We Build Our First Stealthburner Toolhead!
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- UPDATE 7/24/2022: This video is now outdated. The Stealthburner has left beta and a few changes were made.
We have a brand new, much more detailed video for you here - • The Stealthburner Is H...
In this video we go through assembling a Voron Stealthburner from nothing, including the Clockwork2! We then attach it to a Voron 2.4
-- Chapters In This Video --
0:00 Intro
0:08 Heatset Installation
1:06 Fan Modification
1:37 Carriage Assembly
2:05 Probe Installation
2:24 Driveshaft Assembly
3:05 Mount Extruder Motor
3:23 Assemble Latch
4:05 Forgotten Heatset
4:17 Fasten Cable Cover
4:53 Connect Chain Anchor
5:02 Trim Bridge Supports
5:11 Install Part Fan
5:26 Install Lights
6:23 Install Hotend Fan
6:31 Assemble Hot End Housing
7:07 Install Toolhead in Printer - Наука та технологія
WOW. This whole Stealthburner was a big ??????. No more questions after watching. Thanks for getting to the point. Great Job!
Good job boys! You've inspired me to purchase a 3d printer!
Hi Ryan! Enjoy the new hobby!
@@MapleLeafMakers your mom!
Nice build, super clean prints. I’m going to use this video as a walk through if I print this version. Do you have a parts list by chance of what you used listed anywhere?
Thanks! I recommend following the latest manual too not just our video, this wasn't really intended to be a video manual or anything like that.
We used the BMG Extruder kit (same as afterburner),
The stepper motor is a LDO36STH20
The fans are GDSTime
Great video,
What’s the stuff in the syringe used on the driveshaft?
Great video! Helps me a lot in some parts of instalation. I have a question to the video about "Heatset is missing" 4:06 part. Current beta manual nothing mention about putting any screw and bras inserts there. (CW2 Main body beta 11). What should be there and what is it purpose?
Another question is for part 6:05 Two bras inserts on the right side of hotend. What is the purpose of them? I did not found any proper part that can fit there. Thanks!
Glad you're finding it helpful! That screw is used to adjust the minimum spacing between the extruder gears, as seen here: user-images.githubusercontent.com/34219833/155484746-fd3ebe8b-fb63-4732-93e6-a2b54ff8adbc.png
The 2 threaded inserts next to the hotend are used to for the ADXL mounting bracket.
@@MapleLeafMakers Fixed - Thank you!
What did you build your heat set tool out of ? I see there are heat sets as the mating surface....smart!
LDO Ships that tool with their kits.
Thanks for the vid, very instructional. I'm deciding if I should install the Xol toolhead straight away before bothering with the stealthburner as it's kind of an unnecessarily huge and heavy behemoth that bogs the printer performance down at almost 500 grams. I know people say to do the build stock at first before any mods.
printer performance isn't measured in grams, don't let the hardcore gram-chasers get in your head. the toolhead weight is unlikely to be your speed bottleneck.
@@MapleLeafMakers Everything counts. The weight is an important factor, the Y axis is like 1150 grams stock. With the parts I have ordered it will be 600 grams and also stiffer so there will be a difference for sure. It's not about absolute speed, it's about printing high quality at a higher speed and weight is very important for that but yes the other parts need to be good as well.
super clean prints! what material is it?
Thanks! The toolhead, and nearly all of the parts in this video were printed in CF-ABS from 3d Printing Canada.
whats the distance / length of the ftpe tube extending out of the hot end
Hi Steve. We needed 11mm above for the cw2. Thanks for the question!
Your gantry backer for your X axis should be on the back of the rail, not the top. :)
Very good eye! You are absolutely right. This is a relic of the R1 days. Soon we'll be doing a teardown series when we rebuild the 2.4 with a number of new mods and the rest of the R2 upgrades!
Very nice video. The only feedback I have is that the back of your hand covers up what you're doing quite often. Maybe find another camera angle so we can clearly see every step.
Thanks! We're working on it all the time trying to get better angles. The recent videos are starting to get much better now.
Hi sir may i know how to make the stealthburner logo red colour and the nozzle 2 led white colour during start printing ? Any sample cfg can let me copy and use ? Thank you so much
There is an example config for the stealthburner leds here: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/Firmware/stealthburner_leds.cfg you should be able to just change a few color values to get what you're after.
Where can I get the tip you use for brass inserts, I found one but it was only for an M3?
What was the filament you used for the Stealthburner, I have some PC-CF and some PETG-CF but I suspect ABS-CF might be more suitable for the Stealthburner.
The tip we used for threaded inserts is made and sold by LDO -- it only works for M3 as well. Adafruit sells a similar tool without the adjustable depth and has separate sizes for M3 and M5.
This Stealthburner was printed entirely in ABS-CF From 3DPrintingCanada.com, but PC-CF is also a good choice. I would not recommend PETG-CF.
@@MapleLeafMakers I think I will get the LDO one and the Adafruit M5 one also, they are probably better than the one I saw on Ali Express
what filament brand your using?
The toolhead, and nearly all of the parts in this video were printed in CF-ABS from 3d Printing Canada.
The Stealthburner's engineering should be protected at all cost for a lifetime
What did you guys put on the grub screw of your extruder gear?
Grub screws need some sort of thread locker. We've found that using a good clear nail polish works just as well!
Sicer settings for printing the parts? Supports? Fan on?
We use ellis' profile for the speeds etc. The CF-ABS is printed at 260, bed at 110, no supports and always use fans for abs! In this case it was around 35-40% with a SB.
Well done Video!
Would you mind answering some Questions about the SB?
Thanks! I can try to answer questions. I would also highly recommend joining the voron discord and asking in the afterburner channel!
@@MapleLeafMakers Thank you! I've been in the voron discord (mostly Switchwire), can't say I'm fan of discord.
is necesari change hotten?? original ender 3 v2 ?
If you wanted to put this on an ender 3, yes, I believe you would need a new hotend, I don't think the stealthburner has support for the creality-style hotends.
@@MapleLeafMakers thanks :)
works with stock hotend ender 3 v2?
If you wanted to put this on an ender 3 then I believe you would need a new hotend, I don't think the stealthburner has support for the creality-style hotends.
@@MapleLeafMakers what is your hotend? Its a nice upgrade? Make difference?
Thats an E3D Revo Voron, great hotend.
4:06 - MIssed the same one. I don't believe it's called out in the current instructions.
I don't think it was either that's why we chose to include the footage of our mess up! Hope it will help others.
@@MapleLeafMakers What screw do you put in there?!
We used an M3x6 button head here, but I *think* the current recommendation is flat-head now.
@@MapleLeafMakers I'm not completely sure what this even does to be honest. It seems like it limits the closing force on the filament?
That screw is for Adjusting minimum spacing between gears with no filament loaded. Doc posted a list of instructions on discord for how to tune the SB in now using this screw + tensioner.
excelent fan mm?
4010 Axial for the hot end, and 5015 Blower for the part-cooling fan.
@@MapleLeafMakers thanks 👍
The position of the inserts when attaching the extruder to the assembly, there are a fail from the designer.
why is it blushing
That is actually an aura of pure filament meltage. it's an easy mistake to make.
@@MapleLeafMakers im talking about in the thumbnail the shiny red thing in the middle above the fan
That's a neopixel, it's a standard part of the new stealthburner toolhead, you can see it installed here: ua-cam.com/video/GspIPzO3FJ8/v-deo.html
Because it's embarrassed.