BMW N54 Low Compression E90 Engine: HEAD OFF?
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- After the last video, with the help of your guys it seemed the next step in diagnosing the compression issue was to remove the rocker cover and turbo to see if we can see what is causing the exhaust valve not to seal.
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Check out the full playlist on this car - bit.ly/2xc0EoA
Budget Build Parts List So Far
Turbos through eBay
RHD UK/Australia - ebay.to/2PKAgId
LHD USA/Europe - ebay.to/3hN9awQ
Turbos through Amazon
17T RHD / LHD Listing amzn.to/3efnoDQ
19T LHD amzn.to/2VZuV3i. (these are slightly bigger then mine, i wish i got these)
19T RHD amzn.to/2ZXg0Ib (these are slightly bigger then mine, i wish i got these)
2 Inch Inlets - ebay.to/33Qi9ZJ
Gecko Coilovers - ebay.to/3jrUIeI
Rocker Cover - amzn.to/33caOBd , ebay.to/2TIRQyZ
-10an Line & Fittings Kit - ebay.to/31GFsCB
Trans Cooler - ebay.to/3gOkbxy
Elder Coils - ebay.to/38Izq5R
Billet PCV Valve - ebay.to/3aS7NJg
China Spec Walbro 460 F90000267 (use at own risk, but that is whats in this car currently - update the second pump in the stage 3 setup, failed straight away) - amzn.to/33fqYZ4
LCI Tail Lights - ebay.to/34KQc3L
12mm Bolt On Spacers - ebay.to/2XRRKah
E92 Custom Floor Mats - ebay.to/2CkgEaX
Smoked Side Flashers - ebay.to/2XPyVEk
Clear Side Flashes - ebay.to/2PMkMUi
My port injection was secondhand. But i may switch to a PI manifold shortly.
#17Thybrids #teamN54 #n54turbo
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![How To Compression Test Your Engine [2023]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/v0gH8dFyWH8/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't you ever say again: "No usefull information from this video...". 😲 You, (the community) are diagnosing a problem and you are documenting your findings even if no issues can be found you are still diagnosing the problem. You are doing a great job at taking it step by step, so don't you ever say that again 😊. Oh yea, I forgot to mention, get a big breaker bar when you try to rock the crankshaft back and forth when it's under pressure 🙃, but apparently you found that out the hard way 🤣
Thanks dude very kind of you to say..... and holy shit i am glad that wasn't on camera. I was using a 12" breaker bar and rotated the crank while keeping my head near the motor to hear for the noise change as either intake or exhaust valve opened.... my attention was quickly drawn to the breaker bar which felt like if i let this go, i'm going to have a big problem.... It was one of those "it was at this moment he knew he fucked up". In my head i had visions of the breaker bar spinning around violently, not thinking that as soon as the intake valves open the pressure will be gone. I was worried for a second as i fought against the 80psi, then i disconnected air line and changed my underwear....
@@ZeroTo60Tube 😂
I'd put that borescope to use again, check the valves more closely, it could just be carbon. That mirror attachment for the scope might let you see the valve seats.
That did cross my mind. I gave that back to the guy i borrowed it from a little too quickly..... lol
Zero To 60 ouch, if you weren’t 800kms away I’d lend you mine.
I love it, rocker cover, earth bolts, all different terms.
Are just thoughs, before you disassembling the head. You could check for carbon in the valve or maybe the hydraulic tappet.
Good look!
Did check the tappet, not really sure what to do with the possibility of carbon being on the valve seat. Any ideas on that one?
Upgrades you should do on the motor your putting in . Are valve stem/seat. Cam ledge oring, and check the condition of the lifters, rear seal , front seal. If you have any questions just lmk. Everything is super simple you can do your self . I did mine with simple tools
I do hope you manage to fix both engines, but at least one should be fine, long process but don't give up hope & keep at it mate, will get there eventually. 👍
Hopefully get one running quickly, then work on making the other stronger, so we can have some fun with more boost down the track.
One step closer to a solving it.
Keep up the good work
I’m finding the comments as interesting as the videos. Great community here.👍
It still blows my mind how awesome people are in the comments sections. Its genuinely helpful.
Andrew, I feel like you're losing steam and a bit all over the place with this process.
Firstly, lets get the engine on a stand so we're not working on the floor.
Secondly, lets test the motor thats in your 335i. You can start it and let it run for the lifters and valve train to be pressurized with oil. Now we can eliminate that variable from the equation.
Thirdly, lets get a new gauge on that leak down tester so we know what we're looking at, and for us to be more consistent and precise.
Now that we have all those things completed, we can test and get a good bench mark to compare to the second motor out of the crashed 335i.
Got a lot going on off camera and time is always an issue, not losing steam on the project, just can't get everything done that needs to be done in a day it would seem. I did purchase an engine stand this morning, i was holding off to see if this one could be fixed without removing the head. I'm not going to bother with a new leak down tester (its too much money for a good one and all its going to do is give me a percentage of leak down). But i will test the e92 next to see where the leak is happening on that motor. Even with the cheap tester we can see what has failed on the e92 engine (rings/intake valve/exhaust valve/ headgasket).
@@ZeroTo60Tube I hear ya dude and np. Im just trying to give you some advice to try and help speed up the process of elimination and so you're not wearing yourself down by going in a circle.
You can make that cheap leak down tester work, you just need to swap out that gauge on the right for 10 bucks. But yes, please test all the cylinders on the e92 for us to get a good indication of whats going on and to try help you trouble shoot.
Fill exhaust port with some carby clean and let it soak in a bit, open the valve and give it a good hit with compressed air. I recon it’ll just be carbon build up on valve or a bit of crap stuck between seat
So far I'm still right about the valves. It's still identical to my 2 motors.
If you're nervous about pulling the head off don't be. I've never taken a motor apart in my life until dealing with these motors. As long as you have the timing tool it's super easy.
As far as the camledges. I've done them several times now. If you loosen and tighten them a 1/4 turn at a time starting from the center working your way out they will be fine.
When removing the head there's a hidden bolt on the front passenger side (for you) behind the timing chain holder. You have to remove the allen head plug out to find it. If you are looking at it you'll understand. It had me super mad for about a half hour just couldn't figure out why the head wasn't coming off.
Thanks so much for all the info. I know i shouldnt be nervous, but i also dont wanna be that guy that damages something i didnt know about....
@@ZeroTo60Tube I completely understand. I was terrified and didn't have anyone to help me except Bentley manual and youtube but now that I've done it I know how easy it really is. You'll get it.
I've got an extra motor in my garage I'm going to build. It'll be interesting to see who finishes first.....lol....
No ideas but this is fascinating content!
That turbo housing was probably 1000 degc when the crash happened, doesn’t take much to bend metal at those temps.
I’d say you also have a burnt valve on your e92 engine from the looks of the plug. Cylinder 4 must lean out more than the others due to inlet manifold design or something as it seems common.
🤞🏻 We're getting closer to answers
Two heads are better than none.
This was definitely good information - and look .. you even have a plan of attack - great vid!
This is getting interesting....I'm rooting for ya. Trying to think deeply.
Thanks man, it's a bit like an autopsy. Trying to work out what it is thats caused it.
The bent turbo might not be safe to run anymore i.e. internal damage or imbalance on top of the external damage. The other turbo prolly didn't get a love tap either, so you might consider replacing both to mitigate the risk of catastrophic damage. The upside is that now you have the perfect excuse to finally get a set of 19Ts and build the engine properly =)
I’d still get the inlet manifold flow tested as it could be the problem as it could be flowing a lot more air to that cylinder 4 compared to the other cylinders thus causing that cylinder to run lean causing a hotter exhaust valve thus wearing out the valve prematurely or the seat you have to find the cause of why no4 shits itself
Cylinder four location looks close to the impact zone and if the impact was severe enough to bend the turbo housing with all it’s engine block support then I’m thinking it’s a valve chip through shock transfer or valve seat deformation , just too much of a coincidence in regards to location , I am happy to be wrong 😎
Getting there 👍
The turbo is not bent that is the normal clearance mate! We have a 1000bhp forged single turbo 335i running a Garret gt 3582r with a tial exhaust housing much more reliable and efficient than the standard turbos and easier to work on
Well i only thought it was bent as you couldn't remove the vband. I've only done 3 down pipe installs on N54s, so maybe i missed something, but there was no way you could remove the vband from the rear turbo while the turbo was bolted on. That added with the fact the outlets were smashed up against the turbo from the crash made sense it was bent. Now more importantly more info on your single setup please!!! Are you RHD or LHD?
Zero To 60 right hand drive we are in the uk. we got the car with rod knock so stripped it and found a blocked oil strainer caused by a previous aux belt failure where the belt went through the front main seal and ended up in the sump. We stripped the engine and found a crack in the crank. We fitted a brand new crank, dp forged rods and pistons, king big end shells and some other performance mains I can’t remember which make. We sourced a company in America which made us head studs out of arp 2000 material, the head was skimmed and a commetic head gasket was manufactured to suit the skimming. The head internals are standard we haven’t done anything about the head or liners yet as a standard engine can easily take anything up to 1000 plus Bhp but sleeves and a head kit are plans for later. We are running a Walton’s motorsport exhaust manifold they make the only rhd manifold which has a 3.5 inch down pipe which clears the steering shaft also has a 50mm waste gate and screamer pipe. The car is currently on standard management and fueling we are currently gathering parts for more power jb4 management and port injection controller doc race inlet manifold 2000cc port injectors new fuel system e.g swirl pot with 2 pumps, and water meth injection. Then eventually chassis aero and drivetrain seen a company which make a carbon prop. Should easily make 4 digit hp when complete, Walton’s motorsport have a website and a channel on here one of their videos has the manifold 1065 bhp was made on a an engine dyno before we put it back in car so when I say we are running 1000 bhp it was at crank and not in car before we ran out of fuel
Would it be worth porting the head at the same time as the refresh?
Deffo get valve lash checked as well as get new valve stem oil seals and cam ledge seals. Could even put some trick cams in.
Scope creep or what. :)
Not worth porting or polishing unless your trying to squeeze every little bit of power on high numbers
Plenty of useful info, you know exactly what the problem is wrong bad valve. Most likely oil starvation. Maybe a tune and they kept the downpipes on too much backpressure. Should be repairable. Inspect your cam ledges and make sure you put the Teflon rings on the cams and get rid of the metal ones. But honestly if you have the head off you might as well do the bottom end, rods pistons and bearings. What's another $3k🤷🏻♂️
ohhh man you are right about doing the bottom end. I think at this point, just going to go the cheapest way to get the car running again, then build the other motor over a 6 month period.
Zero To 60 yeah then just do all the bearings, redesigned BMW crank hub (prevents slippage), new timing chain and cartridge). I tell folks you can go cheap but only so cheap. Then when you build a built motor this budget one can become a backup.🤷🏻♂️
would love to see whole head build like new, but i know that it aint "must" thing to do, or something like looking for better flow in general etc. This would be perfect opportunite for all that, budget is always thing, i know that
Totally agree with you. It wont happen with motor, but good chance it will on the other when that gets "fixed/built".
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah, was waiting answer liket that ;D. i know that this is more like "car back to road". btw, i have been waiting long time to someone do build like. stock dyno numbers, and after that, better flow every where (head, piping, cooler, turbos etc) and dyno after that, what kind of number you get with just doing those, and where it comes to boost, dyno sheet before and after. would be intresting with new factory turbo cars.
Noted..... hehe
I had a 335i that had a leaking exhaust valve and when I took it to the machine shop to have it rebuilt, they said it was due to the carbon buildup
Research the N53 head. Supposedly it flows much better than the N54 head. The port design on the N54 head appears to be a pretty big limitation at high flow rates. Even if you could do some work on the N54 head it would be a big help. The transition from the ports to the valve openings looks pretty terrible from the pictures I've seen. The divider between the valves looks like another area that could use some massaging.
You've got a spare :)
Unfortunately the N53's were never sold in Australia. Well can't seem to find any at the moment anyway.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I think they are Europe only. However, it appears the exhaust ports are different so your 17T's won't bolt up based on what I read since my comment above. Probably easier to work with the N54 head.
Hi, i dont think the guys will reach the limit of the standard N54 head.
I dont think anyone has. 😎
@@ben7020 It's pretty accepted that the N54 head is quite restrictive. As guys look to get more out of the engine head work or replacement with the N53 head is becoming more common.
Sure you can still make power with the stock N54 head, but boost will be higher and that works the turbo(s) harder and creates heat when the ambient air in compressed.
Here's one thread about head work and cams: bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/n54-head-work.5245/
600 WHP+ at less than 20 PSI is doable with the N53 head, for instance.
bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/hydra-performance-135-leichtbau-state-of-the-art-thread.4232/page-20#post-74986
Nice N54 head off
Good stuff.
Mine has a O2 fault so I've ordered new sensors. Now I'm stressing that its same kind of issues as this. Have to get mechanic to look when I take it in. 🤞
O2 faults are normal, dont sweat it yet if you are getting a code.
If o2 sensor faults come up it’s either the cat converters , injectors , faulty engine , because the o3 sensors pick up the incorrect gas readings coming from the engine , but Lamba sensor is a pre cat sensor will pick up an engine fault, o2 senso is the sensor after the cat or secondary sensor
@@kenrossaukrsa 2C27 precat O2
k karnis ok yeah it’s know as an Lamba sensor
Hey guys can I ask you for a favour, do you have the dimentions of the silicon inlets. I would like to make them myself not to order them from China/US and wait for them for 3months? The ones that are going into the turbos. Thank you in advance! Oh, great work, keep it up 💪🤜🤛
Hey Ian, i can't think of a way to accurately measure lengths and bend angles they are actually quite complex curves in them. The bends also rotate in some sections and the radius is different as well. You would be better off using your stock inlets as a template in front of you. My inlets came in 5 business days. You really should be able to get some of the china ones in a decent time.
Zero To 60 Thank you mate, appreciate it. Do you mind mentioning the seller from AliExpress?
I actually got mine through eBay. However the exact ones i bought are gone. The best place i can find right now for a reasonable delivery time is this listing on Ali www.aliexpress.com/item/4000627188671.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.84c372dcuTbUc8&algo_pvid=10dc69b8-8623-42b4-afcc-b17d1919483a&algo_expid=10dc69b8-8623-42b4-afcc-b17d1919483a-32&btsid=0bb0622c16004167155931357e244c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_.
You will have to pay an additional amount to upgrade to DHL shipping, but that should get to you in a reasonable time.
Zero To 60 US $109.00 | N54 turbo Inlet pipe 135i 135is E82 1M turbo inlet pipe 335i 335xi 335is E90 E91 E92 E93 535i 535xi E60 Z4 E89 intake pipe 07-10
a.aliexpress.com/_mqA3HPd . Thank you for the link, what do you think about this one?
the freight was much more expensive from memory. Keep in mind you will need to upgrade frieght to get either in a reasonable time.
Hey mate I'm interested in those turbos since they're bent and buggered. Want them to fab up on an M54 in an E46 before buying 19T's. Thanks mate.
thats a really interesting concept, what all would you have to do to make the n54 turbos fit on the m54?
@@johnpaulc1629 Well that's what I'm trying to figure out lol. Need the turbos first.
i got some if you want. PM me
@@pabloalfaro2595 Where are you located and what should I contact you on
Ben Perkins heres my listing. u can contact me here offerup.co/emUHXNptV9
Just curious do you have a special set of tools to work on the engine and when you remove. I notice they have loads of torx bolts.
I have a couple of tool sets that did come with both torx bits and etorx seckets. Thats gets you out of trouble with most stuff on an N54.
Andrew, why don't you just swap the heads over?
Then slowly fix the bad head and bad block at your leisure!
I dont know why i didnt think of that yesterday..... I will pump some air in to cylinder 4 on the e92 motor today and see if we can workout if it is definitely bottom or top end.
Nice vid, I'm keen to see how much carbon build up is on the intake side.
I ended up taking the other turbo of then got on to editing this. But i will get that intake off and have a bit of a sort out tomorrow. I'll post a pic to the members area tomorrow showing the intake carbon build up.
keep the same turbos. build the motor?
Basically try and run my 17t on what ever motor i can piece together. Then build something up from there.
I enjoy watching your channel-- keep up the good work. You said you hadn't heard of N54s with burnt valves so I thought I would send you a heads up on this guy's experience with a burnt valve. His blog has lots of other useful info.
bmw135iblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/25/n54-engine-detonation-kill-story-and-rebuild/
Cracked ringland 100%... don't start the vid so down man :)
Well its definitely not ringland its the exhaust valve on the e90 motor. Im thinking its ringland on the e92 engine though. A few people have said i was down, i am definitely a bit busy.... but not down as much as i dont need to admit this i was very bloated yesterday..... to the point where i felt ill.... that must have played out in my facial expressions and energy levels on camera. lol
@@ZeroTo60Tube interesting mate about the engine I guessed wrong for this one then. Still got one more guess and guess the ring land.
Hope you're feeling better mate. Nothing a big hot curry won't sort out.
Open her up and fix her up and send it well done...
Mate since you're going to end up rebuilding its worth considering some reliability upgrades, there are a number of revisions on these engines and it may be worth looking into changing those parts, 'Vehicular DIY' seems to know a lot about these little details... ua-cam.com/video/7-1LJkLcJNQ/v-deo.html
Make sure the engine in the car hasn’t got the same valve issue......
Yeah I really need to do that next.
🍿🍿👍👀
First
Second
I've sent you a facebook message (same name) if you'd like to sell the bent turbo(s).
I'll keep them for now. The rear one is the bent one, front is sweet. I do still have the stock turbos that came off my e92, they have wastegate rattle and the shafts don't feel as fresh as these from the e90. When time allows i will try and make a good set from what i have at the moment. Swapping one CHRA and doing one wastegate rattle fix, should net me a good condition set. I will have some throw away ones eventually tho. That said i am hesitant to sell any parts for an N54, i feel like i dont have enough spares as it is... lol
@@ZeroTo60Tube Haha that's fair. Well when you do make your good set I'm definitely interested in the bad set with all the worst parts. You could even keep the whole turbine/compressor bearing assembly I literally just need housings/manifolds for clearance reasons. I'm a parts hoarder too don't worry lol.
Zero To 60 just make sure you have a good paint pen/marker and put a line on the turbine shaft, nut and compressor wheel before you loosen that 7mm turbo nut off. I forgot to mark the compressor wheel on one of my turbos so it’s no longer going to be balanced. Luckily I had two pairs of turbos so my set is solid and balanced.