Wood Stove Boiler Tank - Part 3 - I'm In Hot Water!
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This is the 3rd part of the DIY wood stove modifications where we add a hot water tank/boiler to the wood stove.
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Your videos are very well made. They're clear and you're good at expressing yourself. Your videos deserve so many more views! There are so many that are not as good as you but they still get more views; this has to change!
Thanks. You can help by sharing and getting the word out there! ;-)
I sure will :)
Beautiful, Beautiful! You have literally done all that I'd hoped you would.
I have been using a Non-catalytic wood stove (with the secondary combustion phase) in my house for the past five years and I can say with confidence that you don't have to worry about creosote buildup with the set up your running. Stating the obvious, you have added another variable with the heat exchanger. Would you consider taking temperature readings from the side of the box just between the heat shield (baffle) and the heat exchanger and post the average in response. I think it would be a more accurate representation of the exhaust gas temperature. I'm betting the stove is drawing just fine.
If you find the stove is running too cold or want to increase your efficiency. Here's a little food for thought. My stove came with fire-board baffle with ceramic fiber insulation on top of it. It is designed to reflect and trap residual heat inside the combustion chamber for as long as possible, thereby increasing efficiency. This season I have left out my ceramic insulation, (destroyed it servicing the flue) running fire-board only and I am using app. 20% more fire wood conservatively speaking. At least I can testify to the insulations effectiveness.
Always looking forward to your videos, your in my top 5 fav's.
M Russell I had taken some temperatures with my IR laser thingy but the footage was terrible. I'll be sure to put it in the update video. I do know that the crappy little temperature gauge I show in the video is VERY inaccurate, I'm getting some creosote on the tank because it's condensing on the cold metal....the rest of the stove and chimney still looks good.
If you use a heat exchanger and make the heatsink into a closed loop, you could use steel and deionized water and/or antifreeze to prevent corrosion in the heatsink.
eformance yes, I didn't want the hassle of making a closed loop and getting a stainless heat exchange to put in the fish tank. This was a quick trial to see how well I could get it to work.
That will be very interesting to see if creosote will build up in a season. Looks great and those are happy fish.
Another job well done, THANKS for sharing!!!
Brilliant. Very interested in how this turns out. Thanks.
Nice job. Google "woodstove water heater coil by thermo bilt". They sell stainless coils for wood stoves. May be less expensive to buy one than to make one. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I'll certainly check them out! It may come in handy for the fish tank side if I want to make it a closed looped system.
I see what you did there! Very cool!
Chuck
Awesomeness.
Why not try putting insulation on the top part of the stainless steel sheet metal that is resting on the top of the secondary air burner square tubes inside the wood stove. That should increase the heat generation. That part is just my idea. Look forward to your next improvement in the next video fella. VF
good work my plant bro, owsome to see, thanks for the video ,..
One another "Very..."'s
-ü-
good year.
Thank's for videos.
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Works great You dont want to see my welding lol.
A mixture dish soap and water will reveal air leaks more effectively than trying to feel the air come out.
I considered doing that but didn't want to have to clean it off before welding it.
you could also make a better shimney to let it flow faster to get higher temp out and build op less creosoot
I like your videos even tho I don't use facebook. Funny, no more cold fish. My girlfriends all say Im a cold fish. Maybe I could build one of these wood stoves and take care of that.
With all this great info are you planning to build and sale this stoves someday?
No way! I'd never want to have to deal with the EPA certs!
Very nice. The rust layer on the secondary burners has become stable (no longer red iron oxide coming off), I wonder what is happening there.
Jason Polensky I'm not really sure what's going on. Metallurgy isn't my field of expertise. ;-) If it lasts a couple years, I'll take it!
I am guessing that some of the carbon from the wood gas is bonding to something from the hot air coming in, perhaps nitrogen, or maybe there is some nickel in your steel. If there is still rust flaking off the inside of the burner, this is a more likely case. If there is no more rust inside the tubes, some other chemistry magic must be happening. Either way, it works well, good to see the lower exhaust temperature, very efficient design. Hopefully very little ash or other things sticking to your chimney walls. I hope it lasts good and long, the rust in the first video was a shocker. I thought back to your first grate for the rocket mass heater, but the temperature there was much lower, much more flaking.
Sane curiosity in me. We live k2 valley frozen wheather
cool project.
Are the baffles only tack welded ?
Do you use a certain weld for a stove ? Great video 👍
"farmer's weld"...whatever holds it together. ;-)
What happens if the pump quits while the fire is hot?
Seems it would build up pressure quick.
It's not under pressure. Steam would just come out of the end.
Have you tested take the air for burning from outside instead of using warmed air inside the greenhouse?
I use the inside air because it helps to keep the humidity down.
You got lucky, but its still a no no. You should either braze or silver solder, also called brazing. Ive been welding-fabricating for 40 years.
I do a lot of thinks that bend the rules. ;-)
can i ask, why do you need to lower your temp from the stove ?
Are you sure you're not a power engineer?
Might you worry about metals reacting in the aquaponics water, fish and veg? What is your current pH? Might want to watch the pH and other things as this pilot moves forward.
I picked up a natural gas pool heater off of craigslist. I hope to use it with biogas to warm future aquaponics projects. Again, I am concerned about metals reacting with the aquaponics.
This is low carbon steel...basically iron and carbon with a few track materials...not much different than stainless except the chromium and the high rate of corrosion. ;-) I would be careful with that heater, it probably uses copper in the heat exchanger.
Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) surely copper is safe we use it eveywhere in house pipes?
copper is toxic. In a recirculating system it will just keep accumulating in the system. It's also toxic to humans but most of the copper that would get into the water is continually flushed out.
So is this thing sill going strong?
surprisingly, yes!
I have a Harbor Freight 10x 12 greenhouse with an aquaponics set up for 4 years. Live in upstate NY and am tired of struggling with heating the water. I have natural gas, and electric in my greenhouse and am not afraid to use either one. Thinking of adding a gas hot water heater in line to my system. Does anyone see any problems except for cost?
It should be fine. You will want to use some kind of heat exchanger so you don't get poop stuck in the coils in the heater. Many of them are made with copper so you don't want to get the copper in the fish water either.
You cant weld cast iron elbows to steel!!!!!!!! (They will crack)
It's been installed for 3 years and they haven't cracked.
Black pipe fittings are not cast iron. They are malleable iron..... they can be welded.