Awesome! This video is long (33 min) but the actually testing and analyzing of the test I show here is really very short. I hope this helps and happy printing !
I appreciate that! I love breaking down the concepts that we throw around all the time so they become a little more tangible. Thanks for subscribing and I appreciate you commenting also!
Thank you so much! Sorry this reply is so late but rest assured when I first saw your comment nearly a month ago it made my entire weekend. I'm so glad to be helpful and so happy these videos are getting people to print better. You're the best, thank you!
just installed klipper trying to get my ender 3 s1 plus working as good as it should! will be watching more of your videos to get the best prints that I can
Awesome to hear it! I'd recommend my input shaping video as well. Going to have a lot more Klipper videos coming up so we can try and get that printer tip top!
I started with a sonic pad and have 2 printers setup with it. I have a 3rd printer that i deem my "experimental" printer that is in another room. I have a laptop running windows and using WSL (windows subsystem for linux) running klipper on it connected to my experimenting printer. Honestly klipper is scary at first but i love how easy it is to change settings without having to re-compile firmware and such. Just ordered a USB accelerometer to use on my klipper'd experimental printer.
Awesome to hear this? You are right, the beginning experience can be a lot of information to parse through, but in the end the experience is worth it! Good luck with the accelerometer, if you need help I have a video on input shaping that could help.
That's a great question! I would start with the probe setup (but you can probably skip this because the printer came with a probe). Then you should look at Klipper level your bed (screw tilt adjust) Input shaping Pressure Advance That order would be the most ideal. I'm working on a max acceleration and speed video, so after all these calibrations you should be ready for it
Thanks for this. I'm supposed to get my Sonic Pad this week to Upgrade my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I've never used Klipper before and this video made everything so easy to understand step by step.
Thanks for watching! It can be pretty obvious the difference pressure advance can have, so I really wanted to show it off! I appreciate you taking time to write a comment, thanks !
Thank you very much! I intend on making more of these Klipper related tutorials and it's comments like these that make me think they'll be worthwhile, so thank you!
Welcome back, missed seeing your videos. Again, provides a truly clear concise and complete procedure for PA determination. This is the last calibration I require, could do some other less important ones, to run Klipper with confidence at the higher possible speeds. Thanks again for your contributions.
Thank you Ross! I miss reading your emails! Hope all is well and I appreciate you finding this video and then dropping me a comment. This is really such an important calibration to getting those nice crisp prints, and one we never really had to contend with when using Marlin. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Jon, thank you so much for your generosity! Comments and donations like yours really blow me away when I receive them. I'm glad this video was of use to you and I promise to keep making more!
I am really impressed with this lesson. It explains the more complex concepts in a clear and organized fashion. I appreciate the objectives listed at the beginning of the video as it helps organize the listeners thought process as they absorb the information. This is a good example of how lesson videos should be done. Subscribed.
Thank you so much!! I take a lot of time preparing these videos so I can try and keep it informative but still concise (or as concise as I can). Thanks for noticing and for taking the time to leave a comment.
I recently finished updating my Alex marlin firmware for my h32 to klipper after watching your tutorial for it. Short story I got my 1st 3d printer because my youngest daughter was into it, and we used it for us to learn about 3d printing and to have something to do together. It was fun and frustrating at the same time. We have learned a lot from the growing pains. I didn't mind the initial assembling of the printer part as i felt it was crucial and necessary that we knew how things were put together and functioned to a certain degree. It is equally important to know the parts and know how to troubleshoot. Our major hurdle was manual bed leveling. I became better at it. However, as time passed, i grew less interested in 3d printing and at times complated buying an auto leveling 3d printer. We used it less as a result. Fast forward, i just happened to see your klipper tutorial. I was impressed by the setup. Then I saw the tutorial using klipper to auto level your bed quickly with bl touch. 🤔 Then i saw the mesh tutorial with klipper and bl touch. Those videoes inspired me to revisit our 3d printer and it was a game changer. I never wirelessly printed prior nor used a raspberr pi in that manner. Between the videos you graciously provided and took the time to share in detail, I was up and running like never before in a day. I added the PA setting as the last change to my congfig. I feel like my printer has been given new life. And what frustrated me was no longer an issue. I love srew tilt adjust. Like where was this all along 😂😊. Im sure many can relate to the frustration dealing with manually leveling you bed without me outlining the aount of time one could spend trying to get successful prints I can’t emphasize how discouraging and defeat we had prior to get quality prints. The difference now with the prints that I've done is night and day. Im happy that I took the time to watch your videos and had the patience to do the work to make the necessary changes. However, I must say that without your videos, I wouldn't be where I am now, that is, using our 3d printer again. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that your content and what you have shared has helped tremendously. So thanks. I did have a hiccup on a couple of things that i resolved except one, but it is more of a nuisance than anything. - the screw tilt adjust I had my two rear screw bed locations swapped 😂. I kept getting weird adjustment values after each scan. Drove me nuts. In my head, I had (1, 2, 3,4) =>(front left, front right, left rear, right rear) vs counting counterwise on the bed starting from left right screw. Anyway, after that, the leveling was so easy. Unbelievably easy. - As I buttoned up, finishing all my changes, etc. I copied over your start print and end print commands from your site. I just glazed over them as I had much of what you had. I made some other changes and did another sanity print. Klipper kept triggering errors followed by the G28. I later found out that the gcode was a setting that I didnt have originally. Ive used cura so it didnt like absolute mode vs relative mode. I removed that and was up and going again. - the pause print macro causes the print head to try to travel beyond the max xy of the print bed. I couldn't locate the macro itself. It would resume printing if i choose to, but then the print job gets out of line from what the pause caused. I assume the pause print macro is somewhere in the firmware or elsewhere because i didn't see it the printer cfg. I was curious as to what parameters it was using. I'll look some more or try testing the pause macro more. Maybe I missed something. Anyway, keep up the good work and sharing.
Wow, I gotta say I'm blown away by this. I love 3d printing, I love these printers, and I really enjoy being able to share my process and how I have figured certain things out. My hope is always that it helps someone, but I never really know once it's out of my hands. I am truly appreciative of your comment, it really means a lot to go into such detail about how my videos helped and also how 3d printing is important in your life. That being said, we can always make things better lol so on to your PAUSE issue. The base PAUSE code is I believe is spelled out in some of the python config files (one of the .py files). That being said there should be a few ways to adjust it. If you're trying a filament change, or using the PAUSE macro within another macro, you can specify coordinates of the PAUSE by simply adding them at the end. It would look like this: PAUSE X10 Y10 Z15 That would bring the printhead to those locations, and the z height should be 15mm above the pause position. If you're trying to just Pause your print through the front end you can add a new macro to adjust this. Now I don't know if this is the official way to go about it, but it's where I would start. You would basically be amending the current macro by rewriting. [gcode_macro PAUSE] rename_existing: BASE_PAUSE gcode: Base_Pause X10 Y10 Z20 Now that is completely off the top of my head and not tested, but presumably what this would do is replace your current PAUSE feature with this. When you call PAUSE anywhere within the gcode a PAUSE would ensue as normal, except it will park the print head at this location. I would be hesitant to insert this until I have a chance to double check its operation, but this will likely be the fix.
Welcome Aboard! Glad you're getting into this awesome hobby. What printer are you starting out with? I appreciate the subscribe and the comment, thank you!
Loving this video, and the other setting calibrations. One thing I've always wondered is why no one has created a sleep mode for 3d printers for when they are not being used you can hit a macro to put the printer mainboard and screen monitor to sleep and then can be woken up when you are read to do your next print. Pretty much everything has a sleep mode even my airfryer but not my printer...lol I wish I was a programmer so I could make one!
That's not a bad idea! A lot of the aftermarket companies put there screen/monitor to sleep but it's usually through the use of macros they run in the background and it's due to the way they implement those monitors. Your idea is really cool though and something worth thinking of.
Great to be back!!! I've been chomping at the bit trying to find time to make this video. I'm glad I did though because the support has been overwhelming! Thank you for the vote of confidence!
You aren't the only one who's asked. I'm going to start using it more and get comfortable with it so I can put that out. It would be worthwhile, it's a more dynamic test. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Thank you so much for leaving this comment! I take a lot of time trying to make sure these are complete and cohesive. It's always nice to hear it's working!
@@PrintsLeo3D I feel like it's missing a good test for initial layer flow rate though, I have a P1S and I've heard the same from other people with this printer as well, the initial layer flow rate need to be around ~90% when everything else is dialled in right 🥴 and i've never seen any video talk about it either 😅
Thanks Giovanni! For some reason I just can't discern good values from Ellis' method, but I will start using it more often, and I'll get a video on the process! Thanks for the feedback.
Great to hear, I love helping printers get on track! Once you understand the concept it all sort of makes sense, and I'm glad this helped. Happy printing!
Oh wow my father would be so proud of me if he read this comment, he's a huge Star Wars fan lol I appreciate the kind words and I hope this video helps out! May the force be with you.
Love this thank you, its my first time successful installing Klipper so the learning curve is steep at least in my experience, its videos like yours that truly help...personally i would love to see a full series on all the steps to properly calibrate - and with a why - you added that at the end haha
Thanks for the comment ! I have been writing the script for a proper "Klipper Onboarding" video, that goes over aspects like navigating the front end to the initial calibrations you'd need. There's more Klipper videos to come, and that intro video is one of them! Again, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Great video. Quick question at 30:00, when you talk about saving different materials. Could you write a new line and comment it out. Then activate the one you want to use before printing? For example, "#pressure_advance: x.xx # abs" ? Have several of those for different materials. Then just add and remove the "#" for the one you want to print? Also, Do you have a video for rotation distance calibration for klipper? These videos are very helpful for a newbie like me!
Yes you absolutely can! That's another great way to set this up. As long as everything is commented out Klipper won't read it and you can have anything you want written. I was just looking at videos people were asking for and rotation distance is on there, so it's going to be getting made sooner than later! Stay subscribed and you'll be notified when it gets published. I'm happy my videos have been helping!
You're welcome! I've had a lot of success using this exact method, so I'm hoping everyone else can have the same results. Thanks for watching and adding some kind words and inspiration.
15 printers?!?! You sound like me lol If you haven't been noticing any terrible artifacts it's possible this calibration won't provide a lot, but I would find that hard to be the case. This really helps us counter act the artifacts that come with increased acceleration that Klipper allows us. I hope this works out for you.
Thank you so much! Glad to be able to bring them to you! Been harder for me to find time for these videos but I grab every minute I can because I love it ! Thank you!
Great to hear!! If you haven't tweaked pressure advance yet I think this is such a crucial step to getting nice prints with the tools that Klipper offers. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thank you so much for this video .. I was able to determine the pressure advance using Ellis' test. I could see the minute variations and I was able to select the right set of lines. TBH..I don't calibrate my printers since I just use them for rough prototypes. I just 'fix' a print whenever I want to work with it. I've been seeing these artifacts for years but I never thought about fixing them b/c I didn't understand. I completely rebuilt one of my printers and was interested in calibrating for klipper...and seeing how good I can actually get my prints.
Well I'm glad you decided to give this a try! Klipper really makes this all so easy that it doesn't even hurt to get that little extra bit of quality out of them. As for Ellis' test I need to be more diligent about using it often so I get better at determining PA with it. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.
Thanks a lot, great video, i've improved a lot my print results. But i'm realizing that I have a lot to learn on retraction and slicer setup. Do you plan to do a video on the subject?
hi, i am using you gold mine to install and caliber my ender3 s1 pro. have few questions, 1. i am using cura but i have disabled acceration in cura as recommended so from where can i get the inner wall acceleration as in my print.cfg there is only one acceleration, its not broken into inner and outer. 2. how to test printer max speed using cura and klipper. thanks for all your videos.
I haven't used Cura in a while and that's one of the reasons why. When I was using it I don't remember there being an option to differentiate the accel speeds, which is why I moved over to Orca slicer. I should probably put out a video showcasing all of the awesome features it has. Not only does it allow you to customize the speeds/accels for different parts of the print, but it also gives you access to some great tools that can help determine where your maximum rates our (mostly flow but that will dictate speed). Of course Orca being an offshoot of Bambu>Prusa>Slic3r there are mote options out there that work too
@@PrintsLeo3D can to do a video of how to use orca slicer for a beginner who uses klipper. i installed it but it looked confusing for me bcz wasnt sure what to do with few settings as they are in klipper too. but an overall explantion and setup would help alot. also in cura it has Acceleration but i think when running with klipper we have to turn it off. it also can control acc on inner, outer, infill etc. if i use this from cura then should i disable the klipper acc. thanks
Such a helpful video! I subscribed after your manual bed leveling guide, and now PA calibration is another friendly guide to follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Klipper can be intimidating to the beginners, but your videos make it accessible.
Thank you so much, and I really appreciate you commenting, because what you said is my exact intention with my videos. I know how complicated getting this firmware onto your printer and printing can be. The calibrations that come bundled with it get easier as time goes on but there can be a slight learning curve. I am happy to share the steps that have helped me and hopefully they get others up and running quickly. Thank you!
Thank you for this video, I found it incredibly useful! I actually had some hiccups with the entire start gcode sequence - but it was my own doing. I have some start and end macros I had previously configured in my printer.cfg that it was whinging about, even after feeding it the bed and nozzle temps and confirming my macro name it was referencing in the template was correct. In the end I deleted everything out of the webpage and pasted a single line in: "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" - that correctly called my macro and fed it two temp parameters that are typically passed through to it from Prucaslicer to automatically change the temps based on the filament I chose for that print job. Oh - I also have a suggestion that will shorten the starting time some. Instead of using just the M190 and M109 commands, I start my macro off with M104 for the nozzle and then M140 for the bed. The nozzle needs to be hotter, so it starts first. But what these two commands do is they *start* the heating but not pause the gcode - you can continue to issue other commands like G90 for absolute coords, G28 to home the printhead to happen at the same time. After G28 finishes, you can *then* re-tell it about the temps with the M190 and M109 commands, - this time taking advantage of the pause behaviour to make sure it continues to heat everything up to those required temps if it hasn't done so already. It's not necessary obviously, but I just like to make the printer multitask while it's heating and expedite that initial process as much as possible.
Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you were able to take care of your issue. As always most of our issues are self inflicted lol great point with the M104/M140 stuff. I'm not sure if I just portrayed it that way for this video, but like you I do use heating commands that do not wait at first. They cycle through various calibrations, and then ultimately use wait for temp commands further in the start code. That's a great addendum, thank you!
I thought that would be my problem has I had this error: " 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:17 Warming up for bed leveling " but it seems even doing what you said, pasting only "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" doesn't work. @indyspud @PrintsLeo3D EDIT: I found out the origin of my problem. It's related to the macro names. I also add the same problem on Cura Start Code settings which was confusing me a lot. So the problem was that I updated Cura and I've lost all my start code settings, and when I was aware of this I've changed it to just "start_print etc etc". Before trying the steps you show on the video, I didn't try out any print. Then I just came here and tried these steps, not figuring out that in my case it should be BED_TEMP and EXTRUDER_TEMP. My macros are different. Thanks anyways ;) EDIT 2: I also add another problem. Actually, I think that "Move out of range" problem came out from bad BL Touch calibration.
Great topic for a newcomer to Klipper 😀 I 've an issue because the center line is totally empty 😱 I reduced the fast speed at 75mm/s but it doesn't change anything. My bed level is Ok and i could print some pieces these days. Any idea ???
I'd love to help! Do you mean the center portion of each of the calibration lines is not there? When an issue like this happens I would double check that you're using the correct test for your extruder. Making sure if you are using direct extrude the values end at 0.01, and with a Bowden setup the value ends at 1.0.
Excellent video! Thank you! My first Klipper printer arrives in under two days. I print a lot of TPU parts for my small online business. I'm not looking for faster print speed although that'll be nice for PLA and PET/G, but I'm looking forward to Klipper's input shaping and pressure advance increasing part quality, along with the Neptune 4 Pro's greatly improved part cooling.
That sounds great! Love me.some TPU I think it's such an underutilized/under talked about filament. Maybe people are afraid of printing it due to the troubles some people have with it. That being said Klipper isn't all about speed as you know, so I'm sure with the tools it does have you'll be printing some really nice models (and maybe save a little bit of time lol). Good luck and if you need any help let me know!
Hi, thanks for the excelent video. Question: When I open the Gcode, the print is outside the bed. I have a round bed (Flsun V400). How can I change this? thanks
I haven't used any deltas myself, but on the pressure advance lines test there is an option under the PRINT BED section labeled 'bed shape'. By default it's set to rectangle but you'll want to drop the menu down and select round. That should use the center of the round bed as the origin. This should do the trick for you but let me know how it works!
@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you! For now I scaled down the print so it just fitted the bed. Will try your solution. Although I have more problems with this method to work. I use Klipper and when I copy and paste the gcodes and change the temperatures, it still wont heat up and stalls before printing.
Are there any errors or commands printed in the console before the print? This website won't initiate any heating commands, which is why we have to add it ourselves in the start print section. I would just check and make sure it all gets pasted in correctly and there's no weird formatting. For instance you can get rid of everything after the temperature calls (the commented out info explaining what they are).
Macros like 'start_print' will be something you implement yourself. Basically what that means is finding it on the Internet and copy and pasting it lol once you get a good version you can start curating it to your needs. If you go to my website (PrintsLeo3D.com) and then find the Klipper section I have some examples macros to use including a 'start_print' macro
Thanks for the fantastic videos! Do you have anything for E-step calibration (re: Microswiss NG) or flow rate? So far I've used your bed leveling guide and am going to calibrate input shaping next.
Thanks for watching and great suggestions for videos. I have an estep calibration, but it's for Marlin firmware. I am going to add both of those videos to my 'to-do' list, although I will say for flow I follow a more aesthetic approach now and not so scientific. I have sort of eschewed the normal flow block tests and just use the visual appearance of prints to adjust flow as I see necessary. Thanks for watching my the videos, I appreciate it !
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks for the reply and the information. However, isn’t flow rate important for wall thickness and to make sure snap cases fit together properly, etc?
Wall thickness and flow rate do go hand in hand , but lately I've found running my normal flow rates and then adjusting tolerances (usually within 0.2) has been a quicker and better work flow
Do you have a good tutorial to add Klipper to the Anet A8? I already have Octoprint/Klipper on my Pi 3 and it’s ready to go. So I guess now all I need is the firmware?
Klipper is really great on that way. All you need now is to get a firmware image for the mainboard in your Anet, flash it, then plug into your pin and you're good to go. I don't own an Anet and not sure what board you're running but this config is setup for an Anet A8. The top portion of that config shows how to set up the image. If you need more help, want me to set up that image for you let me know. I'd double check your board first though just to be sure.
I thought that @indyspud solution would be solve this but it didn't. I had this error: " 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:17 Warming up for bed leveling " For me pasting "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" and removing the rest doesn't work. I even tried comparing it with an example of my cura gcodes and pasting it on that gcode, but it doesn't work: " M104 S200 M105 M109 S200 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=bed_temp VALUE=70 SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=extruder_temp VALUE=220 START_PRINT "
EDIT: I found out the origin of my problem. It's related to the macro names. I also add the same problem on Cura Start Code settings which was confusing me a lot. So the problem was that I updated Cura and I've lost all my start code settings, and when I was aware of this I've changed it to just "start_print etc etc". Before trying the steps you show on the video, I didn't try out any print. Then I just came here and tried these steps, not figuring out that in my case it should be BED_TEMP and EXTRUDER_TEMP. My macros are different. Thanks anyways ;) EDIT 2: I also add another problem. Actually that "Move out of range" problem came out from bad BL Touch calibration.
I have an E3 V2 that I’m considering Klipper for. It will be running on a Ubuntu laptop and I will be getting an accelerometer before I convert. The printer has a Micro Swiss NG extruder and hot end and a CR Touch bed leveling system. It has the 4.2.7 motherboard installed as well. Everything else is stock. I run Orca or Prusa Slicer (mostly Orca). What else do I need to consider? Thanks in advance!
That's a great question but it looks like you have most all of the bases covered. I would say one thing to consider is time. In my opinion Klipper is easy to navigate, but I don't know how intuitive it is initially. So you want to give yourself time to not only tune some of the newer settings for your printer that Klipper offers, but also to learn the ins and outs of Klipper. Things like how the front end works and consider you may need to retune some settings you've already calibrated in your slicer to optimize how Klipper works. If you make the jump and have questions let me know and I'd be happy to help where I can. You can also join the Discord, there's a lot of people there who have been using Klipper or have recently made the swap and they are also a great fount of information.
Thanks Peter, all these calibrations really add up to creating excellent prints. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. These sort of comments really help me push out more and more videos. Thanks !
@@PrintsLeo3D absolutely , i couldn't agree more , im sure a lot more people will find your content helpful , i know i certainly did , im looking forward for your new videos , know that i will be supporting them too because they are well made , and they provide that helping hand on our 3D printing journey, i might even go ahead and finally get that dual Z axis for my S2 , cheers .
Great video! , i followed the steps, but what is confusing me is that the print starts from 0 to 0.09, my final result is somewhere between 0.05 to 0.055 so i kept it in the middle. I am using a sonic pad and an ender 3 s1 pro.
You're doing it the right way! That's exactly how you'd want to set it. If you wanted to be even more exact you could run another test: have the start point be 0.05 and the end point be 0.06, and then set the step amount to 0.001 That will show you results at 0.051, 0.052, 0.053, etc all the way up to 0.06. This can help you narrow down exactly where you'd want to set it. Aside from doing that extra test you're method is going about it the correct way. Thanks for watching!
Do you may have time to make an vido about Bridging? I really can't find anything about it... I was typing to print this fancy loin but it comes out horrible every time and i cant really get the right settings
Bridging is tough. It can be dependent on cooling, speed, filament, temperature, etc. If you want to email with the model and what's going on I can try and help you from there. printsleo3d@gmail.com
Thank you very much! So, I was pretty sure there was a section (under the BED option) that allowed you to choose between a rectangle and round bed. I just double checked and I am not seeing it now. That being the case I would then suggest trying Ellis' pressure advance test, because I know for a fact you can choose a round bed for that test (ellis3dp.com/Pressure_Linear_Advance_Tool/) I don't use Ellis' test (now I use the test available directly fromOrcaSlicer) but I know their method is supposed to be a more accurate test, so you should get great results.
very clear video, thank you so much.. one question: in cura there is a klipper plugin where you can set values for pressure advance.. I prefer the printer.cfg method.. but (yes there is always a but ;) there you can also set: Infill Pressure Advance, wall pressure advance, Outer and inner wall. top / bottom, initial layer and skirt/brim pressure advance.. Top and outer wall make sense.. but how would you calibrate all those? Luc
Thanks for the comment and the info! I knew about the plugin for Cura but I didn't know it was that detailed! To be honest, if it was my printer, I wouldn't go through the time of calibrating pressure advances for all those different components. Remember pressure advance is not changing the 'amount' of material exiting the nozzle, it's just changing how that material is being distributed. For areas where your eye will never see (inner wall, bottom, skirt, brim) I would leave all of those advances the same value as whatever I set my overall Pressure advance to. There's something to be said for the pressure advance on top surfaces, but in general the flow% is what we use to control the look of top layers. So my advice would just use the same pressure advance for each of those features. I'm not even sure how Cura implements all the different values (I guess adds some SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE=X lines to the different sections of gcode?). If you wanted to tune those features you could run the lines test using whatever speed and accel metrics you use for those features (which can be found in Cura) and then find the best advance for each feature and plug it in. You'd also need to do this for each material. Ultimately I would do a single test and use it across all features. Hope this helps!
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks for your reply. Actually i was hoping, to solve a problem but it seems that it probably has nothing to do with it. my problem is on the inside ;-) i am printing lets say a bigger cube... like 15x15 cm... the first layer is really perfect.. after calibrating a few things, i never had so nice first layers... except... one thing. in the right bottom corner... there is the outer and the inner wall, perfect.. but where the lines start there is a one square mm hole.. like if it were there on purpose.. the second layer is again perfect and covers that hole... but the cube has that little hole in corner if you look at it on that side....but it has nothing to do with pressure advance as it still is there after configuration and when i turn it off completely.
@@PrintsLeo3D yes i did.. strange enough the preview is perfect.... as its a 9 hour print.. i have to wait until its finished.. but i will try to change the directions of the lines in the first layer by 90 degrees... if that doesnt work i will have to check the "magic numbers" maybe cura skips a line because as you also said in your video for pressure advance, if it cant divide the width by the line width in that angle.. it maybe skips a line.. and as it starts there the line is only 1 mm long.. but actually im not sure.. i was hoping it was a pressure advance issue..
Small tears across layers (which is probably different than what you're getting) are also often a result of acceleration that's too high, or consequently, temperatures that are too low.
You should put PA value not in the klipper.cfg, but in slicer material setting. Orca supports this natively, in PS you have to use Custom G-code in filament settings (like SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.02)
Alexey that is an option, and perhaps a great one for certain people. I tried to make this video, as all my others, for a wider audience and inputting the PA through a slicer can be difficult using Cura (last I checked anyway), and can lead to some issues if you are forgetful while slicing. Orca's ability to create multiple filament profiles and add a PA to each truly does make your recommendation a smart option. I am going to be making one (maybe more) follow up videos on not only different PA calibration techniques but also different ways to store the variable. Orca also has native PA calibration built right into the slicer, which makes the 14 minute calibration setup I go over in this video into a out a 30 second endeavor lol so there's always more to cover and I appreciate you mentioning this in the comments!
I agree with this in the most part as pressure advance will be different for each filament, but at the same time not all slicers make it easy to configure the PA value and you kind of have to do a compromise in firmware. With Klipper it is easier as it can be configured virtually on the fly, where Marlin is a little more complex. I have used a few slicers, and as much as Orca is great for somethings, like entering the PA, I still end up going back to Cura, and like @PrintsLeo3D said, it is not a setting Cura takes into account.
So the beginning and the end of the lines are wider, or 'fatter'? I would love to know a little more about the setup during testing. What material, speeds, printer, and temps are you working with?
Great suggestion! I am hoping on doing a few build projects later this year, and I am hoping a Voron is amongst them! I will probably be using OrcaSlicer though. I moved from Cura to Orca recently and have found it to be a great option. Luckily because Orca and SuperSlicer are nearly the same most of the info should be interchangeable. Not sure if SuperSlicer has the same built in calibrations available though, so I would need to look into that. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the recommendation.
If you're using the page I linked it will zero out the pressure advance you're using. Most of the other methods(like OrcaSlicer) will do the same thing, which is to zero out the current value.
Most all pressure advance tests will zero out whatever value you already have saved. If you're using the website I linked that's the case, so no need to make any changes beforehand 👍
Happy to help, but I'll probably need a little more information. Depending on how the lines look there are adjusts to make or some other fixes you can apply. The basic questions I have would be is this bowden or direct extrusion? What material are you using? What steps did you test within (i.e. .0 - 1.0 @0.05 steps or 0 - 0.1 @ 0.005). Ultimately I think email or Discord would be the best options to help fix this where I can get a look at some pictures. Either way get back to me with that info and I'll try and help.
I was wondering if someone in the comments could correct me or at least point me in the right direction cuz I feel like I know I'm wrong. I've noticed on Aurora Tech channel and this channel that the pressure advances are typically .20 for example. When I use Orcaslicer Pressure Advance Calibration, I get a value of .020. How come you guys are playing around in the hundreds and mine is down in the thousands of a decimal point? Was wondering if someone could do a pressure advanced test on their orca slicer and see if they see somewhere results. Thanks everyone! Happy holidays that are coming up! My current Klipper Pla PA setting is .024.
Hey David! I appreciate all the love you've been leaving in the comments ! The difference in those numbers would likely be due to the type of extrusion, one being direct extrude system and the other a bowden system. When testing PA for a direct extruder we test from 0 to 0.1 and with bowden we test from 0 to 1.0. So it's basically moving the decimal point one spot to the left. The reason for this is just the to the longer retraction that is usually necessary for bowden extruders. Thus it will have a PA measures in tenths of a millimeter while the direct extender will have a PA measure in hundredths of a millimeter.
@PrintsLeo3D Hi Can you please help with this message from Klipper? Move exceeds maximum extrusion (5.775mm^2 vs 1.440mm^2). I have exported the G-code and have this issue. Printer will stop and not print anything. Probably safety reason. What can I change to avoid this issue? Thank you!
This is an extrusion based issue, and my guess would be it's because you are/aren't using relative extrusion values. Can you copy and paste your start gcode ?
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi. Here is the star_print macro: [gcode_macro START_PRINT] gcode: {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(70)|float %} {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(220)|float %} # Use absolute coordinates G90 # Home the printer G28 # Reset extruder G92 E0 #BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE=deafult METHOD=automatic BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
# Move to wait position G1 X0 Y0 Z30 F4000.0
# Move Z axis up G1 Z2.0 F3000 # Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 # Draw the first line G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 # Move to the side G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 # Draw the second line G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 # Reset extruder G92 E0 Thank you
Rob, thank you! I try and take time to make sure the explanation is through enough without being to dragged out. Not sure if I ever find the perfect ratio , but I try and get there lol Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment !
@@PrintsLeo3D Quite welcome! Your lessons are much needed as well - most of the Klipper vids are outdated or one's pause game needs to be unmatched. Plus, you are breaking the sections down which is better than the end user scrubbing through a 1.5 hour video look for that one section needed.
That's really not all that high in my opinion. Different people you talk to refer to different 'metrics' as high. For direct drive some think above 0.02 is high, others think 0.1 is high. I'm of the opinion getting close to 0.1 (1.0 for Bowden) is a touch high, and you may want to look at your extruder to make sure it's working right. For your readings of 0.06-0.07 I wouldn't be all that concerned. It's on the higher side but I don't think you're in the 'danger zone' . I'd just keep calibrating (run a second test to see if you can hone in on a nice value between 0.06 and 0.07) and then use that. I would keep an eye on some prints, make sure it's not causing any print issues, but you'll probably be good. If anything you might even be able to lower your overall retraction after this.
Thank you so much! These calibrations can look tough at first but they really aren't that daunting, and they improve your print quality(and experience) so much! Sorry I was late to reply but I appreciate the comment!
If I have it configured in the printer config in Klipper, as well as the Cura setting, who wins? I’d guess Cura’s GCode file, but does anyone know with certainty?
Nazik sözleriniz için teşekkür ederiz ve hem 3d baskı üzerinden bağlantı kurduğunuz için hem de bu kanal için teşekkür ederiz! Umarım ikinize de yazdırma konusunda iyi şanslar ve videolarımı bulduğunuz için müteşekkirim!
Hello, question, I cannot find my "start_print" or "print_start" in my fluid gcode, since only "cancel_print" appears, I tried putting "start_print" and "print_start", even if I couldn't do it and I get an error in all 3 cases , I don't know if I should put "cancel_print" which is the only thing I found in my gcode. What can I do in this case?
Peter is it just during this test or is it happen while normally printing? My first guess would be to check the temperature settings, and make sure they are being passed to the printer properly.
Hi there Leo and all, I just done a fantastic PETG Neo-Green print of a Delta printer Spool Unit for my FL Sun QQ-S Pro 3D Printer and a two part piece Sun Lu Mounting Bracket to hold their nice S1 Filament Dryer Box Unit on top of the Frame of the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max all done on the Neptune 3 Max huge 400 x 400 mm bed. These are the most smooth amazing well done prints I ever got! I must have got the lovely Sun Lu PETG filament really dialed in? Their PETG filament is really some of the best filament I've tried and I tried many different brands. And Sun Lu I see is having a big 10th year sale on their filaments now. Like me you go and get a bargain. I not sponsored by them, I just like their PETG filament and thought you may too? The details are on the details of the video I done of the printing finishing on the Max. Hope you all like it? 😉 link below. ua-cam.com/video/J6LKQmUk3y4/v-deo.html
You weren't lying that color is amazing! Print looks like it's coming out really nice too! I have had some decent results with the SunLu filaments I've used. Usually the issue has always been their customer service, but the filament has always been pretty good. You're right they are always offering some deals too, so maybe I should check out their website and see what they have lol I have been enjoying buying my filament in bulk from iiiDMax 3D, but I know people outside of the USA can't purchase them. Thanks for the heads up, it's a great color, and is printing nice, especially for PETG!!
@@PrintsLeo3D Hey Leo, I am Pleased you liked the print! The only one of their filament I've been having problems with sofar is the New PLA+ bright Yellow. I've tried 4 times to print with it on the Neptune 3 and each time no matter the flow rate or the heat settings it just keep's blocking in the head? The hot end in the Neptune 3 is a All Metal Throat tube I fitted to the printer to help with the higher temp prints! At the moment the max temp it can do is still set to 260 C as the original set up. But I may update the hot end fully to be a 300 C one if the firmware can support it? I will have to check with Elegoo about it? I may try to print the picky PLA+ Bright Yellow by Sun Lu on the Aquila. Because it has been upgraded with a full metal hot end as you know? The one odd thing I found out about the Aquila all metal hot end is, when I am printing any PLA or PETG with it, I have to set the flow rate of the filament to 20% only even at normal printing temps! If I don't the filament pours out the nozzle and expands like foaming seal does. I tried many filament brands and settings but each time it goes nuts expanding to over twice the volume and blocking up the hot end. Must be something to do with the way the hot end is set up inside? I write on the lids of the filament boxes all the settings needed I found after testing for each printer, since they all do it different. The PETG Neo Green prints I got did not sit in a dry box while printing that 27 hours so the fact it was stable all that time is amazing moisture wise. it is still late summer here in the UK, so it can get warm in the room from also the bed heat. I normally put the filament in a S1 Sun Lu Dryer on the Aquila or the Neptune 3, I going to try to buy a S2 Sun Lu high temp LCD fronted dryer bx to sit up above the Neptune 3 Max, Hence the reason to print the bracket for that. I be joining your discord soon so be easier to talk and share the prints. Later Leo. 😁
Hi Leo Again, I thought I tell you that I wen't on to the Web site of BTT and as I said they got their stuff on Sale, I ordered their Pad 7 Klipper unit and it costing me only £109.00p which even in the UK for that unit is just amazing when on Amazon UK it is around £159.00p So at least a £50 saving right there. The Pad 7 be here within 7 days they said? So that's a bargain big time. Hopefully I will learn how to use it to control the Elegoo Neptune 3 & maybe at the same time the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max since they both from the same company and it states up to 4 printers controlled. Have you covered how to sort out the control by this pad 7 on the Elegoo FDM printers yet? I not any chance you do so soon? Thanks 😁
@colincampbell3679 I actually have the Pad 7 sitting in a box in my basement right now lol the pad and some great Klipper calibrations are what are on the docket next!
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi Leo, I've at long last just got the Big Tree Tech Pad 7 unit. Boy was this a huge trouble getting it? I ordered it back on the 29th August 2023 direct from the web site of BTT. because they had it on sale, a saving of £50 on the Amazon UK one. They said it be a 7 day delivery due to it coming from Germany in the EU. as that was the one I picked as the closest outlet of theirs! I tracked it from there then over to the UK where UK Customs checked it through then it got to two towns away from me where they had it in a parcel force ( royal mail ) depot. And there it sat not being delivered. I looked at the tracking and it said "Exception" but no note saying what that means? I waited and waited and still it sat there. then about a week after it was meant to have been delivered, they sent a post letter telling me they were holding the parcel until I paid them a customs fee they had paid on my behalf to the UK customs. So I had to pay a £33 fee just to get the parcel released ( so much for the saving I had got when I brought it ) I paid it and then after the confirm of the payment I still did not receive it. I telephoned them, but got a auto help thing which I picked the re-delivery option. but still it sat there. I had about my fill of all this trouble, so I wrote the royal mail a complaint email with all the details needed? Then later about another week on they emailed me and told me that the parcel was still not paid for? even though I had the receipt email. They also said that I had paid the wrong company the one I was to pay was the Parcel Force not the Royal Mail. seems although I had known them as two parts of one company for years, Now they had split up in to two companies even though they look as one? So I had to now pay again to the Parcel Force part for the customs fee and the royal mail part is now just paying back the fee I sent them by mistake. and once the fee was paid they just delivered the parcel almost one month late yesterday. And here's the real thing about this, I found out that the rules of this import tax thing state that if the parcel costs less than £135 you don't even have to pay the import fee ( the EU is the one this fee is only for ) My parcel costs £109 so why did they even have to charge the fee? I will now have to chase up the HMRC ( our tax and customs in the UK ) ( I will from now on not order from the EU based depots so not to pay the customs as it only for the orders from there ) to get back that fee I should not have had to have paid? Why me, every time I have troubles with all the stuff. Anyway I have the pad 7 now comes the hard part set up since there is no instructions in the box. I know there is channels on youtube about this set up, but I still going to have a hard time setting it up! I hoping you do a nice set by set help set up for it soon? And after me asking Elegoo to help sort out a new firm ware for my Elegoo Neptune 3 Max so I could get 300 c all metal hot end installed they told me They will not do one and I should not do any upgrading like that to the printer? Now I just seen they have released two new FDM printers, a Neptune 4 Plus Klipper version. and a Neptune 4 Max klipper version with the 300 c all metal hot end. The very type of set up I needed my Neptune 3 Max to have? so unfair. I not buying it again, that's why I need to set up my pad 7 to do the faster klipper printing on the max I have?
Smooth time is not something I have spent a ton of time tweaking , as from what I mostly read, there are diminishing returns with the amount of time you'd be sinking in. As pressure advance is enabled the extruder may be making sudden speed changes, to counteract that Klipper implements that smooth time. The value indicates the window of time that Klipper will take to smooth out those possible extruder velocity changes. If the value is too low it's possibly the extruder can miss steps. If the value is too high they you would be missing out on some of the PA benefits and get rounded off corners. It's something Kevin O'Connor himself has said "rarely requires tuning [from the default]" so it wasn't something I wanted to spend too much time on. If you did want to check out a tuning calibration for it then you could run the method #1 test cube, and you would sub in "smooth_time" as the parameter. Then use a starting value of "0.101" and a factor of "0.002". Hope this helps!
I have a direct drive Ender 3 v3 SE, I tested from 0 to 0.1 as suggested, but none of my lines were connected. Is it safe to test higher values or does it indicate that another setting needs looking at?
Great question! If that was my printer I would look into other issues before I continued with pressure advance, but also I would want to clarify what the lines look like. It can be possible you aren't extrusing enough for the test to give a very accurate result. Have you calcukayed the correct rotation values for your extruder ? Let me know and we can keep diagnosing it.
@@PrintsLeo3D I printed the the pressure advance tower and ended up with a value of 0.17. Yet to do a test print. My rotation is set at about 7.54 and flow is at 97.5
That rotation distance and flow sound on par. You don't have a Bowden system to contend with so I don't know why you'd have a higher than normal PA, but give that a test print and see how it does. This isn't silk filament is it?
¡Muchas gracias! Me alegra que estos videos se puedan disfrutar en otros idiomas además del inglés. Cuanta más gente pueda ayudar, mejor. ¡Gracias por ver!
Hi great video, I've used the Ellies method before and thought I'd try this out. However I cannot get a good result, the best is around 0.4 and I've tried ranges from 0.3-0.5 but I have some 'bulging' on the right side of the lines. What types of things can affect this? I have an ender 3v2 with bi-metal hot-end and I have already configured input shaping. thanks.
Hey Marcos. There's a lot of small things that can affect the outside of your models. If you done the proper PA and Input shaping calibrations I would look at your slicer settings. What's the line width for your walls set to? Are you using any dynamic speed adjustments? Is this across many filament types/brands? Ultimately this may be something we can resolve better through email so I can see exactly the sort of issues your experiencing. Hope this helps a little, maybe get you started looking at the right area. Also I was just thinking with a PA value that is fluctuationing is it possible there's some sort of pre nozzle problem. Loose Bowden tube? Extruder gear that's beginning to be ground away? Something like that.
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks Leo, I appreciate the response... sorry I wasn't very clear, but when I meant I'm not getting a good result I meant in the lines test printed in your video. Every line shows some type of blobbing or under extrusion. my extruder gears seem fine and the Bowden tube is fitted tight I have a bi-metal heartbreak so the Bowden tube goes up against that.
That's not a bad option at all. I just wanted to give people a general overview of the process, how it works, and what it's function is. Adding the different slicers and how to set them up was going to increase the length of an already long video. My goal was to get people informed and up and running with PA. I think there's a few ways to implement it and the best would probably be whatever works for you.
@PrintsLeo3D seriously though, I tried a standard adxl345 and made all the connections but couldn't get the chip to communicate properly, then I tried the btt345 and there was nothing on that. I was then introduced to KUSBA and was looking through your videos and found this. Got it set up first go. Now I'm working on my other 2 printers!
Often when that's the issue it's because you may not be using the correct step values. Make sure to double check the extruder setup and use either 0.1 as an end figure or 1.0 accordingly
thx for the video but i woundring if you know why i get this up when i try to print a test? Error evaluating 'gcode_macro PRINT_START:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'BED_TEMP'
That's Klipper telling you there's something in your start code that is not be defined, for this instance it's the variable BED_TEMP. You're likely passing the hot end and bed temp values from your slicer, using variables like HOT END and BED_TEMP. The slicer popilayes those variables for you but a simple website like Ellis' or the pressure advance website I show in this video will not pass those variables. So you will need to amend your start_print macro when using these websites. Just comment out any section that is using passed variables and set them all through the website only.
Perfect timing, as I started to look into running pressure advance on Klipper for the first time yesterday. Thanks
Awesome! This video is long (33 min) but the actually testing and analyzing of the test I show here is really very short. I hope this helps and happy printing !
I finally got to undestand what pressure advance is thanks to your video. You've got a new subscriber
I appreciate that! I love breaking down the concepts that we throw around all the time so they become a little more tangible. Thanks for subscribing and I appreciate you commenting also!
It was about time I subscribed to this guy every time. I need something done and help with Klipper. This guy has the answer. You rock
Thank you ! I love Klipper and I have many more related videos to come. If you need any help just let me know in the comments and I'll do my best !
Leo... EXCELLENT presentation. I've struggled with flow rates on my new Sovol Klipper and your video has been a game changer! Thank you.
Thank you so much! Sorry this reply is so late but rest assured when I first saw your comment nearly a month ago it made my entire weekend. I'm so glad to be helpful and so happy these videos are getting people to print better. You're the best, thank you!
just installed klipper trying to get my ender 3 s1 plus working as good as it should! will be watching more of your videos to get the best prints that I can
Awesome to hear it! I'd recommend my input shaping video as well. Going to have a lot more Klipper videos coming up so we can try and get that printer tip top!
I started with a sonic pad and have 2 printers setup with it. I have a 3rd printer that i deem my "experimental" printer that is in another room. I have a laptop running windows and using WSL (windows subsystem for linux) running klipper on it connected to my experimenting printer. Honestly klipper is scary at first but i love how easy it is to change settings without having to re-compile firmware and such. Just ordered a USB accelerometer to use on my klipper'd experimental printer.
Awesome to hear this? You are right, the beginning experience can be a lot of information to parse through, but in the end the experience is worth it! Good luck with the accelerometer, if you need help I have a video on input shaping that could help.
I’m also using an ender 3 s1 plus with sonic pad. In what order should I watch your videos to get my prints to come out nice looking.
That's a great question! I would start with the probe setup (but you can probably skip this because the printer came with a probe). Then you should look at Klipper level your bed (screw tilt adjust)
Input shaping
Pressure Advance
That order would be the most ideal. I'm working on a max acceleration and speed video, so after all these calibrations you should be ready for it
Thanks for this. I'm supposed to get my Sonic Pad this week to Upgrade my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I've never used Klipper before and this video made everything so easy to understand step by step.
Thank you for the examples at the end showing with and without PA
Thanks for watching! It can be pretty obvious the difference pressure advance can have, so I really wanted to show it off! I appreciate you taking time to write a comment, thanks !
This is the best guide on this subject I have seen yet. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you very much! I intend on making more of these Klipper related tutorials and it's comments like these that make me think they'll be worthwhile, so thank you!
Welcome back, missed seeing your videos. Again, provides a truly clear concise and complete procedure for PA determination. This is the last calibration I require, could do some other less important ones, to run Klipper with confidence at the higher possible speeds. Thanks again for your contributions.
Thank you Ross! I miss reading your emails! Hope all is well and I appreciate you finding this video and then dropping me a comment. This is really such an important calibration to getting those nice crisp prints, and one we never really had to contend with when using Marlin. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Thanks!
Jon, thank you so much for your generosity! Comments and donations like yours really blow me away when I receive them. I'm glad this video was of use to you and I promise to keep making more!
I am really impressed with this lesson. It explains the more complex concepts in a clear and organized fashion. I appreciate the objectives listed at the beginning of the video as it helps organize the listeners thought process as they absorb the information. This is a good example of how lesson videos should be done. Subscribed.
Your clip is always good quality in term of explanation and visualization. Super good and super thanks.
Thank you so much!! I take a lot of time preparing these videos so I can try and keep it informative but still concise (or as concise as I can). Thanks for noticing and for taking the time to leave a comment.
I recently finished updating my Alex marlin firmware for my h32 to klipper after watching your tutorial for it.
Short story I got my 1st 3d printer because my youngest daughter was into it, and we used it for us to learn about 3d printing and to have something to do together. It was fun and frustrating at the same time. We have learned a lot from the growing pains. I didn't mind the initial assembling of the printer part as i felt it was crucial and necessary that we knew how things were put together and functioned to a certain degree. It is equally important to know the parts and know how to troubleshoot. Our major hurdle was manual bed leveling. I became better at it. However, as time passed, i grew less interested in 3d printing and at times complated buying an auto leveling 3d printer. We used it less as a result.
Fast forward, i just happened to see your klipper tutorial. I was impressed by the setup. Then I saw the tutorial using klipper to auto level your bed quickly with bl touch. 🤔 Then i saw the mesh tutorial with klipper and bl touch.
Those videoes inspired me to revisit our 3d printer and it was a game changer. I never wirelessly printed prior nor used a raspberr pi in that manner.
Between the videos you graciously provided and took the time to share in detail, I was up and running like never before in a day. I added the PA setting as the last change to my congfig.
I feel like my printer has been given new life. And what frustrated me was no longer an issue. I love srew tilt adjust. Like where was this all along 😂😊. Im sure many can relate to the frustration dealing with manually leveling you bed without me outlining the aount of time one could spend trying to get successful prints I can’t emphasize how discouraging and defeat we had prior to get quality prints. The difference now with the prints that I've done is night and day. Im happy that I took the time to watch your videos and had the patience to do the work to make the necessary changes. However, I must say that without your videos, I wouldn't be where I am now, that is, using our 3d printer again. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that your content and what you have shared has helped tremendously. So thanks.
I did have a hiccup on a couple of things that i resolved except one, but it is more of a nuisance than anything.
- the screw tilt adjust I had my two rear screw bed locations swapped 😂. I kept getting weird adjustment values after each scan. Drove me nuts. In my head, I had (1, 2, 3,4) =>(front left, front right, left rear, right rear) vs counting counterwise on the bed starting from left right screw. Anyway, after that, the leveling was so easy. Unbelievably easy.
- As I buttoned up, finishing all my changes, etc. I copied over your start print and end print commands from your site. I just glazed over them as I had much of what you had. I made some other changes and did another sanity print. Klipper kept triggering errors followed by the G28. I later found out that the gcode was a setting that I didnt have originally. Ive used cura so it didnt like absolute mode vs relative mode. I removed that and was up and going again.
- the pause print macro causes the print head to try to travel beyond the max xy of the print bed. I couldn't locate the macro itself. It would resume printing if i choose to, but then the print job gets out of line from what the pause caused. I assume the pause print macro is somewhere in the firmware or elsewhere because i didn't see it the printer cfg. I was curious as to what parameters it was using. I'll look some more or try testing the pause macro more. Maybe I missed something.
Anyway, keep up the good work and sharing.
Wow, I gotta say I'm blown away by this. I love 3d printing, I love these printers, and I really enjoy being able to share my process and how I have figured certain things out. My hope is always that it helps someone, but I never really know once it's out of my hands. I am truly appreciative of your comment, it really means a lot to go into such detail about how my videos helped and also how 3d printing is important in your life. That being said, we can always make things better lol so on to your PAUSE issue.
The base PAUSE code is I believe is spelled out in some of the python config files (one of the .py files). That being said there should be a few ways to adjust it. If you're trying a filament change, or using the PAUSE macro within another macro, you can specify coordinates of the PAUSE by simply adding them at the end. It would look like this:
PAUSE X10 Y10 Z15
That would bring the printhead to those locations, and the z height should be 15mm above the pause position. If you're trying to just Pause your print through the front end you can add a new macro to adjust this. Now I don't know if this is the official way to go about it, but it's where I would start. You would basically be amending the current macro by rewriting.
[gcode_macro PAUSE]
rename_existing: BASE_PAUSE
gcode:
Base_Pause X10 Y10 Z20
Now that is completely off the top of my head and not tested, but presumably what this would do is replace your current PAUSE feature with this. When you call PAUSE anywhere within the gcode a PAUSE would ensue as normal, except it will park the print head at this location. I would be hesitant to insert this until I have a chance to double check its operation, but this will likely be the fix.
Leo is back. Leo is back! 🎉
Happy to be back!! Been binging some 3dPrintSOS content in the meantime to sustain me lol
I was just wondering where you've been hiding. Nice to see you again 💋
Time hasn't been on my side lately lol trying to find some whenever I can to do what I love !
I expect my first 3d printer in a couple of days. Your videos are just AWESOME! Thank you very much for these tutorials! Subscribed! 👍
Welcome Aboard! Glad you're getting into this awesome hobby. What printer are you starting out with? I appreciate the subscribe and the comment, thank you!
It's an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. Can't wait. :-)
Very cool. Good luck!
Loving this video, and the other setting calibrations. One thing I've always wondered is why no one has created a sleep mode for 3d printers for when they are not being used you can hit a macro to put the printer mainboard and screen monitor to sleep and then can be woken up when you are read to do your next print. Pretty much everything has a sleep mode even my airfryer but not my printer...lol I wish I was a programmer so I could make one!
That's not a bad idea! A lot of the aftermarket companies put there screen/monitor to sleep but it's usually through the use of macros they run in the background and it's due to the way they implement those monitors. Your idea is really cool though and something worth thinking of.
Nice to see you back with a new helpful video Leo👏👏
Great to be back!!! I've been chomping at the bit trying to find time to make this video. I'm glad I did though because the support has been overwhelming! Thank you for the vote of confidence!
Would love to see PA video based on Ellis' guide, haven't seen any out there. Thank you for the awesome content!
You aren't the only one who's asked. I'm going to start using it more and get comfortable with it so I can put that out. It would be worthwhile, it's a more dynamic test. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Thank you for this! This was the most clear explanation I have found.
Thank you so much for leaving this comment! I take a lot of time trying to make sure these are complete and cohesive. It's always nice to hear it's working!
this video made me glad I'm using orca slicer with the test build into it...
Yes absolutely! I've been using orca for a while now, and the PA test as well as the volumetric flow test have been life savers! Thanks for commenting
@@PrintsLeo3D I feel like it's missing a good test for initial layer flow rate though, I have a P1S and I've heard the same from other people with this printer as well, the initial layer flow rate need to be around ~90% when everything else is dialled in right 🥴 and i've never seen any video talk about it either 😅
please use ellis method, your thorough explanation and guide are helpful. beyond what you believe your videos are, thank you!
Thanks Giovanni! For some reason I just can't discern good values from Ellis' method, but I will start using it more often, and I'll get a video on the process! Thanks for the feedback.
now i get it. i had a way to high pressure advance setting and all my prints where bad. now i am back on the right track!
Great to hear, I love helping printers get on track! Once you understand the concept it all sort of makes sense, and I'm glad this helped. Happy printing!
And another Jedi Master video :) Thanks Leo!
Oh wow my father would be so proud of me if he read this comment, he's a huge Star Wars fan lol I appreciate the kind words and I hope this video helps out! May the force be with you.
Love this thank you, its my first time successful installing Klipper so the learning curve is steep at least in my experience, its videos like yours that truly help...personally i would love to see a full series on all the steps to properly calibrate - and with a why - you added that at the end haha
Thanks for the comment ! I have been writing the script for a proper "Klipper Onboarding" video, that goes over aspects like navigating the front end to the initial calibrations you'd need. There's more Klipper videos to come, and that intro video is one of them! Again, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Great video. Quick question at 30:00, when you talk about saving different materials. Could you write a new line and comment it out. Then activate the one you want to use before printing? For example, "#pressure_advance: x.xx # abs" ? Have several of those for different materials. Then just add and remove the "#" for the one you want to print?
Also, Do you have a video for rotation distance calibration for klipper? These videos are very helpful for a newbie like me!
Yes you absolutely can! That's another great way to set this up. As long as everything is commented out Klipper won't read it and you can have anything you want written.
I was just looking at videos people were asking for and rotation distance is on there, so it's going to be getting made sooner than later! Stay subscribed and you'll be notified when it gets published. I'm happy my videos have been helping!
Thank you very much. Mainly for the detailed explanation of each item. Doing the calibration in two steps is also a good idea, it adds great accuracy.
You're welcome! I've had a lot of success using this exact method, so I'm hoping everyone else can have the same results. Thanks for watching and adding some kind words and inspiration.
I have 15 3d printers and I never thought of this, so it will be an interesting view, and I look forward to seeing how it works on my printing quality
15 printers?!?! You sound like me lol If you haven't been noticing any terrible artifacts it's possible this calibration won't provide a lot, but I would find that hard to be the case. This really helps us counter act the artifacts that come with increased acceleration that Klipper allows us. I hope this works out for you.
That was an excellent explanation Leo!
Thanks John, I appreciate that. This is such an important calibration I'm just happy to be able to shed some more light on it. Thanks !
Hey Leo, thanks for all your videos.
Thank you so much! Glad to be able to bring them to you! Been harder for me to find time for these videos but I grab every minute I can because I love it ! Thank you!
Thanks Leo.Informative as usual.
Thanks for taking the time to drop a comment! Things like that are what help drive this channel. Thank you!
Valeu!
Thank you so so much!!! Generosity like this always floors me! Thanks again , a great start to the new year. Thank you!
@@PrintsLeo3D Your videos helped me a lot, I just migrated from marlin to klipper, and you videos guided me... I learned a lot, thanks!
great video, keep up the good work. I setup my aquila h32 with klipper and its running 100 times better.
Great to hear!! If you haven't tweaked pressure advance yet I think this is such a crucial step to getting nice prints with the tools that Klipper offers. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thank you so much for this video .. I was able to determine the pressure advance using Ellis' test. I could see the minute variations and I was able to select the right set of lines. TBH..I don't calibrate my printers since I just use them for rough prototypes. I just 'fix' a print whenever I want to work with it. I've been seeing these artifacts for years but I never thought about fixing them b/c I didn't understand. I completely rebuilt one of my printers and was interested in calibrating for klipper...and seeing how good I can actually get my prints.
Well I'm glad you decided to give this a try! Klipper really makes this all so easy that it doesn't even hurt to get that little extra bit of quality out of them. As for Ellis' test I need to be more diligent about using it often so I get better at determining PA with it. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.
Thanks a lot, great video, i've improved a lot my print results. But i'm realizing that I have a lot to learn on retraction and slicer setup. Do you plan to do a video on the subject?
hi, i am using you gold mine to install and caliber my ender3 s1 pro. have few questions,
1. i am using cura but i have disabled acceration in cura as recommended so from where can i get the inner wall acceleration as in my print.cfg there is only one acceleration, its not broken into inner and outer.
2. how to test printer max speed using cura and klipper.
thanks for all your videos.
I haven't used Cura in a while and that's one of the reasons why. When I was using it I don't remember there being an option to differentiate the accel speeds, which is why I moved over to Orca slicer. I should probably put out a video showcasing all of the awesome features it has. Not only does it allow you to customize the speeds/accels for different parts of the print, but it also gives you access to some great tools that can help determine where your maximum rates our (mostly flow but that will dictate speed). Of course Orca being an offshoot of Bambu>Prusa>Slic3r there are mote options out there that work too
@@PrintsLeo3D can to do a video of how to use orca slicer for a beginner who uses klipper. i installed it but it looked confusing for me bcz wasnt sure what to do with few settings as they are in klipper too. but an overall explantion and setup would help alot. also in cura it has Acceleration but i think when running with klipper we have to turn it off. it also can control acc on inner, outer, infill etc. if i use this from cura then should i disable the klipper acc. thanks
Such a helpful video! I subscribed after your manual bed leveling guide, and now PA calibration is another friendly guide to follow.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Klipper can be intimidating to the beginners, but your videos make it accessible.
Thank you so much, and I really appreciate you commenting, because what you said is my exact intention with my videos. I know how complicated getting this firmware onto your printer and printing can be. The calibrations that come bundled with it get easier as time goes on but there can be a slight learning curve. I am happy to share the steps that have helped me and hopefully they get others up and running quickly. Thank you!
Thank you for this video, I found it incredibly useful!
I actually had some hiccups with the entire start gcode sequence - but it was my own doing. I have some start and end macros I had previously configured in my printer.cfg that it was whinging about, even after feeding it the bed and nozzle temps and confirming my macro name it was referencing in the template was correct. In the end I deleted everything out of the webpage and pasted a single line in: "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" - that correctly called my macro and fed it two temp parameters that are typically passed through to it from Prucaslicer to automatically change the temps based on the filament I chose for that print job.
Oh - I also have a suggestion that will shorten the starting time some. Instead of using just the M190 and M109 commands, I start my macro off with M104 for the nozzle and then M140 for the bed. The nozzle needs to be hotter, so it starts first. But what these two commands do is they *start* the heating but not pause the gcode - you can continue to issue other commands like G90 for absolute coords, G28 to home the printhead to happen at the same time. After G28 finishes, you can *then* re-tell it about the temps with the M190 and M109 commands, - this time taking advantage of the pause behaviour to make sure it continues to heat everything up to those required temps if it hasn't done so already. It's not necessary obviously, but I just like to make the printer multitask while it's heating and expedite that initial process as much as possible.
Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you were able to take care of your issue. As always most of our issues are self inflicted lol great point with the M104/M140 stuff. I'm not sure if I just portrayed it that way for this video, but like you I do use heating commands that do not wait at first. They cycle through various calibrations, and then ultimately use wait for temp commands further in the start code. That's a great addendum, thank you!
I thought that would be my problem has I had this error:
"
23:19
SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard
23:19
SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard
23:19
Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000]
23:19
Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000]
23:17
Warming up for bed leveling
"
but it seems even doing what you said, pasting only "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" doesn't work.
@indyspud @PrintsLeo3D
EDIT: I found out the origin of my problem. It's related to the macro names. I also add the same problem on Cura Start Code settings which was confusing me a lot. So the problem was that I updated Cura and I've lost all my start code settings, and when I was aware of this I've changed it to just "start_print etc etc". Before trying the steps you show on the video, I didn't try out any print. Then I just came here and tried these steps, not figuring out that in my case it should be BED_TEMP and EXTRUDER_TEMP. My macros are different. Thanks anyways ;)
EDIT 2: I also add another problem. Actually, I think that "Move out of range" problem came out from bad BL Touch calibration.
Great topic for a newcomer to Klipper 😀
I 've an issue because the center line is totally empty 😱
I reduced the fast speed at 75mm/s but it doesn't change anything. My bed level is Ok and i could print some pieces these days.
Any idea ???
I'd love to help! Do you mean the center portion of each of the calibration lines is not there? When an issue like this happens I would double check that you're using the correct test for your extruder. Making sure if you are using direct extrude the values end at 0.01, and with a Bowden setup the value ends at 1.0.
Excellent video! Thank you! My first Klipper printer arrives in under two days. I print a lot of TPU parts for my small online business. I'm not looking for faster print speed although that'll be nice for PLA and PET/G, but I'm looking forward to Klipper's input shaping and pressure advance increasing part quality, along with the Neptune 4 Pro's greatly improved part cooling.
That sounds great! Love me.some TPU I think it's such an underutilized/under talked about filament. Maybe people are afraid of printing it due to the troubles some people have with it. That being said Klipper isn't all about speed as you know, so I'm sure with the tools it does have you'll be printing some really nice models (and maybe save a little bit of time lol). Good luck and if you need any help let me know!
Hi, thanks for the excelent video. Question: When I open the Gcode, the print is outside the bed. I have a round bed (Flsun V400). How can I change this? thanks
I haven't used any deltas myself, but on the pressure advance lines test there is an option under the PRINT BED section labeled 'bed shape'. By default it's set to rectangle but you'll want to drop the menu down and select round. That should use the center of the round bed as the origin. This should do the trick for you but let me know how it works!
@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you! For now I scaled down the print so it just fitted the bed. Will try your solution. Although I have more problems with this method to work. I use Klipper and when I copy and paste the gcodes and change the temperatures, it still wont heat up and stalls before printing.
Are there any errors or commands printed in the console before the print? This website won't initiate any heating commands, which is why we have to add it ourselves in the start print section. I would just check and make sure it all gets pasted in correctly and there's no weird formatting. For instance you can get rid of everything after the temperature calls (the commented out info explaining what they are).
Hi All. im new to klipper and loving it, where do i find the "start print" macros in Klipper?
Macros like 'start_print' will be something you implement yourself. Basically what that means is finding it on the Internet and copy and pasting it lol once you get a good version you can start curating it to your needs. If you go to my website (PrintsLeo3D.com) and then find the Klipper section I have some examples macros to use including a 'start_print' macro
Thanks for the fantastic videos! Do you have anything for E-step calibration (re: Microswiss NG) or flow rate? So far I've used your bed leveling guide and am going to calibrate input shaping next.
Thanks for watching and great suggestions for videos. I have an estep calibration, but it's for Marlin firmware. I am going to add both of those videos to my 'to-do' list, although I will say for flow I follow a more aesthetic approach now and not so scientific. I have sort of eschewed the normal flow block tests and just use the visual appearance of prints to adjust flow as I see necessary. Thanks for watching my the videos, I appreciate it !
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks for the reply and the information. However, isn’t flow rate important for wall thickness and to make sure snap cases fit together properly, etc?
Wall thickness and flow rate do go hand in hand , but lately I've found running my normal flow rates and then adjusting tolerances (usually within 0.2) has been a quicker and better work flow
Do you have a good tutorial to add Klipper to the Anet A8? I already have Octoprint/Klipper on my Pi 3 and it’s ready to go. So I guess now all I need is the firmware?
Klipper is really great on that way. All you need now is to get a firmware image for the mainboard in your Anet, flash it, then plug into your pin and you're good to go.
I don't own an Anet and not sure what board you're running but this config is setup for an Anet A8. The top portion of that config shows how to set up the image. If you need more help, want me to set up that image for you let me know. I'd double check your board first though just to be sure.
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you for the response. I’m working on it now & I think I got it figured out. Should have it up and running soon
Sounds great! Good luck.
I thought that @indyspud solution would be solve this but it didn't. I had this error:
"
23:19
SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard
23:19
SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard
23:19
Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000]
23:19
Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000]
23:17
Warming up for bed leveling
"
For me pasting "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" and removing the rest doesn't work.
I even tried comparing it with an example of my cura gcodes and pasting it on that gcode, but it doesn't work:
"
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=bed_temp VALUE=70
SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=extruder_temp VALUE=220
START_PRINT
"
EDIT: I found out the origin of my problem. It's related to the macro names. I also add the same problem on Cura Start Code settings which was confusing me a lot. So the problem was that I updated Cura and I've lost all my start code settings, and when I was aware of this I've changed it to just "start_print etc etc". Before trying the steps you show on the video, I didn't try out any print. Then I just came here and tried these steps, not figuring out that in my case it should be BED_TEMP and EXTRUDER_TEMP. My macros are different. Thanks anyways ;)
EDIT 2: I also add another problem. Actually that "Move out of range" problem came out from bad BL Touch calibration.
I have an E3 V2 that I’m considering Klipper for. It will be running on a Ubuntu laptop and I will be getting an accelerometer before I convert. The printer has a Micro Swiss NG extruder and hot end and a CR Touch bed leveling system. It has the 4.2.7 motherboard installed as well. Everything else is stock. I run Orca or Prusa Slicer (mostly Orca). What else do I need to consider? Thanks in advance!
That's a great question but it looks like you have most all of the bases covered. I would say one thing to consider is time. In my opinion Klipper is easy to navigate, but I don't know how intuitive it is initially. So you want to give yourself time to not only tune some of the newer settings for your printer that Klipper offers, but also to learn the ins and outs of Klipper. Things like how the front end works and consider you may need to retune some settings you've already calibrated in your slicer to optimize how Klipper works. If you make the jump and have questions let me know and I'd be happy to help where I can. You can also join the Discord, there's a lot of people there who have been using Klipper or have recently made the swap and they are also a great fount of information.
this video was nicely done, great info and explanation, thanks a lot Leo it is greatly appreciated .
Thanks Peter, all these calibrations really add up to creating excellent prints. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. These sort of comments really help me push out more and more videos. Thanks !
@@PrintsLeo3D absolutely , i couldn't agree more , im sure a lot more people will find your content helpful , i know i certainly did , im looking forward for your new videos , know that i will be supporting them too because they are well made , and they provide that helping hand on our 3D printing journey, i might even go ahead and finally get that dual Z axis for my S2 , cheers .
Peter 🙏 thanks so much, really kind words and great motivation for me. Happy to be bringing new content!
Great video! , i followed the steps, but what is confusing me is that the print starts from 0 to 0.09, my final result is somewhere between 0.05 to 0.055 so i kept it in the middle. I am using a sonic pad and an ender 3 s1 pro.
You're doing it the right way! That's exactly how you'd want to set it. If you wanted to be even more exact you could run another test:
have the start point be 0.05 and the end point be 0.06, and then set the step amount to 0.001
That will show you results at 0.051, 0.052, 0.053, etc all the way up to 0.06. This can help you narrow down exactly where you'd want to set it.
Aside from doing that extra test you're method is going about it the correct way. Thanks for watching!
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you, im testing it out
Great, good luck!
Do you may have time to make an vido about Bridging? I really can't find anything about it... I was typing to print this fancy loin but it comes out horrible every time and i cant really get the right settings
Bridging is tough. It can be dependent on cooling, speed, filament, temperature, etc. If you want to email with the model and what's going on I can try and help you from there. printsleo3d@gmail.com
Great Video, but....Can realdeuce be adapted for a delta style printer?
Thank you very much! So, I was pretty sure there was a section (under the BED option) that allowed you to choose between a rectangle and round bed. I just double checked and I am not seeing it now. That being the case I would then suggest trying Ellis' pressure advance test, because I know for a fact you can choose a round bed for that test (ellis3dp.com/Pressure_Linear_Advance_Tool/)
I don't use Ellis' test (now I use the test available directly fromOrcaSlicer) but I know their method is supposed to be a more accurate test, so you should get great results.
Thanks
very clear video, thank you so much.. one question: in cura there is a klipper plugin where you can set values for pressure advance.. I prefer the printer.cfg method.. but (yes there is always a but ;) there you can also set: Infill Pressure Advance, wall pressure advance, Outer and inner wall. top / bottom, initial layer and skirt/brim pressure advance.. Top and outer wall make sense.. but how would you calibrate all those?
Luc
Thanks for the comment and the info! I knew about the plugin for Cura but I didn't know it was that detailed! To be honest, if it was my printer, I wouldn't go through the time of calibrating pressure advances for all those different components. Remember pressure advance is not changing the 'amount' of material exiting the nozzle, it's just changing how that material is being distributed. For areas where your eye will never see (inner wall, bottom, skirt, brim) I would leave all of those advances the same value as whatever I set my overall Pressure advance to. There's something to be said for the pressure advance on top surfaces, but in general the flow% is what we use to control the look of top layers. So my advice would just use the same pressure advance for each of those features. I'm not even sure how Cura implements all the different values (I guess adds some SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE=X lines to the different sections of gcode?). If you wanted to tune those features you could run the lines test using whatever speed and accel metrics you use for those features (which can be found in Cura) and then find the best advance for each feature and plug it in. You'd also need to do this for each material. Ultimately I would do a single test and use it across all features. Hope this helps!
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks for your reply. Actually i was hoping, to solve a problem but it seems that it probably has nothing to do with it. my problem is on the inside ;-) i am printing lets say a bigger cube... like 15x15 cm... the first layer is really perfect.. after calibrating a few things, i never had so nice first layers... except... one thing. in the right bottom corner... there is the outer and the inner wall, perfect.. but where the lines start there is a one square mm hole.. like if it were there on purpose.. the second layer is again perfect and covers that hole... but the cube has that little hole in corner if you look at it on that side....but it has nothing to do with pressure advance as it still is there after configuration and when i turn it off completely.
Did you look at the Preview menu in Cura (after slicing the model) and see if that small gap is part of the print, as a defect perhaps?
@@PrintsLeo3D yes i did.. strange enough the preview is perfect.... as its a 9 hour print.. i have to wait until its finished.. but i will try to change the directions of the lines in the first layer by 90 degrees... if that doesnt work i will have to check the "magic numbers" maybe cura skips a line because as you also said in your video for pressure advance, if it cant divide the width by the line width in that angle.. it maybe skips a line.. and as it starts there the line is only 1 mm long.. but actually im not sure.. i was hoping it was a pressure advance issue..
Small tears across layers (which is probably different than what you're getting) are also often a result of acceleration that's too high, or consequently, temperatures that are too low.
This video helped me a lot! Thanks!
I'm glad to help, and I thank you for writing a comment to let me know it was helpful!
Thanks a lot , your videos are awesome 👌🏻🤓
Thanks Axel! Comments like this are what fuel the channel, and I appreciate you taking the time.
Hi if you ramp up the speed do you need to re adjust these PA"s also do you ever need to change the smooth time ?
You should put PA value not in the klipper.cfg, but in slicer material setting. Orca supports this natively, in PS you have to use Custom G-code in filament settings (like SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.02)
Alexey that is an option, and perhaps a great one for certain people. I tried to make this video, as all my others, for a wider audience and inputting the PA through a slicer can be difficult using Cura (last I checked anyway), and can lead to some issues if you are forgetful while slicing. Orca's ability to create multiple filament profiles and add a PA to each truly does make your recommendation a smart option. I am going to be making one (maybe more) follow up videos on not only different PA calibration techniques but also different ways to store the variable. Orca also has native PA calibration built right into the slicer, which makes the 14 minute calibration setup I go over in this video into a out a 30 second endeavor lol so there's always more to cover and I appreciate you mentioning this in the comments!
I agree with this in the most part as pressure advance will be different for each filament, but at the same time not all slicers make it easy to configure the PA value and you kind of have to do a compromise in firmware. With Klipper it is easier as it can be configured virtually on the fly, where Marlin is a little more complex.
I have used a few slicers, and as much as Orca is great for somethings, like entering the PA, I still end up going back to Cura, and like @PrintsLeo3D said, it is not a setting Cura takes into account.
My "fast" lines are always thinner than my slow lines. Do you have any idea what I'm possibly doing wrong here?
So the beginning and the end of the lines are wider, or 'fatter'? I would love to know a little more about the setup during testing. What material, speeds, printer, and temps are you working with?
Thank u a lot for helping with this topic)
Happy to add to the conversation about this. I love learning about these concepts and then being able to help get them out there!
You should do an video on input shaping and pressure advanced. But using a voron and superslicer.
Great suggestion! I am hoping on doing a few build projects later this year, and I am hoping a Voron is amongst them! I will probably be using OrcaSlicer though. I moved from Cura to Orca recently and have found it to be a great option. Luckily because Orca and SuperSlicer are nearly the same most of the info should be interchangeable. Not sure if SuperSlicer has the same built in calibrations available though, so I would need to look into that. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the recommendation.
Do I need to zero out the value I have already before testing for other materials? Or does the GCode override the existing value?
If you're using the page I linked it will zero out the pressure advance you're using. Most of the other methods(like OrcaSlicer) will do the same thing, which is to zero out the current value.
Nice work!
Thanks Jose, I hope this helps out! I appreciate taking the time to comment.
do i need to set it to 0 before calibrate? or left how it is in klipper? 0.12
Most all pressure advance tests will zero out whatever value you already have saved. If you're using the website I linked that's the case, so no need to make any changes beforehand 👍
Hi. I just did a test and non of the lines look good. Any tips to get this sorted ? thanks
Happy to help, but I'll probably need a little more information. Depending on how the lines look there are adjusts to make or some other fixes you can apply. The basic questions I have would be is this bowden or direct extrusion? What material are you using? What steps did you test within (i.e. .0 - 1.0 @0.05 steps or 0 - 0.1 @ 0.005). Ultimately I think email or Discord would be the best options to help fix this where I can get a look at some pictures. Either way get back to me with that info and I'll try and help.
@@PrintsLeo3D I will take some pictures and screenshots and will send them down. thx for your reply.
@@PrintsLeo3D what's is the email address I can contact you on? Thanks 🙏
printsleo3d@gmail.com
I was wondering if someone in the comments could correct me or at least point me in the right direction cuz I feel like I know I'm wrong. I've noticed on Aurora Tech channel and this channel that the pressure advances are typically .20 for example. When I use Orcaslicer Pressure Advance Calibration, I get a value of .020. How come you guys are playing around in the hundreds and mine is down in the thousands of a decimal point? Was wondering if someone could do a pressure advanced test on their orca slicer and see if they see somewhere results. Thanks everyone! Happy holidays that are coming up!
My current Klipper Pla PA setting is .024.
Hey David! I appreciate all the love you've been leaving in the comments ! The difference in those numbers would likely be due to the type of extrusion, one being direct extrude system and the other a bowden system.
When testing PA for a direct extruder we test from 0 to 0.1 and with bowden we test from 0 to 1.0. So it's basically moving the decimal point one spot to the left. The reason for this is just the to the longer retraction that is usually necessary for bowden extruders. Thus it will have a PA measures in tenths of a millimeter while the direct extender will have a PA measure in hundredths of a millimeter.
@@PrintsLeo3Dthank you sir
@PrintsLeo3D Hi Can you please help with this message from Klipper? Move exceeds maximum extrusion (5.775mm^2 vs 1.440mm^2). I have exported the G-code and have this issue. Printer will stop and not print anything. Probably safety reason. What can I change to avoid this issue? Thank you!
This is an extrusion based issue, and my guess would be it's because you are/aren't using relative extrusion values. Can you copy and paste your start gcode ?
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi. Here is the star_print macro: [gcode_macro START_PRINT]
gcode:
{% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(70)|float %}
{% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(220)|float %}
# Use absolute coordinates
G90
# Home the printer
G28
# Reset extruder
G92 E0
#BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE=deafult METHOD=automatic
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
# Move to wait position
G1 X0 Y0 Z30 F4000.0
# Move Z axis up
G1 Z2.0 F3000
# Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0
# Draw the first line
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15
# Move to the side
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0
# Draw the second line
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30
# Reset extruder
G92 E0
Thank you
My guess is this is an absolute(M82) vs relative extrusion(M83) issue. Are you downloading this print file from the website I linked ?
Great vids and well explained. Thank you!
Rob, thank you! I try and take time to make sure the explanation is through enough without being to dragged out. Not sure if I ever find the perfect ratio , but I try and get there lol Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment !
@@PrintsLeo3D Quite welcome! Your lessons are much needed as well - most of the Klipper vids are outdated or one's pause game needs to be unmatched. Plus, you are breaking the sections down which is better than the end user scrubbing through a 1.5 hour video look for that one section needed.
Hi, i have the Ender 3 S1 Pro and following this my most consistant lines were around the 0.06 and 0.07 which seems a little high?
That's really not all that high in my opinion. Different people you talk to refer to different 'metrics' as high. For direct drive some think above 0.02 is high, others think 0.1 is high. I'm of the opinion getting close to 0.1 (1.0 for Bowden) is a touch high, and you may want to look at your extruder to make sure it's working right. For your readings of 0.06-0.07 I wouldn't be all that concerned. It's on the higher side but I don't think you're in the 'danger zone' . I'd just keep calibrating (run a second test to see if you can hone in on a nice value between 0.06 and 0.07) and then use that. I would keep an eye on some prints, make sure it's not causing any print issues, but you'll probably be good. If anything you might even be able to lower your overall retraction after this.
@@PrintsLeo3D Cheers mnate, i re-rran the test between 0.06 and 0.09 and the best came out at 0.07
Awesome! Hope that value works well for you 👍 let me know how it goes
@@PrintsLeo3D Cheers mate, great channel by the way
Great lesson
Thank you so much! These calibrations can look tough at first but they really aren't that daunting, and they improve your print quality(and experience) so much! Sorry I was late to reply but I appreciate the comment!
Excellent explanation thank you.
Thank you so much! Does your name refer to the magic the gathering card?
If I have it configured in the printer config in Klipper, as well as the Cura setting, who wins? I’d guess Cura’s GCode file, but does anyone know with certainty?
çok detaylı ve basit bir anlatım ... çok teşekkür ederim. benim için çok değerli bilgiler öğrendim.
kardeş türk müsün
evet ustam..
@@Baran_Korkmaz
Nazik sözleriniz için teşekkür ederiz ve hem 3d baskı üzerinden bağlantı kurduğunuz için hem de bu kanal için teşekkür ederiz! Umarım ikinize de yazdırma konusunda iyi şanslar ve videolarımı bulduğunuz için müteşekkirim!
Hello, question, I cannot find my "start_print" or "print_start" in my fluid gcode, since only "cancel_print" appears, I tried putting "start_print" and "print_start", even if I couldn't do it and I get an error in all 3 cases , I don't know if I should put "cancel_print" which is the only thing I found in my gcode. What can I do in this case?
It’s in on ur slicer
I can not get my extruder to stop skipping. Any ideas?
Peter is it just during this test or is it happen while normally printing? My first guess would be to check the temperature settings, and make sure they are being passed to the printer properly.
@@PrintsLeo3D It was only during the test but crazy as it is, it turned out to be the bowden tube itself. Thanks for your reply, and your videos
Glad you were able to diagnose it, and I'm happy to lend an ear when I can't directly help.
Hi there Leo and all, I just done a fantastic PETG Neo-Green print of a Delta printer Spool Unit for my FL Sun QQ-S Pro 3D Printer and a two part piece Sun Lu Mounting Bracket to hold their nice S1 Filament Dryer Box Unit on top of the Frame of the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max all done on the Neptune 3 Max huge 400 x 400 mm bed.
These are the most smooth amazing well done prints I ever got!
I must have got the lovely Sun Lu PETG filament really dialed in? Their PETG filament is really some of the best filament I've tried and I tried many different brands.
And Sun Lu I see is having a big 10th year sale on their filaments now. Like me you go and get a bargain.
I not sponsored by them, I just like their PETG filament and thought you may too?
The details are on the details of the video I done of the printing finishing on the Max.
Hope you all like it? 😉 link below.
ua-cam.com/video/J6LKQmUk3y4/v-deo.html
You weren't lying that color is amazing! Print looks like it's coming out really nice too! I have had some decent results with the SunLu filaments I've used. Usually the issue has always been their customer service, but the filament has always been pretty good. You're right they are always offering some deals too, so maybe I should check out their website and see what they have lol I have been enjoying buying my filament in bulk from iiiDMax 3D, but I know people outside of the USA can't purchase them. Thanks for the heads up, it's a great color, and is printing nice, especially for PETG!!
@@PrintsLeo3D Hey Leo, I am Pleased you liked the print! The only one of their filament I've been having problems with sofar is the New PLA+ bright Yellow.
I've tried 4 times to print with it on the Neptune 3 and each time no matter the flow rate or the heat settings it just keep's blocking in the head?
The hot end in the Neptune 3 is a All Metal Throat tube I fitted to the printer to help with the higher temp prints!
At the moment the max temp it can do is still set to 260 C as the original set up.
But I may update the hot end fully to be a 300 C one if the firmware can support it?
I will have to check with Elegoo about it?
I may try to print the picky PLA+ Bright Yellow by Sun Lu on the Aquila. Because it has been upgraded with a full metal hot end as you know? The one odd thing I found out about the Aquila all metal hot end is, when I am printing any PLA or PETG with it, I have to set the flow rate of the filament to 20% only even at normal printing temps!
If I don't the filament pours out the nozzle and expands like foaming seal does.
I tried many filament brands and settings but each time it goes nuts expanding to over twice the volume and blocking up the hot end. Must be something to do with the way the hot end is set up inside?
I write on the lids of the filament boxes all the settings needed I found after testing for each printer, since they all do it different.
The PETG Neo Green prints I got did not sit in a dry box while printing that 27 hours so the fact it was stable all that time is amazing moisture wise. it is still late summer here in the UK, so it can get warm in the room from also the bed heat. I normally put the filament in a S1 Sun Lu Dryer on the Aquila or the Neptune 3, I going to try to buy a S2 Sun Lu high temp LCD fronted dryer bx to sit up above the Neptune 3 Max, Hence the reason to print the bracket for that. I be joining your discord soon so be easier to talk and share the prints. Later Leo. 😁
Hi Leo Again, I thought I tell you that I wen't on to the Web site of BTT and as I said they got their stuff on Sale,
I ordered their Pad 7 Klipper unit and it costing me only £109.00p which even in the UK for that unit is just amazing when on Amazon UK it is around £159.00p So at least a £50 saving right there.
The Pad 7 be here within 7 days they said?
So that's a bargain big time. Hopefully I will learn how to use it to control the Elegoo Neptune 3 & maybe at the same time the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max since they both from the same company and it states up to 4 printers controlled.
Have you covered how to sort out the control by this pad 7 on the Elegoo FDM printers yet? I not any chance you do so soon? Thanks 😁
@colincampbell3679 I actually have the Pad 7 sitting in a box in my basement right now lol the pad and some great Klipper calibrations are what are on the docket next!
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi Leo, I've at long last just got the Big Tree Tech Pad 7 unit. Boy was this a huge trouble getting it?
I ordered it back on the 29th August 2023 direct from the web site of BTT. because they had it on sale, a saving of £50 on the Amazon UK one.
They said it be a 7 day delivery due to it coming from Germany in the EU. as that was the one I picked as the closest outlet of theirs!
I tracked it from there then over to the UK where UK Customs checked it through then it got to two towns away from me where they had it in a parcel force ( royal mail ) depot.
And there it sat not being delivered. I looked at the tracking and it said "Exception" but no note saying what that means?
I waited and waited and still it sat there. then about a week after it was meant to have been delivered, they sent a post letter telling me they were holding the parcel until I paid them a customs fee they had paid on my behalf to the UK customs. So I had to pay a £33 fee just to get the parcel released
( so much for the saving I had got when I brought it )
I paid it and then after the confirm of the payment I still did not receive it.
I telephoned them, but got a auto help thing which I picked the re-delivery option. but still it sat there.
I had about my fill of all this trouble, so I wrote the royal mail a complaint email with all the details needed?
Then later about another week on they emailed me and told me that the parcel was still not paid for? even though I had the receipt email.
They also said that I had paid the wrong company the one I was to pay was the Parcel Force not the Royal Mail. seems although I had known them as two parts of one company for years, Now they had split up in to two companies even though they look as one?
So I had to now pay again to the Parcel Force part for the customs fee and the royal mail part is now just paying back the fee I sent them by mistake.
and once the fee was paid they just delivered the parcel almost one month late yesterday. And here's the real thing about this,
I found out that the rules of this import tax thing state that if the parcel costs less than £135 you don't even have to pay the import fee
( the EU is the one this fee is only for ) My parcel costs £109 so why did they even have to charge the fee?
I will now have to chase up the HMRC ( our tax and customs in the UK )
( I will from now on not order from the EU based depots so not to pay the customs as it only for the orders from there )
to get back that fee I should not have had to have paid? Why me, every time I have troubles with all the stuff.
Anyway I have the pad 7 now comes the hard part set up since there is no instructions in the box.
I know there is channels on youtube about this set up, but I still going to have a hard time setting it up!
I hoping you do a nice set by set help set up for it soon? And after me asking Elegoo to help sort out a new firm ware for my Elegoo Neptune 3 Max so I could get 300 c all metal hot end installed they told me They will not do one and I should not do any upgrading like that to the printer?
Now I just seen they have released two new FDM printers, a Neptune 4 Plus Klipper version. and a Neptune 4 Max klipper version with the 300 c all metal hot end.
The very type of set up I needed my Neptune 3 Max to have? so unfair. I not buying it again, that's why I need to set up my pad 7 to do the faster klipper printing on the max I have?
Cool video, but what about smooth time? Nobody's talking about it. How to tune it? What is it:P
Smooth time is not something I have spent a ton of time tweaking , as from what I mostly read, there are diminishing returns with the amount of time you'd be sinking in.
As pressure advance is enabled the extruder may be making sudden speed changes, to counteract that Klipper implements that smooth time. The value indicates the window of time that Klipper will take to smooth out those possible extruder velocity changes. If the value is too low it's possibly the extruder can miss steps. If the value is too high they you would be missing out on some of the PA benefits and get rounded off corners. It's something Kevin O'Connor himself has said "rarely requires tuning [from the default]" so it wasn't something I wanted to spend too much time on.
If you did want to check out a tuning calibration for it then you could run the method #1 test cube, and you would sub in "smooth_time" as the parameter. Then use a starting value of "0.101" and a factor of "0.002".
Hope this helps!
I have a direct drive Ender 3 v3 SE, I tested from 0 to 0.1 as suggested, but none of my lines were connected. Is it safe to test higher values or does it indicate that another setting needs looking at?
Great question! If that was my printer I would look into other issues before I continued with pressure advance, but also I would want to clarify what the lines look like.
It can be possible you aren't extrusing enough for the test to give a very accurate result. Have you calcukayed the correct rotation values for your extruder ?
Let me know and we can keep diagnosing it.
@@PrintsLeo3D I printed the the pressure advance tower and ended up with a value of 0.17. Yet to do a test print. My rotation is set at about 7.54 and flow is at 97.5
Does 0.17 sound reasonable or crazy high?
That rotation distance and flow sound on par. You don't have a Bowden system to contend with so I don't know why you'd have a higher than normal PA, but give that a test print and see how it does. This isn't silk filament is it?
@@PrintsLeo3D no I am running PLA+ at a temp of 205
Que excelente video, muy bien explicado y eso que utilice subtítulos traducidos, muchas gracias, lo pondré en práctica.
¡Muchas gracias! Me alegra que estos videos se puedan disfrutar en otros idiomas además del inglés. Cuanta más gente pueda ayudar, mejor. ¡Gracias por ver!
Hi great video, I've used the Ellies method before and thought I'd try this out. However I cannot get a good result, the best is around 0.4 and I've tried ranges from 0.3-0.5 but I have some 'bulging' on the right side of the lines. What types of things can affect this? I have an ender 3v2 with bi-metal hot-end and I have already configured input shaping. thanks.
Hey Marcos. There's a lot of small things that can affect the outside of your models. If you done the proper PA and Input shaping calibrations I would look at your slicer settings. What's the line width for your walls set to? Are you using any dynamic speed adjustments? Is this across many filament types/brands? Ultimately this may be something we can resolve better through email so I can see exactly the sort of issues your experiencing.
Hope this helps a little, maybe get you started looking at the right area.
Also I was just thinking with a PA value that is fluctuationing is it possible there's some sort of pre nozzle problem. Loose Bowden tube? Extruder gear that's beginning to be ground away? Something like that.
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks Leo, I appreciate the response... sorry I wasn't very clear, but when I meant I'm not getting a good result I meant in the lines test printed in your video. Every line shows some type of blobbing or under extrusion. my extruder gears seem fine and the Bowden tube is fitted tight I have a bi-metal heartbreak so the Bowden tube goes up against that.
What type of extruder/printer combo are you using? Also what is your current retraction set to?
And why are you not applying the PA value via a setting / start-gcode command in the filament properties of your slicer?
That's not a bad option at all. I just wanted to give people a general overview of the process, how it works, and what it's function is. Adding the different slicers and how to set them up was going to increase the length of an already long video. My goal was to get people informed and up and running with PA. I think there's a few ways to implement it and the best would probably be whatever works for you.
Great Video Thanks
Thanks and I hope it helped! I appreciate the view and the comment 😁
Amazing video thank you so much.
You're very welcome! Happy to here this helped, and thanks for letting me know!
@PrintsLeo3D seriously though, I tried a standard adxl345 and made all the connections but couldn't get the chip to communicate properly, then I tried the btt345 and there was nothing on that. I was then introduced to KUSBA and was looking through your videos and found this. Got it set up first go. Now I'm working on my other 2 printers!
Super, super, super!!!
Thank you!!! Hoping this leads you to better prints!
Hell yea
Thanks Paul! Always anxious releasing a new video, just hoping this helps!
Nice
Thanks! Hope this helped !
With bowden it's very obvious your retraction is too low at 1mm you can see the stringing on.your bench, increase it to a better value for bowden
el mio quedo mal de principio a fin
Often when that's the issue it's because you may not be using the correct step values. Make sure to double check the extruder setup and use either 0.1 as an end figure or 1.0 accordingly
Love me some blue smilie emoji! Thanks for watching!
Hooks law.... Captain shook is shown ha ha
Lol I wasn't sure if anyone would notice it
thx for the video but i woundring if you know why i get this up when i try to print a test?
Error evaluating 'gcode_macro PRINT_START:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'BED_TEMP'
That's Klipper telling you there's something in your start code that is not be defined, for this instance it's the variable BED_TEMP. You're likely passing the hot end and bed temp values from your slicer, using variables like HOT END and BED_TEMP. The slicer popilayes those variables for you but a simple website like Ellis' or the pressure advance website I show in this video will not pass those variables. So you will need to amend your start_print macro when using these websites. Just comment out any section that is using passed variables and set them all through the website only.