@@deplorablelibertarian Chrysler is obligated by laws and regulations to sell functional cars. Chrysler is obligated (or incentivized) by economic law and brand preservation to assure product functionality as long as possible. Of course Stellantis is now bankrupt partly because of selling garbage cars and the Chrysler product line is being ended. This is one or both of those karmic laws doing its job and exterminating them from the market for violating these obligations to government and/or market.
After having 2TIPM fail in my daughters Wrangler and a variety of random faults caused by corrosion on the connectors in the TIPM assembly under the fuse box I can honestly say the engineer who designed these should be put first against the wall. They are a repairable item but I found no one particularly in Australia wanted to do the job. I ended up stripping all of them, cleaning the connectors and copper fittings to an inch of their life and got them going. Good on you identifying the problems, most mechanics cannot. By the way, the pcb inside the TIPM comes out when all fuses are removed. There are several inter connecting layers and all accessible Great respect.
Hey James! We have three Jeeps and two Dodge Journey vehicles. All have been fantastic and reliable. We had the TIPM issues due to the previous owner going off road in the mud and rivers too many times, causing the corrosion and never told us when we bought one.
I said to my wife how easy it would have been to run a scam on the people. A crooked shop would have replaced the 50 cent fuses, then said that they had to replace the computer and charged them $1500. Nice to see an honest mechanic! Great job Ray!
@@Oxmix66 Watch "Just Rolled In" and see the kinds of junk death traps that right now are on the road- and the customer refused repairs-and of course there ARE shops that will do just what you posted
A former co-worker, who had excellent diagnostic skills, had to help a family member with a Dodge with occasional shut-off while running problems. Let it sit, and drive away. Dealer said new PCM, over $1k. Fortunately, they didn’t have it repaired. He found that the ASD relay was hot, swapped it with another relay, no more problems.
I just fixed my Grand Caravan by installing a salvage TIPM. I was getting the P0480 fan code despite the fans working and I had a dealer diagnose it as a failed TIPM. Thing was, I had it rebuilt by an eBay firm. Lesson learned - they didn’t do a complete job. I found the same part number and the build date was two weeks later than mine from a salvage yard. Plugged it in, no programming, and did a hard reset. My van has no codes any longer. Fuel pump relay works, as does the fan. Best running 200k 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan out there, probably. Despite how thrashed it was by the previous owner. 😎
Got a non flood car used TIPM from Idaho for a 2014 Caravan. I dismantled the old TIPM and all the large pins were half way corroded through. Removed the circuit board and cleaned all the green corrosion I could find. Put it back together and it ran for a couple of weeks. The replacement TIPM from Idaho fixed it and it has been good for over a year. Here in Canada we get a lot more internal corrosion on those units due to winter road salt. Also did the metal oil filter housing conversion. They are a ticking time bomb once the get to a certain age.
I don't know if it's been mentioned but there was a recall on these TIPM units for exactly the same reason. Both the fuel pump and start up procedure circuit are known to fail.
Get an oscilliscope with an amp clamp add on, you can easily determine if the pcm is drawing the amount of amps that it should that way and after some time can basically confirm that the current draw doesnt rise. That wouldve narrowed it down to the TIPM with more confirmation. I think ray is an excellent mechanic, i love watching him, but I really think he should get an oscilloscope. Its a crucial diagnostic tool to have for electronic diag. Im surprised he still doesnt use one.
Not a good idea. Your meter has a 10amp quick blow fuse that is about 30 bucks where im at and will pop before the regular fuse ever will. It already popped a 10a fuse so your meter fuse has no chance.
There are a lot of good shops out there. Go find a tool truck, Snap On, Mac Tools, Matco Tools and ask the tool dealer who is the best shop in your area. They know who's good and bad.
I've owned many Chrysler vehicles over the years, and I've learned how to have a good relationship with them. They are very innovative, enjoyable vehicles- as long as you buy a new one every two years. If you keep one more than 30,000 miles, you will think you have been cursed. But those constant problems are just part of the joy of Chrysler ownership.
I’ve owned two Chrysler vans. First van spent 72 days in five months ownership in the shop. Chrysler bought it back. Second van I owned five years and over 150,000 miles. One shop visit for a door hinge covered by warranty on the second van. I’m On my second Ram 3500 dually. Pulled a 41 ft 15,000 pound ( 3400 pond hitch “tongue”weight) fifth wheel RV with my first RAM. Five years of ownership with no problems. Got more than I paid for it when I traded it in on a newer nicer model RAM 3500 dually. Just my experience with the mfg.. Not everyone experience is the same. 😊
I guess I got lucky with mine, I have a 04 Ram 1500 3.7 magnum with 157,000 miles on it and it runs like a new one, wouldn't trade it or sell it for 2 new ones.
My 07 Nitro is going strong. Regular maintenance and not driving like I’m in the NHRA 236k on it. Just changed the original O2 sensors. All cars break down at some point.
I'm not sure I would discount the possibility of a pinched/abraided wire short when an engine has been out and back in, but I agree the totally integrated power module should be replaced with a known-good unit - or sent out to a rebuild service like Circuit Board Medics.
@@MazichMusic I have a ford- just had its first check engine light last week at 31000 miles and 2 yrs old. I’m worried I might be a tow truck company’s next customer!
Check with United Radio in New York, they rebuild clusters, computers and a bunch of stuff. South Main Auto uses them and is quite happy with their work.
Ray, I noticed that when doing the exchange relays test, you put in one of the 5/6 'backwards'. Initially the OMRON script on the relays were pointing the same way.
Ray you missed earlier problem in your diagnosis tree. the ECM TCM fuse had corrosion on it, and the main fuse's for the ECM were popped that corrosion would have caused excessive draw causing the fuses to pop. Otherwise another excellent diagnosis video
"Yeah, this TIPM...this used TIPM looks really great. This is a perfect replacement TIPM...it could definitely be reused." *proceeds to chuck TIPM into giant cardboard box*
Ray has good critical thinking skills. I always laugh at people who think that the only reason a person becomes an auto mechanic is because he can't do anything else. I say it's a Calling and you don't want to do anything else. That was my case. That is who Ray is.
Glad to see you have already learned you can only determine visually how violently a fuse has blown and have to electrically check continuity to determine if the fuse is good or bad. It has been my experience that if the fuse looks good but electrically is bad, the fuse most likely burned out like a lamp due to heat/age/vibration due to a defective/resistive bond between a tab/pin and the fusible element connecting the tabs/pins. Since the window fuse blew after arrival to the shop and is 10A just like the fuse that killed the engine, instead of replacing the TIPM, it would have been better to replace all the 10A fuses in the TIPM that physically appear to have come from the same lot/manufacturer.
With the tipm being a known issue with Chrysler in combination with the fuel pump relay, I think we're all on the same page with your "tryagnostic" Ray.
Honestly, the only thing you can say you diagnosed 100% is that it had two bad fuses. Kind of jumping the gun by recommending a part replacement without a confirmed kill. You know sometimes fuses just go bad due to age etc. Maybe like sitting for months with a bad engine in your parking lot in FL ? Don't let the previous issue with the isolated relay taint your objective diagnosis ,is what I'm saying. Excellent video!
Hope that lady is doing good , and thank you for helping the family out in need. Another reason I have been kinda watching the Caravan saga, is Mom has a 2013 with all the bells and whistles on it to. She is 88 and refractured a old fracture on her right foot, I was taking her to the ER, and went to move the seat, and it wouldn't move, ever try to drive one of these that the seat is set for a short person and I am 6 ft!!, Well went looking at the fuse box, you have to have better eyes than this old man, and in a hurry, just happens that the place she has it serviced since she bought it was on the way, they found a fuse blown, something else I notice raising the hood was the sound of a mouse house in the hood. She has a farm and almost impossible to kill every mouse on 300 acres, but the fuse fixed the seat, BUT one window wont work with passenger side controls, and for some reason one remote we use wont let the tailgate down now, thinking battery on our remote but.. Now I see this TIPM thing and another video somewhere, I HOPE that isn't the TIPM going out of it or WORSE a mouse buffet, my uncle worked at Chrysler and retiree and got her a really good deal through him when she bought it, I had my fill of Chrysler crap on a Reliant K,, They had the Plymouth version that was a REALLY good car, mine wasn't!! EVERYTHING I replaced on it , once a month ya Know, had a different part number, which I knew from a Chevy dealer stint , that was a part that was screwed up from being made, from the factory!! Glad you keep it clean on here I gave her your site to watch hope she subs for ya, and to see what is under the fuse box, that I HOPE isn't being used a mouse hotel!! and what to expect in the future, she has I think 59,000 on it now.
The TIPM should have been replaced when the fuel pump relay portion failed, Now you have more work to put it back to factory when you replace it, Junkyard unit can be another possible repair if you can get a good one with them being on a budget
I had these issues with my 13 GC starting with the fuel pump then occasional problems with crank, both symptoms occurring when battery voltage dropped below ~12.2 volts. Prices for rebuilt TIPMs were $200 at the time for repairing mine or $400 to buy it outright. Junkyard wanted $50. I ended up buying all of the relays to repair 3 modules for about $30 with shipping and fixed everything. The TIPM is relatively easy to disassemble. The board you were having an issue with is held in by several friction components. You kind of have to wiggle it apart. Replacing the relays was relatively straightforward. Just desolder, pull them out, then solder in the new ones. Most of the old relays I took apart had severe pitting on the contacts. A couple did have some moderate carbon tracking, but not too much to worry about.
I appreciate the more detailed explanation of exactly what you were doing with the fuses. Helps more people understand. Also, love the drawer full of little screw drivers, they just keep coming!
Note: before replacing any fuse check the circuit for short and load check it as well with a 5 amp test light ( if ECU or same use a small load ). The fuse blew for a reason.
Nice to see the Van that had a engine put in it free of charge for the family but also sad to see it came back on a tow truck. Typical Tipm Issues for these chrysler's 1:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
@17:26 Red 10A fuse appears to be open, 12v on one side and no power on the other. Lets watch the rest of the video and see if I am correct... @18:29 Check again and there is power. Excellent. Better initial checks are in order...
I had a TIPM replaced in my 2018 jl wrangler. They (the dealership) said that a fuze on the z-bus bar blew, which in turn fried some curcuits in the TIPM. They had to replace it, as well as replace the bus bar. As you said, everything is so integrated that one small problem can take out everything else.
On my 11th Chrysler product in 57 years never had electrical problems. But several models trans troubles. Watching closely now i own a 4.0 2010 town and country 148000 miles been good car
Ray, great work as always. btw, here in good ol Engerland, we pretty much always 'blur' the word 'interesting'. It's actually really nice to hear an American enunciate it in full, the way we probably should too! Because you know how much we have a stick up our fundament about lazy US English (T becoming N, like 'internet' becomes 'innernet', etc)... I've noticed before that you actually take the time with these kinds of words.
You’re probably already aware but here in NEW England, we’ve taken the liberty to eliminate the letter “R” from the English language & replaced it with “H”. So, we have cahs that we pahk around the cawnah. 26 letters are too many. 25 is a nice round numbah.
Not sure if you know about them Ray, but Eric at South Main Auto gets some modules from a refurb/repair place, they don't necessarily have them all, but a repairable one can be turned around, the timing of it's return etc. ask Eric.👍🇺🇸😎
I agree as you said TIPM are prone to go Belly up! I had a 2008 Wrangler R/H/D go belly up recently. Not long ago a 2019 Pacifica had similar problems to yours! The Starter fuse was ok and the wire to the Starter was ok but NO continuity across the Fuse! Break inside the TIPM! Fitted new one and All the problems went away!!
Occam's Razor says the simplest explanation is usually the most likely. With the window fuse also blowing on you when you started the diagnostics, it's more likely than not a wiring issue. I would imagine those two would be on completely different circuits, and completely different harnesses.
Agree. Was it just a coincidence that two fuses blew? I’ve fried stuff by arcing when replacing batteries. How are those fuses related? Are they slo blow or fast? 10amp fuses usually don’t blow easily. 🤷♂️
Ray had all the same alarms put my jeep in limp mode was caused by rust jammed between wheel speed sensor and rim cleaned wheel rim trouble went away , just love Chrysler products
Just saw this pop up in a random moment of waking up in the middle of the night! Watched the intro, liked it, and now commented. I'll be back later to watch the newest episode of the Tose van!
Low current multi pin connectors have a failure mode called fretting corrosion, due to micro movement between the male and female pins due to temperature and vibration over many years of operation. Dis-assembly can 'fix' the problem, but it may return someday since all these type connectors have this failure mode. Replacing the module will start the clock over. Electrical engineer here, always a good idea to break then mate all low current connectors.
Hey Ray! Love your work and videos!! One point, if you're going to disassembly electronics at any level, start with a clean work surface. This simply makes it easier to spot bits of old plastic falling out!
I had a fuse that would work until it got cold outside then it wouldn’t work. Same with the relays they work until it got cold. I did an entire swap with new fusses and relays one by one checking them off to make sure I didn’t miss any.
While on a diag page (or any page really) just hold down the Control key, the click the F key…it will open a find box. Then just type in example: M28 and all M28’s will be highlighted. It make finding small rest REALLY easy.
The flow of current through a conductor causes the metal to flow. It isn't identifiable with the naked eye. It causes the metal to become brittle. This is why old solid core wires in circuits tend to break. It could just be the fuse was old and brittle and cracked due to vibration. You may not be able to see the crack, but the circuit is broken.
Those little white cubes that look like sugar cubes, are power resistors. If they are brown or yellowish that one is blown. Replace board or complete unit. Root cause blown resistor.....one or more of the White cubes.
The external fuel pump relay is a recall repair made by Chrysler across most of their models/brands. They were too cheap to replace the TIPM so they did the external relay instead. I had one on my Jeep and my daughter had one on her Jeep.
Since those adjacent fuses were open and the elements weren't blown, I would suggest that the fuses were damaged by the heat generated by high resistance on the common buss bar in the fusebox therefore TPIM replacement is a good call
Quote from Cool Hand Luke one of my Favorite Paul Neumann movies. " What we have here is a failure to communicate . " I had a 2002 Chevy Trail Blazer with a similar problem. Sometimes fuses just die at the worst possible time. Certainly if you can find a rebuilt TIPM replace it. Did this vehicle take on water on in the recent storms? You rock, keep up the good work.
Yes I remember about that van, also my previous car had somehow the same problem blowing fuses, from work to home trip blow out 5 fuses at the same spot and the engine shut of , my mechanic that find a shortcut in the harness cut of that wire made a new line and everything went well, drove like that for 4 years,.
I work for a small local government. We have a 2013 Caravan that's fuse box failed. We found out because the cooling fans weren't coming on like they should and the car would start to run hot. Took it into the maintenance yard, and after a few days of diagnosis, they figured it out. Ordered a remanufactured one because a new one from Dodge was not in the budget. It came in quickly and they installed it. I went to pick it up and while pulling out, I hit the turn signal. It started hyper flashing. So I turned around and had them put a new bulb in. That didn't fix it. Come to find out the reman was also bad, but only caused the front turn signal bulbs to not function. They sent the new one back and got another. So far it seems to be working, but only time will tell.
The Alldata is a very handy tool because of the included user interface with subscribers adding to the contained data. It can save you tons of time chasing problems like the one this video is about. Probably shows that the suspected component replace was the required fix for 80 percent of that type of vehicle. But, it doesn't help with issues on vehicles that haven't had that issue .
I have the same make, model, engine, and year Chrysler van with 149000 miles. For about the last three years and about once a year, I have the same problem. Turn key, no start, some clicking under the hood. I then turn the key off, then back to the accessory position, run the shift lever all the way down and back up to “Park”. Turn the key off then back to start and it starts. Works every time and is good for about another year. I figured it probably had something to do with the range sensor (neutral safety switch to us old guys) which is located in the transmission. Don’t know why they put it inside but as long as my “fix” works I won’t be going there.
No mater how carful you are, maybe look at wiring damage knowing the extent of the work carried out (full engine out and back in) small chance a cable got pinched or squashed during all the work and intermittently shorting out? Still a pain of a fault to find, you almost want the fuse to blow again straight away so you can trace for the the short. I do like you’re methodical approach to electrical issues though, keep it up Ray, I'm an avid viewer and always looking for your next upload..😁
The infamous Chrysler vans that keep on giving (problems), owned one and nothing but problems, especially the relay for the fans that gives out so your motor overheats.
May I suggest looking for a TIPM from a junkyard that hasn't recently been flooded out by a couple of hurricanes? I know of a couple junkyards that part out their cars up here in (further north than you'd normally look) that might have parted out several 2011 T&C people movers. Might be worth looking far beyond Florida.
Nooooooo crank no start ford escape culprit 50 amp main fuse that provided power to body control module.Later i was told they were known for this issue. Keep up the great videos.
21:50 , beware of generic no name fuse brands. I personally tested many of them and they don't have the same ohm resistance as OEM brand names . For example, I tested the common 10 amp fuse and it didn't pop until it hit about 17 amps. This low resistance could easily destroy the wires in the circuit.
You have very work skills fixing electrical problems tuff and very time consuming this also one of the things I had to do when I was a telephone technician then as a medical technician,10 out of 10
I would replace those other fuses that the covers came off of as well. Maybe a short in one of those caused the cascading effect of blowing the other smaller fuses?
Fuses are like other components in that they sometimes wear out and fail even if never stressed beyond their Amperage spec. This kind of failure often presents as a nearly invisible crack in the fuse element, rather than an obvious black arc damage. The mechanism of failure is metal fatigue. When operated near but not above their rating, the element heats up and swells slightly, flexing. When the load is repeatedly cycled on and off, this flexing of the element fatigues the metal, eventually resulting in a crack. If this is the case, replacing the fuse may be the proper repair. Just use quality fuses to get long life.
I've done it too Ray. On a lot of my videos I just take for granted that everyone watching is a sub, and that they've watched all my videos. Lol... It's all good.
Big thumbs up to Dorman for fixing a problem that Chrysler didn't.
Like the oil filter/cooler housing too. Chrysler loves that crappy plastic.
Chryslers job is to sell people new cars…not fix problems and repair vehicles.
As long as the majority make it passed the warranty period. They really don't care if the parts are junk.
@@deplorablelibertarian
Chrysler is obligated by laws and regulations to sell functional cars.
Chrysler is obligated (or incentivized) by economic law and brand preservation to assure product functionality as long as possible.
Of course Stellantis is now bankrupt partly because of selling garbage cars and the Chrysler product line is being ended.
This is one or both of those karmic laws doing its job and exterminating them from the market for violating these obligations to government and/or market.
Never thought I'd see this sentence
You are now married to this van with no possibility of divorce
LoL--you might be right...
There's always a case of murder by crushing
Oh, they're divorced. This is the alimony.
Ray's already married to wife unit twice.
@@catslivesmatter1268Blunt force recycling..lol
After having 2TIPM fail in my daughters Wrangler and a variety of random faults caused by corrosion on the connectors in the TIPM assembly under the fuse box I can honestly say the engineer who designed these should be put first against the wall. They are a repairable item but I found no one particularly in Australia wanted to do the job. I ended up stripping all of them, cleaning the connectors and copper fittings to an inch of their life and got them going. Good on you identifying the problems, most mechanics cannot. By the way, the pcb inside the TIPM comes out when all fuses are removed. There are several inter connecting layers and all accessible Great respect.
Why did you let your daughter buy a Jeep? 😂😂😂😂 ( Like any kid listens to their parents)
Hey James! We have three Jeeps and two Dodge Journey vehicles. All have been fantastic and reliable. We had the TIPM issues due to the previous owner going off road in the mud and rivers too many times, causing the corrosion and never told us when we bought one.
You have a lot of people here in the UK who watch every one of your videos. Thanks for all the work you put into them.
Dreaming of a better life across the pond, especially after the election!
I said to my wife how easy it would have been to run a scam on the people. A crooked shop would have replaced the 50 cent fuses, then said that they had to replace the computer and charged them $1500. Nice to see an honest mechanic! Great job Ray!
Remember, If you have concerns you can refuse repairs and get a second opinion.
@@Oxmix66 Watch "Just Rolled In" and see the kinds of junk death traps that right now are on the road- and the customer refused repairs-and of course there ARE shops that will do just what you posted
A former co-worker, who had excellent diagnostic skills, had to help a family member with a Dodge with occasional shut-off while running problems. Let it sit, and drive away. Dealer said new PCM, over $1k. Fortunately, they didn’t have it repaired. He found that the ASD relay was hot, swapped it with another relay, no more problems.
10:10 that was your Lead probe falling into the engine ray...
I admire Ray’s diagnostic skills. One must exercise patience and perseverance and must be disciplined. Ray certainly exemplifies those virtues.
🫡
Ray
You have done enough if you cover the Labor ill cover the part
No scam
Bill Cook
I just fixed my Grand Caravan by installing a salvage TIPM. I was getting the P0480 fan code despite the fans working and I had a dealer diagnose it as a failed TIPM. Thing was, I had it rebuilt by an eBay firm. Lesson learned - they didn’t do a complete job.
I found the same part number and the build date was two weeks later than mine from a salvage yard. Plugged it in, no programming, and did a hard reset. My van has no codes any longer. Fuel pump relay works, as does the fan.
Best running 200k 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan out there, probably. Despite how thrashed it was by the previous owner. 😎
most rebuilt modules are junk. ever vendor I have delt with that "rebuilds" modules are totally hit or miss. mostly miss from my experience.
Thank you for moving the container of fuses before you tried starting the car
Yoh, that was stressing me out! :D
I was thinking the same thing
I was even thinking before he started it, that he would hit it with his hand reaching for something
I cringed when the open box of fuses was placed atop the engine bay. It would not have taken much to suddenly have tiny fuses scattered all over.
Also for removing the ratchet from between the battery posts 😅
Got a non flood car used TIPM from Idaho for a 2014 Caravan. I dismantled the old TIPM and all the large pins were half way corroded through. Removed the circuit board and cleaned all the green corrosion I could find. Put it back together and it ran for a couple of weeks. The replacement TIPM from Idaho fixed it and it has been good for over a year. Here in Canada we get a lot more internal corrosion on those units due to winter road salt. Also did the metal oil filter housing conversion. They are a ticking time bomb once the get to a certain age.
I don't know if it's been mentioned but there was a recall on these TIPM units for exactly the same reason. Both the fuel pump and start up procedure circuit are known to fail.
@@ghajduk9512 tippim off a cliff🤭
pull out the fuse that blows and replace with your multimeter (in AMP range) (plus an actual fuse!)
Then you see if the current is suspiciously high.
Always a good plan to measure the current.
Get an oscilliscope with an amp clamp add on, you can easily determine if the pcm is drawing the amount of amps that it should that way and after some time can basically confirm that the current draw doesnt rise. That wouldve narrowed it down to the TIPM with more confirmation. I think ray is an excellent mechanic, i love watching him, but I really think he should get an oscilloscope. Its a crucial diagnostic tool to have for electronic diag. Im surprised he still doesnt use one.
Not a good idea. Your meter has a 10amp quick blow fuse that is about 30 bucks where im at and will pop before the regular fuse ever will. It already popped a 10a fuse so your meter fuse has no chance.
@@SebBrosig Light bulb 💡
Since I started watching your videos I concluded that you are a rare specie
No good deed goes unpunished Ray.
I want a Ray mechanic, where I live. It’s so hard to find a comprehensive mechanic. You are amazing!
There are a lot of good shops out there. Go find a tool truck, Snap On, Mac Tools, Matco Tools and ask the tool dealer who is the best shop in your area. They know who's good and bad.
@ I live in Canada, these names are not associated to garages. Thank you!
I've owned many Chrysler vehicles over the years, and I've learned how to have a good relationship with them. They are very innovative, enjoyable vehicles- as long as you buy a new one every two years. If you keep one more than 30,000 miles, you will think you have been cursed. But those constant problems are just part of the joy of Chrysler ownership.
I’ve owned two Chrysler vans. First van spent 72 days in five months ownership in the shop. Chrysler bought it back. Second van I owned five years and over 150,000 miles. One shop visit for a door hinge covered by warranty on the second van. I’m On my second Ram 3500 dually. Pulled a 41 ft 15,000 pound ( 3400 pond hitch “tongue”weight) fifth wheel RV with my first RAM. Five years of ownership with no problems. Got more than I paid for it when I traded it in on a newer nicer model RAM 3500 dually. Just my experience with the mfg.. Not everyone experience is the same. 😊
I guess I got lucky with mine, I have a 04 Ram 1500 3.7 magnum with 157,000 miles on it and it runs like a new one, wouldn't trade it or sell it for 2 new ones.
My 07 Nitro is going strong. Regular maintenance and not driving like I’m in the NHRA 236k on it. Just changed the original
O2 sensors. All cars break down at some point.
I'm not sure I would discount the possibility of a pinched/abraided wire short when an engine has been out and back in, but I agree the totally integrated power module should be replaced with a known-good unit - or sent out to a rebuild service like Circuit Board Medics.
yea this also. But that fuel pump thing is a sign something is bad, should have been replaced then
Send to south main auto NY Erik O. He is very very good at running down electrical isues.
@@brucecarrell4919 issues ...tissues. Yep😊
Chrysler gives tow truck companies a LOT of business 😏🤣
😂😂😂😂
I think Stellantis as a whole gives tow truck companies a lot of business 😂
My Fords kept them busy. My Chevy Equinox was never towed, and, to my surprise, my Pacifica has been flawless!
@@MazichMusic I have a ford- just had its first check engine light last week at 31000 miles and 2 yrs old. I’m worried I might be a tow truck company’s next customer!
@@benjigans1419 I'm a Ford dealer tech. They keep me busy. Them and Volvo.
I miss my Uncle but I dont miss his Town/Country.
Gave him many many rides to and from his mechanic in my Toyota.
I called it quality time. 😆
😂
@@wacowildcat stuck and country 🤭
Check with United Radio in New York, they rebuild clusters, computers and a bunch of stuff. South Main Auto uses them and is quite happy with their work.
You're so glad we are here you said it twice.
Ray, I noticed that when doing the exchange relays test, you put in one of the 5/6 'backwards'. Initially the OMRON script on the relays were pointing the same way.
Ray you missed earlier problem in your diagnosis tree. the ECM TCM fuse had corrosion on it, and the main fuse's for the ECM were popped that corrosion would have caused excessive draw causing the fuses to pop. Otherwise another excellent diagnosis video
Hopefully Eric (IDoCars) sees this video and donates a replacement TIPM. He probably has a spare one in the bottom of his box of used water pumps. 😀
"Yeah, this TIPM...this used TIPM looks really great. This is a perfect replacement TIPM...it could definitely be reused." *proceeds to chuck TIPM into giant cardboard box*
Yesterday I fixed a no start condition on my ATV just by removing the fuse and reinstalling it. Was pretty proud of myself. Thanks Ray.
I worked troubleshooting semiconductor electronics for 14 yrs but the speed you fix these cars is amazing. You totally rock my man!!!
Ray has good critical thinking skills. I always laugh at people who think that the only reason a person becomes an auto mechanic is because he can't do anything else. I say it's a Calling and you don't want to do anything else. That was my case. That is who Ray is.
Sometimes just taking connections apart and reconnecting them fixes all, probably by moving the dirt and corrosion aside.
Glad to see you have already learned you can only determine visually how violently a fuse has blown and have to electrically check continuity to determine if the fuse is good or bad. It has been my experience that if the fuse looks good but electrically is bad, the fuse most likely burned out like a lamp due to heat/age/vibration due to a defective/resistive bond between a tab/pin and the fusible element connecting the tabs/pins. Since the window fuse blew after arrival to the shop and is 10A just like the fuse that killed the engine, instead of replacing the TIPM, it would have been better to replace all the 10A fuses in the TIPM that physically appear to have come from the same lot/manufacturer.
One thing that’s so much fun for me watching this is none of it makes sense to me. But I love that it does to you.
With the tipm being a known issue with Chrysler in combination with the fuel pump relay, I think we're all on the same page with your "tryagnostic" Ray.
That added fuel pump relay is the dead giveaway for more issues.
30:33 “it’s not a Monday” oh crap did we have to turn back calendar too 😎
The Rainman sluth is better than the average mechanic!!
Honestly, the only thing you can say you diagnosed 100% is that it had two bad fuses. Kind of jumping the gun by recommending a part replacement without a confirmed kill. You know sometimes fuses just go bad due to age etc. Maybe like sitting for months with a bad engine in your parking lot in FL ? Don't let the previous issue with the isolated relay taint your objective diagnosis ,is what I'm saying. Excellent video!
Hope that lady is doing good , and thank you for helping the family out in need. Another reason I have been kinda watching the Caravan saga, is Mom has a 2013 with all the bells and whistles on it to. She is 88 and refractured a old fracture on her right foot, I was taking her to the ER, and went to move the seat, and it wouldn't move, ever try to drive one of these that the seat is set for a short person and I am 6 ft!!, Well went looking at the fuse box, you have to have better eyes than this old man, and in a hurry, just happens that the place she has it serviced since she bought it was on the way, they found a fuse blown, something else I notice raising the hood was the sound of a mouse house in the hood. She has a farm and almost impossible to kill every mouse on 300 acres, but the fuse fixed the seat, BUT one window wont work with passenger side controls, and for some reason one remote we use wont let the tailgate down now, thinking battery on our remote but.. Now I see this TIPM thing and another video somewhere, I HOPE that isn't the TIPM going out of it or WORSE a mouse buffet, my uncle worked at Chrysler and retiree and got her a really good deal through him when she bought it, I had my fill of Chrysler crap on a Reliant K,, They had the Plymouth version that was a REALLY good car, mine wasn't!! EVERYTHING I replaced on it , once a month ya Know, had a different part number, which I knew from a Chevy dealer stint , that was a part that was screwed up from being made, from the factory!! Glad you keep it clean on here I gave her your site to watch hope she subs for ya, and to see what is under the fuse box, that I HOPE isn't being used a mouse hotel!! and what to expect in the future, she has I think 59,000 on it now.
The TIPM should have been replaced when the fuel pump relay portion failed, Now you have more work to put it back to factory when you replace it, Junkyard unit can be another possible repair if you can get a good one with them being on a budget
I had these issues with my 13 GC starting with the fuel pump then occasional problems with crank, both symptoms occurring when battery voltage dropped below ~12.2 volts. Prices for rebuilt TIPMs were $200 at the time for repairing mine or $400 to buy it outright. Junkyard wanted $50. I ended up buying all of the relays to repair 3 modules for about $30 with shipping and fixed everything.
The TIPM is relatively easy to disassemble. The board you were having an issue with is held in by several friction components. You kind of have to wiggle it apart. Replacing the relays was relatively straightforward. Just desolder, pull them out, then solder in the new ones. Most of the old relays I took apart had severe pitting on the contacts. A couple did have some moderate carbon tracking, but not too much to worry about.
I appreciate the more detailed explanation of exactly what you were doing with the fuses. Helps more people understand. Also, love the drawer full of little screw drivers, they just keep coming!
Note: before replacing any fuse check the circuit for short and load check it as well with a 5 amp test light ( if ECU or same use a small load ). The fuse blew for a reason.
Nice to see the Van that had a engine put in it free of charge for the family but also sad to see it came back on a tow truck. Typical Tipm Issues for these chrysler's 1:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
It's a chrysler...say no more!
@17:26 Red 10A fuse appears to be open, 12v on one side and no power on the other. Lets watch the rest of the video and see if I am correct... @18:29 Check again and there is power. Excellent. Better initial checks are in order...
I had a TIPM replaced in my 2018 jl wrangler. They (the dealership) said that a fuze on the z-bus bar blew, which in turn fried some curcuits in the TIPM. They had to replace it, as well as replace the bus bar. As you said, everything is so integrated that one small problem can take out everything else.
On my 11th Chrysler product in 57 years never had electrical problems. But several models trans troubles. Watching closely now i own a 4.0 2010 town and country 148000 miles been good car
Ray, great work as always. btw, here in good ol Engerland, we pretty much always 'blur' the word 'interesting'. It's actually really nice to hear an American enunciate it in full, the way we probably should too! Because you know how much we have a stick up our fundament about lazy US English (T becoming N, like 'internet' becomes 'innernet', etc)... I've noticed before that you actually take the time with these kinds of words.
we have a mix between "interesting" and "inchresting" here in California lol
You’re probably already aware but here in NEW England, we’ve taken the liberty to eliminate the letter “R” from the English language & replaced it with “H”. So, we have cahs that we pahk around the cawnah. 26 letters are too many. 25 is a nice round numbah.
@@Seawizz203 Excellent! I thought that was a Boston thing? Loving me some UK English pronunciation!
@@nickaa827 Fascinating. When I say that out loud, it's a bit UK-ish too...
@ it is. Boston and throughout eastern New England. Vermont and Connecticut don’t have much of an accent. I’m in Rhode Island.
Not sure if you know about them Ray, but Eric at South Main Auto gets some modules from a refurb/repair place, they don't necessarily have them all, but a repairable one can be turned around, the timing of it's return etc. ask Eric.👍🇺🇸😎
Great vehicles, I have a 2.8 diesel that I use to move literally everything!
Good to see you’re wearing your safety crocs!
I agree as you said TIPM are prone to go Belly up! I had a 2008 Wrangler R/H/D go belly up recently. Not long ago a 2019 Pacifica had similar problems to yours! The Starter fuse was ok and the wire to the Starter was ok but NO continuity across the Fuse! Break inside the TIPM! Fitted new one and All the problems went away!!
Occam's Razor says the simplest explanation is usually the most likely. With the window fuse also blowing on you when you started the diagnostics, it's more likely than not a wiring issue. I would imagine those two would be on completely different circuits, and completely different harnesses.
Agree. Was it just a coincidence that two fuses blew? I’ve fried stuff by arcing when replacing batteries. How are those fuses related? Are they slo blow or fast? 10amp fuses usually don’t blow easily. 🤷♂️
Ray had all the same alarms put my jeep in limp mode was caused by rust jammed between wheel speed sensor and rim cleaned wheel rim trouble went away , just love Chrysler products
"Welcome to Ray's Repair's" Great start to your video! Ray, you are a blessing!😊
Just saw this pop up in a random moment of waking up in the middle of the night! Watched the intro, liked it, and now commented. I'll be back later to watch the newest episode of the Tose van!
5 boys all under 7 Ray they need a tv donated for there bedroom lol
And 5 happy meals
Low current multi pin connectors have a failure mode called fretting corrosion, due to micro movement between the male and female pins due to temperature and vibration over many years of operation. Dis-assembly can 'fix' the problem, but it may return someday since all these type connectors have this failure mode. Replacing the module will start the clock over.
Electrical engineer here, always a good idea to break then mate all low current connectors.
The bravery of this man to put fuses on the firewall hanging over an engine compartment. True mastery of skill and art.
My butthole was clenching so hard during this...
I saw that too.
Hey Ray! Love your work and videos!! One point, if you're going to disassembly electronics at any level, start with a clean work surface. This simply makes it easier to spot bits of old plastic falling out!
Clean, static-free, and grounded.
Ray sometimes fuses get weak over time a blow, this is normal, happens alot in older vehicles. Have a good day😊
I had a fuse that would work until it got cold outside then it wouldn’t work. Same with the relays they work until it got cold. I did an entire swap with new fusses and relays one by one checking them off to make sure I didn’t miss any.
If that's happening, then the circuit is running really close to the maximum far too much.
While on a diag page (or any page really) just hold down the Control key, the click the F key…it will open a find box. Then just type in example: M28 and all M28’s will be highlighted. It make finding small rest REALLY easy.
As it is a Chrysler I think the best remedy for it is the bin, even though it'll speed up the rate in which the bin rusts :)
The flow of current through a conductor causes the metal to flow. It isn't identifiable with the naked eye. It causes the metal to become brittle. This is why old solid core wires in circuits tend to break. It could just be the fuse was old and brittle and cracked due to vibration. You may not be able to see the crack, but the circuit is broken.
I really like the 3.6 videos due to having one myself. I'm currently dealing with a possible transmission pump failure. Then to go Dorman on the rest.
Those little white cubes that look like sugar cubes, are power resistors. If they are brown or yellowish that one is blown. Replace board or complete unit. Root cause blown resistor.....one or more of the White cubes.
The external fuel pump relay is a recall repair made by Chrysler across most of their models/brands. They were too cheap to replace the TIPM so they did the external relay instead. I had one on my Jeep and my daughter had one on her Jeep.
AWSOME DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE SHOOTING AND REPAIR .Now for the test drive ,and bring along a couple of replacement fuses Just in case.
Since those adjacent fuses were open and
the elements weren't blown,
I would suggest that the fuses were damaged by the heat generated by high resistance on the common buss bar in the fusebox therefore TPIM replacement is a good call
I'm going to have to start painting grass I never thought of that 👍
You're not from Vegas!😅
Quote from Cool Hand Luke one of my Favorite Paul Neumann movies.
" What we have here is a failure to communicate . "
I had a 2002 Chevy Trail Blazer with a similar problem.
Sometimes fuses just die at the worst possible time.
Certainly if you can find a rebuilt TIPM replace it.
Did this vehicle take on water on in the recent storms?
You rock, keep up the good work.
The 2011 Durango i had had the same pump relay issue too and was bypassed just like that. It was a big recall
Yes I remember about that van, also my previous car had somehow the same problem blowing fuses, from work to home trip blow out 5 fuses at the same spot and the engine shut of , my mechanic that find a shortcut in the harness cut of that wire made a new line and everything went well, drove like that for 4 years,.
It's a good thing those Chrysler products are good and reliable
hehehe......
Sarcasm--i am sure...
I work for a small local government. We have a 2013 Caravan that's fuse box failed. We found out because the cooling fans weren't coming on like they should and the car would start to run hot. Took it into the maintenance yard, and after a few days of diagnosis, they figured it out. Ordered a remanufactured one because a new one from Dodge was not in the budget. It came in quickly and they installed it. I went to pick it up and while pulling out, I hit the turn signal. It started hyper flashing. So I turned around and had them put a new bulb in. That didn't fix it. Come to find out the reman was also bad, but only caused the front turn signal bulbs to not function. They sent the new one back and got another. So far it seems to be working, but only time will tell.
50:20 And that right there, ladies and gents, is why you can never find the fuse puller that came with the car.
Mine is missing
You are a electronic genius ray toughest part of being a tech
@7:31 in I'm calling the radio interface module or auto shut down relay
The Alldata is a very handy tool because of the included user interface with subscribers adding to the contained data. It can save you tons of time chasing problems like the one this video is about. Probably shows that the suspected component replace was the required fix for 80 percent of that type of vehicle.
But, it doesn't help with issues on vehicles that haven't had that issue .
I have the same make, model, engine, and year Chrysler van with 149000 miles. For about the last three years and about once a year, I have the same problem. Turn key, no start, some clicking under the hood. I then turn the key off, then back to the accessory position, run the shift lever all the way down and back up to “Park”. Turn the key off then back to start and it starts. Works every time and is good for about another year. I figured it probably had something to do with the range sensor (neutral safety switch to us old guys) which is located in the transmission. Don’t know why they put it inside but as long as my “fix” works I won’t be going there.
You know more than I Ray. 😊
I've been watching you for a solid 4 years now and sitting that box of fuses on the wiper cowel was the sketchiest thing you've ever done. Lol
My old auto electrician tool kit comprised of a Blinker light and two alligator clips.
Check the current on each fuse. remove the fuse and place the DVM across the fuse socket. Set DVM to high current.
Black light on the board will show electrical mapping to each component. Sometimes u can find a heat break or corrosion that way
No mater how carful you are, maybe look at wiring damage knowing the extent of the work carried out (full engine out and back in) small chance a cable got pinched or squashed during all the work and intermittently shorting out? Still a pain of a fault to find, you almost want the fuse to blow again straight away so you can trace for the the short. I do like you’re methodical approach to electrical issues though, keep it up Ray, I'm an avid viewer and always looking for your next upload..😁
The infamous Chrysler vans that keep on giving (problems), owned one and nothing but problems, especially the relay for the fans that gives out so your motor overheats.
Ray is the best teacher!🧑🔧😂
May I suggest looking for a TIPM from a junkyard that hasn't recently been flooded out by a couple of hurricanes? I know of a couple junkyards that part out their cars up here in (further north than you'd normally look) that might have parted out several 2011 T&C people movers. Might be worth looking far beyond Florida.
I'm glad to be here as well.
Nooooooo crank no start ford escape culprit 50 amp main fuse that provided power to body control module.Later i was told they were known for this issue. Keep up the great videos.
Had the exact same problem on the same vehicle when I worked at the Chrysler dealership, ended up being the fuse box itself
Ray bought his wife a new van. She will love you for it.
21:50 , beware of generic no name fuse brands. I personally tested many of them and they don't have the same ohm resistance as OEM brand names . For example, I tested the common 10 amp fuse and it didn't pop until it hit about 17 amps. This low resistance could easily destroy the wires in the circuit.
If you do the job twice you are just better prepared for the 3rd time! 🙂
I too have found several fuses that looked visually good but tested bad!
You have very work skills fixing electrical problems tuff and very time consuming this also one of the things I had to do when I was a telephone technician then as a medical technician,10 out of 10
I would replace those other fuses that the covers came off of as well. Maybe a short in one of those caused the cascading effect of blowing the other smaller fuses?
Fuses are like other components in that they sometimes wear out and fail even if never stressed beyond their Amperage spec. This kind of failure often presents as a nearly invisible crack in the fuse element, rather than an obvious black arc damage. The mechanism of failure is metal fatigue. When operated near but not above their rating, the element heats up and swells slightly, flexing. When the load is repeatedly cycled on and off, this flexing of the element fatigues the metal, eventually resulting in a crack. If this is the case, replacing the fuse may be the proper repair. Just use quality fuses to get long life.
Good video as always ray i belive that fuse blew because the tipm is failing 49:20 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Thank You .....enjoyed the patients you display
Looking forward to the next episode!
I've done it too Ray. On a lot of my videos I just take for granted that everyone watching is a sub, and that they've watched all my videos. Lol... It's all good.