No problems! I think I've about shown everyone most things on how to get a 2 Stroke Victa running now, however is there anything that you would like to see out of interest? Cheers Drew
I reckon you’re covered everything. I enjoy all your videos - cars, mowers etc - Your logical approach to tackling issues is a joy to watch. Good on you Drew!
Hi Drew, Informative video. I have same mower with the external ignition module. When I measure the module resistance between terminal ( wire connected ) and casing my reading is 8.71K Ohms. When the black wire is removed from the module terminal the resistance between module casing and module terminal is 5.41K Ohms. I notice in the video you didn't remove wire from the module terminal to record resistance. What's the correct reading protocol to confirm component serviceability?
Gday Drew from a wet and soggy Sydney Town.....Really enjoyed your video.....I wonder how much that would cost at your average mower repair shop? What other reasons would you not get spark? How much would the updated coil cost? I have exactely the same mustang 18 with chrome handles...Ya gotta love the grey chassis and orange cowling...Its a Victa classis....Thanks mate learn something new from your videos every time.
Hi Gary, thanks for all of your support and good to see you again! I honestly don't know what an average mower shop would charge for this, but I would guess by the time they purchased parts and put their labour into it, it could be well into a couple of hundred dollars. This is what I think is the primary issue with people throwing out these older machines, because you can go to Bunning or Aldi and see very cheap Chinese import mowers for not much more ... I think I even saw a special at Aldi the other day for a complete mower for $249!! But, we know that properly repaired these VICTAs will far outlive the Chinese imports!! Me personally, I just love playing with these old VICTAs, from my perspective they are an example of excellent engineering that did not keep up with modern regulations and probably intergenerational business planning, but happy to hear others perspective? Cheers Drew
average NZ mower shop here 60-80 odd dollar coil 75 labour. Its a pretty quick change, blade then four bolts dont need to disconnect carb so on. then its the shield between block 2 bolts for coil then all in reverse. i loved the old 2 stroke victas so easy to diagnose and repair
Hi Mate, there are three things you need 1/ Spark, 2/ Fuel, 3/ Compression have you checked these fundamental things? Given this is the video on Spark, here is a video on Compression ua-cam.com/video/IszfKHWiFG8/v-deo.html have you watched this one? Please report back to us, so we can help you? Cheers Drew
Can you do a video on how to check for over revving and how do we know if our machine does it. Also when turning the fueltap off it revs high just before turning off I heard it was a bad crank seal that does this
Hi Mate, good to see you again! This is normal for them 2 rev up just before turning off when turn the fuel tap off. What is happening is that because their is minimal fuel left in the carb the mixture leans out at the last moment before shut off and thus causes it to rev high. I have heard people say that this is a reason not to turn the fuel off at the tap, because they rev high at the same time as starving the engine of the oil in the fuel, however I don't buy into this as I have always done this and so has my father and grandfather (when he was still alive) and never had any issues! Additionally, whenever I have opened up the crankcase on Victa 2 Stroke they are always .... well lubricated!! In terms a of a video on over revving, happy to do another video! Can I suggest grabbing a cheap Taco (amzn.to/3LIr2cK) and then watching a couple of my existing videos on this topic? This one is specifically for over revving because of seals: ua-cam.com/video/UTFARaiNojE/v-deo.html This one is how you can fiddle with the governor spring inside the G4 Carby to adjust the revs: ua-cam.com/video/-xARDzg8kLw/v-deo.html Good luck and let us know how you get on? Cheers Drew
a check to do is with mower off throttle to fast there is a hose from base of engine to carb pull block end off and suck on it if vacuum exists carbs good check starter oring or manifold orings then bearings if all else fails. but if carb doesnt vacuum pop main carb endcap ensure diaphragm is seating right and hasnt pulled in then resal revacuum test.
What a legend. This video is brilliant. The explanation of the two different ignition module types was a God send.
Nice video. Brings back memories when I worked for a Victa main dealer in the UK several years ago.
We still get a few victa mowers in for repair in the uk were I work, but the parts are very expensive if you can find them
Good info - appreciate you quoting the resistance for the two types of modules. Great job as always.
No problems! I think I've about shown everyone most things on how to get a 2 Stroke Victa running now, however is there anything that you would like to see out of interest? Cheers Drew
I reckon you’re covered everything. I enjoy all your videos - cars, mowers etc - Your logical approach to tackling issues is a joy to watch. Good on you Drew!
@@mirellafalso6112 thanks mate!! Cheers Drew
Excellent video.
bloody good bloke cheers to ya god bless dude
Hi Drew, Informative video. I have same mower with the external ignition module. When I measure the module resistance between terminal ( wire connected ) and casing my reading is 8.71K Ohms. When the black wire is removed from the module terminal the resistance between module casing and module terminal is 5.41K Ohms. I notice in the video you didn't remove wire from the module terminal to record resistance. What's the correct reading protocol to confirm component serviceability?
Gday Drew from a wet and soggy Sydney Town.....Really enjoyed your video.....I wonder how much that would cost at your average mower repair shop? What other reasons would you not get spark? How much would the updated coil cost? I have exactely the same mustang 18 with chrome handles...Ya gotta love the grey chassis and orange cowling...Its a Victa classis....Thanks mate learn something new from your videos every time.
Hi Gary, thanks for all of your support and good to see you again! I honestly don't know what an average mower shop would charge for this, but I would guess by the time they purchased parts and put their labour into it, it could be well into a couple of hundred dollars. This is what I think is the primary issue with people throwing out these older machines, because you can go to Bunning or Aldi and see very cheap Chinese import mowers for not much more ... I think I even saw a special at Aldi the other day for a complete mower for $249!! But, we know that properly repaired these VICTAs will far outlive the Chinese imports!! Me personally, I just love playing with these old VICTAs, from my perspective they are an example of excellent engineering that did not keep up with modern regulations and probably intergenerational business planning, but happy to hear others perspective? Cheers Drew
average NZ mower shop here 60-80 odd dollar coil 75 labour. Its a pretty quick change, blade then four bolts dont need to disconnect carb so on. then its the shield between block 2 bolts for coil then all in reverse. i loved the old 2 stroke victas so easy to diagnose and repair
Hey Drew always love you videos and I've been working on one but still can't get it to fire up for some reason. Any advice??
Thanks mate
What’s wrong with it
Hi Mate, there are three things you need 1/ Spark, 2/ Fuel, 3/ Compression have you checked these fundamental things? Given this is the video on Spark, here is a video on Compression ua-cam.com/video/IszfKHWiFG8/v-deo.html have you watched this one? Please report back to us, so we can help you? Cheers Drew
@@victasmowing9617 it just won't fire. Ive watched all your other ones trying to work out what is wrong but to avail.
Can you do a video on how to check for over revving and how do we know if our machine does it. Also when turning the fueltap off it revs high just before turning off I heard it was a bad crank seal that does this
Hi Mate, good to see you again! This is normal for them 2 rev up just before turning off when turn the fuel tap off. What is happening is that because their is minimal fuel left in the carb the mixture leans out at the last moment before shut off and thus causes it to rev high. I have heard people say that this is a reason not to turn the fuel off at the tap, because they rev high at the same time as starving the engine of the oil in the fuel, however I don't buy into this as I have always done this and so has my father and grandfather (when he was still alive) and never had any issues! Additionally, whenever I have opened up the crankcase on Victa 2 Stroke they are always .... well lubricated!! In terms a of a video on over revving, happy to do another video! Can I suggest grabbing a cheap Taco (amzn.to/3LIr2cK) and then watching a couple of my existing videos on this topic? This one is specifically for over revving because of seals: ua-cam.com/video/UTFARaiNojE/v-deo.html This one is how you can fiddle with the governor spring inside the G4 Carby to adjust the revs: ua-cam.com/video/-xARDzg8kLw/v-deo.html Good luck and let us know how you get on? Cheers Drew
👍
a check to do is with mower off throttle to fast there is a hose from base of engine to carb pull block end off and suck on it if vacuum exists carbs good check starter oring or manifold orings then bearings if all else fails. but if carb doesnt vacuum pop main carb endcap ensure diaphragm is seating right and hasnt pulled in then resal revacuum test.