Nice work. 2 things I'd do differently. 1) Make the verticals detachable so the whole stand can be folded up and set up against a wall to open up more floor space. 2) Extend the frame so you can use an auto transmission to put the engine under load during break in. Some people swear it's absolutely necessary, others will swear it makes no difference. The trans can also be used to brake the engine in case of a run-away. I've got a 96 F250 5.8 / ZF-05 that needs a total rebuild (Plow truck) As you can image, crank endplay is only about 1/4"... It'll be nice to see it sitting in the 56' F350.
I have a super heavy duty engine stand that doesn't get much use. It is well engineered but I usually don't use it because of the size. With some additional work it could become a run stand.
I built one using the front stub from a dirt late model chassis. For one leg I used a trailer jack so regardless of the floor, you can keep all 4 wheels solid on the ground. I used a racing battery tray racing aluminum radiator and it already had mounts and a mid plate. The clip came from a car that had rear chassis damage and was too old to bother with a clip job. I've had medical problems and never did the final assembly work.
I did something similar with a K10 front frame section. I welded a small trailer axle under it and put a trailer tongue w/Jack on the other end. Welded up a radiator support and put my gauges/switches on it. It’s been a pretty good stand, a bit ugly but it was built outta junk laying around the shop and it does what my boys and I need.
stich weld on the casters is an ok option instead of fully welding. If you have any intent on keeping anything you are building you should really put in the time to make casters bolt on. Casters will break, they will rust, they are often undersized or lacking in quality. Larger casters often have slots that allow for fitting a range of bolt patterns so just put in some effort or make a jig to weld some nuts in place and you will save yourself some downtime in the future. Or over spec and service/grease your casters, most people rarely do that.
good job you two , but i highly advise you to install some additional casters underneath the actual engine mounts and the area where it supports the rear of the engine , these area`s are where the most weight is being supported , and those are the area`s where casters should have been mounted
@@0001070181 it is not the tubing itself , it is the area where he welded the engine supports , he should have shortened the square cage and welded the engine supports over the area where the castor wheels are located ,correct structural support , and not the area where it is unsupported and most prone to bending from the weight and vibrational stress
Any chance you guys have a Materials List, Build Plans, etc., available for downloading? This would make for an awesome baseline for others to build their own, AND it would remove a lot of the guesswork from such a project. I see the Parts List in the video description for the individual components used, which is GREAT! Thank you for that list.
If I could make a suggestion. Please don’t zoom in while they are welding. Obviously it’s not as bright as actual being there but it still pretty bright.
I understand that but seeing a bright flash from your phone, tablet or computer isn’t the most fun thing to look at. It’s just shot after shot of just flashing. Do it from a distance if they want a welding shot. Doesn’t have to be right on it is all I’m saying.
This is where I like to remind people that engines actually come in a running stand: the car they came from. Cut the frame off at the firewall. Already comes with a battery and radiator as well.
Four year ago i put my 70 lt1 350, On a old 57 chevy tk fram , had the short block since 1977, found heads & intake Put it all together, it fired up on the First click, 4 years later it in my 57 chevy cameo pickup, drove it up to My summer in show low az today Only that that passed was a couple Of new vetts,
Avoid welding casters, they're usually galvanised, zinc poisoning is fun right? The welding can also warp the bearing race and cause premature wear. They come with bolt holes for a reason.
Well done, sir. I will be doing, basically, the same thing soon. You utilized everything you had to build a functioning machine. My circumstances are slightly different, but I definitely am taking away some good ideas. Thank you, Sir,!
Why did you need a remote starter solenoid when the starter already had one ? Thinking I'd like to build one , I'd probably put the radiator off to one side - otherwise it's nearly as hard to work on as in the car 🤷
Dyno results have shown an increase of 10% in power for engines built on a stand that has been resprayed with Ford Blue. For sure. Honest. I wouldn't lie. Sincerely, Smokey Yunick.
Awesome possum!! We got an engine stand for our shop just so when we install an engine it's timed and ready. It also takes the wtf out of any gasket that might be leaking as well.
Best Job , Carcass E 3 - S 17 - Power Nation * || Cars Engineering Workshop * - Fabricating & Assambling Engine Running Stand - E 3 - S 17 Carcass , _ Thanks To, _ Power Nation* ,Channal, .... Cheerio.*****.
If you ever buy used engines, yes. Nothing like installing a so called good used engine only to find out it has to come back out of the car for repairs or worse!
Best Job , Carcass E 3 - S 17 - Power Nation * || Cars Engineering Workshop * - Fabricating & Assambling Engine Running Stand , _ E 3 - S 17 Carcass , _ Thanks To, _ Power Nation* ,Channal, .... Cheerio.*****.
Take a quick survey to be entered to win a $250 gift card: powernationtv.com/survey?
*_20k on a engine stand 🙄🙄🙄_*
Nice work. 2 things I'd do differently. 1) Make the verticals detachable so the whole stand can be folded up and set up against a wall to open up more floor space. 2) Extend the frame so you can use an auto transmission to put the engine under load during break in. Some people swear it's absolutely necessary, others will swear it makes no difference. The trans can also be used to brake the engine in case of a run-away.
I've got a 96 F250 5.8 / ZF-05 that needs a total rebuild (Plow truck) As you can image, crank endplay is only about 1/4"... It'll be nice to see it sitting in the 56' F350.
I'm ready to crank my SBC 385 stroker for the first time. Thanks for giving the info for me to build my own engine run stand
I have a super heavy duty engine stand that doesn't get much use. It is well engineered but I usually don't use it because of the size. With some additional work it could become a run stand.
I built one using the front stub from a dirt late model chassis. For one leg I used a trailer jack so regardless of the floor, you can keep all 4 wheels solid on the ground. I used a racing battery tray racing aluminum radiator and it already had mounts and a mid plate. The clip came from a car that had rear chassis damage and was too old to bother with a clip job. I've had medical problems and never did the final assembly work.
I did something similar with a K10 front frame section. I welded a small trailer axle under it and put a trailer tongue w/Jack on the other end. Welded up a radiator support and put my gauges/switches on it. It’s been a pretty good stand, a bit ugly but it was built outta junk laying around the shop and it does what my boys and I need.
Excellent Video
need episode from years ago where you all took a mustang hardtop and turned it into a fastback.
The video was amazing.😁
stich weld on the casters is an ok option instead of fully welding. If you have any intent on keeping anything you are building you should really put in the time to make casters bolt on. Casters will break, they will rust, they are often undersized or lacking in quality. Larger casters often have slots that allow for fitting a range of bolt patterns so just put in some effort or make a jig to weld some nuts in place and you will save yourself some downtime in the future. Or over spec and service/grease your casters, most people rarely do that.
I need to borrow this nice piece of EQUIPMENT….
Question: Did you electrically isolate the aluminum from the steel on the panel? Galvanic corrosion.
Where did you get that hand throttle???
have you ever thought about fixing and or tuning followers engines?
Where can I take an engine to a 2013 Ford Edge and have it tested before it goes into the vehicle?
Is there any cut list for material printable??
good job you two , but i highly advise you to install some additional casters underneath the actual engine mounts and the area where it supports the rear of the engine , these area`s are where the most weight is being supported , and those are the area`s where casters should have been mounted
Lol. That rectangle tubing is plenty strong to support that weight probably 5x
@@0001070181 it is not the tubing itself , it is the area where he welded the engine supports , he should have shortened the square cage and welded the engine supports over the area where the castor wheels are located ,correct structural support , and not the area where it is unsupported and most prone to bending from the weight and vibrational stress
Any chance you guys have a Materials List, Build Plans, etc., available for downloading? This would make for an awesome baseline for others to build their own, AND it would remove a lot of the guesswork from such a project. I see the Parts List in the video description for the individual components used, which is GREAT! Thank you for that list.
ya how about we buy it and cut it and weld it up for you too pal 🤪 !
@@justinriley8651 That would be great. Thank you for offering to do that for me. 😆
@@idmooseman not even in your hallucinations!
@@justinriley8651 🤣
Became a different project when the bent tubing was utilized. I’d just square it up.
You guys should've looked at the engine stands that SuperFlow uses for their engine dynos. Much more universal and could've saved a lot of time.
Is that the 427 Windsor Warrior motor that they dynoed at 610 hp
If I could make a suggestion. Please don’t zoom in while they are welding. Obviously it’s not as bright as actual being there but it still pretty bright.
I agree
The “brightness” from welding is not what damages your eyes, it’s the UV light.
I understand that but seeing a bright flash from your phone, tablet or computer isn’t the most fun thing to look at. It’s just shot after shot of just flashing. Do it from a distance if they want a welding shot. Doesn’t have to be right on it is all I’m saying.
Agreed.
This is where I like to remind people that engines actually come in a running stand: the car they came from. Cut the frame off at the firewall. Already comes with a battery and radiator as well.
Why zoom in when wielding . I feel like I need a damn helmet.
Ford is junk, but the bald guy seems to have enough pens in his breast pocket to know what he is talking about with a Ford ... 😂😂😂
First normal comment
Nophoekingway
7:18 very strong! Lol
Cool stand though, gives me ideas.
No locking casters?
Four year ago i put my 70 lt1 350,
On a old 57 chevy tk fram , had the short block since 1977, found heads & intake
Put it all together, it fired up on the
First click, 4 years later it in my
57 chevy cameo pickup, drove it up to
My summer in show low az today
Only that that passed was a couple
Of new vetts,
Avoid welding casters, they're usually galvanised, zinc poisoning is fun right? The welding can also warp the bearing race and cause premature wear. They come with bolt holes for a reason.
Well done, sir. I will be doing, basically, the same thing soon. You utilized everything you had to build a functioning machine. My circumstances are slightly different, but I definitely am taking away some good ideas. Thank you, Sir,!
Why did you need a remote starter solenoid when the starter already had one ?
Thinking I'd like to build one , I'd probably put the radiator off to one side - otherwise it's nearly as hard to work on as in the car 🤷
Dyno results have shown an increase of 10% in power for engines built on a stand that has been resprayed with Ford Blue. For sure. Honest. I wouldn't lie. Sincerely, Smokey Yunick.
You guys should get a Cadillac ATS and ls swap it. With manual transmission. Would love to see how the professionals would do it
Awesome possum!!
We got an engine stand for our shop just so when we install an engine it's timed and ready. It also takes the wtf out of any gasket that might be leaking as well.
Plasma table? Well I think most people might not have one of those laying around.
Bitchin stand- Thanks for the great video
you guys need to do an engines masters type show..
Best Job , Carcass E 3 - S 17 - Power Nation * || Cars Engineering Workshop * - Fabricating & Assambling Engine Running Stand - E 3 - S 17 Carcass , _ Thanks To, _ Power Nation* ,Channal, .... Cheerio.*****.
Why put the controls at the front instead of like other stands where it's at the rear?Yes I know you won't answer.
Filming purposes
🙌🔥❤️
cool build but is this a useful item?
If you ever buy used engines, yes. Nothing like installing a so called good used engine only to find out it has to come back out of the car for repairs or worse!
@@craighansen7594 thanks for the reply that makes a lot of sense!
Why would you weld a gas tank not safe at all, they make glue for a reason
Best Job , Carcass E 3 - S 17 - Power Nation * || Cars Engineering Workshop * - Fabricating & Assambling Engine Running Stand , _ E 3 - S 17 Carcass , _ Thanks To, _ Power Nation* ,Channal, .... Cheerio.*****.