Faulty Tascam DR-701D Digital 6 Track Sound Recorder | Can I FIX It!
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2024
- In this video we're going to be taking a look at a TASCAM DR-701D 6 Track Digital Sound Recorder. I came across it on eBay and looked quite interesting so I bought it! I had no idea what it was or what it was used for at the time, but let's see if we can figure out what's wrong with it and hopefully repair it!
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
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#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair
TASCAM DR-701D Repair
TASCAM DR-701D Teardown
TASCAM DR-701D Disassembly
TASCAM DR-701D White screen
TASCAM DR-701D Blank Screen
TASCAM DR-701D Faulty
Repairing a TASCAM DR-701D
How to fix a TASCAM DR-701D - Навчання та стиль
The fact that you got this thing back together again, is miraculous.
😂😂Thanks 👍
Well carrying on from your last Evil Genius video, you have just re proved your Evil Geniusness in using ALL Red wires. Always makes me smile in the films when they get to the "do I cut the Green or the Red" as if there is a intergalactic agreement for which colour wire to use where 🙂I now have a whole new respect for you. Also need to ask, did you wire up my Land Rover Trialer? All the wires on that inside were Red 🙂
😂😂😂Cheers Chris 👍
I love your videos where you have to make some generic replacement part work for a repair. Hats off to you for your ingenuity on this sort of fix. I was amused by the "Waiting for comments" on the hot glue fix. Hey - it's a damn good fix! If you ever watch Electronics Repair School, Sorin manages to fix broken laptop hinges and all sorts with hot glue. At least you can get hot glue off or re-work the stuff fairly easily later down the line. Keep up the really entertaining videos.
Thanks 👍Sometimes you have to get creative 😂😂 I was fixing my oil boiler last night at 1:30AM as it had stopped working and was just buzzing and tripping the electric. Turned out to be the startup capacitor on the blower motor. I ordered one but it's going to take a few days to get here.. so I had a look around and found one on an old bench grinder.. fitted that.. 2AM working boiler again 😂😂😂😂
I like your fearless approach to repair. The freeze spray was a neat trick. I thought to myself...yeah, right, that will never work. And then it did. Well done!
Thanks 👍🙂
My very first job was as an electronic technician working for a company that built elevator control boards. At that time it was all TTL 74 series logic. We would use cold spray to diagnose intermittents. Worked almost every time!
Nice👍 I've used it a few times over the years, especially on old TV's
Oh No, Duracells😮 All of that disassembly and only two screws left over, bravo man. Your skills leave me in awe, what a complicated piece just to take apart. Troubleshooting the screen was genius, never would of thought of internal temperature causing failure. Great repair as always, thanks for the work.
Thanks Terry 👍Someone pointed out the two screws were from the display that I was unable to re-fit due to the size of the PCB 🙂
Spraying freezing liquid onto a chip to temporarily revive it, never seen that trick before. Brilliant video as usual.
Thanks 👍works for capacitors sometimes too. I used it a few times on old TVs where things like the top half of the screen would stretch when it was warm.
@@BuyitFixit😅 Missed that. Was it " wurth" ice off?
@@BuyitFixit 👍
You can also use a can of lighter gas and hold upside down, but it’s a bit more Dangerous 😂
@@wisher21uk take fumes down and hold breath for as long as possible.😉
Brilliant videos as always mate look forward to watching you every Saturday
Thanks Dominic 👍
Watching you is never boring fantastic video
Cheers George, I wasn't sure if this one was a bit boring or not, as there was a lot of disassembly and re-assembly, but I left most of that in just in case anyone has a faulty one and wanted to try and repair it as I don't think anyone else has repaired one of these.
Display would probably be the last thing I would suspect to be faulty. Great repair.
Thanks 👍Not sure if you saw the video of the FLIR thermal camera I looked at. That too turned out to be a similar problem.
Genius level repair 10/10 👏
Thanks 👍🙂
As a former audio engineer the dr71d is a really good piece of kit good fix...
Thanks 👍
Amazing work diagnosing and developing a creative repair! Your patience, skill, and ingenuity is inspiring.
Thank you 👍
IPA on displays like that have destroyed one of my products so I learnt my lesson now.
Yes, I thought I'd see if I could reposition the screen slightly higher if possible, and used the IPA to release the hot glue. Then I re-glued the screen again.
Neat and methodical approach = outstanding result - Thank you. ..
Glad you liked it!
You did fine! Now what? Enjoyed the trip,thanks for your time and many skills.
Thanks 👍
Excellent video to go with my coffee before the end of the world eclipse arrives in 8 hours.
It better not trigger the end of the world, i have an amazon order arriving tomorrow! (My first mini oscilloscope)
Great work, slick trick. I used to use a can of air (upside down) to freeze/shock is07816 smart cards for free satellite tv.
Sorry for the late reply, I hope everything is OK on your side of the world. We are still here... I hope your oscilloscope arrives and wasn't affected too much by all of those stray cosmic rays 😂😂😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixit I'm still here. My family too, we made it another day. I feel bad for all the people that came to my area since it was thick cloud cover. It did become dark as midnight for a few minutes.
Amazon has no excuses unless a portal opened at there warehouse.
@allenrussell6135 😂😂😂👍
Nice find! Great repair. You got this for a steal.
Thanks 👍
Absolutely spot on Mick, I wouldn’t of thought it was a screen issue to be fair. Great fix as always keep em coming 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit 👍
24:30 Wonder if the display (SMMC 12864-MI) was available?
Nice.
Always loved the Tascam gear.
Especially the old multi-track cassette studios.
You're my hero.
Aww thanks 👍😊
Amazing fix with that Freeze spray! Really enjoying your streams and fascinating stuff
Thanks Jonny 👍🙂
Nice work, Mick. It's a good thing when you can find those odd displays for sale online from far away for short money. The original one was probably manufactured in some foreign country.
Cheers mate 👍
The company selling them is American but you are probable right and they just buy them in.Made in China so definitely made out there
Amazing work around with fitting and wiring the different display.
Thanks 👍🙂
Thanks for all the great content!!!
My pleasure!
Unbelievable as usual. Thanks for your videos. ❤❤❤
Glad you like them!
2 screws were for holding on the original display maybe??
Love your work - keep them coming 😊🎉
Thanks 👍yes that's correct, someone else said the same 🙂
The two leftover screws are from the old display board.
Yes 😂😂😂👍
That's what I was thinking before I read your comment.
That was a lot of fun watching! Thank you. Only thing is that I now *have* to buy a can of freezer spray which I will probably never use 🤭
Thanks 👍😂😂😂😂
Awesome little gadget right there. Sounds really good too.
Thanks 👍🙂
Great video and a nice bit of kit....I think LOL !......cheers.
Cheers Andymouse 🙂👍
Hello Mick from Australia again 🙃
What did that man again ah bloody marvellous!
Thanks 🙂👍
Great fix 💯
Thanks 👍
Hi Mick, astounding repair as usual! And you know what they say, it’s not a proper repair unless you have a couple screws left over ;)
😂😂Thanks 👍
Very good and innovative repair. 👍👍
43:24
Did you travel through time to today to show us your success?
2001 --> 💨Woooow 😳😳😳
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks 👍Yes time travel! I'm good friends with Doc Emmet Brown 😂😂😂👍, and I do use FLUX and have a few Capacitors 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I thought you were Dr, Who!!!!
Excellent job
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video, I have not got a clue what you are doing but it was a great watch, keep up the content, looking forward to seeing more. I recognise the accent, Im from the northeast as well.
Thanks 👍 Yes used to be South Shields originally, but over in Cumbria now.
Nice fix!! Any fix that works is a good fix, even if it requires adaptation or modification.
Thanks 👍🙂
Well done, a relatively expensive device back from the dead. Very lucky with the freezer spray. Didn't get the bit re the backlight (switching positive instead of negative) but reasoning would have probably just added to my delirium.
Thanks Ralph 👍The backlight was controlled by the negative on the original display, and the positive on the new display. So on the new display I had to wire the positive always on, and cut the negative a track and re-wire it so it could be controlled 🙂
Yeah - great work. Not a huge fan of Tascam - had one and ended up getting rid of it in favour of a Sound Devices MixPre 6. It was the precursor - DR-70D 4 track recorder. The DR701D is 6 channels (but only 3 XLRs) timecode IO (the BNC socket on the side) and better pre-amps which is a big upgrade for production but the ergonomics on the Sound Devices and the pre-amps are just much better for production.
Thanks 👍
Another masterclass.
Thanks 👍🙂
Sounds great.
Yes 😂👍
This was like going to a magic show. I need to step up my learning.
Thanks 👍🙂
Another good job, even though I don't have a clue what that box was 😂😂
Thanks, it's a 6 track digital sound recorder (Think BBC sound guy with a big fluffy microphone plugged into a box recording sound) it's that type of thing.
Great fix , you might find good use for that in your videos , I would have no idea how to patch that thru into anything ..... Take Care Mon Ami ...
Thanks Cajun👍
Great job as always, Mick. Have you ever not managed to fix an item? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Brian 👍Yes, there's about 3 videos on here where I couldn't repair the item. First was the hot and cold Dyson fan that was totally fried, but I did a follow up as someone sent me a donor board which was not as faulty! Then there was a Milwaukee circular saw, pretty much same thing happened and I did a follow up video, then there was the Cricut machine which was just too badly corroded and had also been de-activated by the manufacturer. Oh, and the Game gear where the screen had failed after I fixed the board but I did another video on replacing the screen with a modern conversion 🙂
@@BuyitFixit You can pretty much turn your hand to anything then. Thanks for coming back to me.
Cor was just thinking of me reporter mum who with a camera and sound rig would have a pair of "mules" which for sounds would have been a chap carrying on a shoulder strap a Uher or Marantz sound deck and they were not lightweight but best in the business for sound reproduction, the other mule would be doing the same but with the camera's external modules poor things loaded down both and today you can buy audio video small boxes that outstrip the old machines ten to a mile lol
😂Yes, this thing is pretty small, lightweight, and decent quality too!
Looks like this goes for anywhere from $100 to $400. I've never seen a device like Q2 before. Just a couple of resistors added to the package, it looks like.
---
Tascam wouldn't sell you the display? This was quite a project!
Yes 😂😂👍I've seen quite a few prices on these, around £200-£500 in the UK. I never enquired if Tascam would supply a display, but I would imagine it would be the full display board, and probably a lot more than £8 shipped which is what the one I used cost me.
You were really screwing around in the end but still a good fix there m8 😃
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Hi Mick, again an outstanding job you have done , always super nice watching your videos mate , greetings from the Netherlands
Thanks 👍
Pardon me, but for a while, I thought you were dismantling a giant octopus there. This is quite a compact design and well build too. Thank God you had a video to help you put it together. Did you find where those last two screws went?? Great job mate.👍👍
Thanks 👍yes they were the two that wouldn't fit back in the display! I totally forgot about that and someone else pointed it out 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit 👌👌
Looks like a well made piece of kit. Good to see, unfortunately TEAC quality has been sliding in recent years, I used to swear by their stereo gear but recent stuff I'd more swear at...
😂😂😂I remember TEAC used to make Hi-Fi separates back in the day, not seen much of their stuff lately.
What other uses do you have for the freeze spray? Another really interesting video.
Thanks 👍it sometimes shows faults with capacitors or other components too. I used to use it way back when repairing CRT TVs when they did odd things after they had warmed up 🙂
Quick tip for anyone who is working on boards like this where there is a danger of shorting stuff out.
Cut out some pieces of card roughly the size of the back of each board and tape them to the back of the pcb so if things fall over there is far less chance of shorting out something critical and letting the magic smoke out. For boards with high voltages (CRTs, camera flashes, valves etc), use plastic sheet instead of cardboard to lower the risk of high voltage tracking. Don't just go with.. "It will be fine, what could possibly go wrong?", listen to someone who has blown up enough stuff to know what he is talking about.
Good advice 👍I've used bits of card previously on other things. Not really done much with CRT's lately, but someone recently sent me a large studio photography flash to have a look at.
*Thanks again.* lol Saw pile of screws wondering, How you keep screws straight?
No matter level of fixing items, the Screws dilemma survives. So, If not marked on parts, what ingenious ways to help brain cell recall which screw goes where, besides returning to hole, filming, or Labeling groups?
You didn't end up with Extra screws ... 24:22 old display \ 33:38 "secured" with *Glue, the new Screw.* i think
Thanks 👍usually if I'm working on something the same day I can usually keep track in my head or sometimes I'll group then in small collections in order of removal. Yes the two screws were indeed from the display 👍
Who needs a Schematic when you have X-Ray vision.
😂😂😂😂👍
Nothing wrong with hot melt. I had a DIY CNC machine held together with the stuff, never ran it under load but it got me through the testing stage.
Nice 👍I built a CNC too a good few years back. I think I put a short video up of it at the time.
Ha I thought that was 80's HiFi style big in the picture then I see it's a little diddy thing. Those huge handles made it look heavy.
Yes 😂😂😂👍
I can't imagine how heavy this thing is to actually attach to a DSLR like it's meant to be. Holy cow.
It's fairly light, but I think it's more to be used on a tripod for video.
Given the manufacturer published the schematics and service manual, maybe they would have sold you a screen?
Still much more enjoyable to watch you hack something up, though...
Thanks 👍Yes they would probably have sold a board with the screen on, but probably a lot more than the £8 delivered screen I used 🙂
Interested to know how much the replacement display cost - of course you had confirmed the original was faulty but always interested to see how much outlay on parts might be c.f. the original "faulty" item.
The replacement display was around £6 delivered.
Hello, one thought. You actually never showed us if you tried to reflow connections from 28:01. Maybe it was cold joint? It surely was responding to temperature change. Just an idea for next time.
31:07 - I dont see what you see or how you split boards, but one paper or just a normal plastic bag would be much safer isolator between boards I believe :D especially when moving
Thanks for the tips👍. It wouldn't have been a cold or dry joint as the data was getting to the display when I tested it with the scope. You can also see the joints on the board just before I removed the faulty LCD panel 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Im refering to the moment 23:45. You touched with oscilloscope from under, possibly touching solder blob from side. Cold joint is in the middle, middle is where is no connection.
1. If you touched from this upper side you might find trace without signal.
2. Even if you touched all traces with signal from upper side, it doesnt mean its connected well on end under this black glue.
Contraction because of freezer spray, makes glass push down toward pcb, then metal contact fulfill its purpose to connect.
Solution maybe was, that from this side, 23:45, to heat with soldering iron, trace by trace and let it cooldown. Not from under, under would reflow only under part of contact. If you didnt throw away small LCD, I would suggest to try to reflow it.
I do see what you mean at 23:45 and that pin does look like it's not quite connected on the top of the PCB. The pin goes to the one of the capacitors used to generate one of the internal voltages (which were present when I tested with the scope). If you look at 23:48 you can see the pin is soldered correctly on the bottom, and the trace it goes to goes to capacitor C488 marked on the back of the board. I've had a similar failure on the FLIR thermal camera I repaired, which also displayed a blank white screen.
Did you notice a oin that looked like it wasn't soldered completely?
Just as you was describing about taking the old screen out and putting flux on, it was the 2nd to last pin on the right. Have a look. Possibly not the cause of the fault but??
Yes, there was also a pin in the middle of the display too, but they were all soldered correctly on the back of the PCB. It was 100% the display that was at fault, I had a very similar problem with the FLIR camera I repaired. Have a look at that one if you get the chance. FLIR were most unhelpful!
@BuyitFixit I'll watch all your videos, eventually, great content. Thank you for all your time in them. Could you maybe sometimes tell us all how long it can take to repair some of the items? IE- 1 hour to find a fault, 30 mins to repair! 3 days to buy in the part!. Things like that. If possible. Not important I know. Great videos again thank you.
Now that you have completed the repair, do you think that you could have just created a new converter cable, to make the connections, and just left off the old board (as the converter?) Meaning, take the connector off of the old display and use it to run the wires to the new display?
It would need to be a bit more than just a cable. There's a couple of transistors to control the backlight, and also a few diodes going to the data lines (see the schematic of the display board I pulled up) 🙂
30:58 haha
After a day or more, will have to work from scratch😂
😂😂
The 2 remaining screws are the ones from the display.
Yes someone else mentioned the same 🙂👍I totally forgot about that 😂😂
May have already been mentioned but could the two screws left over been used to hold the original screen in place ?
Yes, totally correct. Someone else mentioned it too. I had been wondering as it's a bit of a bug bear of mine when I've got screws left over 😂😂😂😂👍
@00:12 _"What it is, is a linear PCM, or post code modulation, sound recorder"_
*pulse code modulation
😂😂😂 auto generated subtitles.
I use a can of air upside down. Works a treat. I think you could have just sold it as is with a container of liquid nitrogen as an accessory........
😂😂😂The upside down can of air is what it actually was. I've got freezer spray too though but couldn't find it at the time 🙂
Would it be better to use a FPC breakout board with a bare COG module, or maybe just replace the whole controller board with a new one that can talk over SPI/I2C
I'd go with the latter, as it allows to change the display type(I generally prefer OLED for these small screen use cases)
I used one of those small blue OLED's on my internet connected Geiger counter I built a few years back. Some of the pixels aren't as bright now and it has a type of "screen burn" which I guess are the OLEDs burning out over time.
@@BuyitFixit That's definitely the most worrying characteristic of OLED screens. However, the recorder seems to have a backlight feature, which should extend the screen life somemore.
On the other hand, I realized that the use case for this particular recorder(DSLR companion recording) might need the screen to still display while the backlight is off, so OLED might not be applicable.
Lol. The magic electronic fixit spray.. just give any broken electronic component a quick spray and voila it works again..
Yes 😂😂😂👍
I think the two screws were from the top of the battery compartment?
They were from the display, I forgot that I couldn't put them back in due to the board thickness 🙂
"I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things"
Well, I would think that it would take an expert to find the fault and fix it. 😁👍
😂😂😂Thanks 👍I'm just a normal guy who likes p*ssing about with electronics and the like. I ended up fixing an electronic scissor lift for someone earlier today, and a vintage toy pinball game (I volunteer at our local repair cafe) which was on today.
@@BuyitFixit In my world, you are an expert. 😁
I have learned a great deal from all your videos, I will give my Metabo radio another try.
It works fine, it just can't play from power tool battery.
The screws left over from the display maybe
Yes they are 😂👍
I have a nvida graphics card that has stopped working would you like to have a look at it for me 😊 please
You can drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com
You didn't screw the display in
Ah yes that would be the two extra screws. They wouldn't reach because of the extra PCB.
Audio on the channel is about to get a whole lot more sophisticated 😂
😂😂It's hard enough editing especially with sometimes having to use up to 5 cameras. (Thermal, microscope, oscilloscope, overhead, and sometimes another camera if I have to do something outside such as testing or in the workshop), so having to sync audio etc (although I do have to do that with the microscope camera as it doesn't record audio).
@@BuyitFixit I’m sure many underestimate the time you spend editing because the end result is so seamless (almost appearing like a one take). Appreciate the content you put out, I always seem to learn something new!
Thanks, yes editing does take a fair amount of time. I can't remember which video it was, but it was almost a full day of / diagnosing / repair / recording and about two days of editing. I'm currently editing the next video while I type this. 👍
@@BuyitFixit There may still be ways of improving your audio without unduly making it harder on yourself. If you have a microphone input available on the camera, you could connect a small mixer with phantom power to make use of any XLR condenser microphone you could think of. (I bought a used Mackie 402 VLZ4 pre-pandemic that has been serving me well. Warning: some budget models will only provide 15 V or so for phantom power, not the full 48 V.) Maybe eBay will turn up a good fixer-upper large-diaphragm condenser? Mic tech has some special areas like gigaohm input biasing on "real" condensers but the circuitry is hardly rocket science by your standards.
Should the used market fail you, there's some really decent LDCs you can buy for not much money. Thomann's t.bone SC400 is splendid with high output and low noise but may be a bit too much on the bottom end for your voice, it's not super brilliant up top and may apprecite a bit of EQ. (Also, the shockmount needs some ingenuity before it starts doing its job properly, it's way too stiff as it ships.) The Marantz Pro MPM1000 is also decent if noticeably lower in output and with less proximity effect (both expected from a smaller electret capsule, and considering that its noise level remains very decent). What you may actually want may be an overhead pencil condenser, though smaller diaphragm size means that noise is much more of an issue. The t.bone SC140s are good for the price IMHO but little better than a noisy old LDC from the 2000s (Samson CL8 in this case) in the noise department. The truly good level doesn't really start until you get to something like a RODE NT5 or Line Audio CM4 at 3 times the price or more.
If you have a stereo mic input available and your editing software can do things like inverting phase on one track and adding it to another, here's a balanced input on the cheap. Add an inexpensive phantom power adapter to it and you don't even need a mixer. (Note that workmanship on these can be shoddy and inspection may not hurt. Again, it's not high-tech. On a side note, I would not rely on adequate protection and advise against hot-plugging mics while phantom power is on.) Input noise is not likely to be any worse than the Steinberg UR12 audio interface I reverse-engineered the other day, that's got the better part of 3 µV (outside of the range that Julian Krause shows in his EIN measurement graphs...). They basically put in some extra series resistors in the input to form a fixed 6 dB attenuator and ruined noise performance in the process.
Just don't buy the cheapest microphone arm you can get, those predictably tend to fail in the same spot sooner or later. In the XLR cable department, you could easily buy some decent mic cable stock and Neutrik connectors and solder some up.
I am particularly keen on TASCAM products. I am using a US-144 MkII audio interface for my PC at the moment, I used a TASCAM home DAT deck back when I traded Grateful Dead shows and I never had a problem with either. I like the looks of this thing.
Yes, looks a nice bit of kit and seems to be well made 👍
And it sounds better than your current mic…😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
1.5 mins in and I reckon it's a Zebre strip on the screen.
Close, but no cigar 😉👍
you sound local mate.. where you from?
South Shields originally, then Durham, now over in Cumbria.
@@BuyitFixit am born n bread in sunderland mate ..i came across your channel as i need a lcd screen replacing on my car alarm remote..is that a service you can offer?
Other half - What on earth has the postie brought this time? Yourself - I've no idea, but I'm going to fix it anyway.
😂😂😂😂😂pmsl 👍
Could someone be kind enough to explain like I'm five: what is this device and what does it do? "Linear PCM Recorder" might as well be in Polish.
Digital 6 track sound recorder
LPCM - Linear Pulse Code Modulation, a digital audio format that records pure sound without compressing the source sound.
@@BuyitFixitThank you!
Never use IPA on screens.
I was using it to release the glue as I thought I could get the display a little bit higher, but I guess some ran down onto the screen.
micro usb absolutely sucks, its all i can say
Yes, I'm not a fan of them either.
Nice one, fun it’s teac branded on the inside
Thanks 👍Yes I never notice that until someone else mentioned.
I'm surprised to see you're not on Odysee yet. EEVBlog is, as are many other electronics channels.
I did have a quick look but even EEVblog doesn't seem to have many views over on Odysee.