Calibrating Flow Rate For Your 3D Printer
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Take your prints to the next level with some amazing results by calibrating your slicer flow rate. It's a simple process and the results are well worth it!
Download Flow Rate Cube: www.printables...
The detail on the little guy that you printed is incredible!
I printed him in my own likeness.
@@pushingplastic7445 How many times did you need to change filaments? The orange laces are sharp.
@@pXnEmerica Way too many! I wish I had one of those fancy printers that can print up to 16 colors!
I love the print in place mouth parts... So articulate and realistic.
AHHH a tiny little man on a printer teaching me about printing this is amazing.
Every company needs to pin your videos to their websites as the must setup guides , thanks for this info it’s massively helpful and way easier to follow then any other I’ve found
That you! I appreciate those kind words! At this point I would be happy just to grow the channel!
Oh my! Awesome intro!!! Super creative and informative
Thanks a lot for this insight and clear instructions. These last 2 videos and then the x/y/z calibration are clearly fundamental to successful printing so it's got to be second nature to be able do these things and to do them often.
Very, very clear insturctions. Love your instructional videos man. Clearest and most complete I've seen yet. Especially using an Ender 3, which I have. Thank you so much for your time in shareing your knowledge with the rest of us!
Thank you very much. How's the Ender 3 working out for you? The Ender 3 I'm using in the videos is completely stock and is used only for the purposes of doing the videos to show new makers that these printers do work great without throwing money into them. I appreciate the kind words and thanks for watching!
Great videos, much easier to follow than most others.
Thanks! I hope it helped!
your channel is always super helpful! ive been looking for a way to calibrate flow without a kitchen scale and this is it!
I still prefer this method over the "visual" method of "what looks best". Thanks for the kind words & thanks for watching!
Another perfect to the point lesson. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Great format and way to do the video. Super Easy and to the point. I re-calibrated my E steps and now I needed to calibrate my flow. Thabk you very much. Kuddos
Thank so much for the kind words! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Tank you for your tutorial I will certainly use it 👍Greatings from Belgium 🇧🇪
Thank you for the kind words and for watching. Greetings from the US.
Useful. Thanks for posting this. I have to try it on my Ender.
hello from Italy, restarting to print whit my flying bear ghost 5, your video are very helpfully, thank you
Awesome and welcome back to printing!
I'm just discovering your channel as I try to dial in my Ender 3 V3 SE, and it's very informative. I'm seeing conflicting information though about flow rate. Some sources say to leave the flow rate alone in the slicer profile and instead use horizontal expansion to account for dimensional variance in wall thickness. What are your thoughts on that vs messing with the flow? Right now, my eSteps seem accurate (followed your video), but when I print the wall lidless cube, I'm reading an average thickness of 0.96 mm instead of 0.8 mm. Thanks again for the helpful info!
I dial in my flow rate, it goes a long way towards dimensional accuracy. If people are using Horizontal Expansion then they don't know their dimensional accuracy is off until they've already have a failed print. I run 8 different printers, each has the flow rate dialed in. When I print assembly parts on any of the printers they mate perfectly with each other regardless of what printed I used. I always calibrate my flow rate. You should dial the flow rate for every brand of and type you use.
@@pushingplastic7445 Thank you for the insight and reply.
@@TimDavis77 You got it!
NIce video. First time someone saying one needs to recompute flow rate every time you change filament type. I guess it makes sense.
I am going to watch your other videos. Are they in order as far as how one should go about tuning one's printer? TIA.
They are in an order for tuning starting with eSteps. Once you are sure that the extruder is properly calibrated, then the flow rate. With those two things set, you can be sure that your temperature tower is putting out the right results for your printer. If the eSteps and flow rate aren't set, your temperature tower could give false results by over/under extruding, without setting the flow, your results could be flawed by putting out too little/too much filament. After the temperature tower, retraction will get you to cleaner prints. With the right amount of filament coming out at the right temperature is when you want to move onto dimensional accuracy. I hope these videos help! Thanks for watching!
if you have overflow, can that cause weird rumbling noises? When the nozzle travels over printed areas? i just did this test, my walls were even 0,94mm thick. Was surprised, because my prints always looked fine. I just couldnt figuere out where these rumbling, crunchy noises came. I checke the wheels and rails and belts a dozen times. Using Z-Hop made the problem vanish, but Z-Hop, people say, is not a good idea generally.
It could, also over extrusion could cause it too. When your print head is getting ready to move from point A to point B, filament could still ooze onto the model and leave little raised areas of filament. Good retraction settings can help get ride of the rumble too.
I like how you explain things in a way tech idiots like myself can follow. Thanks
There are no tech idiots, just up and come comers in the community! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
By the way, Overture PETG Black 1.75 prints very well on Ender 3 with .06 nozzle / 245c / 80c /96FR. Of course your procedure is the same but Wall Thickness is 1.2 for this nozzle. Good stuff!
I should mention that I upgraded my basic Creality Ender 3 (Chrismas gift) using the Creality, Spider v3 all metel hot end, Creality all metel exturder and Creality duel Z Drive kit. I also installed (yellow) spings, magnetic PEI plate, and CR Touch . You don't really need these upgrades to start with but after researching for a couple of weeks I figured I was ready to nerd out.
Good point. You will have to adjust wall thickness for the different size nozzles! Thanks for bringing that up!!!
I have found this the first detailed instruction to achieve a curate flow for dimensions. Awsome
One problem for me. I don't use this slicer. I use matter control
But hey I will see what I can do. As this has been a lot of problems for me on thin wall printing
I have been printing for 5 years and never thought about what you have explained to achieve total accuracy
So thank you from the bottom of my heart for sharing this information.
Oh one thing I can say is. That I use an enders 3v2 with jyres firmware and I can adjust live on printing. Which is nice. But hey it is nice to sort out without doing so
In matter control, flow rate is set by the extrusion multiplier. So take the desired thickness / measured thickness and enter that number without multiplying by 100%. I’m glad the video helped but I’ll be even happier if we can get the Extrusion Multiplier working for you! Give it a try and let me know if it works! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 yes you are correct and I have done so.
It is just a problem in matter control that when changing to woodfillament and Pla plus is that when I save the profile is that it does not save all. Meaning profiles are not 100% saved and when you make adjustments from one print to another and save them the speeds and feeds and temps don't save acordinly. This is a bug atm but was not over a year ago.
Anyway I'm with talk with them and over the years with my imput we are resolving issues
Matter control is far better than cura in my opinion. As you can develop and change or adapt your models prior to print all in one software
But by no means any slicer is perfect
And also to say they now provide calibration tools which is awsome and as from this writing I have used and has corrected some issues
Mainly bed adhesion with so many types of filaments so the test tools are a must from them
Bravo to them.
I will put up some achievements on my channel for reference
Does the wall count affect the calculations? I've got it set to 3 as default, but am I sure if it would cause a problem
It does affect the calculation but not the result. It's the thickness that gets used. In the video I used 2 walls at 0.4mm each for a total of 0.8 total. If you are using 3 walls at 0.4mm each, then use 1.2mm in the formula instead of 0.8mm and you'll be fine. Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 sweet, thank you
Edit: funny enough, my average wound up being 1.32mm (the same as what my wall thickness was already set to)
My flow rate is 100% and using this method, it's where it should be.
How do you feel about calibrating flow using the dimensional check versus some of the other slicers using the top surface coupons as a visual check?
Good question! I prefer a dimensional check. It’s more defined. Visual seams to be based more on an opinion. Both methods work, but I prefer dimensions. It might be the mechanical designer in me!
No glasses on - thought the title said “Celebrating your flow rate”…I was like F yea dude let’s party.
If the flow rate is dialed in, then yeah....party on!
@@pushingplastic7445 - You ain’t lyin’. Thanks for humoring me. 👊🏽👽👍🏽
Question is it normal for when I print your cube the printer after laying down the brim and goes towards the center for the cube after the first layer my printer returns to the brim for another lap and then returns to the cube??? Never seen that happen before?
That would be the slicer settings, but you don't need to use a brim to print the cube.
@@pushingplastic7445 also do you know what may be causing my prints to come like the they suppose to but the z height is cut in half??? I dont play with slicer settings like a pro usually I leave them as is and I get good prints but I can't even print your cube cause it comes out half the size and looks like it got smashed..lol
Bed is leveled pretty good not PERFECT but pretty good
@@accordance73 If the scaling in your slicer is set at 100%, then I would look at calibrating the X,Y & Z axis of the print. I have a video for that on my channel called "Calibrate Your XY & Z Steps For Dimensional Accuracy of Your 3D Prints " ua-cam.com/video/1Ulcj5O4Pp8/v-deo.html
@@pushingplastic7445 yes saw that video but one problem... I can't even print a cube to normal size, are you saying no matter how shifty the size is i can still use that fail print to dial in the axis?? If so didnt even think that was possible, will watch video again to refresh the info and process! Thanks again!!!
@@accordance73 The math is based off of the results of the printed part. There is a good chance you'll have to run thru the process more than once to dial it in. What printer are you working with and did you buy it new or used?
Can this same method be applied for TPU?
Certainly! I do this for all of my filament types and brands. After I run a temperature tower first to see what temperature works best for the filament I'm using. Then I work on my flow rate. THanks for the comment & thanks for watching!
I love the mini man on the printer, so dumb but its great
Yeah, I agree. That's why I only did it once....kind of cheesey!
when I used your flow rate cube the inside back came out over extruded and the reading on that one side is always much higher than the other three. I calibrated my E - Steps and it came out perfect, what am I doing wrong.
How much is much higher? I Ran one last night on a printer I'm calibrating, my "before " measurements were 0.77, 0.77, 0.79 and 0.77. Just that one side was different than the other 3. It's not uncommon. Most times I have two sides different. Remember, you're taking an average of the 4 sides. If you want, you can take 3 measurements per side and take an average of all measurements. Also, only measure in the range of the top 10 layers or less. You don't have to go down to the bottom. One last thing, don't measure too close to the corners, it will almost always be thicker in in that area. I hope this helps! Keep me posted!!
So I ran this and after 1 round I had the following. Set to 0.8mm wall thickness, got 0.89 avg wall thickness so with rounding endend up setting the flow rate to 89.9% (0.8/0.89*100=89.9). Re-running this got me to 0.815 avg wall thickness. To finess it I then did 0.8/0.815= 0.98 and multiplied my original % flow rate (89.9) by this this to give 88.2% flow rate and re-ran. to get a final wlal thickness of 0.80mm average. Hope this helps someone who is also iterating.
So I just did exactly this and ended up with similar numbers. Now the corners of my calibration cubes have a “ridge” at the very corner of running down the cube. I think I’m under extruding a bit now causing this.
nice and helpful video
I printed a .3 single layer and it measures .37ish. Flow is 100%. Would you dial back on Initial Layer Flow to get it closer to .3 using the same calculation?
I wouldn't dial it back. The measurement could be because of the initial layer squoosh as it's know. The nozzle is just a little close to the bed, but it's close enough for bed adhesion. Sometimes this can lead to what is called an elephants foot. Consider using "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" with a value of -0.03 or -0.04 to bring your initial layer inward on each side of the cube. Assuming it's a cube?
@@pushingplastic7445 To be clear, I printed a 100mmx100mm .3mm thick single layer. Measuring its thickness, it was .37mm. The size came out to be 100x100, so all good there. Since my layer height was off, I debated on reducing the Initial Layer Flow to get to the target thickness of .3mm. Or, should I even bother with it?
@@baxrok2. Got it! My bad, I was thinking line width. I wouldn’t use the initial flow to solve, it will affect your line width and not necessarily help your height. On a typical print I wouldn’t worry about it. But if it’s something you really want to address for a single layer print, I would set my Initial Layer Height to make up for it. In a perfect world that number would be .23. But I personally wouldn't do that either. I typically print at 0.2mm layer height, but I'll use an Initial Layer Height of 0.28mm for better bed adhesion. I would check out the video on dimensional accuracy that I have posted on my channel. If you're happy with your x/y dimensions, then I would just check my Z. But honestly, 0.07mm is so small, I would probably let it go. If you were to print more than a single layer, I might be concerned that is 0.07mm per layer too tall.
@@pushingplastic7445 Excellent. Thanks!
Hi, is this calibration suitable for materials like TPU?
I use to do it this way with all materials. I've been using Bambu Studio, Orca Slicer and Creality Print lately and all have a new visual method for dialing in the flow rate. I haven't looked to see if Cura has added one or not. But when use my original Ender 3, 5 and 5 Plus, I dialed in TPU this way.
how do i recalculate if the sides don't measure .8 like whats the formula to keep calculate again
You might not need to rerun it. Are your results in an acceptable range?
great job
oh that's so funny you standing on the printer bed
Thanks so much! I'm running into an odd issue...
My X axis is averaging at 0.8mm but my Y axis is averaging 0.84mm. On my original test my Y was consistent with each other but thicker than the X. Would this be an Axis calibration issue that's causing this?
You’ll want to calibrate your x, y & z steppers for dimensionally accurate prints. I’m currently working on a video for that! Thanks for watching and I hope you’ll tune in often!
You are talking about a difference of 4 one hundreds of a millimeter. This is pretty darn good. I would be happy with it. After all, it's an ftm printer, not resin.
I suppose i should get a new caliper. my only measure down to nearest 10th, as i can only measure 0.8 +/-1 in this calibration, making it inaccurate. Nice video however, i will redo this test after i get a new caliper :) 3 of the walls was measured to 0.8mm, last one 0.9. Sides 19.8mm and 19.9
You'll be fine with a set of calipers that measure down to the 10th. Give it a shot with the calipers you have! Thanks for watching!
What is the formula for .12mm layers? I love your K. I. S. S. teaching. Thank You.
Awesome!
I thank you for the kind words! And the little guy on the printer thanks you for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 I could never have got my printer working as well as it does without your help, thank you very much
@@adrianharrison5208 Thank you for those kind words!! It's comments like yours that make want to keep doing this!
I just found out my calipers only measures to the nearest tenth. What the hell.
Same, I had to go get some fancy ones
How about a video on updating the firmware. Aimed at those of us that are intimidated by sortware..
A rough visual example of 3 walls.
Original flow
(__)(__)(__) = 1.5mm ~
After you calibrated.
= 1.2mm~
The touching points get smaller.
And less optimal for printing 😮
It's a calibration method, using 2 walls by the way. More walls make a stronger print but hardly required to dial in a printer. What good is 1.5mm if it's suppose to measure 1.2mm?
olha esse tiozão ....kkk
Its kind of annoying how soo many people try so hard to be cute and funny
Why don't you tell us all what really annoys you? Poor prints? Can't level your bed? Don't know how to set your eSteps?
@@pushingplastic7445 honestly just the play acting of personalities. Your info is good and your actually pretty thourough in explanation. Its just a bit cringy when people start trying so hard to be silly. I am redoing calibrations for abs and being middle aged i forget things so i click on whatever video link shows up lol