My friends! Drop a comment for the engagement god. Id love to hear your experiences with Bambulab printers, and if you havent yet tried them - will you? Also I forgot to mention that both of these machines are delightfully quiet! I also misremembered the detail about speed: it wasn't 30 minutes faster than the V400, it was 30 minutes LIKE the V400 😅
Cant by Petg from Bambu at the moment here in Australia, been like that for over a month, Keeps saying theres no filament but support cant tell me when or whats happening with the petg basics range. Only thing i have found with them is their stock level is very bad and always running out here in Aus.
I started my FDM Journey with a Prusa Mini, bloody ripper of a printer but I got a Bambulab p1s with the ams and its just so good that my little printer that could was just collecting dust. Bambulabs is just crazy good, closest to plug and play I've ever experienced :D
Got mine recently and it has been a blast no issues yes after every print some filemeant gets stuck between purge wiper and nozzel but great quality plus ams is great I also just found about about the parts option in the app its a w also only the first layer always has elephants foot its a problem with the z offset but it is ok because it does not effect much
I bought a P1S about 11 months ago to print 40K terrain to run tournaments. I had minimal experience printing FDM when i bought it. Up to this point, I've printed around 30 entire tables of terrain. These things just work man.
Just finished printing thirty trophies for a friend who is hosting a wargaming tournament, mostly on my P1S. It has 3,372 hours on it as I type this and I'm printing some dungeon blocks terrain on it. Unreal how reliable this printer is.
I bought an X1C because I wanted the printing to be my hobby, not the printer itself. I’ve wasted way too much time trying to keep an Ender working consistently, and I’m done with that BS.
Same here. They just work!! Sold my Ender a week after I got my P1S. 1000 prints later and it's still printing amazingly as long as I keep my filament dry.
These printers aren't just for beginners or less technically minded people. I am someone who goes through and adjusts almost every single variable on my prints to get exactly the result I want and I love how easy bambu lab printers are to work with. I almost never have issues or failed prints, I switch materials and spools constantly and the AMS (not the lite one, i dont have that) takes that headache completely out of the equation for me. The speed and print quality is superb and I just can't be happier with it. Your bases being weird like that may be elephant foot compensation. If you loaded a project from maker world and then put your bases into that project it could have printed with those variables. Make sure to start with a fresh project and check under quality > precision elephant foot compensation (XY distance) and then below that elephant foot compensation layers. That's my best guess, I leave it at 1 layer for 0.15mm. I've used tree supports with a different material interface and had no problem. again, could be a weird slicer profile and why I dont ever use other people's profiles because honestly most people don't know the first thing about making a proper print profile.
It feels like most people that call these beginner printers arent really using their printers to PRINT. But instead tinkering the printer is their hobby. And while there is absolutely wrong with that, a LOT of people do not 3d print to tinker with printers at all, and thats OK too. After years and years of "tinkering" with the likes of ender, now i have 10+ hours of work 6 days a week plus kids plus pets plus plus plus. Even if i wanted to just tiker with the printer i legitimately do not have time. And with me selling between 25-50 pcs a week, i just need the printer to print at an appliance level. And for the price absolutely no other company gets even close. Spending the money on a Ender 3 V3 vs a Bambu A1 its absolutely a no brainer for those people that just want to PRINT.
I have lots of problems downloading projects from makerworld, when all I want is just the geometry. now I have lots of print profiles and cannot get rid of them. do you know a good tutorial I can follow to help me avoid this? I also dont know how to delete old profiles... its annoying. can you help?
@tmjmccormack Hi. He just said he has no time to tinker with the machine. Ender machines seem like a machine you have to constantly adjust. So. The no-brainer is the Bambu Labs choice. Do you "understand now"? Oh, in case you don't know. I read that, after you select your project, you have to log into Bambu Lab Cloud to send the project to the printer. Doing that, seems like they're spying on what you're doing.
it's perfectly fine to use a metal scraper on a pei plate. you just have to be gentle you won't scratch it. it's much better than whatever plastic contraption you're using.
Most printers these days, these included, have removable build plates. Remove it, flex it, no scraping necessary. I believe this is what he is getting at. You shouldn't need a scraper, you should use your brain and follow how these are designed to be used because it's way easier that way.@@zuppy2
Post-usage videos are generally better IMO because you (or whoever) realize the stupid things that they messed up during setup, like you mentioned with the filament wiper thing. I'd love to see specifically what you like the print with FDM printers vs resin. Personally I've done a lot of tiles/terrain with my FDM, and I reserve my resin printer for minis.
I got my A1 Mini 48 Hours ago and i have been loving every second of it since. My .2 nozzle arrived today along with some of the matte filament. Its about to get real.
I really like this format! It feels a lot more focused and you've already identified the issues and strengths. I find I tune out when you're figuring out the fixes, though I can see that if I bought the printer it might be useful. Hope it isn't a tonne more editing but this seems like a big step up imo. Great vid and review
You can cut down on the multi material time for support by making the tree support the exact same as the material you are printing in, ect for the last few layers that touch the actual part there is a setting in bambu that will do this for you. Also, purge your poop into your infill.
Not sure if anyone has commented but with supports you can set it up in the slicer to only use the support filament for the last couple of layers so it massively reduces the time to print something as it doesnt have to keep changing the filament for every layer
Bambu Lab has a filament section labeled as support and it tells you what it would be used to support one of them is PVA it supports PLA and PETG and it dissolves in water
Just another comment for an FYI. The flat part on the back of the nozzles that touch the little heater block and sensor. As you get oils from your fingerprints, you'll see a little rectangular rust spot. Try keeping that as clean as possible to make sure your temperatures stay good. There are people that have had massive blobs of death and their A1 gets ruined. I have a feeling that could be part of the problem. It doesn't know what the temperature is and it gets way too hot. I swapped my nozzles all the time and tend to just wipe it down with some alcohol.
I have to say, i have had the A1 for about 6 weeks now, and I'm a beginner to 3D printing. I'm impressed, it's practically idiot proof to set up and the procedure is so easy. I will say though, it's worth printing the gantry AMS holder, its on the Makerworld. It is a Bambu Lab upload. They even supply the screws in the Kit they sent you. I found it doesn't impede quality and i haven't noticed any real increase in vibrations. If you want to reduce the footprint, i highly recommend you print this 👍👍
I got an A1 Mini and the thing just prints. It is my first printer and I waited for more than five years to get one, since I always was intrigued by the idea of solving small issues with quick designs and prints, but never wanted trouble shooting a printer to be my new hobby. I have not had to manually change anything on the printer so far and it has printed great results every time I used it! All that for 200€ in the anniversary sale. I am impressed. Obviously I love the philosophy behind Prusa, but they are so far out of reach for me that I never considered them.
Bambu Labs are adding some good features and innovations to the market, but their price is definitely the biggest selling point. I own a Prusa Mk4 myself, but I've worked with a P1S (and A1 Mini + AMS) at work. I'd put these machines on the same level in terms of ease of use, reliability, and quality of the resulting prints. I went with Prusa because I too like their philosophy, I like the fact that the machine is easy to maintain (though it hasn't needed any replacements or adjustments so far), and I want to support Made in Europe. But for those starting in the hobby, Bambu is an excellent choice and far more affordable. I'm just hoping for an affordable enclosed Core XY printer from Prusa one day.
For the printed base angle problem - it looks like for the first 10 layers it's printing faster (because of solid bottom) and then it slows down (hits the layer time limit), but still does not manage to cool the material. Set maximum flowrate under filament parameters to 10-15 mm3/s and see if it helps. If it does - or you need bring down printing speed until flowrate becomes more uniform (check under Preview window and select Flowrate instead of Line type).
There is a Bambu Lab printed mod to put the AMS Lite on top of the A1 if you are concerned about space. You will want to rerun calibration when you are done. Also there is an unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print. For the PETG support print, did you make sure it was dried out before use? The stringing can get bad the wetter it gets
Do you have a source or search term to find the "unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print." That's what I need and why I have NOT purchased a Bamboo because it couldn't do it.
@@briandonovan9091I can't post a link in here, but if you search for "How to Print TPU with the Bambu Lab AMS (Mod)" you can find the video of someone who modified their non-Lite AMS to do it and the risks therein. I'm looking for the AMS Lite video I saw and can't find it. You can search for the mod named "AMS Lite TPU Mod" and that will hopefully get you the rest of the way there. Good luck and remember you could permanently mess up your AMS doing this
I rarely use the AMS for multi color prints. I like having my favorite filaments available without fussing. The other usage is the automatic rollover. Low filament? No worries, just throw a second spool on, and the AMS kicks over to it when it runs through the first one. No more having partial rolls everywhere, or having to watch the status of the spool.
Bought an A1 mini 2 weeks ago. After 30 mins I was printing stuff like there was no tomorrow. Zero tweaks, just click and print. You can even check how your print is going remotely from your mobile phone as it’s got an integrated camera pointing at the model. Incredible speed and accuracy. Click and print. This is a marvel of technology and you will just throw your old printer away without even thinking about it.
Buy the Bambu support material for pla. When you use petg the nozzle has to heat up to petg temp then cool down to pla temp. Bambu pla support material heats at the same temp but doesn't stick to the pla, and you're only paying for the interface layers when it comes to the support material. I use it and it works great for me m
The printer and filament profile actually come from Prusa. Bamboo slicer is a derivative work from Prosa slicer. The ptfe tube from the spool to the head is there to avoid dudden sharp pulls when the head moves, which can lead to filament entanglement.
ill say. as someone that was/is part of the croud that wants to fiddel with there printers and make them better, its a breath of fresh air to have one that just.. works every single time i send a print. it has issues whenever i dont like wash the print bed or i ask it to do to much but im leaving my tinkering to my modded ender 3 and my p1s is for when things need to get done
Hey mate. Now you have the scraper i was talking about for removing models from resin build plates the problem is you put the push block (the bit you had to reprint) on the wrong side and back to front.
Great video! Ok I have noticed that it is most likely not my fault to assemble the scraper like you did the first time as well! Here comes the fun news: you have to assemble it UPSIDE DOWN! Why on earth, I don't know, maybe that's a chinese thing? But if you look really carefully at the project images you can see the ramp where you assume your thumb goes that it is actually the bottom for the blade, so it can sail even more shallow over the plates! The scraper bumper is not to protect your thumb, but to actually push against it while still being protected 😀So folks, if you look at 11:03 you have to turn the bumper around by 180° and then assemble it from the bottom against the scraper. So you can see those two black screws and the sharpness of the blade from the top. Funny it happened to you as well!
I have the A1, A1 mini and the P1S. All three are solid. I too have the V400, but it's relegated to the basement where it gets little love these days... Trying to print with petg broke my spirit before I started printing from a dryer directly. Now it's so fresh and clean on my Bambu printers. I started my collection with the mini combo and I was blown away! Hooked for good. They just work. No tuning, no worries. I want to hit print and walk away. Thanks for your video. I had a user error issue putting my purge wiper on my A1, I didn't push the head over and I guess I trapped the print head and it would not home. I reached out to Bambu, sent them a video and was so pissed. Then I actually looked at assembly instructions online... 😅 that was a wasted day and a half...
Picked up the Carbon X1 this year with the AMS. I was printing a plate of terrain yesterday, was a 21 hour print. I ran out of filament on the last two layers. Thank digital jesus for run out detection. I plopped in a new roll of filament, and boom finished the last 20 minutes of printing fine.
With AMS you can load up two to four slots with the same color/type and it will automatically go from one spool to the next. Just go to the device tab and click the little avengers icon. For the AMS, changing filaments is (by necessity) child's play. I'm doing a 20 hour print and have three spools same color PETG loaded up.
I have a Bambu P1P that has been incredible for printing PLA, Silk PLA, and PETG. I've printed 100's of models, many are ones that I created in Tinkercad during the past year. It's been printing nearly 24/7 for that whole time! The elementary school I've printed them for is very grateful. I had no 3D printing experience when I got this printer. I had it working after a brief assembly. The online docs are great and the online community has been very helpful.
Glad the points came through for you. Funny how they then noticed OIASS afterward, huh? I respect how their systems are a premium and you get what you expect you should get. Pretty much plug-and-play instead of the engineering side falling onto us. I would like to see what happens if they enter the Resin side of printing. They do still have major downsides, specifically, these should not be used in businesses that need NDAs or higher. But, for the majority of us, they are perfect.
@@kind3r_sol Yes, but from others who had gotten inside, they also stored the previous jobs and details. Even after a full reset, once it eventually connected the it was sent with the current request. This is why I said for NDAs and up it is a risk and can land you in jail. Additionally, they get the Gcode as well for each print, the items could be remade by someone else. I don't think that would happen but it is theoretically possible. But, as I said, for most of us, this would not apply.
@@RoseKindred I challenge your assertion. Your printer does NOT auto upload its print info/log or anything like that in lan mode or after a factory reset. Please point me to your sources I have wireshark and a router monitoring traffic and nothing of what you are saying is true. SD card only is an option Lan only mode does not leak data or even attempt to look for the net. Vlan works fine sending files via FTP works fine Cloud(obvious) connects to the cloud. but the other options are viable too but log data does NOT auto upload. Please see X1+ team for more info as they have unfettered access to the linux OS for a long time and none of what you are saying was found. The ONLY time a log file is uploaded, optionally, is with a trouble ticket. Source Owned an X1C for 2 years.
@@shoegum7362 who hasn’t. We all think that it might’ve gone through a portal to another universe but I refuse to believe it and look for it until I find it.
I’ve not had good success printing mini figures, but have had amazing results printing vehicles. I printed two leman russes from station forge and they look incredible. I use 2mm nozzle at .06mm height. You need to be a bit creative with slicing and placement but holy crap they look awesome! And way more durable than resin prints. I can drop them off the table and barely have any damage to show for it.
I have had my A1 mini for about 2 months now, the tool headboard quit working and they sent me a free replacement one within days. I am very surprised by well it works. The speed and their customer service
brilliant thanks! I've got an adventurer 4, that I bought shortly before the bamboo came out, just as the anker make came out, and skipped the anker make due to the old style nozzle. seeing you change the nozzle means I can happily buy a bamboo printer when the adventurer dies the adventurer has many problems that I seem to have finally fixed due to wear in, and rolling back to a functional firmware. but it's pretty reliable once you've worked out the kinks, but the bamboo is so much better.
I plan to ask my wife for one this Christmas. Really looking forward to printing some miniatures for my wargaming. I am not really worried about print times since it takes me like a week just to paint 4 or 5 miniatures. Looks like the .2mm nozzle is the way to go for smaller items in finer detail.
It works really well with the 0.2mm nozzle. You won't get too far with the 0.4mm included which is best for general use. I got an aftermarket 0.2mm nozzle off Amazon and it works perfectly, the A1 mini and full size both have a quick release for the nozzle to swap, much easier than on the X1 Carbon which I also have and bought first.
Wow! I haven’t really been that interested in getting a Bambulab printer until after this video. The software integrations with things like print-profiles are really interesting!
18:30 with big flat parts on the A1, the edges tend to peel up off of the plate. Just enough to look a bit wonky. Any big round or square parts, I use a healthy dose of glue stick, then I take paper towel, soak it in IPA, and spread the glue stick around nice and even. But that is after I make sure that I either use a brim or the mouse ears, I do use Orca slicer not Bamboo slicer. I don't remember if mouse ears are on bamboo slicer. Mouse ears essentially are just tiny brims that only go on like very sharp corners to keep them from rising off the bed. Also maybe bump up your bed temperature another 5°. And always have a deeper tool to get the little edges off. 🥂 Also, also, try adjusting your print temperatures. If the brim and the glue stick don't help. I tend to run my first layer cooler which kind of helps with oozing on the first layer too. But by thought, process is if it doesn't have to cool down as much, it might not warp as much. And it's strange that it's just such a slight amount of warping.
Good tips. I am getting curling edges on large flat prints.. it’s like the bed isn’t heated evenly at the edges.. I have tried brims (couldn’t find mouse ears in Bambu studio :( only in p slicer
23:13 as for the AMS taking up space, bambu provide you with files for a top mount bracket sytem that you print yourself so that the AMS mounts to the top of the printer so it only takes up vertical space. This along with alot of the other accessories, like the scraper, they provide you with the blade for it, but you have to print the handle yourself, I LOVE THIS. If they were to release an injection molded top mount bracket for the AMS, it would probably cost 60 or 70 bucks.
Bambulabs have published a bracket for the AMS which allows you to top mount it for a smaller footprint. It includes wedges to keep the printer stable and an adapter so there os still somewhere to put a spare spool that isn't part of the AMS.
Ha! I love that you bought the printer user MakerWorld points. I bought the X1C and now I’m an addict on MakerWorld, Ive gotten two AMS’, and I haven’t paid for filament in 6 months, and have almost 1,900 hours on my printer in that time. I love the points and I hope they don’t go away
The PETG support interface layer absolutely works with tree supports... It's just the interface contact patch is so small you don't really see it, but I've used it, and it works, you can watch it change filament to PETG when it prints for the support interface.
24:56 ive noticed that when using the option to select a specific support interface filament, it doesnt actually do the filament swap if the contact patch is too small, or too fat apart. Under advanced support options, change Top Z Distance and Top Interface Spacing to 0, and it should actually work.
You can indeed skip all the pre printing calibrations and just keep Bed levelling, but that entails changing startup GCodes. BambuLab probably will not offer support on errors if you do this, but I do it to mitigate that awful rumbling calibration thingy when I print late (it actually can be felt and heard throughout the house).
I have one Bambu P1s and one FLSun S1, When I need to print complex multi-color models, I fire up my P1S. When I'm printing larger models like helmets, I usually use the S1. I absolutely love them .
My Bambu Lab is my sixth 3D Printer, i clocked around 1100 hours in 7 month. Which is about twice as much as i clocked in the Time on my others printers. Totally i am around 6000-7000 hours. I have 3 DIY Kit printers and all my printers were upgraded to Autobed Level. My X1E takes around 5 minutes and with minimal Settings + Autobedlevel to start. Thing is: My other printers needed around 2-3 Minutes for Autobedlevel as well, especially my Tronxy-A5S-400 takes longer then my X1E. They all have moving beds and i think thats the difference, all Beds which move needs to be calibrated from time to time, fixed bed printers like a Voron 2.4 or a Delta don't need it. Personally i have #3 just dissambled and i am rebuilding it as an A1 Type Bed-Pusher: all Linear Rails with a Core XZ mechanism and i am looking to replace my slow Core XY with an Voron 2.4 style but i want to keep the 400x400x400mm capability. I simply don't print on it because it's to slow. To increase the Printspeed: The Flowrate is atm the weakest point, there are Upgrade Options for the X1/P1 series like the ObXidian Hotends that drops the print times again, as Bambu Labs only have an Vulcan Style Nozzle, which is still considered a speed Nozzle. For the A1 there is a CHT Clone on Temu, which may double the extrusion but most likely increase it by 50%. TL;DR: The Speed of the Bambu Labs printers is good and the Autolevel delay normal for an Bedmoving Printer.
You can replace part of the start and finish G code using one of the templates that's available in the slicer. It significantly reduces the amount of time it spends doing checks and also produces less waste (afaik?).
Still haven't bought a printer. However, the Bambu Labs offerings just make sense. It's like adopting any other hobby - the initial cost lay out is just a hint at the overall costs. Keeping new filament available, a filament dryer solution, storage, time, learning curves, waste management, storage for finished prints, etc.... It's more than I can take on. Plus my wife keeps bringing up the negatives. After 30 years of marriage, it's best not to purposely do anything to start a conflict.
After years of stress filled printing with Other well known brands of fdm, I brought a A1. It was well worth it. From the WTF!!! as it 1st sets up, to the ease of slicing and sending the file to get printing without all the stress and worry of the SD cards and walking up and down stairs to the print room all day as it has a cam built in. Thats proper priceless. Even has a little LED light to brighten the shot at night. I will be buying another. They do say not to be used in a enclosure because the control boards got no assisted cooling, Well, i tinkercaded a wrap around cooler duct with a 120mm fan filling the two vents with cool air from below the enclosure, Its running perfectly printing ABS and Carbon with a HD nozzle. The Z uprights get warm though so i may extend the cooling.
Hey! Does the Bambulab A1 need ventilation if I'm just using PLA filament? And related question, is PLA filament the best filament to use for FDM printing miniatures?
Careful with the spatula, the blades are far too sharp and will dig a lump out of your textured bed plate. Years ago I started with the infamous Anet A8 and spent a couple of years upgrading and changing almost every part other than the power cable to try and get a decent part for whatever needed fixed at the time and I ended up getting burnt out. I just recently got the P1S and had to printed the first print twice, just to believe how good it was and not just a fluke straight out of the box. What have all the other companies been doing for all these years when a newbie manufacturer can make and deliver not just 1 amazing printer but every one in the line up. Some people baulk at the price but if you take a normal every day printer say an ender 3, spend more money on upgrades, things they don't have and reprints just to get a decent print there is not much of a difference in what you spend in the long run, and its all done fore you right out of the box. I'm sure even Prusa are shaking in their boots and with emptier pockets since these guys came along. Its just what the industry needed, a bloody good shakeup.
Great video! I was so exited to get my P1S--as you said, Bambu holds one's hand the entire way. I was able to jump right in to FDM due to Bambu's ease of use. Great company!
I just bought an A1/ams combo and am patiently waiting for it to arrive. I do wish it had a direct drive rather than a Bowden tube system, but the overwhelmingly positive reviews of this printer make me not care about that issue too much. Can't wait to try it out.
Thank you so much for this review and the other 2 vids. Bought the A1 mini as my fist 3d printer after watching this and it has been a breeze. Such a good introduction to 3d printing.
I used cura for vase mode prints. BambuLab and Orca still have a bug in vase mode that creates artifacts / seam otherwise it is a nice slicer. I don't know why they don't offer a cura profile by themselves.
I've been looking for a upgrade from my ender 3 I've hated how many times it broke and how i didn't understand what it did so i might get the bamboo labs for the handholding
Phew, I got one a few weeks back and even had to pull fewer screws! So they improved it so far. One day you just pull it out of the box and turn it on. They know what the average user wants, almost in a scary way. 😀
I bought to a1 mini after buying a p1p and I can definitely recommend the a1 mini as a starter AND if you're wanting to do multi color prints I like the AMS lite more than the AMS personally. However, don't knock uniformation! I just got the GW Two and it's been a game changer for printing!
You can definitely disable that 5 or however many minute period of time when it's starting up, but you'll likely have to add it to the gcode, i currently have a custom hot-end profile that skips at least 2/4 things it does (like scraping the nozzle on the bed)
The change in angle on the bases is a byproduct of the base going from the solid top to the hollow bottom. Basically the plastic is going to suffer from more contraction on the layers where there is more physical plastic. Google "benchy hull line" if you want to go further down that rabbit hole - but it's an enigma no one has figured out how to mitigate 100%.
You should really use the scraper only when you cant get some small fragments off. Otherwise your PEI plate is not gonna last long. For easy removal just take off the plate and flex it back and forth, once it has cooled down a bit.
The scraper really is more of a crowbar lol, to get under the edge and then fulcrum lever it up to lift the part, and help clean stuck on bits off, but it’s also why the blade isn’t super sharp; but I’d recommend printing a plastic scraper for 99% of scraping.
The best thing for prying up parts without chewing up your bed is a high-quality flat blade for an oscillating multi tool. Cheap ones will work too, but you have to take the time to file and sand of any burr. You want them to be flat and sharp, but not sharp enough to dig, and will wide-radiused corners.
The Base issue looks like bed adhesion...the edges very slightly curl up and then cause the filament to "squish" differently for a few layers. Finger oils on PEI can cause this. Also too much part cooling can also cause this. Also having a draft hit the bed can cause it....Glue stick is a universal fix for this but its messy, if you don't mind post processing a brim in the slicer works. Had this issue with PLA on a few printers. Use a ruler to see if you layer touching the bed has some curvature.
I've printed many hundreds of bases in PLA and PETG and never have a problem with elephant's foot using the stock profile. It's only when I print an item with a large bottom layer that I get peel up. Nice wide brim usually fixes it.
The bases look like the first few layers' outer perimeters are pealing back off the bed for the first few layers. Also, I love my A1 mini. I'd consider using the AMS, just for single color prints management, but how does one function in a humid region? Gives me chills seeing filament just sitting 'out'.
I live in Florida where it's always humid. But my printers are in the house and air conditioning greatly reduces humidity. It takes weeks for PLA and PETG to start misbehaving. It's only really a concern for those remnant rolls and that's why I have a drier.
i got an a1 mini as my first fdm printer a few weeks ago, i had a resin printer as my first. I was immediatly underwealmed by the printer because it would fail to calibrate and the printer wouldn't work, so I had to reach out to customer support which is never fun, first message from them was asking if they tried the usual stuff you'd get from googling this problem. their second message to me was that they where sending me a new extruder unit, almost no hassle with the customer support, immediately shipped out an extruder unit after confirming the problem, every since I've gotten the new unity the printer has been working amazingly, its a really good first fdm printer
yeah man.... Bambu Lab is a great company. I just recently purchased a P1P as my first 3d printer and I couldn't be happier. The user experience with this company is CLEARLY a priority
Bambu has always been a great company for entry level tech meets art products, I remember distinctly the stylus pads for digital art, back when I was in grade school.
The A1 uses main power for the Bed, so it heats up pretty quick. It just does a lot of checks to ensure a perfect first layer, which it nails with great regularity.
I've been eyeing these ones for a while. My question is if the mini is big enough that it'll work for terrain/other large models as that's kinda the main thing I want it for, but I can't figure out if I'll regret not having the bigger version (my space isn't super limited, but it's not like I have infinite space between my resin printer plus wash and cure station)
if you liked that little bedslinger.. wait until you get ur hands on a x1c with an ams. then you discover filaments that dissovle easy that you can use for supports. oh the joy of never picking off supports anymore, and the "exotic" filaments that suddenly is possible with a chamber that can do 50c are so cool!
My mrs and the kids treated me to a a1 for fathers day i hadnt told them i also ordered one for my mrs so we have two on the go now and loving them for toys for the kids 40k terrain and stuff for the house. Ive tried tons of filements best ive found is esun pla +
I'm not sure about the A1 AMS, but I have a P1S and the AMS is amazing because it's a dry box and it makes loading and switching filaments between prints sooooooo much easier. And it's also great because if one spool runs out of filament, it can load another spool, so you never get failed prints because of running out of filament
AMS Lite will switch spools as well, plus it handles cardboard spools with grace. I like it a little better than the original AMS. The way I go through filament, nothing last long enough to get wet, except all those leftovers that accumulate. But now with the Sunlu four slot drier, it's all good.
3 months using my mini I just realized I had that scraper blade sitting on my desk thanks to you and I think I used those screws for the spool holder bc I have a bag with two screws that says spool holder 😂💀 live and learn thanks
You did the same thing I think a lot of us have done - you put the screws in the scraper wrong. They go in from the blade side, with the thumb grip on the plastic side.
I have a P1S and an X1C and absolutely love them. I have the AMS systems for both and two of them on my X1C. It’s awesome having backup filaments of multi color printing.
My friends! Drop a comment for the engagement god. Id love to hear your experiences with Bambulab printers, and if you havent yet tried them - will you?
Also I forgot to mention that both of these machines are delightfully quiet!
I also misremembered the detail about speed: it wasn't 30 minutes faster than the V400, it was 30 minutes LIKE the V400 😅
Cant by Petg from Bambu at the moment here in Australia, been like that for over a month, Keeps saying theres no filament but support cant tell me when or whats happening with the petg basics range. Only thing i have found with them is their stock level is very bad and always running out here in Aus.
Didn't they discontinued PETG Basic series? I thought now they will only sell PETG HF (High Flow) only.
I'am planning remplace my -old- ender 3v3 by a P1S and his AMS this year.
I started my FDM Journey with a Prusa Mini, bloody ripper of a printer but I got a Bambulab p1s with the ams and its just so good that my little printer that could was just collecting dust.
Bambulabs is just crazy good, closest to plug and play I've ever experienced :D
Got mine recently and it has been a blast no issues yes after every print some filemeant gets stuck between purge wiper and nozzel but great quality plus ams is great I also just found about about the parts option in the app its a w also only the first layer always has elephants foot its a problem with the z offset but it is ok because it does not effect much
My god. Drops a screw - immediately starts drilling holes in brand new printer. Can't tell whether to laugh or cry.
I like to start with a lighthearted laugh and end on the full body sobs, I recommend that.
@@OnceinaSixSide please donate your brain to science so that it may be studied.
@@OnceinaSixSide
Hi! Do you have any photos of the miniatures you've printed with the 0.2mm nozzles? Thanks for sharing!
@@mikekiske Next video! 😁
@@OnceinaSixSide
While you're at it, could you also show me how you assemble the two-part inlays? I'd really appreciate it! 😄
I bought a P1S about 11 months ago to print 40K terrain to run tournaments. I had minimal experience printing FDM when i bought it. Up to this point, I've printed around 30 entire tables of terrain. These things just work man.
As someone who's looking to print more terrain with their P1S, what are some artists you recommend?
glad to here, i am also looking at getting PIS for terrain purpose
Just finished printing thirty trophies for a friend who is hosting a wargaming tournament, mostly on my P1S. It has 3,372 hours on it as I type this and I'm printing some dungeon blocks terrain on it. Unreal how reliable this printer is.
@@SamuraiMujuru I recommend Flatline City from Saucermen Studios, prints great and I found it good for 40k and great for Necromunda
How many times did you replace the nozzle so far?
I bought an X1C because I wanted the printing to be my hobby, not the printer itself. I’ve wasted way too much time trying to keep an Ender working consistently, and I’m done with that BS.
Same here. They just work!! Sold my Ender a week after I got my P1S. 1000 prints later and it's still printing amazingly as long as I keep my filament dry.
Me to I had a ender 5 plus and it was awful
@@SmoothbassmanStudios love this thing. It’s been running non stop since I bought it and it just keeps churning out great prints.
I think the ender sold more Bambu printers than bambu did.
And your attributing that to the brand of printer rather than the over half a decade of technological advances why exactly?
These printers aren't just for beginners or less technically minded people. I am someone who goes through and adjusts almost every single variable on my prints to get exactly the result I want and I love how easy bambu lab printers are to work with. I almost never have issues or failed prints, I switch materials and spools constantly and the AMS (not the lite one, i dont have that) takes that headache completely out of the equation for me. The speed and print quality is superb and I just can't be happier with it.
Your bases being weird like that may be elephant foot compensation. If you loaded a project from maker world and then put your bases into that project it could have printed with those variables. Make sure to start with a fresh project and check under quality > precision elephant foot compensation (XY distance) and then below that elephant foot compensation layers. That's my best guess, I leave it at 1 layer for 0.15mm.
I've used tree supports with a different material interface and had no problem. again, could be a weird slicer profile and why I dont ever use other people's profiles because honestly most people don't know the first thing about making a proper print profile.
Absolutely! I love that they cater to everyone. Perfect for beginners but completely open so you can go as deep and as far as you want with them.
It feels like most people that call these beginner printers arent really using their printers to PRINT. But instead tinkering the printer is their hobby. And while there is absolutely wrong with that, a LOT of people do not 3d print to tinker with printers at all, and thats OK too.
After years and years of "tinkering" with the likes of ender, now i have 10+ hours of work 6 days a week plus kids plus pets plus plus plus. Even if i wanted to just tiker with the printer i legitimately do not have time. And with me selling between 25-50 pcs a week, i just need the printer to print at an appliance level. And for the price absolutely no other company gets even close.
Spending the money on a Ender 3 V3 vs a Bambu A1 its absolutely a no brainer for those people that just want to PRINT.
@@hecticapertureI’m not sure, after reading this twice, which printer you prefer…ender or Bambu for your purpose
I have lots of problems downloading projects from makerworld, when all I want is just the geometry. now I have lots of print profiles and cannot get rid of them. do you know a good tutorial I can follow to help me avoid this? I also dont know how to delete old profiles... its annoying. can you help?
@tmjmccormack Hi. He just said he has no time to tinker with the machine. Ender machines seem like a machine you have to constantly adjust. So. The no-brainer is the Bambu Labs choice. Do you "understand now"? Oh, in case you don't know. I read that, after you select your project, you have to log into Bambu Lab Cloud to send the project to the printer. Doing that, seems like they're spying on what you're doing.
This guy.. drilling holes on a brand new printer. using metal scraper on Texture PEI plate. you're killing me here man.
it's perfectly fine to use a metal scraper on a pei plate. you just have to be gentle you won't scratch it. it's much better than whatever plastic contraption you're using.
Most printers these days, these included, have removable build plates. Remove it, flex it, no scraping necessary. I believe this is what he is getting at. You shouldn't need a scraper, you should use your brain and follow how these are designed to be used because it's way easier that way.@@zuppy2
@@zuppy2 u suck for using s metal scraper on a pei plate.
Bambu literally sells metal scrapers
Savage
Post-usage videos are generally better IMO because you (or whoever) realize the stupid things that they messed up during setup, like you mentioned with the filament wiper thing. I'd love to see specifically what you like the print with FDM printers vs resin. Personally I've done a lot of tiles/terrain with my FDM, and I reserve my resin printer for minis.
I got my A1 Mini 48 Hours ago and i have been loving every second of it since. My .2 nozzle arrived today along with some of the matte filament. Its about to get real.
I really like this format! It feels a lot more focused and you've already identified the issues and strengths. I find I tune out when you're figuring out the fixes, though I can see that if I bought the printer it might be useful. Hope it isn't a tonne more editing but this seems like a big step up imo.
Great vid and review
Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
‘So anyway, i started drilling.’
You can cut down on the multi material time for support by making the tree support the exact same as the material you are printing in, ect for the last few layers that touch the actual part there is a setting in bambu that will do this for you. Also, purge your poop into your infill.
How do you get it to use the poop on the infill? Is that a setting in the slicer?
I would also like to know
Not sure if anyone has commented but with supports you can set it up in the slicer to only use the support filament for the last couple of layers so it massively reduces the time to print something as it doesnt have to keep changing the filament for every layer
Yes I use PLA and Petg ether way around as a interface layer with zero gap for my supports.
Bambu Lab has a filament section labeled as support and it tells you what it would be used to support one of them is PVA it supports PLA and PETG and it dissolves in water
Just another comment for an FYI. The flat part on the back of the nozzles that touch the little heater block and sensor. As you get oils from your fingerprints, you'll see a little rectangular rust spot. Try keeping that as clean as possible to make sure your temperatures stay good. There are people that have had massive blobs of death and their A1 gets ruined. I have a feeling that could be part of the problem. It doesn't know what the temperature is and it gets way too hot. I swapped my nozzles all the time and tend to just wipe it down with some alcohol.
I have to say, i have had the A1 for about 6 weeks now, and I'm a beginner to 3D printing. I'm impressed, it's practically idiot proof to set up and the procedure is so easy. I will say though, it's worth printing the gantry AMS holder, its on the Makerworld. It is a Bambu Lab upload. They even supply the screws in the Kit they sent you. I found it doesn't impede quality and i haven't noticed any real increase in vibrations. If you want to reduce the footprint, i highly recommend you print this 👍👍
I got an A1 Mini and the thing just prints. It is my first printer and I waited for more than five years to get one, since I always was intrigued by the idea of solving small issues with quick designs and prints, but never wanted trouble shooting a printer to be my new hobby. I have not had to manually change anything on the printer so far and it has printed great results every time I used it! All that for 200€ in the anniversary sale. I am impressed. Obviously I love the philosophy behind Prusa, but they are so far out of reach for me that I never considered them.
Bambu Labs are adding some good features and innovations to the market, but their price is definitely the biggest selling point. I own a Prusa Mk4 myself, but I've worked with a P1S (and A1 Mini + AMS) at work. I'd put these machines on the same level in terms of ease of use, reliability, and quality of the resulting prints.
I went with Prusa because I too like their philosophy, I like the fact that the machine is easy to maintain (though it hasn't needed any replacements or adjustments so far), and I want to support Made in Europe. But for those starting in the hobby, Bambu is an excellent choice and far more affordable. I'm just hoping for an affordable enclosed Core XY printer from Prusa one day.
For the printed base angle problem - it looks like for the first 10 layers it's printing faster (because of solid bottom) and then it slows down (hits the layer time limit), but still does not manage to cool the material. Set maximum flowrate under filament parameters to 10-15 mm3/s and see if it helps. If it does - or you need bring down printing speed until flowrate becomes more uniform (check under Preview window and select Flowrate instead of Line type).
The angle issue you’re having for the bases is the infill pulling inward after it cools down and it’s shrinking.
any idea what to do about it? I have the same trouble when printing plant pots. Cheers!
There is a Bambu Lab printed mod to put the AMS Lite on top of the A1 if you are concerned about space. You will want to rerun calibration when you are done.
Also there is an unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print.
For the PETG support print, did you make sure it was dried out before use? The stringing can get bad the wetter it gets
Do you have a source or search term to find the "unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print." That's what I need and why I have NOT purchased a Bamboo because it couldn't do it.
@@briandonovan9091I can't post a link in here, but if you search for "How to Print TPU with the Bambu Lab AMS (Mod)" you can find the video of someone who modified their non-Lite AMS to do it and the risks therein.
I'm looking for the AMS Lite video I saw and can't find it. You can search for the mod named "AMS Lite TPU Mod" and that will hopefully get you the rest of the way there.
Good luck and remember you could permanently mess up your AMS doing this
I too would like to know
I rarely use the AMS for multi color prints. I like having my favorite filaments available without fussing. The other usage is the automatic rollover. Low filament? No worries, just throw a second spool on, and the AMS kicks over to it when it runs through the first one. No more having partial rolls everywhere, or having to watch the status of the spool.
I don't even care about rollover all that much, I just like the ability to choose which material I will be printing with while I am at work/school
Bought an A1 mini 2 weeks ago. After 30 mins I was printing stuff like there was no tomorrow. Zero tweaks, just click and print. You can even check how your print is going remotely from your mobile phone as it’s got an integrated camera pointing at the model. Incredible speed and accuracy. Click and print. This is a marvel of technology and you will just throw your old printer away without even thinking about it.
Buy the Bambu support material for pla. When you use petg the nozzle has to heat up to petg temp then cool down to pla temp. Bambu pla support material heats at the same temp but doesn't stick to the pla, and you're only paying for the interface layers when it comes to the support material. I use it and it works great for me m
The printer and filament profile actually come from Prusa. Bamboo slicer is a derivative work from Prosa slicer.
The ptfe tube from the spool to the head is there to avoid dudden sharp pulls when the head moves, which can lead to filament entanglement.
Print the AMS top mount, comes with the top mount and rear stabiliser parts, and Bambu even give you the screws for those in the kit as well!
ill say. as someone that was/is part of the croud that wants to fiddel with there printers and make them better, its a breath of fresh air to have one that just.. works every single time i send a print. it has issues whenever i dont like wash the print bed or i ask it to do to much but im leaving my tinkering to my modded ender 3 and my p1s is for when things need to get done
8:22 What software do you have to get the preview of the stl ?
Hey mate. Now you have the scraper i was talking about for removing models from resin build plates the problem is you put the push block (the bit you had to reprint) on the wrong side and back to front.
I'm glad somebody noticed 😁
Great video! Ok I have noticed that it is most likely not my fault to assemble the scraper like you did the first time as well! Here comes the fun news: you have to assemble it UPSIDE DOWN! Why on earth, I don't know, maybe that's a chinese thing? But if you look really carefully at the project images you can see the ramp where you assume your thumb goes that it is actually the bottom for the blade, so it can sail even more shallow over the plates! The scraper bumper is not to protect your thumb, but to actually push against it while still being protected 😀So folks, if you look at 11:03 you have to turn the bumper around by 180° and then assemble it from the bottom against the scraper. So you can see those two black screws and the sharpness of the blade from the top. Funny it happened to you as well!
I have the A1, A1 mini and the P1S. All three are solid. I too have the V400, but it's relegated to the basement where it gets little love these days... Trying to print with petg broke my spirit before I started printing from a dryer directly. Now it's so fresh and clean on my Bambu printers. I started my collection with the mini combo and I was blown away! Hooked for good. They just work. No tuning, no worries. I want to hit print and walk away. Thanks for your video. I had a user error issue putting my purge wiper on my A1, I didn't push the head over and I guess I trapped the print head and it would not home. I reached out to Bambu, sent them a video and was so pissed. Then I actually looked at assembly instructions online... 😅 that was a wasted day and a half...
flsun sucks! have had 3 of there printers and were all nightmares
Picked up the Carbon X1 this year with the AMS. I was printing a plate of terrain yesterday, was a 21 hour print. I ran out of filament on the last two layers. Thank digital jesus for run out detection. I plopped in a new roll of filament, and boom finished the last 20 minutes of printing fine.
With AMS you can load up two to four slots with the same color/type and it will automatically go from one spool to the next. Just go to the device tab and click the little avengers icon. For the AMS, changing filaments is (by necessity) child's play. I'm doing a 20 hour print and have three spools same color PETG loaded up.
I have a Bambu P1P that has been incredible for printing PLA, Silk PLA, and PETG. I've printed 100's of models, many are ones that I created in Tinkercad during the past year. It's been printing nearly 24/7 for that whole time! The elementary school I've printed them for is very grateful. I had no 3D printing experience when I got this printer. I had it working after a brief assembly. The online docs are great and the online community has been very helpful.
Glad the points came through for you. Funny how they then noticed OIASS afterward, huh?
I respect how their systems are a premium and you get what you expect you should get. Pretty much plug-and-play instead of the engineering side falling onto us. I would like to see what happens if they enter the Resin side of printing.
They do still have major downsides, specifically, these should not be used in businesses that need NDAs or higher. But, for the majority of us, they are perfect.
There is LAN only mode you know ...
@@kind3r_sol Yes, but from others who had gotten inside, they also stored the previous jobs and details. Even after a full reset, once it eventually connected the it was sent with the current request.
This is why I said for NDAs and up it is a risk and can land you in jail.
Additionally, they get the Gcode as well for each print, the items could be remade by someone else. I don't think that would happen but it is theoretically possible.
But, as I said, for most of us, this would not apply.
@@RoseKindred I challenge your assertion. Your printer does NOT auto upload its print info/log or anything like that in lan mode or after a factory reset. Please point me to your sources
I have wireshark and a router monitoring traffic and nothing of what you are saying is true.
SD card only is an option
Lan only mode does not leak data or even attempt to look for the net.
Vlan works fine
sending files via FTP works fine
Cloud(obvious) connects to the cloud. but the other options are viable too but log data does NOT auto upload. Please see X1+ team for more info as they have unfettered access to the linux OS for a long time and none of what you are saying was found.
The ONLY time a log file is uploaded, optionally, is with a trouble ticket.
Source Owned an X1C for 2 years.
We use the Lan only mode at work
4:40 you literally have a 3d printing channel, and instead of 3d printing a piece you literally DRILL and use ZIP TIES FOR A BAMBULAB¿¿
Sending H8 for drilling through the bambulab piece without looking for the missing piece on the floor.
It's not your printer so why care?
Have you ever tried to find a screw after it falling on the floor. Its near impossible
@@shoegum7362 who hasn’t. We all think that it might’ve gone through a portal to another universe but I refuse to believe it and look for it until I find it.
@@DarrenBladez-p5p Your friend's dog gets ran over. Its not your dog so why care?
@@chaizon3053 because i did it
I’ve not had good success printing mini figures, but have had amazing results printing vehicles. I printed two leman russes from station forge and they look incredible.
I use 2mm nozzle at .06mm height. You need to be a bit creative with slicing and placement but holy crap they look awesome! And way more durable than resin prints. I can drop them off the table and barely have any damage to show for it.
I just love the little shots of your bunny 😍
I have had my A1 mini for about 2 months now, the tool headboard quit working and they sent me a free replacement one within days. I am very surprised by well it works. The speed and their customer service
i think the best way to describe the bambulab environment is that it really just, works.
brilliant thanks! I've got an adventurer 4, that I bought shortly before the bamboo came out, just as the anker make came out, and skipped the anker make due to the old style nozzle. seeing you change the nozzle means I can happily buy a bamboo printer when the adventurer dies
the adventurer has many problems that I seem to have finally fixed due to wear in, and rolling back to a functional firmware. but it's pretty reliable once you've worked out the kinks, but the bamboo is so much better.
I plan to ask my wife for one this Christmas. Really looking forward to printing some miniatures for my wargaming. I am not really worried about print times since it takes me like a week just to paint 4 or 5 miniatures. Looks like the .2mm nozzle is the way to go for smaller items in finer detail.
It works really well with the 0.2mm nozzle. You won't get too far with the 0.4mm included which is best for general use. I got an aftermarket 0.2mm nozzle off Amazon and it works perfectly, the A1 mini and full size both have a quick release for the nozzle to swap, much easier than on the X1 Carbon which I also have and bought first.
Wow! I haven’t really been that interested in getting a Bambulab printer until after this video. The software integrations with things like print-profiles are really interesting!
18:30 with big flat parts on the A1, the edges tend to peel up off of the plate. Just enough to look a bit wonky. Any big round or square parts, I use a healthy dose of glue stick, then I take paper towel, soak it in IPA, and spread the glue stick around nice and even.
But that is after I make sure that I either use a brim or the mouse ears, I do use Orca slicer not Bamboo slicer. I don't remember if mouse ears are on bamboo slicer. Mouse ears essentially are just tiny brims that only go on like very sharp corners to keep them from rising off the bed.
Also maybe bump up your bed temperature another 5°. And always have a deeper tool to get the little edges off. 🥂
Also, also, try adjusting your print temperatures. If the brim and the glue stick don't help. I tend to run my first layer cooler which kind of helps with oozing on the first layer too. But by thought, process is if it doesn't have to cool down as much, it might not warp as much. And it's strange that it's just such a slight amount of warping.
Good tips. I am getting curling edges on large flat prints.. it’s like the bed isn’t heated evenly at the edges.. I have tried brims (couldn’t find mouse ears in Bambu studio :( only in p slicer
23:13 as for the AMS taking up space, bambu provide you with files for a top mount bracket sytem that you print yourself so that the AMS mounts to the top of the printer so it only takes up vertical space. This along with alot of the other accessories, like the scraper, they provide you with the blade for it, but you have to print the handle yourself, I LOVE THIS. If they were to release an injection molded top mount bracket for the AMS, it would probably cost 60 or 70 bucks.
Bambulabs have published a bracket for the AMS which allows you to top mount it for a smaller footprint. It includes wedges to keep the printer stable and an adapter so there os still somewhere to put a spare spool that isn't part of the AMS.
Ha! I love that you bought the printer user MakerWorld points. I bought the X1C and now I’m an addict on MakerWorld, Ive gotten two AMS’, and I haven’t paid for filament in 6 months, and have almost 1,900 hours on my printer in that time. I love the points and I hope they don’t go away
Fuck yeah that's great!
The PETG support interface layer absolutely works with tree supports... It's just the interface contact patch is so small you don't really see it, but I've used it, and it works, you can watch it change filament to PETG when it prints for the support interface.
24:56 ive noticed that when using the option to select a specific support interface filament, it doesnt actually do the filament swap if the contact patch is too small, or too fat apart. Under advanced support options, change Top Z Distance and Top Interface Spacing to 0, and it should actually work.
Recently ordered an A1 and looking forward to trying it out. This is the best video I've watched regarding this printer. Super useful
You can indeed skip all the pre printing calibrations and just keep Bed levelling, but that entails changing startup GCodes. BambuLab probably will not offer support on errors if you do this, but I do it to mitigate that awful rumbling calibration thingy when I print late (it actually can be felt and heard throughout the house).
I have one Bambu P1s and one FLSun S1, When I need to print complex multi-color models, I fire up my P1S. When I'm printing larger models like helmets, I usually use the S1. I absolutely love them .
My Bambu Lab is my sixth 3D Printer, i clocked around 1100 hours in 7 month. Which is about twice as much as i clocked in the Time on my others printers. Totally i am around 6000-7000 hours. I have 3 DIY Kit printers and all my printers were upgraded to Autobed Level. My X1E takes around 5 minutes and with minimal Settings + Autobedlevel to start. Thing is: My other printers needed around 2-3 Minutes for Autobedlevel as well, especially my Tronxy-A5S-400 takes longer then my X1E. They all have moving beds and i think thats the difference, all Beds which move needs to be calibrated from time to time, fixed bed printers like a Voron 2.4 or a Delta don't need it. Personally i have #3 just dissambled and i am rebuilding it as an A1 Type Bed-Pusher: all Linear Rails with a Core XZ mechanism and i am looking to replace my slow Core XY with an Voron 2.4 style but i want to keep the 400x400x400mm capability. I simply don't print on it because it's to slow.
To increase the Printspeed: The Flowrate is atm the weakest point, there are Upgrade Options for the X1/P1 series like the ObXidian Hotends that drops the print times again, as Bambu Labs only have an Vulcan Style Nozzle, which is still considered a speed Nozzle. For the A1 there is a CHT Clone on Temu, which may double the extrusion but most likely increase it by 50%.
TL;DR: The Speed of the Bambu Labs printers is good and the Autolevel delay normal for an Bedmoving Printer.
What a pleasure it was to watch this video, awesome work dude!
Did you try water solvable supports? It would help tremendously on "support cleaning"
You can replace part of the start and finish G code using one of the templates that's available in the slicer. It significantly reduces the amount of time it spends doing checks and also produces less waste (afaik?).
Still haven't bought a printer. However, the Bambu Labs offerings just make sense. It's like adopting any other hobby - the initial cost lay out is just a hint at the overall costs. Keeping new filament available, a filament dryer solution, storage, time, learning curves, waste management, storage for finished prints, etc.... It's more than I can take on. Plus my wife keeps bringing up the negatives. After 30 years of marriage, it's best not to purposely do anything to start a conflict.
I just purchased a P1S last night. I can’t wait till it arrives.
What would be a comparable entry printer for resin printing to the a1 in FDM printing?
After years of stress filled printing with Other well known brands of fdm, I brought a A1. It was well worth it. From the WTF!!! as it 1st sets up, to the ease of slicing and sending the file to get printing without all the stress and worry of the SD cards and walking up and down stairs to the print room all day as it has a cam built in. Thats proper priceless. Even has a little LED light to brighten the shot at night. I will be buying another. They do say not to be used in a enclosure because the control boards got no assisted cooling, Well, i tinkercaded a wrap around cooler duct with a 120mm fan filling the two vents with cool air from below the enclosure, Its running perfectly printing ABS and Carbon with a HD nozzle. The Z uprights get warm though so i may extend the cooling.
Hey! Does the Bambulab A1 need ventilation if I'm just using PLA filament?
And related question, is PLA filament the best filament to use for FDM printing miniatures?
Thanks for the review. Any thoughts on fumes or the need for a vented area?
I think with PLA it's very low risk but I run an extraction fan on my room whenever I use one, but just having an open window should be fine
Careful with the spatula, the blades are far too sharp and will dig a lump out of your textured bed plate. Years ago I started with the infamous Anet A8 and spent a couple of years upgrading and changing almost every part other than the power cable to try and get a decent part for whatever needed fixed at the time and I ended up getting burnt out. I just recently got the P1S and had to printed the first print twice, just to believe how good it was and not just a fluke straight out of the box. What have all the other companies been doing for all these years when a newbie manufacturer can make and deliver not just 1 amazing printer but every one in the line up.
Some people baulk at the price but if you take a normal every day printer say an ender 3, spend more money on upgrades, things they don't have and reprints just to get a decent print there is not much of a difference in what you spend in the long run, and its all done fore you right out of the box. I'm sure even Prusa are shaking in their boots and with emptier pockets since these guys came along. Its just what the industry needed, a bloody good shakeup.
Great video! I was so exited to get my P1S--as you said, Bambu holds one's hand the entire way. I was able to jump right in to FDM due to Bambu's ease of use. Great company!
I just bought an A1/ams combo and am patiently waiting for it to arrive. I do wish it had a direct drive rather than a Bowden tube system, but the overwhelmingly positive reviews of this printer make me not care about that issue too much.
Can't wait to try it out.
most of the praise around the 9minute mark is prusa slicer praise tbh
the warnings are part of PS and the presets look like the ones in PS aswell
Thank you so much for this review and the other 2 vids.
Bought the A1 mini as my fist 3d printer after watching this and it has been a breeze.
Such a good introduction to 3d printing.
Awesome! Happy printing 🤘
How much cleaning up of stray filament strands have you had to do?
I used cura for vase mode prints. BambuLab and Orca still have a bug in vase mode that creates artifacts / seam otherwise it is a nice slicer. I don't know why they don't offer a cura profile by themselves.
I've been looking for a upgrade from my ender 3 I've hated how many times it broke and how i didn't understand what it did so i might get the bamboo labs for the handholding
Phew, I got one a few weeks back and even had to pull fewer screws! So they improved it so far. One day you just pull it out of the box and turn it on. They know what the average user wants, almost in a scary way. 😀
I bought to a1 mini after buying a p1p and I can definitely recommend the a1 mini as a starter AND if you're wanting to do multi color prints I like the AMS lite more than the AMS personally. However, don't knock uniformation! I just got the GW Two and it's been a game changer for printing!
You can definitely disable that 5 or however many minute period of time when it's starting up, but you'll likely have to add it to the gcode, i currently have a custom hot-end profile that skips at least 2/4 things it does (like scraping the nozzle on the bed)
Man why do I love to listen to AUS accents... LOL Just so entertaining. Great vid great review. Thanks!
The change in angle on the bases is a byproduct of the base going from the solid top to the hollow bottom. Basically the plastic is going to suffer from more contraction on the layers where there is more physical plastic. Google "benchy hull line" if you want to go further down that rabbit hole - but it's an enigma no one has figured out how to mitigate 100%.
You should really use the scraper only when you cant get some small fragments off. Otherwise your PEI plate is not gonna last long. For easy removal just take off the plate and flex it back and forth, once it has cooled down a bit.
Yeah I know ☺️ I just wanted to get some shots using it!
The scraper really is more of a crowbar lol, to get under the edge and then fulcrum lever it up to lift the part, and help clean stuck on bits off, but it’s also why the blade isn’t super sharp; but I’d recommend printing a plastic scraper for 99% of scraping.
The best thing for prying up parts without chewing up your bed is a high-quality flat blade for an oscillating multi tool. Cheap ones will work too, but you have to take the time to file and sand of any burr. You want them to be flat and sharp, but not sharp enough to dig, and will wide-radiused corners.
The Base issue looks like bed adhesion...the edges very slightly curl up and then cause the filament to "squish" differently for a few layers. Finger oils on PEI can cause this. Also too much part cooling can also cause this. Also having a draft hit the bed can cause it....Glue stick is a universal fix for this but its messy, if you don't mind post processing a brim in the slicer works. Had this issue with PLA on a few printers. Use a ruler to see if you layer touching the bed has some curvature.
I've printed many hundreds of bases in PLA and PETG and never have a problem with elephant's foot using the stock profile. It's only when I print an item with a large bottom layer that I get peel up. Nice wide brim usually fixes it.
Is there a difference in quality between these? Or just the size of the print?
Your Rabbit is super cute, i have just ordered a A1,seems a lot easier then my current Creality, keep up the good vids :)
The bases look like the first few layers' outer perimeters are pealing back off the bed for the first few layers.
Also, I love my A1 mini. I'd consider using the AMS, just for single color prints management, but how does one function in a humid region? Gives me chills seeing filament just sitting 'out'.
I live in Florida where it's always humid. But my printers are in the house and air conditioning greatly reduces humidity. It takes weeks for PLA and PETG to start misbehaving. It's only really a concern for those remnant rolls and that's why I have a drier.
The open nature of the ecosystem is a massive W
would you get the a1 now and not the mini if you could buy again 1th time_?
i got an a1 mini as my first fdm printer a few weeks ago, i had a resin printer as my first. I was immediatly underwealmed by the printer because it would fail to calibrate and the printer wouldn't work, so I had to reach out to customer support which is never fun, first message from them was asking if they tried the usual stuff you'd get from googling this problem. their second message to me was that they where sending me a new extruder unit, almost no hassle with the customer support, immediately shipped out an extruder unit after confirming the problem, every since I've gotten the new unity the printer has been working amazingly, its a really good first fdm printer
yeah man.... Bambu Lab is a great company. I just recently purchased a P1P as my first 3d printer and I couldn't be happier. The user experience with this company is CLEARLY a priority
Reviews like give beginners (like me) a lot of solid information. Thank you.
Bambu has always been a great company for entry level tech meets art products, I remember distinctly the stylus pads for digital art, back when I was in grade school.
Is the slow start up time just due to the bed heater warming up? It could be that the A1/mini have lower power bed heaters?
The A1 uses main power for the Bed, so it heats up pretty quick. It just does a lot of checks to ensure a perfect first layer, which it nails with great regularity.
What happeneds if it brakes down? Is there anyway replacing parts
Yeah replacement parts are available through Bambulab. I've stocked up on a few, and they ship fast and the pricing is actually pretty good imo.
Does the type of laptop (apple or non apple) matter when it comes to the slicing software required by the 3d printer?
Nope! Just that it has to be a desktop OS afaik. So no tablets or mobile devices
New to this, what type of plug is that, and how much power do they draw?
Used a P1S to print myself a bunch of Guardsmen, so, sooo worth it, no hassles and it works!!!
That's a lovely pet rabbit. Aww.
Glad you've finally gotten some of the amazing BambuLabs printers. I backed on the original KS and love my Carbon!
I've been eyeing these ones for a while. My question is if the mini is big enough that it'll work for terrain/other large models as that's kinda the main thing I want it for, but I can't figure out if I'll regret not having the bigger version (my space isn't super limited, but it's not like I have infinite space between my resin printer plus wash and cure station)
if you liked that little bedslinger.. wait until you get ur hands on a x1c with an ams. then you discover filaments that dissovle easy that you can use for supports. oh the joy of never picking off supports anymore, and the "exotic" filaments that suddenly is possible with a chamber that can do 50c are so cool!
My mrs and the kids treated me to a a1 for fathers day i hadnt told them i also ordered one for my mrs so we have two on the go now and loving them for toys for the kids 40k terrain and stuff for the house. Ive tried tons of filements best ive found is esun pla +
I'm not sure about the A1 AMS, but I have a P1S and the AMS is amazing because it's a dry box and it makes loading and switching filaments between prints sooooooo much easier. And it's also great because if one spool runs out of filament, it can load another spool, so you never get failed prints because of running out of filament
AMS Lite will switch spools as well, plus it handles cardboard spools with grace. I like it a little better than the original AMS. The way I go through filament, nothing last long enough to get wet, except all those leftovers that accumulate. But now with the Sunlu four slot drier, it's all good.
3 months using my mini I just realized I had that scraper blade sitting on my desk thanks to you and I think I used those screws for the spool holder bc I have a bag with two screws that says spool holder 😂💀 live and learn thanks
i am looking into a replacement fdm printer since the tronxy sucks. this was a helpful review. thank you.
You did the same thing I think a lot of us have done - you put the screws in the scraper wrong. They go in from the blade side, with the thumb grip on the plastic side.
I've put together four of the things, and I make the same mistake every single dang time.
fantastic video and loved the recap look at your experience with the two bambu printers. Killing it mate. Fantastic long format chill video
Cheers man! 🍻
I have a P1S and an X1C and absolutely love them. I have the AMS systems for both and two of them on my X1C. It’s awesome having backup filaments of multi color printing.