The man that taught me was the best block layer around....he showed me the real secret to laying block....NOW we were laying 12 inch block and he showed me to #1 only go up 3 courses in a day...#2 fill 3 cells at the corner with mud n slag....#3 shoot every 3rd course with a transit on the corners.... #4...wire every other layer. #5 fill all the joints solid so that the web of each block on top is locked and sitting on something solid....yes this means there will be 40% more mud used on the foundation but it means alot....to this day i never had a zig zag crack ....and ive seen foundations just 2 years old have zig zag cracks.... He explained that every day the wall expands and contracts....and that a 12 inch block has 3 webs that are 12 inches wide and 2 rails that are not even 32 inches long.....by using the wire every other course and filling the joints you are making the wall expand width ways more than length ways.... I have demoed old block built in this manor and often times blocks will stay together 4 blocks in a bunch because they are truly locked....other crappy block work falls apart one block at a time often by hand lol.... Also when your corners are solid you can pull a hard string without worry of shifting...this guy was so good he set his first course right in a wet footing by 1/8 to 1/4 inch.....and when he did striking he did it at the perfect time which varies on temperature....he was a master and his knowledge was so amazing....his price was always highest but everyone around knew his work was no joke....far better than superior walls
Thinking about building a deer blind on my property with cinder blocks, sure beats the cost of $3K for a premade blind since I could do this myself cheaper.
I want to add on to existing 5 foot wall with one more block. Each block is 4 inches thick and are hollow. Do I have to add rebar to the top and how do I do if they’re hollow? Thank you.
Bit late for your job, but for anyone else. Lay the blocks flat out on ground, allow for joints and mark all at once. For long sections you'll just have to work on the wall using your tape to measure to the string that's on slope.
My wrist learned real quick to slap the board too. When I see guys, usually younger, just jerk the trowel down I wonder how long they’ve been doing it for, or how their wrist will be able to keep doing it. When I’m checking how a lead is tailing I like to hold the string back about a 16th off the corner though. That way you get a true gauge. Wrapping it around the corner means you could be running slightly out and not see it because the string could still be tight against the block everywhere. Running your long level down on a 45 across all the steps is a good guage of quality too. It should evenly contact all the outermost corners. Keep up the good work.
Pro tip for the trowel tap: Just tap the tip of the trowel on the board so you don't fling the mud with slapping the whole trowel. That way, it doesn't matter if you have a clear spot on the board or not to tap it, it won't fling any mud from the board. Other masons I've worked with, do that "slap" motion in the air and don't touch the mud board. And over years of masonry with that technique, their shoulders are messed up. So, just give the tip a tap.
First time I’ve ever seen someone do that and I have watched many many “lay block” videos and now I know why it looked sloppy when they tried to lay the cement on the block :).
Thanks for tips. Question: I seen some retaining block walls without mortar/grout inbetween. Would this be ok if filling cavities with concrete and rebar every 32 inches or so?? It would save me some time and back lol
This is just superb, been searching for "how far apart should floor joists be for a shed?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (just google it ) ? It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my colleague got cool results with it.
I am wanting to build a cordwood shed and needing a foundation of some sorts under my first row of logs and this looks like it might work. So what you are doing here is digging a what looks like a 18" trench and then are you putting the bottom row of cinder blocks directly onto the dirt or do you have a concrete footer under the bottom row of cnder blocks. I store my firewood on cinder blocks with the holes facing up and after a year or 2 they start sinking into the dirt so I am concerned if I do what you are doing that it might do the same thing. Please let me know what you are putting on top of those blocks.
Did you use a laser level to get the first corner blocks level at the four corners first and did I measured diagonally to make sure that they was square ?
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers do you have to put rebar through the blocks or does it matter if you don't I know the rebar strengthens it but is it necessary
I just thumbs up’d Kevino1489 because I have the same question. I would also like to know why you aren’t using a concrete footer, is it necessary? I haven’t seen it done this way before. NO, I am absolutely not a mason, never been one but I would love to know more about it. I want to construct a generator shed from block work. I live in Northern Vermont, about 20 minutes from the Canadian border. The winter’s can get pretty cold, as a matter of fact, we got our first frost last night (30 October 2023). I was thinking about a minimum of a 4” slab with rebar assembled in 12” intersections, tied, and using rebar chairs to make sure the rebar is not sitting on the 1/2” to maybe 3/4” stone base🫣. I was thinking maybe the material the slab should be poured on might be 6” minimum thickness of stone with the stone extending out beyond the outer edge of the proposed slab by about 12” for stability 🤷. I would like to have the structure be something like 8’ x 12’ with the walls being 6’ in height, the roof would have a 5/12 pitch. From what I can see as I walk around in public, most people are under 6’ tall. I know, there are plenty of people that are taller, but I’m thinking about the majority. Besides, my thought process is the outside walls being 6’ with a 5/12 pitch, there should be plenty of headroom in the event we sell and move on. I’m literally keeping the “other” guy/gal in mind for this. The reason for the 8’ x 12’ is I figured I’d have plenty of room for anything generator related (a cabinet to store oil, filters, fuel, circuit breakers, etc.) As well I could put yard tools in there, wheelbarrow, rototiller etc. I also wanted to have plenty of room to be able to do some sort of sound proofing, I don’t really want to annoy any of my neighbors. I have watched quite a few videos but not many show how to reinforce the walls in detail with explanation. I know I’ve seen where people fill every cavity with mortar, I’ve seen sand with mortar only where there was vertical rebar, I’ve seen the vertical rebar as well as them putting rebar horizontally on top of every course between the mortar runs along the outer edge, as they go up. I figure some of these processes would be cost inefficient, especially the filling of all of the cavities, even if it’s just sand. Also, I’m not convinced of putting rebar horizontally in between any of the courses, it would seem to me to be not only a waste of many things, but I would think it would actually weaken each course seam in reference to any extreme horizontal forces. From what I understand you should only be putting 3/8” +/- of mortar along the edges. What happens if the walls encounter hurricane force winds, accidental vehicle or some other type of machinery encounter. Falling trees hitting it from the side. You never know what might happen. I’m pretty sure concrete and properly installed block walls have a job and are designed for a purpose. I would say they have incredible compressibility resistance, when paired with vertical rebar and filled with concrete or mortar, once cured would have a higher tension resistance as opposed to non reinforced. As far as the horizontal forces applied to a finished, cured block wall, whether or not it’s reinforced. I don’t really have a lot of faith in their horizontal resistance. The reason I say this is because I lived in a house with a concrete, reinforced block wall basement, I had to have 3 of those walls replaced, so we had the entire house raised and all 4 walls replaced. The walls were constructed in 1957, they bowed in slowly over the years, we moved in, in 1990 and they were already 3/4” to 1 1/4” in certain areas. It was the center of each wall that was bowed. The top and bottoms were still in place. We kept an eye on them for years, in 2015 they were about 4”+ in places, bowed out by then, they were starting to loosen, the upstairs walls were cracking everywhere. We had them replaced with solid reinforced concrete walls that same year. I don’t have a problem with block walls but I wouldn’t use them for a basement, but that’s just me. If I can get information about this from the different sources available and put it all together, it doesn’t really matter how long it takes, I could build a generator shed that would last a few lifetimes. I hate doing things three or four or more times. I try to study anything I can before taking on a project of which I have limited knowledge. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure any advice you present would be appreciated and helpful to many viewers. I know it’s “just a generator shed” but I want it constructed properly, durable and it can have multi-task functions by anyone else in the future. IDK, maybe in 40 years or whatever when I’m dead and forgotten, someone else doesn’t want or need a generator building. Hence the reason for its proposed size, don’t want a generator? Fine, remove it, seal up the exhaust port, the fresh air intake and electrical conduits, there you go, it’s a sealed building. Too easy.😅 Everything I construct for myself is always completed with someone else in mind in the future, what do I think someone else would use this for? Maybe next month, next year or in 40 or more years. Before I start anything that may seem semi permanent, that’s when I plan everything in, it’s always too easy to construct something, it’s sometimes, difficult to impossible to add/change things after the stage is complete. Of course, I am aware it also depends on “what” that additional purpose to be built in or changes needed might be. Great video!👍 I actually got quite a bit out of it. Thank you 🙏. To the publisher, a lot of what is shared/written is not necessarily directed towards you or anyone else. It’s because many people are possibly going to read this and have comments or questions or 🤷. I’m simply trying to answer most of what I could think of that someone might say/ask. I apologize for the length. I actually changed this a few times to try to keep it as short as I thought it could be and still get everything I needed to ask, answering any questions that arise and trying to fill in any of the blanks I thought there might be. You and your family have a great day and stay safe. ☀️
@@joseecheagaray7620 theres a footer there its just dirty...any serious contractor or real mason would walk off that job if there was no footer....trust me
I came here hoping to find an answer but shouldn’t there be rebar sticking up out of the footer? What keeps the blocks in place when pressure is applied?
Pro tip for block wall! 1 where are your starter bars in the footing? 2 Where was your horizontal bar, ie corner bars 3 get a decent level using that thing will help you keep your corners plumb
all GREAT tips especially setting the block as close to plumb and level as you can ...hardly any tapping being a good lead man keeps you working. block is fun until you get up to the ibeams and duct work and pipes LOL!
With a tight string how do you prevent a gathering deviation, as a block might push on the string slightly and the next block and so on. 1/16" over many feet can add up. Love you vids, all the tips and tricks and your demeanor. Cheers from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.
Back in the 70s, my dad and his buddy's would do block foundations in Chicago, then after lunch they all would take a dump in a block, then lay the next one....alot of turds in some chitown homes
NOOOO!!! Never “pound” rebar in the ground for support. It WILL corrode and you will have no support. Masonry must be placed on a concrete footing. Vertical reinforcing with a 90° bend. Minimum 3” from earth.
For some.reason I always thought that you needed to do a base poor for those hallow blocks. It's OK to lay block on regular level ground weather it's for a stem wall or building an addition?
so dumb question I think I know the answer but it will be good to hear. He has the foundation going w/ these blocks but then he switches to wood framing. Why? Is it purely cost driven? Cheaper materials and faster I'm assuming? If I didn't care about that I'm guessing I'd be better off keep going w/ the bricks right? Better sound proofing, better insulation etc?
The one I'd never heard is the smack/slap method. Holy crap dude, I will never mud again without doing that! Doe sit also work with drywall mud, or is there a similar tip anybody out there knows about?
Thats a natural thing to do almost automatically by all professional masons. Its called settling the mortar on the trowel. It is also a natural thing to do after loading up a hawk when plastering. By settling the mortar on the hawk, it becomes much easier to take the mortar off the hawk with the trowel. Try it, and you will soon become more proficient using the hawk and trowel. Another thing to remember. Never let some wise guy empty his hawk, wash it clean with water, then reload it very full, and hand it over to you. He knows full well that the entire hawk full of mortar will slide off and all over you. That is unless you are very experienced using those tools, and know what he is hoping will happen. Best thing is to very politely empty the hawk back onto the mortar board, and reload it yourself. That will cancel the effect of the wet overloaded hawk, and transfer the intended joke back onto him.
Is there concrete under them blocks? I have a addition bathroom I want to add block support to on one side. As of right now it’s being held up my massive wood logs. Can I just put the blocks on leveled graded dirt and do it as you are in the video?
I want to have rebar go around the corner. I bought cinder blocks with the groove already cut out but I can't get the groove cut into the side of the corner block. Seems I would have to be a saw and special blade and I don't wanna spend all that money for a greenhouse I'm building with scrap materials.
Use the Pathagorean Theorem, it squares the layout, use at least a three foot level, not a torpedo...and block is layed in courses...corn grows in rows.
#1 tip for laying block. Set your footing height and any steps in it too work blocks. Cutting the bottom course takes ages, and bricklayers will charge you per cut.
I could use the line but there is no way i could do the atraight wall. I have a wall build already i like to pour concrete floor i wander whats the best way to conect the floor to the walls or it will glue itself once set?.its only 35sq meter house so it doesnt have to b strong btw.
Why do some blocks have the groove in one side and a divided cross member? Is that do you can split it in half if needed? And if so, how do you split a concrete block for if you need half blocks?
Those are called “sash” block…. They are used at control (expansion) joints. There is a rubber insert that fits in the slots when you put 2 block back to back. The y can also be used at door jambs and window openings.
Its funny to see how different we work in the building industrie around the world . I am from Holland and the bricklayers here work wit storie poles always and have there " mud" in big buggets (look voor metselaar on UA-cam). Anyway that is one of the Nice things that i like from channels like youres thanks for that. Keep it up.
Why is the poured concrete base beam...not washed off... before the blocks are set in mortar to the base? Some cement bonding to the base can't hurt the block wall strength...Right?
Yes, those were great tips. I had never thought of that before course. I’ll never be able to lay block
The man that taught me was the best block layer around....he showed me the real secret to laying block....NOW we were laying 12 inch block and he showed me to #1 only go up 3 courses in a day...#2 fill 3 cells at the corner with mud n slag....#3 shoot every 3rd course with a transit on the corners....
#4...wire every other layer.
#5 fill all the joints solid so that the web of each block on top is locked and sitting on something solid....yes this means there will be 40% more mud used on the foundation but it means alot....to this day i never had a zig zag crack ....and ive seen foundations just 2 years old have zig zag cracks....
He explained that every day the wall expands and contracts....and that a 12 inch block has 3 webs that are 12 inches wide and 2 rails that are not even 32 inches long.....by using the wire every other course and filling the joints you are making the wall expand width ways more than length ways....
I have demoed old block built in this manor and often times blocks will stay together 4 blocks in a bunch because they are truly locked....other crappy block work falls apart one block at a time often by hand lol....
Also when your corners are solid you can pull a hard string without worry of shifting...this guy was so good he set his first course right in a wet footing by 1/8 to 1/4 inch.....and when he did striking he did it at the perfect time which varies on temperature....he was a master and his knowledge was so amazing....his price was always highest but everyone around knew his work was no joke....far better than superior walls
Hi where are you based?
How much does he get per block
I love this
A video of this method would be PHENOMENAL and greatly appreciated
Perfect trade to get into Im collecting tools ASAP 🤩
Magic. Thank you.
Thinking about building a deer blind on my property with cinder blocks, sure beats the cost of $3K for a premade blind since I could do this myself cheaper.
👍 I do a lot of things myself for that reason
I want to add on to existing 5 foot wall with one more block. Each block is 4 inches thick and are hollow. Do I have to add rebar to the top and how do I do if they’re hollow? Thank you.
Hey! I wanna make a tapered wall with concrete blocks. Any tips for the cuts and alignment of the angled side?
Bit late for your job, but for anyone else. Lay the blocks flat out on ground, allow for joints and mark all at once.
For long sections you'll just have to work on the wall using your tape to measure to the string that's on slope.
Have you ever done foundations with board battens?
My wrist learned real quick to slap the board too. When I see guys, usually younger, just jerk the trowel down I wonder how long they’ve been doing it for, or how their wrist will be able to keep doing it. When I’m checking how a lead is tailing I like to hold the string back about a 16th off the corner though. That way you get a true gauge. Wrapping it around the corner means you could be running slightly out and not see it because the string could still be tight against the block everywhere. Running your long level down on a 45 across all the steps is a good guage of quality too. It should evenly contact all the outermost corners. Keep up the good work.
great tips!
You put the blocks right on the dirt….no concrete footings….good grief.
Its fun having you show us some real simple techniques
Pro tip for the trowel tap: Just tap the tip of the trowel on the board so you don't fling the mud with slapping the whole trowel. That way, it doesn't matter if you have a clear spot on the board or not to tap it, it won't fling any mud from the board.
Other masons I've worked with, do that "slap" motion in the air and don't touch the mud board. And over years of masonry with that technique, their shoulders are messed up. So, just give the tip a tap.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html🕊🕊
My shoulder is fine
We don't tap/slap, we just give it 1 shake & it stays on just fine
Lol flicking your trowel does your shoulder in? Come and be a hod carrier in the uk and you
Wouldn’t last a month
The shoulders are messed up from laying block for 40 years lol
Are those blocks being laid right on the ground?
Great tips. Just remember, the important thing is the corner goes up plumb... So make sure of that. Leveling the block is secondary.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html
First time I’ve ever seen someone do that and I have watched many many “lay block” videos and now I know why it looked sloppy when they tried to lay the cement on the block :).
Haha don't need to slap the dam board. Most contractors work out of mortar pans. Just have to shake it onto the trowel to lock it on.
@@crasherxtreme flip it like a pancake?
Goodie, nice trick
What do you use as your mud for this kind of blocking? Mortar or mason mix?
Thanks for tips. Question:
I seen some retaining block walls without mortar/grout inbetween. Would this be ok if filling cavities with concrete and rebar every 32 inches or so??
It would save me some time and back lol
Great tips brother. You're just a chip off the old concrete block! Thanks for the video
Thanks, I’m a beginner and going to try a simple project and this is really helpful.
This is just superb, been searching for "how far apart should floor joists be for a shed?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (just google it ) ? It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my colleague got cool results with it.
Is it ever common practice to fill the voids? Once the wall is fully built? (like pour in wet concrete)
I am wanting to build a cordwood shed and needing a foundation of some sorts under my first row of logs and this looks like it might work. So what you are doing here is digging a what looks like a 18" trench and then are you putting the bottom row of cinder blocks directly onto the dirt or do you have a concrete footer under the bottom row of cnder blocks. I store my firewood on cinder blocks with the holes facing up and after a year or 2 they start sinking into the dirt so I am concerned if I do what you are doing that it might do the same thing. Please let me know what you are putting on top of those blocks.
Did you use a laser level to get the first corner blocks level at the four corners first and did I measured diagonally to make sure that they was square ?
I love the quick, simple, informative videos. I am always looking forward to the next one! Keep up the great work!
Thanks.. much appreciated
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers do you have to put rebar through the blocks or does it matter if you don't I know the rebar strengthens it but is it necessary
@@kevino1489
.
.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html🕊🕊
I just thumbs up’d Kevino1489 because I have the same question. I would also like to know why you aren’t using a concrete footer, is it necessary? I haven’t seen it done this way before. NO, I am absolutely not a mason, never been one but I would love to know more about it. I want to construct a generator shed from block work. I live in Northern Vermont, about 20 minutes from the Canadian border. The winter’s can get pretty cold, as a matter of fact, we got our first frost last night (30 October 2023). I was thinking about a minimum of a 4” slab with rebar assembled in 12” intersections, tied, and using rebar chairs to make sure the rebar is not sitting on the 1/2” to maybe 3/4” stone base🫣. I was thinking maybe the material the slab should be poured on might be 6” minimum thickness of stone with the stone extending out beyond the outer edge of the proposed slab by about 12” for stability 🤷.
I would like to have the structure be something like 8’ x 12’ with the walls being 6’ in height, the roof would have a 5/12 pitch. From what I can see as I walk around in public, most people are under 6’ tall. I know, there are plenty of people that are taller, but I’m thinking about the majority. Besides, my thought process is the outside walls being 6’ with a 5/12 pitch, there should be plenty of headroom in the event we sell and move on. I’m literally keeping the “other” guy/gal in mind for this. The reason for the 8’ x 12’ is I figured I’d have plenty of room for anything generator related (a cabinet to store oil, filters, fuel, circuit breakers, etc.)
As well I could put yard tools in there, wheelbarrow, rototiller etc.
I also wanted to have plenty of room to be able to do some sort of sound proofing, I don’t really want to annoy any of my neighbors.
I have watched quite a few videos but not many show how to reinforce the walls in detail with explanation. I know I’ve seen where people fill every cavity with mortar, I’ve seen sand with mortar only where there was vertical rebar, I’ve seen the vertical rebar as well as them putting rebar horizontally on top of every course between the mortar runs along the outer edge, as they go up.
I figure some of these processes would be cost inefficient, especially the filling of all of the cavities, even if it’s just sand. Also, I’m not convinced of putting rebar horizontally in between any of the courses, it would seem to me to be not only a waste of many things, but I would think it would actually weaken each course seam in reference to any extreme horizontal forces. From what I understand you should only be putting 3/8” +/- of mortar along the edges. What happens if the walls encounter hurricane force winds, accidental vehicle or some other type of machinery encounter. Falling trees hitting it from the side. You never know what might happen.
I’m pretty sure concrete and properly installed block walls have a job and are designed for a purpose. I would say they have incredible compressibility resistance, when paired with vertical rebar and filled with concrete or mortar, once cured would have a higher tension resistance as opposed to non reinforced. As far as the horizontal forces applied to a finished, cured block wall, whether or not it’s reinforced. I don’t really have a lot of faith in their horizontal resistance.
The reason I say this is because I lived in a house with a concrete, reinforced block wall basement, I had to have 3 of those walls replaced, so we had the entire house raised and all 4 walls replaced. The walls were constructed in 1957, they bowed in slowly over the years, we moved in, in 1990 and they were already 3/4” to 1 1/4” in certain areas. It was the center of each wall that was bowed. The top and bottoms were still in place. We kept an eye on them for years, in 2015 they were about 4”+ in places, bowed out by then, they were starting to loosen, the upstairs walls were cracking everywhere. We had them replaced with solid reinforced concrete walls that same year.
I don’t have a problem with block walls but I wouldn’t use them for a basement, but that’s just me.
If I can get information about this from the different sources available and put it all together, it doesn’t really matter how long it takes, I could build a generator shed that would last a few lifetimes. I hate doing things three or four or more times.
I try to study anything I can before taking on a project of which I have limited knowledge. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure any advice you present would be appreciated and helpful to many viewers.
I know it’s “just a generator shed” but I want it constructed properly, durable and it can have multi-task functions by anyone else in the future. IDK, maybe in 40 years or whatever when I’m dead and forgotten, someone else doesn’t want or need a generator building.
Hence the reason for its proposed size, don’t want a generator? Fine, remove it, seal up the exhaust port, the fresh air intake and electrical conduits, there you go, it’s a sealed building. Too easy.😅
Everything I construct for myself is always completed with someone else in mind in the future, what do I think someone else would use this for? Maybe next month, next year or in 40 or more years.
Before I start anything that may seem semi permanent, that’s when I plan everything in, it’s always too easy to construct something, it’s sometimes, difficult to impossible to add/change things after the stage is complete. Of course, I am aware it also depends on “what” that additional purpose to be built in or changes needed might be.
Great video!👍 I actually got quite a bit out of it. Thank you 🙏.
To the publisher, a lot of what is shared/written is not necessarily directed towards you or anyone else. It’s because many people are possibly going to read this and have comments or questions or 🤷.
I’m simply trying to answer most of what I could think of that someone might say/ask.
I apologize for the length. I actually changed this a few times to try to keep it as short as I thought it could be and still get everything I needed to ask, answering any questions that arise and trying to fill in any of the blanks I thought there might be.
You and your family have a great day and stay safe. ☀️
No one gets left behind! Everyone is included.
In Russia we have blocks with flat surface on one side, so it needs to put mud on a flat side and lay next block holes down
I guess with a clay footing you could pound in reinforcing after you’re done.. yikes.
Funny.. I saw the same thing. Last time i check you supposed to have concrete footing. Then you laid your blocks. Lol.
@@joseecheagaray7620 theres a footer there its just dirty...any serious contractor or real mason would walk off that job if there was no footer....trust me
El ranchero
Like work construccion
You'll end up using twice the amount of mortar by your slapping method
Do they care? Customer pays and suffers high costs 🤨
I came here hoping to find an answer but shouldn’t there be rebar sticking up out of the footer? What keeps the blocks in place when pressure is applied?
Pro tip for block wall!
1 where are your starter bars in the footing?
2 Where was your horizontal bar, ie corner bars
3 get a decent level using that thing will help you keep your corners plumb
Don't slap the mud board! 😂
Where is foundation?
You put blocks right on the ground!
I thought that too but the foundation looks like its covered in mud
Ikr. No proper foundation
all GREAT tips especially setting the block as close to plumb and level as you can ...hardly any tapping being a good lead man keeps you working. block is fun until you get up to the ibeams and duct work and pipes LOL!
ua-cam.com/video/lyk50gFS2rY/v-deo.html
They are called courses, not rows buddy.
With a tight string how do you prevent a gathering deviation, as a block might push on the string slightly and the next block and so on. 1/16" over many feet can add up. Love you vids, all the tips and tricks and your demeanor. Cheers from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.
I’m a noob, and ran into this as well. Just got to get the block right up to it without pushing it
Set your line about one centimeter above the block height with mortar added. Simple, you never have this problem again
It's called a 3-4-5 for short corners. 6-8-10 for larger. Or you can measure from corner to corner. A torpedo level? REALLY?? WHAT A BOOT!!!
Back in the 70s, my dad and his buddy's would do block foundations in Chicago, then after lunch they all would take a dump in a block, then lay the next one....alot of turds in some chitown homes
That’s funny
@@Redeemyrrh they really did that
havent finish watching just wanted to say wasssss uppppp. and its okay to make mistakes.
NOOOO!!! Never “pound” rebar in the ground for support. It WILL corrode and you will have no support. Masonry must be placed on a concrete footing. Vertical reinforcing with a 90° bend. Minimum 3” from earth.
For some.reason I always thought that you needed to do a base poor for those hallow blocks. It's OK to lay block on regular level ground weather it's for a stem wall or building an addition?
so dumb question I think I know the answer but it will be good to hear. He has the foundation going w/ these blocks but then he switches to wood framing. Why? Is it purely cost driven? Cheaper materials and faster I'm assuming? If I didn't care about that I'm guessing I'd be better off keep going w/ the bricks right? Better sound proofing, better insulation etc?
The one I'd never heard is the smack/slap method. Holy crap dude, I will never mud again without doing that!
Doe sit also work with drywall mud, or is there a similar tip anybody out there knows about?
Thats a natural thing to do almost automatically by all professional masons.
Its called settling the mortar on the trowel.
It is also a natural thing to do after loading up a hawk when plastering.
By settling the mortar on the hawk, it becomes much easier to take the mortar off the hawk with the trowel.
Try it, and you will soon become more proficient using the hawk and trowel.
Another thing to remember.
Never let some wise guy empty his hawk, wash it clean with water, then reload it very full, and hand it over to you.
He knows full well that the entire hawk full of mortar will slide off and all over you.
That is unless you are very experienced using those tools, and know what he is hoping will happen.
Best thing is to very politely empty the hawk back onto the mortar board, and reload it yourself.
That will cancel the effect of the wet overloaded hawk, and transfer the intended joke back onto him.
thanks bro i like u work
Is there concrete under them blocks? I have a addition bathroom I want to add block support to on one side. As of right now it’s being held up my massive wood logs. Can I just put the blocks on leveled graded dirt and do it as you are in the video?
"Slap" in other words is chicken shitting all over my dad gum board..
Drys the mud too quickly
Nonproductive in my opinion
Time is money
Pretty much you r a professional graduate from Chicago local brick union I've seen em doing those good tricks
I want to have rebar go around the corner. I bought cinder blocks with the groove already cut out but I can't get the groove cut into the side of the corner block. Seems I would have to be a saw and special blade and I don't wanna spend all that money for a greenhouse I'm building with scrap materials.
Use the Pathagorean Theorem, it squares the layout, use at least a three foot level, not a torpedo...and block is layed in courses...corn grows in rows.
Exactly what I was looking for ....you and youtube are awesome...good stuff
No footing? They are under 8” figure in mortar. Fuck why am I not making a video?! I’m way better at this lol!
good tips thank you. did you lay those on concrete or just solid ground?
Good tips! We all learn from eachother. ;)
ua-cam.com/video/lyk50gFS2rY/v-deo.html
You get a like and subscribe from me just for the slap. Wish I would of saw.this before I laid the first 300 block.
#1 tip for laying block. Set your footing height and any steps in it too work blocks. Cutting the bottom course takes ages, and bricklayers will charge you per cut.
Yes!!!! This is super important! I always pour the footing on block-work so I don’t have to cut any of the bottom row. Thanks
to right hell of alot easier to get the footings right then cut blocks in all day
Torpedo level has a eight inch length. To check course heights. Set line on corner first course with a line block. Range line will be set in place.
I could use the line but there is no way i could do the atraight wall.
I have a wall build already i like to pour concrete floor i wander whats the best way to conect the floor to the walls or it will glue itself once set?.its only 35sq meter house so it doesnt have to b strong btw.
I have 10 years of experience and This is the worst video for laying block, this is not how you lay block.
Cinder blocks are laid with holes down. Much faster and easy. 40 years experience here.
Why do some blocks have the groove in one side and a divided cross member? Is that do you can split it in half if needed? And if so, how do you split a concrete block for if you need half blocks?
Those are called “sash” block…. They are used at control (expansion) joints. There is a rubber insert that fits in the slots when you put 2 block back to back. The y can also be used at door jambs and window openings.
Mi esposa me preguntó que por qué aquí en Guatemala no hay albañiles rubios. 😒
Ya ,free car from TL seline MK for Zuriah Dan Anak Set MPV Dan anak ,2
1:45 you asked us to "watch where my eyeball goes". How dyou expect us to do that with those sunglasses on?
Very nice your work👍
El.ranchero
Buen trabajo
Like💜
BAGDAHH IRAQ !!!!
nice to see vids popping up from 3 years ago ... good vid and make original music for your vids.
Davis Sandra Clark Patricia Rodriguez Larry
Pouring concrete walls is so much easier I don't get why anyone still does this.
Question why in Mexico do they put concrete towers in the corners and openings?
Usually just shake the trowel or hit a stock pile block to avoid sloppin the wall up
No 16inch concrete footing under the block??
For load bearing house construction which blocks to be use solid block or hollow block?
I always had trouble for the mud to stay on,thank so much
Great video, you should do some more on building a block stem wall.
Instead of a slap with the mortar, what we call a snap with the trowel. Same thing just don't hit plywood.
Yeah just a flick of the wrist. LOL then again nowadays they'll have to have the actual strength to do it. LOL
Why did you use hollow block for foundation walls instead of solid blocks
Best advice I could give you is choose another career if you value your back
Where's the concrete footing? Just on soil?!! 3rd world
Do you set the block directly on the dirt rather than on a foundation first?
in iraq we ley the block up side down , i don't know what is the different
I always learn something new watching your guys channel.
Kcz d
Insano xmnxx
Dude, all this time I never knew about the "slap".
My last name is Perkins, i’m a University of Cincinnati student, and i found this super helpful in building my first retaining wall. Small world!
Expert tip! Use steel corner poles and save time!
where's the steel?
Hi, am from vanuatu . where I can find machine block
Its funny to see how different we work in the building industrie around the world . I am from Holland and the bricklayers here work wit storie poles always and have there " mud" in big buggets (look voor metselaar on UA-cam). Anyway that is
one of the Nice things that i like from channels like youres thanks for that. Keep it up.
Where the hell is your footing for this wall.? WTF
Clicked on this because thumbnail had UC shirt
In foundation must have ring beam or I can build without
Good tips. Why no batter boards? They give you a lot of confidence that you're staying on the right track.
ua-cam.com/video/lyk50gFS2rY/v-deo.html
Thank you bro for imparting your knowledge in hollow blocks foundation it is really helping for me
Bellend England
Thanks
Hello sir iam mason dubai rented please my visa apply please
I done block not a lot but some not like expert stuff. This videos of yours are very helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/lyk50gFS2rY/v-deo.html
Why is the poured concrete base beam...not washed off... before the blocks are set in mortar to the base?
Some cement bonding to the base can't hurt the block wall strength...Right?
What do you do if the block row is NOT at the correct height of 8”? Like what if the block needs to come up?
You gotta pick up and reapply mortar.
Thanks for the help ima go build ah wall
Nice tip bro I'm from Fiji islands