I love how good ideas spread around the world, inspire people and contribute to betterment ... and some known names pop up: Rob Renzetti, Stefan Gotteswinter, and Vik Rivers :)
Beautiful, Kent! I made a toolpost riser for my minilathe cnc conversion a couple of weeks ago and I'm wishing I'd seen your video beforehand now. The backstop with the setscrews is a great idea to further enhance the rigidity that eliminating the compound slide brings. Almost makes me want to take my design back to the drawing board!
Hi Steven, wish I could take credit for that idea, but it's inspired by Robin's design. It might be better to have the set screws in line with the tool post stud so the set screws don't pivot the quick change. I considered creating three 0.5mm high pads on the bottom, to help insure the mount sits well, but these can be added later if needed. Sure would be nice to have access to a surface grinder because a block this large takes a lot of work with sandpaper and surface plate to smooth out. Best wishes, Kent
Yes, I recall you credited those that inspired you in the video. Of course there's very few truly fresh ideas but it sounds like you've got some ideas for enhancements. Solid execution however! Clearly a lot of work gone into the finish. It's inspiring to see such attention to detail. It's another win for thread mills. Are you a thread mill salesman on the side? Every time I watch one of your videos I end up thinking I should buy some.
Not a salesman nor do I have any affiliation :) Just trying to show some alternatives because I always wondered about the too. Easy to use because no special hardware is needed like with rigid tapping. I ordered mine from Lakeshore Carbide. Threadmillsare unfortunately expensive, but with care I hope they last a long time. If you find alternatives please let me know.
I have an old EMCO Compact 8 that is very similar to your lathe. I really like the solid tool post mount you made. I may try to do something similar myself. It wouldn't turn out as nice as yours though, that is for sure! Very nicely done!
Thank you. Like a finishing carpenter can hide a lot of flaws... so can lots of sanding. The solid tool post works great, especially with parting. If redoing, I would raise the height 1/4" or so. I set the height based on the tools I had, but after obtaining an Aloris toolpost mounted drill chuck found the height to be low. Shiming works to use the drill chuck, but it's pretty ugly. Best of success to you!
@@kentvandervelden thanks for the tips! If you have time, take a look at my UA-cam home page under the Community tab and scroll down to the bottom of the page where I have some restoration photos of my EMCO and take a look at it. It looks to be made a whole lot like yours! I'd love to be set up like you are with your CNC gear...I'd be making some awesome fishing reels 😁
Gracias. Works great, but I still use my lathe mostly manually, and there are times when I would like to angle the tool a little. Regardless, I have not remounted the compound.
We do not have a SouthBend lathe but we like the principle of your tool post redesign. Love the education of the threading types wiggle differences. The Gray Iron Class 20? is nice to cut messy, we enjoy you machining that. material type. We like your videos as we are here to learn thank you.
Thank you for your support. I think that is the same material. Here's the link the to the material that I purchased. www.mcmaster.com/8923k33 It's more than what I needed but thought my dad might like one made for him. The thread mills are really nice. If not for the cost, they could be easily recommended.
Nice new camera angle (Slight Dutch Tilt), great lighting, quality image. I should design a simple part and you should machine it so we can do a colab in January.
Great to hear from you Bill! Maybe check if Billy Dirks has a kit to help get started. He made the mechanics for my lathe. (www.bdtoolsusa.com/) I've been saying for a while, but I plan to finally copy your mill enclosure this winter. Any recommendations or gotchas to watch out for? Thank you
Nice but I question the lack of rotation on the tool post. I have a rigid tool block as well but I'm changing the angle of the block all the time for chamfers, reaching into holes, ect. Having my tool post stuck at 90 degrees would drive me crazy.
I think it's a testament to your videos, that I--a non-machinest--am starting to understand what you're doing. For example, I knew you would make it out of cast iron because of the vibration damping. Freshman engineering 170 would have made a lot more sense if you had taught it. ;) See you this March?
Hi David, thank you! I picked up the cast iron etchant and enhancer to show the spheroidal vs. flake carbon, and I'd like to make a video about that. Would be nice to measure the vibration absorption difference. I found a couple relevant papers but not sure I can reproduce the measurements. MRRF2019 in March for sure. I'll buy dinner this year :)
@@kentvandervelden Give a call to AvE about that and see what he can add--as a suggestion. You might even reach out to beyond the press, as they have a lot of professional machining experience. Maybe even This Old Tony? Glad to hear about March! You may have to fight over the check, though. ;)
That's an great question that deserves a full follow up video. Since one can interpolate easily with CNC, there's been no problem. I also use fewer tools now after standardizing on a few inserts. I did make a broaching tool today from hss blank and that I needed to be tilted, but enough tilt was possible in the tool holder. I think even without CNC, a solid tool post combined with certain tools would eliminate need to tweak the angle. I use the large infrequently, so having consistency is important. Check out Robin R.'s, link in the description. He's the master and I'm pretty sure his lathe is manual. Hope this was helpful to you.
Thank you, sure has helped with parting tools. All the Aloris tool holders I have work fine, except their drill chuck, which needs a 1/8" spacer. I didn't have the drill chuck when I made the tool post. So far, have not missed the compound.
@@kentvandervelden Hi Kent, thank you so very much for the offer. I have Grizzly G0768 so I don't think we have the same lathe. But again, your offer is very generous. Take Care, Bruce
Drop me an email and we'll discuss. Dimensions depend on lathe and tool holder model. Cost is pretty high, but worth it, at least compared to the compound I had. I would change a few things on the next one. I like the shininess too :) Ra is just under 3 uin.
Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1 If anyone would like the solid model files, please ask. They may not help with any lathe other than the SB1001, but maybe. Or there is an interest in seeing feeds-speeds, I could look into sharing a Fusion360 folder.
It looks like a great design. I just wish there was less video on the mundane drilling and machining (anybody who would want to add such to their lathe knows that stuff) and more views and details of the block design itself.
The way you mentioned all the sources of your inspiration really speaks for your approach!
Hi, sehr interessant und schöne Arbeit!
I love how good ideas spread around the world, inspire people and contribute to betterment ... and some known names pop up: Rob Renzetti, Stefan Gotteswinter, and Vik Rivers :)
Standing on shoulders of Giants :)
I thoroughly enjoyed your presentation of sources of movement and solutions to mitigate it and bring solidness to cutting. Thank you!
Beautiful, Kent! I made a toolpost riser for my minilathe cnc conversion a couple of weeks ago and I'm wishing I'd seen your video beforehand now. The backstop with the setscrews is a great idea to further enhance the rigidity that eliminating the compound slide brings. Almost makes me want to take my design back to the drawing board!
Hi Steven, wish I could take credit for that idea, but it's inspired by Robin's design. It might be better to have the set screws in line with the tool post stud so the set screws don't pivot the quick change. I considered creating three 0.5mm high pads on the bottom, to help insure the mount sits well, but these can be added later if needed. Sure would be nice to have access to a surface grinder because a block this large takes a lot of work with sandpaper and surface plate to smooth out. Best wishes, Kent
Yes, I recall you credited those that inspired you in the video. Of course there's very few truly fresh ideas but it sounds like you've got some ideas for enhancements. Solid execution however! Clearly a lot of work gone into the finish. It's inspiring to see such attention to detail.
It's another win for thread mills. Are you a thread mill salesman on the side? Every time I watch one of your videos I end up thinking I should buy some.
Not a salesman nor do I have any affiliation :) Just trying to show some alternatives because I always wondered about the too. Easy to use because no special hardware is needed like with rigid tapping. I ordered mine from Lakeshore Carbide. Threadmillsare unfortunately expensive, but with care I hope they last a long time. If you find alternatives please let me know.
Very nicely done. Looking forward to seeing how the tool post works out for turning the pulleys.
(Solid) work as always Kent! Thank you for the mention.
I have an old EMCO Compact 8 that is very similar to your lathe. I really like the solid tool post mount you made. I may try to do something similar myself. It wouldn't turn out as nice as yours though, that is for sure! Very nicely done!
Thank you. Like a finishing carpenter can hide a lot of flaws... so can lots of sanding. The solid tool post works great, especially with parting. If redoing, I would raise the height 1/4" or so. I set the height based on the tools I had, but after obtaining an Aloris toolpost mounted drill chuck found the height to be low. Shiming works to use the drill chuck, but it's pretty ugly. Best of success to you!
@@kentvandervelden thanks for the tips! If you have time, take a look at my UA-cam home page under the Community tab and scroll down to the bottom of the page where I have some restoration photos of my EMCO and take a look at it. It looks to be made a whole lot like yours! I'd love to be set up like you are with your CNC gear...I'd be making some awesome fishing reels 😁
i think its awesome ;) well done on machining and finishes. looks really pretty.
Thank you Fox! The danger of adding something shiny: everything else looks dingy.
Another very informative video..Thanks for your effort Kent
Hi Turgay! Thank you
@@kentvandervelden Hi Kent ..you are going well budy..👍🤗
Good stuff Kent! Thanks for documenting that
Very good job on this modification
Gracias. Works great, but I still use my lathe mostly manually, and there are times when I would like to angle the tool a little. Regardless, I have not remounted the compound.
We do not have a SouthBend lathe but we like the principle of your tool post redesign. Love the education of the threading types wiggle differences. The Gray Iron Class 20? is nice to cut messy, we enjoy you machining that. material type. We like your videos as we are here to learn thank you.
Thank you for your support. I think that is the same material. Here's the link the to the material that I purchased. www.mcmaster.com/8923k33 It's more than what I needed but thought my dad might like one made for him. The thread mills are really nice. If not for the cost, they could be easily recommended.
Nice new camera angle (Slight Dutch Tilt), great lighting, quality image. I should design a simple part and you should machine it so we can do a colab in January.
Nice. That is on my list for my grizzly when I convert that over to CNC.....someday.
Great to hear from you Bill! Maybe check if Billy Dirks has a kit to help get started. He made the mechanics for my lathe. (www.bdtoolsusa.com/) I've been saying for a while, but I plan to finally copy your mill enclosure this winter. Any recommendations or gotchas to watch out for? Thank you
Nice but I question the lack of rotation on the tool post. I have a rigid tool
block as well but I'm changing the angle of the block all the time for chamfers, reaching into holes, ect. Having my tool post stuck at 90 degrees would drive me crazy.
I agree, otherwise it looks great!
Very nice
I think it's a testament to your videos, that I--a non-machinest--am starting to understand what you're doing. For example, I knew you would make it out of cast iron because of the vibration damping. Freshman engineering 170 would have made a lot more sense if you had taught it. ;) See you this March?
Hi David, thank you! I picked up the cast iron etchant and enhancer to show the spheroidal vs. flake carbon, and I'd like to make a video about that. Would be nice to measure the vibration absorption difference. I found a couple relevant papers but not sure I can reproduce the measurements. MRRF2019 in March for sure. I'll buy dinner this year :)
@@kentvandervelden Give a call to AvE about that and see what he can add--as a suggestion. You might even reach out to beyond the press, as they have a lot of professional machining experience. Maybe even This Old Tony? Glad to hear about March! You may have to fight over the check, though. ;)
With no ability to rotate the toolpost, does this impose a constraint on what or how things are done, or does tool selection decide that?
That's an great question that deserves a full follow up video. Since one can interpolate easily with CNC, there's been no problem. I also use fewer tools now after standardizing on a few inserts. I did make a broaching tool today from hss blank and that I needed to be tilted, but enough tilt was possible in the tool holder. I think even without CNC, a solid tool post combined with certain tools would eliminate need to tweak the angle. I use the large infrequently, so having consistency is important. Check out Robin R.'s, link in the description. He's the master and I'm pretty sure his lathe is manual. Hope this was helpful to you.
great job.
Thank you, sure has helped with parting tools. All the Aloris tool holders I have work fine, except their drill chuck, which needs a 1/8" spacer. I didn't have the drill chuck when I made the tool post. So far, have not missed the compound.
@@kentvandervelden Thank you so much for the reply and the advise on the drill chuck. When I do mine, I will have to check this out.
We probably don't have the same lathe, but if it would help, I'd be glad to share the model files.
@@kentvandervelden Hi Kent, thank you so very much for the offer. I have Grizzly G0768 so I don't think we have the same lathe. But again, your offer is very generous. Take Care, Bruce
I'll buy if you make and sell these :P nice work, very pretty and shiny
Drop me an email and we'll discuss. Dimensions depend on lathe and tool holder model. Cost is pretty high, but worth it, at least compared to the compound I had. I would change a few things on the next one. I like the shininess too :) Ra is just under 3 uin.
Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1
If anyone would like the solid model files, please ask. They may not help with any lathe other than the SB1001, but maybe. Or there is an interest in seeing feeds-speeds, I could look into sharing a Fusion360 folder.
It looks like a great design. I just wish there was less video on the mundane drilling and machining (anybody who would want to add such to their lathe knows that stuff) and more views and details of the block design itself.
Agreed, good point. Also, the more that can be edited out, the faster editing goes. For this video, what bits of the machining would you have left in?
nice
On whom is the compound flexxxin on?
Not sure. Glad I made the switch though. Works great.