Thanks for your support. Your video quality has really become very professional... while I'm still making rookie mistakes, like making sure to hit record on the lapel mic...
I had the same issue with bed bearings, one side moved well, but the other side would move with random stops and starts. Replaced them with some cheap amazon bearings and some lub, and it was much quiter. I also noticed that if I fully tightend the bearing mounts, the bed slightly bound up, so I left them just a bit loose, and now it move free.
Silly question but how do you properly turn off the printer? There is indeed a switch on the back, but whenever I flip the switch off, it gives me an error and the nozzle never resets back to home
You need to unplug the USB cable too, as the printer motherboard will receive power over USB cable too. Or, set the nozzle and bed temp to cooldown first, and then flip the switch.
Not only the y axis bearings are crappy, the x axis suffers from the same problem. And replacing the x axis bearings is not an easy job to do (for me anyway), it took me several hours of work and to take a little risk to brake plastic parts. I guess there are printers which allow more easy access to any part you might want to replace than the A5.
Hi, Great review!! Am looking at this or the Ender 3 and CR10S, will be printing mostly TPU. What would you recommend? Am an Aussie living in a 3rd world country where the power goes off often also
Thanks Tremor, for TPU a direct-drive printer (or a printer with a very short bowden) would give better results. I have not personally tried TPU on the A5S, but I have seen others do it - but they had to slow the print down very very significantly. Is this for commercial work or for hobby work? I also have a review of the Alfawise U20 - it has a very nice short bowden tube, you may want to check that one out. The power out resume also worked perfectly for me first time on the U20, I can't say the same for the A5S. For commercial use I recommend the Lulzbot mini - but unfortunately that one does not have power outage resume, so you would need a UPS or similar to handle power blips. Please message me if you want a coupon for whatever printer you end up choosing :-)
Samuel Pinches Thanks! Will be just for hobby work. I appreciate the answer as it has helped me understand TPU printing, less resistance makes complete sense.
Hi Ondrej, I'm unlikely to have any time in the next month to make videos, so here's the short summary - it is not a short process.... To swap the bed bearings - unplug all the connectors on the side - undo the screws, and separate the z/x gantry from the chassis with the y axis. - undo the screws on the back of the chassis, and the screws on the front bottom edge, so that the main chassis starts to open. - open the main chassis from the back and open slightly. - cut cable ties and unplug connectors as required to fully open the chassis. - you will need to unplug the connector from the front LCD. You will also need to unscrew and unplug the connections for the bed wiring. - from here, you can undo the screws holding down the heated bed, and remove the heated bed from the top half of the main chassis - next, you should be able to undo the y-belt components. - now you should be able to see what parts need to be undone to enable you to swap the bed bearings. The y bearings are more difficult to explain, a video would probably be a good idea.... a lot of disassembly is required.
Do you have any setting for the the newest version of cura? When I try to use the most updated version of cura my print head goes off the bed and extrudes forever.
@@SamPinchesMakerShop this is also the g code i was trying to use i found on the jg wiki start G28 ; Home all axis G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; Move up 15mm at 6000mm/min (note: more than the max speed set in the printer firmware) G92 E0 ; Reset extruder length to zero G1 X0.0 Y0.0 F1000.0 ; go to edge of print area G1 Z0.200 F1000.0 ; Go to Start Z position G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line G1 X100.0 E21.5 F1000.0 ; intro line G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position end M140 S0; Turn off the bed heater M104 S0; Turn off the nozzle heater G28 X Y; Home the X and Y axis G0 Y280 F600; Bring the bed to the front for easy print removal M84; Turn off the motors
「THE WORLD」ゴゴゴ maybe join us on the forum and post some screenshots of your settings? I’m not sure I’m fully understanding the issue, if you want to take some photos or video too that also might be helpful.
Thank you for the feedback. At the moment I'm using 80W of LED lighting. I would like to upgrade this but lighting panels are very expensive ... I'm already getting a better camera that should make things better, but better lighting is on my list for sure :-)
Never again will i trust JGAurora because my A5 worked fine out of the box and it has lots of things going for the printer but parts just kept going wrong and in the end I asked for my money back (with good reason) and this is where I found out that the guarantee is worthless. Same really because the LCD menu screen is second to none but what's use is a screen if the printer won't work.
WD40 is not really a good long term lubricant.... and it is super messy. I’d recommend Sewing Machine Oil in place of it. But I tried that and it didn’t fix them. Https://Jgaurorawiki.com/lubrication
What a dissapointment.. I was gonna buy it until i saw what garbage bearings they used. They saved what, 5 cents? Totally unacceptable for this price range
Good points, and great perspective on the A5S! Looking forward to your final review as well.
Thanks for the shoutout!
Thanks for your support. Your video quality has really become very professional... while I'm still making rookie mistakes, like making sure to hit record on the lapel mic...
Very good presentation. Concise and well spoken.
I had the same issue with bed bearings, one side moved well, but the other side would move with random stops and starts. Replaced them with some cheap amazon bearings and some lub, and it was much quiter. I also noticed that if I fully tightend the bearing mounts, the bed slightly bound up, so I left them just a bit loose, and now it move free.
Just purchased the A5S. Will be my first 3D printer, so I may be coming around here if I have any questions I can't find answers for.
First printer - very exciting I'm sure! 😉 You're always welcome to join us over on the forum: jgauroraforum.com
Thanks for these great tips! My A5S arrives tomorrow and this should really help shorten my learning curve; at least on the hardware side. -
No worries Don :-) Good luck! Feel free to join us on the facebook group (linked on the wiki) or on the forum (jgauroraforum.com)
Silly question but how do you properly turn off the printer? There is indeed a switch on the back, but whenever I flip the switch off, it gives me an error and the nozzle never resets back to home
You need to unplug the USB cable too, as the printer motherboard will receive power over USB cable too. Or, set the nozzle and bed temp to cooldown first, and then flip the switch.
Not only the y axis bearings are crappy, the x axis suffers from the same problem. And replacing the x axis bearings is not an easy job to do (for me anyway), it took me several hours of work and to take a little risk to brake plastic parts. I guess there are printers which allow more easy access to any part you might want to replace than the A5.
Great video!! Do you know if the installation video on the sd card shows how to level the table actually? Thank you
I suggest you try these videos:
ua-cam.com/video/PcViHrhyb1w/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/7G2OftpUxow/v-deo.html
Best, Sam
Hi,
Great review!!
Am looking at this or the Ender 3 and CR10S, will be printing mostly TPU. What would you recommend? Am an Aussie living in a 3rd world country where the power goes off often also
Thanks Tremor, for TPU a direct-drive printer (or a printer with a very short bowden) would give better results. I have not personally tried TPU on the A5S, but I have seen others do it - but they had to slow the print down very very significantly. Is this for commercial work or for hobby work? I also have a review of the Alfawise U20 - it has a very nice short bowden tube, you may want to check that one out. The power out resume also worked perfectly for me first time on the U20, I can't say the same for the A5S. For commercial use I recommend the Lulzbot mini - but unfortunately that one does not have power outage resume, so you would need a UPS or similar to handle power blips. Please message me if you want a coupon for whatever printer you end up choosing :-)
Samuel Pinches Thanks! Will be just for hobby work. I appreciate the answer as it has helped me understand TPU printing, less resistance makes complete sense.
Have you guys come up with a way to put custom firmware on the a5s I want to do mesh bed leveling
I think you'll find this link helpful 😉 lmgtfy.com/?q=custom+firmware+on+the+a5s
could you make a video on how you replace the bearings?
Hi Ondrej,
I'm unlikely to have any time in the next month to make videos, so here's the short summary - it is not a short process....
To swap the bed bearings
- unplug all the connectors on the side
- undo the screws, and separate the z/x gantry from the chassis with the y axis.
- undo the screws on the back of the chassis, and the screws on the front bottom edge, so that the main chassis starts to open.
- open the main chassis from the back and open slightly.
- cut cable ties and unplug connectors as required to fully open the chassis.
- you will need to unplug the connector from the front LCD. You will also need to unscrew and unplug the connections for the bed wiring.
- from here, you can undo the screws holding down the heated bed, and remove the heated bed from the top half of the main chassis
- next, you should be able to undo the y-belt components.
- now you should be able to see what parts need to be undone to enable you to swap the bed bearings.
The y bearings are more difficult to explain, a video would probably be a good idea.... a lot of disassembly is required.
@@SamPinchesMakerShop I understand, I have received my printer recently, and the bearings seem fine. However, the x axis is quite noisy.
Do you have any setting for the the newest version of cura? When I try to use the most updated version of cura my print head goes off the bed and extrudes forever.
Hi, which version of cura is that? Make sure in machine settings you do *not* have "center of bed is origin 0,0" enabled.
ultimaker cura 3.6 i have origin at center unchecked in machine settings
@@SamPinchesMakerShop this is also the g code i was trying to use i found on the jg wiki
start
G28 ; Home all axis
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; Move up 15mm at 6000mm/min (note: more than the max speed set in the printer firmware)
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder length to zero
G1 X0.0 Y0.0 F1000.0 ; go to edge of print area
G1 Z0.200 F1000.0 ; Go to Start Z position
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E21.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position
end
M140 S0; Turn off the bed heater
M104 S0; Turn off the nozzle heater
G28 X Y; Home the X and Y axis
G0 Y280 F600; Bring the bed to the front for easy print removal
M84; Turn off the motors
「THE WORLD」ゴゴゴ maybe join us on the forum and post some screenshots of your settings? I’m not sure I’m fully understanding the issue, if you want to take some photos or video too that also might be helpful.
where do we get replacement bearings/ what should i search to find these bearings?
I've added details and links to the bearings you need onto the NEW wiki page for this printer: jgaurorawiki.com/a5s :-)
Hi Samual why did you leave the paper tape on the sides?
Henk Visser I... I... I don’t know 😂😂😂
;-)
That's some slow heat-bed heating. My Printrbot takes a couple of minutes and that seems like forever.
Hy Samuel what for Modell is the blue Printer?
IT IS A1
JGAurora A1 ... review coming soon!
very good review, could use better lighting however, thanks
Thank you for the feedback. At the moment I'm using 80W of LED lighting. I would like to upgrade this but lighting panels are very expensive ... I'm already getting a better camera that should make things better, but better lighting is on my list for sure :-)
Never again will i trust JGAurora because my A5 worked fine out of the box and it has lots of things going for the printer but parts just kept going wrong and in the end I asked for my money back (with good reason) and this is where I found out that the guarantee is worthless. Same really because the LCD menu screen is second to none but what's use is a screen if the printer won't work.
Would WD40 not help?
WD40 is not really a good long term lubricant.... and it is super messy. I’d recommend Sewing Machine Oil in place of it. But I tried that and it didn’t fix them.
Https://Jgaurorawiki.com/lubrication
once seen can't be unseen. A5S reads "ASS"
Let’s just say product naming is not one of JGAurora’s strengths... 😂
What a dissapointment.. I was gonna buy it until i saw what garbage bearings they used. They saved what, 5 cents? Totally unacceptable for this price range