After having 2TIPM fail in my daughters Wrangler and a variety of random faults caused by corrosion on the connectors in the TIPM assembly under the fuse box I can honestly say the engineer who designed these should be put first against the wall. They are a repairable item but I found no one particularly in Australia wanted to do the job. I ended up stripping all of them, cleaning the connectors and copper fittings to an inch of their life and got them going. Good on you identifying the problems, most mechanics cannot. By the way, the pcb inside the TIPM comes out when all fuses are removed. There are several inter connecting layers and all accessible Great respect.
Hey James! We have three Jeeps and two Dodge Journey vehicles. All have been fantastic and reliable. We had the TIPM issues due to the previous owner going off road in the mud and rivers too many times, causing the corrosion and never told us when we bought one.
@@kimkeam2094LOL First you say they are fantastic and reliable, then you say you had the TIPM problem. I am 78, been doing mechanical work basically my whole life. If you care to listen, on every single Chrysler product you own, either clean or replace all of the grounds. For some reason, Chrysler has ALWAYS had problems with this single issue. Good Luck and God Bless, Kim.
Hi James, you are right. The only issues I have had are to do with corrosion, earths and connections but here in Australia there is no support from Chrysler as there is little to no training given to the service staff. So, unless you are prepared to do it yourself and learn they can be an issue. Otherwise, as I regularly maintain and keep ahead of any issues they seriously have been more reliable than my mates Nissans and Toyotas over the years.
@@deplorablelibertarian Chrysler is obligated by laws and regulations to sell functional cars. Chrysler is obligated (or incentivized) by economic law and brand preservation to assure product functionality as long as possible. Of course Stellantis is now bankrupt partly because of selling garbage cars and the Chrysler product line is being ended. This is one or both of those karmic laws doing its job and exterminating them from the market for violating these obligations to government and/or market.
I just fixed my Grand Caravan by installing a salvage TIPM. I was getting the P0480 fan code despite the fans working and I had a dealer diagnose it as a failed TIPM. Thing was, I had it rebuilt by an eBay firm. Lesson learned - they didn’t do a complete job. I found the same part number and the build date was two weeks later than mine from a salvage yard. Plugged it in, no programming, and did a hard reset. My van has no codes any longer. Fuel pump relay works, as does the fan. Best running 200k 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan out there, probably. Despite how thrashed it was by the previous owner. 😎
I said to my wife how easy it would have been to run a scam on the people. A crooked shop would have replaced the 50 cent fuses, then said that they had to replace the computer and charged them $1500. Nice to see an honest mechanic! Great job Ray!
@@Oxmix66 Watch "Just Rolled In" and see the kinds of junk death traps that right now are on the road- and the customer refused repairs-and of course there ARE shops that will do just what you posted
A former co-worker, who had excellent diagnostic skills, had to help a family member with a Dodge with occasional shut-off while running problems. Let it sit, and drive away. Dealer said new PCM, over $1k. Fortunately, they didn’t have it repaired. He found that the ASD relay was hot, swapped it with another relay, no more problems.
Got a non flood car used TIPM from Idaho for a 2014 Caravan. I dismantled the old TIPM and all the large pins were half way corroded through. Removed the circuit board and cleaned all the green corrosion I could find. Put it back together and it ran for a couple of weeks. The replacement TIPM from Idaho fixed it and it has been good for over a year. Here in Canada we get a lot more internal corrosion on those units due to winter road salt. Also did the metal oil filter housing conversion. They are a ticking time bomb once the get to a certain age.
Ray has good critical thinking skills. I always laugh at people who think that the only reason a person becomes an auto mechanic is because he can't do anything else. I say it's a Calling and you don't want to do anything else. That was my case. That is who Ray is.
I don't know if it's been mentioned but there was a recall on these TIPM units for exactly the same reason. Both the fuel pump and start up procedure circuit are known to fail.
Get an oscilliscope with an amp clamp add on, you can easily determine if the pcm is drawing the amount of amps that it should that way and after some time can basically confirm that the current draw doesnt rise. That wouldve narrowed it down to the TIPM with more confirmation. I think ray is an excellent mechanic, i love watching him, but I really think he should get an oscilloscope. Its a crucial diagnostic tool to have for electronic diag. Im surprised he still doesnt use one.
Not a good idea. Your meter has a 10amp quick blow fuse that is about 30 bucks where im at and will pop before the regular fuse ever will. It already popped a 10a fuse so your meter fuse has no chance.
There are a lot of good shops out there. Go find a tool truck, Snap On, Mac Tools, Matco Tools and ask the tool dealer who is the best shop in your area. They know who's good and bad.
I'm not sure I would discount the possibility of a pinched/abraided wire short when an engine has been out and back in, but I agree the totally integrated power module should be replaced with a known-good unit - or sent out to a rebuild service like Circuit Board Medics.
I've owned many Chrysler vehicles over the years, and I've learned how to have a good relationship with them. They are very innovative, enjoyable vehicles- as long as you buy a new one every two years. If you keep one more than 30,000 miles, you will think you have been cursed. But those constant problems are just part of the joy of Chrysler ownership.
I’ve owned two Chrysler vans. First van spent 72 days in five months ownership in the shop. Chrysler bought it back. Second van I owned five years and over 150,000 miles. One shop visit for a door hinge covered by warranty on the second van. I’m On my second Ram 3500 dually. Pulled a 41 ft 15,000 pound ( 3400 pond hitch “tongue”weight) fifth wheel RV with my first RAM. Five years of ownership with no problems. Got more than I paid for it when I traded it in on a newer nicer model RAM 3500 dually. Just my experience with the mfg.. Not everyone experience is the same. 😊
I guess I got lucky with mine, I have a 04 Ram 1500 3.7 magnum with 157,000 miles on it and it runs like a new one, wouldn't trade it or sell it for 2 new ones.
My 07 Nitro is going strong. Regular maintenance and not driving like I’m in the NHRA 236k on it. Just changed the original O2 sensors. All cars break down at some point.
Hope that lady is doing good , and thank you for helping the family out in need. Another reason I have been kinda watching the Caravan saga, is Mom has a 2013 with all the bells and whistles on it to. She is 88 and refractured a old fracture on her right foot, I was taking her to the ER, and went to move the seat, and it wouldn't move, ever try to drive one of these that the seat is set for a short person and I am 6 ft!!, Well went looking at the fuse box, you have to have better eyes than this old man, and in a hurry, just happens that the place she has it serviced since she bought it was on the way, they found a fuse blown, something else I notice raising the hood was the sound of a mouse house in the hood. She has a farm and almost impossible to kill every mouse on 300 acres, but the fuse fixed the seat, BUT one window wont work with passenger side controls, and for some reason one remote we use wont let the tailgate down now, thinking battery on our remote but.. Now I see this TIPM thing and another video somewhere, I HOPE that isn't the TIPM going out of it or WORSE a mouse buffet, my uncle worked at Chrysler and retiree and got her a really good deal through him when she bought it, I had my fill of Chrysler crap on a Reliant K,, They had the Plymouth version that was a REALLY good car, mine wasn't!! EVERYTHING I replaced on it , once a month ya Know, had a different part number, which I knew from a Chevy dealer stint , that was a part that was screwed up from being made, from the factory!! Glad you keep it clean on here I gave her your site to watch hope she subs for ya, and to see what is under the fuse box, that I HOPE isn't being used a mouse hotel!! and what to expect in the future, she has I think 59,000 on it now.
Ray you missed earlier problem in your diagnosis tree. the ECM TCM fuse had corrosion on it, and the main fuse's for the ECM were popped that corrosion would have caused excessive draw causing the fuses to pop. Otherwise another excellent diagnosis video
Check with United Radio in New York, they rebuild clusters, computers and a bunch of stuff. South Main Auto uses them and is quite happy with their work.
@@MazichMusic I have a ford- just had its first check engine light last week at 31000 miles and 2 yrs old. I’m worried I might be a tow truck company’s next customer!
I appreciate the more detailed explanation of exactly what you were doing with the fuses. Helps more people understand. Also, love the drawer full of little screw drivers, they just keep coming!
I had these issues with my 13 GC starting with the fuel pump then occasional problems with crank, both symptoms occurring when battery voltage dropped below ~12.2 volts. Prices for rebuilt TIPMs were $200 at the time for repairing mine or $400 to buy it outright. Junkyard wanted $50. I ended up buying all of the relays to repair 3 modules for about $30 with shipping and fixed everything. The TIPM is relatively easy to disassemble. The board you were having an issue with is held in by several friction components. You kind of have to wiggle it apart. Replacing the relays was relatively straightforward. Just desolder, pull them out, then solder in the new ones. Most of the old relays I took apart had severe pitting on the contacts. A couple did have some moderate carbon tracking, but not too much to worry about.
Ray, I noticed that when doing the exchange relays test, you put in one of the 5/6 'backwards'. Initially the OMRON script on the relays were pointing the same way.
Nice to see the Van that had a engine put in it free of charge for the family but also sad to see it came back on a tow truck. Typical Tipm Issues for these chrysler's 1:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
With the tipm being a known issue with Chrysler in combination with the fuel pump relay, I think we're all on the same page with your "tryagnostic" Ray.
@17:26 Red 10A fuse appears to be open, 12v on one side and no power on the other. Lets watch the rest of the video and see if I am correct... @18:29 Check again and there is power. Excellent. Better initial checks are in order...
"Yeah, this TIPM...this used TIPM looks really great. This is a perfect replacement TIPM...it could definitely be reused." *proceeds to chuck TIPM into giant cardboard box*
Hey Ray! Love your work and videos!! One point, if you're going to disassembly electronics at any level, start with a clean work surface. This simply makes it easier to spot bits of old plastic falling out!
I agree as you said TIPM are prone to go Belly up! I had a 2008 Wrangler R/H/D go belly up recently. Not long ago a 2019 Pacifica had similar problems to yours! The Starter fuse was ok and the wire to the Starter was ok but NO continuity across the Fuse! Break inside the TIPM! Fitted new one and All the problems went away!!
On my 11th Chrysler product in 57 years never had electrical problems. But several models trans troubles. Watching closely now i own a 4.0 2010 town and country 148000 miles been good car
Ray, great work as always. btw, here in good ol Engerland, we pretty much always 'blur' the word 'interesting'. It's actually really nice to hear an American enunciate it in full, the way we probably should too! Because you know how much we have a stick up our fundament about lazy US English (T becoming N, like 'internet' becomes 'innernet', etc)... I've noticed before that you actually take the time with these kinds of words.
You’re probably already aware but here in NEW England, we’ve taken the liberty to eliminate the letter “R” from the English language & replaced it with “H”. So, we have cahs that we pahk around the cawnah. 26 letters are too many. 25 is a nice round numbah.
Just saw this pop up in a random moment of waking up in the middle of the night! Watched the intro, liked it, and now commented. I'll be back later to watch the newest episode of the Tose van!
I had a TIPM replaced in my 2018 jl wrangler. They (the dealership) said that a fuze on the z-bus bar blew, which in turn fried some curcuits in the TIPM. They had to replace it, as well as replace the bus bar. As you said, everything is so integrated that one small problem can take out everything else.
The TIPM should have been replaced when the fuel pump relay portion failed, Now you have more work to put it back to factory when you replace it, Junkyard unit can be another possible repair if you can get a good one with them being on a budget
Yes I remember about that van, also my previous car had somehow the same problem blowing fuses, from work to home trip blow out 5 fuses at the same spot and the engine shut of , my mechanic that find a shortcut in the harness cut of that wire made a new line and everything went well, drove like that for 4 years,.
Not sure if you know about them Ray, but Eric at South Main Auto gets some modules from a refurb/repair place, they don't necessarily have them all, but a repairable one can be turned around, the timing of it's return etc. ask Eric.👍🇺🇸😎
21:50 , beware of generic no name fuse brands. I personally tested many of them and they don't have the same ohm resistance as OEM brand names . For example, I tested the common 10 amp fuse and it didn't pop until it hit about 17 amps. This low resistance could easily destroy the wires in the circuit.
LOL!!! @ Repeat Offender 🤣🤣🤣🤣 6:30 ...I fully expected the scantool to display "Oh, gods - THIS thing again...!" 😁 TIPM: Totally Irritating Problematic Module. Yeah, time for a refurb/replace. At least it's not random bad grounds like Eric O. gets...
Glad to see you have already learned you can only determine visually how violently a fuse has blown and have to electrically check continuity to determine if the fuse is good or bad. It has been my experience that if the fuse looks good but electrically is bad, the fuse most likely burned out like a lamp due to heat/age/vibration due to a defective/resistive bond between a tab/pin and the fusible element connecting the tabs/pins. Since the window fuse blew after arrival to the shop and is 10A just like the fuse that killed the engine, instead of replacing the TIPM, it would have been better to replace all the 10A fuses in the TIPM that physically appear to have come from the same lot/manufacturer.
Occam's Razor says the simplest explanation is usually the most likely. With the window fuse also blowing on you when you started the diagnostics, it's more likely than not a wiring issue. I would imagine those two would be on completely different circuits, and completely different harnesses.
Agree. Was it just a coincidence that two fuses blew? I’ve fried stuff by arcing when replacing batteries. How are those fuses related? Are they slo blow or fast? 10amp fuses usually don’t blow easily. 🤷♂️
Quote from Cool Hand Luke one of my Favorite Paul Neumann movies. " What we have here is a failure to communicate . " I had a 2002 Chevy Trail Blazer with a similar problem. Sometimes fuses just die at the worst possible time. Certainly if you can find a rebuilt TIPM replace it. Did this vehicle take on water on in the recent storms? You rock, keep up the good work.
I see flashing security light which would shutdown ignition and engine functions. Reprogram keys.... might have used their spare. I have a jeep 2010 with a spare dumb key and it will drive sometimes for about 2 minutes then realize the key isn't present. 6:39 security alarm is a small red round led that flashes.
May I suggest looking for a TIPM from a junkyard that hasn't recently been flooded out by a couple of hurricanes? I know of a couple junkyards that part out their cars up here in (further north than you'd normally look) that might have parted out several 2011 T&C people movers. Might be worth looking far beyond Florida.
I had a fuse that would work until it got cold outside then it wouldn’t work. Same with the relays they work until it got cold. I did an entire swap with new fusses and relays one by one checking them off to make sure I didn’t miss any.
Ray had all the same alarms put my jeep in limp mode was caused by rust jammed between wheel speed sensor and rim cleaned wheel rim trouble went away , just love Chrysler products
Nooooooo crank no start ford escape culprit 50 amp main fuse that provided power to body control module.Later i was told they were known for this issue. Keep up the great videos.
Note: before replacing any fuse check the circuit for short and load check it as well with a 5 amp test light ( if ECU or same use a small load ). The fuse blew for a reason.
Honestly, the only thing you can say you diagnosed 100% is that it had two bad fuses. Kind of jumping the gun by recommending a part replacement without a confirmed kill. You know sometimes fuses just go bad due to age etc. Maybe like sitting for months with a bad engine in your parking lot in FL ? Don't let the previous issue with the isolated relay taint your objective diagnosis ,is what I'm saying. Excellent video!
I have the same make, model, engine, and year Chrysler van with 149000 miles. For about the last three years and about once a year, I have the same problem. Turn key, no start, some clicking under the hood. I then turn the key off, then back to the accessory position, run the shift lever all the way down and back up to “Park”. Turn the key off then back to start and it starts. Works every time and is good for about another year. I figured it probably had something to do with the range sensor (neutral safety switch to us old guys) which is located in the transmission. Don’t know why they put it inside but as long as my “fix” works I won’t be going there.
I had to get a fuse block for my Mini cooper S clubmen I got lucky that part was on six months back order heard it was a known problem with Mini Cooper. The whole fuse block on the passenger side.
You have very work skills fixing electrical problems tuff and very time consuming this also one of the things I had to do when I was a telephone technician then as a medical technician,10 out of 10
The Alldata is a very handy tool because of the included user interface with subscribers adding to the contained data. It can save you tons of time chasing problems like the one this video is about. Probably shows that the suspected component replace was the required fix for 80 percent of that type of vehicle. But, it doesn't help with issues on vehicles that haven't had that issue .
Low current multi pin connectors have a failure mode called fretting corrosion, due to micro movement between the male and female pins due to temperature and vibration over many years of operation. Dis-assembly can 'fix' the problem, but it may return someday since all these type connectors have this failure mode. Replacing the module will start the clock over. Electrical engineer here, always a good idea to break then mate all low current connectors.
Since those adjacent fuses were open and the elements weren't blown, I would suggest that the fuses were damaged by the heat generated by high resistance on the common buss bar in the fusebox therefore TPIM replacement is a good call
The external fuel pump relay is a recall repair made by Chrysler across most of their models/brands. They were too cheap to replace the TIPM so they did the external relay instead. I had one on my Jeep and my daughter had one on her Jeep.
While on a diag page (or any page really) just hold down the Control key, the click the F key…it will open a find box. Then just type in example: M28 and all M28’s will be highlighted. It make finding small rest REALLY easy.
When testing a battery you need to check by probing the battery terminals themselves AND at the connectors on the terminals separately. This caught me slacking on a similar van and on a PT Cruiser. Van had bad terminal connectors and PT Cruiser had bad ground wire to terminal connector connection.
No mater how carful you are, maybe look at wiring damage knowing the extent of the work carried out (full engine out and back in) small chance a cable got pinched or squashed during all the work and intermittently shorting out? Still a pain of a fault to find, you almost want the fuse to blow again straight away so you can trace for the the short. I do like you’re methodical approach to electrical issues though, keep it up Ray, I'm an avid viewer and always looking for your next upload..😁
Great video Ray... Really liked the troubleshooting method. I am with you on reolacing what seems to be the reason able failure point.... Please do a sequel to finally see what was replaced and if it cured the issue
I would replace those other fuses that the covers came off of as well. Maybe a short in one of those caused the cascading effect of blowing the other smaller fuses?
If you got it working after disconnecting and reconnecting I would suspect that there are some pins that are a sloppy fit in their sockets. Check the drag in the sockets with a needle maybe?
You said there was some corrosion around the TPN module.These blade fuses with open carrier bodies are grate for testing but are bad for warm humid conditions. The fusible link develop corrosion pits which reduces current capacity, so do not show as much frailer marks. So to find them you must carry out test a procedure as you did to find them.
LOL as soon as I saw that fuel pump relay... the TIPMs in these van suck, especially in Canada (where the darn things are built). Thankfully I am still on my original going 315,000 km, most likely because when I got my van already at the 135,000 km mark, I took the TIPM fully apart, cleaned it, greased it, and kept it dry -- I have a bypass kit ready to go but never really used it.
I've done it too Ray. On a lot of my videos I just take for granted that everyone watching is a sub, and that they've watched all my videos. Lol... It's all good.
I just watched a video on Facebook from Parker's Mobile Mechanics on a 2019 Dodge Caravan with the 3.6. The guy installed three engines on it and one day it just wouldn't start just like this one and all the gear select range was all lit up like it wasn't in gear. Parker diagnosed it and it looked like it was the trans control module. Also, my cousin had a Dodge Journey with this same issue and it turned out to be a bad ground on the firewall near the battery on the strut tower. It will be good to see what the issue is with this one.
I had a very similar issue with a UK Mini Cooper S. After working fine it suddenly went slightly crraxy, loads of lights, window wipers running when they shouldnt, no rev counter or speedo. Was getting low voltage DTCs, ABS fault lights etc. Turned out that was also a faulty TIPM/fuse box module.
There are multiple layers of pcbs in that TIPM I have repaired several of them over the last few years and they are tough to take a part. unless you want the chalange just replace it!
You have a lot of people here in the UK who watch every one of your videos. Thanks for all the work you put into them.
Dreaming of a better life across the pond, especially after the election!
After having 2TIPM fail in my daughters Wrangler and a variety of random faults caused by corrosion on the connectors in the TIPM assembly under the fuse box I can honestly say the engineer who designed these should be put first against the wall. They are a repairable item but I found no one particularly in Australia wanted to do the job. I ended up stripping all of them, cleaning the connectors and copper fittings to an inch of their life and got them going. Good on you identifying the problems, most mechanics cannot. By the way, the pcb inside the TIPM comes out when all fuses are removed. There are several inter connecting layers and all accessible Great respect.
Why did you let your daughter buy a Jeep? 😂😂😂😂 ( Like any kid listens to their parents)
Hey James! We have three Jeeps and two Dodge Journey vehicles. All have been fantastic and reliable. We had the TIPM issues due to the previous owner going off road in the mud and rivers too many times, causing the corrosion and never told us when we bought one.
@@kimkeam2094LOL First you say they are fantastic and reliable, then you say you had the TIPM problem. I am 78, been doing mechanical work basically my whole life. If you care to listen, on every single Chrysler product you own, either clean or replace all of the grounds. For some reason, Chrysler has ALWAYS had problems with this single issue. Good Luck and God Bless, Kim.
Hi James, you are right. The only issues I have had are to do with corrosion, earths and connections but here in Australia there is no support from Chrysler as there is little to no training given to the service staff. So, unless you are prepared to do it yourself and learn they can be an issue. Otherwise, as I regularly maintain and keep ahead of any issues they seriously have been more reliable than my mates Nissans and Toyotas over the years.
Big thumbs up to Dorman for fixing a problem that Chrysler didn't.
Like the oil filter/cooler housing too. Chrysler loves that crappy plastic.
Chryslers job is to sell people new cars…not fix problems and repair vehicles.
As long as the majority make it passed the warranty period. They really don't care if the parts are junk.
@@deplorablelibertarian
Chrysler is obligated by laws and regulations to sell functional cars.
Chrysler is obligated (or incentivized) by economic law and brand preservation to assure product functionality as long as possible.
Of course Stellantis is now bankrupt partly because of selling garbage cars and the Chrysler product line is being ended.
This is one or both of those karmic laws doing its job and exterminating them from the market for violating these obligations to government and/or market.
Never thought I'd see this sentence
You are now married to this van with no possibility of divorce
LoL--you might be right...
There's always a case of murder by crushing
Oh, they're divorced. This is the alimony.
Ray's already married to wife unit twice.
@@catslivesmatter1268Blunt force recycling..lol
I admire Ray’s diagnostic skills. One must exercise patience and perseverance and must be disciplined. Ray certainly exemplifies those virtues.
🫡
I just fixed my Grand Caravan by installing a salvage TIPM. I was getting the P0480 fan code despite the fans working and I had a dealer diagnose it as a failed TIPM. Thing was, I had it rebuilt by an eBay firm. Lesson learned - they didn’t do a complete job.
I found the same part number and the build date was two weeks later than mine from a salvage yard. Plugged it in, no programming, and did a hard reset. My van has no codes any longer. Fuel pump relay works, as does the fan.
Best running 200k 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan out there, probably. Despite how thrashed it was by the previous owner. 😎
most rebuilt modules are junk. ever vendor I have delt with that "rebuilds" modules are totally hit or miss. mostly miss from my experience.
I said to my wife how easy it would have been to run a scam on the people. A crooked shop would have replaced the 50 cent fuses, then said that they had to replace the computer and charged them $1500. Nice to see an honest mechanic! Great job Ray!
Remember, If you have concerns you can refuse repairs and get a second opinion.
@@Oxmix66 Watch "Just Rolled In" and see the kinds of junk death traps that right now are on the road- and the customer refused repairs-and of course there ARE shops that will do just what you posted
A former co-worker, who had excellent diagnostic skills, had to help a family member with a Dodge with occasional shut-off while running problems. Let it sit, and drive away. Dealer said new PCM, over $1k. Fortunately, they didn’t have it repaired. He found that the ASD relay was hot, swapped it with another relay, no more problems.
Got a non flood car used TIPM from Idaho for a 2014 Caravan. I dismantled the old TIPM and all the large pins were half way corroded through. Removed the circuit board and cleaned all the green corrosion I could find. Put it back together and it ran for a couple of weeks. The replacement TIPM from Idaho fixed it and it has been good for over a year. Here in Canada we get a lot more internal corrosion on those units due to winter road salt. Also did the metal oil filter housing conversion. They are a ticking time bomb once the get to a certain age.
Thank you for moving the container of fuses before you tried starting the car
Yoh, that was stressing me out! :D
I was thinking the same thing
I was even thinking before he started it, that he would hit it with his hand reaching for something
I cringed when the open box of fuses was placed atop the engine bay. It would not have taken much to suddenly have tiny fuses scattered all over.
Also for removing the ratchet from between the battery posts 😅
10:10 that was your Lead probe falling into the engine ray...
I worked troubleshooting semiconductor electronics for 14 yrs but the speed you fix these cars is amazing. You totally rock my man!!!
Ray has good critical thinking skills. I always laugh at people who think that the only reason a person becomes an auto mechanic is because he can't do anything else. I say it's a Calling and you don't want to do anything else. That was my case. That is who Ray is.
I don't know if it's been mentioned but there was a recall on these TIPM units for exactly the same reason. Both the fuel pump and start up procedure circuit are known to fail.
@@ghajduk9512 tippim off a cliff🤭
pull out the fuse that blows and replace with your multimeter (in AMP range) (plus an actual fuse!)
Then you see if the current is suspiciously high.
Always a good plan to measure the current.
Get an oscilliscope with an amp clamp add on, you can easily determine if the pcm is drawing the amount of amps that it should that way and after some time can basically confirm that the current draw doesnt rise. That wouldve narrowed it down to the TIPM with more confirmation. I think ray is an excellent mechanic, i love watching him, but I really think he should get an oscilloscope. Its a crucial diagnostic tool to have for electronic diag. Im surprised he still doesnt use one.
Not a good idea. Your meter has a 10amp quick blow fuse that is about 30 bucks where im at and will pop before the regular fuse ever will. It already popped a 10a fuse so your meter fuse has no chance.
@@SebBrosig Light bulb 💡
I want a Ray mechanic, where I live. It’s so hard to find a comprehensive mechanic. You are amazing!
There are a lot of good shops out there. Go find a tool truck, Snap On, Mac Tools, Matco Tools and ask the tool dealer who is the best shop in your area. They know who's good and bad.
@ I live in Canada, these names are not associated to garages. Thank you!
Ray
You have done enough if you cover the Labor ill cover the part
No scam
Bill Cook
I miss my Uncle but I dont miss his Town/Country.
Gave him many many rides to and from his mechanic in my Toyota.
I called it quality time. 😆
😂
@@wacowildcat stuck and country 🤭
No good deed goes unpunished Ray.
I'm not sure I would discount the possibility of a pinched/abraided wire short when an engine has been out and back in, but I agree the totally integrated power module should be replaced with a known-good unit - or sent out to a rebuild service like Circuit Board Medics.
yea this also. But that fuel pump thing is a sign something is bad, should have been replaced then
You're so glad we are here you said it twice.
Yesterday I fixed a no start condition on my ATV just by removing the fuse and reinstalling it. Was pretty proud of myself. Thanks Ray.
I've owned many Chrysler vehicles over the years, and I've learned how to have a good relationship with them. They are very innovative, enjoyable vehicles- as long as you buy a new one every two years. If you keep one more than 30,000 miles, you will think you have been cursed. But those constant problems are just part of the joy of Chrysler ownership.
I’ve owned two Chrysler vans. First van spent 72 days in five months ownership in the shop. Chrysler bought it back. Second van I owned five years and over 150,000 miles. One shop visit for a door hinge covered by warranty on the second van. I’m On my second Ram 3500 dually. Pulled a 41 ft 15,000 pound ( 3400 pond hitch “tongue”weight) fifth wheel RV with my first RAM. Five years of ownership with no problems. Got more than I paid for it when I traded it in on a newer nicer model RAM 3500 dually. Just my experience with the mfg.. Not everyone experience is the same. 😊
I guess I got lucky with mine, I have a 04 Ram 1500 3.7 magnum with 157,000 miles on it and it runs like a new one, wouldn't trade it or sell it for 2 new ones.
My 07 Nitro is going strong. Regular maintenance and not driving like I’m in the NHRA 236k on it. Just changed the original
O2 sensors. All cars break down at some point.
Hope that lady is doing good , and thank you for helping the family out in need. Another reason I have been kinda watching the Caravan saga, is Mom has a 2013 with all the bells and whistles on it to. She is 88 and refractured a old fracture on her right foot, I was taking her to the ER, and went to move the seat, and it wouldn't move, ever try to drive one of these that the seat is set for a short person and I am 6 ft!!, Well went looking at the fuse box, you have to have better eyes than this old man, and in a hurry, just happens that the place she has it serviced since she bought it was on the way, they found a fuse blown, something else I notice raising the hood was the sound of a mouse house in the hood. She has a farm and almost impossible to kill every mouse on 300 acres, but the fuse fixed the seat, BUT one window wont work with passenger side controls, and for some reason one remote we use wont let the tailgate down now, thinking battery on our remote but.. Now I see this TIPM thing and another video somewhere, I HOPE that isn't the TIPM going out of it or WORSE a mouse buffet, my uncle worked at Chrysler and retiree and got her a really good deal through him when she bought it, I had my fill of Chrysler crap on a Reliant K,, They had the Plymouth version that was a REALLY good car, mine wasn't!! EVERYTHING I replaced on it , once a month ya Know, had a different part number, which I knew from a Chevy dealer stint , that was a part that was screwed up from being made, from the factory!! Glad you keep it clean on here I gave her your site to watch hope she subs for ya, and to see what is under the fuse box, that I HOPE isn't being used a mouse hotel!! and what to expect in the future, she has I think 59,000 on it now.
Ray you missed earlier problem in your diagnosis tree. the ECM TCM fuse had corrosion on it, and the main fuse's for the ECM were popped that corrosion would have caused excessive draw causing the fuses to pop. Otherwise another excellent diagnosis video
Send to south main auto NY Erik O. He is very very good at running down electrical isues.
@@brucecarrell4919 issues ...tissues. Yep😊
One thing that’s so much fun for me watching this is none of it makes sense to me. But I love that it does to you.
Check with United Radio in New York, they rebuild clusters, computers and a bunch of stuff. South Main Auto uses them and is quite happy with their work.
Chrysler gives tow truck companies a LOT of business 😏🤣
😂😂😂😂
I think Stellantis as a whole gives tow truck companies a lot of business 😂
My Fords kept them busy. My Chevy Equinox was never towed, and, to my surprise, my Pacifica has been flawless!
@@MazichMusic I have a ford- just had its first check engine light last week at 31000 miles and 2 yrs old. I’m worried I might be a tow truck company’s next customer!
@@benjigans1419 I'm a Ford dealer tech. They keep me busy. Them and Volvo.
I appreciate the more detailed explanation of exactly what you were doing with the fuses. Helps more people understand. Also, love the drawer full of little screw drivers, they just keep coming!
I had these issues with my 13 GC starting with the fuel pump then occasional problems with crank, both symptoms occurring when battery voltage dropped below ~12.2 volts. Prices for rebuilt TIPMs were $200 at the time for repairing mine or $400 to buy it outright. Junkyard wanted $50. I ended up buying all of the relays to repair 3 modules for about $30 with shipping and fixed everything.
The TIPM is relatively easy to disassemble. The board you were having an issue with is held in by several friction components. You kind of have to wiggle it apart. Replacing the relays was relatively straightforward. Just desolder, pull them out, then solder in the new ones. Most of the old relays I took apart had severe pitting on the contacts. A couple did have some moderate carbon tracking, but not too much to worry about.
Ray, I noticed that when doing the exchange relays test, you put in one of the 5/6 'backwards'. Initially the OMRON script on the relays were pointing the same way.
Nice to see the Van that had a engine put in it free of charge for the family but also sad to see it came back on a tow truck. Typical Tipm Issues for these chrysler's 1:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
It's a chrysler...say no more!
With the tipm being a known issue with Chrysler in combination with the fuel pump relay, I think we're all on the same page with your "tryagnostic" Ray.
That added fuel pump relay is the dead giveaway for more issues.
@17:26 Red 10A fuse appears to be open, 12v on one side and no power on the other. Lets watch the rest of the video and see if I am correct... @18:29 Check again and there is power. Excellent. Better initial checks are in order...
"Welcome to Ray's Repair's" Great start to your video! Ray, you are a blessing!😊
Sometimes just taking connections apart and reconnecting them fixes all, probably by moving the dirt and corrosion aside.
Hopefully Eric (IDoCars) sees this video and donates a replacement TIPM. He probably has a spare one in the bottom of his box of used water pumps. 😀
"Yeah, this TIPM...this used TIPM looks really great. This is a perfect replacement TIPM...it could definitely be reused." *proceeds to chuck TIPM into giant cardboard box*
30:33 “it’s not a Monday” oh crap did we have to turn back calendar too 😎
Hey Ray! Love your work and videos!! One point, if you're going to disassembly electronics at any level, start with a clean work surface. This simply makes it easier to spot bits of old plastic falling out!
Clean, static-free, and grounded.
I agree as you said TIPM are prone to go Belly up! I had a 2008 Wrangler R/H/D go belly up recently. Not long ago a 2019 Pacifica had similar problems to yours! The Starter fuse was ok and the wire to the Starter was ok but NO continuity across the Fuse! Break inside the TIPM! Fitted new one and All the problems went away!!
On my 11th Chrysler product in 57 years never had electrical problems. But several models trans troubles. Watching closely now i own a 4.0 2010 town and country 148000 miles been good car
Ray, great work as always. btw, here in good ol Engerland, we pretty much always 'blur' the word 'interesting'. It's actually really nice to hear an American enunciate it in full, the way we probably should too! Because you know how much we have a stick up our fundament about lazy US English (T becoming N, like 'internet' becomes 'innernet', etc)... I've noticed before that you actually take the time with these kinds of words.
we have a mix between "interesting" and "inchresting" here in California lol
You’re probably already aware but here in NEW England, we’ve taken the liberty to eliminate the letter “R” from the English language & replaced it with “H”. So, we have cahs that we pahk around the cawnah. 26 letters are too many. 25 is a nice round numbah.
@@Seawizz203 Excellent! I thought that was a Boston thing? Loving me some UK English pronunciation!
@@nickaa827 Fascinating. When I say that out loud, it's a bit UK-ish too...
@ it is. Boston and throughout eastern New England. Vermont and Connecticut don’t have much of an accent. I’m in Rhode Island.
Great vehicles, I have a 2.8 diesel that I use to move literally everything!
Just saw this pop up in a random moment of waking up in the middle of the night! Watched the intro, liked it, and now commented. I'll be back later to watch the newest episode of the Tose van!
I had a TIPM replaced in my 2018 jl wrangler. They (the dealership) said that a fuze on the z-bus bar blew, which in turn fried some curcuits in the TIPM. They had to replace it, as well as replace the bus bar. As you said, everything is so integrated that one small problem can take out everything else.
The TIPM should have been replaced when the fuel pump relay portion failed, Now you have more work to put it back to factory when you replace it, Junkyard unit can be another possible repair if you can get a good one with them being on a budget
Yes I remember about that van, also my previous car had somehow the same problem blowing fuses, from work to home trip blow out 5 fuses at the same spot and the engine shut of , my mechanic that find a shortcut in the harness cut of that wire made a new line and everything went well, drove like that for 4 years,.
@7:31 in I'm calling the radio interface module or auto shut down relay
Not sure if you know about them Ray, but Eric at South Main Auto gets some modules from a refurb/repair place, they don't necessarily have them all, but a repairable one can be turned around, the timing of it's return etc. ask Eric.👍🇺🇸😎
The 2011 Durango i had had the same pump relay issue too and was bypassed just like that. It was a big recall
21:50 , beware of generic no name fuse brands. I personally tested many of them and they don't have the same ohm resistance as OEM brand names . For example, I tested the common 10 amp fuse and it didn't pop until it hit about 17 amps. This low resistance could easily destroy the wires in the circuit.
LOL!!! @ Repeat Offender 🤣🤣🤣🤣
6:30 ...I fully expected the scantool to display "Oh, gods - THIS thing again...!" 😁
TIPM: Totally Irritating Problematic Module. Yeah, time for a refurb/replace. At least it's not random bad grounds like Eric O. gets...
I really like the 3.6 videos due to having one myself. I'm currently dealing with a possible transmission pump failure. Then to go Dorman on the rest.
Glad to see you have already learned you can only determine visually how violently a fuse has blown and have to electrically check continuity to determine if the fuse is good or bad. It has been my experience that if the fuse looks good but electrically is bad, the fuse most likely burned out like a lamp due to heat/age/vibration due to a defective/resistive bond between a tab/pin and the fusible element connecting the tabs/pins. Since the window fuse blew after arrival to the shop and is 10A just like the fuse that killed the engine, instead of replacing the TIPM, it would have been better to replace all the 10A fuses in the TIPM that physically appear to have come from the same lot/manufacturer.
Occam's Razor says the simplest explanation is usually the most likely. With the window fuse also blowing on you when you started the diagnostics, it's more likely than not a wiring issue. I would imagine those two would be on completely different circuits, and completely different harnesses.
Agree. Was it just a coincidence that two fuses blew? I’ve fried stuff by arcing when replacing batteries. How are those fuses related? Are they slo blow or fast? 10amp fuses usually don’t blow easily. 🤷♂️
Quote from Cool Hand Luke one of my Favorite Paul Neumann movies.
" What we have here is a failure to communicate . "
I had a 2002 Chevy Trail Blazer with a similar problem.
Sometimes fuses just die at the worst possible time.
Certainly if you can find a rebuilt TIPM replace it.
Did this vehicle take on water on in the recent storms?
You rock, keep up the good work.
50:20 And that right there, ladies and gents, is why you can never find the fuse puller that came with the car.
Mine is missing
I see flashing security light which would shutdown ignition and engine functions. Reprogram keys.... might have used their spare. I have a jeep 2010 with a spare dumb key and it will drive sometimes for about 2 minutes then realize the key isn't present. 6:39
security alarm is a small red round led that flashes.
5 boys all under 7 Ray they need a tv donated for there bedroom lol
And 5 happy meals
May I suggest looking for a TIPM from a junkyard that hasn't recently been flooded out by a couple of hurricanes? I know of a couple junkyards that part out their cars up here in (further north than you'd normally look) that might have parted out several 2011 T&C people movers. Might be worth looking far beyond Florida.
Good video as always ray i belive that fuse blew because the tipm is failing 49:20 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray sometimes fuses get weak over time a blow, this is normal, happens alot in older vehicles. Have a good day😊
I had a fuse that would work until it got cold outside then it wouldn’t work. Same with the relays they work until it got cold. I did an entire swap with new fusses and relays one by one checking them off to make sure I didn’t miss any.
If that's happening, then the circuit is running really close to the maximum far too much.
Ray had all the same alarms put my jeep in limp mode was caused by rust jammed between wheel speed sensor and rim cleaned wheel rim trouble went away , just love Chrysler products
As it is a Chrysler I think the best remedy for it is the bin, even though it'll speed up the rate in which the bin rusts :)
Nooooooo crank no start ford escape culprit 50 amp main fuse that provided power to body control module.Later i was told they were known for this issue. Keep up the great videos.
I noticed that if the ecm loses power it will call for oil change.
Since I started watching your videos I concluded that you are a rare specie
Note: before replacing any fuse check the circuit for short and load check it as well with a 5 amp test light ( if ECU or same use a small load ). The fuse blew for a reason.
Honestly, the only thing you can say you diagnosed 100% is that it had two bad fuses. Kind of jumping the gun by recommending a part replacement without a confirmed kill. You know sometimes fuses just go bad due to age etc. Maybe like sitting for months with a bad engine in your parking lot in FL ? Don't let the previous issue with the isolated relay taint your objective diagnosis ,is what I'm saying. Excellent video!
Welcoming back!
I would like to go to your warming of house party!
I have the same make, model, engine, and year Chrysler van with 149000 miles. For about the last three years and about once a year, I have the same problem. Turn key, no start, some clicking under the hood. I then turn the key off, then back to the accessory position, run the shift lever all the way down and back up to “Park”. Turn the key off then back to start and it starts. Works every time and is good for about another year. I figured it probably had something to do with the range sensor (neutral safety switch to us old guys) which is located in the transmission. Don’t know why they put it inside but as long as my “fix” works I won’t be going there.
I had to get a fuse block for my Mini cooper S clubmen I got lucky that part was on six months back order heard it was a known problem with Mini Cooper. The whole fuse block on the passenger side.
You have very work skills fixing electrical problems tuff and very time consuming this also one of the things I had to do when I was a telephone technician then as a medical technician,10 out of 10
The Rainman sluth is better than the average mechanic!!
The Alldata is a very handy tool because of the included user interface with subscribers adding to the contained data. It can save you tons of time chasing problems like the one this video is about. Probably shows that the suspected component replace was the required fix for 80 percent of that type of vehicle.
But, it doesn't help with issues on vehicles that haven't had that issue .
Low current multi pin connectors have a failure mode called fretting corrosion, due to micro movement between the male and female pins due to temperature and vibration over many years of operation. Dis-assembly can 'fix' the problem, but it may return someday since all these type connectors have this failure mode. Replacing the module will start the clock over.
Electrical engineer here, always a good idea to break then mate all low current connectors.
If you do the job twice you are just better prepared for the 3rd time! 🙂
I too have found several fuses that looked visually good but tested bad!
Since those adjacent fuses were open and
the elements weren't blown,
I would suggest that the fuses were damaged by the heat generated by high resistance on the common buss bar in the fusebox therefore TPIM replacement is a good call
The external fuel pump relay is a recall repair made by Chrysler across most of their models/brands. They were too cheap to replace the TIPM so they did the external relay instead. I had one on my Jeep and my daughter had one on her Jeep.
Good to see you’re wearing your safety crocs!
While on a diag page (or any page really) just hold down the Control key, the click the F key…it will open a find box. Then just type in example: M28 and all M28’s will be highlighted. It make finding small rest REALLY easy.
When testing a battery you need to check by probing the battery terminals themselves AND at the connectors on the terminals separately. This caught me slacking on a similar van and on a PT Cruiser. Van had bad terminal connectors and PT Cruiser had bad ground wire to terminal connector connection.
No mater how carful you are, maybe look at wiring damage knowing the extent of the work carried out (full engine out and back in) small chance a cable got pinched or squashed during all the work and intermittently shorting out? Still a pain of a fault to find, you almost want the fuse to blow again straight away so you can trace for the the short. I do like you’re methodical approach to electrical issues though, keep it up Ray, I'm an avid viewer and always looking for your next upload..😁
Ray the fuses that are defective and do not look blownI would just replace. Somebody already did a fuel pump fuse mod so replacing tipm is a good idea
I agree with you Ray. I'd replace it myself. We already know it has the fuel pump issue. Better to be safe than hope it keeps working.
Great video Ray... Really liked the troubleshooting method. I am with you on reolacing what seems to be the reason able failure point.... Please do a sequel to finally see what was replaced and if it cured the issue
I would replace those other fuses that the covers came off of as well. Maybe a short in one of those caused the cascading effect of blowing the other smaller fuses?
Ray bought his wife a new van. She will love you for it.
If you got it working after disconnecting and reconnecting I would suspect that there are some pins that are a sloppy fit in their sockets. Check the drag in the sockets with a needle maybe?
at 43:18 Those 2 big black chips in the upper left, the right one looks like it has melted.
I think that's just the conformal coating (a clear coat over the whole board to seal it).
I'm going to have to start painting grass I never thought of that 👍
You're not from Vegas!😅
You said there was some corrosion around the TPN module.These blade fuses with open carrier bodies are grate for testing but are bad for warm humid conditions. The fusible link develop corrosion pits which reduces current capacity, so do not show as much frailer marks. So to find them you must carry out test a procedure as you did to find them.
LOL as soon as I saw that fuel pump relay... the TIPMs in these van suck, especially in Canada (where the darn things are built). Thankfully I am still on my original going 315,000 km, most likely because when I got my van already at the 135,000 km mark, I took the TIPM fully apart, cleaned it, greased it, and kept it dry -- I have a bypass kit ready to go but never really used it.
You are a electronic genius ray toughest part of being a tech
I'm glad to be here as well.
I've done it too Ray. On a lot of my videos I just take for granted that everyone watching is a sub, and that they've watched all my videos. Lol... It's all good.
Check the current on each fuse. remove the fuse and place the DVM across the fuse socket. Set DVM to high current.
I just watched a video on Facebook from Parker's Mobile Mechanics on a 2019 Dodge Caravan with the 3.6. The guy installed three engines on it and one day it just wouldn't start just like this one and all the gear select range was all lit up like it wasn't in gear. Parker diagnosed it and it looked like it was the trans control module. Also, my cousin had a Dodge Journey with this same issue and it turned out to be a bad ground on the firewall near the battery on the strut tower. It will be good to see what the issue is with this one.
I had a very similar issue with a UK Mini Cooper S. After working fine it suddenly went slightly crraxy, loads of lights, window wipers running when they shouldnt, no rev counter or speedo. Was getting low voltage DTCs, ABS fault lights etc. Turned out that was also a faulty TIPM/fuse box module.
There are multiple layers of pcbs in that TIPM I have repaired several of them over the last few years and they are tough to take a part. unless you want the chalange just replace it!