I caught the fact that I didn't cross the chains before taking off. I moved the trailer to a shed in the same facility to load up my moving equipment and added a hitch extender to the back, which made me catch that I didn't cross the chains. Sometimes filming throws you off a bit.
@Alan d'Eon No my response was to the topic of CROSSING them. Some people even argue they should not be crossed. The tongue hitting the ground is really a moot point once you've lost the trailer so like a said above. It's more important to not lose the trailer than to think your safety chain hookup method matters, as long as they are hooked up.
One big advantage to that gate valve is having a backup valve! If you've ever had a gate valve failure on the road, finding the correct valve then, trying to replace it in the campground, which is usually prohibited! Or finding a repair shop, you know the routine...... And of course that plumbing is NEVER designed for easy replacement! Always enjoy ur post!
I've never had the issue with stuff being caught in the drain lines. I always flush everything out a couple of times before I consider the job done. My pipes are relatively short so I think dumping the gray water takes care of most of everything, then I follow it up by flushing some clean water behind it.
Since the safety chain issue came up, maybe you could do a video showing the proper way to hitch up a travel trailer? You could talk about sizing the chain, chain length, and where to attach the breakaway cable. Most importantly, explain the purpose of crossing the chains. I’ve known people who didn’t realize they needed to have a battery on the trailer to activate the electric brakes in an emergency. That system could be discussed. Over the years I’ve seen trailers with undersized chains, trailers with just one chain, chains that were dragging on the ground, as well as chains that were too short. This is an issue that deserves some attention.
Try a California Duster for cleaning the trailer. I've been using one for over 30 years on my vehicles and the result is great. Takes about 90 seconds to dust off a vehicle or trailer of your size. Can only use the duster if the vehicle is dry. Even though the duster holds much dirt - it has never scratched or marred the paint. Shake it out during dusting and when finished. The dirtier the duster appears, the better it works.
I've had the sewer surprise several times. You would be surprised how much pressure a few gallons of poo can have. Just remember to keep your mouth closed when you take off the cap. I've changed enough diapers. Sewer doesn't even phase me.
The gate valve is the best thing since sliced bread. I saw someone from another channel recently install one but it was a permanent one that they had to cut the old coupling off and use pvc cleaner and cement. I like this one but I'd definitely put a screw threw it in case it decided to come off. I can't tell you over the years how many times I've forgotten to close the gray tank after dumping then find out when you take the cap off whoooosh. I've also forgotten to close the black tank before as well and just pulled the gray valve and gotten that too. I installed a clear extension on to see what's in the tube before opening. I've got the 30wrs work and play and they couldn't have put my valves in any harder to reach places. There's been times paper has not let the black valve seat properly. I just knew the next dumping was going to involve stuff in the tube. This part will eliminate the bucket to keep spillage. Thanks for sharing.
Funny enough. I caught the lever for the black tank once while rolling up my 50 amp cord. The cap was on but the black tank valve was open for a minute until I realized it. Imagine the fun of taking off the cap at the dump station. A 2nd gate valve became a must after that.
Yep, that Valtera twist on waste valve would have been real nice to have about 6 years ago. Back then I bought our first ever travel trailer, (used), and did a lot of work on it. I bought it in February, so we had a few months before we could actually take it out camping. Keep in mind, this was our very first ever camper. My wife had always wanted one but I forced her for years to camp in a tent on cots, no AC, primitive, like the Army style. But I gave in finally after her back surgery didn’t go well. Lots of pain ALL the time. I wanted her to be as comfortable as possible. So it comes to our very first trip out. We spent a week at our favorite state park. Half way through I had to dump the tanks. I went to connect the hose, removing the cap and I swear a GUSHER of waste came out. The valves were CLOSED, but… someone had obviously opened and then closed them, letting the pipe fill up. Bad joke on me, I was covered in it and MAD AS HECK. I had to use the non potable rinse hose to rinse myself off, then had to clean the mess up. Boy was I pissed. Incensed more like it. Fuming mad. Angry. But the worst part of the experience was, EVERYONE around, including my wife, were laughing at me. What could I do ? I calmed myself down, finished my task, remarked the trailer in its spot and promptly took a LONG HOT SHOWER with lots and lots of soap ! LOL ! I look back on that experience and laugh about myself from time to time, but now I am gunshy so to speak when it comes to dump time. I still do the job, because no one else will, but I do it. And no, the valves weren’t leaking causing the pipe to fill, as that was the only time it had ever happened. Someone played a nasty prank on me and it worked. Oh well, live and learn I guess. Now anytime, everytime we go, I make sure those valves are CLOSED and remain closed. I kind of wish they came equipped with keyed locks haha
Thank you for showing this video on upgrades like doing the bike and chair rack like that. And that furnace cover for the bugs. Those were great tips. Thank you!
YES! I had this leakage problem with our last travel trailer. I didn't think there was enough room to put on the extra waste valve because the connection was so close to the ground as it's was, but it should be a lot better on our next one. After an unfortunate incident in a campground, I learned to "catch" the flow in the septic hose when taking off the cover. But even sometimes I would forget. 😅 Thank you for all the tips in this video, especially for backing up with no camera!
I like the dump valve. Did not know something like that was made. Will have to pick one up before springtime. Thank you for the wonderful content and reviews of products and trailers. Keep up the great work
Here in South Carolina the bug guards are a necessity. I installed them on on the heater, water heater, and fridge. I learned about the Valtera valves when I took a cap off and the water splattered on my shoes. Now I’ve got the valves...not the shoes!
The bug guards and the valve on the end of the discharge pipe should be standard equipment on travel trailers and 5th wheels. Those were the first upgrades I made to out TT. The valve makes connecting and disconnecting so much cleaner.
For the sewer hose hook-up, I just hold the open end of the hose I'm going to connect directly under the opening of the dump pipe. When I'm taking the dum pipe cap off, I let pressure release first, then I slowly take the cap off, tipping it toward me, then pulling it away completely once I know nothing is there and/or everything has dropped into the sewer hose.
I did both upgrades just not the chair upgrade. I also recommend placing a 4" ss clamp around the ears of the gate valve to secure it tightly to the pipe and prevent it from accidentally turning off the pipe when attaching or removing your hose. Place the clamp just over the locking ears and tighten securely. Works like a charm.
Great video, planning on purchasing a trailer soon, have learned a lot from this channel. Sad to see the keyboard cowboys jumping at the opportunity to criticize. My hat off to you for having the patience to continue what you do with all the negativity.
I have an old fiver. I'm absolutely getting this. Thank you. No "surprises" when setting up at another campground. On Etrailer, the valve is $45 and change. On Wal Mart, it's $28 and change. I always shop around.
On the black waste pipe, I bought a see through attachment for it so I could see if any surprises were waiting for me. It also had a bit of a bend to allow positioning of the attachment where you were happier with it.
Those furnace screens are pretty slick. Our Trailmanor has the valves at the end of the pipes so not much need to install another valve. They look like a great idea for larger trailers with long pipes between the valves and caps though. Cool accessories. E-trailer is one of our go-to suppliers.
FYI, bought two Valterra valves for the front and back drains and after the installation put a small self tapping screw on the top next to the locking cam. Should I need to replace a valve just take the screw from the top and remove the valve, just a handy thought, thanks for the video.
JD, I like your advice to install the bike/chair/access bracket higher, for this reason: seeing how far down the chairs hang, they BLOCK THE TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT. For some drivers following you, they may not be looking the other direction and could smash into the rear of your rig. Love the Valtera valve and furnace vent covers; 2 of the first items to purchase, indeed. Y'all Be Safe!
Hello Tom here... I put a self tapping screw behind one of the locking tabs to prevent the "accidental" disconnect .... Now when I dump I do the black first-close the black gate & use the gray to flush. Been using mine for 2 years now.👍
When I had this problem I changed my valves. They should move freely and close completely. Yours are sticking and not quite closing all the way. This new gate valve is a great idea
One note about the vent screens, they also make them for refrigerator vents and water heater vents. I have them installed on all my vents, very easy to install, not expensive and can prevent potentially dangerous hazards like carbon monoxide or fires.
For the Valterra valve, I drill a small hole on the bayonet on the valve that connects to the rv drain pipe and insert a small cotter pin to prevent the valve from twisting off while twisting the cap off. I think this would be a good idea for the manufacturer to include.
JD, On that valve I have seen many channels that tell you to drain your black tank then leave the black tank open. Close the Valtera valve then open the grey tank... this ideally would rinse the black tank and require less water to flush the black. Well this may work once or twice but here's the problem. If you put a lot of paper in the toilet (not saying who in my marriage does this but it's not the husband) what happens is that when you back wash the black tank with grey water it will force the paper up into the air vent. Then, the paper dries and becomes a solid and can completely clog the air vent. This is a no bueno situation. What then happens is that you end up venting the holding tank back up through the toilet. Whenever you flush you get bubbles coming up through the black water in your toilet. All because some cute young UA-cam RV couple told me to use this valve to clean out the black tank. DON'T DO IT!!! Flush the tank out normally and don't mix the black and grey tanks. I know it should make sense but only do it when absolutely necessary. Sorry for the rant but this information needs to get out there. I'm telling you from experience. LOL. I love looking at the cute young couples (well they can be eye candy on UA-cam) but sometimes their expert advice does not come from experience. My testimony here is from experience. Thanks for indulging my rant on your channel. Pat
It's nice that you can back up with your door open. Those of us with Ram's, not so much. The computer will put the vehicle back in park if you open the door while it's in gear, reverse or forward. It also will not go in to gear while the door is open.
Tips like these are always welcome, so thank you. Our older travel trailer never leaked a drop from the drain line when uncapped, but our newer Montana always leaks out about a cup of bluish water from the deodorant / disinfectant I always put down the toilet at the end of every trip. I will definitely be getting this gate valve. Great innovation for the bug guards, will get those as well. Zip ties are a must for the ladder rack. I learned the hard way by just hanging mine over the rung and bungie cording chairs to it. While bouncing down the road, the rack bounced off and swung free on one side taking out our rear taillight lens, but not scratching the paint...got lucky. Funny, but for solo backing and hitching, I have always used that same process by using a block of wood on the ground as a reference to my foot. Don't forget to grease that ball before hitching. I've had a heck of a time unhitching at times without greasing the ball first.
Your ladder rack is covering the Tail Lite presently. But I do like the bug screens for the furnace demo. Crossing the safety chains is recommended. You are very clear spoken, exceptionally so, which when doing videos is critically important. thnx.
Our travel trailer has two grey tanks that drain in the same spot. The second grey tank is only for the laundry hookup that we don't use. So to take advantage of that second tank, we close that outer valve, keep the black water valve closed, and open the two grey water valves. Gravity will fill both grey tanks evenly.
Thanks for the tip on the T58, our 2018 27RLS, Cougar half-ton leaks like crazy and I'm always surprised by a gush of nasty water when we go to hook up at a new campsite...
Same thing. As careful as I tried to be, the gush of fluid got all over my hands or gloves. for all I know, it may have been the black tank gunk. Yuck.
Hit read-more. Trust me, you need to think aboout this. This is a must have. We typically travel until 4-5pm then stop for the night when travling cross country. We made a night stops in Georgia head ing north. We did not have full hook-ups, nor did we have full tanks so we left the next morning continuing our trip and made it to Kentucky where we had full hook-ups. Its important to note, you should never dump your black tank when it is only 1/2 full --- 3/4 is the point where it should be dumped --- anything less will not give the proper "wush" needed to properly clean and ensure a good emptying of the tank. All of our valves were closed when we left Georgia. They were still closed when we got to our destination. THe process we follow is to empty black, then when it is finished to close it, and open grey to flush the hose clean with grey then close things back up so that anything left in the down-hose is grey water and not terribly nasty. When we got to our next night stay, I held the hose under the cap which catches the stray water, but instead of the 1/2 to 1 cup of water I expect....in realty there was 2.5 gallons or about 20 pounds of estimated effluent waiting for me. The blade valves didn't leak before or after this event. I assume some one at a rest stop pulled the black valve and closed it again. The blade valve never leaked before this, or after. How was it handled -- we first apolgized PROFUSELY to the sarine that was our neighbor at the full hook-up site. I'm not sure if he laughed or cried....but he was at least understanding. We then went to the office and explained our situation. They pointed out that our agreement was that as occupants of the site we were responsible for the discharge. They came out, looked, and dumped several shovel fulls of baking soda on the spot which took care of the problem. This was small enough of a mess that they kind of laughed it off a bit, and said not to worry about it. Apparently this happens not infrequently --- and our problem was much easier delt with. I assume other have hoses pop off completely with 40 gallons of spilled effluent. Thank Goodness. Lesson learned.... 1] Don't assume people will leave your stuff alone 2] Carry baking soda 3] This valve is a must.
One thing I got in the habit of doing. I would rig the sewer hose to the fitting on the ground. Then I would hold the camper end under the cap to catch anything that comes out when I remove the cap.
We need to get that twist on waste valve! Had our RV de-winterized (won’t mention where) and when we hit our first camping stop and were setting up, my husband opened up the waste tank valve to hook up the sewer hose and ended up with a huge pile of human feces in his lap!! Not kidding. It was so disgusting. Also, noticed when I was getting ready to set up the toilet inside, I could see that someone had USED our toilet! We know it wasn’t from us as I cleaned our entire trailer before we took it in to have it winterized at the end of October 2020, brought it home and immediately covered it.
The hint on backing up to the trailer is something I've been doing for years backing up to cars in my older tow trucks but you need to cross the safety chains
When I hook up to my trailers (I have never had a camera on anything I hook to a trailer to a trailer with) one thing you can do is know where your trailer sits while pulling it and mark it in memory that is where it always will be. Then when you unhook leave your trailer hitch just high enough that when you pull out from under it with your vehicle, your vehicle will slightly have to drop to come out of the hitch, the trailer hitch will push down on the ball as it comes out from under the trailer. (REMEMBER TO ALWAYS ALWAYS BLOCK THE TIRES FRONT AND BACK). then when you go to hook up and you are lined up with the trailer when you get to your hitch your vehicle will push under the hitch. and you can feel the adjustment. It doesn't need to be harsh just a slight rub which will push down on your vehicle a little. Then when your vehicle comes back up you stop and lower your trailer down and latch it, hook it and connect it and AWAY WE GO, sorry it was so long. But I am hooked to trailers from 8 ft long to 40 ft long weekly and this is the way I teach others to. No cameras for us . We are State Park Employees.
Use the end valterra. valve great for dry camping, dumping in blue bottle,also quick closure no spillage. Cheap insurance against poo. All gate valves eventually seep,this makes an easy cure,and is easily repaired should seal need replacing. They make a glue on model as well as twist on.
I had a mess because somebody left the black water drain valve open. I chose to modify the inside of the valve by removing the inner bayonet connector and replacing it with a standard glue in to 3" pipe. Then I cut off the bayonet connector on the outlet pipe and glued a 3" coupler with ABS glue. This also reduced the protrusion of the extra valve and ensured that it would not work loose and fall off. The best upgrade I've done yet.
Your external gate valve is good to back flush your black tank with your grey tanks , get one you can hook a water hose up to and fresh water flush black tank. Do not flush galley tank if it does not have traditional p - trap .
EVERY time I hear the background music, I hear, in my head, “Like the legend of the Phoenix.....We’re up all night to have fun. We’re up all night to get lucky, we’re up all night to get lucky...” (Daft Punk). Makes me smile.
My Gates are at the end of the Pipe, Rockwood 2613WS. I also have a 6 inch clear extension attached so I do not have to lean so far down to attach the hose. The clear extension allows me to see what is left in the drain before closing the valve.
JD- Great Video!!! I always laugh when something so obvious isn't covered, and I had NO IDEA of just how easy, simple & VALUABLE they are! The Valterra valve is exactly what I mean. However, I had definitely drank the Camco Kool-Aide. Given a free run, I have no idea of just how much I could spend at Camco. Starting with a Olympic Wave 3 radiant heater, a weekend Extender propane addition to my tanks, I have list as long as my arm! I didn't even know that they made/sold a simple chair rack for the ladder? Obviously, I'll need 2- thank you very much! Hahaha- I'm thinking $1,000's & could probably get into the low 5 digits....
and the one thing to combat a blow out is steering control assist. If you don't have them with a front blow out TPMS is useless! I have 2 on the front of my Class A and a anti sway bar to boot!
I have a plastic tub that I keep my rubber gloves and sewer fittings in and i set that under the drain to catch what ever in waiting behind the cap. then just dump that down the sewer when im done and wash it all clean.
Get some Rubbermaid wire shelving end caps that go on the tips of cut ends to put on the ends of the hooks on the chair carrier. Will prevent scratching the camper.
Thanks for the tips. I will point out that Surburban does not recommend using any vent cover. I had doubts when I heard that, but it is in their manuals.
I use that valve to back flush my black tank with grey water. 1st I dump the black as normal. Then I close the new valve and open the grey valve while keeping the black valve open. This lets the grey water go down the plumbing to the new valve then back up into the black tank. I let the physics of water seeking its own level do it's thing then shut the grey valve off. I reopen the new valve and let the black tank re-drain itself, close the black valve, open the grey valve and finish up like nothing happened. works great!
Okay!! Yeah, I've had my furnace vents loaded up with acorns from birds, counted 24 of the acorns...When I went to turn on my furnace that fall, well, a really LOUD screech followed after the fan motor started. I had to disconnect the furnace, pull it completely out of the cupboard, and take apart the squirrel cage enough to dislodge the acorns. So, I'd say the furnace covers would be a real good idea.
In regards to the sewer drain valve. If you're hooked up to their city water you have a flush valve for the black tank. If you flush your black tank before you leave the campground you won't have that issue.
First things first latex gloves always when dealing with the sewage hose. I insert the elbow into the ground pipe while holding the unconnected end I slowly unscrew the campers black tank cap holding the open end underneath to catch the few drops that happen to come out.
Dump the black tank first and clean out the lines by dumping the grey water last. I've never had any surprises waiting in the dump hose or the gate valves doing this. I have never seen any RV that didn't have installed gate valves from the factory. One thing you can do is get a can of silicone spray to lube the valve rubber seals or use Thetford valve lube in your grey and black tank.
I use a King valve that has the clear part so you can see what is flowing through. Have not had any gunk come out when uncapping either, but anything that would come out would be from the grey tank anyway. Can't leave the King Valve on since it sticks out a foot and could be knocked off while traveling. On my last trailer it would hit pavement since the trailer sat too low, and would be pressed against the slide when closed. Great addition though.
I bought a wide mouth funnel on Amazon and insert into the sewer hose and then hold under cap when I remove. When any "surprise" is over I set funnel aside and attach the hose.
I had to point mine forward because of space and convenience. I simply used a couple of pieces of plumbers strapping under a couple of bolts and pop riveted to the skirting to keep it on. It fit so you can hardly see it.
Sewer Valve Assembly------That is a great product the thief's will and can take full advantage of. If it's not permanently attached, it's history.... The RV should have come with the permanent valve assemble already installed.....
One problem we came to discover is that "Prancksters" will pull that handle on the valve to allow the mess to come towards the front cap. My husband was able to affix a zip tie through a hole he drilled so he'd know if it was tampered with or not.
Oh big truck big RV I forgot to add one thing when it comes to steamers I’ve studied quite a bit I started out with a little tea kettle steamer back in the early 90s fresh out of the Navy and you have to be careful because the stronger ones can easily remove decals takeoff paint much like a power washer the same principles apply but if you want to get some gunk sticky stuff or sanitize something those things are awesome the dryer the steam the better
I don't have that. What I do in plug into the dump 1st, then hold the hose under the cap and let any remnants drop into the hose then hook it up to dump. always clean, no mess plus I keep a reverse slush attached so the tank in pretty clean.
I like to leave the trailer a half inch or so lower than the ball. Just enough so you feel a little dip when back under it. Can usually line up on the first try.
I found this suggestion early on in our RV life and did install it, but wish it had been on before I got the RV, as I got quite a surprise the first time I pulled off the sewer cap. On the Winnebago the BT is on the other side of the RV from the sewer dump side, so a long pipe runs across the bottom of the RV and the valve shut off pull run all the way to the other side, making for quite a bit of space after that valve and before cap. Wish I had thought to put a bucket under first. Really Really wish I had.
Will be getting that valve shortly. 2nd dump of the year was a disaster, left over chocolate bars flowing right into my hands. Worse than changing my kids diapers many years ago. Thanks for the info, cheers.
The third valve is a game changer for preventing the dreaded "sewer surprise", however, you actually missed the biggest feature this valve has to offer! Once you have your hose hooked up, open the third valve and open the black valve, once that's drained leave the black valve open and close the third valve...when you open the Grey valve the water will hit the third valve and back up into the black tank...as soon as you hear liquid no longer moving, open the third valve and drain both tanks...you've just used your Grey water to do a back flush of your black tank which will prevent a whole nother level of headache...power washing out the black tank through the toilet when it gets clogged up with toilet paper that didn't want to drain at first..
I caught the fact that I didn't cross the chains before taking off. I moved the trailer to a shed in the same facility to load up my moving equipment and added a hitch extender to the back, which made me catch that I didn't cross the chains. Sometimes filming throws you off a bit.
I caught that! No expert myself, but I do know what happens when a flat trailer pops off the hitch at 65 mph. Thank God I crossed those chains! Lol
I was hollering. Lol
@Alan d'Eon Its not that important. It's more important to not need them.
@Alan d'Eon That sentence make absolutely no sense. I don't even know what you're trying to say.
@Alan d'Eon No my response was to the topic of CROSSING them. Some people even argue they should not be crossed. The tongue hitting the ground is really a moot point once you've lost the trailer so like a said above. It's more important to not lose the trailer than to think your safety chain hookup method matters, as long as they are hooked up.
One big advantage to that gate valve is having a backup valve! If you've ever had a gate valve failure on the road, finding the correct valve then, trying to replace it in the campground, which is usually prohibited! Or finding a repair shop, you know the routine...... And of course that plumbing is NEVER designed for easy replacement!
Always enjoy ur post!
I've never had the issue with stuff being caught in the drain lines. I always flush everything out a couple of times before I consider the job done. My pipes are relatively short so I think dumping the gray water takes care of most of everything, then I follow it up by flushing some clean water behind it.
Since the safety chain issue came up, maybe you could do a video showing the proper way to hitch up a travel trailer? You could talk about sizing the chain, chain length, and where to attach the breakaway cable. Most importantly, explain the purpose of crossing the chains. I’ve known people who didn’t realize they needed to have a battery on the trailer to activate the electric brakes in an emergency. That system could be discussed.
Over the years I’ve seen trailers with undersized chains, trailers with just one chain, chains that were dragging on the ground, as well as chains that were too short. This is an issue that deserves some attention.
Try a California Duster for cleaning the trailer.
I've been using one for over 30 years on my vehicles and the result is great.
Takes about 90 seconds to dust off a vehicle or trailer of your size.
Can only use the duster if the vehicle is dry.
Even though the duster holds much dirt - it has never scratched or marred the paint.
Shake it out during dusting and when finished.
The dirtier the duster appears, the better it works.
I’ve been using the “foot on step method “ for years . Simple low tech method 👍👍
I've had the sewer surprise several times. You would be surprised how much pressure a few gallons of poo can have. Just remember to keep your mouth closed when you take off the cap. I've changed enough diapers. Sewer doesn't even phase me.
The gate valve is the best thing since sliced bread. I saw someone from another channel recently install one but it was a permanent one that they had to cut the old coupling off and use pvc cleaner and cement. I like this one but I'd definitely put a screw threw it in case it decided to come off. I can't tell you over the years how many times I've forgotten to close the gray tank after dumping then find out when you take the cap off whoooosh. I've also forgotten to close the black tank before as well and just pulled the gray valve and gotten that too. I installed a clear extension on to see what's in the tube before opening. I've got the 30wrs work and play and they couldn't have put my valves in any harder to reach places. There's been times paper has not let the black valve seat properly. I just knew the next dumping was going to involve stuff in the tube. This part will eliminate the bucket to keep spillage. Thanks for sharing.
I put that gate valve on a while back, it’s a great upgrade! Should be standard equipment on all rv’s.
Yup! I agree! I just bought one tonight…mine leaks pretty good.
Camping for 40 years never had a need for one...
Funny enough. I caught the lever for the black tank once while rolling up my 50 amp cord. The cap was on but the black tank valve was open for a minute until I realized it. Imagine the fun of taking off the cap at the dump station. A 2nd gate valve became a must after that.
Yep, that Valtera twist on waste valve would have been real nice to have about 6 years ago.
Back then I bought our first ever travel trailer, (used), and did a lot of work on it. I bought it in February, so we had a few months before we could actually take it out camping.
Keep in mind, this was our very first ever camper. My wife had always wanted one but I forced her for years to camp in a tent on cots, no AC, primitive, like the Army style.
But I gave in finally after her back surgery didn’t go well. Lots of pain ALL the time. I wanted her to be as comfortable as possible.
So it comes to our very first trip out. We spent a week at our favorite state park. Half way through I had to dump the tanks. I went to connect the hose, removing the cap and I swear a GUSHER of waste came out. The valves were CLOSED, but… someone had obviously opened and then closed them, letting the pipe fill up.
Bad joke on me, I was covered in it and MAD AS HECK.
I had to use the non potable rinse hose to rinse myself off, then had to clean the mess up.
Boy was I pissed. Incensed more like it. Fuming mad. Angry.
But the worst part of the experience was, EVERYONE around, including my wife, were laughing at me.
What could I do ?
I calmed myself down, finished my task, remarked the trailer in its spot and promptly took a LONG HOT SHOWER with lots and lots of soap ! LOL !
I look back on that experience and laugh about myself from time to time, but now I am gunshy so to speak when it comes to dump time. I still do the job, because no one else will, but I do it.
And no, the valves weren’t leaking causing the pipe to fill, as that was the only time it had ever happened.
Someone played a nasty prank on me and it worked.
Oh well, live and learn I guess.
Now anytime, everytime we go, I make sure those valves are CLOSED and remain closed. I kind of wish they came equipped with keyed locks haha
Get the clear adapter that connects to the end of the gate valve,it helps give you a idea of how clean your tanks are when you flush them
Thank you for showing this video on upgrades like doing the bike and chair rack like that. And that furnace cover for the bugs. Those were great tips. Thank you!
YES! I had this leakage problem with our last travel trailer. I didn't think there was enough room to put on the extra waste valve because the connection was so close to the ground as it's was, but it should be a lot better on our next one. After an unfortunate incident in a campground, I learned to "catch" the flow in the septic hose when taking off the cover. But even sometimes I would forget. 😅 Thank you for all the tips in this video, especially for backing up with no camera!
I like the dump valve. Did not know something like that was made. Will have to pick one up before springtime. Thank you for the wonderful content and reviews of products and trailers. Keep up the great work
OMG that is EXACTLY how I back up to my trailer. Right down to the foot!
Ditto.. and I thought my clever trick was so unique!
Here in South Carolina the bug guards are a necessity. I installed them on on the heater, water heater, and fridge. I learned about the Valtera valves when I took a cap off and the water splattered on my shoes. Now I’ve got the valves...not the shoes!
The bug guards and the valve on the end of the discharge pipe should be standard equipment on travel trailers and 5th wheels. Those were the first upgrades I made to out TT. The valve makes connecting and disconnecting so much cleaner.
For the sewer hose hook-up, I just hold the open end of the hose I'm going to connect directly under the opening of the dump pipe. When I'm taking the dum pipe cap off, I let pressure release first, then I slowly take the cap off, tipping it toward me, then pulling it away completely once I know nothing is there and/or everything has dropped into the sewer hose.
I did both upgrades just not the chair upgrade. I also recommend placing a 4" ss clamp around the ears of the gate valve to secure it tightly to the pipe and prevent it from accidentally turning off the pipe when attaching or removing your hose. Place the clamp just over the locking ears and tighten securely. Works like a charm.
Great video, planning on purchasing a trailer soon, have learned a lot from this channel. Sad to see the keyboard cowboys jumping at the opportunity to criticize. My hat off to you for having the patience to continue what you do with all the negativity.
I have an old fiver. I'm absolutely getting this. Thank you. No "surprises" when setting up at another campground. On Etrailer, the valve is $45 and change. On Wal Mart, it's $28 and change. I always shop around.
$25 on Amazon with free shipping
Camco equivalent of external dump valve is 19$ on Amazon -- MARCH 2022
As a contractor, I sent back the twist on master valve and plumbed in a permanent master valve. Job took about 30 minutes.
On the black waste pipe, I bought a see through attachment for it so I could see if any surprises were waiting for me. It also had a bit of a bend to allow positioning of the attachment where you were happier with it.
Just ordered one....thank you, I didn't know they existed and this will save me a service call!!
Those furnace screens are pretty slick. Our Trailmanor has the valves at the end of the pipes so not much need to install another valve. They look like a great idea for larger trailers with long pipes between the valves and caps though. Cool accessories. E-trailer is one of our go-to suppliers.
FYI, bought two Valterra valves for the front and back drains and after the installation put a small self tapping screw on the top next to the locking cam. Should I need to replace a valve just take the screw from the top and remove the valve, just a handy thought, thanks for the video.
JD, I like your advice to install the bike/chair/access bracket higher, for this reason: seeing how far down the chairs hang, they BLOCK THE TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT. For some drivers following you, they may not be looking the other direction and could smash into the rear of your rig. Love the Valtera valve and furnace vent covers; 2 of the first items to purchase, indeed.
Y'all Be Safe!
I put a stainless steel screw into the pipe right behind the lug "tooth" on the gate valve to keep it in place.
Our camper came upgraded with the gate valves. Woot woot.
Hello
Tom here...
I put a self tapping screw behind one of the locking tabs to prevent the "accidental" disconnect ....
Now when I dump I do the black first-close the black gate & use the gray to flush.
Been using mine for 2 years now.👍
I did this on mine after a surprise after pulling a cap to straighten it and now I have no fear of any more surprises.
When I had this problem I changed my valves. They should move freely and close completely. Yours are sticking and not quite closing all the way. This new gate valve is a great idea
Love the low tech foot measure/backup solution!
Great One- Handed job with the bug screen's.
One note about the vent screens, they also make them for refrigerator vents and water heater vents. I have them installed on all my vents, very easy to install, not expensive and can prevent potentially dangerous hazards like carbon monoxide or fires.
For the Valterra valve, I drill a small hole on the bayonet on the valve that connects to the rv drain pipe and insert a small cotter pin to prevent the valve from twisting off while twisting the cap off. I think this would be a good idea for the manufacturer to include.
I've never had more than a drip or two when I take the cap off? But my grey and black gate valves are also really close to the hook up.
JD,
On that valve I have seen many channels that tell you to drain your black tank then leave the black tank open. Close the Valtera valve then open the grey tank... this ideally would rinse the black tank and require less water to flush the black. Well this may work once or twice but here's the problem. If you put a lot of paper in the toilet (not saying who in my marriage does this but it's not the husband) what happens is that when you back wash the black tank with grey water it will force the paper up into the air vent. Then, the paper dries and becomes a solid and can completely clog the air vent. This is a no bueno situation. What then happens is that you end up venting the holding tank back up through the toilet. Whenever you flush you get bubbles coming up through the black water in your toilet. All because some cute young UA-cam RV couple told me to use this valve to clean out the black tank. DON'T DO IT!!! Flush the tank out normally and don't mix the black and grey tanks. I know it should make sense but only do it when absolutely necessary. Sorry for the rant but this information needs to get out there. I'm telling you from experience. LOL. I love looking at the cute young couples (well they can be eye candy on UA-cam) but sometimes their expert advice does not come from experience. My testimony here is from experience.
Thanks for indulging my rant on your channel.
Pat
Never in 30 years heard anyone say to leave the black tank valve open to do that.
Cool, those little accessories are pretty good. I would like to see the screens with a smaller mesh to keep the spiders out.
the dump valve is a great idea I did that over 18 years ago on our first 5th wheel and have added it to the new 5th wheel -
It's nice that you can back up with your door open. Those of us with Ram's, not so much. The computer will put the vehicle back in park if you open the door while it's in gear, reverse or forward. It also will not go in to gear while the door is open.
Tips like these are always welcome, so thank you. Our older travel trailer never leaked a drop from the drain line when uncapped, but our newer Montana always leaks out about a cup of bluish water from the deodorant / disinfectant I always put down the toilet at the end of every trip. I will definitely be getting this gate valve. Great innovation for the bug guards, will get those as well. Zip ties are a must for the ladder rack. I learned the hard way by just hanging mine over the rung and bungie cording chairs to it. While bouncing down the road, the rack bounced off and swung free on one side taking out our rear taillight lens, but not scratching the paint...got lucky. Funny, but for solo backing and hitching, I have always used that same process by using a block of wood on the ground as a reference to my foot. Don't forget to grease that ball before hitching. I've had a heck of a time unhitching at times without greasing the ball first.
Your ladder rack is covering the Tail Lite presently. But I do like the bug screens for the furnace demo. Crossing the safety chains is recommended. You are very clear spoken, exceptionally so, which when doing videos is critically important. thnx.
Our travel trailer has two grey tanks that drain in the same spot. The second grey tank is only for the laundry hookup that we don't use. So to take advantage of that second tank, we close that outer valve, keep the black water valve closed, and open the two grey water valves. Gravity will fill both grey tanks evenly.
Clever.
I like your trailer hookup solo backup reference trick.
I did the same thing lining up railcars for loading when i didn't have a spotter.
We use the Drain Master sewer hose which is must easier and cleaner to user
Thanks for the tip on the T58, our 2018 27RLS, Cougar half-ton leaks like crazy and I'm always surprised by a gush of nasty water when we go to hook up at a new campsite...
Same thing. As careful as I tried to be, the gush of fluid got all over my hands or gloves. for all I know, it may have been the black tank gunk. Yuck.
I'm in Canada and have never seen a system without black and grey water valves.
was thinking the same thing
It has grey and black valves.
We were told about the screens when we picked our unit up from the dealer. Great video. If ours had a ladder that rack would be on our wish list.
Hit read-more. Trust me, you need to think aboout this.
This is a must have. We typically travel until 4-5pm then stop for the night when travling cross country. We made a night stops in Georgia head ing north. We did not have full hook-ups, nor did we have full tanks so we left the next morning continuing our trip and made it to Kentucky where we had full hook-ups.
Its important to note, you should never dump your black tank when it is only 1/2 full --- 3/4 is the point where it should be dumped --- anything less will not give the proper "wush" needed to properly clean and ensure a good emptying of the tank.
All of our valves were closed when we left Georgia. They were still closed when we got to our destination.
THe process we follow is to empty black, then when it is finished to close it, and open grey to flush the hose clean with grey then close things back up so that anything left in the down-hose is grey water and not terribly nasty.
When we got to our next night stay, I held the hose under the cap which catches the stray water, but instead of the 1/2 to 1 cup of water I expect....in realty there was 2.5 gallons or about 20 pounds of estimated effluent waiting for me. The blade valves didn't leak before or after this event. I assume some one at a rest stop pulled the black valve and closed it again. The blade valve never leaked before this, or after.
How was it handled -- we first apolgized PROFUSELY to the sarine that was our neighbor at the full hook-up site. I'm not sure if he laughed or cried....but he was at least understanding. We then went to the office and explained our situation. They pointed out that our agreement was that as occupants of the site we were responsible for the discharge. They came out, looked, and dumped several shovel fulls of baking soda on the spot which took care of the problem. This was small enough of a mess that they kind of laughed it off a bit, and said not to worry about it.
Apparently this happens not infrequently --- and our problem was much easier delt with. I assume other have hoses pop off completely with 40 gallons of spilled effluent. Thank Goodness.
Lesson learned....
1] Don't assume people will leave your stuff alone
2] Carry baking soda
3] This valve is a must.
The chair/bike rake should be rubber coated so it doesn't rub off the finish on the chairs and ladder.
One thing I got in the habit of doing. I would rig the sewer hose to the fitting on the ground. Then I would hold the camper end under the cap to catch anything that comes out when I remove the cap.
Grey water drizzle (or flood) every time! Never knew about the twist on waste valve. As a full timer, im ordering it today!!
I have 2 valterra valves that came with my 2021 coachmen spirit. 1 for gray water, 1 for black water.
We need to get that twist on waste valve! Had our RV de-winterized (won’t mention where) and when we hit our first camping stop and were setting up, my husband opened up the waste tank valve to hook up the sewer hose and ended up with a huge pile of human feces in his lap!! Not kidding. It was so disgusting. Also, noticed when I was getting ready to set up the toilet inside, I could see that someone had USED our toilet! We know it wasn’t from us as I cleaned our entire trailer before we took it in to have it winterized at the end of October 2020, brought it home and immediately covered it.
The hint on backing up to the trailer is something I've been doing for years backing up to cars in my older tow trucks but you need to cross the safety chains
When I hook up to my trailers (I have never had a camera on anything I hook to a trailer to a trailer with) one thing you can do is know where your trailer sits while pulling it and mark it in memory that is where it always will be. Then when you unhook leave your trailer hitch just high enough that when you pull out from under it with your vehicle, your vehicle will slightly have to drop to come out of the hitch, the trailer hitch will push down on the ball as it comes out from under the trailer. (REMEMBER TO ALWAYS ALWAYS BLOCK THE TIRES FRONT AND BACK). then when you go to hook up and you are lined up with the trailer when you get to your hitch your vehicle will push under the hitch. and you can feel the adjustment. It doesn't need to be harsh just a slight rub which will push down on your vehicle a little. Then when your vehicle comes back up you stop and lower your trailer down and latch it, hook it and connect it and AWAY WE GO, sorry it was so long. But I am hooked to trailers from 8 ft long to 40 ft long weekly and this is the way I teach others to. No cameras for us . We are State Park Employees.
Use the end valterra. valve great for dry camping, dumping in blue bottle,also quick closure no spillage.
Cheap insurance against poo.
All gate valves eventually seep,this makes an easy cure,and is easily repaired should seal need replacing.
They make a glue on model as well as twist on.
I had a mess because somebody left the black water drain valve open. I chose to modify the inside of the valve by removing the inner bayonet connector and replacing it with a standard glue in to 3" pipe. Then I cut off the bayonet connector on the outlet pipe and glued a 3" coupler with ABS glue. This also reduced the protrusion of the extra valve and ensured that it would not work loose and fall off. The best upgrade I've done yet.
Your external gate valve is good to back flush your black tank with your grey tanks , get one you can hook a water hose up to and fresh water flush black tank. Do not flush galley tank if it does not have traditional p - trap .
That is the best item to get and the most important one
EVERY time I hear the background music, I hear, in my head, “Like the legend of the Phoenix.....We’re up all night to have fun. We’re up all night to get lucky, we’re up all night to get lucky...” (Daft Punk). Makes me smile.
My Gates are at the end of the Pipe, Rockwood 2613WS. I also have a 6 inch clear extension attached so I do not have to lean so far down to attach the hose. The clear extension allows me to see what is left in the drain before closing the valve.
Yup No 1 in the No 2 pipe!
Furnace Covers - looks like a snow catcher, which could then cause fume back up.
Also wonder how long they last in the wind and weather. I just unscrewed the covers off mine and put a bit of screening underneath - hardly visible.
JD- Great Video!!! I always laugh when something so obvious isn't covered, and I had NO IDEA of just how easy, simple & VALUABLE they are! The Valterra valve is exactly what I mean. However, I had definitely drank the Camco Kool-Aide. Given a free run, I have no idea of just how much I could spend at Camco. Starting with a Olympic Wave 3 radiant heater, a weekend Extender propane addition to my tanks, I have list as long as my arm! I didn't even know that they made/sold a simple chair rack for the ladder? Obviously, I'll need 2- thank you very much! Hahaha- I'm thinking $1,000's & could probably get into the low 5 digits....
I think the number one upgrade needs to be a tire pressure monitoring system
and the one thing to combat a blow out is steering control assist. If you don't have them with a front blow out TPMS is useless! I have 2 on the front of my Class A and a anti sway bar to boot!
I have a plastic tub that I keep my rubber gloves and sewer fittings in and i set that under the drain to catch what ever in waiting behind the cap. then just dump that down the sewer when im done and wash it all clean.
Thanks for the great recommendations on upgrades.
Get some Rubbermaid wire shelving end caps that go on the tips of cut ends to put on the ends of the hooks on the chair carrier. Will prevent scratching the camper.
That is one of the first items I added to my RV! Ive heard nightmares of people taking a poo bath...
I really like the reviews you do and the way you do them thank you very much
The sewer valve is also great if the main valve jambs.
Have owned several RVs all of them had quick release dump valves as standard equipment.
Thanks for the tips. I will point out that Surburban does not recommend using any vent cover. I had doubts when I heard that, but it is in their manuals.
Ugh, well El Crapo. Yuck had this happen this weekend getting one of these valves. The heater screens are a good idea too.
I use that valve to back flush my black tank with grey water. 1st I dump the black as normal. Then I close the new valve and open the grey valve while keeping the black valve open. This lets the grey water go down the plumbing to the new valve then back up into the black tank. I let the physics of water seeking its own level do it's thing then shut the grey valve off. I reopen the new valve and let the black tank re-drain itself, close the black valve, open the grey valve and finish up like nothing happened. works great!
It surprised me and I had to wash up and change clothes yup got me good!
Okay!! Yeah, I've had my furnace vents loaded up with acorns from birds, counted 24 of the acorns...When I went to turn on my furnace that fall, well, a really LOUD screech followed after the fan motor started. I had to disconnect the furnace, pull it completely out of the cupboard, and take apart the squirrel cage enough to dislodge the acorns.
So, I'd say the furnace covers would be a real good idea.
In regards to the sewer drain valve. If you're hooked up to their city water you have a flush valve for the black tank. If you flush your black tank before you leave the campground you won't have that issue.
First things first latex gloves always when dealing with the sewage hose. I insert the elbow into the ground pipe while holding the unconnected end I slowly unscrew the campers black tank cap holding the open end underneath to catch the few drops that happen to come out.
Ha, I do the same foot trick hitching up. Done it for years
Cool I gotta go to the store thanks 👍👍
Dump the black tank first and clean out the lines by dumping the grey water last. I've never had any surprises waiting in the dump hose or the gate valves doing this. I have never seen any RV that didn't have installed gate valves from the factory. One thing you can do is get a can of silicone spray to lube the valve rubber seals or use Thetford valve lube in your grey and black tank.
And don't block your lights with the chairs!
I use a King valve that has the clear part so you can see what is flowing through. Have not had any gunk come out when uncapping either, but anything that would come out would be from the grey tank anyway. Can't leave the King Valve on since it sticks out a foot and could be knocked off while traveling. On my last trailer it would hit pavement since the trailer sat too low, and would be pressed against the slide when closed. Great addition though.
I bought a wide mouth funnel on Amazon and insert into the sewer hose and then hold under cap when I remove. When any "surprise" is over I set funnel aside and attach the hose.
I had to point mine forward because of space and convenience. I simply used a couple of pieces of plumbers strapping under a couple of bolts and pop riveted to the skirting to keep it on. It fit so you can hardly see it.
Sewer Valve Assembly------That is a great product the thief's will and can take full advantage of. If it's not permanently attached, it's history.... The RV should have come with the permanent valve assemble already installed.....
One problem we came to discover is that "Prancksters" will pull that handle on the valve to allow the mess to come towards the front cap. My husband was able to affix a zip tie through a hole he drilled so he'd know if it was tampered with or not.
Good Stuff, Great Help, Good Tips 👍Thanks!
I just use the little bucket for that minimal spillage.
T58 valve is a great idea and added safety but you should fix the problem seals or stuck wastegates either grey or black
Oh big truck big RV I forgot to add one thing when it comes to steamers I’ve studied quite a bit I started out with a little tea kettle steamer back in the early 90s fresh out of the Navy and you have to be careful because the stronger ones can easily remove decals takeoff paint much like a power washer the same principles apply but if you want to get some gunk sticky stuff or sanitize something those things are awesome the dryer the steam the better
I don't have that. What I do in plug into the dump 1st, then hold the hose under the cap and let any remnants drop into the hose then hook it up to dump. always clean, no mess plus I keep a reverse slush attached so the tank in pretty clean.
I like to leave the trailer a half inch or so lower than the ball. Just enough so you feel a little dip when back under it. Can usually line up on the first try.
Put a T58 valve on my RV and makes a dirty job a lot cleaner. The T58 valve is the first thing I would put on a new RV.
I found this suggestion early on in our RV life and did install it, but wish it had been on before I got the RV, as I got quite a surprise the first time I pulled off the sewer cap. On the Winnebago the BT is on the other side of the RV from the sewer dump side, so a long pipe runs across the bottom of the RV and the valve shut off pull run all the way to the other side, making for quite a bit of space after that valve and before cap. Wish I had thought to put a bucket under first. Really Really wish I had.
Will be getting that valve shortly. 2nd dump of the year was a disaster, left over chocolate bars flowing right into my hands. Worse than changing my kids diapers many years ago. Thanks for the info, cheers.
The third valve is a game changer for preventing the dreaded "sewer surprise", however, you actually missed the biggest feature this valve has to offer! Once you have your hose hooked up, open the third valve and open the black valve, once that's drained leave the black valve open and close the third valve...when you open the Grey valve the water will hit the third valve and back up into the black tank...as soon as you hear liquid no longer moving, open the third valve and drain both tanks...you've just used your Grey water to do a back flush of your black tank which will prevent a whole nother level of headache...power washing out the black tank through the toilet when it gets clogged up with toilet paper that didn't want to drain at first..
I just position the sewer hose underneath the cap, open slowly then drain any liquid into the sewer. A little careful pouring and viola...no mess.