I feel like unless you’re living life 1/4 mile at a time, reliability should always be one of the two choices from the triangle. But even then, I’m sure reliability carries a different connotation for the application.
reliability is a term meaning different things to different people, but as Brian Earl Spellman found out, it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...you have to cross the finish line to win, place, or show. Hole shots mean nothing when the engine blows halfway to the finish line. but you also need to plan the rest of the car--800bhp is great but if only 500 reaches the ground...or you only apply 200 hp because you couldn't afford to upgrade your drum brakes...
@@BruceLee-xn3nn which is why they get trailered :) no seriously, why would a 6 digit car on the side of the road look bad? it means its being used for its purpose. "Shift" happens in life. Yes, the pro shop SHOULD have test driven it and worked the bugs out before handing it over to the customer. but plenty of new cars off the assembly line have recalls.
You guys at POWERNATION really have a solid crew at both studios. I love listening to Tommy make up sayings on the fly, it’s like my uncle and grandpa are in my ear haha. Oh can’t forget the Ohio man himself whos tuned every engine I’ve ever dreamed of owning 😅 Frankie you’re badass! And Pat you are too man! I died laughing on the episode when both of you were finishing a dyno pull and Pat concerned said “The engine is still running?!” *👀 👁 👁* I think it was the 4.3 engine build 😂
Pat's "That's four P's" had me laughing lol. I would love to see these guys step out of their comfort zone. I would be more than happy to help with Engine Power's first rotary build. I currently have 27 rotary assembly's under my belt and just finished my first peripheral port 13B build. I love the V8 stuff but it's good to expand your knowledge as well.
PAT!! I hope to meet you someday. One of my TV celebrity heroes!! Your knowledge is astounding. Watching you work is identical to watching an artist create, a musician compose, a surgeon operate. I am moments away from building my Ford FE 390. To go in my 98% original 1968 Mustang GT.
I saw a comment on how someone didn't like Frankie trying to act smarter and more knowledge than Pat and his years of engine building and I gotta say, every time I watch EnginePower, I love the duo personalities, whether they are just TV projected or how they actually are.
I'd like to see you all put together a torquey truck motor like a 454. Something that lives in the 1000-5000 rpm range. This is a lot more realistic to a bunch of us than something that makes power at 3500-6500 rpm range.
I’d love to see you guys do a video on a early c4 corvette l98 tpi build! I’d love to build my vette engine to 500whp but don’t even know where I’d start, or if it’s even worth upgrading internals or if the block needs to be upgraded. Maybe w video on spliced 2 bolt engines vs 4 bolt sbc builds. It’s so hard to find any videos on the older vehicles, everyone and their girlfriend have a ls build. Hell even doing a build to try to replicate the c4 sledgehammer (turbo c4 vette that held the worlds fastest car speed for about 20 years)
Landscaping is the same way, you have to make a plan. A desired end. You have to consider how big the plant is going to be at maturity and if and when they bloom or are evergreen.
I’m interested to see that O’Reilly LQ9 with a 102 Fast intake manifold and the 54-459-11 Comp Cam! I’m putting that combination in my old school with a 4L80. I’m hoping to produce over 500 hp!
Reliability was my biggest concern. Built a 355 stroker for my Holden (Aussie gm branch) strong af bottom end but a small hydraulic cam and not crazy head flow. 335hp na at the fly. Now I'm bolting a side mount on with about 7psi all in. We'll see where that ends up in the reliability scale 😅
I would like to see u guys doing the same with a 4 cylinder. I know u guys r called horse power but I know u can get a lot of power of the little engines.
I have been watching you guys for years... Have you ever thought about checking out and upgrading an electric motor? I know you guys deal in different power plants etc think about an electric motor in the future...
Good guide. One thing though, polishishing is way outdated information. A 40 grit finish far exceeds flow characteristics. Try it yourself, but please don't misinform your audience before researching many updated sources. Nobody knows everything, as do I.
I'm still waiting for a tow engine build. Highway hauler. What can be done to maximize low rpm torque and fuel economy in a large rig. Uses would be work truck, tow rig, daily driver. We have thousands of wrench vids for drag cars. Not many for the truck that hauls them.
If you are looking to get maximum torque for towing yet keep mileage at a good area, stay with a stock engine. Because that is exactly the plan at the factory. Now if you want better miles per gallon, that can be done but you would have to sacrifice some torque. If you want maximum torque, you'd have to sacrifice them miles per gallon.
@@stephenhodge6441 That was true in the days of carburetors. With variable boost, valve timing, injector pulsewidth, and even fuels (e85 on secondary injectors) this is no longer the case.
@@stephenhodge6441 It is if you can use it only during heavy load conditions, and then tune for sipping gas the rest of the time. Ever look at Nelson Racing Engines? Jekyll and Hyde is possible, just not simple to do.
It'd be nice if you explained the 10.0 - 10.5 to 1 static compression needed for 500 horsepower. Like how much compression for 550 horsepower?. Instead of saying, "We know from previous data and Dino runs".... That would help people watching his video understand the process a little better.
El video perfecto, para los que buscamos como modificar nuestro motor. Esto me servirá para planear la reconstrucción de mi viejo chevy 350 busco 380 a 420 hp
I would have requested this test be the cheaper to buy and more available 5.3 LS rather than the 6.0 version to hit their 500 HP mark. This engine was stock except for the cam and induction chosen.
I watch a lot of y’all’s videos on building engines but when y’all install and degree the cams could y’all show what to do if it don’t degree like you want or what the book/specs says it should be and how to adjust it to degree correctly
I wanted to ask you guys what you think about the coyote platform? Real St racing is getting 2500hp+ &1500+pft and going for more using stock block stock crank and stock heads which is just mindblowing . Your thoughts?
I can't say too much. I don't wear pens in my pocket. Because, my pens would never fit into a pocket. I have to use solo cups. Apparently, I've been told, I have a thing for Sharpie's. They may be right! You can name a color of Sharpie, and I'll have it.
Man… showing off these crazy race engines and I’m sitting over here with a 3.0 HP per CI on a stock motor with a few bolt ons… something ain’t right here
Excuse my ignorance but can you run that LQ9 with a carb and that ignition box and not have to use an ecu? Seems like it would simplify the hell out of the install.
I’m wanting to make my 2.8L v6 into a sleeper it’s in a 1988 Camaro wondering how I should plan my engine build accordingly I don’t want it to be a full fledged racing engine but would want to know that I have the horsepower when I need it any suggestions or tips for me on this sincerely Eddie Hubbard
Can you please explain how you determine what the redline or max rpm that an engine will turn. For example the engine that yall built on the show. How did you know when to stop throttle input. Thanks Derek.
I believe they used a 'rule of thumb' for the max 'average piston velocity' they expected that this stock bottom end was good for. As I understand it, it's largely about the inertial forces the reciprocating components (piston/rod/wrist pin) experience rapidly accelerating and de-accelerating, and the loads that imparts on the crank (thus why ideally you'd have pistons & rods that are both very strong AND very light). I believe the average piston velocity is used as a somewhat simplified way to represent those inertial loads. Caveat: I'm not really an engine guy - I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Personally I'd be interested in seeing them do something other than a car/truck engine like maybe a sled pulling tractor engine like a farmall M and making it somewhat reliable but maximizing its power
It'd be the exact same as Ny other scenario bud. Port, polish heads with 3 angle valve job. Configure your compression ration and see if you want turbo or make use of the port and polish with a huge cam
@@johnsonbobo2376 I get that we have all that done on are pulling M with a big carb bored and stroked a little bit making around 100 hp around 2.5x factory but would be interested if they could get more power out of it while keeping it reliable there's people we pull against making more power the biggest i think is around 120-130hp with the same kind of engine but there's aren't as reliable and it has to be NA
How does static compression ratio tell you you'll make 500 hp, isnt static CR a meaningless stat? If your calves are open after BDC or have a lot of overlap, your actual CR could be low AF...
You can add a cam only and some stock 706 heads and make 500 crank... goodness not really "building" an engine your just sliding one of the many already tried and true cams in and another set of stock heads.
Thanks gentleman for the program. I didnt enjoy watching this, because LS,s dont realy sound right and power changes with temperature and dont barkup on the street.
Check out Richard Holdner's channel for tons of different engine combos and the dyno info on what they do and how they are spec'd out. Be honest about what you want to do with the motor. Follow what somebody else has already done and proven. Understand there is no magic to anything in engine building engines with similar displacements, compression ratio, head flow, cam specs, intakes, and exhausts all make similar power.
I have a ‘90 454. I want to do a 496 stroker. Would like 700+hp and as close to that in torque in the 7k rpm range on Pump gas. Street/strip application. Backed by a Muncie 4 speed and moser 9” with Eaton posi running 3:73’s. What do you guys recommend for the build i.e; heads, cam, carb/intake, timing chain/timing, distributor, plugs/wires, roller rockers, etc?? Would love to hear your input and advice!! Thanks in advance!!
It is still shocking that Powernation does not know how a cam is choosen. YOU DONT CHOOSE THE CAM, YOUR ENGINE CHOOSEN WHAT IT WANTS BASED ON YOUR BUILD SPECS... There is a cam formula widely available to use FOR FREE. Dont follow the formuula, you give up torque and horsepower. ALREADY DYNO PROVEN. What a shame.... Also, WRONG LSA... This is another flaw. Engine specs determins LSA. Better to be one degree tight, than one degree wide. LCA is an INPUT, not a output.
Cheap is nothing you will ever see on power nation as they do $1500 worth of machine work on everything and $500-$800 on useless stuff like ARP oil pan bolts and water pump bolts and carb bolts ... you know the bolts that you do not need expensive bolts ..
Power nation is not a show centered around showing hot rodders how to build stuff so much as to showcase expensive parts that WE know WE do not need ... The last thing you ever see is for them to show us how to make free horsepower unless it is by fashioning a tool or a part they cannot get a paid sponsor for to "give" them the part for free or a kick back in sales. It is like when you look around the shop they have those tools and equipment were not purchased they were given to them as free advertisement. The only stuff they pay for is stuff where you see the name tags or model number plates removed so as not to accidentally give free press to the company that refused to bow down and give them a free piece of equipment. This show is run and produced by TV people not hot rodders . So every build they show of a quick and easy build might just have a 35 THOUSAND dollar build cost when all is said and done. The dyno time of tuning a new engine alone bill might exceed the normal guys build budget.
Here's a great explanation taken from from the Morehouse Torque Calibrationwebsite: The Proper Way To Express Torque Units Is Lbf·ft Or N·m Morehouse will always make an effort to educate the masses on the proper way to express torque units. Looking at several scopes, manufacturer's specification sheets, and other sources, as a metrology community, we do not always express units of torque properly. Torque = Force * Length This means N·m is acceptable, lbf·in is acceptable, and lbf·ft is acceptable. ft·lbf or in·lbf is not the conventional method for expressing torque. You will not find this as an accepted expression of torque in the ASTM torque standard (ASTM E2428) or any NIST handbook. You will find several manufacturers expressing torque the improper way. The foot-pound force (symbol: ft·lbf) is a unit of work or energy in the Engineering and Gravitational Systems in United States customary and imperial units of measure. It is the energy transferred on applying a force of one pound-force (lbf) through a linear displacement of one foot. A pound-foot (lbf·ft) is a unit of torque or moment of force (a pseudovector). One pound-foot is the torque created by one pound force acting at a perpendicular distance of one foot from a pivot point. Torque is derived from the SI units of Length, Mass, and Time. The metre is the SI base unit of length. The kilogram is the SI base unit of mass. The second is the SI base unit of time. T. The improper use of torque units can easily be corrected. When you see manufacturers using ft·lbf on a torque specification, let them know the proper way to express torque is Force times Length. So remember to express torque in lbf·ft, lbf·in, lbf·oz, or N·m. Torque Conversions Per NIST sp811 The proper way to express torque units The proper way to express torque units - SI Units Guide
Watch more Engine Power: ua-cam.com/video/zu6oJjyWabk/v-deo.html
Thanks for the return of “TechTip” with these episodes. Roots are there for a reason; they are proven successes.
From the TNN days to now, my friends thank you for the many years of entertainment and knowledge.
Can you make a video on how to choose a transmission to match with the engine?
Pat and Frankie are my favorite Power Nation gurus.
Pat and Frankie knock it out the park on this episode! Great job on the presentation and information! Textbook stuff right here!
I'd love to see an engine build focusing on a wide rpm range monster torque gasoline, non- forced induction, street engine.
I feel like unless you’re living life 1/4 mile at a time, reliability should always be one of the two choices from the triangle. But even then, I’m sure reliability carries a different connotation for the application.
Especially if your planning on doing drag & drives or no prep events with large car counts where you possibly have to go many rounds.
reliability is a term meaning different things to different people, but as Brian Earl Spellman found out, it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...you have to cross the finish line to win, place, or show. Hole shots mean nothing when the engine blows halfway to the finish line. but you also need to plan the rest of the car--800bhp is great but if only 500 reaches the ground...or you only apply 200 hp because you couldn't afford to upgrade your drum brakes...
Having an expensive looking hot rod broke down on side of road is embarrassing.
@@BruceLee-xn3nn which is why they get trailered :)
no seriously, why would a 6 digit car on the side of the road look bad? it means its being used for its purpose. "Shift" happens in life. Yes, the pro shop SHOULD have test driven it and worked the bugs out before handing it over to the customer. but plenty of new cars off the assembly line have recalls.
@@albertgaspar627 yeah ive alot of new cars fkd up. When it's a hot rod and broke down it looks like owner is a terrible mechanic
You guys at POWERNATION really have a solid crew at both studios. I love listening to Tommy make up sayings on the fly, it’s like my uncle and grandpa are in my ear haha. Oh can’t forget the Ohio man himself whos tuned every engine I’ve ever dreamed of owning 😅 Frankie you’re badass! And Pat you are too man! I died laughing on the episode when both of you were finishing a dyno pull and Pat concerned said “The engine is still running?!” *👀 👁 👁* I think it was the 4.3 engine build 😂
It's nice to see how Pat and his grandson work well together
Woah😂😂😂 shots fired😅
Only thing missing is great grandpa Joe who has since retired 😂
Glad the FE was brought out long live the beauty FE!!!!!
Thank you for disseminating information, most people don’t appreciate this knowledge!!!👍😸
Man, I would pay good money for Frankie and Pat to rebuild my motor🇺🇸👍
No doubt you would have to.
I love the little presentation board you have. my dad got me into cars and man I love this youtube channel
Pat's "That's four P's" had me laughing lol. I would love to see these guys step out of their comfort zone. I would be more than happy to help with Engine Power's first rotary build. I currently have 27 rotary assembly's under my belt and just finished my first peripheral port 13B build. I love the V8 stuff but it's good to expand your knowledge as well.
This is perfect. I just started planning for a build I'm putting in a 1979 Z28
PAT!! I hope to meet you someday. One of my TV celebrity heroes!! Your knowledge is astounding. Watching you work is identical to watching an artist create, a musician compose, a surgeon operate. I am moments away from building my Ford FE 390. To go in my 98% original 1968 Mustang GT.
I saw a comment on how someone didn't like Frankie trying to act smarter and more knowledge than Pat and his years of engine building and I gotta say, every time I watch EnginePower, I love the duo personalities, whether they are just TV projected or how they actually are.
He's just young, young people think they know everything.
@@BruceLee-xn3nn or maybe, just maybe, it’s misdirected enthusiasm
A much needed episode
Thank u guys😇😇
I'd like to see you all put together a torquey truck motor like a 454. Something that lives in the 1000-5000 rpm range. This is a lot more realistic to a bunch of us than something that makes power at 3500-6500 rpm range.
Not really. Just use stock equipment Nd presto chang- o
I agree.
True
Usually a 454 that makes sweet power from 3500-6500 also makes pretty darn good tq at 2000 though
I’d love to see you guys do a video on a early c4 corvette l98 tpi build! I’d love to build my vette engine to 500whp but don’t even know where I’d start, or if it’s even worth upgrading internals or if the block needs to be upgraded. Maybe w video on spliced 2 bolt engines vs 4 bolt sbc builds. It’s so hard to find any videos on the older vehicles, everyone and their girlfriend have a ls build. Hell even doing a build to try to replicate the c4 sledgehammer (turbo c4 vette that held the worlds fastest car speed for about 20 years)
The time, money, quality triangle is in every build.
Good solid reliable power , over the top is fun but more expensive. LoL always enjoy the technical videos, I geek out on that stuff
Those huge slopping down oil pans make me shiver, in a bad way. Please make a episode about that
Very informative episode.
Landscaping is the same way, you have to make a plan. A desired end. You have to consider how big the plant is going to be at maturity and if and when they bloom or are evergreen.
I’m interested to see that O’Reilly LQ9 with a 102 Fast intake manifold and the 54-459-11 Comp Cam! I’m putting that combination in my old school with a 4L80. I’m hoping to produce over 500 hp!
O'Reilly remanned LQ9? Or do they sell brand new crate motors?
Richard holdner has made, I believe that exact test on his channel
@@archangel2781 reman with 4 year warranty!
Is a 4 l80 a transmission for a camaro?
Really makes me want to build up my 5.3L Silverado. Cam, exhaust, and some sort of forced air product would make it a spicy daily.
This is a great video. Super useful.
This was good, thank you.
Reliability was my biggest concern. Built a 355 stroker for my Holden (Aussie gm branch) strong af bottom end but a small hydraulic cam and not crazy head flow. 335hp na at the fly. Now I'm bolting a side mount on with about 7psi all in. We'll see where that ends up in the reliability scale 😅
Another 155 horsepower for sure
Just sayin, bit more cam and a bit less boost is more reliable than just more boost
I would love to see you guys do something way less popular and totally out of your wheelhouse. Mercedes OM648 diesel!
G54b in a Starion
Cool video!
There is more power in that engine combo just with a bit more compression and a mild port and performance valve job on those heads.
You guys should really team up and do a video with Richard Holdener. Be great to see a all cams are turbo cams video
I would like to see u guys doing the same with a 4 cylinder. I know u guys r called horse power but I know u can get a lot of power of the little engines.
I have been watching you guys for years... Have you ever thought about checking out and upgrading an electric motor? I know you guys deal in different power plants etc think about an electric motor in the future...
Frankie is slowly morphing into Pat
Good guide. One thing though, polishishing is way outdated information. A 40 grit finish far exceeds flow characteristics. Try it yourself, but please don't misinform your audience before researching many updated sources. Nobody knows everything, as do I.
You guys should do a v6
I'm still waiting for a tow engine build. Highway hauler.
What can be done to maximize low rpm torque and fuel economy in a large rig. Uses would be work truck, tow rig, daily driver.
We have thousands of wrench vids for drag cars. Not many for the truck that hauls them.
If you are looking to get maximum torque for towing yet keep mileage at a good area, stay with a stock engine. Because that is exactly the plan at the factory. Now if you want better miles per gallon, that can be done but you would have to sacrifice some torque. If you want maximum torque, you'd have to sacrifice them miles per gallon.
@@stephenhodge6441 That was true in the days of carburetors.
With variable boost, valve timing, injector pulsewidth, and even fuels (e85 on secondary injectors) this is no longer the case.
@@Heathh49008 boost has never added mpg and neither has e85.
@@stephenhodge6441 It is if you can use it only during heavy load conditions, and then tune for sipping gas the rest of the time.
Ever look at Nelson Racing Engines? Jekyll and Hyde is possible, just not simple to do.
I remember when Chevrolet bragged about their 283 CI engine making 283 HP.
This is a great episode, as I plan on having my 351w rebuilt this fall.
Dont agree. Gm motors sould crap and dont bark up much 👎
It'd be nice if you explained the 10.0 - 10.5 to 1 static compression needed for 500 horsepower. Like how much compression for 550 horsepower?. Instead of saying, "We know from previous data and Dino runs".... That would help people watching his video understand the process a little better.
Every 1point in compression is worth 4% profit HP return for your power adders
I'd still love to have that mopar for Mt 1985 dodge w100 classic
El video perfecto, para los que buscamos como modificar nuestro motor. Esto me servirá para planear la reconstrucción de mi viejo chevy 350 busco 380 a 420 hp
They did both of us a favor..I was looking for a SS monte build
I would have requested this test be the cheaper to buy and more available 5.3 LS rather than the 6.0 version to hit their 500 HP mark. This engine was stock except for the cam and induction chosen.
I watch a lot of y’all’s videos on building engines but when y’all install and degree the cams could y’all show what to do if it don’t degree like you want or what the book/specs says it should be and how to adjust it to degree correctly
I wanted to ask you guys what you think about the coyote platform? Real St racing is getting 2500hp+ &1500+pft and going for more using stock block stock crank and stock heads which is just mindblowing . Your thoughts?
What we call a small block is called a big block everywhere else in the world.
How would you 2 convert to E85 will it be special part for that as well including do we have to change the fuel pump really as well
When are you going to do a project with the new BPE 4 cylinder LS motor?
Can Pat get anymore pens in his shirt pocket?
I can't say too much. I don't wear pens in my pocket. Because, my pens would never fit into a pocket. I have to use solo cups. Apparently, I've been told, I have a thing for Sharpie's. They may be right! You can name a color of Sharpie, and I'll have it.
Man… showing off these crazy race engines and I’m sitting over here with a 3.0 HP per CI on a stock motor with a few bolt ons… something ain’t right here
As a engine builder i got plenty of power but now im short on transmissions and rear ends that can handle it lol
Excuse my ignorance but can you run that LQ9 with a carb and that ignition box and not have to use an ecu? Seems like it would simplify the hell out of the install.
What's the best parts to use to build a chevy 4.3 v6 vortec
I’m wanting to make my 2.8L v6 into a sleeper it’s in a 1988 Camaro wondering how I should plan my engine build accordingly I don’t want it to be a full fledged racing engine but would want to know that I have the horsepower when I need it any suggestions or tips for me on this sincerely Eddie Hubbard
Can you please explain how you determine what the redline or max rpm that an engine will turn. For example the engine that yall built on the show. How did you know when to stop throttle input.
Thanks Derek.
I believe they used a 'rule of thumb' for the max 'average piston velocity' they expected that this stock bottom end was good for. As I understand it, it's largely about the inertial forces the reciprocating components (piston/rod/wrist pin) experience rapidly accelerating and de-accelerating, and the loads that imparts on the crank (thus why ideally you'd have pistons & rods that are both very strong AND very light). I believe the average piston velocity is used as a somewhat simplified way to represent those inertial loads.
Caveat: I'm not really an engine guy - I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
That's why I asked. I'd like to know so when I build my engine I don't blow it up.
Personally I'd be interested in seeing them do something other than a car/truck engine like maybe a sled pulling tractor engine like a farmall M and making it somewhat reliable but maximizing its power
It'd be the exact same as Ny other scenario bud. Port, polish heads with 3 angle valve job. Configure your compression ration and see if you want turbo or make use of the port and polish with a huge cam
@@johnsonbobo2376 I get that we have all that done on are pulling M with a big carb bored and stroked a little bit making around 100 hp around 2.5x factory but would be interested if they could get more power out of it while keeping it reliable there's people we pull against making more power the biggest i think is around 120-130hp with the same kind of engine but there's aren't as reliable and it has to be NA
Tpi videos would be great, what to do with those motors to get some power out of them.
Competition products doesn't sell factory s like the other magazine companies do
I've always wondered if the dyno runs are at sea level air pressure.
I have a 2005 6
O Chevrolet 6.0 I want achieve 500 to 600 hp. What should I do to achieve that between 5 and 6 thousand rpm.
intake n carb, exhaust, valve size and or cam and or turbo!!?? I still have no idea what to do just to get my 85 ford 300 to not be a dog.
I would like to see Engine Power build a 10,000 rpm engine.
Motorcycle?
Which two are each one?
How do you figure out how much compression you need
Can you have a small block ford 363 engine do maybe tens at the drag strip and still be a daily driver?
Of course you can. Just depends on what you're prepared to deal with. Big gear, big cam, big exhaust, high compression. Or you can add boost.
Pontiac 350 build up. Something a little different.
I'm wondering can I have my motor rebuilt by you guys? Obviously I would pay the rate and parts.
All you need is a boatload of performance parts from Summit, a tricked-out garage & of course some special tools. :>}
me too bud.
@@Alpha-ro8sc nope. I’ve got all that. What is really needed is their knowledge.
How does static compression ratio tell you you'll make 500 hp, isnt static CR a meaningless stat? If your calves are open after BDC or have a lot of overlap, your actual CR could be low AF...
Reliable, cheap to own, and run. Then, as powerful as possible.. mmm diesel?
Not at all.
6.2 ls and your done don't need to buy so expensive parts for a old carbonated
Numbers.... how much for total cost
See how they talk around that
You can add a cam only and some stock 706 heads and make 500 crank... goodness not really "building" an engine your just sliding one of the many already tried and true cams in and another set of stock heads.
Would you guys do a video on how to make a strong subaru ej20 or ej25 engine.
Plan: step one be rich
Thanks gentleman for the program. I didnt enjoy watching this, because LS,s dont realy sound right and power changes with temperature and dont barkup on the street.
🙂👍🏻
Check out Richard Holdner's channel for tons of different engine combos and the dyno info on what they do and how they are spec'd out.
Be honest about what you want to do with the motor.
Follow what somebody else has already done and proven.
Understand there is no magic to anything in engine building engines with similar displacements, compression ratio, head flow, cam specs, intakes, and exhausts all make similar power.
I have a ‘90 454. I want to do a 496 stroker. Would like 700+hp and as close to that in torque in the 7k rpm range on Pump gas. Street/strip application. Backed by a Muncie 4 speed and moser 9” with Eaton posi running 3:73’s. What do you guys recommend for the build i.e; heads, cam, carb/intake, timing chain/timing, distributor, plugs/wires, roller rockers, etc?? Would love to hear your input and advice!! Thanks in advance!!
Pat lose weight?
No White guilt!!❤❤❤
wrong channel
HOVSE PVWER
wat
@Arthur Sperotto Just a friendly reminder to not let people make you hate yourself for the way you were born! 🤍
@@archangel2781 which is irrelevant to this video. Go spout your political agenda elsewhere lol
It is still shocking that Powernation does not know how a cam is choosen. YOU DONT CHOOSE THE CAM, YOUR ENGINE CHOOSEN WHAT IT WANTS BASED ON YOUR BUILD SPECS... There is a cam formula widely available to use FOR FREE. Dont follow the formuula, you give up torque and horsepower. ALREADY DYNO PROVEN. What a shame.... Also, WRONG LSA... This is another flaw. Engine specs determins LSA. Better to be one degree tight, than one degree wide. LCA is an INPUT, not a output.
Know your end use.
Stick to a budget.
There. I saved you 21:20 of your life.
Good day...
Cheap is nothing you will ever see on power nation as they do $1500 worth of machine work on everything and $500-$800 on useless stuff like ARP oil pan bolts and water pump bolts and carb bolts ... you know the bolts that you do not need expensive bolts ..
Power nation is not a show centered around showing hot rodders how to build stuff so much as to showcase expensive parts that WE know WE do not need ... The last thing you ever see is for them to show us how to make free horsepower unless it is by fashioning a tool or a part they cannot get a paid sponsor for to "give" them the part for free or a kick back in sales. It is like when you look around the shop they have those tools and equipment were not purchased they were given to them as free advertisement. The only stuff they pay for is stuff where you see the name tags or model number plates removed so as not to accidentally give free press to the company that refused to bow down and give them a free piece of equipment. This show is run and produced by TV people not hot rodders . So every build they show of a quick and easy build might just have a 35 THOUSAND dollar build cost when all is said and done. The dyno time of tuning a new engine alone bill might exceed the normal guys build budget.
idiots=Pounds FEET...????
Here's a great explanation taken from from the Morehouse Torque Calibrationwebsite:
The Proper Way To Express Torque Units Is Lbf·ft Or N·m
Morehouse will always make an effort to educate the masses on the proper way to express torque units. Looking at several scopes, manufacturer's specification sheets, and other sources, as a metrology community, we do not always express units of torque properly.
Torque = Force * Length
This means N·m is acceptable, lbf·in is acceptable, and lbf·ft is acceptable.
ft·lbf or in·lbf is not the conventional method for expressing torque. You will not find this as an accepted expression of torque in the ASTM torque standard (ASTM E2428) or any NIST handbook. You will find several manufacturers expressing torque the improper way.
The foot-pound force (symbol: ft·lbf) is a unit of work or energy in the Engineering and Gravitational Systems in United States customary and imperial units of measure. It is the energy transferred on applying a force of one pound-force (lbf) through a linear displacement of one foot.
A pound-foot (lbf·ft) is a unit of torque or moment of force (a pseudovector). One pound-foot is the torque created by one pound force acting at a perpendicular distance of one foot from a pivot point.
Torque is derived from the SI units of Length, Mass, and Time. The metre is the SI base unit of length. The kilogram is the SI base unit of mass. The second is the SI base unit of time. T.
The improper use of torque units can easily be corrected. When you see manufacturers using ft·lbf on a torque specification, let them know the proper way to express torque is Force times Length.
So remember to express torque in lbf·ft, lbf·in, lbf·oz, or N·m.
Torque Conversions Per NIST sp811
The proper way to express torque units
The proper way to express torque units - SI Units Guide