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Removing the 5 bolts and couple hoses on the intercooler, and pulling it out of the way would make this decades easier...

I couldn’t get the clip on do y’all think I’ll be fine?

I am also getting the same error on my car. But I don't know how to fix it I am looking for someone who can help me. I live in Worcester, MA please let me know if anyone can help in fixing this error of my car.

Como. Se llama. La pieza

Thank you much

Our 2010 RDX with 190K miles has a P2263 code, check emission error, SH-AWD error, and CEL lights on. I have been driving with the code for a few months and finally replaced the actuator last weekend ($17 on eBay). Took 2 hours and I had to give up on the C-clip, as I couldn't get it in. I felt the actuator is tight enough w/o the C-clip, plus it's very easy to re-tighten, if ever needed. The code and CEL are gone. Thanks for the video, still useful 4 years later.

Found this in 2023, and I can verify it works! My 2010 RDX only has 100k on it but was throwing the code, Acura only suggests turbo replacement since they don’t actually make the turbo. Found this part on Amazon for $20, took me an hour to replace. Thanks for the video and helpful tips.

Thanks for the video. Your solution seems to work.

Matt, as you already saw from the comments, your video really helped a lot of people out. I wanted to thank you and everyone who left useful feedback. Without all your help it would’ve been impossible. But one question Matt, how did you figure out this part would be a fix for the turbo problem? 🙏🏼

I just did this today. Car runs better but still have check emission and sh-awd lights on.

My 07 rdx turbo only goes up to 1/4 of the boost help 😢

I just got an RDX and it has this exact issue - so glad I don’t need a new turbo!

Awesome work bruv! I think mine is the same issue, I checked this morning and gave it a good wiggle, it's for sure loose and I can see a small gap

Wish I read more comments before attempting this tonight. I removed the intercooler after starting to get frustrated. That itself is not a big job, 3 bolts, 5 hoses, and an electrical clip. I used, for lack of a better word, a grabber (push button on the end with metal grippy fingers on the other end) a lot. It helped me get the new part and clip positioned correctly for installation. I used fishing line for holding the clip and new part, however the old parts did just fall to the floor since I didn’t bother to toe them up. Don’t know how I could’ve. The wrench I dropped did need to get fished out. Other worthy mentions would be how I used a 12mm wrench on its side about at the halfway mark on the linkage to pry it back enough to get the part on. This took maybe 30 mins to finally get the new part on there. Once I figured this out got it 2nd try. It’s really tight in there. If you have huge hands it’s gonna be tough. My hands are too big for this kind of work, and they’re only a large glove lol. Good luck.

Great video and comments here. Just finished this repair. Took me about 8 hrs across 3 sessions. Patience is key, it’s easy to get frustrated with the limited access and light. Study closely the intake runner on the backside in relation to the actuator arm travel; I found there was a sweet spot where the eye bolt would slip behind and the angled corners on helped with clearance. Get a small bright flashlight. Here’s what worked for me. I’d definitely remove the turbo heatshield first thing in retrospect. I wired the actuator arm to finagle the eye bolt off and on, but limit it’s travel to the top 1/3 or so. That was the sweet spot for me removing and installing the eye bolt. Wire the new eye bolt and C clip. I dropped them countless times. Feel around on the back for the C clip and rotate it with your finger or small screw driver where the tall spot (check some pictures) is on the left side of the eye bolt. I slipped a small screw driver between the clip and eye bolt and pried it off. I hadn’t wired it and at the time I didn’t care. The eye bolt slipped off and pushed out horizontally to the right with the threads on the right, while wiggling the actuator arm up and down. I slid the new eye bolt in from the right side with the threaded post pointed roughly 2-3 oclock while moving the actuator arm to find the right gap between the lever and the intake runner behind. It’s tight but mine eventually went. Doing it one handed was tough. Patience. I greased my eye bolt as well which made it tough to hold. Replacing the C clip was tough. What eventually worked for me was using needle nose vice grips to hold the clip on edge and push it on from the left at about 10 oclock angle. I had to reuse the original clip. The new one was just too stiff to push on all the way. As far as repositioning the barrel and lock nuts, loosening the lock nut made about 2.5 rotations to the bottom. The barrel nut about 8.5 rotations up to free the eye bolt. When I reinstalled, I used the wire on the lever to pull up to meet the barrel nut. After starting the barrel nut to hold the whole thing in place, I turned the lock nut 2.5 turns up and then turned the barrel nut down to meet it. Luckily when the barrel nut met the lock nut, the factory marking was in the same place as before (at least that is what I’m telling myself).

Just finished this repair today. I highly recommend removing the heat shield (3 - 10mm bolts) that sits just below this area as it gives you access to the retainer that holds/inserts into the hole of the actuator part that you are replacing. It is spring loaded and when pulled back assists in attaching the new part. Hope this helps.

Would this problem cause what I would describe as a hesitation/loss of power for a split second (repeatedly) during lower rpms under hard acceleration? No codes.

I’m definitely going to try running it without the c-clip. It’s practically impossible to get back on.

Where can I find this part?

Hey Fellow Acura people, I just had a curious question. I'm going to have a mechanic install this part for me. Is it better for me to replace the whole control flow actuator or just the screw?

Anyone know how many turns that actuator bolt needs to be turned? I think I loosened mine too much and still get the same engine code after replacing.

every mechanic and dealer wants anywhere from 2500 to 5000 to replace the turbo for this 28 cent part

Can you say that majority of the time that the actuator is the issue with the turbo and not the whole turbo...im having a similar issue with mine now? Thanks.

A few things that will make this PIA job easier: needle nose vice grips, curved hemostats, mechanic pick. I think the actuator lever has to be in the up position to remove/add the eye bolt so having a wire around the end of that to hold it up will help you get the new part on. It also helps lift the new eye bolt into the threaded barrel.

How the heck did you turn the clip on the back? Cannot get mine to budge. That part about “don’t keep unscrewing the barrel”, that would have been good info at the beginning, not the end.

I was having trouble getting the threads to line up square and I ended up having to pry the wastegate actuator a little bit to get it started, they then aligned as they were tightened together and the length was shortened. Also, mine did not have a C clip on it and I did not put one on, I will try to remember to update if/when it fails. I only got 300 miles on it so far, it runs much better and no check engine light.

How did u remove the c clip

Great video. Thank you.

thank you!! 3 years later and still very useful...FYI the price came down to $30

Thank you so much for this video! I replaced the part today and it fixed the issue and she’s running like new again!!! 🙏🏽

Thanks Matt. Great video, wanted to add a few things to help with this install... I did not put a wire around the old part. It fell down as I pulled it off and landed underneath the car, so not a lot of worry for people for having it lost in the engine. The old part will rollover so the threaded part is facing down since it's out of round and that makes it difficult to get off. A wire would have helped immensely I DID put a wire around the new part just as you did and it certainly made it easier. Holding the new part is impossible while trying to get it on the "dowel" The old "c" clip can be partially pried off with a Teeny flat head screwdriver and then you can use a needle nose to get it out. Otherwise it will surely go flying Wrapping another strong wire around the pivoting arm that the dowel is on and having someone pull that (away from the car) is essential to get the new part on. Otherwise there isn't enough room for it to slide over the end of the dowel. You only need to put enough tension on the arm to clear a millimeter or two and it slides on easily.

Was this making car run poorly or just throw a code?

Why did u not show the actually getting it off or getting on... 🤦‍♀️

hey matt how did you fit that bolt back on? seems like the only reason the old one could come off was because it was so worn. does that part that the eye bolt goes on tighten or loosen?

does the code away?

thanks ever so much . dealer wanted to replace turbo

Matt great post, I took some time about 3 hrs yesterday to swap this widget out. It was fiddly and the most difficult part was getting the c-clip back in place. A lot of patience is required and a handy left hand at times. I used 22 gauge jewelry wire which was probably not strong enough in hindsight. I made one mistake in that I unscrewed the collar leaving the widget loose which made getting the wire through the widget way more difficult than it would have been if I had got the wire through first. I did not need to use vice clips, I just gently pulled up on the wire to get the new widget to mate with the rotating collar.

Great video. Bought a piece from amazon, it did not fit - it was too small. The ad showed a brown vgt bolt for about $32. Do not get that one! Sent it back amd bought one from ebay for $59.99 and it came with an extra clip. Marked actuator thread and it took about 8 full turns to get the old bolt off. Put the new vgt bolt on and re-tightened 8 turns. No more CEL or SH-AWD. Note: the new VGT bolt slid right on easily, you just have to wiggle it around to align it.

I been having this trouble i ordered the new piece but putting this and the clip on after has been troublesome. Any tips to putting it back together?

Hi this video is exactly what been happening to my 2010 rdx. I got the exact code. The car drives extremely slow now and struggles to accelerate? Is my issue the actual turbo or this small part replaced??

Matt Muller this video is no longer available www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkJNK...

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I had these codes, bought the part, got my garage to do the replacement but it did not clear the issue!?!?! very, very disappointed. Wondering if there is something else I can try?? also wondering about driving with this condition?

How the hell did you get the new piece on??! 😭

My car have the same problem but It these make the car use a lot anti-freeze Bc mine is using doble as normal as well

I have the same problem mine was snapped so def bad and changed it but light still on ?

Any tips on installing the new piece? Cant see to get it in

Thank you for the video. Bought the part on eBay and it completely fixed the issue. Was able to get my car to pass inspection. It was a bit of a headache getting the new part installed since the clearances are so tight, but definitely worth the effort. Thanks again!

Thanks for the video Matt. My lady's RDX that we bought just over a month ago came up with this code. Do you know if the ebay ones are good? There are 2 forsale. One at 39.99 and another at 59.99.

I have the same issue on my 2011. After seeing your video I found and ordered the part on ebay today for $49.99. ( Acura RDX Turbo Variable Flow Actuator Eye Bolt) I put the new actuator eye bolt on my car and it solved the problem!!!!! I was able to get my car inspected the same day. Thanks for your help.