You did a great job! Just purchased the same boat and look forward to doing upgrades. Really like how you hooked up your trolling motor. Like you, can't wait to get on the water! Thanks for the tour.
If I go every couple days or so, the single panel maintains the battery just fine. If I try to go every day, I get concerned by the end of the day. Lithium Iron Phosphate is the only way to go.
I just purchased the Teton Pro 116 (aka Yukon Pro) at Dick's. Love your video highlighting some advanced mods made possible for the unit. Thanks a ton! I too have 3D printing capabilities and will definitely employ them for my Kayakong adventures.
Thank you. After a couple years, most needed to be rebuilt or changed but it was a fun project and I learned a lot. This year I refined the kayak and picked up an old boat. Let the adventure continue. My goal since moving here has been to learn watercraft. I would love to try out Superior even though the big water still scares me. Four years now and I haven't hit Mille Lacs yet and it's only 20 minutes away. End goal and bucket list item would be to go from Superior out of Duluth to Chicago or maybe one day do America's Great Loop. Not necessarily in a kayak, because I'm starting to catch the olds. Sorry to ramble but your comment inspired. Dug your chip challenge too BTW.
Thank you. I hope that it inspires you with yours. My kids (using paddles) slow me down and I'm kinda over towing them so another one may be in the future.
I definitely have more mods on here than I ever needed. Winter is coming so I'll be moving it back to the basement to refine what I've learned. After two seasons with this configuration I am ready for and know what needs changing. Either way, I love my Yukon and often take it out without the motor or other accessories attached. There is something to be said about keeping it clean and simple. I hope you enjoy yours. Thanks for the comment.
Congrats on the new Yukon. Start small with the mods and take your time. You won't regret the end result. Be sure to check out my sea trials if you haven't already. This kayak has far exceeded my expectations. Good luck with your project.
Pretty slick setup man. It’s all awesome. From experience though, I can tell you that if you have side scan, you will lose coverage being up inside scupper. It reduces my side scan range to about 30’ so I added some foam and it’s still protected but I get about 70’ now. Liked and subscribed to see how the journey goes 🤙🤙
I have practically the same setup on the exact same boat but bike cables for steering is genius. I used stainless steel cable in icemaker tubing...didn't work great. i did install a PWM which quadrupled my battery life though. liked and subbed
I do highly recommend making that change to bicycle cables. :) Glad I was able to give you some inspiration. Currently I'm working on an old boat which has all new challenges. Good luck with your project/adventure.
@@SciStuff Ha ha Same here, Working on a '85 Grumman 14' deep v tinny w/ 25hp Suzuki 2 stroke. Added LED lighting, bimini top, center console with steering, throttle, trailer overhaul. My wife says I prefer the modifying of machines more than the using the "damn" things...😆
Thank you. The entire build was a fantastic experience. I've been taking it out as often as possible over the summer and don't have any regrets. Good luck with your build.
Nice setup. I have the same kayak and I now going to do newer mods to it for the steering. I'm using foot peddle now but I'm going to do handle only and just elimate my foot peddles
I wanted the foot pedals to keep my hands free for fishing. But now that you mention it, it would be nice to put a swivel where I mounted the throttle. Adding cables there sure would have been easier. If I ever get my hands on another Yukon, I'm gonna try that. Running electric would still be tricky (without adding the rear hatch) unless I just crate the battery (I kinda like it in the front). Hell, I haven't even tried this setup on the water yet cause the damn lakes are still frozen and already you got me thinking about how to mod the next one. Thanks man ;)
@@SciStuff check out my videos when you have a chance I try to minimize alot of weight and add on. So that's why I want everything inside the kayak so it would look clean .
Just today after I was done fishing I was just looking at my kayak and just thinking about how I could upgrade it. I have the same kayak just a different color. I don’t know how I feel about drilling holes and stuff yet. And I know it was probably a lot of work to get that the way you have it. But I hope I can make a set up eventually that’s just as cool.
I read a series of books a while back that's main logic was to focus on the solution instead of the problem. Once you get started, drilling holes won't be the part that makes your thoughts race at night. When I got my kayak, using a paddle was fine but I did want more. I spent the next Minnesota winter in the basement tinkering on weekends and after work. I learned a lot through the mistakes I made but the biggest thing I learned was that if it doesn't work that way, don't be afraid to take it apart and try again. When spring hit, I never looked back. The time, effort and thought were well worth the reward. There are several lakes nearby that are 1000+ acres and they no longer make me feel tired when I look at them.
It's called TrafficMaster. You can find it with a quick search. It's attached to the deck with industrial velcro on the corner of each square. Water can still flow around it and out the scupper holes and pulling it out for cleaning is a breeze.
I have the same kayak. what size is the lid you put on the back. I had the same idea wasn't sure how good it would be but after seeing this I think I will definitely go with what I was thinking
Thank you for the comment. The rear hatch is 6". I measured/cut the hole and did the interior work before fully installing the hatch. I think out of it all, the biggest secret is using those bicycle brake cable sheaths. I got 20' on Amazon for ~$20. Good luck on your project.
The way you have your trolling motor head setup is exactly how I want to do it. What exactly did you do to remove the head and extend the cables? My thought is to cut the shaft then cut and extend the wires, so I can place the head next to my seat like you have it. Please explain your process. I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm using a Newport Vessels 32lbs thrust motor. There are six screws under the bottom of the head. Take those out and the top comes off the head. The six wires that come up the main tube are attached to the regulator. They detach easy enough (mark your wires and where they attached, four go to the motor and two to the battery). Once disconnected you can slide them out of the head assembly. Be sure to leave them sticking out the tube. I then added the PVC tube, new wires to the regulator and made them long enough to stick out the bottom of the PVC. Use good wire management in the head or you will regret it. The rest is just putting it all back together and running wires where you need them. Again, labeling is the most important and test along the way to makes sure you did it right. Good luck with your build, I know you won't regret it, I sure don't.
@@SciStuff Thanks so much for your response. I was thinking about just cutting the head off with like 4” of shaft below it cut away a little more shaft to expose wires, and then extend the wires. Do you think that is possible and bypass taking the head off and apart?
@@thamesford1433 The problem you may encounter is which wire goes where. I would suggest taking the head fully off. Then you can add/extend the wires from there and also get a better idea of how your motor works. If you need to shorten the shaft, I understand but I would always rather disconnect a wire before I cut a shaft. Then maybe cut the shaft.
I have the same kayak and rigged my motor up similar to yours. But I'm curious about the steering with the pedals? How'd you get the wire thru the holes you drilled. From one to the other. I think I'm just gonna run mine on the outside/on top. And can u explain more how you got your foot pedals to move free? Thank you. Love the set up
I used bicycle brake cable sheathing and pushed it through the hole in the front where I was able to grab it from the hatch hole I made in back. I could then feed it up into the back holes. Once in place, sliding cable through the sheathing is easy. I'll post a more detailed video about the steering once I get out of the basement but for now… There are C clips that prevent the pedals from sliding off the rails on the ends closest to the seat. They just clip around the rails and if you slide a standard screwdriver in under the bottom you can pop them off. Then you can slide the pedals off and see how to remove the clips which lock their location.
@@SciStuff way cool. Ya. I already cut a hole in the back to mount my bracket for the motor. So I don't think I will be doing another one. I patched it up and sealed it. Thanks for the quick reply. 🙌🏼
@@trevorkylesthingsarbon1195 I'd still suggest using that bicycle cable sheathing. I got 20' for like $20. If running on the outside, you shouldn't need near as much.
I was also nervous about this process at first. There are six screws under the bottom of the head. Take those out and the top comes off the head. The six wires that come up the main tube are attached to the regulator. They detach easy enough (mark your wires and where they attached). Once disconnected you can slide them out of the head assembly. Still leave them sticking out the tube. I then added the PVC tube, new wires to the regulator and made them long enough to stick out the bottom of the PVC. Use good wire management in the head or you will regret it. I used tape and even pout an extra screw in through the side to make sure the wires stayed where I put them. The rest is just putting it all back together and running wires where you need them. Again labeling is the most important and testing along the way to makes sure you did it right. Good luck with your build, I know you won't regret it, I sure don't.
After cutting the hole, I sanded down the sharper areas and applied a generous amount of silicone under the hatch lip before screwing it tightly into place.
Yes, I sealed it all the way through and fished it through the interior with a clothes hanger from the back hatch that I cut in. Since this video however I have made a lot of changes. I now just put my battery in the back so when things go awry it is easier to troubleshoot. I posted a short of the initial sea trial earlier this week. Now I am refining it and will keep my battery in my crate. When I get some time here I'll post a longer video of the changes I made wince this video. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you. It has treated me well the past two years. This year I think I am going to avoid running electric through the hull. I'll keep the steering the way that it is but it's easier to just pop the battery on the back and hook it up to my control box. Video for that coming soon. If and when I get around to it. :)
How did you get the foot pads to slide? I have the Tamarack pro. I removed the clip but my foot peddles do not slide at all. They can move if I push hard. I used silicone lube but they still wont move easy.
Thank you for the comment. The pedals will be hard to push if the cables are not encased. I ran the cables through bicycle break cable sheathing. You can see more details about this on my other video “Lifetime Yukon Kayak with Foot Steering Trolling Motor Walk Around”. The difference with and without the sheathing is night and day. In that video you can see how smooth it is since I steer it with a single finger.
@@SciStuff on mine even with nothing attached, the pedals have a lot of friction. They just don't slide easy at all. Did you lube them or anything? It looks like the rail is slightly bowed because of the shape of the kayak. You didn't by chance remove the center rivet?
@@curtiseppley3230 I slid the foot peddles fully off the rails then removed that little latch that allows you to lock them in place. I didn't modify the rails or use any lubricants. If yours don't slide freely with the latches removed, it could be a defect with your rails or peddles. You may be able to use a file or sandpaper on the peddles where they hold around the rails to widen any rubbing areas.
It was called YXGOOD 6'' Deck Plate Kit Kayak Deck Hatch. There are a large variety of hatches that would have also worked. I may upgrade to a larger one in the future.
of all the RIDICULOUS stuff that i've seen on a kayak. never in all my days being on this earth over thirty years. BOAT OR KAYAK! I HAVE NEVER EVER EVER EVER SEEN AN OSCILLATING FAN ON A BOAT......as my father would say...NOW I HAVE SEEN IT ALL.! -keep fishing everybody!
Yeah it is a bit much but I only take it on heavy mosquito or hot days. Truth be told, it makes paddling impossible in it's current configuration. Glad I installed that trolling motor. I'll show the updated mount in the near future. ;) -keep fishing
Depending on the manufacturer, it shouldn't be much bigger if any. Be sure to double check the measurements on that hatch before you order one. I can troll around with my 40 all day and haven't run out of power yet.
@@SciStuff ok I don’t plan on trolling just using it to get about a mile and a half into the bayou and back but sometimes there’s current so not sure of what thrust to get also. I’m on some kayak groups on Facebook I will have to do more research thanks for the reply I like the way you rigged it out
@@bloodOntheStep I'm gonna try to hit the upper Mississippi around the end of the month (it's small up here in MN). It will be the first time that I've tried it on a river or in a current. Good luck on your project.
@@jacobmussey3003 I ran them inside the hull from the battery up front. I used a clothes hanger to fish them from front to back. I have other videos on my channel that show this is more detail.
Battery ~12lb (lithium cause lead acid would be ~40lb), Motor ~19lb and the rest of my gear is also right around 20lb max. Weight limit for the Yukon is 350 and I weigh 200 so I've still got room to grow.
That is an amazing set up, the way you rigged the foot rest to control the trolling motor blew my mind!
Thank you. It has since exceeded my expectations and keeping your hands free makes fishing much easier.
I think this is the cleanest and best Yukon kayak setup I've saw. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it and hopefully were inspired you.
You did a great job! Just purchased the same boat and look forward to doing upgrades. Really like how you hooked up your trolling motor. Like you, can't wait to get on the water! Thanks for the tour.
Thank you, it's been a fun build. I will post an update once I get it on the water.
It’s a great platform for the price. I love mine!
I love the idea of a solar setup 😍
If I go every couple days or so, the single panel maintains the battery just fine. If I try to go every day, I get concerned by the end of the day. Lithium Iron Phosphate is the only way to go.
I just purchased the Teton Pro 116 (aka Yukon Pro) at Dick's. Love your video highlighting some advanced mods made possible for the unit. Thanks a ton! I too have 3D printing capabilities and will definitely employ them for my Kayakong adventures.
I'm glad you liked the video and I know you will love the kayak. Be sure to check my other videos where I give it a full sea trial.
I have the same boat. Just added electronics and the trolling motor is next. Very nice setup
Enjoy the build.
This is an absolutely brilliant setup!
Thank you. It sure handles nice and I have no regrets. Be sure to check out the sea trial videos.
@@SciStuff Will do!
LOL, I fish on Lake Superior, No fan needed.. Nice video my friend.
Thank you. After a couple years, most needed to be rebuilt or changed but it was a fun project and I learned a lot. This year I refined the kayak and picked up an old boat. Let the adventure continue. My goal since moving here has been to learn watercraft. I would love to try out Superior even though the big water still scares me. Four years now and I haven't hit Mille Lacs yet and it's only 20 minutes away. End goal and bucket list item would be to go from Superior out of Duluth to Chicago or maybe one day do America's Great Loop. Not necessarily in a kayak, because I'm starting to catch the olds. Sorry to ramble but your comment inspired. Dug your chip challenge too BTW.
Amazing set up. I have the same kayak. Have had for a couple of years now. Again amazing job you've done on your yak haks.
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you. I hope that it inspires you with yours. My kids (using paddles) slow me down and I'm kinda over towing them so another one may be in the future.
This is a crazy set up. I just bought a lake house n got two of thes kayaks. Don’t think il be doing all this, but nice to know I could.
I definitely have more mods on here than I ever needed. Winter is coming so I'll be moving it back to the basement to refine what I've learned. After two seasons with this configuration I am ready for and know what needs changing. Either way, I love my Yukon and often take it out without the motor or other accessories attached. There is something to be said about keeping it clean and simple. I hope you enjoy yours. Thanks for the comment.
Man I love this build! Great work👍👍
Thank you! I have several videos of the sea trials. It is much quieter and smoother than I expected.
Man, this is inspiring. I just got this kayak and haven't modded it yet at all.
Congrats on the new Yukon. Start small with the mods and take your time. You won't regret the end result. Be sure to check out my sea trials if you haven't already. This kayak has far exceeded my expectations. Good luck with your project.
@@SciStuff I'd love to pick your brain on a few things as I mod if you'd indulge me?
@@seanodonnell4601 Sure what you got planned? You can also get my E-mail address from my channel's About page.
Pretty slick setup man. It’s all awesome. From experience though, I can tell you that if you have side scan, you will lose coverage being up inside scupper. It reduces my side scan range to about 30’ so I added some foam and it’s still protected but I get about 70’ now. Liked and subscribed to see how the journey goes 🤙🤙
Thank you for the sub, like and advice.
I have practically the same setup on the exact same boat but bike cables for steering is genius. I used stainless steel cable in icemaker tubing...didn't work great. i did install a PWM which quadrupled my battery life though. liked and subbed
I do highly recommend making that change to bicycle cables. :) Glad I was able to give you some inspiration. Currently I'm working on an old boat which has all new challenges. Good luck with your project/adventure.
@@SciStuff Ha ha Same here, Working on a '85 Grumman 14' deep v tinny w/ 25hp Suzuki 2 stroke. Added LED lighting, bimini top, center console with steering, throttle, trailer overhaul. My wife says I prefer the modifying of machines more than the using the "damn" things...😆
@@dangareau Ah but the rewards from the tinkering when you do go out just can't be measured.
Outstanding work, just purchased two of the same kayak. One I plan to trick out.
Thank you. The entire build was a fantastic experience. I've been taking it out as often as possible over the summer and don't have any regrets. Good luck with your build.
Nice setup. I have the same kayak and I now going to do newer mods to it for the steering. I'm using foot peddle now but I'm going to do handle only and just elimate my foot peddles
I wanted the foot pedals to keep my hands free for fishing. But now that you mention it, it would be nice to put a swivel where I mounted the throttle. Adding cables there sure would have been easier. If I ever get my hands on another Yukon, I'm gonna try that. Running electric would still be tricky (without adding the rear hatch) unless I just crate the battery (I kinda like it in the front). Hell, I haven't even tried this setup on the water yet cause the damn lakes are still frozen and already you got me thinking about how to mod the next one. Thanks man ;)
@@SciStuff check out my videos when you have a chance I try to minimize alot of weight and add on. So that's why I want everything inside the kayak so it would look clean .
@@smileszlovesz8145 you’ve definitely got some great stuff 🤙
Just today after I was done fishing I was just looking at my kayak and just thinking about how I could upgrade it.
I have the same kayak just a different color. I don’t know how I feel about drilling holes and stuff yet. And I know it was probably a lot of work to get that the way you have it. But I hope I can make a set up eventually that’s just as cool.
I read a series of books a while back that's main logic was to focus on the solution instead of the problem. Once you get started, drilling holes won't be the part that makes your thoughts race at night. When I got my kayak, using a paddle was fine but I did want more. I spent the next Minnesota winter in the basement tinkering on weekends and after work. I learned a lot through the mistakes I made but the biggest thing I learned was that if it doesn't work that way, don't be afraid to take it apart and try again. When spring hit, I never looked back. The time, effort and thought were well worth the reward. There are several lakes nearby that are 1000+ acres and they no longer make me feel tired when I look at them.
What did you use for the deck padding and how did you keep it down? I have the same kayak and have been wanting to do something like that.
It's called TrafficMaster. You can find it with a quick search. It's attached to the deck with industrial velcro on the corner of each square. Water can still flow around it and out the scupper holes and pulling it out for cleaning is a breeze.
I use the same stuff from harbor freight 👍
I have the same kayak. what size is the lid you put on the back. I had the same idea wasn't sure how good it would be but after seeing this I think I will definitely go with what I was thinking
Thank you for the comment. The rear hatch is 6". I measured/cut the hole and did the interior work before fully installing the hatch. I think out of it all, the biggest secret is using those bicycle brake cable sheaths. I got 20' on Amazon for ~$20. Good luck on your project.
The way you have your trolling motor head setup is exactly how I want to do it. What exactly did you do to remove the head and extend the cables? My thought is to cut the shaft then cut and extend the wires, so I can place the head next to my seat like you have it. Please explain your process. I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm using a Newport Vessels 32lbs thrust motor. There are six screws under the bottom of the head. Take those out and the top comes off the head. The six wires that come up the main tube are attached to the regulator. They detach easy enough (mark your wires and where they attached, four go to the motor and two to the battery). Once disconnected you can slide them out of the head assembly. Be sure to leave them sticking out the tube. I then added the PVC tube, new wires to the regulator and made them long enough to stick out the bottom of the PVC. Use good wire management in the head or you will regret it. The rest is just putting it all back together and running wires where you need them. Again, labeling is the most important and test along the way to makes sure you did it right. Good luck with your build, I know you won't regret it, I sure don't.
@@SciStuff Thanks so much for your response. I was thinking about just cutting the head off with like 4” of shaft below it cut away a little more shaft to expose wires, and then extend the wires. Do you think that is possible and bypass taking the head off and apart?
@@thamesford1433 The problem you may encounter is which wire goes where. I would suggest taking the head fully off. Then you can add/extend the wires from there and also get a better idea of how your motor works. If you need to shorten the shaft, I understand but I would always rather disconnect a wire before I cut a shaft. Then maybe cut the shaft.
I have the same kayak and rigged my motor up similar to yours. But I'm curious about the steering with the pedals? How'd you get the wire thru the holes you drilled. From one to the other. I think I'm just gonna run mine on the outside/on top. And can u explain more how you got your foot pedals to move free? Thank you. Love the set up
I used bicycle brake cable sheathing and pushed it through the hole in the front where I was able to grab it from the hatch hole I made in back. I could then feed it up into the back holes. Once in place, sliding cable through the sheathing is easy. I'll post a more detailed video about the steering once I get out of the basement but for now… There are C clips that prevent the pedals from sliding off the rails on the ends closest to the seat. They just clip around the rails and if you slide a standard screwdriver in under the bottom you can pop them off. Then you can slide the pedals off and see how to remove the clips which lock their location.
@@SciStuff way cool. Ya. I already cut a hole in the back to mount my bracket for the motor. So I don't think I will be doing another one. I patched it up and sealed it. Thanks for the quick reply. 🙌🏼
@@trevorkylesthingsarbon1195 I'd still suggest using that bicycle cable sheathing. I got 20' for like $20. If running on the outside, you shouldn't need near as much.
Freakin awesome man
Thanks man. I've got a couple of videos of the sea trials too. Smooth steering and quieter than a paddle.
Thankyou for some great ideas
I am happy to hear that I'm inspiring your project. Good luck in your venture.
I want to do the exact same with my Newport Vessels motor. Can you explain the process for taking the head off and extending it like you did? Thanks!
I was also nervous about this process at first. There are six screws under the bottom of the head. Take those out and the top comes off the head. The six wires that come up the main tube are attached to the regulator. They detach easy enough (mark your wires and where they attached). Once disconnected you can slide them out of the head assembly. Still leave them sticking out the tube. I then added the PVC tube, new wires to the regulator and made them long enough to stick out the bottom of the PVC. Use good wire management in the head or you will regret it. I used tape and even pout an extra screw in through the side to make sure the wires stayed where I put them. The rest is just putting it all back together and running wires where you need them. Again labeling is the most important and testing along the way to makes sure you did it right. Good luck with your build, I know you won't regret it, I sure don't.
you did a great job men I wish I could do the same on my kayak 👌
Thank you.
How did you seal up around the new hatch because there are the trenches/dips lines
After cutting the hole, I sanded down the sharper areas and applied a generous amount of silicone under the hatch lip before screwing it tightly into place.
How did you pass the bone cable from one end to an other? And did you seal it?
Yes, I sealed it all the way through and fished it through the interior with a clothes hanger from the back hatch that I cut in. Since this video however I have made a lot of changes. I now just put my battery in the back so when things go awry it is easier to troubleshoot. I posted a short of the initial sea trial earlier this week. Now I am refining it and will keep my battery in my crate. When I get some time here I'll post a longer video of the changes I made wince this video. Thanks for commenting.
So helpful! Thank you!
You are most welcome. Have fun with your build.
Really awesome
Thank you. It has treated me well the past two years. This year I think I am going to avoid running electric through the hull. I'll keep the steering the way that it is but it's easier to just pop the battery on the back and hook it up to my control box. Video for that coming soon. If and when I get around to it. :)
How did you get the foot pads to slide? I have the Tamarack pro. I removed the clip but my foot peddles do not slide at all. They can move if I push hard. I used silicone lube but they still wont move easy.
Thank you for the comment. The pedals will be hard to push if the cables are not encased. I ran the cables through bicycle break cable sheathing. You can see more details about this on my other video “Lifetime Yukon Kayak with Foot Steering Trolling Motor Walk Around”. The difference with and without the sheathing is night and day. In that video you can see how smooth it is since I steer it with a single finger.
@@SciStuff on mine even with nothing attached, the pedals have a lot of friction. They just don't slide easy at all. Did you lube them or anything? It looks like the rail is slightly bowed because of the shape of the kayak. You didn't by chance remove the center rivet?
@@curtiseppley3230 I slid the foot peddles fully off the rails then removed that little latch that allows you to lock them in place. I didn't modify the rails or use any lubricants. If yours don't slide freely with the latches removed, it could be a defect with your rails or peddles. You may be able to use a file or sandpaper on the peddles where they hold around the rails to widen any rubbing areas.
What's the size & brand of the rear hatch you've installed?
It was called YXGOOD 6'' Deck Plate Kit Kayak Deck Hatch. There are a large variety of hatches that would have also worked. I may upgrade to a larger one in the future.
of all the RIDICULOUS stuff that i've seen on a kayak. never in all my days being on this earth over thirty years. BOAT OR KAYAK! I HAVE NEVER EVER EVER EVER SEEN AN OSCILLATING FAN ON A BOAT......as my father would say...NOW I HAVE SEEN IT ALL.! -keep fishing everybody!
Yeah it is a bit much but I only take it on heavy mosquito or hot days. Truth be told, it makes paddling impossible in it's current configuration. Glad I installed that trolling motor. I'll show the updated mount in the near future. ;) -keep fishing
Do you have links to the products you have installed?
Sorry but I do not. Most of it is from Amazon or Walmart.
Dang I wonder if a 50 ah battery would fit
Depending on the manufacturer, it shouldn't be much bigger if any. Be sure to double check the measurements on that hatch before you order one. I can troll around with my 40 all day and haven't run out of power yet.
@@SciStuff ok I don’t plan on trolling just using it to get about a mile and a half into the bayou and back but sometimes there’s current so not sure of what thrust to get also. I’m on some kayak groups on Facebook I will have to do more research thanks for the reply I like the way you rigged it out
@@bloodOntheStep I'm gonna try to hit the upper Mississippi around the end of the month (it's small up here in MN). It will be the first time that I've tried it on a river or in a current. Good luck on your project.
How did you get the wood block to attach to the transom.
That is explained in the video at about 6:20, right after I cover the rear hatch I installed.
How did you set up the back plugs for the motor and what are the components
@@jacobmussey3003 I ran them inside the hull from the battery up front. I used a clothes hanger to fish them from front to back. I have other videos on my channel that show this is more detail.
What exactly did you do with the gear shifter components and the power cables because they used to run right up through the bottom of the gear shifter
What's the overall weight of that vessel
Battery ~12lb (lithium cause lead acid would be ~40lb), Motor ~19lb and the rest of my gear is also right around 20lb max. Weight limit for the Yukon is 350 and I weigh 200 so I've still got room to grow.
@@SciStuff that's a great looking rig !!
@@mechanicmike2858 Thanks, now I just need the lakes to melt so I can give it all a full test. :)