Mistakes were made - I almost killed my diesel heater
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2023
- #dieselheater #chinesedieselheater #garageheater #paulethier #howtoinstalladieselheater
2023-5 In this video we try to figure out error code 08 and error code 10 and why our diesel heater stopped working. We also made some improvements to our installation that likely caused the errors.
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There are ways to tune the fuelling from the setup menu. From the factory generic settings they run pretty rich but you can adjust the max and min pulse rates to optimise the burn. I used a £20 carbon monoxide meter and adjusted the C0 down from 150 ppm to 12pm on the high setting. There are videos on you tube, just search “tuning Chinese diesel heater” it’s pretty straightforward. It can be done using the display by gradually reducing the pump pulse frequency until the temperature bar drops one bar and increasing the fuel until the last bar lights up. Worked well for me. Hope that helps 👍
Living at high altitude, the system ran VERY rich right out of the box.
I live high enough that my 5Kw is actually maxed out at 3Kw. imagine dumping 60% more fuel than would burn cleanly, the black smoke and soot buildup. I quickly looked up how to adjust this, the above method is how I did it, it worked beautifully
Fast forward a couple of years, the old one died of a bearing failure after two winters of continuous use, I ordered a new one with a new controller; the new controller did not allow for any setup in this department, it did have a "High Altitude" mode, so I thought I was good.
The first week I had it, I took it to my folks, with the camper it was attached to. they live near 10,000ft (3000m) (Needless to say, it conked out at around midnight in sub 0F weather, throwing the same error code. I spent the rest of the night under an electric blanket, everything in the camper frozen.
Towards the end of the next day, after working on their off grid power and well pump system, I went to work on the heater, same thing after a few minutes of operation, dumping thick black smoke, then white atomized diesel as the flame went out. UA-cam video showed how to change the controller, I figured that the new controller was dumping way too much fuel in regardless of the "high altitude" mode setting. which I did, back to the one on the old unit. I set it up to run extra lean, blew out the piles of soot by blowing hard into the intake, It started up, limping, after an hour or so, I slowly raised the fuel up as it cooked off the soot,
It now runs like new, better than new, considering the controller that it came with is useless
Not true for all these heaters. There are some that have no adjustment available.
Good information. Thanks.
Thanks for showing this , much appreciated.
You’re welcome. Happy you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
Very well done, thanks so much for a great video. Very nice talk through, your a great teacher.
Thank you for the great comment. I happy you enjoyed the video.
Thanks. You likely saved a problem for a lot of people. Appreciated.
Thank you for commenting.
You did a great job Paul... you stuck with it... kept going and got the problem fixed,
Good stuff !
Liked/Subscribed !
Thank you!!!
6:00 The inline fuel filter is installed in the wrong direction and will clog up way faster.
The correct way to get the best out of a filter, is to let the unfiltered fuel come arround the filter element, where there is a lot of surface, and leave filtered through the side that has less surface. Grtz
that way you can also see any trapped bits, the way it's installed you wouldn't know until it's blocked.
@@stollyfiles 100% correct.
Some filters don't allow that. Many have check valves
Nice to know ... Thanks
Yup you need to turn your filter around buddy👍🏻
Great video. Nice for you to share what happened and how you corrected it.
Thank you for kind words and comment.
I have a snowblower that used to act up too. Replaced filter, lines, spark plug, carburetor etc... It was the fucking fuel cap vent. Punched a hole in it with a drill (it's not stored outside) and presto. Runs like a champ.
Nice video... Thank you. 👍👌
Thank you!
Great video
Agree.... I think it was the exhaust. I just purchased one and am waiting for it to arrive. Your videos are a great help! Thanks!
Thanks for commenting. I'm happy you enjoyed the videos. Goodluck with your heater, they really do work pretty well.
I have a new one but the shorter fatter model. Keep getting same codes as you after only having for a few days. It would shut off with 08 code and then would give me a 10. I found the rubber breather in the cap keeping the fuel pump from working properly and removed it like you. Good Job on that one most people don't mention that. Also I mix about 10 to 20 percent of 87 octane gas with my diesel and have great results running @ 150 c on level 3 and 4. You should try a little gas with diesel and run it hotter to keep carbon down. I would like to know your average temps when running. Thanks for posting and this will be helpful for people with similar issues.
Figure out how to go into the settings for the fuel pump and turn down the fuel delivery amount. The pump is set to a higher duty cycle than is needed from the factory and results in what is called wet stacking where the unburned soot in the combustion chamber soaks in unburned fuel (unburned fuel is caused by not enough heat or too much fuel) making it sticky enough for more carbon to layer on over and over. The same thing can happen with diesel engines when they idle and do not maintain operating temperature. Replace the glowplug and clean the burn chamber once a year as preventative maintenance. Fuel filters should have the flow going around the outside of the element and exiting the center.
Thanks for the comment. I will give it a try.
Thanks buddy.
Good stuff man
Thank you!
tnx
I run my heaters during winter and got fuel from pumps, but 1 time the fuel can sat on porch during below zero for a few days and poured into tank and saw white sludge like material on the very bottom of my fuel can I got from pump to heater. Now I use a tank with a felt type filter before I pour the fuel directly from a pump.
Good video, Thanks. FWIW, a couple of points: It could just be the way it looks on the video, or I could just be dead wrong, but it appears that the fuel filter is on backwards; shouldn't the bowl part be connected towards the tank and not the pump? Also, you really might want to have the combustion intake outside too. I have watched a good number of videos over the last year or so and I have seen more than a few where some problem with the heater failed and caused the heater to back feed smoke through that hose. You don't need to get another through the hull fitting for that one though; you can just use a 3 inch piece of 3/4 black pipe and a floor flange, that intake hose will actually thread right onto the black pipe. I painted the floor flange to give it some rust protection and mounted it outside about a foot away from the exhaust. Have a great one.
You are correct the filter is on backwards. There is no arrow and I had a 50/50 shot. It seems to be working ok I flip it around in the spring when I service it again or when it needs repair again. Thanks for commenting.
Merci Paul ,c est la 1 ère chose que je ferai lors de l achat..
The carbon buildup is from unburned fuel, one cause is low burn temperature, the second most likely cause is excess fuel. When a fuel cannot burn completely, soot is a byproduct of the combustion, and it sticks to the coldest parts of the chamber first, and as more is produced by continued incomplete combustion, it will cover more areas.
Thank you for commenting and sharing your knowledge.
My new looks just like this one when it clogs.. It clogs in less than a tank. My old one sits right beside and runs good. Same setup. Short exhaust. After the second cleanout I ran the pump to a slower speed, but that cuts my fan speed down too and it still clogged. Just took a little longer. I am wondering if my pump output is too much, like it came with the wrong one. It did come with the green tube, which is shorter and larger inside.
There is a time between ingnition of the burner and the exhaust pipe gettin up to high enough temperature during that water will condensate within the exhaust-pipe. (Ever seen watter dripping out of the exhaust pipes of cars in morning traffic during winter?) That water needs to be able flow out of the exhaust pipe, otherwise it will catch carbon, that carbon will then remain within the pipe even after the pipe went hot enough to dry the water out. After toing that often enough, the carbon will build up sufficiently to hamper airflow and you will get carbon buildup all the way up to the burning chamber. It can be even worse if your exaust has an U shape somewhere as then the water alone can already form a resistance to the exhaust flow as the exhaust has to force it's way through. This leads up to an even earlier carbon buildup all the way from, including, the burning chamber.
Very interesting video. Looks like You have a much better mounting place for the heater. I have mine up high in my shed and I used the same marine through hull fitting going through my vinyl siding. The only extra thing on my siding was one of those flat mounting plates for light fixtures. I bought a 3/4 inch pipe cap (in the hardware section at Home Depot where they sell angle iron and threaded rod) I put a plastic drawer pull knob on this and once the exhaust has cooled down, I put this into the through wall fitting. This will keep insects, birds, mice and rain out........Take care, Bluefin.
That's a great idea. Thanks for sharing and commenting.
wow this is crazy! I got over 6000hrs on one of these before the bearings went out in the fan motor and its clean inside
but i do have the setting for the fuel turned down just abit and only run diesel
Thanks for commenting. I only run new diesel from the pump. I feel like all my problems were related to the exhaust setup I had. It’s been running great since.
Your heater worked as it was designed. Because of the plugged exhaust it caused the high limit switch to activate .
Yes, that gave me some piece of mind knowing that the safety switch worked perfectly. Thanks for commenting.
dang! 3 GSD's? you rock!
The carbon buildup is from the condensation build up in your up-turned exhaust pipe. It creates back pressure and causes carbon buildup in the combustion chamber like what you found.
Thanks for commenting. It has been running great since I made the change to the exhaust. I should have picked up on it initially but I did not. The new install is a way better setup.
Keep your exhaust as short as possible and always running down over with no more than 270 degrees of bends 👍🏻🇬🇧
You nailed the carbon issue, on the exhaust, slow build up and then she quits. When they start smoking it is a good indicator of poor combustion.
Your filter is on backwards.
I have the same unit mounted the same as you do with those kind of shelf brackets and the exhaust running thru my block wall in the shop. I don't use the muffler but I did use a small piece of expanded metal to keep any bugs from crawling into the exhaust. Mines been running for a couple weeks now with no hickups!!
Thanks for the comment. I took the filter out completely. Running no problem for 3 months so far.
Carbon build up will always happen with this type of heater but usually very minimal with clean diesel, the level of build up you had is what i would expect from burning dirty waste oil, it could be that because it was fuel starved due to the cap vent it might have caused an incomplete burn situation and this would cause the even clean diesel to not burn fully and cleanly and so deposit carbon.
Great vid, lots of people make that mistake with a bend vertical. A natural by-product of diesel is unfortunately water, it will gather and eventually collect in the bend reducing the flow/emissions of exhaust fumes and then you get that carbon build up in the chamber down to poor exhaust. Everyone flapping here on the filter "wrong way" pffft. as long as the diesel flows the burner doesn't care what way it enters! When you had the burner out not sure if you noticed the flat chrome cap with tiny flat head rivets on. Well, if one of these pops the lid bends out like a bimetallic strip slightly when hot and you can't see it as it's hidden until you seperate the fan from the housing. If the heater keeps going out on you this is normally the problem due to too much airflow into the burner blowing out the flames. Something I learned last year, just a heads up incase!! 👍
Thank you for sharing all of that information. Yeah, I took a little beating on the filter but it’s working fine so I left it alone
No worries, not sure if you have it by another name over there but I actually do a 50/50 mix with kerosene and my natural soot levels dropped 40% as it burns a little hotter and this in return allows you to run the heater on a lower setting. All the best from the uk!! @@paulethier3416
@@crazy-diamond7683 Maybe I’ll try that mix. Thanks for the tip.
Make a little hood over your exhaust pipe out some thin or whatever you have and blowing wind could blow rain water in there, good video!
Towards the end of the video, I did install a little rain shield
You should also have MUCH more protrusion from the shed wall of the exhaust not least because of
a) exhaust heat ... Considerable ... Charring or even setting fire to the wood cladding of the shed
b) the exhaust, having protruded by at least 2-3 inches (50-75mm) should have a downward elbow of about the same to ensure exhaust gases that condense as they reach to outside are forced to drop away from the exhaust. Anyone fitting such a unit from scratch should ensure that the exhaust through the wall angles down ward sufficiently to enable and condensate to drain easily. Ideally the last 30cm/12" should be changed to be solid copper pipe with a smooth bend from the vertical drop inside, to the downward angle outside. This will ensure there is no possibility of condensate catching in the corrugations!
Turning to high for last 10 mins before shutdown will help burn away soot gathered on low setting
good job, i think you would get more heat out of it if you drill another hole in the wall and suck fresh air for your burn chamber instead the heated air from garage and blowing this out the exhaust.,which will cause cold air to enter the garage and cool it.i might be wrong but i did this on my wood burner and it feels right.
Thank you for commenting and for the suggestion. I’ve thought about doing that I just haven’t done it. I does make sense.
The soot issue is something known as rather common for oil burners. That they need the carbon and soot removed every so often. It's just because you are burning a hydrocarbon. Modifications only delay ho often you have to clean them out. The size is partially the problem, too.
Thanks for commenting. Yes, the soot took me back to my oil burner service days 38 years ago. I'm hoping this will take me through the rest of the winter and I'll service it for next fall.
Hi, just a suggestion, run the heater on full power for a sort time prior to shutting down so as to try to burn out any carbon that is in the heater..
Thank you for commenting. I always have to run on hi because the of the lack of insulation in my garage. I feel like the issue I was having was because of the moisture in the low section of the exhaust pipe. Since this video no issues it has been running perfectly
I use an Autoterm 4 D now for 4 years and had not any issue.
Good informative video. Just one thing, the loud music. I put in an ear bud so as to not bother my wife while watching video's and I had to have the volume up a little to be able to hear you speak then the music hits and it blows the ear bud out. So I adjust the volume then I can't hear you when the music stops. (I thought the only thing I had to do when the music stops was to find a chair.)
My apologies. Since making this video I have update the camera I use and the editing software. Thanks for the comment.
I’ve heard a few people say that they will soot up regardless it’s just apart of the upkeep
I agree it’s just like an oil burner
@@paulethier3416 saw a gentleman boil fish guts to make oil for a lantern and got to looking it has generally the same flash point as diesel was wondering if in a hard spot it would work for fuel. Could only imagine the neighbors would love the smell 😂
The moisture is a byproduct of burning diesel. You were making it run rich due to backpressure of having to boil through the puddle in the exhaust. I run mine on 20% waste engine oil and will see how this runs over long term.
I think your diagnostic was spot on, and I think your carbon buildup was epic. After 2 years of running my heater I had to clean that little orifice where the glow plug screws in. After 4 years of service I decided to start feeding it used motor oil at a rate of 1 quart per 2 gallons of diesel. I'm starting to get the e-08 flame extinguished code. Do you have the book with all the codes? Reckon I can give them if you want.
Thank you for commenting
Two weeks back same machine new (in case) exactly the same had to open it clean it then run kerosene in it ,never had this problem on my other 2 over last four years did notice that glow plug was not screwed in fully on dismantling
Yes the glow plug was loose
My thinking was to much fuel getting into the burn chamber????
@@johnhealy9231 2 machines with identical problems, could be they are being sent out with incorrect settings for pump rate/fan speed. Or maybe even a bigger pump, if they've used a 28ml pump instead of the usual 22ml you would be about 25% rich on the fuel/air mixture. You would need a CO meter to set the correct pump speed.
The metering pump only squirts 0.02ml per stroke so it's not actually "pumping.
Takes 250 knocks to fill a teaspoon.
It's best to fill throw pressure fuel line all the way to the metering pump with an inline " squeeze bulb"
If the system dumps more fuel in the priming process than the tiny glowplug/ atomising screen can cope with, tgen poor combustion and smoke will result.
Process should be fan on first, glowplug drawing up to about 10 amps and igniting the atomized diesel. Once itsrunning at temperature the glow plug will switch off. The carbon can be reduced by using 50% paraffin/ kerosene with your diesel.
Also reduces humming and cold starts.
Low intake and exhaust resistance is important too.
Failed gasket will recycle exhaust gasses like an EGR.
Leaking carbon monoxide into the warm air ducting could be dangerous.
Check the glowplug rubber and fuel pipe rubbers are ok and seated properly....
Thanks for commenting and for all of this great information.
The new exhaust routing will likely solve the carbon problem but what is the elevation where the heater is used? Elevations above 3000' can be an issue if the heater isn't tuned for high altitude. Many controllers can adjust the air/fuel mixture by changing the fan speed vs pump Hz, and some controllers have a "plateau" setting that leans out the mix. Couldn't see yours well enough in the video to tell which type you have.
We are at 1200ft elevation
Pout flex sel or spray foam around the pip on outside
Both of those will burn so I would recommend against either of those.
That is what is known as incomplete combustion. Your air to fuel ratio is the problem
i have same setup no problem for 2 years
meabe you got flodet, on out side i have 45 down
Just a little tip I run my heater off a jary can I drilled a hole in filler cap save you from spills.
That’s a great idea. I think I’ll give it a try. I literally just filled the tank for today 😂
@@paulethier3416 it works great I just take the cap off one of my other cans when I go get my fuel
Thanks for the tip!
@@paulethier3416 no problem happy to help
Hello Paul,
It's a very nice video! You do a great job!
I hope you can help me with the heater. How do i conect the remote control with the heater ? I have to push a button but witch one ?
Thank you!
Best regards from germany:)
Not sure I don’t use my remote. Thanks for your comment
permetex red or copper hi-temp sealant would probably be the answer for gaskets.
Thank you for the tip. All I had was the black at the time. I will get a tube of the hi temp you recommended to have on hand.
Did I change the wire scream in the unit where the fuel line goes in
I did not change the screen but I did clean it. Thanks for the question and commenting.
burning hydrocarbons - gives an exhaust gas containing CO CO² and H²O.
. The H²O escapes as super heated steam, it can and will condense in your tailpipe and if it can it will collect somewhere if it finds a chance.
No need to look for an external water source to get into your system.
I prefer holding both the up arrow & down arrow to prime, because when you release them the pump stops running.
Thanks for the tip.
everyone you must run these things on full blast every so often-- to burn out that carbon--- when shutting down- drop don slowly from 5 to 4- to or u could get overheat codes..
Jesus she’s smokin like the Orca. Ur gonna need a bigger boat!
i think the title was a bit click bait, that kind of carbon buildup is pretty common with these things. you did share a lot of other really good information however so thumbs up brother.
Thank you.
Couldn't condensate from the exhaust ice up in the external metal outlet? The metal outlet seems a small bore, so any moisture from the heater (not just rain) may be blocking the outlet? Condensate pipe from a gas boiler in the UK is around three times as big, and made of plastic to prevent such freeze ups. Adding more metal in the rain deflector will now just be a bigger heat sink, so the outlet may actually get colder and ice up more readily. Bigger bore, out of plastic drain pipe and insulated would be my next move
Ok, thank you for commenting. I was thinking about a large metal pipe but never though about plastic. It would have to be hi temp because this thing does get very hot.
Just wondering, will the muffler that comes with the heater fit on the outside of the through hull exhaust vent? I'm thinking of doing the same exhaust set up as you, but want to muffle the exhaust to avoid neighbor complaints. Would prefer to have the muffler mounted outside my garage so that it can drain moisture through the muffler hole and not leak fumes through the muffler moisture vent into my garage.
I’m not sure. You might need to a a coupling on the outside.
Please don't bother with that "fuel filter" it will just fall apart. I know, it happened to me!
Two thoughts.... The exhaust pipe temp is well over 300 degrees while the unit is running, shouldn't that burn off any moisture in the pipe? And second, all oil burning furnaces need to be cleaned seasonally, so maybe the soot build up on these units is unavoidable? Mine only has a few hours on it so time will tell.
Thank you for the comment. I'm really not sure what the cause was or is. I was shocked to see that it was that dirty. I've only been using it for about 8 weeks and only two days per week. Hopefully this is resolved. Good luck with yours.
The very best fuel you can run is JetA fuel it’s just supper clean and you will never have soot problem. Where I live JetA fuel is cheaper than diesel and some times I will run 50-50 jet a & diesel and at the end is season make sure you run jet a to clean it out and try to burn as much as you can because kerosene loves to draw moisture in your fuel tank so that’s what I mean to burn as much of the kerosene out and refill with diesel and you won’t have any moisture problems.
As longer the exhaust pipe is and as colder the environment as faster the exhaust pipe cools down.
In the muffler of the Chinese diesel heater kits is a small moisture drain hole built in.
You can also buy special exhaust pipe bends with condensation drain.
try burning kerosene with the heater set to high and see if that cleans it up.
Loved the vid the suspence nearly killed me ,did u ever find the problem
I feel like it was a combination of the vent on the cap and my improper installation. Its been working great ever since.
Refit the fuel filter , cheaper to replace filters than a fuel pump ,
Remove lagging from exhaust, fit a12v mini fan to blow all that wasted heat in to your w,shop . Fit new gaskets asap , you don't want carbon monoxide in side your w.shop
Most importantly install a carbon monoxide alarm
Hi From Aus, also have a look at that mesh that's next to the glow plug mate. If that clogs up it will be very hard to fire up. Cheers mate.
Thank you for commenting and for the tip
Take the heat wrap off your exhaust, you get more heat in the garage from your exhaust pipe...
Good thought maybe I'll give it a try. Thanks for commenting.
Incomplete combustion, exhaust was restricted. Surprised it ran as long as it did.
Learned a lesson for sure. But, its been working great since. Thanks for the comment.
Will this run off 18volt battery? Was thinking of wiring it to power Tool battery to run a few hours at a time
I'm not sure!
What did you use for your indoor 12 v power source?
110v to 12 volt power supply
If you have gtl diesel (gas to liquide) yoused alot for boats in skandinavia... it wont make all these carbon problem...
Could see it on My car in the egr before look Like yours an now a 1.5 year 45.000km on gtl its still clean...
And then its good whit the nox partikel.... 😁😁
I don’t think we have that here. I’ve never heard of it
The blocked breather hole in the fuel cap is a problem that screwed me and my friend for days when we had problems with his car, such a simple thing really. Who knew?
Mine seems to be working ok. Thank you for sharing this information.
Condensation buildup in the exhaust would not cause carbon builup in the chamber. You’re obviously running your fuel too rich for your altitude, and that can be tuned.
Thanks for the comment. How do you tune that?
@@paulethier3416 ua-cam.com/video/SmCYQu53umk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Vortecks
I use automotive steel brake lines for fuel lines..
That a great idea. Thanks for sharing and commenting.
Same thing happened to me blocked up exhaust so much it backs up into the chamber
Thanks for commenting. Happy I’m not alone
I'd guess that your exhaust set up was causing excess back pressure in the combustion chamber. This is most likely causing poor air fuel mix and dirty carbon rich combustion. If you have to extend the exhaust, I'd do a straight pipe set-up or single large clean radius bend. Best with ridgid tube instead of flexible tube.
I've had no issues since I modified the exhaust. Thanks for the comment.
I think it might have been the hard line that fixed a too much fuel problem. My new one is doing this. Old was OK for 3 years, this one clogged on first tank. It has a short green fuel line I am going to change next.@@paulethier3416
Ha ha, sounds like a Deltic deisel tryna start up but a lot less smoke!.
Hopefully I get a few more people guessing. I’ll post the instrument this week sometime
i set mine up in my old shop ran flawlessly then i moved set it up and strarted it got all the errorcodes E2 E3 E5 E8 E10 turned out it was the battery not liking the deep cycle charge i accidently gave it by not checking the charge settings first and the fuel line was kinked so ill be ordering that white hard line because temporarily i just have the cover off and the tank sitting at a 45 degree angle as to not kink the line. as for the pass through its just held on with drywall screws until my crippled ass can find some help. im hoping the exhaust port being 4 feet off the ground there wont be any issues when we get 4 feet of snow in February
Yeah the fuel line upgrade is nice compared to the stock hose. Thanks for commenting and I had no idea that the battery could throw all of those codes. Good to know.
Some of these have "arctic" mode or something to that effect....ot leans out the fuel for higher altitude areas.....that might clean er out
I’m not sure if mine does but I will check. Thank you!!!
If you run this thing on a low BTU setting for long periods, turn it to it's highest setting for a few minutes before turning it off. This will burn off the
carbon buildup that it accumulated by running it at a temperature too low to burn off the soot.
Thank you for sharing this information and for commenting.
Paul every time you use the Heater do you put it on max before you shut it down that causes blocking 👍
Yes I do. Because my garage doesn’t have very good insulation it always run on high
Hi Paul have you tried to change the pump for a stronger one, might help with the performance and stop that annoying tick have a look at David Mclooky his channel is all about the Chinese diesel heaters hope this helps he's Scottish 👍
Soz mate it's McLukie
What is the claimed issue with the fuel lines? And did you think there would be no warranty assuming they knew you didn't have the exhaust all downflowing? Did the instructions mention that was needed?
The claimed issue is the green hose is to soft and expands and contracts on each pump. The clear hose is more ridged and delivers more consistent flow of fuel. I read about this problem on another video and when mine died I took the opportunity to switch it over to the cleaner hose. No issues so far. I didn't even think to warranty anything, I figured it was to much of an issue and the instructions are so vague it really didn't give much information. Its been running great since I made those small changes. Thanks for commenting.
Hey Paul, how is the exhaust hall vent holding up? Looks like you have vinyl siding. Have you had any issues with heat around the wall vent where it connects and goes through the wall? I'm thinking g of doing the same thing but am afraid of excessive heat starting a fire. Cheers from Canada
No issues so far. I typically only run it on weekends when I'm working in the garage. I turn it on around 8am and run it until 6pm. I drilled the hole a little bigger and I wrapped the thimble with exhaust wrap and then installed it. I always run it on high so its always producing the most exhaust heat possible.
@@paulethier3416 Sounds good. Thanks for the reply. By the way, you should post the blueprints for that custom made amazing exhaust cover😁
Had mine mounted more or less directly to my shed wall with pipes running through a metal tube made from rain gutter parts. It still made the wall warm enough that I couldn't stop worrying about it. Bought a longer exhaust pipe and mounted it like his re-install. Seems to work better.
@@fondy44 cheers
Does it automatically adjust the mixture for altitude? Where I live is about 3500 feet above sea level and there doesn't seem to be a problem, but I wonder if it's running too rich. I'm not having any carbon issues but I haven't had it very long and so far I only ran it for about 20 or 30 hours..
I’m not sure if it adjust automatically. Since I fixed the exhaust it’s been running perfect.
@@paulethier3416Okay, thanks. I'm not seeing any smoke and the exhaust smell isn't very strong, so either it does, or I'm not high enough for it to make mush of a difference. Maybe come summer, if I feel ambitious I'll mess with it a little.
What happens if there is a sudden power cut during operation?
Many people have pointed out to me that it should be run on a battery so if the power goes out it won't be shut off immediately and there will be time to turn it off properly if needed.
If you look at installation docs, exhaust pipe should point down at exit.
Also points noise at ground.
Ok, thanks for sharing this great information.
i might have missed it in the video but how long have you had / how long have you ran this heater? and on what power?
I installed it right around Thanksgiving and I’ve ran probably 20 gallons of diesel fuel through it. I believe it was my exhaust pipe that was causing the issue time will tell.
@@paulethier3416 interesting. You explained your theory well. I’ll be looking forward to seeing if you have better luck with the carbon build up. I haven’t seen that before when running diesel
The pump will pull the fuel through and if there was no vent your tank would have collapsed.
I ran my diesel heater in the arctic in -35 and the fuel pump actually failed. I replaced the pump with a new unit and it was back up and running in no time.
Thanks for sharing a comment.
E-10 can be easily solved by repriming and restarting, you will hear the vacunm suck in air into the tank as you unscrew the fuel cap if there is no airflow through the tank cap. dont forget to run the heater at full chat for ten mins before shutdown to keep the burn chamber clean. just push a hot needle through the cap centre or use a 1mm drill bit. E-08 is a fueling issue but it could just be air bubbles in the line cavitation from the pump possibly e-08 and e-10 can show up together. if you turn the fuel pump mounting upside down so the weight of the pump is pressing down on the rubber mount it will be slightly quieter. looks like shes flooding need to go into thwe special settings menu either 1866 code or 9009 code for the special settings and adjust the fan speed settings to 5000 uppermost limit and 1500 lower limit. if it is set to 4500 uppermost factory settings over fueling will occur causing it to flood and flame out.
I hope you don’t get anything dripping from exhaust down the side of the garage.
We will see. It’s right at ground level so if it does it won’t be to bad. I’ll have to make another shield 😂😂
Hey buddy I watch you clean your diesel heater out can I suggest something I haven't had problems with mine for 6 years if you take and you run some diesel fuel injection cleaner in it it'll help keep that combustion clean and I've never had no problems never changed no fuel pump never change fuel heater never changed the glow plug and it still run for 6 years I've never had not one problem with it brother So I would suggest to take and clean it out and put some of that diesel injection cleaner in there already thank you let me know how that works out for you thank you
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I'll give it a try.
@@paulethier3416 yer welcome it works for me i havent done nothing to mine in 6 years
Yeah I agree was actually going to suggest this until I saw your comment dpf cleaner or a fuel additive should keep that burn chamber clean
About how much dino fuel will this use at a high setting per hour?
On high I burn one tank in about 10 hours. Thanks for commenting.
I just ordered the 8kw unit , I'm wondering about the heat going thru the wall , did you insulate the exhaust pipe inside your wall ? I'm seriously thinking of putting the unit outside my shop , under a covered patio and running the fresh air inlet and the heater pipe thru the wall , because the unit seems really loud if it were inside , thoughts ?
Thanks for the question. I used a thimble to go through the wall. There should be a link in the video description. I also wrapped the exhaust to protect from radiant heat. My wall temp right around the thimble is typically right around 160 or 180 degrees F.
@@paulethier3416 ok , I did see the link for the thimble but was wondering about the inside heat of the wall. I also ordered a roll of the heat tape ( not sure of the proper name of it ) to wrap the exhaust pipe , thanks for the response.
Make sure you wear rubber glove when wrapping the exhaust. The wrap is part fiberglass and your hands will be itchy for a day or so. I learned that from experience. Also, when you first fire it up it will smoke. If your in a garage or shop you will probably have to open the door.
@@paulethier3416 oh ya great tip , thanks , I'm seriously thinking of putting my unit outside of my shop , under a covered patio or even an enclosed box , then just running the heating tube thru the wall.
That sound like a great idea. I'm not sure how weather proof these heaters are but with a roof over it I feel like it could work really well.@@scottweedin7570
Can someone please help me. I'm looking for that round chrome exhaust thimble. I tried to find it online - no luck. Thanks
Here is a link to the one I used. amzn.to/3DnieVE
@@paulethier3416 Thank you.
If you run these at a low temperature setting you need to crank them up to wide open for 15 minutes to burn out the carbon before shutting them off or you will have this problem.
Thanks for the comment. I learned that the hard way. Since I made this video I've been doing that and no issues so far.
That Was Great That You Got It Fixed All Up Good & Right, NOW Would Show A GOOD PICTURE Of Your Flag On Your House & Where Did You Get It, Cause It Looked Like It's AWESOME & THEY Make A New Kind of Fuel Pump That Is QUIET & LOOKS About The Same ???
IFound That Out Just Before I Watched Your Video , Mel's Big Van Small World , & Sherburn Outdoors, Johnmc47 hasn't put out a new video for awhile but you can still watch the videos.
Thanks for the comment. What flag?
dont know if you figured out the drip fuel pump is on a closed system
I feel like I know how it works but could you explain “drip” fuel pump. I thought it was a diaphragm pump
All have way to much Hz settings so it clogs it up now ore later.
U save a bunsh of fuel and get the same heat
were you using just diesel gas ? How many hours do you have total on this heater ? YTy
Yes I use diesel right out of the pump. It only has about 40 gallons of fuel through it right now. I can’t say for sure, but I’m pretty confident the way I had the exhaust installed caused this issue
i run mine on low, quite alot of the time... which aint good... the soot builds up.. doesnt get hot enough to burn it out... So once a week, I leave it on, flat out, for about 30 mins..... All good
That's great information. Thanks for sharing and for commenting.
Just curious how many hours of runtime for that kind of build up?
I’m estimating about 120 hours, but I feel like most of it was because of the exhaust setup I had. Thanks for the question.
How did the permatex work out? Did it fail?
No issues so far and no carbon monoxide leaks either. Thanks for the question.
@@paulethier3416 how long did u leave it to cure?
I don't remember. 1-2 hours I think.