Reese jack you could have turned the triangle bolt plate to where the holes on bottom faced towards the sides and not forward.it seems to have worked by watching the video. I wasn't there but it looked to have worked.
Thanks for the video showing how you installed it. I can see though from some of the postings that there could be some situations where this jack could be a problem. If one is traveling long term or being in many different ground situations that having the old jack stored with your trailer would be beneficial. Although it might take some time to switch out the jacks it could be done so that your truck and trailer would not be damaged and setting up camp to keep all parties happy... ..happy spouse..happy life!
Owned one before. Great design and loved it. Loaned my trailer to a friend. He went into a steep driveway and smashed it and broke it. Just keep in mind when pulling into places that bottoming out will create a disaster later. But great product.
@@alexstepanski Learned that the hard way after receiving a destroyed trailer gate back from bottoming out while reversing. I never loan anything to anyone besides my dad and best friend and thats only because they know how to respect other's property
Looks like it sticks down 5 or 6 inches below the bottom of the jack leg. My trailer is so long that, when I go over a hump or drop down into a ditch, I need every bit of clearance I can get for the trailer jack. I think I would drag this thing right off and break my jack. I'd like to see an update after you use it for a while. Thanks for the video.
+Just Tinkering, it usually helps people not drag their jack, because you have to retract it all the way to get the Flip to flip up. When it's fully retracted, it does not hang any lower than a typical pin-in-place style jack foot.
I had a welder take a piece of 6" channel and welded it across the 2 main channels half way further back and then mounted my jack. This way I can lower my tailgate with plenty of room without hitting the jack.
I took the jack completely off and put a flip jack back farther on the tough it’s a lot faster to raise and costs under 30.00 and it doesn’t interfere with the tailgate
I used one for a year and half. You have to be careful, if you trailer rolls forward at all it will fold and drop to the ground. There’s no way to lock it when it’s folded down.
I'm wondering what would happen if the trailer tried to roll forward when it was disconnected from the truck? It kinda looks like it might not resist the forward movement very much and fold forward.
+David Schomp, it is always a good idea to chock your trailer, whether you're using the Flip foot or not. Don't rely on your tongue jack to keep your trailer from moving. Tongue jacks themselves are designed to take a lot of vertical load, but side or lateral load will damage the jacks as well. With a properly chocked trailer, you can use the Flip on unlevel ground up to a 5% grade, which is plenty for most locations you would park a trailer.
Wouldn’t work on my sloped driveway as it would drag going in and out. Also looks to be bolted kinda loosely which means rattling going down the road. I’ll stick with a cheap wood block, one on my garage floor and one in my vehicle
Just noticed the regrettable choice of that Big Defex trailer. They are slapped together hastily with self drilling deck screws into the frame cross members which sloppily land at random locations. For those you can't free from rust seizing, you'll need to grind off and drill adjacent holes in the already skimpy frame member. Those which you manage to eek out will require pilot drilling from below and for all that effort you'll retain the drunken assembly motif. Otherwise it is more holes in the creaky frame to seat carriage bolts. I believe the primary engineering goal of those horrible trailers was disposal over maintaining. And repeat sales of the thing to those who haven't wised up after the first dose.
9/30/21, Naw. I have a mesh trailer where I installed a flip-up caster assembly. Since it didn't come w/that, the caster wheel allows me to uncouple the hitch & roll it even w/a load.
Top cranks are so much better anyway. I prefer the jack that can be removed that fits into a round receiver. You can then weld two more round receivers on each side behind the tires. This allows you to either store the jack out of the way or more importantly allows you to use the jack to stabilize the trailer or lift it to change a tire. Curious what the extra hole at the bottom are for?
Ogre Dad the ones I’ve installed were three times better than these triangular ones. They are built much stronger. The mount is made from 5/16” wall not the 10 gage these are made of.
Thats a nice looking addition to a trailer. However, we just got back from a 5 week trip down south and east. This would have been ripped off on some of the places I had to get into. As it was I scraped chains and my post hanging down. And yes my trailer rides completely flat as we have our trike inside of it. Some of the places you have to get into do not think about trailers coming into their lots including Camping World.
Dennis I kinda did the same thing to mine about 5 yrs ago, but because I don’t have a welder I used a fender washer and a cotter pin through the same hole the handle used and use my drill. Your way is better because if you don’t watch it when it gets to the end it will shear off the cotter pin. But I think our way is the best way of all of them.
I had some of the same issues, and my current jack was also shot. I replaced it with The Ultimate Trailer Jack and now I can raise and drop the entire jack as needed, love it. Nice looking too.
Nice find! Tip: Even though they might be called "high speed" drill bits, drilling steel is always better when the bit is turning much slower. "High speed" when cutting steel is measured in inches per minute. The bits will stay sharp longer, too. Most any machinist will tell you likewise.
if you drill correctly - low RPM, high pressure - you get spirals. if you get chips you are over revving the drill.
around here they fix the streets by adding a layer of pavement, but do not fill the notch where drainage happens. intersections become wheel chocks. that thing would snag and bend the triancle the jack bolts to.
Don't Forget Cutting OIL!
@@jerryhorn3621 I added a coolant circulating system to my 20" Craftsman floor-stand drill press.
Also sounded like the hammer function was on. That definitely won't help.
2 words "Step Bit".
Really slick on thin steel with a pilot hole.
This turned out way better than I thought it would. I’m sold!
Looks slick especially if you're unhooking in different locations frequently. My trailers only get unhooked when parked at home. So the old scrap of 6X6 works for me. Thanks for sharing!!
I think I'll keep using my ,4 x6 block that I carry with my trailer it was free
hell yeah
🤣
I agree bud me toon
Yeah, I don’t think I’m going to even watch this.
I was thinking the same thing
Is it required to listen to that music when you install the Flip?
Never would have come across this without you. Thanks!
I put the Jackfoot on my old 2017 TT with my 1500 and swear by it particularly if you have a manual jack. It's a nice surprisingly simple elegant solution to a problem many don't even know they have...
What weight is your trailer?
That trailer (Aspen Trail 17BH) only had one battery and 20 lb propane tank on a 400 lb dry weight tongue. So, fully loaded maybe 550 lbs. I pulled it on a Ram 1500. It made leveling and hitching a lot easier. @@richarde1355
I always carry a scrap chunk of 6x6 treated to put under. That also saves time cranking and doesn't cost anything
But you have to carry that chunk of 6x6 though.
I agree.. its free and can always trow it on the back of your truck bed
I had a 12 foot aluminium trailer and it just had the regular little pad on the end of the jack, if a driveway had too much slop to it would smash the driveway or sidewalk. This thing is an amazing idea but it makes that clearance down there at least 1" smaller
I used a block I made from 2×8, two 12" pieces then an 8" and 6" to finish it. Cheap and easy
@@TheCarpSandwich a possible solution to your 1" problem is to have put some spacers in between the jack and the trailer and get longer bolts. Second, if your foot has a bolt holding it on but take off the bolt and replace it with a lock pin of same diameter. Take the foot on and off when hooking up. If the foot is welded just cut it off. They sell replacement feet that go around the pipe. They even sell feet that are extensions.
Wow...this video is the biggest coincidence. I just relocated my utility trailer from one side of the parking lot at my apartment (away from trees in preparation of the hurricane last weekend) back to it's original storage spot 5 minutes ago. Both times of jacking the trailer up and back down, I thought to myself...there has to be a faster way. HERE IT IS! Thanks!
It would be great to have a second slip pin or toggle to lock unit straight up and down to prevent collapsing on a hill . Great invention ,it took some thought .
I was thinking the same. Looks like it would fold under if trailer gets bumped forward
That's what wheel chocks are for.
I installed the flip Jack about a year ago in my work and play toy hauler, very easy and no more having to carry around a block of wood.
I have used a block...this will take care of that!
There is absolutely no substitute for good and proper product engineering!!! Awesome!
WARNING... I purchase one of these for my camper and breaking down one day, it folded in. Luckily no one got hurt and nothing broke but it was very scary to think what might have happened if someone was standing near the tung of the trailer when this happened. When I contacted the company to let them know about the design issue, I was told "you need to use wheel chocks with our product".
What I did was to drill hole through the device so I could add a pin through it when it is in the down position. This way, it can not fold up if it rocks. This has resolved my issue and I am very pleased with the product now.
Thanks for the comment. My concern was the unit folding if the trailer moved forward at all, as trailers do. Good idea on the locking pin.
@@tholi1052 my first thought as well and a safety pin installed probably would be the answer,,,,will stay with my 6X6 block as my jack swings back anyway,,,,
I’ve used those before and have to say that sometimes they become difficult to use in curtain Situations. If for some reason you park the trailer on a Unlevel surface where the ground is higher by the front of the trailer you won’t be able to fold it down to jack up the trailer.
+GROUCHY OLD MAN is correct. If you find yourself in a situation without clearance for the Flip to drop correctly, simply hold it in the folded position, and extend the trailer jack.
That would work if the ground is solid but unfortunately where I live it doesn’t work out for me. I live in a area where half the time the ground is too loose that the jack sinks into the ground
@@skali4nia135 so how do you ever drop a trailer?
I use 2x6 or 2x8 lumber. Wide enough so trailer jack won’t sink
I find those extension feet very usefull in curtain situations. One swing and the curtain is open!
One of the few gadgets you've shown us that actually look like a very good product. I like it!
I did try this. It works as suggested, but... you lose any stability from the front jack as the Flip Jack is quite wobbly. So, the unit's steadiness really suffers. I subsequently took mine off and threw it away.
Yep ... my thoughts
I have 2 of these and I love them. Very well built and rock solid. I use them every day.
but does it give you any extra clearance when stowed? my trailer leg always scrapes on humps in and out of some gas stations.
Installed one myself and worth EVERY penny! Best investment I’ve done for my trailer
How well does it hold up when you drive over a speed bump or a curb and bend your jack because you don't have a swing away?
I find it amusing that from two simple observations, you can tell what kind of video it will be; 1) What watch you’re wearing 2) the introductory sequence. Love it!
On light duty trailers you can get a jack that bolts to one of the Diagonals and just Pull a pin and the Jack swings 90°.
You can leave it jacked out to near the required height .
In the shop we called those flip feet widow makers because any service work under the trailer where you had to jack it up would make it want to fall
That's pretty cool. More impressed though with the video quality. Crystal clear. Nice work.
nice video , I replaced my center jack with a swing arm jack that clamps to the side works great as well ( no drilling )
What is the weight of your trailer?
What keeps it from rolling forward a little bit and folding up when not on the hitch? seems like a potential lawsuit if some kid playing around the trailer and it folding when someone bumps the trailer!
I understand the convience of this, by not having to have a block of wood. I just wonder how sturdy this is. Makes me wonder why he didn't show it longer when all the weight of the trailer is on it. Of course, he installed it on a light weight utility trailer. I wonder how it would hold up on my 16' tandem axle cargo trailer that probably weighs out at 5000 lbs?
I was thinking the same thing. Mine probably weighs out about the same. I'm sure their is a weight limit on the package.
I have had one of these on my 32’ Haulmark car trailer for a number of years and I really enjoy the ease with which this part works!
Interesting idea. How well does this resist forward movement of the trailer? At first look, seems like it would actually encourage the slightly downhill trailer to fall forward if it wasn't totally chocked up.
I was thinking the same thing.
Yep, reminds me of those metal office tables that we used to have that had no diagonal bracing on the legs, so you really should only place them in the corner of a room against the walls, otherwise if someone leaned or pushed on one end a bit, the entire table would fold up / collapse... You most definitely did not move those tables around by sliding them across the floor... Well, you didn't do it more than ONCE... :)
Drill slower when drilling metal and use some lubricant to help from overheating.the drill bit.
Mild steel doesn't need lube if drilled at a lower speed, if the drill bit is sharp enough 85% of the heat should come out in the chips
@@SuperDeeredriver You know what your talking about. The other problem is the pilot bit size too big for 1/2.
If the trailer rolls forward will it fold up and end up on the ground?
Yes that’s my same question?
You could mount it sideways instead of the way he put it on. Trailer won't move forwards or backwards.......I know, I know...sideways
I seen that on eBay and I had no idea how it work but I do now thank you
We bought the ultimate trailer jack from tractor supply. It retracts further up. We had a problem with the jack dropping as we drove down a bumpy road, it unwound. Tractor supply replaced the jack and now we use a bungee cord to keep the handle from turning.
Save your $35! One major thing missing here is the FlipJack being used while hitched to the truck's hitch (Note that this demonstration is done while the trailer is being supported by a tall wood post and not on a truck)! I bought one of these a few months ago and it makes a dandy shelf decoration since it actually will not work unless you have a serious lift on your truck!
@@jaywilliams415 They make 2 sizes, a 6” and 4”. Not sure which you have but may solve your problem. I have a stock 2wd Silverado and the 4” works great for me.
Seen it bought, love it. Also replaced the Jack to a front crank the top crack beat my knuckles on the battery box.
I have the same on my big tex trailer. I believe I bought it at the local tractor supply. Nice job on the install . Have a great day!
cool design, I wonder how that washer holds up - seems like the whole system depends on it .
That's cool my trailer jack mounts on the side of the tongue. I raised it up couple inches off the ground and pull the pin. the whole Jack flips sideways. So it's out of the way the tailgate also
One thing I would suggest is hitting the holes that are drilled with some etching primer followed by some black paint.
I just ditched that stock tongue jack and went with a Reese folding one with a wheel, the entire jack was $45. With a single axel trailer its the best way to go. Then you can move the unhooked trailer around easier. I've gotten into spots off road where you can't turn around a trailer with the vehicle but there is enough to turn both around independently. When you're not using the trailer jack it swings completely out of the way of the tailgate, and you won't ever drag it (good for off road as well). BTW a wheeled trailer jack is a waist of time on a double axel trailer.
Interesting points. Your trailer, what is its weight?
what prevents that extension ( going into stored position.) from collapsing and dropping the hitch down? this could be caused by trailer rolling forward or a sudden movement from behind or from the side. Just asking otherwise it looks great idea.
Drill another hole above the bolt hole for a safety pin when it is parked or stored. You would have thought the manufacturer would have done this.
I agree , this is extremely dangerous without a pin to lock it. Someone will get hurt and the company will be sued.
They are dangerous. I had one, the trailer shifted forward and the jack folded up on me, dropping the trailer to the ground. After that incident, I took the FLip Jack off and chucked it in my recycle bin
I put one on my flatbed trailer. I love it, works great!
Have you seen the trailer jacks that fold to the side? They are much faster and you can leave them at the height you need to without having to crank up or down which is much faster. A friend of mine even mounted a wheel on the bottom of his with one so you can roll the trailer where you need to go with it still on the ground.
Have seen these before and they work well when on level ground. Have seen them fold up on unlevel ground. Good idea though.
I wondered about that. If you had a way to keep that from happening it might be ok.
Like the flip jack! Thanks for showing install and demo!
You Sir, are absolutely correct - Mind blown!
I have to say I’m pretty impressed!!! Thanks
I bought one for my trailer, easy to install and love it
The purpose of the top washer is? Other than to create an annoying rattling noise when trailer on the move?
it also creates a less friction inhibiting pivot point
+Don English, the purpose of the washer is to give a surface area for the Flip foot to push against when it's pulled up. Without it, the curved edge at the top of the Flip jack foot would not hit the bottom of the jack housing correctly, and therefore not be able to "flip" up.
Ditto~!!!
The coolest thing I've seen all year!
Last weekend I was camped at a state park. When I made reservations I looked at photos on-line of the campsites prior to selecting one. The photos made the site look pretty flat but when I got there, I realized it wasn't. In fact, I needed to have my hitch post at it's maximum extension to get the camper level front to back. This is the second time within a month that this has happened. There is no possible way I could have used this jack foot on this sloped ground. Even it's instructions warns not to use it on a slope such as this since it could collapse. My door is near the front & the distance from the bottom step to the ground was a measured 21".
They should make this just a little bit wider and have holes on the back side of it to put a lock pin threw. That should keep the thing from folding back up.
Oh and you should think about putting leveling jacks on your trailer if you keep having to do this.
+Ron Snyder, the Flip jack foot will work on slopes up to a 5% grade. The Flip also locks into place when extended, which is really a sturdier and more secure option than sitting on a block of wood, especially when your jack is fully extended.
I would not use this on a camping trailer. you need that stiff tongue jack to keep movement out of the camper when walking around in it.
@@triplenickle6995 camp trailers have stabilizers on all 4 corners
@@triplenickle6995 that's what the 4-corner stabilizer jacks are for.
They should have that option with the wheel instead of foot.
Could use this on the camper
Quick question. What if you get in the trailer and there's a heavy load there you're moving around for whatever reason and the trailer starts rocking backwards and forwards from the motion? What if the new hitch rocks with it? Will it collapse the trailer forward onto the tongue as a result? It just looks like it would totally do that.
+Wysiwyg101, When you extend the jack, the mounting bolt follows the slot in the side of the Flip jack foot. It is positioned in a way that locks the foot to the jack, so that it cannot flip or fold. You should always chock both sides of your trailer, whether using the Flip jack foot or not. This will prevent excessive movement of the trailer, and avoid putting too much side load on the jack or jack foot.
Thats actually way more cool than i thought it was gonna be!
Will it fold over if the trailer is pushed forward?
You must have been at the Renaissance Festival when doing this.
Looks to me If the trailer rolls forward it might be able to fold over ?
Warning for those considering this product - I installed one a few years ago and when retracted, the vibration while driving caused it to lower and drag on the street, damaging my hitch. You MUST strap it up before driving or be warned this will happen. I know two others that had this occur too
I have two 24 foot cargo trailers each with 16 sinks for wild land fire fighters. This will make my set up time even faster. I didn’t know these existed, thanks for the info.
I’ve had one of these flip up jacks for like 4 years. Love it. Some times it needs some guidance when lowering it down to slide up the slot properly.
Big Truck Big RV would that be safe on a travel trailer? Would it be stable enough?
it should be fine. It slides into a groove when weight is on it.
+Dustin Tilden, the Flip jack foot works great with travel trailers. Very stable. It has a lift capacity of 4,000 lb, and a tongue weight rating of 1,400 lb (6"), or 1,600 lb (4") with a properly chocked trailer.
That is simply awesome. Nice seeing some bumper pull stuff on the channel!
Could this be used with a good 18v cordless drill to raise and lower the jack much quicker? I've seen scissor lifts on rvs being raised and lowered using a cordless drill?
No
I like it! Going to order one for the toyhauler and one for my regular trailer. Like the fact that it has a nice large “foot” to give a bigger contact patch with the ground which will help keep it from sinking in as much when the grounds wet.
Pretty good idea except when an occasional bottoming out of a fixed jack while pulling over high spots would eventually bend it or possibly even get torn off.
Mine have never scraped, they are no lower than the jack foot I replaced.
Watching the video the Reese jack that you had swapped out previously.had the holes already drilled out for the jack foot.when you installed the Reese jack you could have turned the triangle bolt plate to where the holes on bottom faced towards the sides and not forward.it seems to have worked by watching the video. I wasn't there but it looked to have worked.
Thanks for the video showing how you installed it. I can see though from some of the postings that there could be some situations where this jack could be a problem. If one is traveling long term or being in many different ground situations that having the old jack stored with your trailer would be beneficial. Although it might take some time to switch out the jacks it could be done so that your truck and trailer would not be damaged and setting up camp to keep all parties happy...
..happy spouse..happy life!
How is it ,when you have weight on your trailer
What happens if the trailer wants to roll forward? It looks like the thing would want to fold to the stored position, and drop the tongue.
Handy for urban life. .here in the farm that'd be torn off by uneven terrain in the first couple hours.
That's a great idea! All the best ideas are born in America in small shops!
I put one on our travel trailer. Less time putting the electric Jack up and down. We got the 1600lb one for the travel trailer. Very nice addition.
Owned one before. Great design and loved it. Loaned my trailer to a friend. He went into a steep driveway and smashed it and broke it. Just keep in mind when pulling into places that bottoming out will create a disaster later. But great product.
I'm in the process of raising the mounting point of all my jacks
Ogre Dad that would be a great idea!
Don't loan trailers to friends. If someone needs help I have no problem offering my trailer as long as it's behind my truck and I'm behind the wheel.
@@alexstepanski Learned that the hard way after receiving a destroyed trailer gate back from bottoming out while reversing. I never loan anything to anyone besides my dad and best friend and thats only because they know how to respect other's property
Looks like it sticks down 5 or 6 inches below the bottom of the jack leg. My trailer is so long that, when I go over a hump or drop down into a ditch, I need every bit of clearance I can get for the trailer jack. I think I would drag this thing right off and break my jack. I'd like to see an update after you use it for a while. Thanks for the video.
it sits about 1" lower than the foot without it
Well, that's a whole lot different than I thought. This might be something I have to try. Thank you for your reply.
+Just Tinkering, it usually helps people not drag their jack, because you have to retract it all the way to get the Flip to flip up. When it's fully retracted, it does not hang any lower than a typical pin-in-place style jack foot.
I had a welder take a piece of 6" channel and welded it across the 2 main channels half way further back and then mounted my jack. This way I can lower my tailgate with plenty of room without hitting the jack.
That is really neat. All kinds of cool stuff out these days!
I used a bolt on swing away jack from tsc. Jack rides parallel to tongue. Tailgate is ncer in close proximity to Jack. Just another option
I took the jack completely off and put a flip jack back farther on the tough it’s a lot faster to raise and costs under 30.00 and it doesn’t interfere with the tailgate
Man some people are really smart! The thoughts people have to invent stuff like this!
I used one for a year and half. You have to be careful, if you trailer rolls forward at all it will fold and drop to the ground. There’s no way to lock it when it’s folded down.
DITTO. They are dangerous. I had one fold up on me when I was unhooking on level ground.
Very cool! I may have to grab a couple of those!
So how easy can the trailer roll forward and collapse the extension or foot u added?
This thing is a simple, yet genius idea! Thanks for showing. I will be getting one.
I'm wondering what would happen if the trailer tried to roll forward when it was disconnected from the truck? It kinda looks like it might not resist the forward movement very much and fold forward.
+David Schomp, it is always a good idea to chock your trailer, whether you're using the Flip foot or not. Don't rely on your tongue jack to keep your trailer from moving. Tongue jacks themselves are designed to take a lot of vertical load, but side or lateral load will damage the jacks as well. With a properly chocked trailer, you can use the Flip on unlevel ground up to a 5% grade, which is plenty for most locations you would park a trailer.
Seems like a swing or rotating jack often used on boat trailers would have solved both of your issues.
I agree. When I ordered my 14' utility trailer, I had them replace the thru-the-tongue jack with a folding one; much quicker and easier to use.
Darrell Kidd and that can support a wheel as well
Is there a drill attachment for the stand? Meaning just attach your wireless drill to the jackstand and quickly lower or bring up your stand?
What’s the weight capacity on that? That is pretty cool!!
+Sergio Montes, the Flip is rated at a lift capacity of 4,000 lb, and can be used with tongue weights of 1,400 lb (6" model) or 1,600 lb (4" model).
I love Castles II, pretty sure I still have the install disk. Installed and played about 10 years ago. I did not play the first one
Wouldn’t work on my sloped driveway as it would drag going in and out. Also looks to be bolted kinda loosely which means rattling going down the road. I’ll stick with a cheap wood block, one on my garage floor and one in my vehicle
Just noticed the regrettable choice of that Big Defex trailer. They are slapped together hastily with self drilling deck screws into the frame cross members which sloppily land at random locations. For those you can't free from rust seizing, you'll need to grind off and drill adjacent holes in the already skimpy frame member. Those which you manage to eek out will require pilot drilling from below and for all that effort you'll retain the drunken assembly motif. Otherwise it is more holes in the creaky frame to seat carriage bolts. I believe the primary engineering goal of those horrible trailers was disposal over maintaining. And repeat sales of the thing to those who haven't wised up after the first dose.
In NZ our trailers jack stands swings down with a wheel on it
Do they make one with a wheel?
Whoa... fella. Fast drill wood, slow drill metal w/ pressure. Awesome idea!
9/30/21, Naw. I have a mesh trailer where I installed a flip-up caster assembly. Since it didn't come w/that, the caster wheel allows me to uncouple the hitch & roll it even w/a load.
Now that is smart, I agree it takes forever to crank those things, awesome. I will be getting one too.
Why doesn't it come pre drilled?
I used a landing gear that has the pin so it lays sideways and never is in the way. The red foot worked great on my 23ft toy hauler
Top cranks are so much better anyway. I prefer the jack that can be removed that fits into a round receiver. You can then weld two more round receivers on each side behind the tires. This allows you to either store the jack out of the way or more importantly allows you to use the jack to stabilize the trailer or lift it to change a tire.
Curious what the extra hole at the bottom are for?
You have a couple good ideas there. Except the side mount for a tongue jack. Those need to be center mounted for best results
The side mount for the front can be centered at the front of the trailer deck.
Sometimes. And if so👍but usually they fit best on the side and tend to lean and then twist and then break
Ogre Dad the ones I’ve installed were three times better than these triangular ones. They are built much stronger. The mount is made from 5/16” wall not the 10 gage these are made of.
It's a matter of leverage angle and weight. I've seen tongues twist, not just jacks
Thats a nice looking addition to a trailer. However, we just got back from a 5 week trip down south and east. This would have been ripped off on some of the places I had to get into. As it was I scraped chains and my post hanging down. And yes my trailer rides completely flat as we have our trike inside of it. Some of the places you have to get into do not think about trailers coming into their lots including Camping World.
I just cut the handle off and welded on a 3/4 nut. I lower and raise the trailer with my drill.
Dennis I kinda did the same thing to mine about 5 yrs ago, but because I don’t have a welder I used a fender washer and a cotter pin through the same hole the handle used and use my drill. Your way is better because if you don’t watch it when it gets to the end it will shear off the cotter pin. But I think our way is the best way of all of them.
I had some of the same issues, and my current jack was also shot.
I replaced it with The Ultimate Trailer Jack and now I can raise and drop the entire jack as needed, love it.
Nice looking too.