That way of raising the motor out of the water is genius, also actually affordable. Ive seen setups that require you to buy and install expensive hydraulic things with extra wires. I like this much better and will definitely be trying it on mine
This is an amazing and super helpful video. Thank you for putting the links to everything in the discription, that was super helpful. You deserve more credit and more likes man.
@@LunkerHunter a street elbow is basically a female end on one end of the elbow and male end on the other. Will fit right into the second regular elbow. No need for the little stub of pipe to connect them.
Very cool video man. Thanks for sharing your set up. I’m in the process of making a very similar set up on my kayak for trolling the high Sierra lakes near me for Kokanee and trout. Great job creating the video, you cover everything very thoroughly and I picked up a few tips for sure 🤙🏼
Just found this, great walk-through. I have the motor, battery, steering but lacked the PWM. Always nervous about taking apart a perfectly good motor and re-wiring (no electrical bkground). You made it look doable. Thanks.
Man!!! I'm sure part of why I feel this way, is because I have this kayak (except that, here in Southern Cali, it's branded as the Lifetime Teton Pro - though "Yukon" sounds better), but this has by far been the best DIY modding I have seen on a kayak that wasn't exactly designed for all these things! Amazing, amazing job, and thank you for making this video. Much much respect for how cleanly you rigged this thing out! I think the finishing touches (assuming you haven't done so by now already), would be to paint the 2x4, the motor mount brackets, and the pvc pipe joints black!
@@LunkerHunter100% to each their own! With all the craftsmanship you put into this, I shoulda known that you'd've painted it if you wanted to! Haha! Again, nice work, and thanks for sharing!
There’s a control box for winches with a wireless remote that you can keep on your self and press stop button in an emergency. I was debating adding to my kyak just before the pwm. It’s basically a key fob with a stop button, and a small module box.
This is definitely one of the best DIY kayak builds I’ve seen without breaking the bank! I really like how you built the mount for the trolling motor. I have a good idea on how I’ll start my build! 23:18
Nicely done. I didn't have space for a transom adapter on my Folbot kayak, so built a custom 3D printed motor mount without any of the factory trolling motor transom parts. Originally had a pulley to raise the motor (similar to this video), but it tended to twist the motor to one side as it was raised. I then changed to a DC gearmotor winch to raise the motor, no twisting as it is raised. Then added a second DC gearmotor to tilt the motor completely out of the water. It required finding just the right gearmotor with a worm drive so it is self locking in any position of tilt. The nylon tilt gears were 3D printed.
I have experience with trolling motors on my canoe , you are looking pretty good with your set up . I see you are bumping a few logs , it’s a good idea to have a oh about 16” paracord doubled and wrapped around the shaft and motor tilt lock lever , go through the loop end and pull the lever against the shaft , wrap once or twice with a half hitch just in case you hit a bigger log the mo will hopefully tilt over it rather than break something , you can also tilt the motor up some if you happen to get to shallow , get you another battery and put up front , will help more with weight distribution and if you get carried away and run one down you have another to get back home on , good luck , great to see ya wearing your life vest
Nicely done sir! Thank you for the video, I've started getting into kayaking because of my son, who is obsessed with fishing and I just got a nice kayak but need to do a build like this. Thank you so much
Hey LunkerHunter: Enjoyed seeing your choices. I just this week finished building mine and saw we did some things alike and some obviously different. More than one way to "skin a cat" they say. I never thought of vertically lifting the motor shaft or strapping a rudder plate to it. Saw your left/right steering elsewhere earlier, but opted for true hands-free paracords to my foot braces. I chose a Joinfworld 6x6x4 Outdoor Electrical Box and used the existing controller taken out of the head of the MINN KOTA motor and ran extensions from it to the 4 motor wires in the shaft (plus battery wires) so all 6 using SAE pigtails like you did.
You have a very nice setup. It is super similar to the way mine is setup. The only thing I did different was put basically a stick steer mounted to my seat and I crossed the lines at the back so when you steer left it goes left and vice versa for right. Awesome job keep up the great work.
I absolutely love this set up! This is going to save me a lot of money in time compared to what my original plan was! Thank you so much for the great video! I’m looking forward to building a very similar set up for my vibe yellowfin 130 T
You have some very useful info here on making kayaking more convenient. About your steering. If you were to raise the point where those cables go from the ground up to the middle (maybe use a few pulleys behind the seat so the cables are sitting halfway between bottom and top of the motor travel) of the vertical travel of your trolling motor then you wouldn’t have to loosen it up to put the motor higher or lower.
Very inspiring!! I wonder if you could introduce some shock cord in the steering lines that would provide the stretched length necessary when lifting the motor out but otherwise stay taught when just steering? That way you wouldn't have to undo the steering line in order to lift the motor up.
Fantastic Job, thanks for making this informative and just enough detail. Will use most of this on my kayak mod. I would consider stainless for all fasteners and liquid tape for all electrical connections.
Nice, thoughtful motor mods. I've been running my NK300 motor on 2 different kayaks, one using a homemade hand steering and one using pedal steering. Both have issues. Seriously looking into the fiberglass rod method of steering - I rejected that idea initially but might be the most effective - basically long distance tiller steering!
@@LunkerHunter I tested my Slayer 13 with my repurposed graphite fishing rod tiller steering and the NK300 motor yesterday. Incredible! Great control, no hangups, smooth! No more cable issues! Thanks for your input!
Awesome! Getting ready for my mod I like this idea 👍 is there a reason you made the bracket so long ? Maybe balance ? I have a different kayak would like to make mine shorter . Thanks !
nice job , i would how ever at the back cross the steering cables for correct steer so you don't have to think about it in an emergency situation, the other would be a one way valve for the venting of the box for fan and last but not lest a emergency pull off tug line so if by chance you get knocked off the yak when on it wont run away from you . but great job well done on the concept
this was shared in fb for instruction so great job. I'm concerned with all mounting to the hull even with gusset reinforcement this is not impact resistant. Things happen faster than the telescoping can assist. I'd sacrafice reverse for a free swing. if you hit any unknown below the mass of the yak will be transferred to the hull mounting.
There is some give when you hit something. The mount is not attached to the kayak on the back, which allows for some movement. I’ll post a video soon demonstrating.
Great video…but I wished I’d seen it yesterday. I spent hours rigging up a lever steering system and then did the pulley raise system only to find out that you cannot do this while keeping your steering lines taught (as you mentioned). I can do the lever steering if wanting to pull motor horizontal but that line has to be at top of motor and not thrilled with “clothesline” look since have crates and battery. Unfortunately cannot do your steering system as I have a Nucanoe Unlimited with track seating. I wouldn’t be able to adjust my seats.
@LunkerHunter just showed my buddy and think we are going to try it out. I'll try and make a video and tag you for the cred. Sweet idea man. Much love from BC Canada 🇨🇦
Hey man if you cross the steering ropes in the back and run it the same way. Its will change the way u have to pull. So pull right go right. If that makes sense. Great work and video
question... do you know of a way to keep the battery monitor from the head since I am going to keep battery in drywell instead of box it would be awesome to still know how much battery I have left. Great video I am in the process of order parts now thank you!
Great setup sir. One thing I don't understand about the PWM is the lack of venting. Even with a fan that air needs to exchange in order to cool the electronics. Does anyone have a solution to that? I haven't been able to resolve it. Respectivly thank you.
Nope. You could cut some vents under the box. Maybe then rain water wouldn’t get in. But I have run it in 100 deg with no issues yet. I agree with your statement though
Great video and great explanation. Do you ever have trouble with the PWM controller overheating? The fan is nice, but since it is in an enclosed, water sealed box, I'm not sure how much good it's actually doing since it can't pull cool air in from anywhere...
I've got a 5' caiman boat and it comes with a foot guided trolling motor system. My biggest problem is where to store a tackle box and keep fish if you get into a bunch of crappie. These things are really for mobile fishing and catch and release. It's hard to stay stationary very long.
Then it wouldn’t be water proof. Any suggestions how to do this, keeping it somewhat waterproof? I agree that the pwm needs batter air flow. I just hesitate sacrificing the water proof aspect.
What wires do I need to extend the connection from the trolling motor to the pwm box? I am confused on how to get the yellow white and black wires to reach the PWM. Thanks for these videos btw! They are very helpful
Don’t worry about the yellow wire. Just red and black. Red and black goes from motor to pwm. Red and black from batter goes to pwm. amzn.to/3OC420C I used these for my pwm connectors.
If you change it to where it tilts forward out of the water instead of straight up you can keep the steering tight .i just ziptied a Keychain ring right to the top of the motor pole and drilled a hole in the top of the yak just in front of the motor .ran it all the way up to betweej my legs where it pops out and a quick pull will raise it out of the water and forward into the rear deck.also makes it more stable than staying out on the back
I chose not to do it this way due to the increased torque it puts on the gear tracks when you tilt it. I also don’t that you have to keep the motor unlocked when doing it this way. There are way to do it with a locking/unlocking mechanism, but that was too many lines running through the yak. Either way should be functional, but I don’t understand how that way would make it more stable though. To me this makes everything less stable.
@LunkerHunter I have a rope also attached I can pull tight and clip in for reverse lock ..but then noticed on the water I've never had an issue backing up and the motor coming out of the water unless you floor it from a stop. I just noticed the further out you have weight to the front or back the tippier it can get which the outlaw is hard to tip but still seems more stable with it pulled in closer and not hanging off the back. If it works it works and is a killer idea to lift it out of the water ..it would just save the hassle of having to adjust your steering system and could do without reverse lock unless you've felt an issue .I swear it'll back out just fine loose tho .
@@mutinyrider666 if that set up works for you, that’s awesome. That’s the beauty of being creative. Thanks for watching the video, and contributing your knowledge.
I ordered those pulleys and I'm assuming I need longer bolts to mount them? Once I got them in my hand I don't see how they mount to anything with what they came with.
I should’ve kept better tabs on my spending because you’re not the only one who has asked this. I will say it was pretty inexpensive, except for the battery $130 and trolling motor $120. It was probably close to $500. I have links in the video description that might give you a better idea. Hopefully most of them still work…
Hi. I have a 3 hp minn kota trolling motor but the tiller handle is loosening therefore won’t turn the prop accordingly. I hope that makes sense. I have replaced the screws which works temporarily but still eventually malfunctions. Any ideas?
This was an awesome video. I just got everything delivered. I do have one question. What size drill bit did you use to mount your clam cleat? Thanks in advanced!
You’re a god send. I have the same kayak and was wondering how I could get a trolling motor on it for yak tournament fishing and lo and behold the answer. Thanks for all the detail. Question though, I know you said you have run it 3 hours on that battery what’s the actual run time for the battery ? The tournaments I’ll be fishing are obviously longer than 3 hours lol.
Stability is good while sitting, even with 3 in seat risers I made. I wouldn’t stand on it, with the battery and trolling motor. I weigh 230 pounds too…
Just completed my mount looks sturdy ! Can’t wait to get it out in the water for a test run . Getting ready to order a battery . What are your thoughts on the one you have linked do you get a decent amount of run time ?? Had my eye on it from Amazon. I mostly fish small lakes calm water 30 LB thrust min Kota . Any info would be appreciated . Thanks !
great video! in the process of doing the same to mine. wondering if you hold your rod with your left or right hand? i assume you hold it with your left which leaves your right free hand to control the PWM?
I use left handed reels, but the pwm on the R side has been a non issue. I already have the fish finder on the L side, which would be made it too crowded if the pwm was with it. It has been a game changer for sure!
@ my own creativity. A rudder isn’t super complex. Look up some rudders that are for sale and mimic those. Then trace it on cardboard, up next your trolling motor to ensure a good fit.
Yes, but not to the point where it’s an issue. It’s mostly the motor that weighs it down. The battery isn’t very heavy. Here’s a short clip that gives you an idea of how the back looks in the water, fully rigged… ua-cam.com/users/shortsyG9Zcf2USMw?si=Ab3xJ1TDwsS7ErPH
Any particular reason you chose that particular PWM? Are you happy with it? It seems like a product that's not common enough to have a preferred brand and I noticed there were ones with the same specs much cheaper on amazon. Awesome video though, I wanted to motorize my kayak but wasn't going to spend $1,000 plus on a prefabbed one. Your design is cost effective and simple. Thanks in advance for making kayaking much more enjoyable
I chose this PWM because it has a fan to cool it down during hotter days. I haven’t had any problems with it yet(knock on wood). Thanks! Good luck on your build!
I really wish I had someone know what they were doing come helpe me with a setu up like this. I don't want to buy a tiller I would rader be able to go full speed reverse like this. I seen one with a tiller but I was like that is just going to get in -my way
That way of raising the motor out of the water is genius, also actually affordable. Ive seen setups that require you to buy and install expensive hydraulic things with extra wires. I like this much better and will definitely be trying it on mine
It’s very cheap and simple, and has held up beautifully for 1 year.
This is an amazing and super helpful video. Thank you for putting the links to everything in the discription, that was super helpful. You deserve more credit and more likes man.
Thanks! That means a lot. More is coming soon. Remember to subscribe!
Simple and very effective. You can use a “street” elbow for one of the pvc 90 elbows. Saves a step. Love it.
Thanks! What’s a street elbow?
@@LunkerHunter a street elbow is basically a female end on one end of the elbow and male end on the other. Will fit right into the second regular elbow. No need for the little stub of pipe to connect them.
@@InIt2EdwinIt thanks!
Very cool video man. Thanks for sharing your set up. I’m in the process of making a very similar set up on my kayak for trolling the high Sierra lakes near me for Kokanee and trout. Great job creating the video, you cover everything very thoroughly and I picked up a few tips for sure 🤙🏼
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your build.
Dude…I have the same kayak and I can’t thank you enough for this video and all of your links. Much appreciated!
No problem! Good luck with your build.
Seems like you lose a lot of real estate with the length of your mount. Still…great job
@@davelyons2601 You’re right. However, all I need behind me is my crate, which fits. Anything more is too much weight.
Just found this, great walk-through. I have the motor, battery, steering but lacked the PWM. Always nervous about taking apart a perfectly good motor and re-wiring (no electrical bkground). You made it look doable. Thanks.
I had no experience either! It wasn’t bad. Just use the “measure twice cut once” methodology! You’ll be fine
Man!!! I'm sure part of why I feel this way, is because I have this kayak (except that, here in Southern Cali, it's branded as the Lifetime Teton Pro - though "Yukon" sounds better), but this has by far been the best DIY modding I have seen on a kayak that wasn't exactly designed for all these things! Amazing, amazing job, and thank you for making this video. Much much respect for how cleanly you rigged this thing out! I think the finishing touches (assuming you haven't done so by now already), would be to paint the 2x4, the motor mount brackets, and the pvc pipe joints black!
@@Benihana716 thanks for watching! I haven’t painted anything. I kinda like the parts in their original colors. To each their own!
@@LunkerHunter100% to each their own! With all the craftsmanship you put into this, I shoulda known that you'd've painted it if you wanted to! Haha! Again, nice work, and thanks for sharing!
@@Benihana716 😂😂 thanks for supporting the channel! Remember to like & subscribe. More to come, soon 😎
@ 🤜🤛
Nice set up!! If you haven't yet, can I suggest you add a kill switch to the power? Don't want a run away kayak in case of an overboard situation.
I have thought about doing this multiple times. I know I need to. Thanks for the reminder!
There’s a control box for winches with a wireless remote that you can keep on your self and press stop button in an emergency. I was debating adding to my kyak just before the pwm. It’s basically a key fob with a stop button, and a small module box.
@@AnthonyG-ff9hd gotcha. That sounds easy to install.
This is the Best Looking DIY trolling motor mount I’ve seen yet! Thank you for the inspiration brother!
Thanks! Big things coming soon! Keep an eye out…
This is definitely one of the best DIY kayak builds I’ve seen without breaking the bank! I really like how you built the mount for the trolling motor. I have a good idea on how I’ll start my build! 23:18
Thanks! Good luck with your build.
Love the PWM box. I'm going to copy that. I got the smaller one but burned up two of them. I'm going to get the larger one like yours.
@@lorenzolujan7877 I haven’t burned it up yet after 1 year of using it.
Nicely done. I didn't have space for a transom adapter on my Folbot kayak, so built a custom 3D printed motor mount without any of the factory trolling motor transom parts. Originally had a pulley to raise the motor (similar to this video), but it tended to twist the motor to one side as it was raised. I then changed to a DC gearmotor winch to raise the motor, no twisting as it is raised. Then added a second DC gearmotor to tilt the motor completely out of the water. It required finding just the right gearmotor with a worm drive so it is self locking in any position of tilt. The nylon tilt gears were 3D printed.
That’s cool you printed your mount! Those are all great ideas. Wish I could see your set up!
That's a slick setup. Thanks! Gonna have a project for my Pelican Catch 100.
@@mackerelvelli thanks. Good luck!
I have experience with trolling motors on my canoe , you are looking pretty good with your set up . I see you are bumping a few logs , it’s a good idea to have a oh about 16” paracord doubled and wrapped around the shaft and motor tilt lock lever , go through the loop end and pull the lever against the shaft , wrap once or twice with a half hitch just in case you hit a bigger log the mo will hopefully tilt over it rather than break something , you can also tilt the motor up some if you happen to get to shallow , get you another battery and put up front , will help more with weight distribution and if you get carried away and run one down you have another to get back home on , good luck , great to see ya wearing your life vest
Thanks! This is great advice!
I like this. the steering is a great option. Also, nice simple mount that should be adaptable to almost any yak.
Thanks!
Nicely done sir! Thank you for the video, I've started getting into kayaking because of my son, who is obsessed with fishing and I just got a nice kayak but need to do a build like this. Thank you so much
@@Karito57 it’s the best! Good luck with your build
This video was INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you so much for sharing your designs and engineering skills!
@@gregalbee9725 thanks for watching the video!
Hey LunkerHunter: Enjoyed seeing your choices. I just this week finished building mine and saw we did some things alike and some obviously different. More than one way to "skin a cat" they say. I never thought of vertically lifting the motor shaft or strapping a rudder plate to it. Saw your left/right steering elsewhere earlier, but opted for true hands-free paracords to my foot braces. I chose a Joinfworld 6x6x4 Outdoor Electrical Box and used the existing controller taken out of the head of the MINN KOTA motor and ran extensions from it to the 4 motor wires in the shaft (plus battery wires) so all 6 using SAE pigtails like you did.
Sounds like an awesome ride! I hope it works well for ya!
What a fantastic job. I'll be doing this to my sportsman 106
Thx. Keeper up, dude.
Thanks! Good luck 👍🏻
Thanks, going to explore doing PWM with my Minn Kota soon. I know it takes a lot of time to make these videos and your product links are very useful
@@keithlohbc thanks for watching. Good luck with your PWM!
You have a very nice setup. It is super similar to the way mine is setup. The only thing I did different was put basically a stick steer mounted to my seat and I crossed the lines at the back so when you steer left it goes left and vice versa for right. Awesome job keep up the great work.
Thanks!
I absolutely love this set up! This is going to save me a lot of money in time compared to what my original plan was! Thank you so much for the great video! I’m looking forward to building a very similar set up for my vibe yellowfin 130 T
Thanks for watching! I hope your build goes well! Let me know if you have any questions.
Really creative solutions, good job. Might I just add that the PWM with the fan in a sealed box might cook itself.
Thanks for watching!
You have some very useful info here on making kayaking more convenient. About your steering. If you were to raise the point where those cables go from the ground up to the middle (maybe use a few pulleys behind the seat so the cables are sitting halfway between bottom and top of the motor travel) of the vertical travel of your trolling motor then you wouldn’t have to loosen it up to put the motor higher or lower.
Thanks! That’s great advice.
Nice that almost how i imagined doing everything but you made it even more simple
@@lllllsp1d3rlllll thanks for watching!
Very inspiring!!
I wonder if you could introduce some shock cord in the steering lines that would provide the stretched length necessary when lifting the motor out but otherwise stay taught when just steering? That way you wouldn't have to undo the steering line in order to lift the motor up.
@@InIt2EdwinIt not sure what shock cord it, but that sounds smart 🤣
Fantastic Job, thanks for making this informative and just enough detail. Will use most of this on my kayak mod. I would consider stainless for all fasteners and liquid tape for all electrical connections.
Thanks for the tips! Good luck with your build. Let me know if you have any questions.
Just picked up my fishing kayak. Your system looks assume. Going to follow it for my Kayak. Love the vertical lift for the trolling motor. Thanks
Thanks. Good luck!
Very nice DIY setup.👍 I've created a few different kayak setups over the years. And it's a very fun hobby to create kayak builds.🙂👍
Thanks. I totally agree!
Brilliant mount and overall setup.
Thanks!
Frickin brilliant work here. Thanks so much for posting this.
Thanks, bud!
Great video! I'm just getting into kayak fishing and will be using this video for upgrading my kayak!
Thanks! You’ll never look back! It’s the bees knees
Very well laid out and explained. Thank you!
@@Peyton-rv1qe thanks for watching!
Nice, thoughtful motor mods. I've been running my NK300 motor on 2 different kayaks, one using a homemade hand steering and one using pedal steering. Both have issues. Seriously looking into the fiberglass rod method of steering - I rejected that idea initially but might be the most effective - basically long distance tiller steering!
Thanks for watching! I LOVE my steering system. I hope that idea works for what you want!
@@LunkerHunter I tested my Slayer 13 with my repurposed graphite fishing rod tiller steering and the NK300 motor yesterday. Incredible! Great control, no hangups, smooth! No more cable issues! Thanks for your input!
@@michaell1665 awesome!
Amazing. Definitely going to copy this. That pulley to lift the motor up vs. tilt is genuis. thx.
It works amazing!
How long does that 50ah battery last you out on the water?
@@cbirdsong22 I fished the No Limit Big Bass Power Hour at Lake Fork recently, and it lasted me all day. It never died on me. 10/10 recommend!
@@LunkerHunter sweet... thanks for sharing!!! Much appreciated!
@@cbirdsong22 no problem!
Excellent engineering work!
Thank you!
Man thats a great set up! I will like to have one like that.
Thanks for watching! I made the video so you can do it yourself one day!
Awesome! Getting ready for my mod I like this idea 👍 is there a reason you made the bracket so long ? Maybe balance ? I have a different kayak would like to make mine shorter . Thanks !
More leverage for the weight of the motor. It takes force off the rivets where I connect the motor too, if that makes sense.
Thank you.
It gave me lots of ideas to improve my existing design.
Cheers.
No problem. Good luck!
Super slick set up man
@@Kyhoodhero thanks!
great dyi project! might consider using this as inspiration
Thanks for watching!
Nice set up I'm in the process of doin this thanks for the info
@@xxpricexx817price9 thanks for watching. Good luck!
nice job , i would how ever at the back cross the steering cables for correct steer so you don't have to think about it in an emergency situation, the other would be a one way valve for the venting of the box for fan and last but not lest a emergency pull off tug line so if by chance you get knocked off the yak when on it wont run away from you . but great job well done on the concept
All great tips! Thanks.
Excellent video, great job!
@@drumrjoey thanks for watching!
this was shared in fb for instruction so great job. I'm concerned with all mounting to the hull even with gusset reinforcement this is not impact resistant. Things happen faster than the telescoping can assist. I'd sacrafice reverse for a free swing. if you hit any unknown below the mass of the yak will be transferred to the hull mounting.
There is some give when you hit something. The mount is not attached to the kayak on the back, which allows for some movement. I’ll post a video soon demonstrating.
Great video…but I wished I’d seen it yesterday. I spent hours rigging up a lever steering system and then did the pulley raise system only to find out that you cannot do this while keeping your steering lines taught (as you mentioned).
I can do the lever steering if wanting to pull motor horizontal but that line has to be at top of motor and not thrilled with “clothesline” look since have crates and battery.
Unfortunately cannot do your steering system as I have a Nucanoe Unlimited with track seating. I wouldn’t be able to adjust my seats.
I hope you figure it out!
Really liked your setup.
Thanks!
looks amazing. only tiny thing, Might want to stain or treat that wood. but i love this set up and might try it out. all the Nice Kyakes are so much
Thanks man! Not a bad idea. I’ll have to do that when I replace it.
@LunkerHunter just showed my buddy and think we are going to try it out. I'll try and make a video and tag you for the cred. Sweet idea man. Much love from BC Canada 🇨🇦
@@Tyguy266 I can’t wait to see what y’all come up with!
Hey man if you cross the steering ropes in the back and run it the same way. Its will change the way u have to pull. So pull right go right. If that makes sense. Great work and video
Good point. I think it would run into the battery box or seat though. I’ll take a look though!
Very nice setup ! Ty for the info. Great video
Thanks for watching!
Hey how you doing that's nice what you show us I will like to know how you wiring the trolley model to the box control
@@carloshernandez-72574 ua-cam.com/video/nbROm4p2vZw/v-deo.htmlsi=TvCnQ2sJdoAe6s71
@@LunkerHunter yep I see it but question is only two wire running to the trolling motor how you control the speed?
@@carloshernandez-72574 the PWM box
question... do you know of a way to keep the battery monitor from the head since I am going to keep battery in drywell instead of box it would be awesome to still know how much battery I have left. Great video I am in the process of order parts now thank you!
@@farahsmile I’m not sure. Good luck with your build!
Great setup sir. One thing I don't understand about the PWM is the lack of venting. Even with a fan that air needs to exchange in order to cool the electronics. Does anyone have a solution to that? I haven't been able to resolve it. Respectivly thank you.
Nope. You could cut some vents under the box. Maybe then rain water wouldn’t get in. But I have run it in 100 deg with no issues yet. I agree with your statement though
Great video and great explanation. Do you ever have trouble with the PWM controller overheating? The fan is nice, but since it is in an enclosed, water sealed box, I'm not sure how much good it's actually doing since it can't pull cool air in from anywhere...
I have not had any issues yet with it overheating.
Awesome design
@@billywalter434 thanks, Billy! Appreciate you supporting the channel.
I've got a 5' caiman boat and it comes with a foot guided trolling motor system. My biggest problem is where to store a tackle box and keep fish if you get into a bunch of crappie. These things are really for mobile fishing and catch and release. It's hard to stay stationary very long.
Sounds like you need to bring a small cooler on board!
@@LunkerHunter I meant a 10’ caiman but it’s tight with gear.
@@corky5928 cool!
Thanks for this, will respond again with more information and ideas.
👍🏻👍🏻
where did you get the angle braces that your 2 x4 is screwed into , i’ve looked on home depot and lowe’s and can’t seem to find them on their websites
@@bobbywaltersinsurance9081 www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Heavy-Duty-Corner-Brace-2-Pack-15444/202034217
@@LunkerHunter Thank you so much for the link to order them from
@@bobbywaltersinsurance9081 no problem. Good luck with your build!
@@LunkerHunter I went to Home Depot yesterday and found the brace that’s just like yours I really appreciate you getting the info back to me so quick
@bobbywaltersinsurance9081 no problem. Happy you found it!
Awesome set up
@@Mrgarcia84 thanks!
Smart! You may need holes for control box?
Then it wouldn’t be water proof. Any suggestions how to do this, keeping it somewhat waterproof? I agree that the pwm needs batter air flow. I just hesitate sacrificing the water proof aspect.
Is it too hot in the summer?
@@Yan-rs3ni it wasn’t last summer. We’ll see this summer. If it’s an issue I’ll look into fixing it.
What wires do I need to extend the connection from the trolling motor to the pwm box? I am confused on how to get the yellow white and black wires to reach the PWM. Thanks for these videos btw! They are very helpful
Don’t worry about the yellow wire. Just red and black. Red and black goes from motor to pwm. Red and black from batter goes to pwm.
amzn.to/3OC420C
I used these for my pwm connectors.
Thank you!
@@LunkerHunter
@Dennis-zn9xk no problem
If you change it to where it tilts forward out of the water instead of straight up you can keep the steering tight .i just ziptied a Keychain ring right to the top of the motor pole and drilled a hole in the top of the yak just in front of the motor .ran it all the way up to betweej my legs where it pops out and a quick pull will raise it out of the water and forward into the rear deck.also makes it more stable than staying out on the back
I chose not to do it this way due to the increased torque it puts on the gear tracks when you tilt it. I also don’t that you have to keep the motor unlocked when doing it this way. There are way to do it with a locking/unlocking mechanism, but that was too many lines running through the yak. Either way should be functional, but I don’t understand how that way would make it more stable though. To me this makes everything less stable.
@LunkerHunter I have a rope also attached I can pull tight and clip in for reverse lock ..but then noticed on the water I've never had an issue backing up and the motor coming out of the water unless you floor it from a stop. I just noticed the further out you have weight to the front or back the tippier it can get which the outlaw is hard to tip but still seems more stable with it pulled in closer and not hanging off the back. If it works it works and is a killer idea to lift it out of the water ..it would just save the hassle of having to adjust your steering system and could do without reverse lock unless you've felt an issue .I swear it'll back out just fine loose tho .
@@mutinyrider666 if that set up works for you, that’s awesome. That’s the beauty of being creative. Thanks for watching the video, and contributing your knowledge.
Did you buy the motor like that, or did you build it? If so could you show us how you built it or where you got it from?
It’s a Minn Kota 30 lb thrust trolling motor. All I did to it was remove the head.
I have the same kayak! Great DIY video
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Nice video!! How long is the drive shaft, around 24”
About 30 in
I ordered those pulleys and I'm assuming I need longer bolts to mount them? Once I got them in my hand I don't see how they mount to anything with what they came with.
Yes. You just need to longer bolts.
Very nice. How much do you think you have into the whole build????
I should’ve kept better tabs on my spending because you’re not the only one who has asked this. I will say it was pretty inexpensive, except for the battery $130 and trolling motor $120. It was probably close to $500. I have links in the video description that might give you a better idea. Hopefully most of them still work…
Hi. I have a 3 hp minn kota trolling motor but the tiller handle is loosening therefore won’t turn the prop accordingly. I hope that makes sense. I have replaced the screws which works temporarily but still eventually malfunctions. Any ideas?
@@TheAmandafox89 have you removed the handle completely to check out if there’s something else that might be going on?
This was an awesome video. I just got everything delivered. I do have one question. What size drill bit did you use to mount your clam cleat? Thanks in advanced!
I actually can’t remember. The smaller the drill bit the better. Just start small. If you need to go bigger you can.
Very clean, nice job.
Thanks!
You’re a god send. I have the same kayak and was wondering how I could get a trolling motor on it for yak tournament fishing and lo and behold the answer. Thanks for all the detail. Question though, I know you said you have run it 3 hours on that battery what’s the actual run time for the battery ? The tournaments I’ll be fishing are obviously longer than 3 hours lol.
Glad to help! Check out my other videos. I have fished all day tournaments with the same 50 AH battery and it has lasted all day.
Hey. I have the same kayak. How does it handle with that setup? Stability and what not?
Stability is good while sitting, even with 3 in seat risers I made. I wouldn’t stand on it, with the battery and trolling motor. I weigh 230 pounds too…
There are pre molded slots to drill out for feet steering.
Thanks for the heads up, but hand steering is easier and works better with how I raise and lower my motor.
Nice set up.
I appreciate it!
Did you have to add wire to the trolling motor to reach the pwm box ?
Yes. I bought 12 gauge jumper cables and used that to add more length.
Looking for the part numbers for the female plug on dry box
@@DarrenAguero-m4p WMYCONGCONG 2 PCS SAE Power... www.amazon.com/dp/B081QXNPYP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Just completed my mount looks sturdy ! Can’t wait to get it out in the water for a test run . Getting ready to order a battery . What are your thoughts on the one you have linked do you get a decent amount of run time ?? Had my eye on it from Amazon. I mostly fish small lakes calm water 30 LB thrust min Kota . Any info would be appreciated . Thanks !
I love my battery. It has never died on me. It has lasted me 8+ hours, fishing a tournament. I made some long runs too.
Are the angles cut all out of the same 36in angle rod?
@@ricramirez110788 no. I bought 2 pieces
Very nice build I would use a lawnmower pull handle for the up and down, instead of 3/4 “ PVC ….. nice job …!KTW
Thanks!
That pwm is rated for 100amps, which makes it a bit spendy. Any thoughts on a smaller ( maybe 50A) unit?
Should be fine. The one I bought was only like $50. Totally worth it!
@@LunkerHunter thanks!
@@deathbyhobbies no problem.
great video! in the process of doing the same to mine. wondering if you hold your rod with your left or right hand? i assume you hold it with your left which leaves your right free hand to control the PWM?
I use left handed reels, but the pwm on the R side has been a non issue. I already have the fish finder on the L side, which would be made it too crowded if the pwm was with it. It has been a game changer for sure!
How did you secure your battery box to your kayak? Thanks..
It’s not secured. It sits in my crate, behind my seat. I know I need to secure it down…😂
What did you use to template the extra rudder?
Cardboard
But how did you know the right shape?
@ my own creativity. A rudder isn’t super complex. Look up some rudders that are for sale and mimic those. Then trace it on cardboard, up next your trolling motor to ensure a good fit.
How do you hold the motor when going in reverse
Reverse is the same as forward. The motor is locked into place. Not sure what you mean…
Bro weigh 230... How much over the recommended weight can you go over do you know
Depends on your comfort level 😂 50# maybe
What's the length of the Motor brace?
@@ricramirez110788 21 in
Nice work man. New subscriber
Thanks for the support!
Any recommendations on 36lb vs 55lb thrust for a kayak? Is it worth the extra weight and battery size? Thanks for the help.
What kayak are you running?
With the battery & box directly behind you, do you find your kayak rear heavy? Basically, any issues with weight distribution?
Yes, but not to the point where it’s an issue. It’s mostly the motor that weighs it down. The battery isn’t very heavy. Here’s a short clip that gives you an idea of how the back looks in the water, fully rigged…
ua-cam.com/users/shortsyG9Zcf2USMw?si=Ab3xJ1TDwsS7ErPH
This is a cool setup.
That’s a nice setup! Did you buy a kayak trolling motor or did you convert a regular trolling motor to look like that?
@@jeffreyarocha144 thanks! It’s a regular trolling motor without the head
How much was the actual cost in materials.
@@gilrodriguez5670 including trolling motor?
What's the ballpark cost (motor, hardware, battery)?
Motor + battery = $260
Hardware is maybe another $150
Any particular reason you chose that particular PWM? Are you happy with it? It seems like a product that's not common enough to have a preferred brand and I noticed there were ones with the same specs much cheaper on amazon. Awesome video though, I wanted to motorize my kayak but wasn't going to spend $1,000 plus on a prefabbed one. Your design is cost effective and simple. Thanks in advance for making kayaking much more enjoyable
I chose this PWM because it has a fan to cool it down during hotter days. I haven’t had any problems with it yet(knock on wood). Thanks! Good luck on your build!
@@LunkerHunter Thanks for the quick response!
@aceofspadesc991 no problem
Brilliant. Thanks
You’re welcome!
I really wish I had someone know what they were doing come helpe me with a setu up like this. I don't want to buy a tiller I would rader be able to go full speed reverse like this. I seen one with a tiller but I was like that is just going to get in -my way
@@FishingWithDummies78 I wish I could help you more! Let me know if you have any questions
I live in spring Hill Florida. Do you live close LOL
It's fishing with dummies lol 2 different accounts lol
@@AlThePal78 I live very far away from you 😂
very very nice job
Thank you!
Awesome video doing mine soon
Let me know if you have any questions! What kayak do you have?
@@LunkerHunter the same one
Good luck!
VERY NICE IDEAS !!!!
Thanks!
Awesome video
Thanks!