Three Easy Repairs | Ultrasonic Machine | SR16 Drum Machine | Bosch Reciprocating saw
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2023
- Not 1, not 2, but 3 repairs in one video!
I repaired a few different items, that were all fairly easy repairs. They were too short for a video, so I made a video containing all three of them.
Hope you enjoy!
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Music from UA-cam Library:
Lazy River Rag - Dan Lebowitz
#electronicsrepair #electronics #repair
Bosch Reciprocating saw repair
Repairing a Bosch Reciprocating Saw
Bosch Reciprocating Saw not working
Alesis SR16 Teardown
Faulty Alesis SR16 Drum Machine
Drum Machine no power
Drum Machine not switching on
Drum Machine not turning on - Навчання та стиль
I love how quickly you decided to open up the first repair without actually needing to lol. True tinkerer/technician behavior 😁
Oh yes, that's half the fun! Seeing what inside! 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit As another youtuber puts it - Don't turn it on, take it apaaaart...
😂😂😂👍
NIce fixess again.
With the drumcomputer you can actually use DC power on the AC input. The rectifier just rectifies again.
You can remove the diodes ofcourse the prevent any power drop. DC power bricks are easier to get a hold on nowadays.
Thanks 👍I wasn't sure if it used the AC for timing or if it generated a negative voltage for the OP amps with it. I've got a 24v AC PLC and that doesn't work on DC when I tried it.
That was nice! 3 repairs in 1 video! Thank you, Mick!
Glad you liked it!
To remove the gear from the motor shaft, a bit of heat to ease the Loctite should have worked if that's what they used. Same would apply if it was a press fit gear. When turning it backwards? is sounded as though the brushes were being tortured by the commutator. But it works again, so a great result 👍
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.
Thanks Pete👍
would really like to see an autopsy of the motor :D nevertheless another good one cheers !
Thanks 🙂Cheers for watching 👍
Nicely done Mick.
Thanks Vince 🙂👍
Good fixes. And well done Bosch for making a tool that is easy to disassemble and uses standard motor!
Thanks Mike 👍
buy it fix it resale it 😌
😂😂😂😂
A switch mode PSU is probably too noisy for an ultrasound machine.
It could well be the case. The medical ultrasound I had a look at a while ago uses a SMPS although it is external.
WOW, the power of the Internet, I have been fiddling with 2 fishing bite indicators while watching this. Neither working at all, despite new battery. Now 1 working properly and the other the lights work but no buzzer. No idea what I did to fix them though except take them to bits and rub the boards a bit 🙂Think you have fixed them by proxy.
😂😂😂😂😂
last one was great. love watching the impossible.
Thanks 👍
You are correct about that dodgy plug, no way I would use any appliance with an unfused plug, I wonder if the missing contact is still stuck in the socket where it was last used?
Made of the best Chineseium, no wonder it just fell apart 🤣
😂😂😂😂 yes I was wondering if it was still lodged in a socket somewhere....
Where else besides the UK do they use fused plugs? I don't recall ever seeing them anywhere but there.
A quick google search says Only the UK, and other countries rely on the consumer unit. The maximum fuse in a plug is 13A and often on a 32A beaker in the consumer unit and wired as a ring main with other outlets. I guess if the cable was rated at a couple of amps as in a lamp for instance and it got damaged, the fuse in the plug would blow instead of sending 32A down a cable rated for couple of amps.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah, maybe remnants of times past with fuses in the CSU and the prevent blowing the whole circuit? Cheaper to replace a device fuse than the ring main, maybe.... Now with breakers just an old regulation. Not a bad idea by any means though to have the devices fused.
In US you can have 25A branch circuits and devices you plug in can have #18 AWG (1mm or so) and you never hear of things melting down. Here in Vietnam, same thing up to 32A, but way more electrical scaries here! No grounds / earth. TT system, not a TN-C (or C-S). So of course, no PME either. But, has it's advantages too, less fault current, but that can also cause breakers not to trip. Pros and cons to all systems. RCDs are becoming more widespread now here too. No regulation as far as I know, but I do recommend and install a lot of them. The price difference for an RCD here VS RCD (GFI) in the US is crazy. $10 USD here vs $100+ USD in the US. From same manufacturer too!
Wow expensive. We have RCDs here too. Normally a main one in the fuse box that is connected to all of the other circuits.
Thanks! Really enjoy watching you work on things and trouble shooting them no matter how simple the repair maybe.
Thanks🙂👍
Won't the drum kit work on DC too? If you rectify DC, you get DC. Internally, the drum kit has a discrete rectifier. Thanks for another great video.
I wasn't sure if it used the AC for timing or if it generated a negative voltage for the OP amps with it. I've got a 24v AC PLC and that doesn't work on DC when I tried it.
The fact it does not have a UK compliant plug on it would have meant I'd have binned it. Chances if they skimped on the safety of the plug the rest of it is also unsafe garbage.
Yeah it's not great. The rest of it is probably ok, as it has a transformer for the power supply, so it *should be isolated from the mains. It's not mine anyway and was only helping out a friend. Hopefully he doesn't cook anyone from the inside out 😂😂😂
@6:18 - I've a full Alesis Nitro mesh set at home and I absolutely LOVE it. I think their products are decent for the value.
Always nice to see stuff brought back to life. I think in some cases you can use DC instead of AC if the unit does have a rectifier.
The voltages may be a little lower using a DC psu, also some items may need both negative and posative voltages so they may not work either.
I'm not sure if this uses the AC to create a negative supply for the op amps.
It will do. The 2 diodes are providing 2 half wave rectified outputs, one for the + output, one for the - output. The 2 large capacitors will be smoothing the outputs.
you da man
Thanks Matt👍
Great entertainment 😀 thanks again Mick
My pleasure👍
By placing a 3A fuse in the plug while having a 3A fuse in the box, you created a race condition. Having a 4A or 5A fuse in the plug, that one would blow only if the internal one fales to do its job. As far as I understood, many plugs have standard even a very overrated 16A in the plug.
I even think 3A is probably too much for this device. 3A x 240V =720W. I mean you used to get 700w microwave ovens and unless this thing cooks the victim from the inside out? 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit What I did mean to say that if in case of a short on the board, now one of the two 3A fuses will blow, but you can not predict which one. So having a higher amp value in the plug will lead to blowing the internal one which one would inspect most likely first. And yes 3A is very overrated for this machine unless it has a high rush in current.
Ah right. Thanks Jan 👍
Isn't the drum machine rectifying the AC anyway? So you could use a 9V DC power supply with it
Yes, but I'm pretty sure it's rectified by the two diodes inside into a split supply so you end up with positive and negative voltages for the DAC and op amps.
Always fun. Nicely done!
Thanks Kenny 👍Very poetic 😂😂😂
Nice easy fixes! Looks like one of your meter leads may be going bad too. All the readings were finicky, unless just jumpy fingers.
Yeah I think I need to check the leads 👍
Brilliant repairs as always. You always make it look so easy.
Thanks Rory Rory 👍
Well done, worthwhile repairs of stuff otherwise headed for landfill. I did like the right-hand index finger reciprocating saw test method (18:45), don't try that at home. There's never a steady supply of fins when you need them (23:35), ho, ho.
Thanks Ralph 👍😂😂😂
Not sure if you are aware, you can put a dc current into an account circuit if it uses a bridge rectifier. But not actually into a dc circuit.
Yes, but somethings still don't work. For instance I've got a 24v AC PLC and a 12v DC one. Both very similar. The AC one wouldn't work on DC. Also some of the chips in the drum machine use a negative voltage which I think is why they used an AC adapter.
Nice, as much as we enjoy a puzzle a few easy fixes in a row is good for the soul ! Regarding the AC supply I would not have the patience to dig around for one and just stuffed 9v DC in ! just don't do it the other way round lol !....cheers.
Thanks 🙂👍I wasn't 100% if it used the AC to generate a negative voltage for the OP amps.
Oh Ok good point but whenever I see A Burr Brown Chp I think good quality and expensive ! @@BuyitFixit
Did you replaced the motor wires in the same order? If not, it could run backwards which you would not notice as the saw connection moves only up and down, but the interal mechanism could not like it and wear down more early.
Yes, both motors had a red dot on the terminals marking the polarity 👍
Another brilliant video 👍
Thanks Darren 👍
hey thanks for all your vids.. love to see a genius at work.. With the drum machine there's the 9V AC input power supply. How does the power section on the main board work to provide dc with two diodes which impiles full wave rectifier .. but you need centre tapped AC for that. There are two diodes... so does that mean the ac is halfwave rectified for two rails? and the AC- is that used as is within the drum machine? If not you could use a dc mains adapter - the dc would just sail through the rectifier diodes and all would be well. Maybe opamps and DAC's require the AC rails..but they then need the 'middle' 0V don't they? Sorry questions and no answers.
I think I found someone else working on one on UA-cam and there were some negative voltages required for the op-amps or it might have been the DAC. I assumed that's why they had the AC input. Hope that helps.
I just looked up that ultrasonic device. The manual is... interesting shall we say. I'm not sure if I'm smelling snake oil with that device.
I'm sure they recommend it as a lubricant for the probes 😂😂😂😂
Ali sells it with the 775 motor and gear assembled, so buy it with that.
Thanks. I did see some with the gear fitted, but none of them had the correct number of teeth.
||Disregard this, I forgot that audio mostly need + and - voltages|| You can just use a 12Vdc adapter or bench power supply when a device needs 9Vac ;) it can be in some cases it needs the 50Hz sine todo some stuff, but in most cased an higher voltage DC adapter on an low power AC device works fine ;)
I wasn't sure if it split the supply into a positive and negative voltage for the OP amps as some audio stuff does that.
3 fixes in one video that's a great deal, I always wondered how people manage to break the legs on the plugs. The saw didn't make a lot of noise, is it just a "weaker" saw or did the just make a saw that doesn't sound like a jet engine, but keep up the great work 😁
Thanks Morten 👍Yes I'm not sure how the plug got snapped either. It needed changed anyway for a proper plug instead of that garbage one.
Three. Easy. Repairs. Ultrasonic. Machine. SR16. Drum. Machine
Good job mate 👍👍👍
Thanks John 👍
I like these type of videos and keep them coming.
Thanks 👍
Great video !!
Thanks mate 👍
Hey, a fresh one
Hot off the press 😂😂😂
Nice work 👏 👌
Thanks 👍
You could use any (9 x sqr 2)12Vdc/enough amps adapter as the rectifier bridge on the board will take care of the right polarity on the system. The only fail could be when the system makes use of the 50Hz for one or the other clock or synchronisation.
I wasn't sure if it used the AC to create a split supply as I know some chips in the unit require a negative voltage.
For fine stranded conductors class 5 and above for use with screw terminals bootlace ferrules should be used to no only protect the conductors from the screw but also to ensure a good electrical connection as the conductors will splay out under the screw causing only partial contact with the conductor reducing the current carrying capacity.
As the plug was non compliant I would be that the conductors used in the flex are copper coated aluminium so I would be checking if it is capable of carrying the current the load requires.
Thanks. I was taught back in the day to tin the wires with solder. I did mention this one someone else's video (could have been one of my mate Vince's) and had a few comments saying it wasn't needed 🤷♂️
@18:08 - There is a tiny surface mount pot in the machine. I wonder if that controls the contrast for the screen?
I might have a look. The contrast did look slightly weak but it also depended on the angle you were looking at it.
Apparently CE can stand for 'China Export'. It's a very similar logo but not quite the same! Loving your channel btw 😊
Thanks Alan. Hmm pure coincidence that made a sticker called 'China Export' with a similar font to another sticker. I mean the Chinese would never try to pull one over on the buyers 😂😂😂
Yes, but ... only UK plugs are fused as far as I know. At least in Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany and France I have not seen any fused plugs, so I doubt that having a fuse in a plug would be required for a genuine CE label.
Nice fairly simple fixes :) I wonder why a few fins were damaged on that motor 🤔
Looked melted in places, so I think it distorted and the caught, snapping them off. Either that or debris got in there.
👌👌
👍👍🙂
Can't you put dc into a power socket that is expecting AC, so the diodes simply pass the current in one direction rather than switching it around the bridge?
It depends I think this was using the AC to generate a split supply for negative voltage for the DAC and OP amps.
Nice fixes, hope to see that Commodore 64 in a future video :)
I've got a few of them. Bought a job lot with some disc drives about 5 or 6 years back. A few have missing chips etc.
What was the swop-over red switch on the other side for? Surely not reversing the direction 🙂 Very nice repairs!
Thanks 👍It was marked normal or turbo so I think it swaps a gear over for the speed.
This seems like a problem sometimes with newly uploaded videos, where the closed captions don't work at first, and then they magically fix themselves.
I'll try in 45 minutes and hope the captions magically appear.
I work in a sometimes loud environment, so i often rely on the closed captions to "hear" what you say.
I'll try again later though, because it seems to fix itself after awhile on some newly uploaded videos.
Or I'll watch this later at home.
Looks like an interesting selection of items.
Thanks, yes UA-cam automatically generates them so I guess that takes some time.
Hi
Would you be interested in looking at a heat induction tool and a snap-on timing light.
Cheers maz
Funny enough I had just been bidding on an induction tool yesterday on Ebay. Are you in the UK?
@@BuyitFixit
Hi
Yes westmidlands
@@mariotripicchio8430 Drop me an email, the address is in the channel about page under 'contact ' and 'for business enquiries ' it doesn't show on mobile only on laptop (something to do with UA-cam and not me).
🐨This device should more than likely draw well under 500 milliamps when operating properly,
NOW... See that transformer @4:19, Well that suckers primary winding should burnout at
around about an amp, 2 amps tops if it's maximum and I stress it's maximum current draw is
exceeded.
Having said that, this would make any fuse greater than 1.5 amps redundant so I suspect some
hack couldn't get their mitz on a properly rated fuse and therefore that massive 3 Amp fuse was
installed, and as a comparison my 250Wrms Subwoofer uses a 5 Amp fuse at 240V.
BTW there is a formula to calculate the transformers specifications if the various voltages
and nominal current draw is known if one wishes to protect the supply transformer without it
burning out the fuse prematurely.
APU 👁👉👍👈
Agree I was just chatting to someone else earlier in the comments who suggested putting a larger fuse in the plug than the one in the unit, but even 3a when I worked it out would 720w at 240v. Perhaps it's more of a microwave device that cooks the victim from the inside 😂😂😂 but serious I can't see it drawing much at all. I think a 1A fuse would be more than adequate.
The drum machine - backup battery - is too low - below 3.05v usually means it is almost flat…. Needs replacing… I change the coin cells at less than 3.1v…
Thanks for that.I just did a quick search on the voltage curve, bearing in mind that this is still in circuit, 2.8v and below is what it suggests for replacement.
@@BuyitFixit I used to work with repairing computers, and when the battery was below 3.1v, you would get weird errors. The practice was to change the battery if below 3.1 v, and reset the cmos memory, and this fixed 90% of the weird errors. The battery may not be flat, but the rest of the circuits may not be happy with a low voltage…
@@markfiddament9383 Fair enough 🙂 I used to repair and build computers too. First one I build was a 386sx25 with 4mb ram and a 20gb MFM hdd, and an adlib sound card 😂😂 The first computer I learned to program on was a Nascom2 that a friend built around 1980
I love your content. One issue is the echo in your recordings. Could you try to remove the room echo? A better microphone setup maybe?
Is that in the workshop bit? I was using a different camera which unfortunately doesn't have external microphone input, and it's a shed made out of metal sheets so it does echo a bit in there. The other parts should be fine as I've got an external Rode microphone (I did a video on repairing 2 of them a few videos back).
@@BuyitFixit Yes the sound in the shed was bad and in the house (with Røde mic) good.
Thanks 👍
I read somewhere China uses C E not to be confused with CE , claiming it to stand for Chinese export. Right.....
Yes exactly 😂😂😂
what is the part number of bosch motor or could you please give the aliexpress link
Hi, I've just checked in my order history and I'm pretty sure this was it. www.aliexpress.com/item/4001303524245.html
The following transistors burned out on my cordless drill:
T244 BV6416
and
T244 BV6317
I am interested in which replacement to buy, and whether it is important to look at this other number (BV6317 etc...)? Is there another one?
Are those the numbers on the PCB or on the circuit board? None of those numbers seem to fetch anything up on a search.
I guess it's an Einhell drill. I did find a reddit post from a few years back where someone else had the same issue, and they were thinking the mosfets were IRFZ44VPBF www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/klq4yf/replacement_mosfet_for_einhell_brushless_dc_drill/
Will IRF3205PBF MOSFET or IRFZ44N MOSFET work instead of these burned out.
Hard to say because we don't know the specifications of the original mosfets. The IRFZ44N might work but I can't say 100%
@@BuyitFixit Okay tnx for answering, im gona order 3 x IRFZ44N, 3 x IRF3205PBF, 3 x IRFZ44VPBF(i found it). In Serbia is so cheap 1 mosfet is like 20 cents.
Just FYI you couldn’t use 9 V DC or AC it wouldn’t of mattered
Thanks 👍I wasn't sure if it used the AC for timing or if it generated a negative voltage for the OP amps with it. I've got a 24v AC PLC and that doesn't work on DC when I tried it.
I would get rid of the cheap illegal Chinese mains plug.
Yes I usually do. Mostly the plugs I've came across were on leads so I just binned the lead and used a decent one.
What was it you sprayed on the drum machines volume knob to clean it?
Electrical contact cleaner 🙂
i have ashton drum module problem sound slow and something not stable power...power on then a minute display gone...do u know how to fix
what part need check...already check 4 times but no answers
sorry i dont have basic electronic but i want learn and repair
can i send photo then u mark what part need check
Sure, send me an email it's the channel name at out look dot com.
@@BuyitFixit done send sir
Yes you have to be careful with the CE mark. That was a fake but in China they have their own registered CE mark where the E is embedded into the C, it looks similar but does not register as European conformity
Thanks Tony 👍
Some say it stands for Chinese Export, but I'm more leaning towards Caveat Emptor ..
CE standing for Chinese Export? those plugs are gross!
Yes, they are 🤮😂😂😂
CE =Chinese export
😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit Hi if you look at the European CE mark you will see it is a different shape than the Chinese CE (Chinese Export) they do it to kid people into thinking it has European Certification also if you see any of them unfused plugs chop them off.
Oh right, I didn't know that. I thought they were copying the European CE mark, which I guess they are in a way... Yes, I've had a couple of devices with those horrible plugs on. I usually change the lead for a decent one or as you recommended too, chop off the plug and fit a fused one.
Needs changed?!
Needs replaced?!
WTF?!
Different parts of the world say things slightly differently to what may be considered grammatically correct. Slang, dialects etc. At the end of the day, my videos are about repairing items, and are not lessons in English or Grammar.
How nice to see another dangerous and completely illegal chinese plug on that Ultrasonic unit! Is the CE label "Conformity European" (in French!) and tested or China Export which isn't? I would suspect the lead is very thin copper plated aluminium too so I'd change that. In addition it should be three core (earthed) as the transformer bolts are contactable and I would be 90% sure that the insulation will not conform to double earthing requirements. Basically electrically unsafe!
The cable actually didn't look too bad. When I've had items in the past with these plugs,it's usually on a lead. I just bin the lead and use a proper one 😂😂
We all know what CE labels mean.. Absolutely nothing, as all the dodgy Chinese stuff has got those stickers on too.. 😂
Yes "China Export" is what some people have said it is supposed to mean yet a very similar label.
cheap fake fare east copy