Hey channel owners I am very excited to see this you guys are willing to share your knowledge and skills with everyone including me I live in Algeria ( a different part of the planet ) thanks for everything .
thank you buddy for the content .I was a bricklayer back home and i just get my first job as a bricklayer in Canada this video is very useful for me to catch the gap between both regulations...I hope everything gonna be alright.✌
This is a sweet job. Those footings look 10x better than most people's look. Everything is clean and looks great, even though it'll be buried. Nice work!
I was taught to always double butter the block. We would butter the head joint of the block already laid and then butter the mating head of the block you are about to lay. It sounds complicated and slow, but in practice it is neither. It also pretty well guarantees a good full head joint.
Best damn video on block laying due to the correct and best way which should be the only way but many don't do it. I've seen block laid without rebar and left hollow, it amazes me this gets overlooked as you can easily take down a structure with a sledge hammer. My only regret is you guys are a exception instead of the majority.
@@peterrose5373 Done that on a demo but it's slow going and exhausting when you happened to be about 55 yrs old at the time. Can't beat having the right tools and equip to work smarter not harder.
As a union mason I must say I like your videos . A few things we do different that are a little more efficient but you guys do nice work. One of the better videos here.
@@masonthemason6412 increase the length of your spread to three block minimum. You waste less time and energy spreading the wall. You can even get 6' feet with one 10" trowel but it cuts down on speed buying more concentrated.
@@masonthemason6412 send me your questions I have most of the answers from A TO Z. I still like to look and learn. Many can be fast. Few can be fast and good. Even fewer can be best fast neat and clean. Even fewer can do it with style on top of the other lists. I have seen thousands and thousands of bricklayers work. I have picked things off some of the say not so good bricklayers. I'm highly critical of bricklayers, the one I'm most critical of is myself. Every movement I make I judge it. Fifty years never lost interest. To many it's a job they're stuck in for the money. For me I love the competition on the wall and when in business. It has all gone by in a flash. I see you and a few others here on UA-cam have a passion. Dump the Chinese trowel they're looking to bury us. Keep you tools clean and respect them. Learn not to beat the level even though they take more of a beating than 50 years ago.
Great tutorial!!! Thanks for this because it's been a big help learning some new tricks.. I'm carpenter by trade but also a homeowner so this comes in very useful to me!!
@@yeskeepgoing2919 all foundation will require bond beams so complete fill starter bars at minimum 600mm centers and horizontal bars, starter bars 12mm require 100mm 16mm bars require 150mm embedment with epoxy or embedded in wet concrete. Everything is overbuilt here.
if you sprinkle baking soda under the first course it makes it a lot stronger. supposed to use a level to check the block is same height on other side of line
Hey Mason, Seeing your video of you building that wall with your father made me think about working for my father's Mason company back in the day. Thanks
Good to see some young men helping out their old man with a trade. Their not dancing on tic tok or playing video games. The future might have some hope after all.
My uncle taught for 20 years at our local vo-tech high school, I really wish I had taken his course, even though I'm in another field bricklaying would come in handy for all types of projects I want now
if its for defensive purposes you'd prob wanna fill every 'column' with concrete not just the rebar bearing columns. Bricks will stop a few rounds but Paul Harrell has tons of vids showing how quickly those can be defeated by different calibers
Dirt is the best defence, would want blocks filled with concrete like stated above but would want atleast 1 layer of sandbags on outside, seems facing toward the blocks. If seems facing outward the bags will spill fast.
I am building a 6 foot backyard wall, the difference I did was I wanted more re-enforcement so I first placed two foot rebar in the ground to come through the footings. then a piece of rebar 5'11" inches tall every 16 inches as the typical wall here in Arizona is either 4 or 6 inch wide block, I am building with 8x8x16 block with the 16 inch re-enforcement. I do not think the wall will ever come down. I also am placing 2" thick cap blocks on the top of the wall for a smooth finish on top. You are good and making it seem very easy in which it takes time and effort to lay block correctly!1 I used the re-enforcement grid wire every three courses up the wall. I will hand build the 36" wide gate myself using 2 x 4 to brace the gate and 3/4" Plywood sheeting for the gate face. I will use carriage bolts with nylon locker nuts to build the gate. I think the gate and wall might last longer than me!! As for the gate, I will paint the 2 x 4s before assembling them and the gate face to prevent water from getting between and rotting the wood. I will then caulk each joint and put a second coat of paint on the entire gate!
I’m a structural engineer and to watch videos of some contractors build walls boggles my mind sometimes. The vertical rebar does not have to be tied to the horizontal rebar of the footing, but if you are building a new wall it does not hurt. The vertical rebar just needs to be embedded into the footing, but further down than just tapping it a few times, probably at least four inches unless you are using an epoxy anchor for existing concrete. They also used a short piece of rebar to start, but didn’t show how they tied it to the taller vertical piece. You need the overlap of the rebar to be a certain length by code called development length. No way they would get that with that small starter piece. It is good to see they are using horizontal rebar, but not sure if they are doing it every other course. I think they need more vertical rebar as well.
@@daCubanaqt most of the structural specs I have dealt with want a horizontal rebar every 4' up the wall. Generally in an 8" block or larger, 10" or 12" They will speck two #5 bars with a minimum bar lap of 48 bar diameters. Bars go through the control joints but are treated as a slip joint as the end of the bar needs to be greased or placed in a roll of tar paper so the wall can move within its length. The wire does not go through the control joints. In the Midwest we will generally use wire that looks like a railroad track or is square and not truss wire. I have been told by structural engineers that the ladder type gives more lateral support than the truss wire. I have built 12" block walls with two #8 rods in every cell and a bond beam at the base of the wall as well as every 4 foot up the wall with two feet of solid grout where the roofline intersects the block wall.
@@daCubanaqtAll homes I’m south Florida are build from blocks . Vertical rebar every 4 feet and a bond beam around the top with rebar #5. The only bond beam is on the very top .
It depends on if wall is designed by an SE for rebar installation. Maybe the AHJ doesn't require strict ACI compliance in that area so they use what they want what makes sense. Respect but I would wouldn't pour a footer without uprights but I am in a SDC area of D. Maybe the aren't so rebar requirements are lighter. Good block work
Good effort for young guys, construction can be fun, i was brought up in it from childhood made me tough, prepped me for military service, im old and washed up nowadays so enjoy watching these vids, not to be negative or picky i want to commend your channel, two small things, where is the damp proof course? Isn’t it worth adding a layer on top of the first row, the more DPC the better, and second the spelling is Lintels, it is great to see a family working together i didn’t always get on with my dad so that can be an issue he has passed away now, sometimes you just need your own space i would say stick with your dad as long as you can 👍
@@masonthemason6412 Put up poles & shoot the height...mark off on 8 inches...hang your line. Everybody gets out at the same time. Raise it again ,,repeat.
Good job explaining...like the way you hammered in the rebar, i need to do that on my1st row block ...good to know, because I thought the guy forgot to dot it when the footing was poured
Damn, I wish I could have a house built by folks like you, able to lay a straight vertical wall. My parents house looks like Ned Flanders house rebuilt by Springfield.
A.I. will never replace most trade jobs. I am now seeing so many pop-up tornados that I am doing similar construction in my strong Earth/rock laden wall western exposure with 2 1/2 car garage above, as no tornado can work past that 30 feet of Earth, etc., as for the northwestern exposure coming from western Alabama direction, (85% of bad weather comes from this direction) I have large blocks, as seen in this video. I am also going down three feet deep for concrete and block foundation. As a chef, butcher, professor, and author of now eight books and a guy who payed attention to my creative dad we build prior to me working through ten years of college as a tradesman and dad could do anything. Dad and I build garages, and dozens of rock and block retaining wall on lakes in Missouri before college. Pay attention to dad. So, I needed help with heavy loads on our mountain 1,200 feet on bluff in Hoover, Alabama very steep and they are hard working Mexicans, but some had NO training, (taught them these techniques shown in video. Always save and do not throw away concrete, but go back to plywood storage for mix. Mixture must be different for pouring into backfill and all block fill and if to thick it may not penetrate to bottom of rows. I stay on every aspect of work all day long and at almost 81 got into 6' by 8' floor, (total rock and combo good Alabama clay and dirt) to use a pick ax, rake and flat shovel to level down to 8' 3" ceiling prep area. The hundreds of rocks were used for back fill, as a under ground, in full basement with heavy concrete build and all brick facia we have an advantage over anything above ground and chose the correct corner to build. This takes times as your concrete at each stage takes time. Not like me breaking down 185 pound hide and four quarters of beef as a real butcher working though ten years of college including Ph.D., etc. We have a bill that will cover up to $2,500 of construction cost off your taxes, as I am a LLC, so check with your state laws to see how much they allow. Keep all bills and for sure write a contract and read it out to your company doing the job and date the contract and often they may won't up front cash and/or check but keep copies of all. Take pictures each day and either download or run off copies also for your tax file. Also, make sure when you design your shelter or safe room that it opens to the inside only, as in many cases even those full metal ones either two or four person shelter often open to the outside and most are going on slabs on grade level or in a garage and bolted to the concrete slab. Two weeks ago in Texas they had a large one pulled off the slab by a level 5 tornado and it was for sure a, "Wizard Of Oz" experience where it took off over five miles and all were killed. So, much for some above ground metal shelters, we looked at many and was not impressed with a metal door opening to outside where rafters come down in most cases and trap you. Go figure! I have one above ground shelter I built ten years ago, but felt it was time to go into the strong concrete wall construction and build yet another concrete filled with concrete, etc. I am running cable lines, ( was professor of radio, TV, communications, advertising/marketing) and may run 3d too. Also put a two or four plug electric line inside for fan, lights, TV, radio, with battery backup for all. It will be a nice place to watch the radar show bad storms with my wife of 55 years, racing over the neighborhood. On more important point, we can put easy four with chairs in the one I designed and build now, but make sure you drill at least six to ten holes in your concrete blocks for AIR, as you don't know how long you will be there. I plan on putting Galvanized steel wire to cover the holes so insects, etc., do not make home in my safe home. I am putting "Dry Lock" over outside and inside for any potential moisture issue, but my basement is 100% dry. Be sure about yours. Also, even though you think all is safe in your safe room take a battery powered concrete saw and a 16 pound sludge hammer just in case all your rafters cave into your door area. We have total battery power for all too, just in case of power issues. May not need it, but as seen in "Forrest Gump", Shit Happens, so be ready.
Hi, I am new here, I have a question, to build a brick house, can I insulate the inside? I know Brick would be cold in winter. Also I am planning to put rocks the outside the walls. I am planning to build a tiny house but not on wheels. I going with brick because I thing is cheap
If your plan calls for core filled walls, but you have used cap block where needed, how do you fill those cavities under the cap block? Do they just not get filled? Thanks!
Probably depends on job. As long as inspector ok's it. I prefer it this way because we don't have to figure out where the cores are gonna fall before we pour footers. So much easier to come back and drill them in
Wire is every 2nd course? So the short rebar on the bottom is to anchor that course. You add a rebar down through the top course to the rebar in the bottom and fill with mud?
Absolutely the best block laying tutorial I have seen online! Thank you.
Thank you!
Hey channel owners I am very excited to see this you guys are willing to share your knowledge and skills with everyone including me I live in Algeria ( a different part of the planet ) thanks for everything .
I love sharing info hopefully helping people. Thank you!!
thank you buddy for the content .I was a bricklayer back home and i just get my first job as a bricklayer in Canada this video is very useful for me to catch the gap between both regulations...I hope everything gonna be alright.✌
This is a sweet job. Those footings look 10x better than most people's look. Everything is clean and looks great, even though it'll be buried. Nice work!
Thanks!
Always wanted to get into the trades. Never minded hard work. Just needed a great instructor who was willing to share their knowledge. Great video.
There’s more people like me out there. Thanks
I was taught to always double butter the block. We would butter the head joint of the block already laid and then butter the mating head of the block you are about to lay. It sounds complicated and slow, but in practice it is neither. It also pretty well guarantees a good full head joint.
Best damn video on block laying due to the correct and best way which should be the only way but many don't do it. I've seen block laid without rebar and left hollow, it amazes me this gets overlooked as you can easily take down a structure with a sledge hammer. My only regret is you guys are a exception instead of the majority.
Thanks!!! Means a lot
You've been watching the wrong videos.
Adding rebar and filling the cores adds about 4 minutes to how long it takes to get through a block wall with a sledgehammer.
@@peterrose5373 Done that on a demo but it's slow going and exhausting when you happened to be about 55 yrs old at the time. Can't beat having the right tools and equip to work smarter not harder.
As a union mason I must say I like your videos . A few things we do different that are a little more efficient but you guys do nice work. One of the better videos here.
Thank you! One day I will learn them. I'm 21 and trying to share the knowledge I have. I got plenty more to go learn and teach
That you BRANDON 😜
@@masonthemason6412 increase the length of your spread to three block minimum. You waste less time and energy spreading the wall. You can even get 6' feet with one 10" trowel but it cuts down on speed buying more concentrated.
@@masonthemason6412 send me your questions I have most of the answers from A TO Z. I still like to look and learn. Many can be fast. Few can be fast and good. Even fewer can be best fast neat and clean. Even fewer can do it with style on top of the other lists. I have seen thousands and thousands of bricklayers work. I have picked things off some of the say not so good bricklayers. I'm highly critical of bricklayers, the one I'm most critical of is myself. Every movement I make I judge it. Fifty years never lost interest. To many it's a job they're stuck in for the money. For me I love the competition on the wall and when in business. It has all gone by in a flash. I see you and a few others here on UA-cam have a passion. Dump the Chinese trowel they're looking to bury us. Keep you tools clean and respect them. Learn not to beat the level even though they take more of a beating than 50 years ago.
@@PaddleDogC5 I do not believe you.
You learn something every day, tricking at the top of the block 👍
Great tutorial!!! Thanks for this because it's been a big help learning some new tricks.. I'm carpenter by trade but also a homeowner so this comes in very useful to me!!
This is by far the best instructional video 💪
Thanks! I have a couple more like this one
Facts...love it when tutorials are in details and tell it like we are kids with zero knowledge...thanks Mason
Great fundamentals wish we could build like that here in NZ but no way that would pass code here those days have gone
@@glennimmortal Good to know...what has changed?
@@yeskeepgoing2919 all foundation will require bond beams so complete fill starter bars at minimum 600mm centers and horizontal bars, starter bars 12mm require 100mm 16mm bars require 150mm embedment with epoxy or embedded in wet concrete. Everything is overbuilt here.
if you sprinkle baking soda under the first course it makes it a lot stronger. supposed to use a level to check the block is same height on other side of line
it actually looks enjoyable with nice weather
Hey Mason,
Seeing your video of you building that wall with your father made me think about working for my father's Mason company back in the day. Thanks
Good to see some young men helping out their old man with a trade. Their not dancing on tic tok or playing video games. The future might have some hope after all.
You guys lay that mud like smooth machines.
Thanks!
This was excellent. Great combo of visuals and explanation.
My uncle taught for 20 years at our local vo-tech high school, I really wish I had taken his course, even though I'm in another field bricklaying would come in handy for all types of projects I want now
damm.. just another day for yall, ty for sharing
Yeah haha. Thanks for watching
Browsing this video, this is super well made, great details. When you spread the mud across the edge of the block at 2:51 I said whoaa
Thanks!!
Very smart to find projects where you don't have to set up scaffolding! :) Just the right height.
So satisfying to watch.
Glad to be working with dad
Nice. video mate. You made it look easier than actually is.
Yeah that took a long time to learn
احب الشاب المكافح الذي يعمل بجد وذكاء اتمنى لكم النجاح .صديق من العراق
best explanation video I've seen. thank you.
great leader... you'll do great
Thank you!
I was thinking about building my own lil shop with blocks ... I may use wood now 😂 strong backs there fellas 💪
Great video. great details. this should be called ' How to lay block on the cleanest footer ever poured
Haha thank you
Wow beautiful work folks!
Thanks!
Love this, was thinking of how to build a wall like this for a defensive wall type structure
if its for defensive purposes you'd prob wanna fill every 'column' with concrete not just the rebar bearing columns. Bricks will stop a few rounds but Paul Harrell has tons of vids showing how quickly those can be defeated by different calibers
Dirt is the best defence, would want blocks filled with concrete like stated above but would want atleast 1 layer of sandbags on outside, seems facing toward the blocks. If seems facing outward the bags will spill fast.
I am building a 6 foot backyard wall, the difference I did was I wanted more re-enforcement so I first placed two foot rebar in the ground to come through the footings. then a piece of rebar 5'11" inches tall every 16 inches as the typical wall here in Arizona is either 4 or 6 inch wide block, I am building with 8x8x16 block with the 16 inch re-enforcement. I do not think the wall will ever come down. I also am placing 2" thick cap blocks on the top of the wall for a smooth finish on top. You are good and making it seem very easy in which it takes time and effort to lay block correctly!1 I used the re-enforcement grid wire every three courses up the wall. I will hand build the 36" wide gate myself using 2 x 4 to brace the gate and 3/4" Plywood sheeting for the gate face. I will use carriage bolts with nylon locker nuts to build the gate. I think the gate and wall might last longer than me!! As for the gate, I will paint the 2 x 4s before assembling them and the gate face to prevent water from getting between and rotting the wood. I will then caulk each joint and put a second coat of paint on the entire gate!
Great vid, i am building a new house and your vid definitely helps! Keep up the great work
Glad I could help, thanks!
Very informative! Thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you!!!
Nice rune and valknut, ty 4 sharing
Thanks!
We can’t get away with that drilled footing rebar thing. Rebar uprights have to be tied into the horizontal rebar inside the footing
I’m a structural engineer and to watch videos of some contractors build walls boggles my mind sometimes. The vertical rebar does not have to be tied to the horizontal rebar of the footing, but if you are building a new wall it does not hurt. The vertical rebar just needs to be embedded into the footing, but further down than just tapping it a few times, probably at least four inches unless you are using an epoxy anchor for existing concrete. They also used a short piece of rebar to start, but didn’t show how they tied it to the taller vertical piece. You need the overlap of the rebar to be a certain length by code called development length. No way they would get that with that small starter piece. It is good to see they are using horizontal rebar, but not sure if they are doing it every other course. I think they need more vertical rebar as well.
@@daCubanaqt most of the structural specs I have dealt with want a horizontal rebar every 4' up the wall. Generally in an 8" block or larger, 10" or 12" They will speck two #5 bars with a minimum bar lap of 48 bar diameters. Bars go through the control joints but are treated as a slip joint as the end of the bar needs to be greased or placed in a roll of tar paper so the wall can move within its length. The wire does not go through the control joints. In the Midwest we will generally use wire that looks like a railroad track or is square and not truss wire. I have been told by structural engineers that the ladder type gives more lateral support than the truss wire. I have built 12" block walls with two #8 rods in every cell and a bond beam at the base of the wall as well as every 4 foot up the wall with two feet of solid grout where the roofline intersects the block wall.
@@daCubanaqtAll homes I’m south Florida are build from blocks . Vertical rebar every 4 feet and a bond beam around the top with rebar #5. The only bond beam is on the very top .
Also structural engineer from Europe, wondering how they did the vertical columns.No sense.
It depends on if wall is designed by an SE for rebar installation. Maybe the AHJ doesn't require strict ACI compliance in that area so they use what they want what makes sense. Respect but I would wouldn't pour a footer without uprights but I am in a SDC area of D. Maybe the aren't so rebar requirements are lighter. Good block work
Good effort for young guys, construction can be fun, i was brought up in it from childhood made me tough, prepped me for military service, im old and washed up nowadays so enjoy watching these vids, not to be negative or picky i want to commend your channel, two small things, where is the damp proof course? Isn’t it worth adding a layer on top of the first row, the more DPC the better, and second the spelling is Lintels, it is great to see a family working together i didn’t always get on with my dad so that can be an issue he has passed away now, sometimes you just need your own space i would say stick with your dad as long as you can 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Absolutely fantastic information shared. Thank you !!!
You’re welcome, thanks for watching
Nice work men. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Great job well done guys
Thanks
Great lesson; thank you
Thanks guys ,super solid work🙏🏼👍😎✌️💥💥💥🍺🍺🍺
Thank you!!
I'm shocked found some good bricklayers on UA-cam.
Looks easy!
Brooooo. So much info. The techniques. The madd game. Thanks
💪
Great video. I am interested in seeing how the wire over the brick is done.
Great video mate, very informative
great video. Thanks
Lintels ;) nice workmanship btw
Thanks
very helpful- thanks for posting!
Great, thanks for watching!
Excellent video
Thanks!!
Good video man. I've seen a lot of people crying about that rebar. I don't see a problem with it. Roman structures sure have held up well without it.
Right
Great videos! Thank you for all your tutorials. Would love to see one on setting up corners with a transit and how you use your transit.
Of course. I will do that next corner I build. Thank you so much!!!
@@masonthemason6412 Put up poles & shoot the height...mark off on 8 inches...hang your line. Everybody gets out at the same time. Raise it again ,,repeat.
You do great work man
Thanks!
Nice work!😎👌👍
Good work guys keep up
Thanks
تحياتي لك صديقي العزيز إبداع
Great video
Love how you guys take the excess from the floor. So many people just leave it.
Always trying to be clean
Good stuff! THANKS
Of course!
Great video! Thanks!
Good job explaining...like the way you hammered in the rebar, i need to do that on my1st row block ...good to know, because I thought the guy forgot to dot it when the footing was poured
New subscriber from Davenport Iowa 👍!thanks for the video
Thanks for subscribing!!! You're welcome
@@masonthemason6412 what part of the country are you from?
Pennsylvania
Looking nice! 👍
Thanks!
Damn, I wish I could have a house built by folks like you, able to lay a straight vertical wall. My parents house looks like Ned Flanders house rebuilt by Springfield.
Thanx for the video.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!!!
This guys get down with the block
Nice job guys, i done a room by myself and it took me alot of time and work!
Nice!
@@masonthemason6412 keep up the good work
Thanks!!
Nice best block video ever. M
Thank you!
Looking good guys
Thanks Brian!
A.I. will never replace most trade jobs. I am now seeing so many pop-up tornados that I am doing similar construction in my strong Earth/rock laden wall western exposure with 2 1/2 car garage above, as no tornado can work past that 30 feet of Earth, etc., as for the northwestern exposure coming from western Alabama direction, (85% of bad weather comes from this direction) I have large blocks, as seen in this video. I am also going down three feet deep for concrete and block foundation. As a chef, butcher, professor, and author of now eight books and a guy who payed attention to my creative dad we build prior to me working through ten years of college as a tradesman and dad could do anything. Dad and I build garages, and dozens of rock and block retaining wall on lakes in Missouri before college. Pay attention to dad. So, I needed help with heavy loads on our mountain 1,200 feet on bluff in Hoover, Alabama very steep and they are hard working Mexicans, but some had NO training, (taught them these techniques shown in video. Always save and do not throw away concrete, but go back to plywood storage for mix. Mixture must be different for pouring into backfill and all block fill and if to thick it may not penetrate to bottom of rows. I stay on every aspect of work all day long and at almost 81 got into 6' by 8' floor, (total rock and combo good Alabama clay and dirt) to use a pick ax, rake and flat shovel to level down to 8' 3" ceiling prep area. The hundreds of rocks were used for back fill, as a under ground, in full basement with heavy concrete build and all brick facia we have an advantage over anything above ground and chose the correct corner to build. This takes times as your concrete at each stage takes time. Not like me breaking down 185 pound hide and four quarters of beef as a real butcher working though ten years of college including Ph.D., etc. We have a bill that will cover up to $2,500 of construction cost off your taxes, as I am a LLC, so check with your state laws to see how much they allow. Keep all bills and for sure write a contract and read it out to your company doing the job and date the contract and often they may won't up front cash and/or check but keep copies of all. Take pictures each day and either download or run off copies also for your tax file. Also, make sure when you design your shelter or safe room that it opens to the inside only, as in many cases even those full metal ones either two or four person shelter often open to the outside and most are going on slabs on grade level or in a garage and bolted to the concrete slab. Two weeks ago in Texas they had a large one pulled off the slab by a level 5 tornado and it was for sure a, "Wizard Of Oz" experience where it took off over five miles and all were killed. So, much for some above ground metal shelters, we looked at many and was not impressed with a metal door opening to outside where rafters come down in most cases and trap you. Go figure! I have one above ground shelter I built ten years ago, but felt it was time to go into the strong concrete wall construction and build yet another concrete filled with concrete, etc. I am running cable lines, ( was professor of radio, TV, communications, advertising/marketing) and may run 3d too. Also put a two or four plug electric line inside for fan, lights, TV, radio, with battery backup for all. It will be a nice place to watch the radar show bad storms with my wife of 55 years, racing over the neighborhood. On more important point, we can put easy four with chairs in the one I designed and build now, but make sure you drill at least six to ten holes in your concrete blocks for AIR, as you don't know how long you will be there. I plan on putting Galvanized steel wire to cover the holes so insects, etc., do not make home in my safe home. I am putting "Dry Lock" over outside and inside for any potential moisture issue, but my basement is 100% dry. Be sure about yours. Also, even though you think all is safe in your safe room take a battery powered concrete saw and a 16 pound sludge hammer just in case all your rafters cave into your door area. We have total battery power for all too, just in case of power issues. May not need it, but as seen in "Forrest Gump", Shit Happens, so be ready.
Nice vid. You guys make it look easy! I bet it ain't for a beginner, haha.
Took me a couple foundations to catch on
informative and brief.
Great Video. I need to come work with you guys for a week!
Nicely done
Thanks!
Great work.... Your wall looks nice man. Keep up.
Thanks!
Nice video mate
Thanks!!
Awesome video
good job guys
Thanks
Hi, I am new here, I have a question, to build a brick house, can I insulate the inside? I know Brick would be cold in winter. Also I am planning to put rocks the outside the walls. I am planning to build a tiny house but not on wheels. I going with brick because I thing is cheap
Thanks for sharing some great tips! Excellent video
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Tasty work ,you guys can read a tape here in florida a lot of the block guys use a Chinese tape window +door opening off by inches 👍
Yaw'll know your block business.😎👍
Thank you!!
Nice work!
Good job
If your plan calls for core filled walls, but you have used cap block where needed, how do you fill those cavities under the cap block? Do they just not get filled? Thanks!
Young crew!
7:10 I NEEEED A SAAAAW!!
Son unos artistas!! wow, me encanta como trabajan amigos👍
Do you think rebar would be necessary on block skirting around a mobile home? 4 courses high and will eventually be backfilled with dirt halfway up
I thought it was code to have rebar in footing, I like this method better good video.
Probably depends on job. As long as inspector ok's it. I prefer it this way because we don't have to figure out where the cores are gonna fall before we pour footers. So much easier to come back and drill them in
Need some epoxy in that hole.
You are right
@@stevenwilliamson4459 Why? Save money 😊
I butter my block before I lay them but to each his own but good looking job
Thanks!
How often do you lay wire, like like first and second course don’t have wire but the rest do? Thanks!
“Would you just look at it ?” 😂
Its all poured walls here now.. Hats off to you kids those blocks are heavy
Where you at? Thanks
@@masonthemason6412
I’m in Ontario Canada
Wire is every 2nd course? So the short rebar on the bottom is to anchor that course. You add a rebar down through the top course to the rebar in the bottom and fill with mud?
Yes
I have been watching all your videos and I was wondering how many cinders block a masonry person can lay down in a typical day. Thank you
Depends on the job conditions. If they are perfect and you have a laborer and someone pointing your block. 300. But that is In perfect conditions
where do you operate if I can ask???
What about those voids or empty spaces in the brick? Will the wall be strong?
How do you know you arent gonna end up having to cut a really small piece?