As I can see we have the same soldering station. That is an Atten model isn't it? Great video by the way. I am new in electronics even if I have a degree in electrical engineering. Well done for your video sir. Keep going :)
Looks like a fairly decent PSU The only _feature_ of any significance that is missing is that it doesn't seem to have '4-wire' (kelvin?) mode on each channel. (4-wire mode is quite useful for me to eliminate voltage droop on the cabling if the load is quite heavy). I'd like to see you perform a 'load test' on this PSU across the FULL output voltage range. Some PSUs don't do a very good job of regulation when the output is low voltage at max current! Also, I'd like to see you test how many taps there are on each channels transformer winding. My PSU uses 10VAC, 20VAC and 30VAC (nominal). The more taps it has, the less heat needs to be dissipated internally at the lower end of each winding. (Imagine setting it to 12VDC at the full 3A. It uses the 20VAC winding giving you 20 * 1.414 = 28V input (nominal) into the series regulator.. At the full 3A, this means the series regulator needs to dissipate the difference (28V - 12V = 16V) at 3A so it's wasting 48W as heat! More transformer taps -> less internal heat generation. (The _NEXT_ PSU I build will have winding taps every 5V)
Im guessing it would need a second rear pannel output to be able to put it in 4 wire kelvin mode but it doesnt have this. I have just purchased a DC load so at some point i will try and do a teardown and some load testing
@@JFIXX1 I'm guessing that my own personal requirements for a PSU are a little 'tighter' than the more common (a.k.a. 'affordable') units. I required a clean (hence linear) PSU that could deliver quite a decent current (5 amps) at precise low voltages (below 2V) where the actual load could vary SIGNIFICANTLY within a very short time period. The closest commercial unit I could find (HP 6600 series) completely blew my budget , so I had to roll my own. Still, it'd be great if you to do a teardown and load-test so that OTHER people could better judge how good this supply is before buying one. Keep up the good work!
Can you increase the voltage and/or wattage and/or amperage while you have the leads connected to a pcb or another device? It looks a promising device/ Does it come with 2 or it comes with 4 channels only? Cheers
@@aremaka4438 Yes you can change voltage or current while the output is still live. They do also do a 3 channel version. The 3 channel is HDP4324 and the 4 channel is HDP4424 Here is the link and you can see both options if you select s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EHED2sL
As I can see we have the same soldering station. That is an Atten model isn't it? Great video by the way. I am new in electronics even if I have a degree in electrical engineering. Well done for your video sir. Keep going :)
@@aremaka4438 My soldering station is Aixun T420 I have made a video about it. Electronics is fun especially if you can build or fix something!
Looks like a fairly decent PSU
The only _feature_ of any significance that is missing is that it doesn't seem to have '4-wire' (kelvin?) mode on each channel.
(4-wire mode is quite useful for me to eliminate voltage droop on the cabling if the load is quite heavy).
I'd like to see you perform a 'load test' on this PSU across the FULL output voltage range. Some PSUs don't do a very good job of regulation when the output is low voltage at max current!
Also, I'd like to see you test how many taps there are on each channels transformer winding. My PSU uses 10VAC, 20VAC and 30VAC (nominal). The more taps it has, the less heat needs to be dissipated internally at the lower end of each winding. (Imagine setting it to 12VDC at the full 3A. It uses the 20VAC winding giving you 20 * 1.414 = 28V input (nominal) into the series regulator.. At the full 3A, this means the series regulator needs to dissipate the difference (28V - 12V = 16V) at 3A so it's wasting 48W as heat! More transformer taps -> less internal heat generation. (The _NEXT_ PSU I build will have winding taps every 5V)
Im guessing it would need a second rear pannel output to be able to put it in 4 wire kelvin mode but it doesnt have this. I have just purchased a DC load so at some point i will try and do a teardown and some load testing
@@JFIXX1
I'm guessing that my own personal requirements for a PSU are a little 'tighter' than the more common (a.k.a. 'affordable') units. I required a clean (hence linear) PSU that could deliver quite a decent current (5 amps) at precise low voltages (below 2V) where the actual load could vary SIGNIFICANTLY within a very short time period.
The closest commercial unit I could find (HP 6600 series) completely blew my budget , so I had to roll my own.
Still, it'd be great if you to do a teardown and load-test so that OTHER people could better judge how good this supply is before buying one.
Keep up the good work!
Those wires from the set of plugs connectors are quite thin and I don't know how will handle high current
@SymbolTech21 Thanks I will keep looking to see if there are better quality options
@@JFIXX1 yes better just check the table sheet with cable gauge and amp handling and you can have a better idea on which cable to get
Can you increase the voltage and/or wattage and/or amperage while you have the leads connected to a pcb or another device? It looks a promising device/ Does it come with 2 or it comes with 4 channels only?
Cheers
@@aremaka4438 Yes you can change voltage or current while the output is still live.
They do also do a 3 channel version. The 3 channel is HDP4324 and the 4 channel is HDP4424
Here is the link and you can see both options if you select
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EHED2sL
@@JFIXX1 you're a star. Cheers ☺️