Find a bad LED in Christmas light string
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 лис 2017
- Figuring out that part of your string of LED lights doesn't work is no fun. Figuring that out after you've hung them on the roof is even less fun. Test your lights out before risking life and limb to be the brightest house on the block, and if you happen to have a dead section in your string of LED lights, use this method to find the faulty LED.
Happy decorating!!!
🔗 Get a voltmeter here: amzn.to/2A86U00
➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖
If this helped you out and you'd like to show your appreciation, donations are accepted :
💲 www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_... - Навчання та стиль
Love this - everything else I looked at required that I buy a more expensive item to fix the leds. This was so much easier!
Kudos, Dustin. It all seems obvious once I see it done. Much appreciated!
Great tip! Using your guide I was able to fix my string in less than five minutes! 🙂
Thank you! Exactly what I needed. Your display showing half the lights off was my exact problem!
Super simple and thorough explanation. I can fix my friends prop from memory. Good job and than you very much.
Helpful and informative. Now I have the motivation to work on my broken sets. THANKS!
Thanks for the info. I didn't know you could find a bad led by checking only the socket. This video will save me lots of time.
Great advice to use the volt meter and explain how to do it. I had the misfortune of 2 bulbs with poor connections and it was impossible to solve the problem until I used the volt meter. Many thanks!
Great video. Not only saved my light strings but also $25 for that Light keeper tool. I have a few free multimeters from HF so this worked out great.
Very good. I am on my way to test some LED lights now that you have armed me well for the task. Thanx. MERRY CHRISTMAS
This is the better tutorial for led lights. Others did not tell me the way the voltage went through. Good deal man. Now we need a video on icicle lights.
I would imagine that icicle lights are wired similarly where each hanging strand is wired in series. There may be multiple hanging strands per group of lights. Unfortunately I don't have any icicle lights to test.
I bought a set of LED icicle lights on clearance just to test out. The set I bought operates in the same way that the regular string of lights does. There are groups of lights that are wired in series. My set had two groups of 35 lights and each group of lights also had a resistor in line to limit the current passing through the group of LEDs. The resistor on mine measures 1500 ohms. Finding a fault in the icicle lights may be a bit more tedious than a regular strand because you’ll have to pay attention to how the wires run. Imagine starting at the plug, the path goes to the base of the first icicle, then down the icicle and back up to the base, then continues to the next icicle base, then down and up, and so on. If there is an LED that is half way down one icicle, you’ll have to determine if it’s on the wire that is going down, or the wire that is going up. Of course you can just test the other side of the icicle to be sure.
Thank you SO much for making a video that was both easy to understand and simple to duplicate the test!
Chris Sturm thanks for watching.
Thank you! Way faster and easier than doing one bulb at a time!
Great job with the step by step!
actual successful application of a divide and conquer algorithm. somebody get this man an honorary CS degree (if he doesn’t already have one) for the greatest DIY UA-cam video of all time
Ha. Thanks. I’m a developer by day.
Of all the videos to help fix my expensive LEDs yours was the very best. Thank you
Ligibre Gutimen thank you.
I already had a volt meter, and your video helped me find the bulb with the loose lead wires. They still blink off because it's a bad design, but I know which bulb it is and it doesn't blink off unless there's a lot of wind. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
No problem. Thanks for watching.
Best simple tutorial to find and fix LED Christmas lights with just a multimeter.
Very good explanation- I was able to use this info to solve my problem with a yard reindeer that had multiple strings of LED lights. Awesome Iron Giant T shirt. Thanks
Glad I could help get your lights fixed. We love Iron Giant in our house. Thanks for watching.
This was awesome and worked like a charm!
Thanks for the video. Helped a ton!
Thank you! I will be sharing.
Thanks, got my set working!
Very well done, man. Now I know how to fix my lights.
Thanks for watching. Hope your lights are shining bright. :)
Excellent & informative presentation!
You are THE MAN!! Saved me a few bucks and a lot more frustration. I put my trusty Radio Shack (RIP) multimeter to work once again. THANX !
Ed x glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Hey Dustin, I had a slightly different issue with my set of LED lights. Plugged them in this year, they lit up but they were no where near as bright as they should have been. I decided to give your voltage drop testing technique a whirl and it worked. Was getting maybe 30v AC from the end almost all the way to the beginning of the string. Then bang, 120v on one back to 30v on the next bulb. Swapped out the one in between with a replacement and the string lit up like last year! Guess that diode half fried and was acting like a big resistor. Anyway thanks again.
Peter Frangos glad you found the issue. Thanks for sharing.
Great tip.
I had SEVEN dead bulbs, it would have been impossible to save the strand. The multimeter worked, however, and I saved myself 5 bucks xD
Cool... sounds like you have lots of knowledge in is field. Subed!
Great trouble shooting tips. I was able to locate the bulb that was causing half my light strand not to work while the strand was still on the tree. Measuring voltage in various sockets to find the bad bulb worked well for me. Thanks for the help.
Great!! Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for watching.
Brilliant! Saved me loads of time in looking for a faulty light. Although I actually had to measure DC voltage, not AC. I assume this is because of the three wires and fuses system that Noma use in their light strings.
I had to use DC voltage as well for the strings I just tested. Worked like a charm to find the bad bulb(s).
Great helpful video. Thanks
THANK YOU - I have one string with the middle out, and another string with the middle the string "blinking" off for about 10-15 seconds and then back on. Driving me nuts ! I'm off to get a volt meter. THANKS AGAIN !
Well, unfortunately this did not work for me. Multimeter never read zero (reading 4.5 - 6.2) depending on the socket. Must be something else wrong with my string. I will try the bulb by bulb method on some rainy day to see if that works.
Great tip.well done sir.
Very useful, thank you!
Great job plainly explaining this !!!!
Thanks for watching.
Great information
Best explanation I've seen
Awesome vid! Thanks
great vid best ive seen yet for simple diagnosis
robbie roche thank you.
Thank you!
this method worked - thanks!!
... always wanted to know how to do this; although many strings of lights are wired in parallel
Amazing! Thanks
You da man! Thanks for the tip!
Excellent video. You simplified the process and made it understandable. LEDs can be tricky but you removed them from the equation. Good job.
Thanks helped me a lot
Thanks dude!
Thanks i knew how to use the ohmmeter setting to find problems with incandescents This sure beats pulling each bulb to check
Thank you!!!
Great video, one question though what if there is a loose wire instead of a burnt bulb is it the same process?
Thanks helped me out
Saved the day, Thanks!!!!!
No problem. Thanks for watching.
yeah. you squashed that one .. I like the way you explained it.. common sense method.. that doesn't happen much on u tube. thank you.
Some say that common sense isn't so common. LOL. Thanks for watching.
Thank you. I have a string of 200, but the last 50 quit.
I was hoping I didn't have to replace them one at a time to find the bad one, especially if there is more than one bad one involved.
I got my multimeter from Harbor Freight a few months ago for free with a coupon. All I had to do was buy something so I got a $2.99 speed square that I needed for a project.
Very good point about the possibility of more than one LED being faulty. It'd be impossible to diagnose by just swapping a spare in each socket. I've got a Harbor Freight meter that I got for free too. I bought a multi-pack of alligator clips from HF and replaced the standard probe with alligator clips on the HF meter. It makes testing some things way easier when you can just clip the lead onto the connector or wire.
Reuben Hubert47
Great video. I learned something AND fixed my string lights. Two bulbs were faulty. Why are 2 of the bases of the bulbs wider than the rest? One wide one doesn't light up but still carries the current. Thank you!
The first and last base in the section has double wires into/out of the base. It’s just to maintain the series within a parallel circuit wiring.
I like this one
Dude you saved me a S**t ton of time . . . THANK YOU!!!
Ha. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
It seems like it would be easier to just use your handy little copper wire by-pass gadget to test half way/half way etc. instead of the volt meter? Thanks for the good information.
Great Video Nick.Using a voltmeter can be time-consuming but the 1/2 method helps save time and effort and the Voltmeter shows positive indication. The Volt-Tic and similar Voltage Sensing devices ( So bloody many of these Device-Hustling Types On You-Tube ) are nearly useless as they are very sensitive PLUS there's a live 3rd wire in most strings feeding the connecting strings. In case I missed it, folks have to be aware if Replacing the LED filament itself THAT this is a DIODE which passes current ONE Way. If you install your diode the wrong way ( Easily Done ) it Won't Work😁 On Another Note: Whereabouts can someone get suitable replacement LEDs .The Kit Replacements on I've seen on Amazon ETC. are not suitable🤔 Also , Rust Corroded LED Leads will probably break off. Vinegar on a Q-Tip will clean corrosion in the Lamp sockets themselves ( Turn OFF the power FIRST ) Then , after replacing corroded filaments, cleaning the sockets then installing new LED filaments , verify your lights are working again. Finally, with a Q-Tip, Apply a glob of Vaseline to the inside of the socket and the end of the LED Bulb/Filament. Vaseline is NON-Conductive and if your sockets and LED Filaments are clean and shiny, you'll have good , stress-free service from your lights. Messy , but if you live in a coastal OR Rainy/Snowy area, it will save you yearly grief😁😁
Thanks. My led sockets only allow the “bulb” to be inserted one direction shown in my recent video ua-cam.com/video/nUAcFFuuFnU/v-deo.html I guess if you’re using replacements that don’t have the base pre-installed, then yes, you need to verify that it’s the correct orientation. Good tip on the Vaseline, although that would be very time consuming.
Thanks so much this is the ONLY video I have found that does NOT say go buy our blah blah product, GREAT INFO thanks again!
LOL. I'll try to sell you something if you want me to. Thanks for watching.
Any recommendations on how to shorten LED GE icicle lights to make custom fit?
Jim Nuna I think the only way to do it would be to add a resistor equivalent to the number of LEDs that are removed from the circuit, but that’s just what I’d try first. It may not be the correct way to do it. Someone else commented about a plastic housing on some GE LED’s, maybe it already contains a resistor? I’m not sure.
Shorting the socket or putting in a good bulb will still not light the string if there is more than one bad bulb. You have to replace the bulb that is dead and if the string does not light up restart the binary search in the remainder of the string.
I just found 3 bad bulbs in a string of 50, in each of them the lead had broken off right where it enters the LED proper.
A voltage measurement near the middle of the string (with broken connections in both directions) yielded random voltage readings on both socket leads regardless of the plug orientation.
Good point. I’ve fixed a handful of strings over the past couple years, but have gotten lucky and only encountered one bad LED each time, but multiple defects is a definite possibility.
Sucks that you had three defective. I think my sets only came with two spares each.
You are a man of God... thank you!
Alex Seegrist glad I could help. Thanks for watching
Could it be that one needs a True RMS AC voltmeter to do this? After getting strange and inconclusive readings with my Ideal VOM clampmeter (not True RMS), I was able to easily identify the bad bulb (location of 0 volt condition) with my Fluke True RMS VOM clampmeter. In any case, thank you for the tip!
He's testing voltage; were you testing amps with your clamp meter - could that be the difference?
Great video. I was 3 for 3 at fixing the strings that have removable bulbs. I still have two strings that don't accept replacement bulbs. Any suggestions?
Jamie Forrester are the LEDs molded into place? If the LEDs are not removable, the only thing I can think would be to pierce the insulation to test for voltage on either side of a LED. I personally don’t like to provide any extra entry points for moisture to get around the wire, but a straight pin like from a sewing kit would probably leave the smallest puncture. Use the same technique to identify the bad LED, testing for voltage on both sides of the LED. Remember you’re dealing with potentially 120 VAC, so don’t touch that pin once it’s pierced the insulation. Once the bad LED is identified, you could probably get by with just cutting that one LED out, and soldering/heat shrinking a small wire splice in its place, unless you can find a suitable LED to take its place. Eliminating one LED will push a little more current through the remaining LEDs which could shorten their life, but they’re basically trash right now anyway. You could also solder in a ~270 ohm resistor in place of that bad LED to limit the current a tad. Let me know what you figure out with them. Better yet, make a video and show your process if you get them fixed. Others may encounter the same issue.
Sweet, wasn't looking forward to pulling 100 bulbs. thanks.
No problem. I hope you find the issue quickly. Thanks for watching.
Jamie Oliver's daulph
Best video on how to fix the LED strings. Meter it the best tool to fix LED lights. That LED Keeper tool pierces the crap out of your LED strings insulation. A) That is dangerous for outdoor use. B) Your GFCI will start tripping constantly and C) Water will work its way into the wiring and no amount of bulb changing will fix a string of lights that has water in the wires insulation that totally corroded all the way through the conductors.
Just a question..can you put a incandescent blinker on leds like that??
Not sure. I don’t think it’d hurt anything to try, but I’m not sure how it’d behave. I know on motorcycles, replacing the turn signals with LEDs, they flash a lot faster than normal because the flasher unit is designed for the resistance of the normal bulbs. You may have a similar effect with the Christmas lights.
Thank you sir! Helped alot! However I still get an unlit half string even though the voltage were detected all the way through 😭😭😭
🤔 not sure what can be done about that. How many LEDs are in the unlit section?
love the Iron Giant shirt
Thanks
My GE LED 100 light strand has three segments with these plastic cylindrical junctions in between. Does anybody know what those are? On my lights the first segment is working but the second and third are not. I tried this method but it doesn't seem to work.
Austin Larson sorry I can’t be more help. I don’t have any experience with the GE lights.
GREATE!!!
What if your very next bulb doesn't have anything on either side? But you can get 120 out of the end plug. All bulbs past the first dead one have no voltage.
Very next bulb from what? The bad LED? The circuit has to have continuity through all the LEDs in the section. If one LED is bad, the continuity is broken. You still get 120V out of the end plug because of the third traveler wire.
Very helpful. One question though. Is running these lights with the broken section harmful to the working LEDs?
No, since the LEDs of each section are wired in series, and the sections are wired in parallel with each other, each section can run independently of each other.
good
Some of my LEDs were out and I jumpered each one of them individually across my headlamp battery bank of 3 AAAs or 4.5 volt total and kept trying to blink them from very dim and they jump started and pretty soon they each came on to full brightness and now they work back in the original string so what's up with that?
Hmm. Strange. Not sure.
@@DustinRogersinMO, Oh, it looks like those same led bulbs just went back to blinking out again, sorry to bother.
Hallelujah!
One word of advice, do NOT buy your LED Christmas lights at Walmart!! Big waste of money and CHEAPLY MADE! Every strand I have bought from Walmart has problems a week or 2 after I bought them. When it rains, water gets in where the bulb wires are, and they break off SO EASILY!! I throw on a 300k plus strand light show and it's only the LED that break so easily. From how pretty they look, they can be a real nuisance, as you can't shock them with the LightKeeper Pro like you can with mini lights. That simply shorts out the bulbs and burns them out. Buy your LED lights from Costco, target, big lots, or online from amazon or something like that
Drewbie1997 good feedback. I bought mine from Ace Hardware.
That's definitely better than walmart
I could not agree more I put up 30,000+ lights, about 10,000 are from Walmart and I'm working on them all the time.
@@christmasman977see i mean i have had some luck with LED lights from walmart. the trick is to get them from the back of the shelf and try your luck. you will have a greater chance of getting non defective strands. but even so, everything at walmart is mass produced and made cheaply, as the prices can tell. sometimes it's worth spending the extra buck or 2 and having something last for years on end instead of paying for something and have it last no more than a year or 2
If you want quality lights, forget all the retail stores. Go to www.holiday-light-express.com - the lights they sell there are commercial grade, much brighter, rectified (no flicker) and extremely durable. Yes they cost a bit more, and yes, they last a LOT longer.
You can also get LED screw-in replacements for your old fashioned lights with the big bulbs there.
Can you show me that how it's work called led string light
Rajakamalini Kanagasingam I’m not sure what you are asking
When I took the lights off my fence I found out why the last 50 lights weren't working.
Some jackass cut the last light off the string and cut the wire in another place.
I need 220 volt lights so if somebody cuts them they will get immediate punishment.
Yeah, that last light is important. I just put out a video a week or so ago on how to shorten LED lights. You need that last light for it to work.
Not a jackass....a squirrel
@@Iamkayaky There were several juvenile delinquent jackasses in the area. They vandalized things in the neighborhood for “fun.”
They were caught trying to steal tools from my house but were let go because some time in the past my stepson invited them over.
Because they were allowed over once they were let go by the police even after being caught red handed with the tools they took when nobody was home.
Please excuse me if these two points are not covered, I have run into:
1) No one seems to talk about the resistor(s) (there may be one or two). They are needed to limit current.
2) All leds must be in the same direction (polarity). However the first or last led in a string needs to be backwards in the bulb holder (the tab side of the socket is usually the positive/long lead of bulb) so the end bulbs if each string end up going opposite directions on the wire between bulbs.
I believe I have this right.
P.S.; To further complicate things I have found some sockets installed backwards compared to the others.
Good points.
Regarding #1 - The strings that I have do not have any resistors. They were made so that the current is limited due to the number of LEDs wired in series. I put out a new video this year showing how i shortened some LED strings by replacing the LEDs that I removed with an appropriate sized resistor.
Re #2 - on most strings that I’ve seen, the first and last socket are different because they have three wires instead of 2. This is so that the section of LEDs can be wired in parallel with the other sections in the string.
@@DustinRogersinMO correct, however the tab on the bulb holder is on the wire from bulb to bulb (single wire). So the first and last sockets on each section face each other.
Also, please include link to video referenced above.
Have a great day, Bruce
@@919Drones ua-cam.com/video/0IyPSczC5bQ/v-deo.html
Hey Dustin, appreciate the quick response. Have more to ask. Can we talk in the phone?
Hey Dustin, I looking to get quick answers. Also give you some unique rarely maybe never brought points.
Some of my LED Christmas lights has built-in resistors actually on the LED bulb any clue where to find these I've searched everywhere
Christmas Man so the resistor is built into the bulb? Can you remove the resistor and measure its resistance or are they molded together and inseparable?
@@DustinRogersinMO it is actually molded to the lead that runs down from the light bulb they are inseparable all of the light bulbs in the strand or not like that there's only 1 bulb that is that way per strand I have about five strands of lights that's that way all of my others have the typical resistors in their own little spaces right after these little bulbs is where I lose my 110 voltage I have looked everywhere for these bulbs because three sets out of the five loses their voltage right after those bulbs really hate to trash them just because of that
Is doing this same method with the multimeter set to continuity bad/dangerous? I did basically the same thing as you showed but then realized if I had it set on continuity instead, the lights would light up if they were good, and the multimeter would beep obviously. Seemed easier/fun but I haven’t seen anyone do it that way
So you were checking continuity with the christmas lights plugged in to power and doing the same test I did except with your meter set to continuity mode? Or were you checking continuity with the christmas lights unplugged?
I ask because the continuity mode on your meter works the same as checking ohms/resistance. The internal battery in the meter provides some current and it measures the voltage output through the other lead and calculates the resistance (Ohms law). Any resistance/continuity checks should be done on wires that are not powered otherwise it could damage your meter.
@@DustinRogersinMO Plugged in. Let’s see if I can explain myself lol. You know how often christmas light plugs have the male side that goes into the wall, and a female side on the back of the same plug? With the lights plugged into the wall, I stuck the multimeter black tip into the female hole of the plug. (I realize this is different than your video, you put the multimeter tip in the tail end plug of the string of lights, and I put mine in the starting side, the wall plug side). So even though zero of my lights were working on the entire string, I could pick a light around the middle, take out the led, stick the red multimeter tip in, and if all the bulbs up to that point were good, the circuit would close and the bulbs only up to that point would all light up and the meter would beep. Take the red tip out again, and the bulbs turn off again. If I picked another point and all the bulbs up to that point weren’t good, nothing would turn on and no beep. So then with process of elimination i could figure out where the bad bulb was. But duly noted, It makes sense that that must be bad for the multimeter
@@amaiaamaiaa Ah, I understand. Basically you were using your meter as a big complex jumper wire. Not a recommended method, but if it helped you find the faulty LED, and no one got hurt, then I guess it’s ok. But I would avoid that method in the future.
@@DustinRogersinMO 🤦🏻♀️lol well at least I fixed 2 sets of lights and learned what not to do for the future, haha thanks for your help.
I tried this with 2 separate strings of lights and I couldn’t get the multimeter to indicate anything. I checked the battery in the multimeter and it was fine. I tried checking on both AC and DC settings - still nothing. I know the problem has to be me, not the instruction in the video - I know I’m a novice and maybe this process is beyond my pay grade. I tried for well over an hour to figure out what I was doing wrong but never could get this to work. I guess this is why most people just throw the lights away - too frustrating to figure out the problem.
Do a simple check and put the meter on AC volts and stick the meter leads in the female plug on the very end of the string of lights. Once the lights are plugged in, you should get a ~120V reading. If not, unplug the lights and check the tiny fuse that is in the male plug end of the string. You have to slide a little cover towards the prongs of the plugs. Inside you should find two fuses. Only one is connected. The other is a spare.
If the fuse is good, make sure the outlet you’re plugging into has power. Plug a known working lamp or radio in there or use your meter to test voltage of the outlet.
What happens if the voltage drops by ~50v between 2 lights?
Cosette1211 your light set may be wired differently than mine, but 50v drop seems excessive across two LEDs
Yeah it seems weird. It goes from ~118/120 to ~70-80 then in a couple more bulbs it's down to ~30. In your video it's clear where the one bad bulb is, but I have 3 problem sets of lights. One of them none of the lights turn on, the other two about 1/2 turn on. It seems like I have multiple bad bulbs, not just a single bad bulb...
One of the half lit strings progressively drops from 120 to 70 in the next light socket to about 30, so it seems like bad wiring maybe, but I don't know enough about how electricity works lol.
Cosette1211 are these LED lights? Or incandescent?
@eaglei22 sounds like corrosion on the terminals. Look for signs of corrosion and then the contacts.
What about a tree topper where the LED lights are very dim? Not what was advertised
Not sure what kind of tree topper it is, but I recently had an issue with one of my sets that were very dim. After moving the wires around a bit, they suddenly got brighter. I suspect there was a slightly loose connection somewhere that was causing some excess resistance or something?? I couldn't get it to go dim again, so I wasn't able to pinpoint the actual issue.May try wiggling the wires around and see if the brightness changes.
Nice! Cut my time in half.
My lights are already on my tree, how do i find it among 200 lights & decorations??
I ditched an artificial tree with lights on it for that very reason. Part of a string go out and there was no practical way to check it out.
Or you can take more drastic measures and cut out the bad bulb and re-splice the wires. Haha. I’ve done that many times when I did not have replacement bulbs
Yeah. That’s pretty drastic. I think I would have just marked the socket and picked up some replacement bulbs the next time at the store.
I repaired string quickly using an old analog multimeter.
Good deal. Glad you got them working.
What if you can't take off the tip?
The tip of the LED? Are you having issues with just a specific LED or is the string designed where none of the LEDs will come out?
Some sets are designed with a little lock tab that snaps down to keep the LED in place.
@@DustinRogersinMO its fixed i took out that bulb and rewired it
LED Christmas lights are garbage. I bought GE icicle lights ($30 for an 8 ft strand for my whole house this year and they've been plagued with sections burning out all season. At least with the old school lights half the strand wouldnt burn out and you could see which bulb is bad rather than having to do all of this.
What if all are out???
Sometimes there is a little tiny fuse in the plug. Check to see if that fuse is still good. Otherwise, you'll just need to figure out where you have voltage and where you don't and try to pinpoint where the voltage stops.
Now what if you get voltage on both sides
Both sides of what?
@@DustinRogersinMO of the inside of the bulb housing
@@metal422life do you have just one section that is out? Or is the whole string out? Where is this socket that has power on both sides in relation to the part that isn’t working?
I think there are light sets that are being sold now that have 4 or more wires that deliver power differently than the sets that I have. The goal of the manufacturers is to achieve a string of lights that continues to work even if a single LED stops working. How many wires are used in your set?
@@DustinRogersinMO 3 wires, I got it fixed tho. I was misinterpreting background electricity, had 1 bulb not getting good connection and 1 dead bulb and 2 that worked when I switched what sockets they were in. Thanks again your video did help.
@@metal422life great. Glad you got it working.
What if there is about 4 volts on both terminals
I’ve seen some newer strands that advertise as “never out”, meaning that if one “bulb” goes out, the rest of the string stays on. I haven’t had a chance to investigate how those are wired but I’d think it’d have to be wired in a manner that each socket, or every other socket would be powered individually.
How much voltage do you have on the socket before and after the one you’re getting 4V on?
@@DustinRogersinMO
They all seem to have 4on both. This is on a pre lit Christmas tree
@@dougblack8933 ah. Yeah, those are difficult because you can’t lay them out in a line. Is a big section not lit, or the whole tree?
@@DustinRogersinMO
There are 2 different sections both are 1/2 of the lights between plugs.
@@dougblack8933 unfortunately I don’t have any good tips for finding the culprit on a pre-lit tree. Sorry.
You are explaining a half bridge LED not a full bridge LED lights.
The expensive one is full bridge LED, meaning you won't see flickering & it's brighter.
Wow....how about fixing a net.....hahaha
ntnt196 I’d take a shot at it, but have never used the nets so I have no idea how they are wired.
Very good - would be excellent if it weren't for the awful audio.