How to fix P2263 Acura RDX Turbo error code - repair/replace VGT actuator / waste gate
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 лис 2018
- Edit: parts are now about $60 on eBay, more info below.
Make sure to RESET/CLEAR YOUR CODES after install or it'll still show the code and be slow.
First gen (2007-2012) Acura RDX will sometimes pop P2263 and an SH-AWD error. There are different causes. Your dealer will tell you to install a new $7000+ turbocharger to fix it, because they don't sell the individual parts on the Mitsubishi made turbo that break down. You can often buy the parts and fix it yourself.
The most common cause is the VGT actuator wearing down. Some people call it the waste gate but that's not correct. It's made of a metal that is too soft. You can order the piece custom made from a machine shop for about $300 and replace it yourself, without removing anything from your car but the intercooler shroud. You'll need a couple 10mm wrenches, a couple screwdrivers, some wire (to prevent losing pieces), and some patience.
More info on this, and other P2263 causes and fixes, here:
acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-p...
Replacement parts:
My VGT Actuator was purchased from Southeastern Enterprises, lrt350@gmail.com or 905-320-5191 (owner is Darren Gauryletz). He's a Canadian fabricator that makes the part from scratch from a slightly harder grade metal than OEM, so it shouldn't wear like the original. Mine was $300, prices are dropping though.
Others have had luck using Ebay for about $60. Search for "Acura RDX Turbo Variable Flow Actuator Eye Bolt." I'm not sure if the threading fits all RDXs. Make sure it's good metal (mine is 4140 and threading is m6x1.0 left hand). Too soft and it'll wear again; too hard maybe it'll damage/wear the linkage.
OEM part (will likely wear down): search for "49389-18470 U.S.A." - Навчання та стиль
Found this in 2023, and I can verify it works! My 2010 RDX only has 100k on it but was throwing the code, Acura only suggests turbo replacement since they don’t actually make the turbo. Found this part on Amazon for $20, took me an hour to replace. Thanks for the video and helpful tips.
Hey @brandontarby3793, could you share the amazon link to the part you purchased please? Thank you.
Please share amazon link please
Just finished this repair today. I highly recommend removing the heat shield (3 - 10mm bolts) that sits just below this area as it gives you access to the retainer that holds/inserts into the hole of the actuator part that you are replacing. It is spring loaded and when pulled back assists in attaching the new part. Hope this helps.
Going to jump into this repair soon. I appreciate your tip
Our 2010 RDX with 190K miles has a P2263 code, check emission error, SH-AWD error, and CEL lights on. I have been driving with the code for a few months and finally replaced the actuator last weekend ($17 on eBay). Took 2 hours and I had to give up on the C-clip, as I couldn't get it in. I felt the actuator is tight enough w/o the C-clip, plus it's very easy to re-tighten, if ever needed. The code and CEL are gone. Thanks for the video, still useful 4 years later.
You have a link to the actuator used?
Wish I read more comments before attempting this tonight. I removed the intercooler after starting to get frustrated. That itself is not a big job, 3 bolts, 5 hoses, and an electrical clip.
I used, for lack of a better word, a grabber (push button on the end with metal grippy fingers on the other end) a lot. It helped me get the new part and clip positioned correctly for installation. I used fishing line for holding the clip and new part, however the old parts did just fall to the floor since I didn’t bother to toe them up. Don’t know how I could’ve. The wrench I dropped did need to get fished out.
Other worthy mentions would be how I used a 12mm wrench on its side about at the halfway mark on the linkage to pry it back enough to get the part on. This took maybe 30 mins to finally get the new part on there. Once I figured this out got it 2nd try.
It’s really tight in there. If you have huge hands it’s gonna be tough. My hands are too big for this kind of work, and they’re only a large glove lol. Good luck.
Thanks a bunch for this, we all gotta stick together to fight these exorbitant dealer service charges!
Haha so true we just got back from said dealership who said our 2007 rdx turbo was out. 10 grand to replace
I just got an RDX and it has this exact issue - so glad I don’t need a new turbo!
Removing the 5 bolts and couple hoses on the intercooler, and pulling it out of the way would make this decades easier...
I very much appreciate this post and am glad you took the time to do so. I just picked up my rdx a few months ago, could not diagnose the emissions/awd codes for the life of me, saw this video, and found that it looks like my vgt piece too has a gap. Will be either trying to replace it myself when it comes in tomorrow, or having a mechanic friend do it next week, but you are a god among men if this fixes my problem. Much appreciated!
Did it fix the problem?
Matt great post, I took some time about 3 hrs yesterday to swap this widget out. It was fiddly and the most difficult part was getting the c-clip back in place. A lot of patience is required and a handy left hand at times. I used 22 gauge jewelry wire which was probably not strong enough in hindsight. I made one mistake in that I unscrewed the collar leaving the widget loose which made getting the wire through the widget way more difficult than it would have been if I had got the wire through first. I did not need to use vice clips, I just gently pulled up on the wire to get the new widget to mate with the rotating collar.
Thank you for the video. Bought the part on eBay and it completely fixed the issue. Was able to get my car to pass inspection. It was a bit of a headache getting the new part installed since the clearances are so tight, but definitely worth the effort. Thanks again!
Any tips on getting it in? Having a lot of trouble?
@@fishtheory7529 if you pull the lever arm on the waste gate all the way up, it should give you more clearance to get the part on. If the lever is pushed down, the turbo body gets in the way. It's still very tight so it takes patience and some effort.
Do you have a link to the part please?
I have the same issue on my 2011. After seeing your video I found and ordered the part on ebay today for $49.99. ( Acura RDX Turbo Variable Flow Actuator Eye Bolt)
I put the new actuator eye bolt on my car and it solved the problem!!!!! I was able to get my car inspected the same day. Thanks for your help.
Roderick Harris did it fix it?
Yes it did
Thanks Matt. Great video, wanted to add a few things to help with this install...
I did not put a wire around the old part. It fell down as I pulled it off and landed underneath the car, so not a lot of worry for people for having it lost in the engine. The old part will rollover so the threaded part is facing down since it's out of round and that makes it difficult to get off. A wire would have helped immensely
I DID put a wire around the new part just as you did and it certainly made it easier. Holding the new part is impossible while trying to get it on the "dowel"
The old "c" clip can be partially pried off with a Teeny flat head screwdriver and then you can use a needle nose to get it out. Otherwise it will surely go flying
Wrapping another strong wire around the pivoting arm that the dowel is on and having someone pull that (away from the car) is essential to get the new part on. Otherwise there isn't enough room for it to slide over the end of the dowel. You only need to put enough tension on the arm to clear a millimeter or two and it slides on easily.
you talking about the hole it has to go in? that thing is hard? or my eyelet is the wrong size
thank you!! 3 years later and still very useful...FYI the price came down to $30
Awesome! 3 years later and the codes never returned for me.
@@mattmuller1353 guys i need help with this. my car has the same code. bought the car today with 62k miles. really in need of help. NJ-USA
@@dipusultan7060 check the Acurazine thread in the description if you need more help, those guys are good
Awesome work bruv! I think mine is the same issue, I checked this morning and gave it a good wiggle, it's for sure loose and I can see a small gap
Great video my friend, thanks for posting it!
Great video. Bought a piece from amazon, it did not fit - it was too small. The ad showed a brown vgt bolt for about $32. Do not get that one! Sent it back amd bought one from ebay for $59.99 and it came with an extra clip. Marked actuator thread and it took about 8 full turns to get the old bolt off. Put the new vgt bolt on and re-tightened 8 turns. No more CEL or SH-AWD. Note: the new VGT bolt slid right on easily, you just have to wiggle it around to align it.
Thank you so much for this video! I replaced the part today and it fixed the issue and she’s running like new again!!! 🙏🏽
how hard to press into the hole?
@@cali_cal the only part that was hard was getting the clip back on. I ended up making a tool out of a wooden dowel and got it back on by pushing on the dowel.
Did the codes go away right away? Did you clear the codes after? My wife's car now talks longer in her drive for the sh-awd, check engine and check emissions lights to come on but I'm thinking the computer will realize the problem is fixed after a couple cycles. Like a bad gas cap maybe?
@@YogiB118 code whent off right away. the clip is a bitch tough
A few things that will make this PIA job easier: needle nose vice grips, curved hemostats, mechanic pick. I think the actuator lever has to be in the up position to remove/add the eye bolt so having a wire around the end of that to hold it up will help you get the new part on. It also helps lift the new eye bolt into the threaded barrel.
it does but the lever can move sideways and bend a lil bit by prying on it with a flathead lightly. make sure to have magnet ready and dental floss putting it back on omg i dropped it 5 times into the abyss lol
That is awesome. My daughter's car has the same problem, I was able to tighten the existing nut to keep the codes clear but I know it's only a matter of time. Thanks for the link!
If you kept both sides connected to that barrel nut, and simply twisted it, it's not going to fix it because the two bolts that connect from both sides are still the same distance apart. If they're both still threaded in when you "tighten", the barrel just moves farther down but the two bolts stay in the same spot.
@@mattmuller1353 can you clarify? my mind doesnt seem to understand this
@@STAN3072 The barrel nut, which you are twisting to "adjust", has threaded bolts coming in to the top and the bottom from the different parts it connects. When you twist the barrel nut without first disconnecting one of the sides, you're not actually tightening anything - the barrel nut moves down the threads of one side while moving up the threads of the other. The two sides are staying the same distance from each other. That's why to actually adjust the gap, you have to disconnect one side, then twist the barrel nut, then reconnect the other side to actually change the size of the "gap" between the two pieces held together by the barrel nut.
@@mattmuller1353 Hmm, Matt, When I adjusted the barrel nut it make a difference four months ago and has worked ever since, so I must say it does work for the short term. It was a chronic problem when we bought the car (6 months ago). I have since ordered the part, received it and today am GOIN IN! Wish me luck!
Let me clear that comment up. The adjustment of the barrel nut made all the difference in that we never got a code again until just recently. Thanks for the video and the link to Darren, it makes me think I can do it.
Great video and comments here. Just finished this repair. Took me about 8 hrs across 3 sessions. Patience is key, it’s easy to get frustrated with the limited access and light. Study closely the intake runner on the backside in relation to the actuator arm travel; I found there was a sweet spot where the eye bolt would slip behind and the angled corners on helped with clearance. Get a small bright flashlight.
Here’s what worked for me. I’d definitely remove the turbo heatshield first thing in retrospect. I wired the actuator arm to finagle the eye bolt off and on, but limit it’s travel to the top 1/3 or so. That was the sweet spot for me removing and installing the eye bolt. Wire the new eye bolt and C clip. I dropped them countless times.
Feel around on the back for the C clip and rotate it with your finger or small screw driver where the tall spot (check some pictures) is on the left side of the eye bolt. I slipped a small screw driver between the clip and eye bolt and pried it off. I hadn’t wired it and at the time I didn’t care.
The eye bolt slipped off and pushed out horizontally to the right with the threads on the right, while wiggling the actuator arm up and down.
I slid the new eye bolt in from the right side with the threaded post pointed roughly 2-3 oclock while moving the actuator arm to find the right gap between the lever and the intake runner behind. It’s tight but mine eventually went. Doing it one handed was tough. Patience. I greased my eye bolt as well which made it tough to hold.
Replacing the C clip was tough. What eventually worked for me was using needle nose vice grips to hold the clip on edge and push it on from the left at about 10 oclock angle. I had to reuse the original clip. The new one was just too stiff to push on all the way.
As far as repositioning the barrel and lock nuts, loosening the lock nut made about 2.5 rotations to the bottom. The barrel nut about 8.5 rotations up to free the eye bolt. When I reinstalled, I used the wire on the lever to pull up to meet the barrel nut. After starting the barrel nut to hold the whole thing in place, I turned the lock nut 2.5 turns up and then turned the barrel nut down to meet it. Luckily when the barrel nut met the lock nut, the factory marking was in the same place as before (at least that is what I’m telling myself).
How important is the c clip? After removing the old part I noticed it didn’t have one so I skipped putting a new one on. I reset the computer and so far so good after about 15 miles
@@bobbye4731 I suppose it's possible the eye bolt would slip off the post of the actuator lever (it's been a while) over time. Too, having the clip on there would limit any small movement of the eye bolt that could increase the wear on the eye and waller it out quicker. I'd reinstall just for any insurance not to have to do that job again.
@@ericskaggs3503 unfortunately the check engine came back on. I’m thinking to put the c clip on this weekend and giving it another go. Do you happen to know the exact reason this part fixed the issue for so many and why worn pieces caused an issue? I’m trying to figure out the concept behind it which will help me fix it. Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks for the video. Your solution seems to work.
Great video. Thank you.
I been having this trouble i ordered the new piece but putting this and the clip on after has been troublesome. Any tips to putting it back together?
I’m definitely going to try running it without the c-clip. It’s practically impossible to get back on.
Any tips on installing the new piece? Cant see to get it in
Would this problem cause what I would describe as a hesitation/loss of power for a split second (repeatedly) during lower rpms under hard acceleration? No codes.
I have the same problem mine was snapped so def bad and changed it but light still on ?
Hey quick question i don’t have the clip is it needed ? If so do you know where i can get one. Thanks
thanks ever so much . dealer wanted to replace turbo
This is why we call dealers stealership
@@vkhiev Acura themselves do not sell just that part. it only comes together with the new turbo so dont blame the dealerships.... cant sell something that isnt offered from manufacture. Some dealerships (mine does) do offer to replace just the arm with an aftermarket part
Thank you much
Matt, as you already saw from the comments, your video really helped a lot of people out. I wanted to thank you and everyone who left useful feedback. Without all your help it would’ve been impossible. But one question Matt, how did you figure out this part would be a fix for the turbo problem? 🙏🏼
Acutazine forums, link in description. People had been paying thousands to replace the turbos for years until they figured it out
I was having trouble getting the threads to line up square and I ended up having to pry the wastegate actuator a little bit to get it started, they then aligned as they were tightened together and the length was shortened. Also, mine did not have a C clip on it and I did not put one on, I will try to remember to update if/when it fails. I only got 300 miles on it so far, it runs much better and no check engine light.
mines didn't either or maybe it fell? how hard did you have to press for the eyelet to go in?
Hey Fellow Acura people, I just had a curious question. I'm going to have a mechanic install this part for me. Is it better for me to replace the whole control flow actuator or just the screw?
Thankful for posting this video, Where to get that “ring bolt”? Can you put the link where to get this part please?
The video description has all the info you need to order the VGT actuator (the part I replaced). Cheers!
hey matt how did you fit that bolt back on? seems like the only reason the old one could come off was because it was so worn. does that part that the eye bolt goes on tighten or loosen?
I put the new actuator on, then thread the collar down onto it. As I mention in the video, make sure the collar doesn’t spin freely a bunch trying to get it to thread or your adjustments will be out of whack when you get it tightened down. As it spins “freely” it’s actually adjusting the gap size between the actuator and the actuator arm so you don’t want that to happen.
My 07 rdx turbo only goes up to 1/4 of the boost help 😢
I couldn’t get the clip on do y’all think I’ll be fine?
My car have the same problem but It these make the car use a lot anti-freeze Bc mine is using doble as normal as well
Hi this video is exactly what been happening to my 2010 rdx. I got the exact code. The car drives extremely slow now and struggles to accelerate? Is my issue the actual turbo or this small part replaced??
It could be. Take a look to see if there is a gap/worn area on the old part. The description has links to threads discussing that and similar problems. This isn’t always the fix but often is.
Thanks for the video Matt. My lady's RDX that we bought just over a month ago came up with this code. Do you know if the ebay ones are good? There are 2 forsale. One at 39.99 and another at 59.99.
Not sure. The spec I got was 4140 and m6x1.0 left hand thread. It think 4140 is one grade heavier metal than OEM which is probably just right. Too hard and you might wear the other parts.
I’ve heard some models have different threading
If u were successful could u give me some advice.
I bought the one that was 59.99, swapped it and the boost is back! Code gone.
@@TheDarkRican can you email me by chance and explain the entire process. My husband cannot seem to get the old one off.
@@TheDarkRican we bought one as well but he spent hours and was unable to get the old one off to put the new one on. This video doesn't show that part so we dont know where to turn
Freaking awesome, thanks! Seems like there are two different measurements for the opening of this part, what year was your RDX and what was your measurement?
The openings have different measurements? I'm not really sure to be honest. I've read .585" before. Something else to note, my threading is M6x1.0 Left Hand. Rarely, you will find an '07 RDX with M7 threading.
@@mattmuller1353 yeah, post #249 says:
"I have another question. A poster mentioned the dimensions of a part being rebuilt as an M7x1 with a .585" opening. What year vehicle did that come off?
The measurements from the part I pulled off a 2008 is an M6x1 with a 15.25mm opening. Perhaps Honda's short term fix was just a larger part on the newer year models?"
@@DavidSnyder3B Doubt it, the fix should be a grade of metal that won't wear down over time. Bigger or smaller part I'd imagine wouldn't matter... but the size change maybe indicates they moved to a new part which hopefully is a better grade metal.
Can you say that majority of the time that the actuator is the issue with the turbo and not the whole turbo...im having a similar issue with mine now? Thanks.
It seems like it. Not always though. See the forum thread in the description.
Como. Se llama. La pieza
What’s up bro, quick question. I have engine code p0234 which is wastegate overcharge I replaced turbo which now I regret doing because same engine code is still on!!! Any suggestions?
Not sure offhand. I’d search the acurazine forums for that one.
Hi Alex I know it’s been a year since you posted this question but did u figure out the issue. I have the same problem. Thx in advance
Marcel Willoughby yes, it turned out to be a solenoid that needed to be replaced. After fixing it the RDX ran great.
@@alexrojo7008 what solenoid is that? Any part number? Thank you
Hey everybody,I have also had this issue with my 2007 Acura RDX.I went to two shops and both of them told me that the turbo had to be replaced.The first shop first said that the solenoids were bad but then they told me that the wastegate was bad and that the turbo had to be replaced.The second job straight up told me that the turbo was bad so I blindly got suckered in into replacing the turbo.I couldn’t justify spending $5,000 on a turbo from a dealer so I got a new turbo from autozone for $1,700.The turbo also comes with a 3 year warranty!!!! The first shop wanted $1,000 for labor but the second shop quoted me $520 so I went with the second shop.Unfortunately even after I replaced the turbo overboost code still came up which had pissed me off.Two bad diagnosis caused me to waste unnecessary money.If a brand new turbo hasn’t fixed the issue it’s definitely the boost solenoids causing the issue.THERES TWO BOOST SOLENOIDS which I had picked up for $90 each from the dealer(dealer only part).I just got the part and I’m taking it to another mechanic who is Acura/Honda specialist and the price to replace it is $140+ tax.That price is a lot better than what others quoted me.I’m soon taking it to replace the solenoids after I just picked them up.Hopefully the issue goes away because I already spent a ton on this car.This car is pretty expensive to maintain and parts are pretty expensive as it is for the car unfortunately.Hopefully it won’t come to the point that I have to sell it because I love this car.It’s hard to sell a car that I love so much.Btw if anybody is having this issue please replace the small parts and get it looked at by a good specialist Acura mechanic.I went to a top end shop and even their bad diagnosis caused me to spend a lot of money.Btw if the wastegate goes bad you have to replace the whole turbo unit as it is.I hope this helps everybody!!!!
Anyone know how many turns that actuator bolt needs to be turned? I think I loosened mine too much and still get the same engine code after replacing.
Someone else mentioned about 8 full turns.
@@mattmuller1353 From full tight or from fully out?
@@tonywillingham8109 its in one of the older comments. I couldn't say but I assume after 8 complete turns it came off the threads entirely
I own a 2007 acura rdx, and its giving me the same code, and it says check engine emissions system, will this fix it??
Sometimes. Check the description, there's a few causes. Check to see if there's a gap in the ring or a rattling sound... if so, this will probably fix it
@@mattmuller1353 like a ratting sound that happens after you let off the throttle ?
@@Username_8886 That is what mine sounds like, not really coasting but right after I let my foot off the accelerator. My emissions warning just went off recently too, so hoping this is a realistic solution, since my first estimate was "you need a new turbo"
Veggie8886 did you ever figure out what this sound is? My car makes the same exact sound.
I had these codes, bought the part, got my garage to do the replacement but it did not clear the issue!?!?! very, very disappointed. Wondering if there is something else I can try?? also wondering about driving with this condition?
Check the description... it can have several causes, I'd go read the Acurazine thread for further troubleshooting. Or maybe the piece you had installed is out of adjustment. (just twisting the barrel nut won't actually adjust it, you gotta take it off, adjust the nut, then thread it on again)
@@mattmuller1353 ah ok about the adjustment . . . not sure I can get them to do that but will try. And yes, I did see that there are other causes so will investigate those too, including replacing the solenoid as suggested by someone on this thread. thanks very much for getting back to me and wish me luck on the journey to clear this up!
@@kellymitton5510 did you ever solve your issue ?
@@MeezyPeezy nope. I did have my garage install the part but no luck in fixing the issue. I have been driving around with the alerts and luckily have had no issues but am worried something will one day blow! any other suggestions?
i have the same problem..
I am also getting the same error on my car. But I don't know how to fix it I am looking for someone who can help me.
I live in Worcester, MA please let me know if anyone can help in fixing this error of my car.
How the heck did you turn the clip on the back? Cannot get mine to budge. That part about “don’t keep unscrewing the barrel”, that would have been good info at the beginning, not the end.
My clip wasn't too difficult to spin around with a screwdriver. Maybe try taking off the intercooler for easier access?
And yeah, the barrel info would have been nice to provide earlier, but I was figuring this out as I went.
@@mattmuller1353 The key is to spin the clip before you attach any containment wires. The wire may bind it up.
@@tonywillingham8109 how hard was it to even get the eyelet in? mines was straight parallel with it but wouldn't go in
@@cali_cal If you mean get it screwed into the wastegate, I used the wire I attached to the actuator arm to lift the eyelet up into the wastegate. Without that wire to put upwards force on the eyelet, I think it would have been much more difficult.
Replaced the part, still getting the code, any other suggestions?
Maybe unthread it, adjust the threaded collar, then thread it back on? Otherwise I'd check the description and the forum thread in it for more suggestions. This isn't the only cause, but it is the prevalent one.
FWIW I read on Acurazine that you need to clear the code ... disconnect neg battery terminal for 5 minutes, that should clear any codes. Then see if it comes back. Know it's been 7+ months since your post, but hope this helps.
How the hell did you get the new piece on??! 😭
Twist the barrel backwards a little to get it to seat on your new piece's threads, then screw it down. Don’t just keep going backwards forever until it seats though... need to keep the barrel's position roughly the same. Go back and forth a bit until it seats. Otherwise it could be incorrectly positioned (too high, or too low) when you're done.
Was this making car run poorly or just throw a code?
Threw p2663, SH-AWD code, and lost power like it intentionally detuned the engine.
If anybody can help me where can I get this Park please
Check the description, I've kept the info up to date there
I just did this today. Car runs better but still have check emission and sh-awd lights on.
Need to reset codes after you're done
@@mattmuller1353 does pulling out the clock fuse for 30 seconds work on '08 model? I tried pressing gas pedal for 30 seconds with key in position 2.
@@pattibrandt9430 I don't remember. I didn't use fuses. I think the manual might have some info?
@@mattmuller1353 I disconnected battery for five minutes. Codes are gone! Thanks so much for posting this video. I'm a 58 yo mom and I did it by myself with your video and a ton of patience. Took a little over five hours.
How did u remove the c clip
Spin it around until you can see it. Run a wire through so you don’t lose it. Pop it off with a screwdriver
did you remove it?
Where can I find this part?
Check description for options
Where can i buy that piece.
Check the description, I've kept it up to date there.
does the code away?
Code never returned
Really hard to believe the guy wants 200$ plus shipping. I have a machine shop making one up 1/4 the price.
It was 300 when I bought it. I didn’t have another option at the time.
@@mattmuller1353I just purchased this part for $80. Hope it works. Thanks for the video!
Why did u not show the actually getting it off or getting on... 🤦♀️
Because I had to use both hands?
@@mattmuller1353 I just really REALLY needed to see that part. My husband spent hours trying to get it off.
He got so frustrated with it that he gave up. And I have to continue driving it that way. I am assuming that is also what is causing the SH-AWD light to randomly come off and on... I am just worried and dont have the financial means to take it to a shop.
@@jessicaross323 Check out the 1:50 area again, loosen the bottom nut (counter clockwise) then the top nut (clockwise). Maybe he needed to take a screwdriver to pop off the c-clip shown at 3:00? The c-clip will hold it in place even after you remove the nuts. Getting the c-clip back on was a pain and just involved a lot of lining up and pushing hard.
Maybe remove the intercooler to make things easier?
@@mattmuller1353 I will give those tips to my husband. I am not sure what all he removed or did not remove. He had originally found your video and watched it but from what he was telling me last nite he didnt have room to get it it off and was afraid that if he forced it the new one would never go in. Maybe he needs to take a bunch of stuff off to make more room for himself. I also asked for help in the rdx FB group but everyone there made it out to be a super simple task. Idk what he is doing wrong lol
every mechanic and dealer wants anywhere from 2500 to 5000 to replace the turbo for this 28 cent part
Dealer quoted me 7500
@@mattmuller1353 just be patient take off the intercooler and when you take off the c clip on the variable valve use dental floss doubles up looped incase it drops like it did on me 5 times my eye bolt and clip dropped alot lol. also that eye bolt is reverse threads ok. and use locktight so it doesnt back off next time
use 2 10 mm open ended wrenchs skinny kind thin ones to really get the eyebolt and double locking nuts back down tight. if you dont get it tight it will just back off and strip out again and again
once you get the c clip grab a medium pair of channel locks like the 10 inch ones adjust it to about inch and half open slowly gently get them in the and methodically squeeze the c clip on. if you fail no worries you have dental floss to try again fish it out repeat untill its done
now that you got that done. get the eyebolt standing straight up perpendicular with female threraded allthread part already attached to the underside of the valvebody the spring is inside that. guess what. you can spin that inside spring by turning the screw underneath take that 10mm wrench and you gonna wanna turn in counterclockwise ok while holding pressure on the lever and eyebolt upwards towards the treads. take your time make sure its threading in smoothly youll feel alittle resitance but its shouldnt be cross threading. make sure it looks straight threading in. right before your almost done threading it in put some red locktight on the whole things and lock it all done tight. now put the intercooler and intake back on and drive away. like i did in about 25 minutes