What I dislike about my Sniper EFI system and how to fix them!
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2020
- In this video, I touch on 3 things I dislike about the Sniper EFI plus a bonus useful tip. I run through the idle control system (IACV), the fuel maps, ignition maps, and touch on a strange and potentially useful idiosyncrasy of the electrical system.
These items will hopefully help you dial in your classic car's fuel injection system to help feel more like a factory setup. - Авто та транспорт
Great video. Fascinating really. I have a Chrysler with a mild 318 running an edelbrock 500 AVS carby. It runs that good that I think it’s as good as EFI! With the exception of the cold starts. But having said that my carby doesn’t run any choke either! I just feather the throttle for about a minute then it’s good. But I’ve read and heard many good things about the sniper systems.
Hey man awesome video; thank you!
I had the high idle rpm problem too, embarrassing at stop lights lol. I was able to fix it by spraying a little carb cleaner right at the IACV and then restarting engine. The problem came back once or twice but the same trick fixed it. I think the plunger is just a little sticky until it's broken in
The IAC issue was common to the 80's GM TBI system. It was called "Lost Step Stalling" condition where the ECM loses the "0" IAC location (all bypass air blocked). Adjusting the throttle plates too much doesn't allow the ECM to relearn fast enough (baud rate of the ECM to blame). The ECM also re-indexes the "0" when driven at a programmed steady no load rpm (above 30mph on the 80's trucks). I never turn the throttle plates more than a 1/8 of a turn when adjusting IAC counts and then (and this is the important part) WAIT for the ECM to catch up with the change. I like the warm IAC to be at 5 so this gives you a middle of the range for corrections made by the ECM.
Great video. I have a 70 'Cuda 383 that I bought in January and it has a Sniper on it. It was running super rich. The AF ratios were way out of whack so we got that worked out. It still doesn't love "around town" driving but it kicks ass on the open road. Not sure if this is a trait of these things but this one "needs" RPM.
It's probably the amount of fuel the system is giving and low rpm throttle tip in, throttle opening rate, or possibly the MAP sensor/vacuum reading. It can depend a lot on the cam profile, manifold setup, and how fast the butterflys open.
Just play with it a bit. My Mustang is actually a little too jumpy if I don't use adjustable linkage on the butterflys now.
I added a delay relay to keep the sniper on for 10 secs after ignition is powered off. Originally added this because my ignition voltage drops to 9vdc when cranking and the screen would go out and then it would reboot after the engine turned over, so now the handheld stays on even with the voltage drop due to power feed from the relay. Also, has the benefit of running my electric fan for little bit after I turn off the engine.
I like the creativity! I'm actually doing something similar, but with a relay to turn the system on when I open the door so it's finished with priming before I turn the key. If you don't put the key in before the timer runs out, it just turns the system back off.
The timing cliff might explain why my truck starts sputtering/pinging really bad when winding up to shift into a higher gear. Never did that with the old Chrysler ignition system. The sniper has less than 300 miles on it, so I will definitively be looking into that for sure. Should help it learn better it sounds like. Thanks for the info.
No problem. No harm in trying it out, just save backup file and you always have an easy way to undo anything.
Sniper on a 351w stroker was running great. Then after starting one day I noticed fuel smelling white smoke. Drove it, didn’t seem as good as before but ran, white smoke on decel.
for the timing table, check out holleys video on making a custom timing table on sniper. they show how to make a base table from scratch on the laptop to mimic a distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance
Thanks. I plan to make a new version of this video soon. I had filmed a lot of it before the Holley video was out and mine released a few months later. Theirs is a good basic starting point, but logging and tweaking is really important going that route and I want to show why.
Thanks for watching!
My sniper on a 351w based stroker in a 68 mustang runs good actually. My only complaint is the “tip in” feel. In other words the throttle is smooth while engine is off, but normal driving it almost feels like it’s sticking, hard to drive it smooth.
I had a few issues initially dialing in my tip in. Are you using the included 1:1 ratio linkage between the primaries and secondarys? That was one of my biggest issues. The others revolved around dialing in my pedal linkage and ensuring it had a smooth range of motion once I had realigned the rod.
Just installed linkage extension by holley, part# 20-16, problem solved, drives like a new car.
Do you have a dual-plane or single-plane intake on your engine? I'm asking because I currently have a dual-plane and I plan to install Sniper EFI onto my vehicle, but I hear the self tuning and fuel distribution have problems with dual-plane intakes. Holley says it doesn't matter, but I've read that a lot of people found better luck switching to single-plane intakes. Do you have any input?
I'm currently running a dual plane and it's working well enough for most street use but there are a few little gremlins. It was easier to tune on a single plane, but I wanted to see if I could get it working on a dual plane for the torque improvement.
@@AmbiVe Dual plane intakes don’t work well with the Sniper system.Fuel distribution issues will make it appear the system isn’t working correctly when it’s a combination issue. Too much impulse from the intake disrupts your fuel distribution on the sniper. Whereas a carburetor needs those impulses to meter correctly.
IACV - if you have a radical cam, it will continue to try to 'learn' and adjust the opening to maintain a smooth idle. But you say, the cam doesn't let it have a smooth idle, Holley says "screw you".... the way to solve that - turn off learning below 1800-2000 rpm. Be careful, if your cruise is below that range, it will cause you problems - point is, set that 'low' point as close to whatever your comfortable cruise is. For me, my car, in 5th gear, cruises 60 mph at 1900 rpm. My 'learn' function can only happen above 1875 rpm.
OOPS forgot to mention that I also installed a Hyperspark and timing is controlled by the Sniper.
I installed a Sniper on my 1979 International Scout II with the 345ci engine. Because of this being an International Harvester Motor, I am very limited in what I can do as far a my ignition goes, because I can't just stab a modern electronic distributor in it. I have my Sniper set up without timing control and have been using it like that for some time now. For about $150.00 I can get a kit to add a reluctor kit to convert my current distributor to work with the Holy timing control. Do you think it is worth spending the money?
If the engine runs well as-is, I personally wouldn't change things up unless you want to tinker with it for fun or try to squeeze every last bit of efficiency out of it. It can be time consuming to find the right curves or debug a change like this, and frustrating if it doesn't go smoothly.
If the package already isn't running as you'd like or you are looking to pull every last horsepower out on the dyno, $150 isn't a big risk.
Now that you got some time with the Holly EFI, how do you like it? Would you do it again? I have a 1970 with a 429, currently Carb.
I would definitely do it again. The only difference would be that I would think of it as installing a more powerful/configurable carb than a self tuning system. To get carb levels of performance isn't too difficult, but to unlock the full potential takes time and tinkering or a dyno.
Thanks for the video. I’m considering one for my 289 k code, but I’m apprehensive due to the dual plane intake comments. Curious what you think.
I have been running a dual plane intake on my 302 for a while now. It's possible to tune, but finicky. It was definitely more straight forward with the single plane.
I would just try to keep everything else the same except the EFI so you only have to dial that one portion in first. Then if you want the Sniper to control the timing or whatever you aren't chasing your tail tuning both.
I am having the IAC problem where the IAC and TPS both read 0% but it still leaks air. it looks like the secondary throttle blades are hanging open slightly causing a 1500-3000 RPM idle at times until the throttle is smacked. If that is not the case I am curios what else causes this problem.
It sounds like your throttle linkage or the linkage on the throttle body are hanging. If you disconnect the throttle pedal linkage, does it work by hand?
Thank you for this!! Can you offer any thoughts about how you fixed the IAC issue? I am having the same issue.
I'm not totally sure what fixed my IAC issue. I basically blocked it off with tape, set the mechanical opening to where the car would run and idle about where I wanted, then removed the tape and restarted the process. The problem of it hanging came back a few times and Holly asked me to lubricate it. I also cleaned up the wiring voltages with a PMU16. Something between the two seems to have solved it.
Oh and on IAC settings, the handheld sets it WAY too high (at least on my stock cam SBC). Follow the tuning guide document to set it properly before trying to tune anything else.
No one seems to be talking about how you should dial in your target AFR FIRST. The whole point of the learn table is to adjust base fuel in order to match target AFR. The handheld's initial base fuel calculation is just a "guess", at best, based on the simple engine input parameters. You really need to tune target AFR, to your desired application/driving style/goal, FIRST before merging learn tables. Any change in target AFR and the sniper will be "re-learning" Base Fuel + Learn Table = Target AFR. That is the equilibrium the Sniper strives for. In fact there really is no need to merge the learn table at all, ever, in the interest of tuning. There is one advantage to to merging/zero the learn table: it can help diagnose any future problem that might occur by helping identify excessive rich or lean areas the ECU things it needs to do. But merging the learn table does nothing to the system. It is just moving numbers from one side of the equation to the other. Simple algebra. But it certainly is not "tuning". Tune first by target AFR, then tune by AE parameters. Leave the learn table alone until target AFR is dialed in.
That is the key to merging your learn table and your base table. Once you have a good basic learn table, locking it into the base table gives you the ability to test for another period of time, check the variances, and then either continue modifications, disable the learning, or narrow the learning range to prevent errors as sensors age or suffer damage.
I also agree. Realistically, you shouldn't need to change target AFRs after you are generally stable, and if you want to adjust things, comparing the learn values to the base can be adjusted cell by cell rather than sweeping chart changes. This video is slated for a remake with more details and more explanation with fueling and timing. A lot of it would benefit from more explanation of purpose and tools.
Im using the hyperspark dist and coil, starts and runs pretty good but falls on its face for a second when you stab the throttle and IGN timing drops to zero, if I set it to static timing it runs like a beast! Even if I set all timing values the same it still pulls timing for a second on accel Maybe looking at the tables on a computer might help eh?
I would check the tables, check your TPS is reading correctly through the range, and check that your voltage isn't dipping. I would also double check that the timing on the gun matches what the computer thinks it is again to make sure the distro isn't loose or moved.
Wish you were in Florida, I'd let you install mine
It's not as hard as it seems and tinkering with them is half the fun 😉
Today im installing it on my 496 bbc in my airboat wondering about the oversized aluminum heads . Do i need to flag something to represent great flowing heads maybe tell the computer its a bigger engine or just let the system figure it out ?
There are options for variance in cam profiles, but head flow doesn't really matter other than when you go set base tables. Since an engine is just an air pump, you'll just need to picka profile to start that's close and then if you can get it running and let it learn. That will show you how far off the base map was and let you start getting fancy for better starting or optimizing the specific RPM ranges.
Great video. Whats a PMU16?
A PMU-16 is a power management unit made by ECUMASTER. It does away with fused and relays, replacing them with a programmable sold system. You can see the install and configuration in my previous video. Thanks for the question!
Hello ,does the new firmware update address any the issues u have brought up here?
Not that I am aware of. I will make a new video about these items in more detail as soon as I have time. The only thing I have noticed with the new firmware was for some reason I had to tweak my tune a little as I had a very slight run on with slow tip in and out. I was tuning in a bit more power and finally broke the transmission, so it has delayed the video update ;)
So, I'm trying to work through some challenges with my Sniper install. Here's some of the challenges that I'm currently having and some history. I'm not sure what your appetite is for this type of question, but here goes. The car is a 4 speed 1970 Gen II Camaro. What I know for the engine is: probably a 383cu.in SBC. It has a roller cam, Trickflow heads, an RPM Airgap manifold with 1" spacer. I do not have any cam specs but a month of fiddling with the Sniper and various testing would indicate that the cam has a lot of overlap. At 800 RPM the engine only develops about 7-8" of vacuum. I have tested for vacuum leaks and even replaced the manifold gaskets. The only vacuum port on the manifold goes to the brake booster and the Sniper ports are blocked off. Two different vacuum gauges confirm what the Sniper shows for KPa.
The good news is that it runs OK but I can't get it to idle well. I've tried all of the "tuning" tips on the IACV to no avail. Right now with the latest reset, the throttle position is about 2-3 turns off the stop but the IACV reading is about 50 after the engine warms. It will also stay above 2000 RPM when driving - sometimes it will return to my programmed idle speed (1000rpm) sometimes it stays about 2000 rpm until I blip the throttle or keep the engine in gear until it runs below 2000 rpm and then shift to neutral.. then the idle will return to the idle set of 1000rpm. BTW the engine seems to run quite rich at lower rpm and my VE table shows the same even though the AF ratio is set for 13.7 for idle.. 15.3 for cruise and 12.5 for WOT.
I think my question is how do I set idle and IACV to eliminate this problem? I have tons of other questions but I'd like to get that resolved first. OH and your above video indicates that I must transfer "learning" after each drive? I that correct (I'm using a laptop NOT the handheld)
I would do 2 things. First, tape over the IACV and adjust the idle the best you can to try to get it down around 5-10 warm after you remove the tape to hit your target idle. Next, check your power supply to the Sniper unit. When my power supply was not perfect, my IACV would do this same thing, and because it got better when I blipped the throttle I thought it was running related, but really it was power related. Occasionally it would even "stick" and read that it was 0% open but was physically wide open with a 2k idle.
I eventually solved the issue replacing m fuse block with a PMU-16 and rewiring everything to go through there, but you can probably solve yours just making sure your power source for the Sniper is from the battery and not from a dirty source on the alternator side or shared with other surge happy devices.
@@AmbiVe I have performed the IACV tape-the-opening and adjust the throttle routine at least 5 times - the last one yesterday. Everything is wired as Holley specifies - directly to the battery. I have a triangular marine battery connector on the post and the power to the Sniper is taken from 1 of the 3 posts on that connector. My alternator has been upgraded to a 14.4V system and the primary alternator wire has been relocated so it doesn't run along the length of the manifold and goes down the front of the block and only to the starter. My gauges and logs show 14.4 volts consistently. My log from yesterday shows 14.5 volts with about .2V fluctuation.
I couldn't drive it yesterday - it was raining - let me take it out and see if the problems persist while driving - they did in the garage.. And I'll try the IACV tape and set again.. maybe I'm doing something wrong.. I have also replaced the IACV just to be sure..
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.. I may have to take this to an expert but I would like to learn to tune this engine and spending $100's more kind of defeats the reason I chose the Sniper..
Mine never showed any voltage issues either, it just disappeared after the rewire and retesting. Where are you pulling your 12v switched power for the Sniper from and what are the speed settings on your IACV set to?
@@AmbiVe 12v switched power from a 12V Switched source in the aftermarket harness directly from the fuse block. Nothing else on it but what was your solution - PMU16? Who makes that?.
ECU MASTER makes it, but it's spendy. You can achieve the same thing for less, I wanted to eliminate fuses and base relays from my car. Is your battery still in the engine compartment with a short run to your fuse block? Are you pulling off an existing switched power feed?
If you reused an ignition freed on an old car, you may try adding your own relay directly to the battery, using the switched ignition to engage the relay, and feeding the Sniper off the battery direct output of the relay for it's switched. Sometimes the power through the old ignitions is unstable.
After smoothing the timing, if you make changes in the handheld do you have to go back in and smooth it again?
That seems to be the case. After my basic setup, I don't usually do much on the handheld for timing. The software is just so much easier to be exact with.
@@AmbiVe thanks for the info.
Getting ready to install Sniper on my 53 Chevy with a mild but fresh 327. What do you recommend for a Target AFR?
It's tricky, depending on where an O2 is installed it can read slightly differently and some engines like more rich or lean. I personally start out with the defaults and then usually add a little more fuel to see if it is happier under load. In the beginning, just get it idling well and use that to dial timing and cold start. Once you get it running, just drive it a bit so it can try to learn, but generally under 13.8 and over 12.5 seems to work well to start on most of the stuff I have tested.
Really appreciate the reply. I'm a few weeks out from starting the project so have been doing all the research I can first. For now i will just run the large cap Mallory HEI Dist so the unit will not control timing. really liked the idea to upload the learned fuel table to the base map after a while. Great idea!! i will keep you posted and may have a question along the way. Figure it will take the better part of a week to do as I am going to run all the wires/fuel lines as clean as possible and that will take some time.
Thanks again!
Derek
No problem. Enjoy your new setup and post back if you have questions or to let us know how it works!
@@derekvedenoff1021 I know its a year late but as a rule of thumb you want 12.5 in the wide open throttle section of the table, 14.0-14.7 in the cruising area (most of the table) and idle depends on what the engine likes most but 14.0 is a good starting point for N/A
I live 6-7kft in altitude. I don’t want to tune my carb whenever I go down the hill. Do you think this would be good for my application or should I look at another EFI setup?
It should be possible to get a pretty good tune with the MAP sensor based system. It would really depend on how much time at each stage of elevation you gave it to learn and how well you tweaked your AFR targets. Between the MAP, IAT, and O2 feedback, it should be able to handle the density changes. I haven't tested it with that broad of a swing, only about 0 to 3000ft so far.
AmbiVe Probably gonna swap out the rods and jets until I can pick up the Sniper. I’ve heard some pretty bad things about sniper and some pretty good things. Thanks for the response.
A lot of the good and bad of all the various throttle body injection systems comes down to how well they are installed and tuned. They should, in theory, always be better than a carburetor as they function the same but with better atomization, ability to adapt to temperature, air density, and fuel quality. Now, if the electrical system is 60+ years old trying to support it, intake system is blocked or leaky, etc, they can end up just as limited or worse.
AmbiVe I get that. I’m 20, so I’ve only been working on cars for the last three years. I like to read a lot about mechanical things and I grew up around old hotrodders and cert. mechanics but there’s still a lot to learn. I’m rebuilding the whole drivetrain on my 91 Camaro and I’m getting some help from my brother who’s a diesel mechanic, so I don’t think I’ll overlook anything that can be installed incorrectly. Last time I did that, I lit my car on fire because I was rushing to install my first rebuilt carb. Funny thing is my brother’s emergency fire extinguisher didn’t even work haha. I’m going to be going through all the electrical when I yank out the old v6.
Awesome, enjoy the process! You'll have to make some videos of the project.
i have a question not so much a comment. Is the system worth the cost? im not trying to re invent the wheel. A properly tuned carb, on a properly tuned engine can be highly effiecent but not as much as an EFI system. but i can get that accuracy from a stock efi. is the sniper kit worth the money, time and effort?
If you have a stock EFI, it will almost always be better than an aftermarket system as long as you are using the same stock components. As soon as you upgrade away from stock parts, you have to go aftermarket either way to really see the benefits.
@@AmbiVe i have a carb set now, sbc 355 with an edelbrock airgap manifold and an edelbrock avs carb 600cfm, mechanical 4 barrel. i still have return lines in place and the in tank pump for prorer efi presuure. for the carb im using an external electric pump from holley. so it will be an easy switch to a sniper kit.
but you skipped my question, is it worth 2500?
i could go back to tuned port injection with any brand aftermarket parts.
my question is it worth the money and time to switch it? or should i just put in the extra work of changing back to a stock tuned port or throttle body injection?
Wondering how this system works with 4 speed manual transmission
There wouldn't be any real difference between an automatic and manual in the basic tuning. Depending on your clutch setup and cam, you might tune the idle timing curve slightly differently to help during initial clutch clip/take off.
I have gone though two spark control modules since initial start. Starts perfectly idels fine, warms up and begins to learn.
Then it falls on its face and stutters itself to death. Turn the key after stall and nothing. Cranks but refuses to start.
After discovering that I had lost spark, (not do to the coil) the spark control module is dead. Same thing with replacement. Any ideas as to why they keep dieing?
What ignition system are you using? If it's the Holley Hyperspark, I will say that it is extremely temperamental to wiring issues, surges, and voltage drops. If something is actually killing an electrical component when the engine dies, I would think it maybe related to the overall wiring not running through the battery between the charging system and the EFI/ignition systems. If you tap into the wrap portion of the wiring process, surges that would otherwise be absorbed by the battery are allowed to ground through delicate systems like sensors or ignition modules and fry them.
The battery serves as a "shock absorber" for the whole system, so if the battery is not between the charging system and EFI/ignition, I would address that first. Second would be that it hates voltage drops, so if you're pulling power from an existing wiring pattern, it maybe that the voltage drops causing issues.
As far as the sputtering and dying after warming up, I assume what you are saying is that when the system is below the learn temperature, it runs ok but dies once it starts learning at 160F+? If that's the case, it could be a couple things. Your engine could just be difficult for it to learn on as it's very low vacuum or the engine is very intolerant to large changes in fueling. If that is the case, I would just adjust the idle up a bit and see if that helps keep it running while learning. Next, I would check to make sure the O2 sensor was good and that it's not attempting to trim too far and killing the engine off, although, the allowed range of adjustment within the EFI software shouldn't be that wide.
I would go step by step. Fuel, air, spark. If the system is running at any point, you know you have all three fine. If it stops running, one of them is getting out of whack. Moving the idle up and/or blocking off the idle air control port will help diagnose the issue down more.
I hope it helps! It's really hard to guess at what it could be without actually seeing the situation.
I'm using the duel sync msd and stock coil.
About it getting up to temp, it ran fine at temp for over 5 mins or so the the spark control module shit the bed twice. Same scenario.
I do need to correct the power and ground. Your first portion of advice seems to be right on the money.
72 Ford, 302 block with stock cam and coil.
Start with wiring, it's just cheap but annoying. Once you are certain it's sorted, move back up the chain. Change the fewest parts each time to make sure you don't make more work for yourself during the process 😉
Will do. Thanks so much for helping me.
Why is my snipper after sport 650km of driving decide to hunt at idle. If I move my TPS 2/3% it smooth out. ?????? I’m hopefully getting it tuned next week but just need to know so I can get it ready for the tune.
If it's hunting at idle it maybe an AFR or timing issue. It could also be your IAC being at a weird percentage, too low of an idle, etc. Mine would misbehave when I messed with all of the above.
Since it's only with low TPS, I would assume it's something specific to the idle portion of your tuning, which can be easier to narrow down. Good luck at the tuner!
Thank you for the quick reply. I’m a but Sus as to wether I have a small Vacume leak??? Would that do it.?
It could. Try putting a piece of strong tape over the idle air port so that the computer can't add air and see what it does. It should basically lock the idle to whatever the idle screw on the throttle plate is set to. If you can unscrew the throttle plate screw, air is coming from somewhere else.
Usually, vacuum leaks increase my idle rather than causing me searching, but you never know.
Do you have to have the USB cable or can I just pull the SD card from the handheld and transfer tune files back and forth that way?
I pull it back and fourth on the SD card and install the management software on my desktop.
@@AmbiVe So basically I don’t need the $50 USB cable?
@@ktga67ish Not unless you really like having a $50 cable on hand to lose ;) I just use the SD card myself, and I just leave it in the touch screen unit when I'm not making changes so that I can log data any time I notice something strange.
@@AmbiVe Sounds like a plan, thanks for the great advice. I should have my install wrapped up in a couple weeks. It’s going to control my N2O also so it should be fun!
@@ktga67ish You'll have to let me know how it does. I am really curious if the N20 functions work well... you know... for science ;)
How are these on passing an emission test?
They should be as good or better than a carburetor setup. Most of the applications I see them I stalled on are old enough they wouldn't need to be tested anyway, but I wouldn't see an issue unless there was a specific local requirement of original equipment or a diagnostic port.
Why the Rotary Engine T-shirt, Dude??? J/K, Good video.
I was considering this for my big cammed 427 sbc...but I think I'm cool and stick with a carb...way to many issues
Agreed!
My carbed Pontiac runs perfectly. I just hate the cold start ritual and want EFI for that alone. I’m just worried about opening a can of worms.
If you keep it simple, it shouldn't be a problem. The key is to do the homework and understand how it will work with your setup. The cold start and high altitude issues weed the most frustrating when the car was carbureted.
Cold starts with a carb are no problem if you have it all dialed in right. Timing, carb mixture, vacuum ect. Put an electric fuel pump on your carbureted car and save yourself the headache. You’ll thank me later.
Do you know if the laptop software is compatible with a Mac laptop?
I do not believe so. Not many of the tuning tools I have used offer versions for OSX or Linux.
@@AmbiVe Thanks for the answer. So, I guess I will have to buy or borrow a Windows based laptop.
Most of my machines are Windows machines just as a matter of having business machines, but I still usually buy cheap, light, laptops to use only in the shop. Something that won't make me too upset if I drop it, someone sits on it, or a car rolls over it 🤣
I thought this system and Super Sniper were "Self learning" so the dummy end user only needs to put in a few basic parameters?
They are self learning to an extent. They automatically build adjustment tables like other smarter ECU systems based on sensor feedback, but they don't do everything for you.
If all you wanted was a car up and running, they will make it easy. If you want to dial the system in to be closer to the quality of an OEM or expertly tuned standalone, they need intervention.
@@AmbiVe well heck. I have a 67 coupe /347 blower (Weiand 174), and looking at the Super Sniper maybe next year. Well I guess my hotrod shop/engine builder will get to do that fine tuning to get the full potential of my Mustang.
Sounds like an awesome build!
Would you recommend using the stock tank over the EFI conversion tank?
Having tried both, I think I would stay with the stock tank and external fuel pump unless forced to make the change. There are some good solutions for quiet external pump setups and can be easier to service and plumb.
@@AmbiVe Thanks. I was considering using an internal pump from Holley. Holley 255 LPH OE Style EFI Fuel Tank Modules
Part # 12-305. Have you considered this?
I too don't want to run the lines into the trunk.
I used an in-tank retrofit from Holley on my SR 240Z. If you search it on my channel you should see it. I think it worked well and was a high quality part.
Nice shirt. :)
Thanks for the video. This 9 year old learned alot. :)
Great video..This explains alot... I just purchased the quadrajet system along with the hyper spark for my 1970 olds 442-w30...It is running like crap according to my mechanic who installed it..I looked at your timing table at the end of your video and my mechanic says my timing goes from 8-degrees to 32 when wide open...There is no in between timing parameters..It just jumps from 8 to 32...He set the base timing at 8 degrees because that is what the factory spec's says in the engine compartment...Should this be set to the 15-degrees as per the sniper instructions????? PLEASE HELP!!!!! FRUSTRAITED HERE IN TEXAS....
The base timing can be different based on the engine. I'm not as familiar with the 442, but I would imagine 8 would be low, especially if you've changed anything to wake it up. I would try 12 or 12.5 and see how it does. If it's idling pretty lumpy, you might also want to make an idle valley to help keep it running down low (on my 280z I added a few degrees bump at around 500 rpm to help catch stalls).
It could also be wiring or fuel issues, so if changing the timing curve didn't help, start walking back through the system. Good luck, I hope you get it running better!
@@AmbiVe Thank you so much!!!
@@AmbiVe Just to be clear, i can only change the timing with holley down load software on it's website..It cannot be changed from the wizzard...
You can change it with the simple curve of a base timing and total advance, but to fine tune it, you need the software. At least for the Sniper combination.
@@AmbiVe Ok..So i think with the problem of back firing and timing advance shooting way up too early is thst the timing adjustment is not a gradual increase..
you really need to watch the timing table video from holley....
ua-cam.com/video/jDyA3yTeB5w/v-deo.html
So at the end of the day are you happy with the system or was it a waste of money
I am still happy with the system. Compared to other EFI conversions I have used, it's one of the best. I have over 10,000 miles on the Mustang with with the kit and other than tweaks and tuning, it hasn't has any serious issues.
@@AmbiVe well that’s good to know, I have the dominator sniper on the way and was scared that this was gonna be a nightmare, thanks for the reply
Excellent. Take your time and make sure your wiring is done well, it should work great!
thanks will wheaton lol
Hahaha, if only I was a successful child actor. I would have even more car projects than I already do.
Trying to figure out if Hyperspark is - and please don't laugh "ignition protected" for use on gasoline boats.
I went and did some digging, but I couldn't find anything either. I'm not familiar with the boat spec and everyone I know who uses something like it is doing so I'm open boat sport/race applications. Good luck on your hunt for info!
so basically just leave shit alone and youll be fine
The Holley Sniper needs to come with a warning: "You must have a mechanic riding with you at all times to maintain this system because it is crap!"
Sounds like most of the efi kits are junk.
You would have to define junk. Depending on your engine configuration, an EFI setup running poorly will still be as good or better than the average carb install. EFI or carb, setup and tuning are going to be required to get the most out of them. EFI in general just has more potential and ways to tune.
Sniper is unrepairable crap. Returned for refund.
MINE IS TO. WORKED WELL FOR A FEW WEEKS THEN RANDOM SREW UPS LEFT ME STRANDED 4 TIMES. WENT BACK TO DEMOND CARB KEEP IT SIMPLE .THEY NEVER WORKED THE BUGS OUT OF THIS BEFORE IT WENT TO MARKET . LET THE CUSTOMER DO ALL THER R AND D WORK.
Don't buy it there's your solution
Nice gentlemen. Presents well. But respectfully, does not know what he is talking about and should not be spreading mis information. IMO. Smoothing in a hand held would be danger.
What danger are you talking about and what do you mean by smoothing in a handheld? This is done in the Sniper EFI software. Cell averaging/smoothing is a common tool that is provided in many tuning systems. Depending on the application table and what values are being smoothed, it can only adjust between a narrow range, keeping it fairly safe... It's not extrapolating large value differences. Additionally, if you're smoothing your fuel tables, the learn table will again identify the difference from sample on the O2.
I have some questions about my Holley Sniper if you have time to talk I can send you my number. Thanks for your time