In my DIYer non-professional opinion, learning to work on cars is easy and cheap in today's world. Learning to work on cars SAFELY requires common sense, which is something that a lot of people especially in today's world severely lack.
If it was my shop, I wouldn't do the test drive without having ever looked at the car from down under. Especially the new york specials lol. Seen enough rolling death traps at EricO's channel.
You always give me a chuckle and smile on my face with the brake Kleen Ray. Thanks for all you do to keep things light. I even hold up my invisible spray can everytime I hear shinny.
Ray, please keep your flangies out of dangerous moving parts! I would be unhappy if you were injured and not able to make these informative and entertaining videos. Your hands, fingers and experience are your livelihood. Also, you got a taste of what us northerners go through with rusty repairs. But, we don't have to deal with the summer heat. So, every location has drawbacks.
"don't have to deal with the summer heat" Say that to my thermometer outside, that told me a week and a half ago that it was 98°F out there, with at least 80% humidity, in upstate NY. And that's how bolts under the hood rust. The humidity sticks to everything, including the very flat surface of my double covered griddle, and rusts the heck out of it.
Ohio resident here.... save the snowy, long dark evenings and always gray sky for campfire time stories. They will think we make this stuff up as we go along.
Hey! Northern New Yorker here. I can confirm our under hood bolts rust. My truck has bolts that hold the fan shroud in and they’re rusted somehow. The things you’d expect to rust will not fail to rust but somehow us New Yorkers could rust carpet.
Nothing like a northern vehicle just to see the rust. Hopefully the Honda will live on for many more years with such low miles. Great video once again Ray!
Northerner Here, Have a old 08 Civic, if you do the work to take care of parts, washes after salted road use about 2-4 times a month, then they will go forever, with little rust. Even the mechanics up here think my car has less rust on it than most. Actually the only main rust issues I have had was the Cat and I have 2 small spots starting in the rear quarter and one on the hood. And You are absolutely right Ray Ridgelines are not Trucks. They are Minivans with the back cut off to make it look like a truck.
I wish people in the comments would realize that UA-camrs dont record/post every single thing they do. Meaning, just because you don't see it in the video, doesn't mean he didn't do it.
Every Northern Mechanic laughs at Ray's definition of major rust. We need to send Ray up to SMA and work on a few cars there, it could be a good crossover.
@@DeeGee-mv6eqI don't think acknowledging that Rays perception of a rusty car is vastly different than what you would see in the rustbelt is quite the definition of fanboyism
@@DeeGee-mv6eq You know there is thousands of northern mechanics, not just the ones on YT? Its just as far as YT mechanic, South Main is the only one I know that is in the north AND seems to have a friendly relationship with Ray.
Hey Ray, I like how you do the old school test drives before servicing. It reminds me of my grandpa telling how the family doctor would make house calls, usually accompained by the preacherman. You learn so much from how a person/family lives that helps the diagnosis, and the preacher keeps mom occupied so you can actually talk with the patients. Nowadays everything is so corporate and "efficiency" driven that things get missed or ignored.
I think I've seen over 100 episodes, that was my first comment. There are a lot of comments. I had no idea how many. You Eric , Iven and Jimmy are all I can fit in. You can get Jimmy to pull the dash out of your truck, if needed. He will charge 1 hour for 2 . I would not take some of the jobs he takes. Adopt dogs public.
Given the issue with that RF rotor being wrong or otherwise rubbing...I hope the LF was pulled apart for inspection and to compare the rotors for differences in dimensions. It is nice seeing what the rust belt cars look like even with the undercoating applied. Thanks for the great video Ray🙂
I was thinking the same about the driver's side. I would have used an oil based coating. Usually, they do need to be reapplied every 2-5 years. The coating on the truck is hard and looks nice when applied. That's it.
Funny thing is the dust shields/backing plates are gone and Ray doesn't even notice they are gone. Honda made those things out of some really cheap materiel. It'll be interesting to see part 2 when he tries to remove the rear brake rotors and there's nothing left holding the parking brake shoes.
Living on the fringe of civilization in northern Canada , being a retired mechanic and knowing springs tend to get almost glass like in severe cold I'd guess early one cold morning that rear wheel hit a pothole and "clink " that spring snapped .
My wife has owned a 07, 12, and a 17 Ridgeline. She loved them all but, just purchased a new Pilot. The 07 had 198k and it ran/ rode fantastic when she sold it.
I owned a 2007 Ridgeline. The fab clutch would sometimes act up. My fix was to rotate the temperature knob from high to low a couple of times to get it to engage.
Pads is missing the wire-spring that helps keep the pads away from the rotor. They sit in the little tiny holes on the top side, facing outward towards the caliper. AZ sells a kit for it.
He must have just not filmed it. If you look towards the end of the film you can see the driver's side tire removed. So it looks like he did inspect it. More than likely how he came to the conclusion it was the rotor
5:02 The Ford Capri my dad had when I was a kid in the 80s would beg to differ. We took it to the beach all the time and the beach salt completely ate it up.
Great job as always! But dang Ray, shut off the engine before you reach down amongst all the spinning fans and belts that, in one instant, can traumatize your hand/fingers so badly as to put you out of work, possibly forever!
Ray I think I saw 2 wires on the compressor connector meaning it is not grounded via the body, and you didn’t check the black ground. I also think some systems switch the ground via the BCM so worth a check.
That thing is in excellent shape for a northern vehicle. It's still got paint underneath it. This vehicle is from New York, but Wisconsin would have that thing with some added ventilation holes
I'm in Kenosha and you ain't lying!!! My poor '03 Dakota is slowly but steadily disappearing. Frigging salt. I have 4wd so they can just save that crap for food! 😂
When hooking up those A/C lines 12:40 make sure to keep hoses away from hot exhaust manifold (and moving parts 32:15) or you will make holes in your hoses... stopping da-fixiting and costing da-cash. Still: more important to keep fingers in tact 32:50 rather than clipping them in fan, or roasting them on engine. For the A/C compressor, you can hook a plug to A/C clutch for manual test, and listen for clutch click, even if engine off... Like most folks, you prefer not to crack A/C system open if can avoid it. Good luck with fixit vid part 2.
Hot wiring the A/C clutch with the engine off is an excellent tip! Could also expose the possibility of a near rotted out wire to the clutch. In the salty North we don't use a voltmeter or even a powered test light to check for power on 12 volt circuits. We learned on trailer wiring before the days of 22 gauge wire and electronics.
Yes, Thank you. BRADENTON. It is confusing, mailing address Bradenton but I just checked the map and shop looks to be physically located in unincorporated W Samoset.@@craigcraigster4999
Great job Ray!! A shady shade tree mechanic would've upcharge on the caliper for a loose bolt. I'm in North Indiana by Chicago and Michigan and I know the effects of salt . 😎😎
My dad lived in Michigan City and when he came down to visit, his fenders be flapping and a rust pit on wheels Until Undercoating became a thing up there. lol
On these rotors, our shop learned that aftermarket Chinese rotors have inconsistent quality. We’ve discussed this with vehicle owners countless times to where we just refuse to use these garbage parts. It’s a safety issue, so just stop going to Starbucks for a pay period and purchase quality parts. Your life depends on it.
Eric O did a fantastic video about why NOT to aftermarket undercoat a car. Nice looking Chevy, undercoated with a bunch of black tar... And he was popping off rusted metal all over the undercarriage. It's either Krown or Fluid Film rust treatment.
Both of those products are quality products. More like an oil treatment. Some of the earlier products would cause this issue. Do you remember the name Zeebart. It would trap moisture between the product and metal causing flaking. Any product that hardens in place is bad. Here in the north vehicles rust quickly. Crown or Fluid film will slow down that process. I have no affiliation with these rust proofing systems, except buying and using them. They work and are a good investment.
I saw that video, I believe it may have been Ziebart, which is well known for not doing what is claimed to do, keep out the moisture due to cracking and letting moisture get behind the coating and trapping it there.
Now we know why the bolts were left loose on the caliber bracket! Yikes, some serious executive thinking going on there. BTW Ray, if you don't stop sticking your phalanges into the fan and belt area you'll have to rename your channel Three Fingers Freddie Repairs.
Very good video Ray. It is funny that the driver never complained about the car pulling to the right with the brake problems he had. They will never get the car aligned as rusty as it is. Setting the toe after replacing the tie rod will be the only thing they will be able to do.
Thanks Ray another great video, will look forward to Part 2 now on the Ridgeline Strut insert and hopefully a new compressor as well. Ok who is the other guy working with Troy ( AKA The Shadow) on the vintage Red Ford Truck? a new member of Ray's Auto Clinic as we didn't get a good long look at him, so hope it is that busy that you needed another Mechanic and will get an introduction soon. Keep Safe Keep Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘❤❤❤❤
I own one of those. Make sure you depress the left hand temperature control button to engage "auto" temperature control. Also switch it off "dual" control using the button at the bottom and to the right. Then see if the compressor engages. "Auto" auto engages cooling based upon the temp settings on the display.
there was voltage at the connector, so the compressor was being told to engage, the issue is either a break in the wire leading to it (unlikely) or the clutch is just locked up from rust, or broken internally (much more likely)
Unfortunately it's quite easy to get rust on those bolts here...blowing snow snow blown up into the bay while driving...even ungaraged cars it can happen. Life in the rust belt, it's a big reason a large pipe is part of the mechanic toolbox...and a blow torch and welder as well 😅
As a Western NY dweller I can sympathize with a rusty beater. How much road salt the municipalities have stock piled in the beginning of winter is usually worth a couple spots on the local news.
Nice catch Ray! Observation is always the key in front-line diagnoses. Sometimes you just have start fixing things as you find them since part a can be bad and messed part b and c also.
I would recommend replacing both coil springs. Putting a new on on one side and leaving the rusty old on on the other would certainly make the rusty side drop and it's likely going to fail soon anyway.
On my brother in law's car, the previous Technician installed a rotor that was 1/8 of inch smaller in diameter. The break pad had an interesting wear pattern with its edge wearing over the top of the rotor. It also caused a vibration while braking. Attention to detail is required when working on vehicles.
You checked the compressor clutch for voltage, but you never verified the ground. That was a two wire connector so the ground is not on the compressor body, it goes somewhere else for ground. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.
Ray, when a vehicle comes to you from NORTH of the Mason Dixon Line, put it on the lift BEFORE you test drive it. After you've seen underneath, a test drive may not be such a good idea....
Dude. I'm in the process of replacing the valves on my 08 Pilot, and some of the brackets are just falling oof. That rust on those bolts is mild lol. I'm re-plating the hardware in Zinc. Our was undercoated many times. Frame, is great, and she had 350K Km on her in Northern Ontario.
Not all compressor clutches are grounded internally. Check the ground side of the plug providing power to the compressor clutch. Northern, rusty underside could have caused the compressor clutch to lose it's ground. Many years ago I bought a customer a compressor for just that reason. Replaced the compressor, it still didn't work. Bad grounds because of rust was the problem.
When regular driving during winter you have trucks in front of you spraying salty water mist from salted roads. That's how you get your engine bay bolts and brackets to rust. Same thing happens in the Netherlands and Germany...
being a long time resident of Iowa, I will tell you that rust gets EVERYWHERE. Those sway bar bolts aren't even rusted that bad. If you heat put some penetrating oil on those, they might free up. Rust always brings the possibility that things will seize, but it usually doesn't hurt to try.
Good work Ray, amazing that they didn't have more problems having the wrong brake parts. What mechanic or person that did that job put those folks in danger. That car is pretty crusty, but could be expected considering where it came from. It is hard to say if that undercoat helped any. I think undercoating should not be done when the car is brand new, do rust reversal treatments instead. Maybe do an undercoat down the line. reason being is if the metal absorb water the undercoating may make it hold it longer. Also Ray, they do have oxidation problems in Florida around the beach areas. The salt air will eat them up too, and not just the undercarriage. Part two I think will be interesting, replacing the broken springs and A/C work. Have a good one. Oh, BTW, did you ever get that engine in the subaru?
.....and Troy just shakes his head and goes on working. LOve it.
Never ceases to amaze me how some folks survive their own "repair" work.
And he drove from New York to Florida with his family in the truck.
I would check the other 3 rotors just to be sure.
Hell I have done plenty of work on my own cars. Over the last 36 yrs and never had a failure.
In my DIYer non-professional opinion, learning to work on cars is easy and cheap in today's world. Learning to work on cars SAFELY requires common sense, which is something that a lot of people especially in today's world severely lack.
...and some techs.... been to 2 shops for my diff and BOTH of them screwed it up.!!!!!
I’m glad you got your own shop. Having worked at a dealership for 30 years I can’t even watch your old videos at the dealership you used to work at.
I'm from northern Ontario Canada and Ray that is not rust I'll show you rust.
That Shake Hands With Danger reference caught me so off guard, I'm still cackling! Thanks for all the great videos Ray!
Make brake rotor shinny again ! I vote for Ray
Having seen the state of those front brakes I would have been rethinking just how safe that test drive really was. 😅
Man you are not kidding..
If it was my shop, I wouldn't do the test drive without having ever looked at the car from down under. Especially the new york specials lol. Seen enough rolling death traps at EricO's channel.
You always give me a chuckle and smile on my face with the brake Kleen Ray. Thanks for all you do to keep things light. I even hold up my invisible spray can everytime I hear shinny.
Ray, please keep your flangies out of dangerous moving parts! I would be unhappy if you were injured and not able to make these informative and entertaining videos. Your hands, fingers and experience are your livelihood. Also, you got a taste of what us northerners go through with rusty repairs. But, we don't have to deal with the summer heat. So, every location has drawbacks.
"don't have to deal with the summer heat"
Say that to my thermometer outside, that told me a week and a half ago that it was 98°F out there, with at least 80% humidity, in upstate NY. And that's how bolts under the hood rust. The humidity sticks to everything, including the very flat surface of my double covered griddle, and rusts the heck out of it.
On the west side of Florida where Ray's shop is located, the weather is very nice even during summers, but the east side is a different story
Ohio resident here.... save the snowy, long dark evenings and always gray sky for campfire time stories. They will think we make this stuff up as we go along.
@@Estranged180 Salt dust acquired during winter driving might be a factor also
Nothing like putting yourself between scalding hot surface and a spinning fan!!AWESOME
You cannot forget about that outer tie rod either. It would suck to have to put it back up all over again if you had to wait for that part also.
😊 I know you were playing with the DeLorean but I still miss the circular Cheetah opening. Another great video!
Hey! Northern New Yorker here. I can confirm our under hood bolts rust. My truck has bolts that hold the fan shroud in and they’re rusted somehow. The things you’d expect to rust will not fail to rust but somehow us New Yorkers could rust carpet.
As an ex upstate New Yorker, I always thought the function of the carpet was to hide the rust...
And you would think stainless steel doesn't rust - BUT NO !! it will.
@@terminallygray just bought a brand new BOSS snow plow last year it’s a 7 foot stainless it’s already rusting smh
Watching all of the rusted out vehicles on multiple channels makes me think im never leaving Arizona.
Up here in the rust belt you need a car wash subscription and undercoating. FluidFilm FTW!
Holly cow! The tech or customer that put that caliper bracket on Intentionally left the bolts loose so the wheel would turn! Insane.
Nothing like a northern vehicle just to see the rust. Hopefully the Honda will live on for many more years with such low miles. Great video once again Ray!
Northerner Here, Have a old 08 Civic, if you do the work to take care of parts, washes after salted road use about 2-4 times a month, then they will go forever, with little rust. Even the mechanics up here think my car has less rust on it than most. Actually the only main rust issues I have had was the Cat and I have 2 small spots starting in the rear quarter and one on the hood.
And You are absolutely right Ray Ridgelines are not Trucks. They are Minivans with the back cut off to make it look like a truck.
The rule up here is don't pick it up until you look under it!
I wish people in the comments would realize that UA-camrs dont record/post every single thing they do. Meaning, just because you don't see it in the video, doesn't mean he didn't do it.
Exactly…there’s a lot of editing here to trim the fat
Every Northern Mechanic laughs at Ray's definition of major rust. We need to send Ray up to SMA and work on a few cars there, it could be a good crossover.
Eric O fanboy
@@DeeGee-mv6eqI don't think acknowledging that Rays perception of a rusty car is vastly different than what you would see in the rustbelt is quite the definition of fanboyism
@@DeeGee-mv6eq You know there is thousands of northern mechanics, not just the ones on YT? Its just as far as YT mechanic, South Main is the only one I know that is in the north AND seems to have a friendly relationship with Ray.
Hey Ray, I like how you do the old school test drives before servicing. It reminds me of my grandpa telling how the family doctor would make house calls, usually accompained by the preacherman. You learn so much from how a person/family lives that helps the diagnosis, and the preacher keeps mom occupied so you can actually talk with the patients. Nowadays everything is so corporate and "efficiency" driven that things get missed or ignored.
I like them too but sometimes I get anxiety when he gets the bad ones and still drives them I don’t want the man to get hurt driving these death traps
Oh man! Finally! I've got a '10 ridgeline in NJ......oh the rust. Make sure they got the recall about rusted gas tank straps. Serious recall!
🇦🇺instead of breakfast viewing I couldn’t wait for tomorrow I had to watch Ray this evening diagnostic
I think I've seen over 100 episodes, that was my first comment. There are a lot of comments. I had no idea how many. You Eric , Iven and Jimmy are all I can fit in. You can get Jimmy to pull the dash out of your truck, if needed. He will charge 1 hour for 2 . I would not take some of the jobs he takes. Adopt dogs public.
That is why the caliper bolts were not tight. Tighten them and the mismatch locked up the rotor. Loosen them and it would just turn.
That rubber undercoat only helped with the rust process
Never go full undercoat. Lanolin undercoating is way better. Stays wet and nourishes the metal, doesn’t trap rust.
@@WalterMelons I use rust check coat and protect. Definitely not as good as lanolin but does the job for me
That kind of undercoating just traps the salt and rusts much faster
That crappy undercoat does a great job of covering up the rust, typical used car dealer treatment.
looks pretty.@@scrappy7571
Given the issue with that RF rotor being wrong or otherwise rubbing...I hope the LF was pulled apart for inspection and to compare the rotors for differences in dimensions.
It is nice seeing what the rust belt cars look like even with the undercoating applied.
Thanks for the great video Ray🙂
I was thinking the same about the driver's side. I would have used an oil based coating. Usually, they do need to be reapplied every 2-5 years. The coating on the truck is hard and looks nice when applied. That's it.
The LF tire was on the floor so I would assume yes.
Funny thing is the dust shields/backing plates are gone and Ray doesn't even notice they are gone. Honda made those things out of some really cheap materiel. It'll be interesting to see part 2 when he tries to remove the rear brake rotors and there's nothing left holding the parking brake shoes.
Living on the fringe of civilization in northern Canada , being a retired mechanic and knowing springs tend to get almost glass like in severe cold I'd guess early one cold morning that rear wheel hit a pothole and "clink " that spring snapped .
I love watching you troubleshoot as I think of solutions from 50 years of personal experiences.
Ray- I got the willies when you reached into that engine bay near that fan when it was running ! I'm not a mechanic but PLEASE be careful.
My wife has owned a 07, 12, and a 17 Ridgeline. She loved them all but, just purchased a new Pilot. The 07 had 198k and it ran/ rode fantastic when she sold it.
Being's your shop has great visability from the highway/bridge with tons of traffic everyday you might consider a BIG BUSINESS sign on your lot!
I was waiting to see how long it took for you to mention replacing both springs…………10:54 in. Glad you suggested it.
I owned a 2007 Ridgeline. The fab clutch would sometimes act up. My fix was to rotate the temperature knob from high to low a couple of times to get it to engage.
I've survived and thrived doing my own repairs and maintenance. Never a issue and I've been doing so since 1975.
Pads is missing the wire-spring that helps keep the pads away from the rotor. They sit in the little tiny holes on the top side, facing outward towards the caliper. AZ sells a kit for it.
@@SimrKhera probably not, but it extends the brake pad life so that it doesn’t ride on the rotor and have an uneven brake pad.
thankyou Ray another excellent upload,looking forward to part 2,,have a good weekend,,👌👌
If the incorrect rotor was fitted, perhaps the rotor on the other side is incorrect if they were fitted as a pair.
I would have thought he'd check the other side as well. Or compared rotors before ordering a new one. Maybe he didn't record that or edited it out.
He must have just not filmed it. If you look towards the end of the film you can see the driver's side tire removed. So it looks like he did inspect it. More than likely how he came to the conclusion it was the rotor
@@terrymcguire6478he could of also recorded it and That part didn't make the Edit
What about the rears as well?
@@terrymcguire6478he constantly records/edits out things to cut down the length of his videos. He cuts out anything he considers "boring".
5:02 The Ford Capri my dad had when I was a kid in the 80s would beg to differ. We took it to the beach all the time and the beach salt completely ate it up.
Great job as always! But dang Ray, shut off the engine before you reach down amongst all the spinning fans and belts that, in one instant, can traumatize your hand/fingers so badly as to put you out of work, possibly forever!
The bridge of test drive, so close yet so far away. We see you!
Ray I think I saw 2 wires on the compressor connector meaning it is not grounded via the body, and you didn’t check the black ground. I also think some systems switch the ground via the BCM so worth a check.
That thing is in excellent shape for a northern vehicle. It's still got paint underneath it. This vehicle is from New York, but Wisconsin would have that thing with some added ventilation holes
I'm in Kenosha and you ain't lying!!! My poor '03 Dakota is slowly but steadily disappearing. Frigging salt. I have 4wd so they can just save that crap for food! 😂
When hooking up those A/C lines 12:40 make sure to keep hoses away from hot exhaust manifold (and moving parts 32:15) or you will make holes in your hoses... stopping da-fixiting and costing da-cash.
Still: more important to keep fingers in tact 32:50 rather than clipping them in fan, or roasting them on engine.
For the A/C compressor, you can hook a plug to A/C clutch for manual test, and listen for clutch click, even if engine off... Like most folks, you prefer not to crack A/C system open if can avoid it. Good luck with fixit vid part 2.
Hot wiring the A/C clutch with the engine off is an excellent tip! Could also expose the possibility of a near rotted out wire to the clutch. In the salty North we don't use a voltmeter or even a powered test light to check for power on 12 volt circuits. We learned on trailer wiring before the days of 22 gauge wire and electronics.
Rear springs are available separately, but I would have also replaced the struts, too.
Don't forget the right side tire rod😅
I don't comment on your videos very often , however I just wanted to tell you how much I really enjoy them.
As a tech residing in the rust belt, I am more than happy to send you more rusty crusty junk to work on.
Ray is The Ace in sarasota thats for sure, awesome repairman.. wish i have him in Sweden..
Bradenton now...(sp. ediited)
Previous employer was in Sarasota.
@@desotosky1372 Did you mean Bradenton?
Yes, Thank you. BRADENTON. It is confusing, mailing address Bradenton but I just checked the map and shop looks to be physically located in unincorporated W Samoset.@@craigcraigster4999
@2:42 the "Shop from the top" view. @16:05 when you shut the box, I was yelling "CAP" to replace the missing service port cap.
That RIGHT-IN-YOUR-FACE phone mount is wild.
Ray, you are so not from up north. Up here, rust gets everywhere!
You got work from the big smokey crapfest that is New York......word is getting around about your quality of work. That's awesome
Ray ordering cases of Brake cleaner "Yes that is correct, I want the cans half full"😂😂😂
26:25 ... you're the only person I know who actually re-installs that helical rotational securement device.
Great job Ray!! A shady shade tree mechanic would've upcharge on the caliper for a loose bolt. I'm in North Indiana by Chicago and Michigan and I know the effects of salt . 😎😎
I worked in Elkhart, IN. for just one winter, frame on my car got salted many times...
My dad lived in Michigan City and when he came down to visit, his fenders be flapping and a rust pit on wheels
Until Undercoating became a thing up there. lol
On these rotors, our shop learned that aftermarket Chinese rotors have inconsistent quality. We’ve discussed this with vehicle owners countless times to where we just refuse to use these garbage parts. It’s a safety issue, so just stop going to Starbucks for a pay period and purchase quality parts. Your life depends on it.
Exactly. Just about any no name Chinese auto part is hit or miss (more likely miss).
Better get With Chinese parts !! IT'S The Future unfortunately...
unfortunately the no name white box chinese parts just f**king suck. low quality steel and no adherence to part standards. @@watchinglclowns9890
I don’t see a bunch of bad wiring in your ceiling anymore. Looks good.
Eric O did a fantastic video about why NOT to aftermarket undercoat a car. Nice looking Chevy, undercoated with a bunch of black tar... And he was popping off rusted metal all over the undercarriage. It's either Krown or Fluid Film rust treatment.
Both of those products are quality products. More like an oil treatment. Some of the earlier products would cause this issue. Do you remember the name Zeebart. It would trap moisture between the product and metal causing flaking. Any product that hardens in place is bad. Here in the north vehicles rust quickly. Crown or Fluid film will slow down that process. I have no affiliation with these rust proofing systems, except buying and using them. They work and are a good investment.
I saw that video, I believe it may have been Ziebart, which is well known for not doing what is claimed to do, keep out the moisture due to cracking and letting moisture get behind the coating and trapping it there.
Eric O fanboy
Now we know why the bolts were left loose on the caliber bracket! Yikes, some serious executive thinking going on there.
BTW Ray, if you don't stop sticking your phalanges into the fan and belt area you'll have to rename your channel Three Fingers Freddie Repairs.
LOL - 3 finger Freddy, good one paul !
_I never heard anybody complain about vehicles being from up north Raymond_ 😮
Very good video Ray. It is funny that the driver never complained about the car pulling to the right with the brake problems he had. They will never get the car aligned as rusty as it is. Setting the toe after replacing the tie rod will be the only thing they will be able to do.
Thanks Ray another great video, will look forward to Part 2 now on the Ridgeline Strut insert and hopefully a new compressor as well.
Ok who is the other guy working with Troy ( AKA The Shadow) on the vintage Red Ford Truck? a new member of Ray's Auto Clinic as we didn't get a good long look at him, so hope it is that busy that you needed another Mechanic and will get an introduction soon.
Keep Safe Keep Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘❤❤❤❤
I was wondering the same thing.
needs to work on those cars sitting outside on the lot and sell them.
Woo Hoo, Decently long video for the win today!! You absolutely ROCK Ray...
I own one of those. Make sure you depress the left hand temperature control button to engage "auto" temperature control. Also switch it off "dual" control using the button at the bottom and to the right. Then see if the compressor engages. "Auto" auto engages cooling based upon the temp settings on the display.
there was voltage at the connector, so the compressor was being told to engage, the issue is either a break in the wire leading to it (unlikely) or the clutch is just locked up from rust, or broken internally (much more likely)
Unfortunately it's quite easy to get rust on those bolts here...blowing snow snow blown up into the bay while driving...even ungaraged cars it can happen. Life in the rust belt, it's a big reason a large pipe is part of the mechanic toolbox...and a blow torch and welder as well 😅
The upper midwest moddo... "It can't be tight if it's liquid" Acetylene is your best friend...
As a Western NY dweller I can sympathize with a rusty beater. How much road salt the municipalities have stock piled in the beginning of winter is usually worth a couple spots on the local news.
NYS Capital District resident here. I concur! The local TV news highlights the same...
ANOTHER!!! I love it every time it happens.
Them cube lights are the best. Atleast 15 of the 20 mechanics i work with have them
Nice catch Ray! Observation is always the key in front-line diagnoses. Sometimes you just have start fixing things as you find them since part a can be bad and messed part b and c also.
I would recommend replacing both coil springs. Putting a new on on one side and leaving the rusty old on on the other would certainly make the rusty side drop and it's likely going to fail soon anyway.
Clearance, Clarence!
Welcome to my life of fixing buffalo cars lol hey that was scary putting your hand so close to that fan 😅
With all that rust, I was expecting an Eric O cameo appearance.
Another outstanding video Ray your amazing but the most important thing is to have your self a great day Ray
You didn't use any brake grease ? Being a northern car is spray some electrical cleaner in the connection leads.
On my brother in law's car, the previous Technician installed a rotor that was 1/8 of inch smaller in diameter. The break pad had an interesting wear pattern with its edge wearing over the top of the rotor. It also caused a vibration while braking. Attention to detail is required when working on vehicles.
You checked the compressor clutch for voltage, but you never verified the ground. That was a two wire connector so the ground is not on the compressor body, it goes somewhere else for ground. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.
Troys face was perfect what the hell is he talking about 🤣
Ray, when a vehicle comes to you from NORTH of the Mason Dixon Line, put it on the lift BEFORE you test drive it.
After you've seen underneath, a test drive may not be such a good idea....
The thick undercoating actually promotes rust.
How the heck do you get content every day? I love it but my heart feels for you!
Broken springs on the ridge lines and pilots of that era were very common. There was a Honda TSB on them.
my 32xi bmw likes to break rear springs every few years. mechanic blamed it on rust but a couple weren't at all rusty. i just think that they're junk.
The older ford taurus was worse. They broke then punctured a tire. Fords fix was some kind of shield to block the springs from damaging the tires
Never heard of the value cover gasket leak. I'm currently at 330k miles, runs smooth as the day is long!
Remove bolts in star pattern Raymond! My OCD sense is tingling! 😤 -mind narration-
Ray, don't forget the right side tie-rod end.
I'm in the UK.
That's what they call mint on the Wirral.
Dust it over with satin black to freshen up maybe.
Dude. I'm in the process of replacing the valves on my 08 Pilot, and some of the brackets are just falling oof. That rust on those bolts is mild lol. I'm re-plating the hardware in Zinc. Our was undercoated many times. Frame, is great, and she had 350K Km on her in Northern Ontario.
I know for some money is tight. But if your going to fix one side you might as well do both sides. Good job, Ray.
I was thinking he hadn't even checked the other side yet and he's ordered one Rotor. 🤦♀
bro the inside of the shop is looking good!
Good brake clean effects ALWAYS gets a like from me Ray!! Cheers brother!
Good video as always 38:43 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Not all compressor clutches are grounded internally. Check the ground side of the plug providing power to the compressor clutch. Northern, rusty underside could have caused the compressor clutch to lose it's ground. Many years ago I bought a customer a compressor for just that reason. Replaced the compressor, it still didn't work. Bad grounds because of rust was the problem.
I looked back carefully and there is only one wire in that A/C connector.
Welcoming back!
I agree with replacing both springs.....
Maybe the owners wallet disagrees????
When regular driving during winter you have trucks in front of you spraying salty water mist from salted roads. That's how you get your engine bay bolts and brackets to rust. Same thing happens in the Netherlands and Germany...
Northern cars amaze me .... look so pretty on the outside, then underneath ... wow, oh my!
(Here in Georgia, this just isn't an issue)
Rain - Cold - Steel/Iron were not meant to go together. 3 things clash for dominance.
being a long time resident of Iowa, I will tell you that rust gets EVERYWHERE. Those sway bar bolts aren't even rusted that bad. If you heat put some penetrating oil on those, they might free up. Rust always brings the possibility that things will seize, but it usually doesn't hurt to try.
Good work Ray, amazing that they didn't have more problems having the wrong brake parts. What mechanic or person that did that job put those folks in danger. That car is pretty crusty, but could be expected considering where it came from. It is hard to say if that undercoat helped any. I think undercoating should not be done when the car is brand new, do rust reversal treatments instead. Maybe do an undercoat down the line. reason being is if the metal absorb water the undercoating may make it hold it longer. Also Ray, they do have oxidation problems in Florida around the beach areas. The salt air will eat them up too, and not just the undercarriage. Part two I think will be interesting, replacing the broken springs and A/C work. Have a good one. Oh, BTW, did you ever get that engine in the subaru?
Well excuse me jerk@@SimrKhera