Great work making these to help people. Big thing you missed besides the axle stand is that you didn't preload the suspension before doing up the bolts. They way you've done it, they will fail again sooner than you expect. You need to jack up the lower control arm to compress the suspension back to where it would sit if it was on the ground with a wheel on and then tighten the bolts. This aligns the bushes so they don't end up getting over flexed like they way you have done it.
With Nolathane bushes you dont have to worry about suspension preloads they swivel on the locked up centre pin in a lubricated bush. All rubber bushes you have to set at the right angle because they swivel on the rubber itself eventually destroying it.
This is 100% do able. Me and a mate did it today. What old mate didn't show us all was the shitfight getting the bolt out and getting it back in. It actually went back in a heap easier than it came out. We had a hoist and workshop tools on hand which made it easier but only slightly.
Great Video. Simple and straight to the point . Using everyday tools. If you replace any other rear end suspension components on the BA Falcon please post them. I am intending to replace 3 different components on my sons xr6 Ba Falcon. Its a real help.
Had a look at another bloke doing the same things, (Front) But bloody hell, was getting dizzy watching. Flicked him off real quick. YOU, Great stuff Matt, Hope you'll do other vid's of front bushes also. TOP Video buddy, Thanks for the upload
x2 on having the vehicle at ride height before fully tightening retaining bolts( either put a stand under the control arm or put the wheel back on and lower it to the ground)... if bolts are tightened with suspension "hanging", the bushes will over flex and possibly tear when you hit a bump on the road... if not just from lowering the vehicle to the ground and normal ride height. Another option with removing the inner bolts that are against the fuel tank is getting a reciprocating hacksaw and cut the head off the bolt and replacing it with the nut end against the fuel tank.
assuming its the same but on a FG, took me an hour just to get that bolt out near the fuel tank !!!!! I had to smash it out hoping i dont hit the fuel tank with my bar !!! and there was NO WAY, it was going back in the same way, I had to cut the bolt about 10 to 15mm and put it in from the other side where there is lot more room. i recon there is more room on the BA/BF.
There looks like there is no room at all to get the bolt out with the fuel tank but it is doable yeah. So putting the bolt back in the other way works?
Hey mate great video (love the leverage trick), did my own driver side not a problem, however I’m stuck with trying to get the top mounting bolt on the passenger side out as it seems impossible to get it out with the fuel tank in the way How much force did you use to wedge the tank as I fear I might damage mine if I wedge it any further (was pushing about 50-60% pressure myself) I don’t know if it makes a difference mines an FG but everything has been exactly the same as the BF/BA Cheers!
So where do you actually place the wedge to allow for more working room to get the top bolt out? Your video makes the top bolt removal look easy. How do you actually do it?
Great work making these to help people. Big thing you missed besides the axle stand is that you didn't preload the suspension before doing up the bolts. They way you've done it, they will fail again sooner than you expect.
You need to jack up the lower control arm to compress the suspension back to where it would sit if it was on the ground with a wheel on and then tighten the bolts. This aligns the bushes so they don't end up getting over flexed like they way you have done it.
With Nolathane bushes you dont have to worry about suspension preloads they swivel on the locked up centre pin in a lubricated bush. All rubber bushes you have to set at the right angle because they swivel on the rubber itself eventually destroying it.
This is 100% do able. Me and a mate did it today. What old mate didn't show us all was the shitfight getting the bolt out and getting it back in. It actually went back in a heap easier than it came out. We had a hoist and workshop tools on hand which made it easier but only slightly.
Great Video. Simple and straight to the point . Using everyday tools. If you replace any other rear end suspension components on the BA Falcon please post them. I am intending to replace 3 different components on my sons xr6 Ba Falcon. Its a real help.
Had a look at another bloke doing the same things, (Front) But bloody hell, was getting dizzy watching. Flicked him off real quick. YOU, Great stuff Matt, Hope you'll do other vid's of front bushes also. TOP Video buddy, Thanks for the upload
So it can be done without dropping the cradle. Thanks mate.
x2 on having the vehicle at ride height before fully tightening retaining bolts( either put a stand under the control arm or put the wheel back on and lower it to the ground)... if bolts are tightened with suspension "hanging", the bushes will over flex and possibly tear when you hit a bump on the road... if not just from lowering the vehicle to the ground and normal ride height.
Another option with removing the inner bolts that are against the fuel tank is getting a reciprocating hacksaw and cut the head off the bolt and replacing it with the nut end against the fuel tank.
Cheers mate, very well shown and explained 👏👏🤙
Thanks helpful video
Could you do a video on replacing the lower control arm ?
Do Uppers every go bad ? as in has anyone seen the balls on the uppers wear or the bushes crack or sag heaps ?
You try to give the video more brightness it will be great if you do
Thanks for the feedback I’ll keep that in mind
when explaining you should detail what size spanners you use :)
Mathew do you have any other BA falcon rear suspension arm removal videos I could really use help.
assuming its the same but on a FG, took me an hour just to get that bolt out near the fuel tank !!!!! I had to smash it out hoping i dont hit the fuel tank with my bar !!! and there was NO WAY, it was going back in the same way, I had to cut the bolt about 10 to 15mm and put it in from the other side where there is lot more room. i recon there is more room on the BA/BF.
There looks like there is no room at all to get the bolt out with the fuel tank but it is doable yeah. So putting the bolt back in the other way works?
Hey mate great video (love the leverage trick), did my own driver side not a problem, however I’m stuck with trying to get the top mounting bolt on the passenger side out as it seems impossible to get it out with the fuel tank in the way
How much force did you use to wedge the tank as I fear I might damage mine if I wedge it any further (was pushing about 50-60% pressure myself)
I don’t know if it makes a difference mines an FG but everything has been exactly the same as the BF/BA
Cheers!
Very very tough make sure whatever you use is somewhat wide to evenly put the load you have on the tank
@@matthewxerri867 sweet I’ll give it a go cheers 🤙🏻
So where do you actually place the wedge to allow for more working room to get the top bolt out? Your video makes the top bolt removal look easy. How do you actually do it?
Have the same problem with my fg, how did you get on getting it out with the fuel tank there?
Great video
Hey man what sizes do you use for the control arm
On the bolt side inner 18 ml