Відео

Hey! I'm glad you liked the video. We generally try to stay clear of electronics configuration since there are so many different options to cover. There's too many variants of motors, voltages, fans, thermistors etc for us to accurately cover so we just skip it and steer our viewers towards the documentation. If you have any specific questions about it feel free to ask though!

There are several variants (PG-7, etc. in the GitHub now.)

when I received a message from the postal service that the parcel with the extuder was at the post office, the melody from your video started playing in my head it scares me little bit🤣

Also is the bed polarity matters? both of the wires are red coming of the silicon, how can I tell which is which?

Sorry, I've not used this script in Orca. It's indeed very strange that it works in PS but not in Orca. You may want to try getting help in discord! There's some genius' in there that will be able to figure out what's going on.

I'm not sure that I'm understanding correctly, make sure your tensioners are all the way backed off, if it's still pulling too tight then let out some teeth on your belts maybe?

@@MapleLeafMakers That's really helpful. I was able to get it in the end by carefully pulling each idler back. Perhaps I cut my belts flush with too little slack. Appreciate the response!

No problem 👍

Absolutely it does! What kind of problems are you having? Make sure you have enough tension and turn your speeds way down to start at least!

@@MapleLeafMakers currently I'm not even using CW2 but I read about problems with TPU. Thanks

I think some people have experienced some issues if they are really pushing the speeds. For our speed-demon builds, we'll be leaving tap off but not so much because of the stability as much as the weight. We don't push speeds a lot on our tap machines, but it seems fine at 15,000 accels / 350mm/s anyway.

In most situations, I'd pull the rail, remove the cartridge, give it an ISO bath and de-grease the rail before applying fresh. A lot of people don't do this though and you will go 1000+ hours between having to re-apply under normal conditions! Enjoy your build!

The manual does show a lot but having somebody show exactly how to connect certain parts helps. I love Lego manuals, for example, but some people have trouble visualizing the orientation of some assemblies and this video solves the same problem.

Hey! This printer is set up just like our other Vorons, except with a little extra acceleration and speed! Unfortunately we haven't published our profiles for this, no. It's basically a stock orca 2.4 profile though! Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot! Updated.

Almost everything in this video is CF-ABS from 3d Printing Canada. Thanks for watching!

@@MapleLeafMakers Dope! Also would you guys be releasing a build series or something to help with the formbot micron kits?

Never say never, but we don't have any plans in the immediate future.

Yes, soon

Depending on which kit you have this has changed a lot over the years. The CB1 and Manta M8P have made things a little easier but for the most part it's the same as the 2.4!

We try to be concise! Thanks for watching and glad you found it helpful!

Thank you!

In this case, it did. I believe that's mostly up to the vendor though.

@@MapleLeafMakers stroke of luck cause Fabreeko state on their site that the MCU is not included in their micron kits. Wonder if they dropped the price to accomodate that?

A maker with a cheap soldering iron? I think if you have to solder more than 20 joints the next five years an at least temperature regulated soldering station is mandatory. You won't regret for sure. You build an 1000$+ 3d printer and don't want to spend a few bucks for some proper tools?

@@snooker216 i literally have 2 wellers and a hako, i ended up buying a pinecil, my question wasnt, whats the best cheap soldering iron you can get? What I asked was essentially " are there any cheap options for a ts101 style soldering tip that could reach that insert without butchering the 3d printed parts" essentially, which I found in the pinecil

@@michaelmills3898 Then I misinterpreted your question. Personally, I actually use my Weller soldering tip because there is usually no contact with the printing material. A temperature close to the printing temperature and it works, at least for me, without ruining the soldering tip or the printing part.

Glad you found the pinecil! It's a fantastic tool.

The blower fans are spliced together into a single fan header (typically). Some of the newer toolhead boards have 3 fan headers with 2 shared so you don't need to do this either! Hope that helps.

@@MapleLeafMakers interesting and thanks for sharing

@@MapleLeafMakers can you please share newer toolhead boards names if possible

the same for me... Have you solved?

Me too, I've tried everything.

@@a.nonamoose I had the wire plugged in the wrong spot on the umbilical pcb and plugged it in to the right spot and that fixed it.

Have you reached out to LDO for a replacement? That's definitely not normal.

What would you like to have seen on it? They were nearly identical graphs.

It's so hard to pull off we've actually broken the cableways trying to pull them years later. VHB is no joke.

@@MapleLeafMakers Perfect! I'll just make sure to double check before it stick it down. 😅

Those are titanium backers! They are used to prevent a little bit of gantry warp during heat cycles.

That depends a lot on what material you are pressing the inserts into. For our CF-ABS we usually press around 265 or so. For Standard ABS 250, PLA 220.

@@MapleLeafMakers I just test it at 300°C on an abs 3d part and it works great. Maybe due to heat loss across the pan.

Ya it was a little tedious and a lot of gcode.

I thought you had a raspberry audiocard with some klipper trickery ro make it react to sound. Well done!@@MapleLeafMakers im aiming for something like this with mu V0 too. Thanks for setting the bar XD