@@youngrussel i think you can omitt the plasmacutter here if you buy one of those metal holesaws. so you need only a good drill, an anglegrinder and a migwelder
@@steffankaizer yes it would be a cheaper alternative, would need a high quality hole saw like a Lenox or a Milwaukee to get thru most of those holes provided you use cutting fluid.
How about a one year review ? Anything you would change ? Be awesome to see a secondary burn chamber if possible. Thanks for the video, very nice build sir. -4 f / -20c here in Canada right now AND IT SUCKS !!! .
Great build, only thing I would suggest adding is a diffuser plate on the pipes to prevent metal fatigue, I have fixed simular stoves and thats usually what happens to them, also a diffuser on the door to keep from warping it.
I've seriously watched this video 6 times now. Best built wood stove that I've ever saw and I've saw a lot of them. Would you do anything different though or leave everything the same?
There are a few things that I would do different and I will make some modifications to the heater soon. Because of the size of the heater, I should have used 8" chimney pipe instead of 6" and I should have made larger damper openings. I also should have thought of a way to clean the creosote off of the heat exchanger tubes (see earlier comment from kahvac & Mark Turney). Even though the heater works very well, I think these modifications will make it much more efficient. Thanks for your comment!
NICE JOB!! may be you can put a shield for the pipes....piece of blue stone...or some flat stone you can attach to it giving it some space off course...also you can put bricks or concrete blocks around it so you don't get burned and it can serve as a heat battery...softer heat than direct fire heat.
How has the door and the area surrounding the door been with warping. The door maybe could have had some angle iron welded to it to stiffen it up. The frame the door butts up against maybe some triangle gussets going from the door frame to the propane tank walls. Heat cycling from hot to cold does some strange things to metal from the resulting expansion and contracting. You have some great ideas tho in this build.
I haven’t had any trouble with warping due to normal operation of the heater. I honestly believe that welding on the door would probably cause more warping than building a fire in the heater.
From my machining days i was told to not try to use a fly cutter freehand. They should always be used in a drill press on clamped material. That can get off line, grab the work and twist the drill out of your had. The cutter can do a lot of damage. Not safe. Use a hole saw in that situation. The stove is well done. Good design and good workmanship. I would have added an ash tray underneath the grate to make clean out easier. I also would have welded a flat plate on top for a teakettle .
Hello! To prevent the door of your furnace from bending from the high temperature of the flame, you can protect the door. 4 short bolts 1 inch long are welded on the inner wall of the door and another sheet of metal is welded to them a little smaller, this helps and prolongs the service life.
Nice job! Just a helpful hint though. They have a handy dandy tool called a holesaw. Only buy Lenox or Milwaukee bits. They will cut through 1/2" plate no problem. But after you drill the 1/4" center guide hole put a piece of 1/4" rod in the holesaw bit holder. Because you'll break drill bits. And I didn't see your damper. You'll save a boatload of wood with a damper. Otherwise all the heat goes out the flue. And that's just wasteful. And use big wood in the big stove! That saves lots of wood also!
Thanks for the comments. There is a damper, it's just hard to see in the video. It is located in the stove pipe after it makes the 90 degree turn. As for the holesaw, that would probably make life easier but I was trying to get by with the tools that I currently have on hand.
A nice build...at some point your going to need access to clean the outside of the heat exchanger tubes. The middle tubes are almost impossible to clean. I'm sure you'll figure out a way... Thanks for sharing with us !
@@medic91716 if you build another one make another plate like the front and back with the pipe holes and place it inside loose on the pipes than attach a rod to it sticking out the front so you can move it front to back cleaning the pipes off. I've seen factory built heat exchangers designed like that.
Something comes to mind, I have no experience with it so I'm just thinking here. . . I see ads on TV all the time, creosote burning logs for reducing creosote in chimneys. Worth a try?
Will you be kind to show how did you clean the tank? Is there anything that you used to clean it? I have a small tank, it will provide the knowledge and information to consider before attempting to do anything. Much appreciated 🐾🐾🐾🐾
After removing the fittings from the tank, I cleaned the inside of the tank with degreaser and water, multiple times. I then placed the tank in a pile of tree limbs and brush and let it burn all night to remove the paint. You must make sure you have cleaned the inside of the tank completely. You should also remove the fittings so pressure can not build up in the tank and cause an explosion. Do all of this before getting it near any ignition source or cutting equipment. To add another level of safety, you can use non sparking tools until the tank is completely cleaned of gas. I have seen some other videos on how to safely prepare and gas tank for cutting. You may want to watch those also. You can never be too safe when working on a gas tank.
Thank you for your prompt reply. I will consider and follow your suggestion. It has to be thoroughly clean; very well done your video and well explained. Much appreciated 🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾😘😘😘😘
If you have a small tank hundred gallons or so just fill it with water clear to the top. Then you know there's no propane or any other fuel left to blow your face off!
That's impressive. To big for my small, well insulated barn . I need something small like a tent heater or maybe an ammunition box/wood heater . Thanks
Nice job. However you could have encased the barrel and used it as the airbox deleting the 55 gal drum and making the unit much safer. Great job though.
Great job! I plan to build a similar heater, but force that hot air coming out from those pipes into a 8x8 steel structure . I think it would get hot enough to sterilize firewood (190 degrees) as well as dry it out pretty quick - essentially heating a firewood kiln. Do you think that would work - if you directed all that heat into an area that size? If that was your goal, would you do anything else or anything different? Thanks and great job by the way Also, anybody else that may read this and has an idea, please mention it.
If you are planing on building a heater the same size as mine, you will probably want to increase the chimney size to 8" and also increase the damper size to increase the air flow. I will probably make those modifications to mine also.
Hello Ron, could you please tell me what is the efficiency of this stove ??? How big is your shop in square feet ??? How much wood do you burn in a average year ???? Thanks
My shop is 30’X36’ and the heater warms it very well when temperatures are in the low 30s. I only heat the shop on the few days that I actually get to go down and work and I live in Mississippi where it was 60 degrees 3 days ago and 30 degrees today so it would be hard to determine how much wood it would burn if it was used on a more regular basis. But to answer your question the best way I can, on the cold days that I get to use the heater, it does seem to be efficient and not use a lot of wood.
I was thinking that if you would of put in a baffle with secondary air intake the burner would be way way more efficient PERIOD. How thick is the propane tank steel wall thickness?? Nice work Sir.
1/8" will probably be fine for the ends. I used 1/4" because that is what I had available at the time. The propane tank itself is actually more than 1/4" thick. If you are planing on building a heater the same size as mine, you will probably want to increase the chimney size to 8" and also increase the damper size to increase the air flow. I will probably make those modifications to mine also.
@@medic91716 I am making one. I am having trouble finding a propane or fuel oil tank. I have the steel to make a square or rectangle one, but the round firebox has such clean lines to it.
thundersnowstorm I actually considered trying to incorporate a pizza oven into this project but as I progressed with the heater, I failed to leave enough room for cooking.
Because of the large size of the heater, I would have made made the stove pipe opening 8" instead of 6" and I would have made bigger damper openings. These are things that I will eventually modify. Even though it works fine like it is, I think it will work even better after these changes.
This is the same fan that I am using, just has a different brand name placed on it. I got it several years ago at WalMart. www.amazon.com/Stanley-655704-Velocity-Blower-Yellow/dp/B006O6FA22/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548859505&sr=8-3&keywords=blower+fan
Right now I have two 2" dampers. I would like to have at least 3 times that much so I won't have to crack the door open to get the fire going quicker. I might even add a small blower to force air in. But like I said earlier, I need to increase the chimney diameter also. I know there is a science to all of this, I just haven't got it down yet.
@@medic91716 my upper chamber actually FILLED UP with creosote and blocked the chimney. Cant figure out why. Do you think i took out too much heat? Do i need to add an "after burner"? Somehow....
Should have had those boiler tubes cladded in Inconel. They would have lasted a very long time. You will have to plug or cut out those tubes in a about 3-4 years.
when you fire u p your stove do you do like i do fillit up half way withnewspaper and kndling and let it burn for 10 to 15 minutes on high air and than fill up the stove with logs and keep it on high air in till it gets burning good than in dial it down the air
If you are asking about the tubes used for the heat exchange, the answer is no. Creosote does not build up inside of them because they are sealed off from the fire chamber. There may be some build up in the chimney pipe but no fire yet.
@@medic91716 .... My heat exchanger tubes condensed creosote on their outsides because the fan kept them cool. When the creosote caught fire one day on my unit and cracked all my welds. My next design will need to have a cleaning access door of some kind.
dear sir, I am Balamurugan. I need your help to design air heater.plz help me. air flow rate is 5000 kg/hr. it's to be heated upto 200 celsius. plz tell me dia and length of the stove, length and dia of the pipe. plz help me sir
Years later and still one of my favorite build videos. So cool!
Brilliant work, I love how well it all fits together, the door is perfect!
Well done. And you can't go wrong with the greatest band ever (Boston) playing to work to.
Thanks! The classic rock is always playing while I'm working in the shop.
Ron Strom area
One of the best heat ex-changers I've seen made. Good job on the build. Will definitely use your example in the future.
???What kind of insulation are you using on your shop walls?
Thanks!
@@michaelroyalty2584 I'm not sure what it's called but it looks like bubble wrap with foil on both sides. It's only about 1/4" thick.
Thank you for putting a duel temperature gauge there for all the world to see.
I too would like your specs! That's amazing and over built like everything should be. I like everything you've done way to go.
Thanks! Nice work! I bet it keeps you warm!
wow that is one hell of a heater that thing will heat a huge space very cool design great job
Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the well done videos. I think that heater would run me out of my little 25x30 shop. But I believe I can scale it down about 1/2 way.
Nice work. Thank you for putting your ideas out there.
Been looking all over for a video like this. Thanks. I will need to buy more toys. I mean tools. 🤙
Has anyone seen a heater like this for sale? I want to make it but time is a challenge. .
Yes, this is how I justify buying new tools.
@@youngrussel i think you can omitt the plasmacutter here if you buy one of those metal holesaws. so you need only a good drill, an anglegrinder and a migwelder
@@steffankaizer yes it would be a cheaper alternative, would need a high quality hole saw like a Lenox or a Milwaukee to get thru most of those holes provided you use cutting fluid.
How about a one year review ? Anything you would change ? Be awesome to see a secondary burn chamber if possible. Thanks for the video, very nice build sir. -4 f / -20c here in Canada right now AND IT SUCKS !!! .
Ron , thanks for sharing what and how you did it . Just finished mine and it works awesome.
Great!
Are you going to post a video of your heater?
I didn't do a video. I do have photos. Wanted to had them to your comment section but not able to .
Great build, only thing I would suggest adding is a diffuser plate on the pipes to prevent metal fatigue, I have fixed simular stoves and thats usually what happens to them, also a diffuser on the door to keep from warping it.
Thanks for the suggestions. Those are some things that I can add on and make the heater even better.
Very good presentation!
Thanks!
great build!
I'm glad I've got my powerplasma cutter. This would be a good project to use it on.
Perfect excuse to buy a new plasma cutter... “Honey, I need a new tool so I can build a heater... plus, I always wanted a new plasma cutter!” Lol.
Yep, next project will "require" a CNC plasma cutter.
@@medic91716 My thoughts exactly. "Darling, I NEED this." You could get it for her for your anniversary and then borry it, but I dunno.
Nice job. I need to build one of these this summer for my shop.
If you do, make the dampers and exhaust bigger than mine. Even though the heater works like it is, it could be better. I plan to modify later.
Make a video of the heater at work, awesome job.
great video I am building a similar one only square. I didn't have a propane tank. Thanks
Very nice heater with instructions. 👍🏽 Great build .!
Thanks!
That thing is a beast
Thanks for the comment.
I've seriously watched this video 6 times now. Best built wood stove that I've ever saw and I've saw a lot of them. Would you do anything different though or leave everything the same?
There are a few things that I would do different and I will make some modifications to the heater soon. Because of the size of the heater, I should have used 8" chimney pipe instead of 6" and I should have made larger damper openings. I also should have thought of a way to clean the creosote off of the heat exchanger tubes (see earlier comment from kahvac & Mark Turney). Even though the heater works very well, I think these modifications will make it much more efficient. Thanks for your comment!
Fantastic job
Very Nice work, excellent design, much appreciated
Thanks!
double thumbs up on your welding and video editing
Excellent build.
Terrific job there.
Thanks!
Great Worksmanship. Pure class right there. Thank you for sharing with the world. Very educational. Blessings, - r
Thanks for comment.
NICE JOB!! may be you can put a shield for the pipes....piece of blue stone...or some flat stone you can attach to it giving it some space off course...also you can put bricks or concrete blocks around it so you don't get burned and it can serve as a heat battery...softer heat than direct fire heat.
Thanks for your comment.
That is one powerful heater. Nice job my friend.
Thanks for the comment.
Отличная печь, спасибо за идею!
How has the door and the area surrounding the door been with warping. The door maybe could have had some angle iron welded to it to stiffen it up. The frame the door butts up against maybe some triangle gussets going from the door frame to the propane tank walls. Heat cycling from hot to cold does some strange things to metal from the resulting expansion and contracting. You have some great ideas tho in this build.
I haven’t had any trouble with warping due to normal operation of the heater. I honestly believe that welding on the door would probably cause more warping than building a fire in the heater.
From my machining days i was told to not try to use a fly cutter freehand. They should always be used in a drill press on clamped material. That can get off line, grab the work and twist the drill out of your had. The cutter can do a lot of damage. Not safe. Use a hole saw in that situation.
The stove is well done. Good design and good workmanship. I would have added an ash tray underneath the grate to make clean out easier. I also would have welded a flat plate on top for a teakettle .
Thanks for the safety tip. I always try to work safe. I would have used a hole saw but I couldn't find one that would cut the exact size needed.
Super cool !
Hello! To prevent the door of your furnace from bending from the high temperature of the flame, you can protect the door. 4 short bolts 1 inch long are welded on the inner wall of the door and another sheet of metal is welded to them a little smaller, this helps and prolongs the service life.
Thanks for the tip.
Guys like this are great!
Nice job! Just a helpful hint though. They have a handy dandy tool called a holesaw. Only buy Lenox or Milwaukee bits. They will cut through 1/2" plate no problem. But after you drill the 1/4" center guide hole put a piece of 1/4" rod in the holesaw bit holder. Because you'll break drill bits. And I didn't see your damper. You'll save a boatload of wood with a damper. Otherwise all the heat goes out the flue. And that's just wasteful. And use big wood in the big stove! That saves lots of wood also!
Thanks for the comments. There is a damper, it's just hard to see in the video. It is located in the stove pipe after it makes the 90 degree turn. As for the holesaw, that would probably make life easier but I was trying to get by with the tools that I currently have on hand.
Seems this would be a good candidate to add the ability to burn waste oil.
That addition would probably be relatively easy but I don’t have a good reliable source for waste oil.
Very nice job on your woodstove heat exchanger you sir I will follow your channel very nice job well done
And thank you
A nice build...at some point your going to need access to clean the outside of the heat exchanger tubes.
The middle tubes are almost impossible to clean. I'm sure you'll figure out a way... Thanks for sharing with us !
Your right, because I've got those tubes in there tight. I will have to start working on a solution for that immediately.
@@medic91716 if you build another one make another plate like the front and back with the pipe holes and place it inside loose on the pipes than attach a rod to it sticking out the front so you can move it front to back cleaning the pipes off. I've seen factory built heat exchangers designed like that.
@@allenmckinney9533 That is a great solution. Just use some lighter material.
Something comes to mind, I have no experience with it so I'm just thinking here. . . I see ads on TV all the time, creosote burning logs for reducing creosote in chimneys. Worth a try?
Will you be kind to show how did you clean the tank? Is there anything that you used to clean it? I have a small tank, it will provide the knowledge and information to consider before attempting to do anything. Much appreciated 🐾🐾🐾🐾
After removing the fittings from the tank, I cleaned the inside of the tank with degreaser and water, multiple times. I then placed the tank in a pile of tree limbs and brush and let it burn all night to remove the paint. You must make sure you have cleaned the inside of the tank completely. You should also remove the fittings so pressure can not build up in the tank and cause an explosion. Do all of this before getting it near any ignition source or cutting equipment. To add another level of safety, you can use non sparking tools until the tank is completely cleaned of gas. I have seen some other videos on how to safely prepare and gas tank for cutting. You may want to watch those also. You can never be too safe when working on a gas tank.
Thank you for your prompt reply. I will consider and follow your suggestion. It has to be thoroughly clean; very well done your video and well explained. Much appreciated 🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾😘😘😘😘
If you have a small tank hundred gallons or so just fill it with water clear to the top. Then you know there's no propane or any other fuel left to blow your face off!
Great heat-exchangers! I'll bet that sucker rocks!
Great looking heater would love to have one but my shop is not insulated and roof is metal and it rains on you when you heat it with anything
Sounds like you're shit out of luck.
That's impressive. To big for my small, well insulated barn . I need something small like a tent heater or maybe an ammunition box/wood heater . Thanks
Nice job. However you could have encased the barrel and used it as the airbox deleting the 55 gal drum and making the unit much safer. Great job though.
I enjoyed this how to...
tremendous build, nice shop...
Well that's just a great heater bud. Kind of makes me wonder why all of them aren't made this way...lol
Great job! I plan to build a similar heater, but force that hot air coming out from those pipes into a 8x8 steel structure . I think it would get hot enough to sterilize firewood (190 degrees) as well as dry it out pretty quick - essentially heating a firewood kiln. Do you think that would work - if you directed all that heat into an area that size? If that was your goal, would you do anything else or anything different? Thanks and great job by the way Also, anybody else that may read this and has an idea, please mention it.
That might work for an 8X8 room as long as it is well insulated or summer time.
If you are planing on building a heater the same size as mine, you will probably want to increase the chimney size to 8" and also increase the damper size to increase the air flow. I will probably make those modifications to mine also.
@@medic91716 good thinkin and thanks
@@Brian-mc4pd did you ever start or attempt this ? I am thinking the exact same as you. Be interested to know what happened.
What brand of building do you have as a shop with steel rafters? Nice shop !
It’s just a pole barn. No particular brand.
A double box wood stove w no pipes may do the same thing?
That would probably work as long as you had a good blower moving the air.
Cool. Good job sir
Thanks for the comment.
Nice work. Thanks!
Thanks!
Really enjoyed the video just subscribed to your channel
Thanks!
What a build!!! Great video camera work as well! Are you a welder for your day job? Thank you.
Full time Paramedic.
@@medic91716 respect to you sir.
Hi I made my wood Furness 50" long so standard pallet boards will fit with out cutting them shorter.
Good idea.
what pipe did u use for exchangers
Ya gota love a tractor with a boom crane
Very handy!
Hello Ron, could you please tell me what is the efficiency of this stove ??? How big is your shop in square feet ??? How much wood do you burn in a average year ???? Thanks
My shop is 30’X36’ and the heater warms it very well when temperatures are in the low 30s. I only heat the shop on the few days that I actually get to go down and work and I live in Mississippi where it was 60 degrees 3 days ago and 30 degrees today so it would be hard to determine how much wood it would burn if it was used on a more regular basis. But to answer your question the best way I can, on the cold days that I get to use the heater, it does seem to be efficient and not use a lot of wood.
@@medic91716 Thanks Ron for the information fella.
I was thinking that if you would of put in a baffle with secondary air intake the burner would be way way more efficient PERIOD. How thick is the propane tank steel wall thickness??
Nice work Sir.
Great job... And. Yanmar tractor 😁
Nice job. What's the lube you use for your bandsaw?
CRC cutting oil from Harbor Freight.
@@medic91716 thanks Ron
is this could be used for home heating ?
Do you think the end pieces needed to be 1/4 inch even though all the rest was 1/8 aka 11 gauge?
1/8" will probably be fine for the ends. I used 1/4" because that is what I had available at the time. The propane tank itself is actually more than 1/4" thick. If you are planing on building a heater the same size as mine, you will probably want to increase the chimney size to 8" and also increase the damper size to increase the air flow. I will probably make those modifications to mine also.
@@medic91716 I am making one. I am having trouble finding a propane or fuel oil tank. I have the steel to make a square or rectangle one, but the round firebox has such clean lines to it.
@@chadhanson3431 what about an old air compressor tank?
Have you thought of putting a cooking plate or rack on top of your heater stove?
thundersnowstorm I actually considered trying to incorporate a pizza oven into this project but as I progressed with the heater, I failed to leave enough room for cooking.
The shirt you are wearing, that wouldn't be Farmington Pa would it?
Farmington, Mississippi. A slightly warmer climate.
Nice build
11:02 last time I heard something like that I was in a public restroom.
Right before you quickly headed for the door.
lets see you make a viedo of you firing up the wood stove
What gauge steel tube did you use ? I have a double barrel stove I wouldn’t mind adding tubes to. Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure what gauge it is but the tube wall is very close to 1/8" thick.
Ron Strom thank you sir!
Yup nice job sir
💪😁. I like it.
Thanks for the comment.
I’m thinking of building shop heater just like yours, any advice or things you would do differently if you had it to do over again. Thanks in advance
Because of the large size of the heater, I would have made made the stove pipe opening 8" instead of 6" and I would have made bigger damper openings. These are things that I will eventually modify. Even though it works fine like it is, I think it will work even better after these changes.
what are you using for your welder?
I am using two different welders. One is a Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 170 Amp mig welder and the other is a Lincoln stick welder.
A wise man once told me “if you think that plasma is good enough, get the bigger one”. Sumbitch do I wish I would have listened.
Good advice for sure.
Nice Job
Thanks
Great video love all the info ! What is that fan called , and where to buy a fan ?
This is the same fan that I am using, just has a different brand name placed on it. I got it several years ago at WalMart.
www.amazon.com/Stanley-655704-Velocity-Blower-Yellow/dp/B006O6FA22/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548859505&sr=8-3&keywords=blower+fan
Thank you so much for your input . how big on dampers ? I am also building my shop heater out of 500 gal propane like you did
Right now I have two 2" dampers. I would like to have at least 3 times that much so I won't have to crack the door open to get the fire going quicker. I might even add a small blower to force air in. But like I said earlier, I need to increase the chimney diameter also. I know there is a science to all of this, I just haven't got it down yet.
just started my templet went with 5 in dampers and im also putting a ash tray right below the door, so if I need more air I can open it@@medic91716
Hello Sir.. I learn a lot from this video. Could you please share the dimensioning if possible Sir..? I want the create mine based on yours..
you should maker a viedo of you f\iring up your wood stove and filling it with wood
Did you have any trouble with creosote building up on the heat exchangers?
I have seen some minor buildup but not enough to cause any problems.
@@medic91716 my upper chamber actually FILLED UP with creosote and blocked the chimney. Cant figure out why.
Do you think i took out too much heat?
Do i need to add an "after burner"? Somehow....
@@kennruckey Are you burning well seasoned wood? Green wood will cause more buildup.
@@medic91716 actually burning pallets...
@@kennruckey www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-98-Creosote-Remover/dp/B00120NNCY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=53568467502&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvPbypnPC3bkkl-e0RKkCCyQ78FvsXHHPrSRAOrTn4jJPcBRQRnP7dkaApdGEALw_wcB&hvadid=409947738703&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9013807&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13080772659312009692&hvtargid=kwd-337609910531&hydadcr=13571_11413583&keywords=creosote+powder&qid=1612840871&sr=8-3&tag=hydsma-20
Should have had those boiler tubes cladded in Inconel. They would have lasted a very long time. You will have to plug or cut out those tubes in a about 3-4 years.
Thanks for the tip.
How does that home made stove work with the insurance company??
Not sure about that. This heater should be as safe as any other as long as the stove pipe is properly attached.
When I inquired with my insurance about a homemade wood stove in my shop, that was a very quick "no, we will not cover it" from my agent.
Fill the tank with water. It'll push the gas out
CO2 is a lot less messy
What tractor model is that?
I like it, but I would rather have it with a pellet hopper attached so it would feed automatically.
That would be convenient, but would the pellets produce the flames required to heat the tubes to the desired temperature?
What are the measurements??
How much to make us one.
I won't have time to build another one anytime soon.
Superb
when you fire u p your stove do you do like i do fillit up half way withnewspaper and kndling and let it burn for 10 to 15 minutes on high air and than fill up the stove with logs and keep it on high air in till it gets burning good than in dial it down the air
I don't use any news paper. I just put some kindling in the heater, stack some logs on top, then light it up.
No, No, No Sir, not 480p video quality, this video deserves 1080p in 2018!
Yes, I do need better video equipment.
What kind of pipe for the heat exchanger
Not sure what schedule it is. It's 2" pipe that has about 1/8'" wall thickness. It was actually being sold as scrap at the local steel yard.
nice build you are a master craftsman I would hire you on the spot if I was steal fad shop
Thanks for the compliment. You probably wouldn't say that if you saw all of the mistakes and trial & error that I edited out of this video.
Have you had a creosote fire from the deposits on the tubes yet?
If you are asking about the tubes used for the heat exchange, the answer is no. Creosote does not build up inside of them because they are sealed off from the fire chamber. There may be some build up in the chimney pipe but no fire yet.
@@medic91716 ....
My heat exchanger tubes condensed creosote on their outsides because the fan kept them cool. When the creosote caught fire one day on my unit and cracked all my welds. My next design will need to have a cleaning access door of some kind.
@@deerlakediver5554 I haven't use my heater enough for that much creosote to buildup. Thanks for letting me know what to watch out for.
dear sir, I am Balamurugan. I need your help to design air heater.plz help me. air flow rate is 5000 kg/hr. it's to be heated upto 200 celsius. plz tell me dia and length of the stove, length and dia of the pipe. plz help me sir
👍
Diamentions please
Fill it with water before (as) you cut that tank
Yes, that would add another element of safety.
@@medic91716 or CO2