Emco Super 11 - Tailstock, Guarding and Solid tool post
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 тра 2019
- More informations and pictures on the guards and the solid toolpost:
gtwr.de/shop/pro_emco/waycover...
Robin Renzettis Videos on the solid tool post and the guards on his HLVL:
• THE SOLID TOOL POST MOUNT
• Custom guarding on the...
Web:
gtwr.de/
Instagram:
/ stefan_gtwr
#practitioner_of_the_mechanical_arts - Наука та технологія
Stefan you forgot to mention who showed you how to test Tail Stocks that way. I want you to teach what I taught you, but please give me credit when it is due. You did mention me in your scraping info that was almost word for word of how I explained it to you.
Yes! Sorry, forgot it this time - Absolutely right, that is where I learned it.
Egotist much?
@chris0tube Chris, With all due respect this was not a rebuild video, it was a technique used to test tail-stock height. to the head-stock. I have been using this technique for 50+ years and it works for a quick test. I also use it when showing new machine builders how to do it. I have the experience and credentials to recommend it. As another famous you tuber told me. There is always a person looking to complain.
@chris0tube I think you are incorrect and to the readers please overlook one complaint from an unknown person and appreciate proven facts and advice from proven Journeymen. There are different strokes for different folks. Stefan states he is using the test to check the height and side to side.
@chris0tube No use dude. He's determined that all his knowledge is better than the the evidence that you provide. Note how he attacks your credibility instead of refuting the argument, a sure sign of being unable to refute the point. It's sad to see someone get so full of themselves they are either incapable or unwilling to learn anymore.
Looks like Emco had full Renzetti-Gotteswinter-treatment😁
Very nice job Stefan!
Excellent tailstock maintenance, and modifications. Good tip on tailstock alignment, and bias to the front.
Good to hear "Aluminium" being pronounced correctly, your English is excellent, especially technical English.
Many thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
Thank you very much for your videos Stefan. It´s amazing to see how smart you are and how you use your gear. I saw you in This Old Tony videos and love to watch you too. Best regards und schöne Grüße ;)
this machine is still the most gorgeous little lathe on youtube, and so quiet!! i will never get tired of it turning so effortlessly
Hi Stefan. Your videos are very inspiring. You have a very workmanlike approach with no BS which is about as old school as you can get and most refreshing. I have had an Emco S11 since new and but have never come close to the kind of work you do. I am approaching the whole thing with renewed vigor since finding your channel.
Hi Stefan, thank you for taking the time to make videos for us. I enjoy them very much :)
Thanks Stefan. That lathe is looking good. Definitely some great upgrades. Cant beat the full leather covers.
Thanks Steve!
That's a very nice, clean looking Emco lathe you have there Stefan. Many great ideas that I may have to adopt and use on my own machine. Keep up the great work. Cheers, Aaron.
Well done Stefan, nice little tutorial, it is always nice to see how you go about a task and explain your methodology. Impressive tool post mount makes me envious! Cheers!
I really love what you've done with this machine and all the other ones in your shop!
great job Stefan , I love the way you worked on making sure you have the best coverage possible on the ways .. ENJOYED !!
Love them lathe mods, Stefan😊. The work you do as always is exquisite. Thanks for the video
👍😁👍.
Congrats Stefan! It's looking very nice.
btw.. I really liked the rack n pinion on your last lathe.. it made it more of a civilized tailstock.
You are very generous with your knowledge, thank you very much.
Beautiful work Stefan. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video
Love the upgraded lathe features
Great work on the solid tool post buddy! Very Nice!
I have this machine so for me this video was solid gold. Thanks!
When I got my new (Emma's old) Multifix, I made a hold down bolt for it with a bit of "eye poker" on it to mount a camera. I never thought about indicators. Thanks for the tip!
What a great looking shop you have.
Very nice video! I just aquired a Super 11 which I learned on in 1990 when I was an apprentice. It was brand new at the time. After 30 years I was lucky to get it and an FB2 mill for $400. I have stripped the lathe to have resprayed as lived in a tough environment with the previous owner and hope to make more presentable. In a few months will go to strip and bring mill to my workshop. :)
Un gran trabajo y muy buenas ideas, tengo un EMCO SUPER 11 CD ( el de color rojo) iré realizando sus mejoras poco a poco, muchas gracias por compartir sus ideas.
Un saludo desde España!
That EMCO is one of the cleanest lathe ever. That looks like a machine that I will like to own.
Stefan, thanks for the update on the lathe, great stuff as usual. Craig
Good English Stefan....you make it easy to understand what you are saying. Thanks for all the tips.
Nice updates Stefan. I have the slightly smaller Maximat V10P and I will be adopting some of your ideas. Dean Bristow.
great video discussion / demonstration / build
Thank you sir, a learning experience as skways.
I like the solid tool post. They really do increase the rigidity of the tooling. For the most part I have found that unless you are doing threading or controlling length of cut in the Z axis the compound is more of a hinderance than a help. The X axis cover greatly help with keeping chips and that away from the Glass Scale. Now all you need is a vertical slide and you have a minature Boring Mill
That solid tool post is a thing of beauty.
I just made this solid tool post. Thank you, robrenz, and Kent VanderVelden for the inspiration. You guys are really incredible.
Hi! Are there drawings for the solid tool post 😀
@@kennarnett8220 my build is for a southbend 8k lathe. www.reddit.com/r/Machinists/comments/ixessm/finally_ditched_my_compound_photos/? if you still want drawings pm me and I’ll make it happen.
@@areospike uh, yes. How do I PM?
@@kennarnett8220 log in to Reddit and message me there.
Just fantastic, I learn so much from your excellent presentations. 👍🔭🔬🎷🇦🇺
Beautiful work!
Thank you Stefan, brilliant idea!
Hi Stefan. Thanks for the tailstock alignment tip. It will be very usefull on my lathe.
Nice additions.
Thanks for the video.
16:42 "Oh, by the way, I have this custom cover plate that fits perfectly." Wow!
Lol, thats the magic of cad,lasercutting and nice bending :D
The scale and read head layout is neat, and the soft covers and steel armour is a tidy setup. Well thought out👍👌🇦🇺
Hey nice to see this update, Lance & Patrick.
Nice cross slide cover, wow leather now that is nice work Stefan. Also a nice tool post, time to build your own machinery? this could be enjoyable to watch.
Lance & Patrick.
Thanks for the informative video Stefan.
Steve
Thanks for detailing the tailstock alignment procedure. Certainly a lot easier than turning between centres and measuring both ends. That's always a tiresome and indirect method.
Cheers,
Mark Presling
One thing you could do instead of the eye poker on top of the tool post: Make a tool-holder for the eye poker. This saves you a poked eye and makes it easier to get around the work while still allowing easy adding of an indicator. My indicator just lives on the toolholder/eyepoker thing so probably faster.
I went with this solution since I often have to get magnification close to the work on very small parts and getting a microscope in there while the eye poker is in is just a pain.
My thoughts exactly
Nice looking set up !
Thanks for sharing, as usual, you do not disappoint. I always appreciate the fact that you offer a different perspective, an item of great value. Thank you Sir!
Your lathe mods are coming along well . Cheers .
Bought a new tailstock and did all this last Friday. Took 5 hours (ground the tailstock base as well)
Dangit you guys are pressuring me into my own solid tool post mount now!!
I am really interested in the double tool post arrangement. I am going to look into fabricating one for my Atlas 10F. Thanks for the idea!
Enjoyed that thank you. Gave me plenty of ideas for my lathe. Watch out for the eye poker!
EVERY MACHINE NEEDS AN EYE POKER! 🤣
Thanks for showing the tailstock alignment, now I can see how far off my previous attempt was doing something else.
Making a great little lathe fantastic! I wish we had a place in the US that would cut and bend like that....
Stefan you have a real nice second operation Lathe now veary nice work well done . 🙌
Still looking for a nice cnc lathe ;) Until then thats my main lathe ;)
I'm surprised Emco hasn't asked for drawings so they can make your mods a factory option.
Jim's videos robin renzetti will want a cut. Lol
Emco was done making small machines decades ago. Not enough money in it for them with the entry of the Chinese.
@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 This Lathe later was redesigned and labeled as the Super11CD. It had a headstock & Cabinet sheet metal change . It was powder coated a light gray color, as was the back splash guard. The left base Cabinet was black and the right where the electronics base & doors were painted with red powder paint. The CD version was sold with the Base & back Chip guard integral instead of optionally. The Lathe was still offered with 2 spindle bore diameters. The larger spindle had a 1.375 bore which allowed for a optional 5C collet closer with a D1-4 Cam-Loc mount spindle.
I bought one in 2001 which was ordered as single phase motor but was surprised when found that they were shipped with 3 Phase motors with a expensive Digital inverter mounted on the back right Cabinet. I used a 50 amp dryer outlet for power.
This machine was later upgraded again with variable speed spindle control revised sheet metal & rear splash guard and called the EMCOMAT 14D and could be ordered with a Digital DRO factory installed. Unfortunately the price has climbed to nearly $20,000. today. A beautifully made, high precision Lathe made to a quality not to a price point.
Literally no one:
Stefan: “Lets get this to one nanometer tolerance”
I like how you included footage of you getting bitten by the C-clip
I like your alignment tip !
Awesome!
Stefan, I found you by way of ToT and I must admit (sorry Tony) I enjoy your videos even more! You both do amazing and entertaining work, but there's something so enjoyable about your videos. Like a great man once said: "I love hard work, I could watch it all day".
I'm currently looking at a career change into precision machining - and you're partly to blame for that!
Excellent!!!
Hi Stefan, Great work, great vid and great explanation, TFS oh and great lathe. G :)
I chuck up a test indicator in the jaws and spin the tailstock bore to adjust it , just fast and simple for me. Im not sure if the id and od are concentric on the tailstock quill.
"...ancient grease. Not to be confused with ancient Greek." Although the two may sometimes smell the same.... Ta dum tish!
And they say Germans don't have humour..
What grease did you use on the tailstock, please?
@@BartolomeoPestalozzi444 That made me LOL!
Greek fire.
Very nice setup now.
Thanks Randy!
great videos, keep it up :D
Nice work, i like the mods .
Beautiful machine. I love how clean and extremely well maintained all your equipment is.
Stephan, have you heard of Kawasaki precision drill chucks? I came across one at a market for $1.50 lol
It is keyless 10mm zero close jaws. Seems to be very high Japanese quality. But it’s quite weird. Both top and bottom halves turn in the same direction. It works but I’m sure that I’m doing something incorrect using it and don’t want to damage it. I can’t really find any info on it apart from the company. I was wondering if you knew what I’m on about. Thanks. Matt
Gday mate! Emco is looking gorgeous!
I’ve a question on the tailstock, I would have thought that it would flex further at full stick-out.
With your discussion of the taper alignment would it be closer if you were to align the tailstock on minimum extension(most rigid) so that it then sticks forward of the centre the minor amount
By being level at full stick out I think this is possibly the reverse of the desired outcome?
Cheers
Also, this assumes the taper is dead center with the outside of the tailstock quill.
Stefan, Super video. You are the first I have seen to mention about the tail stock quill pointing towards you. I thought mine was bored incorrectly. It's about .003" per 4" travel. Is that about right? I was trying to figure out how to straighten it but thanks to you I don't need to. I do find it frustrating, though, that once I set the tail stock offset for no taper I can't repeat it unless the quill is extended the exact amount.
The only time I ever used a travelling steady was when I made a lead screw for a Myford lathe. Not a nice job because at every pass the burrs had to be removed from the workpiece !
Did you check the vertical alignment of your tailstock as well to see if it needed shimmed up? I like the rigid tool post, you should have no problems taking cuts only limited by the power of the lathe now. :-)
That looks a trillion!👍
Stefan - great video . the method of aligning the tailstock is very interesting. Is this the same method you use to align the chuck when you have it on your quick change on your tool post for doing small hole drilling?
You are aligning to the OD of the tailstock quill, so are making the (probably correct) assumption that the morse taper socket is coaxial with the spindle.
Why not just put a coaxial indicator in the chuck and pick up the taper bore?
looks great (lathe) ......21:15 maybe you could build some kind of leather flap that mounts with Tnut behind the new tool post to keep chips out of your cross slide. or even a sheet metal slide that you can slide all the way toward the back of the shield - when you want to use your compound for tapers etc........ but when nothing is mounted you slide it against the tool post
Hi, Stefan! Thanks for you video. Your level of details very high as usual.
What you think about main lead screw protection (like a spring cover)? Is it necessary? I heard few different opinion. One of them - it is hard to see junk on screw threads and remove it at the right time. What you think about it?
Love the mods you have made Stefan, just curious about your method for aligning the tailstock. Are you sure that the outside of the quill is perfectly concentric with the quill taper?
Thats something you better check beforehand, absolutely right :)
Killer tailstock alignment technique.
@Richard King
I did not notice you giving credit to those that imparted knowledge to you? Everyone has picked up ideas from lots of others, I don't feel that everyone should have to explain where they learned their knowledge from.
Question on your tailstock alignment method. Wouldn't it be preferable to do the alignment with the quill retracted? That way when it is fully extended it will be biased towards you and cutting pressure would tend to push it straight, I would think.
Anyway, great video as always!
could you put the quill in the chuck jaws for aligning it just losen the adjustment screws clamp the jaws on the quill and then lighten the tailstock adjustment screws
Wow nice set up. Your lathe is cleaner than my microwave! Cheers! : )
You can line bore on your lathe
I can only dream of my lathe being that clean, beautiful work on the modifications. Doesn’t your tailstock alignment method assume that the OD of the tailstock is concentric with the bore? That may be a reasonable assumption, but the ultimate test is probably a test piece turned between centres.
Never asume, always check. I should do a tshirt with that slogan ;)
I spun the quill in a pair of v-blocks and checked the concentricity. My guess is, that the morsetaper is centerless-ID-ground, because its running darn true ;)
I loved the bushing removal. “Oops”
Talking about linear scales. Which DRO kit you would recommend from ebay? I would otherwise get Mitutoyo but it cost around 1300€.
I figured you were building a new tail stock.
for centering the tailstock I use an axial indicator, is way faster.... try it if you have one :)
Yes, I have one, nice Diacator, made in germany in good condition. Dont trust those dings farther than I can throw them. Plus: Gravity is an issue when you want to check height of the tailstock.
We call that "Chinese Mystery Grease" here in Canada!
How do you know the tapered hole in the quill is centered when aligning the tailstock this way? Couldn't you end up with perfect outside OD alignment to your stock in the chuck, yet the taper be off-center and create issues?
Hi Stefan, I just purchased a Emco maximat super 11, it’s basically all together with a the stand and backsplash guard , however it’s missing the number selection chart for the feed gearbox, is there any possibility you may know of anywhere in Germany that may have a few surplus pats for that machine. Thanks, JB
There's solid, and then there's Stefan solid. BobUK.
I'm a beginner on the lathe and i have a question to the solid tool post. When i turn a square shoulder i use the Z endstop on my lathe. The workflow is to drive the carriage to the Z end stop. Engage the tool post slide (which is missing in your case) to a certain Z dimension minus ~0.3 mm. Turn off material to a certain diameter using powerfeed and the Z endstop. Finally turning the shoulder face to the precise Z dimension (plus ~0.3 mm).
Having no tool post slide i think you use your carriage handwheel and dro to turn the shoulder face, right? In my case the resolution of the carriage hand wheel is quite rough. Is it even possible to drive it to a precise position or Z dimension?
Stefan, why did you not use a centering dial indicator in the chuck and clock the morse taper hole ? Would have saved finding stock and having to turn it.
Watch my video "Are indicator stands made out of rubber" - Indicating with a rotating indicator (or a centricator or something in that range) all suffer from sag due to gravitation.
For side to side thats usualy not a big problem, but for height, you will be off, if you dont compensate for it.
@@StefanGotteswinter Thanks for your reply. The only reason I suggested the centering indicator is that when the Boley Service Engineer comes to check our CNC lathe he does it that way. He puts a co axial indicator in the headstock and checks that the tool turret is centered when he asks the software to center the turret.
If you set up the tailstock spindle on the outside. How do you account for any off center or error on the spindle bore? Or do you just assume the bore is perfectly in the center of the spindle?
Never asume, always check. I should do a tshirt with that slogan ;)
I spun the quill in a pair of v-blocks and checked the concentricity. My guess is, that the morsetaper is centerless-ID-ground, because its running darn true ;)
Stefan, very nice set of additions. An idea how long will the leather hold up against cutting fluids and such?
I used leather on my old lathe too, and I have it on my mill - I dont see any ill efects from oil / cutting fluid or hot chips on it. Seems to last very, very long.
If hot chips (blue) hit it, it smells like burnt flesh, but thats all.
@@StefanGotteswinter as long as it doesn't feel like burnt flesh, it's a win
THE EXPLANATION AND INSTRUCTION IS MORE THAN ADEQUATE FOR MOST AMATEUR MACHINISTS HENCE THE THUMBS UP IS FAR IN ACCESS OF DOWN, I SUGGEST THAT THE EXPERT PRIMADONAS CREATE THEIR OWN BLOG WHERE THEY CAN DISAGREE TILL THEIR HEARTS CONTENT. THANK YOU STEFAN.
I started watching this when you published it, but set it aside until I could give it the attention it deserved, once again you've done the miracle of making something *appear* obvious and simple when it seems (to me ) to be difficult and maybe not worth bothering with (tailstock alignment) it's a skill you share with ToT, ClickSpring and Joe Pie.
Your ancient grease/Ancient Greece joke made me vomit, dammit (best translingual pun I can come up with I'm afraid, I have the monoglot curse of the English:))
Great Video as always!
Could you make a tutorial on lathe maintenance?
Like how often do you clean/grease it? What products do you use where? How do you get the grease/oil into the fittings?
That's all the stuff I have problems with.
That would make a great short video. All the little things that you mentioned take a long time to learn for the people without mentors.
Is that not feed through grinding not centerless?