I would highly advise drying your prints after washing them before you cure as you most likely will lose small details. Some people even use a heatgun for hair dryer to make sure prints are as dry as can be. Thanks for the awesome video. I watch every upload and was actually looking into buying a Saturn 2 as my wonderful Mars 3 Pro is proving to be too small for my needs. Keep up the great work!
I have watched a few of your videos now in order to get up to speed on 3d printing tech. I am really impressed with your high quality and thoughtful presentation skills.
The good thing about resin printers is the time to print is purely based on hight. You can fill it up completely corner to corner and it will still take the same time as one model
This is the review I was waiting on. I have a plan to use a resin printer to remake some long lost products. Using that scanner will help. And I will finish them with spray type chrome. Thank you so much.
Great video as always 👍😃 One way to clear the Isopropylalkohol is to cure the mixture. Then the reason hardened and fall to the ground. Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃
As others have noticed, wear a proper respirator and dry your prints before curing. Also you didn’t level the build plate correctly, check the temperature range on the resin as your garage is probably on the cold side, and I like to use a VOC monitor even though I wear a respirator.
I see you didn't use the leveling method described in the manual. It looks like your method works great. Only thing I would say is that you should air dry the printed parts before curing. You did a great job with the review without going into a lot of settings or supports. Great printer for the money and love your review.
I enjoy your channel and have subscribed. I'm relatively new to 3D printing and I do have one item to ask about that I don't think you covered, it's how long resin printed models last. I have both FDM and Resin printers and one problem I noticed with my resin prints is they don't seem to last more than a few months. They become very brittle being exposed to incidental light in my home office and simply break very easily once a few months old. Now I will add that I am using water based resins and I do have a wash and cure machine that I use for post processing. I dropped a few month old model about 4 foot onto carpet and it snapped off a piece that was actually pretty sturdy when freshly printed. After it broke, I checked how easy it was to snap pieces off of it and I was able to break a lot of pieces off easily. Some other models also had the same failure mode. My office doesn't get any direct sun where the models are placed, only incidental light from a well lit room. Have you noticed models becoming more brittle after a few months?
@@N4CR My resin prints weren't thermally cycled though, just sitting on a shelf getting daily indirect light. These weren't sitting in the sun daily. I haven't noticed the same models I printed in PLA doing the same and they are at least twice as old as the resin prints now.
Of course large models will use more resin, it depends on how you slice them and how you hollow them out. Also, most everything I resin print is never flat on the build plate and uses supports, which is very easy compared to my FDM printers. 1000g of resin for $16 will go a heck of a long way.
Hello, I just wanted to thank you and your brother for making one of the most consistently informative and direct video channels that I sub to in the printer world. I actually bought my Ender S1 Pro as a result of the great video of that model that you made. I am now looking into dipping my toes into a resin printer. I really want to get the Anycubic DLP unit but $600 is hard to justify, so I am aiming in the range of about half that price, starting out. I was considering the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro with the clean and wash stations, I literaly had them in the cart, ready to buy; but another youtuber expressed concerns over the slicer program, Chitubox, that the Elegoo server moving to going to be subscrition based at a whopping $170 per year, which is crazy to me. So I postponed the sale until I know more. Then I moved over to checking out the Anycubic Photon Mono X2. I was wondering, if you, or my fellow subscribers, are familiar with Anycubic model and/or, how it compares to the Elegoo. And I was curious about your thoughts on the slicer being so heavily tied to Chitubox, if you see that as an issue going forward. I know that I can probably swap in Lychee, or another slicer, but because the main board on the Elegoo is branded Chitubox, do you see that as kind of a predatory proprietary thing going forward. I am not a professional 3D printer user and will be using them for fun and printing useful things and models, so a compelled subscription costing almost $170 anually, for a $300+ printer is kind of offensive to me, and would be a deal breaker. To be fair though, I am not fully informed on the topic, as I only saw it on one or two videos on youtube. Curious on your thoughts?
Saturn 8k is on sale now that Saturn 3 12k is out. Prices are close. For people who don't do mini models, 12k is not needed despite 50% higher detail. Printers build XY is about the same. Z is not that much different either.
Yeah, you definitely want a 3M respirator with appropriate P100 vapor filter if you're around resin for any extended amount of time. I've read conflicting things on the hazards of resin fumes, but better to wear PPE and find out you didn't need it, than not wear it and wish you had.
I am highly awaiting your review of the zonestar Z8PM4 4color mix extruder.. and I would like to see a battle between both multi color printers the Z8PM4 ($469.00)vs the Bambu lab X1 carbon ($1499.00)
7:30 That print was an unfair comparison between an FDM printer and a resin printer. As an experienced FDM printer user, you should know that you will get the best results with that type of printer by printing one item at a time. When you printed all 4 items at the same time on the FDM printer, you were asking for lots of stringing. That's what you got. 😁
No offense but your retraction settings on your fdm printers seem off. I have almost no stringing even on fine details with my ender 3 pro and Ankermake. I think that would make these comparisons more equal even though for ultra high detail a resin printer will win (at least for the foreseeable future)
You speak so eloquently! Like you, I prefer FDM and since my print lab is in the basement of my home, I can't have resin/resin printers inside. I'm afraid the pets (cats) could wind up being exposed to the resin
The Saturn 2's lazy LCD sealing option (using tape) is a pain. Also, the FEP sheet installation design with dozens of screws, requiring 20-30 minutes to change is a huge pain in the butt and my resin vat was leaking from the start so I had to clean up the LCD screen and replace the tape on my second print. Those irritations aside, this is a terrific printer. The quality is superb and the speed is impressive compared to FDM (given the massively superior quality). What I love about resin is that the figures are heavier and much harder once cured, so suitable for retail if you are printing figures. Not tried 8K yet - I don't need the detail, and the resin is outrageously expensive. Going to disagree with you on the white residue - that doesn't come from over-curing - it comes from underwashing/drying.
A few weeks ago I got a notice about win of FLSUN400 from your channel and I answered kindly for doing a donation to an education institute or school and unfortunately I didn't notice it was a fake account so keep an eye on any abusements of your channel.
Fdm is stronger and can be made more flexible, there's a filament for everything. But that Also means there's a setting for everything and if you get it wrong you just wasted 14 hours on a worthless print. Sla is much faster and easier, no time needed to wait for the bed and nozzle to heat up either
@@Martial-Mat That's good to know, thank you. I am looking to purchase a new printer and not really sure what route I will be going down (FDM or Resin) Shame resin can't do multi-colour
@@shufflex704 Hey Gary, if I could only afford one, it would be hands down, the Bambu Carbon with AMS. The Saturn 2 is fast, empowering, it makes beautiful prints, and contrary to what this lady is saying, the two extra stages are easy and trivial (and weigh those stages against the HUGE amount of effort it can take to plan, remove and clean up support on any FDM). In return, you get fantastic, high quality feeling, detailed prints that are VERY easy to remove supports from. However, colours and different materials are SO important unless you are painting miatures, and as the lady said, functional parts, and the Bambu is SO easy to use that there really is no contest.
11:40 I agree with you. I still prefer FDM printers instead of Resin printers. The smell; the messy resin; the washing; the curing process, the high cost... I can't stand it. I only use it when there is no other option.
I’ve gotten better small models FDM. I use, 0.16 to .20…and slow the speed to 30-60mm/s or lower. it’s never gonna be as detailed as a resin but I didn’t get stringing and they looked pretty darn good. In PETG
that surgical mask does nothing to filter incoming air - only good for blocking spray that you exhale. you should get proper ventilation and a real respirator mask
I don't get the dislike of washing and curing. It's much faster than having to clean up stringing/sanding with fdm and almost unheard of to lose a print 3 hours in. The only drawbacks I think are the fumes and the short shelf life of resin
Both fdm and resin has their cons and pros. Resin can be more work ( i said can) but there is no denying the quality over fdm. And generally if you are wanting to make say car parts, i would use a fdm. That be why i have both FDM and resin, haha
I would highly advise drying your prints after washing them before you cure as you most likely will lose small details. Some people even use a heatgun for hair dryer to make sure prints are as dry as can be. Thanks for the awesome video. I watch every upload and was actually looking into buying a Saturn 2 as my wonderful Mars 3 Pro is proving to be too small for my needs. Keep up the great work!
An air compressor is the best. The whitening isn't from curing, it is from dirty IPA left on your print.
I have watched a few of your videos now in order to get up to speed on 3d printing tech. I am really impressed with your high quality and thoughtful presentation skills.
The good thing about resin printers is the time to print is purely based on hight. You can fill it up completely corner to corner and it will still take the same time as one model
This is the review I was waiting on. I have a plan to use a resin printer to remake some long lost products. Using that scanner will help. And I will finish them with spray type chrome. Thank you so much.
Its really nice to see elegoo thinks of small features like air filter
Thank you always for your thorough, honest and professional reviews! God bless you always.
Great video as always 👍😃
One way to clear the Isopropylalkohol is to cure the mixture. Then the reason hardened and fall to the ground.
Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃
I’m in the the market for a resin printer and this looks promising.
Keep Up The Exceptional Content.
As others have noticed, wear a proper respirator and dry your prints before curing. Also you didn’t level the build plate correctly, check the temperature range on the resin as your garage is probably on the cold side, and I like to use a VOC monitor even though I wear a respirator.
the chopstick idea is great :)
Awesome review! Thanks.
I see you didn't use the leveling method described in the manual. It looks like your method works great. Only thing I would say is that you should air dry the printed parts before curing. You did a great job with the review without going into a lot of settings or supports. Great printer for the money and love your review.
Well done as usual. Great job.
Thanks again. Love the chopsticks part. ;)
Your comparison with FDM versions was exceedingly valuable.
I think you should have mentioned however, that you were not using 8K resin.
I enjoy your channel and have subscribed. I'm relatively new to 3D printing and I do have one item to ask about that I don't think you covered, it's how long resin printed models last.
I have both FDM and Resin printers and one problem I noticed with my resin prints is they don't seem to last more than a few months. They become very brittle being exposed to incidental light in my home office and simply break very easily once a few months old. Now I will add that I am using water based resins and I do have a wash and cure machine that I use for post processing.
I dropped a few month old model about 4 foot onto carpet and it snapped off a piece that was actually pretty sturdy when freshly printed. After it broke, I checked how easy it was to snap pieces off of it and I was able to break a lot of pieces off easily. Some other models also had the same failure mode.
My office doesn't get any direct sun where the models are placed, only incidental light from a well lit room. Have you noticed models becoming more brittle after a few months?
I don't know anything about resin printing but some plastics can get brittle in low or high temp cycles..
@@N4CR My resin prints weren't thermally cycled though, just sitting on a shelf getting daily indirect light. These weren't sitting in the sun daily. I haven't noticed the same models I printed in PLA doing the same and they are at least twice as old as the resin prints now.
agreed, smaller parts look awesome and if you the money they make huge resin printers now. just remember big resin takes a lot of resin and time.
Of course large models will use more resin, it depends on how you slice them and how you hollow them out. Also, most everything I resin print is never flat on the build plate and uses supports, which is very easy compared to my FDM printers. 1000g of resin for $16 will go a heck of a long way.
@@sbr-synrosimbugracing9338 yeah forgot the warping on the bottom.
Very nice review. Tnx👍
Hello, I just wanted to thank you and your brother for making one of the most consistently informative and direct video channels that I sub to in the printer world. I actually bought my Ender S1 Pro as a result of the great video of that model that you made.
I am now looking into dipping my toes into a resin printer. I really want to get the Anycubic DLP unit but $600 is hard to justify, so I am aiming in the range of about half that price, starting out.
I was considering the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro with the clean and wash stations, I literaly had them in the cart, ready to buy; but another youtuber expressed concerns over the slicer program, Chitubox, that the Elegoo server moving to going to be subscrition based at a whopping $170 per year, which is crazy to me.
So I postponed the sale until I know more. Then I moved over to checking out the Anycubic Photon Mono X2.
I was wondering, if you, or my fellow subscribers, are familiar with Anycubic model and/or, how it compares to the Elegoo. And I was curious about your thoughts on the slicer being so heavily tied to Chitubox, if you see that as an issue going forward. I know that I can probably swap in Lychee, or another slicer, but because the main board on the Elegoo is branded Chitubox, do you see that as kind of a predatory proprietary thing going forward.
I am not a professional 3D printer user and will be using them for fun and printing useful things and models, so a compelled subscription costing almost $170 anually, for a $300+ printer is kind of offensive to me, and would be a deal breaker.
To be fair though, I am not fully informed on the topic, as I only saw it on one or two videos on youtube. Curious on your thoughts?
Thanks 🙏
Is that an air heater what you've got plugged in the Saturn? BTW, it is important to dry off the pieces before curing.
excellent video - thank you.
8k vs 2k comparison at 10:22... Just me or does the 2k actually look better?
Saturn 8k is on sale now that Saturn 3 12k is out. Prices are close. For people who don't do mini models, 12k is not needed despite 50% higher detail. Printers build XY is about the same. Z is not that much different either.
Dammit now I want one
Thanks for sharing the chopstick technique. I enjoy your reviews, even though I don't do FDM printing.
I’m totally gonna get some long chopsticks!
Manual says to level the machine after removing the resin tray.
Greetings. What do you think of kingroon kps 3 pro or ender 2 pro? Thank you, you are doing a great job
Nice comparison between resin and FDM printing capability. I often wonder how many Eiffel towers they have laying around in their garage.
Hello great video as normal but could you tell what resin you used in this video, thank you
what about fdm with a smaller nozzle?
If you wanna print small items on an FDM with great detail you can, just need to switch to a 0.1 nozzle.
That mask is NOT ok for fumes. That's basically a sneeze guard.
Yeah, you definitely want a 3M respirator with appropriate P100 vapor filter if you're around resin for any extended amount of time. I've read conflicting things on the hazards of resin fumes, but better to wear PPE and find out you didn't need it, than not wear it and wish you had.
It would be better for them not to include a mask than supply one like that
Was just going to say that!
yup I hope she sees this and gets something better. That stuff can make people really sick after breathing it just once
She had her fume extractor going the whole time.
I am highly awaiting your review of the zonestar Z8PM4 4color mix extruder.. and I would like to see a battle between both multi color printers the Z8PM4 ($469.00)vs the Bambu lab X1 carbon ($1499.00)
Great video. I ask myself what the designer drunk as they placed the usb port at the back?
You did a wonderful just.
7:30 That print was an unfair comparison between an FDM printer and a resin printer. As an experienced FDM printer user, you should know that you will get the best results with that type of printer by printing one item at a time. When you printed all 4 items at the same time on the FDM printer, you were asking for lots of stringing. That's what you got. 😁
How strong is the resin parts?
There wasn't any Saturn vs mars comparison ... isn't it ?
If you are printing cooling ducts resin printers work awesome
How about the materials for this vs fdm printers? Durability, UV- resistance, cost?
No offense but your retraction settings on your fdm printers seem off. I have almost no stringing even on fine details with my ender 3 pro and Ankermake. I think that would make these comparisons more equal even though for ultra high detail a resin printer will win (at least for the foreseeable future)
You speak so eloquently! Like you, I prefer FDM and since my print lab is in the basement of my home, I can't have resin/resin printers inside. I'm afraid the pets (cats) could wind up being exposed to the resin
ABS and Nylon fumes aren't exactly breathable, either.😏
@@davepaturno4290 that’s why I have multiple carbon filters , BOFA fume extractors and a pair of large air purifiers in the shop 🤓
@@WhereNerdyisCool Great! Do they exhaust to the outside after being filtered?
@@davepaturno4290 no. I’m working on tubing and fans to vent everything outdoors. With 12 enclosures it’s going to be a challenge.
> The machine basically comes in one piece
Music to my ears
10:25 wait.. the 2K version looks way sharper
So, is there a weight limit on these printers?
The Saturn 2's lazy LCD sealing option (using tape) is a pain. Also, the FEP sheet installation design with dozens of screws, requiring 20-30 minutes to change is a huge pain in the butt and my resin vat was leaking from the start so I had to clean up the LCD screen and replace the tape on my second print.
Those irritations aside, this is a terrific printer. The quality is superb and the speed is impressive compared to FDM (given the massively superior quality).
What I love about resin is that the figures are heavier and much harder once cured, so suitable for retail if you are printing figures.
Not tried 8K yet - I don't need the detail, and the resin is outrageously expensive.
Going to disagree with you on the white residue - that doesn't come from over-curing - it comes from underwashing/drying.
A few weeks ago I got a notice about win of FLSUN400 from your channel and I answered kindly for doing a donation to an education institute or school and unfortunately I didn't notice it was a fake account so keep an eye on any abusements of your channel.
that is all of youtube, spam
@@creepinonthebabes yeah I'm a bit naive 🙄
this review seems compensated no cons only pros i usually feel your reviews to be fair and honest but this was not one of those.
Curious to the differences for functional parts like petg or abs vs resin.
Fdm is stronger and can be made more flexible, there's a filament for everything. But that Also means there's a setting for everything and if you get it wrong you just wasted 14 hours on a worthless print. Sla is much faster and easier, no time needed to wait for the bed and nozzle to heat up either
Resin is much harder, brittle, and appears more temperature resistant.
👍🏻👍🏻
Do NOT buy a Mercury Plus wash and cure station - it does not hold the full build plate. The Mercury XS bundle offers a greater capacity.
Bamboo x1,pip... problem solved lol
I printed a tiny warhammer char and I was shock how good it was, including its face!
I have both. A Carbon can't remotely compete with the detail of a Saturn 2. Fantastic printer though.
@@Martial-Mat That's good to know, thank you. I am looking to purchase a new printer and not really sure what route I will be going down (FDM or Resin)
Shame resin can't do multi-colour
@@shufflex704 Hey Gary, if I could only afford one, it would be hands down, the Bambu Carbon with AMS. The Saturn 2 is fast, empowering, it makes beautiful prints, and contrary to what this lady is saying, the two extra stages are easy and trivial (and weigh those stages against the HUGE amount of effort it can take to plan, remove and clean up support on any FDM). In return, you get fantastic, high quality feeling, detailed prints that are VERY easy to remove supports from. However, colours and different materials are SO important unless you are painting miatures, and as the lady said, functional parts, and the Bambu is SO easy to use that there really is no contest.
@@Martial-Mat Thanks Mat
@@Martial-Mat What isnt trivial about resin printing though is changing resins/ replacing fep. Its always such a mess.
11:40 I agree with you. I still prefer FDM printers instead of Resin printers. The smell; the messy resin; the washing; the curing process, the high cost... I can't stand it. I only use it when there is no other option.
The included masks cannot protect you from the toxic fumes. You need a respirator rated for organic vapour.
I’ve gotten better small models FDM. I use, 0.16 to .20…and slow the speed to 30-60mm/s or lower. it’s never gonna be as detailed as a resin but I didn’t get stringing and they looked pretty darn good. In PETG
Dry after washing!!!!!
Those fdms shouldn't be stringing that badly...
Yes, they did. If you attempt to download the model and print all four at once in their original scale, you will see it.
that surgical mask does nothing to filter incoming air - only good for blocking spray that you exhale. you should get proper ventilation and a real respirator mask
I don't get the dislike of washing and curing. It's much faster than having to clean up stringing/sanding with fdm and almost unheard of to lose a print 3 hours in. The only drawbacks I think are the fumes and the short shelf life of resin
Both fdm and resin has their cons and pros. Resin can be more work ( i said can) but there is no denying the quality over fdm. And generally if you are wanting to make say car parts, i would use a fdm. That be why i have both FDM and resin, haha
the FDM printer you are using must be trash. i print minis all the time with mine.
Try printing a few of these at the same time www.thingiverse.com/thing:3332365
Traitor!!!!!! No FDM Print fan would be caught dead with one of those gloopy things.;)
(x2+y2+rx)2=r2(x2+y2)
Why the kid sounds like she 35?
Great review! Thanks!