Well you pretty close to be fair. Very similar symptoms for both issues. I will take the pan off and have a look at the bottom end, however the e90 motor will be getting the minimum to get it running again. All the love and upgrades will be saves for the e92 motor.
While the head is apart, I would "lap" the valves and replace the seals and also do the wallnut blast. Really looking forward to the re-assembly video.
I used Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner instead of walnut blasting, unbelievably good stuff that would clean them up it just dissolves the carbon away. My compression increased and evened out cylinder balance on inpa to next nothing. I’m N53 30B normally aspirated 300bhp 250 nm ATB LSD returning 47mpg at 80mph and 23mpg when nailing it to death plenty quick enough for fun ! Keep on keeping on my friend EPIC CONTENT AS USUAL ;)
In nutshell I think N54 is turbo N52 (e46) Our’s were last generation,most powerful Normally Aspirated straight 6 ,and then Turbocharged to become S55 M2/3/4 platform . I would spray bottle Liqui Moly in that engine before you strip it,imagine that for content if when you strip it down it has cleaned all valve seats,or even crazier if it restored compression I’m confident it would have cured first one,when I used it your findings now confirm and explain why mine went up never put two together till now ! Go on just do it ! Keep up the excellent work my Friends ;)
Hi I have a problem on my N54 turbos went bad and eated lot of oil now I have missfore without code. And low compression on piston n.1 do you think it can be carbon ?
I told you in previously that it was carbon billed up. You can clean then using CRC valave carbon cleaner it the best. I use it instead of walnut blasting. I highly recommend it. It also help cleaning the turbos as some of the fluids pass though the system.
Yeap! I'm happy for you that it was only carbon. I did my intake valves clean up with some 'seafoam'' and a combo of brass and steel brush (little 20$ kit like the gun brushes cleaner). Brushes have insert to put on a drill so it's very fast to clean it up if you let the product ''soak'' the carbon. I don't really know about lapping compound but I'm pretty sure you can clean all your valves and seats with the same method. Have a good one ;)
Yay!!!! Makes me happy. Let's do a closed deck block build lol. The fact that those cylinders hold as much power as they do without cracking is ridiculous.
clean and decarbon the head, soak the exposed portion of the valves to clean them thoroughly (avoid the sliding section of the stem as not to degrade their surface finish) use lapping compound to create a good sealing surface and check with dychem to ensure you have a good uniform seat contact. at this point you could reassemble, or you could polish the valve faces if you so desired. clean the chamber thoroughly on the cylinder head and remove and clean any ledge at the top of the cylinders, then decarbon and clean the piston crowns, do so at TDC and seal off the edges with an oring that fits snugly between the piston and cylinder wall so nothing gets down between them while cleaning. then you should have a solid engine providing cylinder and ring wear is not too bad!
Get an air-oil separator tank for the intake, as well as deleting the egr from the system... Since u have engine out already... Thats help alot reducing carbon buildup in the intake side...
Good work guys! Hey I’m not really a bmw guy so I’m not in the know. Regards all the deposits going back through the inlet manifold through the head, can you run catch cans? Deleted the factory pcv valve if there have one? Any crank case pressure can vent through the catch can and not recycle back through the engine?
Dude you are on the money. That pretty much exactly what we do. I have the catch can and a revised PCV valve on my e92. I guess who ever owned this e90 wasnt aware of the carbon built up issues.
I should buy i will try and just get this back together as quickly as possible and as cheap as possible. We'll spend the time and money making the e92 engine as good as it can be.
Hey!! I had this same problem, You should get water methanol injection! After 5 years having it, Theres no dirty intake ports? And the cars faster!!! Also I have fitted a better oil catch can.
8:52 From what I see from the video the valve and seat are not that bad. I think that you can reseat the valves without going to a machine shop. You can use some course then a fine abrasive paste for valve grinding with a drill on low settings. I've done this on my E39's M52 head. The valves on cylinder 4 and 6 were not sealing properly and I used this method. It took some thime and I had to redo it a couple of times, but in the end they sealed perfectly. Another thing you could do since you have the head off, if you have the time you can polish the ports and valves. Personally I didn't do it on my engine(because I'm kinda lazy :D) but It would definitely help reduce carbon buildup in the future.
Sweet, pretty easy rebuild 😊 I’d just get some lapping paste n do all of them to be honest! I’d possibly change the bottom end shells as well! You’ll be up n running in no time! More N54 content 👍🏻
Im thinking about doing all the valves.... although the rest are sealing fine at this point in time, according to comp test. I know i should to the rod bearings, but i think im just going to save it for the e92 engine build. Just want to get this back in the car and running as cheaply as possible.
@Zero To 60 yeah mate, that sounds like a plan! You’ll be up n driving in no time! Not sure if u should lightly have the head skimmed or not even so head gasket hadn’t gone, might be worth doing 🤷🏼♂️not entirely sure why No.4 rod bearings tend to wear the most on these engines, the engine looked clean though when u took it apart so maintenance looked as though it had been done!
Such a shame you had to pull the whole head off to find it was just carbon. These things happen but hey-great chance to refresh the top and bottom end. Thanks for making this
Ahhhh, the alternative was throwing the motor in and hoping for the best. The worst part is, i am just going to assemble this on the cheap. I'll save the refresh for the e92 engine. Maybe add some stronger bits in with e92 motor build.
now knowing what was wrong would a fuel system cleaner been worth trying and do you think it could have fixed problem? For example the Nulon petrol fuel system clean or something similar to it.
It wouldn't unfortunately. One of the down sides of direct injection, the fuel is only entered straight in to the combustion chamber. So you will still get the massive build up on the inlet valves due to the pcv system. A fuel cleaner may reduce carbon in the combustion chamber..... maybe (that is a huge maybe) but the reality is you still get all the dirty oily air coming from the crankcase anyway.
you have gone this far take the other cam out and get a complete valve job done then the seats and valves will be clean and sealed and face the head surfaced put a new set of valve stem rubbers on as well and you should be all good the you can do it all over again on the e92 engine lol it would be a shame if you only did the one set of valves and down the track a different cylinder started leaking can't wait to see more content on your e92 keep up the great content
Not on this engine. Simply can't quite afford the build i'd want to do right now. But i will with the e92 motor. Just want to get the car running again, then work on building a decent motor for real power down the track.
Hand lapping with a little compound should let you take your time and not abrade too aggressively... it'll work perfectly first time, if you order the spare ones too so you have to go through the faff of returning them. Don't order the spares and it'll probably set fire or something :D
I wont with the e90 engine, just want to get the car back on the road as quickly as possible.However will go a bit more deeply in to the e92 engine build.
Give them a lap and make sure that you still have a seat present and there is no distortion on the seat or the valve. If the seat isn't clean and crisp you may have a tuliped or otherwise softened seat. When you next tune, watch the port or pre turbine temperatures.
This seems pretty common for direct injection engines that are not looked after. Do you guys use stuff like an upper engine cleaner like they use on Subaru's?
Zero To 60 awesome, thanks for the quick response! Your channel has become my favorite for sure! I’m sure you’ve seen it but the channel “vehicular diy” just did a series on an N54 rebuild! It’s a really informative channel and that series is very relevant to what you’re dealing with. It would also be cool to see you do a light porting on the head while you’ve got it off! Take a dremel and clean the casting marks up and smooth out any jagged edges
I’m following along this video trying to change my head gasket but I’m stuck at how to get the barcodes facing up to use the camshaft locking tool. I don’t know how to rotate it, can anyone tell me how to?
On your original engine (assuming its the same thing) I'd have a try at undoing spark plug, turn engine until exhaust valves open, spray crc decarb with the long straw. (The straw shoots 4 90 deg jets) your bound to soak the exhaust valve and seat. Let it soak overnight. Worth a shot for 20 bucks and 1 hour. 👍 😎
As long as you have the head off it’s the perfect time to pop out the valves, wire wheel the head and valves, walnut blast the intake side, and finish with a valve lapping. She’ll be good as new!
Wow if that's all it is then as everyone else has said you'll probably get away with just lapping the valves, now I'm interesting to know what the state of the other engine is...
Don't know if the carbon came from the intake or a byproduct of a leaky injector. I think they were pretty old on this motor if I remember. In retrospect it might have been good to try one of the carbon cleaning products on the market like CRC valve cleaner, but hindsight is 20/20. Looking forward to the tear down of the E92 engine. I suspect a broken ring land, but I am hardly a professional. It will be interesting to see how the inside of that engine looks versus the E90 engine. Do you plan on stabilizing the cylinders with a closed deck kit in the E92 built motor? I think you are at the power levels with the 17T turbos where ovaling the cylinders starts to become a risk long term. Especially if you want to continue to push it.
Well cleaning the intake valves and intake ports wont help the exhaust valves seal..... But if the previous owner was up on maintenance on this e90 it probably never would have happened. There is minimal carbon on the pistons nothing excessive really although i may give them a clean. But the intake valves are caked...... definitely needed doing many many kilometres ago.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah, I don't mean the ports. I mean pool the product in the throat on top of the valve to see if it would have eaten the carbon between the seats and the valves. For the cost of a can over the time spent tearing the engine apart, buying some new gaskets/seals and assembly it may have been worth it. But like I said you didn't know the problem before it was apart. Hindsight is 20/20.
You've got a lot of wet valves, are your valve stem seals and valve guides ok? Not leaking any oil into the cylinders causing it to smoke at all? Does the car have blocked cats at all? If I was you I'd be replacing all stem seals and check for valve play make sure valve guides dont need replacing... I literally have this exact problem in mine right now (valve stem seal) and its started smoking like a mofo in cylinder 6 but in saying that my symptoms are different to yours I have a fouled plug in that cylinder and idle has gone to shit.... thanks for this video though as it's a good way for me to work out what bolts need to be undone and what not 👌😁
Unfortunately only got to run this engine for like 10 seconds as it was from crashed parts car. It sounded mint, but didnt run for long enough to see any smoke from anywhere. The pistons in this e90 are pretty normal (apparently) in regards to carbon build up. Doesn't appear to be any oil in there, but can't say for sure. Plug wasnt that dirty. Yours sounds more like my e92 engine except cyl 4 is down to 100psi on a comp test. The e92 has a very slight rough idle and oil on the plug. Not smoking, well not noticeable. But i picked up on the rough idle straight away. My suspicion on the e92 is bent rod and broken ringland. Once i get the e90 engine to a useable state i will pull the motor from the e92 and find out exactly whats going on. Have you done a comp test on yours yet?
Reason i ask about the comp test, i have had a n62 with with leaking valve stem seals and they never cause a rough idle. Just a flat out smoke machine if you leave them idling for 5 mins.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah did a dodge comp test on the injured cylinder 6 without opening the throttle body and came up with 100psi. Cylinder 1 came up with 125psi. Didn't bother doing the rest coz the comp tester fitting got stuck in the plug hole so I walked away from it lol and ended up using loctite to get the fitting out but had to drive the car 1000km the next day as had family emergency. I dont think I've got a bent rod coz the car drove fine for 1000km smoking here and there, light throttle crusing the smoke clears up(not 100%, maybe 85% gone) but when you get off it after overtaking for example a good little puff comes out. The plug is pretty bad. If I could put a pic in here to show you I would. Iridium plug too so not cheap to replace not that the price worries me....
While that is a very wise thing to do, i want to just get this e90 motor in my e92 and get driving again. Then build the e92 motor stronger and replace service things like timing chain, crank hub, etc. This e90 motor will be done on the cheap.... for now.
@@ZeroTo60Tube You have that engine open now and i know you missing the car i drive my 335i daily with a smile on my face everyday i know that you missing the car so much i would have a good engine in the car then problems on the road or testing
Mech/chemical cleaning, new valve stem seals, new headgasket and chuck it back in. Do a bit of lapping to tidy it up after cleaning. Team Poverty racing can get anything going :D
Just do a valve lapping job, remove all the valves, clean all the head ports intake and exhaust, remove all the carbon, lap the valves, replace the valve seals, they are chep even the oem ones and easy to change. And after all that you have almost "brand new" head. Do the job and learn more do not take to machine shop for that.
Good job on presumably finding the culprit of the low compression! BUT, perhaps it's just me but I find it rather interesting that such a small amount of carbon buildup can almost completly negate the pressure buildup by the piston. I would re-install the valve, remove the intake cam, flip the head upside down and pour gasoline in all 6 valve cavities and fill them approx flush with the head. Then monitor how much gasoline seaps through the not properly seating valves. If gasoline isn't making it's way through the in- or exhaust valves then perhaps it would seap through the injector or spark plug. The other thing that worries me, is the carbon buildup on the piston itself on cylinder 4. It's makes me wonder if the injector on cylinder 4 was clogged/bad/at the end of it's life. Excuse me for my spectisim, but since you allready removed the head, I would diagnose the problem as much as I can, so that you can find the cause. Since you are planning to mix and match engine parts in order to build a new "healthy" engine, I wouldn't leave nothing to chance :D BUT, I'm also just an amateur car-enthousiast/mechanic so perhaps take my advice with a grain of salt :-) Keep it up!
Something i never ended up doing on camera, but last week i filled the exhaust port with brake cleaner. Suspecting possible carbon build up. I let it soak for a few seconds, then compressed the cylinder the leak down tester. I could see a point on the valve where the air was rushing up through the brake cleaner. I actually messed with it for a good hour, trying more brake cleaner and cracking the valve open ever so slightly, then opening the valve and trying to clean it with the head on....... Nothing seems to make a difference. I was half expecting a pin hole or burnt valve today. But it looks like its just carbon. Keep in mind this cylinder was still making the best part of 150psi. Also with the leak down tester air would only start to rush out, when you i got to about 30 psi. I do need to work out a better way to check the valve is seated properly if i do just lap it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Ooh, ok. Wasn't aware that you took a somewhat "similar" approach with the brake cleaner. You can only cram so much into one video :D I'm really flabbergasted that such a small amount of carbon can be so stubborn and devestating that you actually need to crack the head in order to get it sorted. From now on I would consider carbon my nemisis =D
You should show how you remove the valve spring. Don't make sense to show how yo do the valve if you don't know how to remove them...especially if you don't have the right tools
A couple of frames 7:22 mark the valve looks bent, but it's hard to tell. I would replace the valves on that cylinder. Actually I've seen worse on the intake side. I'm wondering if the injectors caused a lean condition. You will need to look way closer for any cracks. Let the machine shop do a head job, replace #4 valves
Spinning the valve in drill, it "appears" perfect, but with the carbon on it, it is hard to tell and it take bugger all to be an issue. Have got a new valve on the way, just in case.
Zero To 60 because of all the carbon it's worth letting the machine shop do the full job. ESPECIALLY if this is a high hp build. Do the bearings, spin the bottom end, do a timing chain and cartridge too, these aren't that big $$ part jobs. It will be a perfect someday backup engine once a strengthened N54 can be built.
That chunk of carbon may have been knocked loose from the impact of the accident. The car definitely took a hard hit. That valve seat should clean up nicely with some lapping compound.
Should be able to just clean and relap them. Ide prob just send the head into Caloundra engine centre and get it hot tanked and checked. Ide also drop the sump off and inspect bearings whilst you that deep
Now i know i should send this to a machine shop... i know this... but i also want to learn how to fix this sort of problem. We'll see how i go and what i can learn from reading. Will definitely be pulling the sump off. However will probably leave the bearings in this engine for now. Want to save every dollar i can for the other build, which i will do with the intension of making it stronger.
Zero To 60 yep know the feeling, mine I expected to replace some big ends, now it’s escalating to a full rebuild. My wallet and credit card are not impressed
Zero To 60 my one looks like it’s too big it’s not sitting on the turbo housing even if I tighten it you have any way you can reach out to me I need some help
@@romezmiller4701 Do you definitely have the 17t turbos with 2 inch inlets? There are china turbos out there with only 1.75 inch inlets. Have you measure your turbo inlet housing?
Zeroyon is correct. All direct injected engines have the same problem. Fuel is sprayed directly in to the combustion chamber and never passes the valves or intake port. On port injected cars the fuel will clean off the valves as it hits them on the way in to the cylinder. It comes from the PCV system which vents the crank case fumes in back in to the intake system. So basically you get the oil vapour coming back through the intake then drying or backing on to the valves.
But....intake valves should be clean....From air they cant't be so dirty.It seems that valves are not closed 100%,so few bits of carbon passes by during the combustion?Hm?
As i stated above "So basically you get the oil vapour coming back through the intake then drying or backing on to the valves." You might need to do some research on PCV systems so you understand.
Pain in the ass, sometimes the cameras work around the flicker and other times they can't fix it. Sorry man.If we run with it off, the image gets really grainy as there is bugger all light in the shed.
Time to clean up all the carbon and put new valve seals while you have the head off, have the head hot tanked and cleaned, so your going to need a head gasket set good luck.
I do actually already have a walnut blasting setup. So i will do the intake port and valves. Need to work out the best way to sort out the exhaust valves.
It means i wont have to get it re-bored for the forged build :P Considering how bad the comp was on the e92 i am expecting worse. But we will see soon.
Zero To 60 I did say it was more than likely carbon, one thing I hate about direct injection is not having the fuel to keep the intake valves clean. Been toying with getting an e90 myself but reliability has always been my concern as I’m hard on track cars.
It could be, but whatever is wrong with the e92 is much worse. Looking forward to getting to that soon. But while the e90 engine was in the shed, i wanted to get it fixed and considering it ran smooth and was only 30-40psi down on that one cylinder, i was hoping it was somehting simple. Im hoping to get this engine all sweet and then get it in the e92 nice and quickly, then take my time building the e92 engine over a 6-12 month period and do everything properly.
Zero To 60 it’s easy and cheap just remember to use the coarse paste first then the fine then clean after each paste then last of all use abit off spit and a quick lap you’ll see the valve start to clean up and Lapp in almost instantaneously but do wipe clean after each Lapp to see all contact patch in the seat and valve
@@ZeroTo60Tube I still think so. If you're down compression because the valve isn't seated all the way how much compression will you be down if a valve is damaged? Both of mine misfired bad and threw cylinder 4 misfire codes. All because of slightly damaged valves.
Bout to take mines off this week. Not looking forward to it. Who has sewn a head gasket leak on the outside just oil no pressure loss or white milk zero sytoms just leaking oil. Got to take the whole head off. And no it's not the vavle cover no it's no oil filter housing replace every seal gasket o ring in this car. Only area we see head gasket leaking oil right in the front of car
Just rebuild it. The time and money saved is not worth skipping at this point. The horsepower involved is a big ask of a standard engine anyway. If I were you, I'd keep your engine, take the head off and rebuild it, and mod this one at your leisure. No point swapping an engine if it's unnesessary .
Sorry I have to disagree. When you lap the valves you ruin the extremely precise factory valve seat cut job. The only reason to lap a valve is if you were to replace that valve. You could lap the valves and the engine would still run. but they make extremely precise cuts, down to tenths of a degree at multiple different angles, for heat transfer from the valve to the head and airflow. and your change that when you lap them. Just what I've learned
Definitely doing a forged build. But it will (if all goes to plan) be the e92 motor, not the e90 motor. I need to save up a bit for the proper build. Which is why i'm trying to do this one as cheaply as possible. Should be an interesting 6-12 months (hopefully no more unplanned blowups, just planned ones when send the 17ts on a dyno :P)
@@ZeroTo60Tube haha that's it mate. Always a planned blow up. I'm just fitting my big boost 3.4 to my n55 2 series now. I'm planning a blow up soon then forging it after haha. It's not a real blow up if its planned....it doesnt count 🤣🤷♂️
@@ZeroTo60Tube lazy forged build aka drop in china pistons? totally in theme with the build haha actually, now that i check... you can get rods for under $500 a set from china. pistons are a bit under $700usd lol
@@flinchy952 I've been searching can only find china versions of the stock pistons which aren't forged. Have you got a link to the ones you found for 700usd?
Just for curiositys sake i am going to try that and see what sort of results it has on the carbon. While the heads off, none can end up in the cylinder, so good time to experiment.
Only on Thursday and Sunday nights. Their hourly rate is too high for other times.... Those vids are on our pornhub channel. Zero To 60 seconds...... :|
Good news for sure. Don't forget those stretch bolts holding the cam sprockets are one time use. www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-collar-screw-m10x1x94-11367524954#fitment if you haven't ordered yet
Head refresh hot bath relap the valves new stem seals and throw it back together Have you ever heard the band the streets and there famous song blinded by the lights give it listen this how I felt all the way through the video 🤣🤣
I hear you dude. Caused by wiping the go pro with a slightly dirty cloth, which left a slight smear on the lens (something you can't really see unless you look at a reflection in the lens). I noticed after a couple of takes.... Oh and that light can eat a dick. The go pro works out the flicker and fixes it sometimes then other times it doesn't..... We've spent nearly 10 grand on camera/audio and lighting gear since we started in 2016, its painful to say the least. Starting to realise why a proper studio setup is 100k+
@@ZeroTo60Tube 10k that commitment i thought spending 200 on phone gimble set up and 1.5k on drone was over priced but the money has to be spent to get the shots we want. Hope this engine goes back together soon and she fixed good luck with it
@@movementonthetyne2785 Ahh man its painful. In the early days we used to think you needed the gear to make the content. Ever heard the saying all the gear and no idea haha. We try and keep it simple nower days. Reasonable audio, minimal shakey cam and just focus on what we filming, not the filming its self. However occasionally we get caught out with a cock up where the flickering is crazy. I may sell those lights on. They are great in person, just something in them the cameras struggle with them at sometimes.
Sorry dude. Sometimes the camera sorts the flicker and sometimes it struggles. We can't actually see the flicker. Camera is all set to our power frequency it just struggles with that light. If i hold the camera still for a few seconds it syncs with the LEDs and its sweet, but sometimes, it does what you see in this vid.
Now would be a good time to check those big end bearings as well , glad I was wrong about the chipped valve 👍
Well you pretty close to be fair. Very similar symptoms for both issues. I will take the pan off and have a look at the bottom end, however the e90 motor will be getting the minimum to get it running again. All the love and upgrades will be saves for the e92 motor.
While the head is apart, I would "lap" the valves and replace the seals and also do the wallnut blast. Really looking forward to the re-assembly video.
I used Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner instead of walnut blasting, unbelievably good stuff that would clean them up it just dissolves the carbon away. My compression increased and evened out cylinder balance on inpa to next nothing. I’m N53 30B normally aspirated 300bhp 250 nm ATB LSD returning 47mpg at 80mph and 23mpg when nailing it to death plenty quick enough for fun ! Keep on keeping on my friend EPIC CONTENT AS USUAL ;)
I know your MPG is insane.... but only recently properly looked in to how similar the n53 and n54 are. Shame we dont get them here in Australia.
In nutshell I think N54 is turbo N52 (e46) Our’s were last generation,most powerful Normally Aspirated straight 6 ,and then Turbocharged to become S55 M2/3/4 platform . I would spray bottle Liqui Moly in that engine before you strip it,imagine that for content if when you strip it down it has cleaned all valve seats,or even crazier if it restored compression I’m confident it would have cured first one,when I used it your findings now confirm and explain why mine went up never put two together till now ! Go on just do it ! Keep up the excellent work my Friends ;)
Hi I have a problem on my N54 turbos went bad and eated lot of oil now I have missfore without code. And low compression on piston n.1 do you think it can be carbon ?
Glad you got there. Once it's seating well and everything goes back together I'd get the injectors cleaned.
Im so freaking happy you will have the car running in top notch again (and a proper backup in time)
Excellent idea on the walnut blast while is off!
I told you in previously that it was carbon billed up.
You can clean then using CRC valave carbon cleaner it the best. I use it instead of walnut blasting. I highly recommend it. It also help cleaning the turbos as some of the fluids pass though the system.
That's a relief, props to your mate for coming up help too 👍🏻
Yeap! I'm happy for you that it was only carbon. I did my intake valves clean up with some 'seafoam'' and a combo of brass and steel brush (little 20$ kit like the gun brushes cleaner). Brushes have insert to put on a drill so it's very fast to clean it up if you let the product ''soak'' the carbon. I don't really know about lapping compound but I'm pretty sure you can clean all your valves and seats with the same method. Have a good one ;)
I do have a walnut blaster.... however i might do some playing with the chemical option since i have the head in a nice easy place to work on.
What a relief. Glad it was just carbon.
Keep up the good work.
Sounds like we get to see a Engine build now! Team N54! 🤘🏻
Could try a 'seafoam' experiment on the running engine, Americans love that stuff.
And seriously a good highway run can do wonders too...
Macht Schnell project farm done a good video on all these snake oils, worth a watch!
Great news! Can't wait to see the e92 back in action
Yay!!!! Makes me happy. Let's do a closed deck block build lol. The fact that those cylinders hold as much power as they do without cracking is ridiculous.
Well thats what i am thinking for the e92 engine...... maybe.
Very interesting. Good to know it's not mechanic. Would love to know if there was a way to clean without disassembling?
clean and decarbon the head, soak the exposed portion of the valves to clean them thoroughly (avoid the sliding section of the stem as not to degrade their surface finish) use lapping compound to create a good sealing surface and check with dychem to ensure you have a good uniform seat contact. at this point you could reassemble, or you could polish the valve faces if you so desired. clean the chamber thoroughly on the cylinder head and remove and clean any ledge at the top of the cylinders, then decarbon and clean the piston crowns, do so at TDC and seal off the edges with an oring that fits snugly between the piston and cylinder wall so nothing gets down between them while cleaning. then you should have a solid engine providing cylinder and ring wear is not too bad!
Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. Any tips on what to clean the top of the pistons with?
Great news 😬 can't wait to see team N54 back in action!
Get an air-oil separator tank for the intake, as well as deleting the egr from the system...
Since u have engine out already... Thats help alot reducing carbon buildup in the intake side...
Love this content! Nobody is getting down to this detail like you guys.
Thanks man, learning as we go. It's amazing having so much help in the comments section.
Good work guys! Hey I’m not really a bmw guy so I’m not in the know. Regards all the deposits going back through the inlet manifold through the head, can you run catch cans? Deleted the factory pcv valve if there have one? Any crank case pressure can vent through the catch can and not recycle back through the engine?
Dude you are on the money. That pretty much exactly what we do. I have the catch can and a revised PCV valve on my e92. I guess who ever owned this e90 wasnt aware of the carbon built up issues.
Good news! May as well do some clean up on the port casting while its apart
I should buy i will try and just get this back together as quickly as possible and as cheap as possible. We'll spend the time and money making the e92 engine as good as it can be.
Hey!! I had this same problem, You should get water methanol injection! After 5 years having it, Theres no dirty intake ports? And the cars faster!!! Also I have fitted a better oil catch can.
Well on my actual car i do run port injection. Just who ever owned this one before they crashed it, definitely didnt lol.
8:52 From what I see from the video the valve and seat are not that bad. I think that you can reseat the valves without going to a machine shop. You can use some course then a fine abrasive paste for valve grinding with a drill on low settings. I've done this on my E39's M52 head. The valves on cylinder 4 and 6 were not sealing properly and I used this method. It took some thime and I had to redo it a couple of times, but in the end they sealed perfectly. Another thing you could do since you have the head off, if you have the time you can polish the ports and valves. Personally I didn't do it on my engine(because I'm kinda lazy :D) but It would definitely help reduce carbon buildup in the future.
Sweet, pretty easy rebuild 😊 I’d just get some lapping paste n do all of them to be honest! I’d possibly change the bottom end shells as well! You’ll be up n running in no time! More N54 content 👍🏻
Im thinking about doing all the valves.... although the rest are sealing fine at this point in time, according to comp test. I know i should to the rod bearings, but i think im just going to save it for the e92 engine build. Just want to get this back in the car and running as cheaply as possible.
@Zero To 60 yeah mate, that sounds like a plan! You’ll be up n driving in no time! Not sure if u should lightly have the head skimmed or not even so head gasket hadn’t gone, might be worth doing 🤷🏼♂️not entirely sure why No.4 rod bearings tend to wear the most on these engines, the engine looked clean though when u took it apart so maintenance looked as though it had been done!
Such a shame you had to pull the whole head off to find it was just carbon. These things happen but hey-great chance to refresh the top and bottom end. Thanks for making this
Ahhhh, the alternative was throwing the motor in and hoping for the best. The worst part is, i am just going to assemble this on the cheap. I'll save the refresh for the e92 engine. Maybe add some stronger bits in with e92 motor build.
now knowing what was wrong would a fuel system cleaner been worth trying and do you think it could have fixed problem? For example the Nulon petrol fuel system clean or something similar to it.
It wouldn't unfortunately. One of the down sides of direct injection, the fuel is only entered straight in to the combustion chamber. So you will still get the massive build up on the inlet valves due to the pcv system. A fuel cleaner may reduce carbon in the combustion chamber..... maybe (that is a huge maybe) but the reality is you still get all the dirty oily air coming from the crankcase anyway.
you have gone this far take the other cam out and get a complete valve job done then the seats and valves will be clean and sealed and face the head surfaced put a new set of valve stem rubbers on as well and you should be all good the you can do it all over again on the e92 engine lol it would be a shame if you only did the one set of valves and down the track a different cylinder started leaking can't wait to see more content on your e92 keep up the great content
Glad that was not a major issue, are you going to do forged internals?
Not on this engine. Simply can't quite afford the build i'd want to do right now. But i will with the e92 motor. Just want to get the car running again, then work on building a decent motor for real power down the track.
Hand lapping with a little compound should let you take your time and not abrade too aggressively... it'll work perfectly first time, if you order the spare ones too so you have to go through the faff of returning them. Don't order the spares and it'll probably set fire or something :D
May as well do a port and polish while you at it. And a 3 angle valve seat job. Good gains to be made while the head is off.
I wont with the e90 engine, just want to get the car back on the road as quickly as possible.However will go a bit more deeply in to the e92 engine build.
Give them a lap and make sure that you still have a seat present and there is no distortion on the seat or the valve. If the seat isn't clean and crisp you may have a tuliped or otherwise softened seat. When you next tune, watch the port or pre turbine temperatures.
This seems pretty common for direct injection engines that are not looked after. Do you guys use stuff like an upper engine cleaner like they use on Subaru's?
In the N54 world we dont. We normally walnut blast, however, obviously the guy who owned and crashed the e90 obviously never got the memo.
Do everything mentioned and more 👍
Lifters and big end and cam ledge
what cam tool are you using ?
Everyone loves a tame dealer tech.
What’s the song used for the first part of the video? I would love links in the description if it’s not a big hassle
It's from the youtube music library. "Don't Wanna Be - Kwon". Very rare to have lyrics in copyright free music.
Zero To 60 awesome, thanks for the quick response! Your channel has become my favorite for sure! I’m sure you’ve seen it but the channel “vehicular diy” just did a series on an N54 rebuild! It’s a really informative channel and that series is very relevant to what you’re dealing with.
It would also be cool to see you do a light porting on the head while you’ve got it off! Take a dremel and clean the casting marks up and smooth out any jagged edges
I’m following along this video trying to change my head gasket but I’m stuck at how to get the barcodes facing up to use the camshaft locking tool. I don’t know how to rotate it, can anyone tell me how to?
On your original engine (assuming its the same thing) I'd have a try at undoing spark plug, turn engine until exhaust valves open, spray crc decarb with the long straw. (The straw shoots 4 90 deg jets) your bound to soak the exhaust valve and seat. Let it soak overnight.
Worth a shot for 20 bucks and 1 hour. 👍 😎
Would be nice if you can do some porting as the head is off.
Not on the e90 engine, this one is going to be a cheap quick as possible fix. The e92 engine on the other hand, that one will get all the love it can.
As long as you have the head off it’s the perfect time to pop out the valves, wire wheel the head and valves, walnut blast the intake side, and finish with a valve lapping. She’ll be good as new!
Wow if that's all it is then as everyone else has said you'll probably get away with just lapping the valves, now I'm interesting to know what the state of the other engine is...
Me too, just for the sake of knowing. Keep in mind the e92 is way more down on compression, than the e90 was.
Don't know if the carbon came from the intake or a byproduct of a leaky injector. I think they were pretty old on this motor if I remember. In retrospect it might have been good to try one of the carbon cleaning products on the market like CRC valve cleaner, but hindsight is 20/20.
Looking forward to the tear down of the E92 engine. I suspect a broken ring land, but I am hardly a professional. It will be interesting to see how the inside of that engine looks versus the E90 engine.
Do you plan on stabilizing the cylinders with a closed deck kit in the E92 built motor? I think you are at the power levels with the 17T turbos where ovaling the cylinders starts to become a risk long term. Especially if you want to continue to push it.
Well cleaning the intake valves and intake ports wont help the exhaust valves seal..... But if the previous owner was up on maintenance on this e90 it probably never would have happened. There is minimal carbon on the pistons nothing excessive really although i may give them a clean. But the intake valves are caked...... definitely needed doing many many kilometres ago.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah, I don't mean the ports. I mean pool the product in the throat on top of the valve to see if it would have eaten the carbon between the seats and the valves. For the cost of a can over the time spent tearing the engine apart, buying some new gaskets/seals and assembly it may have been worth it.
But like I said you didn't know the problem before it was apart. Hindsight is 20/20.
You've got a lot of wet valves, are your valve stem seals and valve guides ok? Not leaking any oil into the cylinders causing it to smoke at all? Does the car have blocked cats at all? If I was you I'd be replacing all stem seals and check for valve play make sure valve guides dont need replacing... I literally have this exact problem in mine right now (valve stem seal) and its started smoking like a mofo in cylinder 6 but in saying that my symptoms are different to yours I have a fouled plug in that cylinder and idle has gone to shit.... thanks for this video though as it's a good way for me to work out what bolts need to be undone and what not 👌😁
Unfortunately only got to run this engine for like 10 seconds as it was from crashed parts car. It sounded mint, but didnt run for long enough to see any smoke from anywhere. The pistons in this e90 are pretty normal (apparently) in regards to carbon build up. Doesn't appear to be any oil in there, but can't say for sure. Plug wasnt that dirty.
Yours sounds more like my e92 engine except cyl 4 is down to 100psi on a comp test. The e92 has a very slight rough idle and oil on the plug. Not smoking, well not noticeable. But i picked up on the rough idle straight away. My suspicion on the e92 is bent rod and broken ringland. Once i get the e90 engine to a useable state i will pull the motor from the e92 and find out exactly whats going on.
Have you done a comp test on yours yet?
Reason i ask about the comp test, i have had a n62 with with leaking valve stem seals and they never cause a rough idle. Just a flat out smoke machine if you leave them idling for 5 mins.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah did a dodge comp test on the injured cylinder 6 without opening the throttle body and came up with 100psi. Cylinder 1 came up with 125psi. Didn't bother doing the rest coz the comp tester fitting got stuck in the plug hole so I walked away from it lol and ended up using loctite to get the fitting out but had to drive the car 1000km the next day as had family emergency. I dont think I've got a bent rod coz the car drove fine for 1000km smoking here and there, light throttle crusing the smoke clears up(not 100%, maybe 85% gone) but when you get off it after overtaking for example a good little puff comes out. The plug is pretty bad. If I could put a pic in here to show you I would. Iridium plug too so not cheap to replace not that the price worries me....
Awesome result!
Awesome result. Time for EGR delete and a catch can. You'll get way better air density for the turbskie's and more power. 😃
Change the timing chain and the chain guide slide plastic they like too break and the oil pump chain guide is easy too chane now
While that is a very wise thing to do, i want to just get this e90 motor in my e92 and get driving again. Then build the e92 motor stronger and replace service things like timing chain, crank hub, etc. This e90 motor will be done on the cheap.... for now.
@@ZeroTo60Tube You have that engine open now and i know you missing the car i drive my 335i daily with a smile on my face everyday i know that you missing the car so much i would have a good engine in the car then problems on the road or testing
Mech/chemical cleaning, new valve stem seals, new headgasket and chuck it back in. Do a bit of lapping to tidy it up after cleaning. Team Poverty racing can get anything going :D
haha. team poverty racing.... i like it.
Just do a valve lapping job, remove all the valves, clean all the head ports intake and exhaust, remove all the carbon, lap the valves, replace the valve seals, they are chep even the oem ones and easy to change. And after all that you have almost "brand new" head. Do the job and learn more do not take to machine shop for that.
Good job on presumably finding the culprit of the low compression!
BUT, perhaps it's just me but I find it rather interesting that such a small amount of carbon buildup can almost completly negate the pressure buildup by the piston. I would re-install the valve, remove the intake cam, flip the head upside down and pour gasoline in all 6 valve cavities and fill them approx flush with the head. Then monitor how much gasoline seaps through the not properly seating valves. If gasoline isn't making it's way through the in- or exhaust valves then perhaps it would seap through the injector or spark plug. The other thing that worries me, is the carbon buildup on the piston itself on cylinder 4. It's makes me wonder if the injector on cylinder 4 was clogged/bad/at the end of it's life. Excuse me for my spectisim, but since you allready removed the head, I would diagnose the problem as much as I can, so that you can find the cause. Since you are planning to mix and match engine parts in order to build a new "healthy" engine, I wouldn't leave nothing to chance :D
BUT, I'm also just an amateur car-enthousiast/mechanic so perhaps take my advice with a grain of salt :-)
Keep it up!
Something i never ended up doing on camera, but last week i filled the exhaust port with brake cleaner. Suspecting possible carbon build up. I let it soak for a few seconds, then compressed the cylinder the leak down tester. I could see a point on the valve where the air was rushing up through the brake cleaner. I actually messed with it for a good hour, trying more brake cleaner and cracking the valve open ever so slightly, then opening the valve and trying to clean it with the head on....... Nothing seems to make a difference. I was half expecting a pin hole or burnt valve today. But it looks like its just carbon. Keep in mind this cylinder was still making the best part of 150psi. Also with the leak down tester air would only start to rush out, when you i got to about 30 psi. I do need to work out a better way to check the valve is seated properly if i do just lap it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Ooh, ok. Wasn't aware that you took a somewhat "similar" approach with the brake cleaner. You can only cram so much into one video :D I'm really flabbergasted that such a small amount of carbon can be so stubborn and devestating that you actually need to crack the head in order to get it sorted. From now on I would consider carbon my nemisis =D
You should show how you remove the valve spring. Don't make sense to show how yo do the valve if you don't know how to remove them...especially if you don't have the right tools
Brake clean the valve, lapping compound , and lap the valve against the seat. Done ✌️
Sounds too easy.... hehe
You’ve got the motor down to the block, put a set of rods in, and open the gap. The pistons are strong enough to handle 700 whp.
re lap all valves and clean out all the ports. Clean piston tops, put back together and send it.
I like this!!
A couple of frames 7:22 mark the valve looks bent, but it's hard to tell. I would replace the valves on that cylinder. Actually I've seen worse on the intake side. I'm wondering if the injectors caused a lean condition. You will need to look way closer for any cracks. Let the machine shop do a head job, replace #4 valves
Spinning the valve in drill, it "appears" perfect, but with the carbon on it, it is hard to tell and it take bugger all to be an issue. Have got a new valve on the way, just in case.
Zero To 60 because of all the carbon it's worth letting the machine shop do the full job. ESPECIALLY if this is a high hp build. Do the bearings, spin the bottom end, do a timing chain and cartridge too, these aren't that big $$ part jobs. It will be a perfect someday backup engine once a strengthened N54 can be built.
That chunk of carbon may have been knocked loose from the impact of the accident. The car definitely took a hard hit. That valve seat should clean up nicely with some lapping compound.
Should be able to just clean and relap them. Ide prob just send the head into Caloundra engine centre and get it hot tanked and checked. Ide also drop the sump off and inspect bearings whilst you that deep
Now i know i should send this to a machine shop... i know this... but i also want to learn how to fix this sort of problem. We'll see how i go and what i can learn from reading. Will definitely be pulling the sump off. However will probably leave the bearings in this engine for now. Want to save every dollar i can for the other build, which i will do with the intension of making it stronger.
Zero To 60 yep know the feeling, mine I expected to replace some big ends, now it’s escalating to a full rebuild. My wallet and credit card are not impressed
Hey I got a question about the 17Ts inlets do you just use the Clamp to clamp them on?
Yes just a normal hose clamp on mine. The inlets i bought did come with clamps.
Zero To 60 the one that comes with the inlets right?
Zero To 60 my one looks like it’s too big it’s not sitting on the turbo housing even if I tighten it you have any way you can reach out to me I need some help
@@romezmiller4701 Do you definitely have the 17t turbos with 2 inch inlets? There are china turbos out there with only 1.75 inch inlets. Have you measure your turbo inlet housing?
Zero To 60 yup I can’t even send you a pic
Is that carbon buildup from bad petrol?Or driving the car on short distances?Or drving on low rpm most of the time?
It's because it's direct injected. There's no fuel sprayed there to wash the valve like in a port injected motor, so you get carbon buildup.
Zeroyon is correct. All direct injected engines have the same problem. Fuel is sprayed directly in to the combustion chamber and never passes the valves or intake port. On port injected cars the fuel will clean off the valves as it hits them on the way in to the cylinder. It comes from the PCV system which vents the crank case fumes in back in to the intake system. So basically you get the oil vapour coming back through the intake then drying or backing on to the valves.
But....intake valves should be clean....From air they cant't be so dirty.It seems that valves are not closed 100%,so few bits of carbon passes by during the combustion?Hm?
As i stated above "So basically you get the oil vapour coming back through the intake then drying or backing on to the valves."
You might need to do some research on PCV systems so you understand.
So relieved 😌
man the projector light oscillating in the back got me disoriented LOL
Pain in the ass, sometimes the cameras work around the flicker and other times they can't fix it. Sorry man.If we run with it off, the image gets really grainy as there is bugger all light in the shed.
Time to clean up all the carbon and put new valve seals while you have the head off, have the head hot tanked and cleaned, so your going to need a head gasket set good luck.
Are you going to close the deck while you’re in there?
Grouted N54 🤣
Not on the e90 engine, but thats the plan with the e92 motor. Lets get the e90 one in the car and running and build a stronger engine as funds allow.
Result... ebay walnut blaster?? 👌🏴
I do actually already have a walnut blasting setup. So i will do the intake port and valves. Need to work out the best way to sort out the exhaust valves.
What if the e92 motor is the same thing?
It means i wont have to get it re-bored for the forged build :P Considering how bad the comp was on the e92 i am expecting worse. But we will see soon.
Personally I’d clean them and lap the valves again put it together and it should be good to go. New head gasget and possibly head bolt.
I like the sound of that.
Zero To 60 I did say it was more than likely carbon, one thing I hate about direct injection is not having the fuel to keep the intake valves clean. Been toying with getting an e90 myself but reliability has always been my concern as I’m hard on track cars.
@2:25, what was that he removed from the side?
Timing chain tensioner
Or as i liked to call it in the second part chiming chain chensioner..... :|
Could it not be the same issue on the e92?
It could be, but whatever is wrong with the e92 is much worse. Looking forward to getting to that soon. But while the e90 engine was in the shed, i wanted to get it fixed and considering it ran smooth and was only 30-40psi down on that one cylinder, i was hoping it was somehting simple. Im hoping to get this engine all sweet and then get it in the e92 nice and quickly, then take my time building the e92 engine over a 6-12 month period and do everything properly.
Use a sharpening stone, new one, to clean the decks
Should pull all the valve and lap them all with lapping compound
Would seafoam work without pulling the engine?
it may help. but it wont fix the problem
Just pull all the valves out clean all of them and hand lap them in as long as all the valve stem tips are the same height and you should be good
Thats a good tip. I was pretty keen to just do the one. But may as well learn on them all.
Zero To 60 it’s easy and cheap just remember to use the coarse paste first then the fine then clean after each paste then last of all use abit off spit and a quick lap you’ll see the valve start to clean up and Lapp in almost instantaneously but do wipe clean after each Lapp to see all contact patch in the seat and valve
Do the same to the engine in the car. You'll have two running engines and won't need to swap it out.
The other motor is going to be the same problem.......I would definitely go ahead and pull that head too before doing another entire engine swap.
You think? It's down much more compression. And the rough idle. If it is the same its definitely leaking a lot more. We will see soon.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I still think so. If you're down compression because the valve isn't seated all the way how much compression will you be down if a valve is damaged? Both of mine misfired bad and threw cylinder 4 misfire codes. All because of slightly damaged valves.
Bout to take mines off this week. Not looking forward to it. Who has sewn a head gasket leak on the outside just oil no pressure loss or white milk zero sytoms just leaking oil. Got to take the whole head off. And no it's not the vavle cover no it's no oil filter housing replace every seal gasket o ring in this car. Only area we see head gasket leaking oil right in the front of car
Good luck!
Just rebuild it. The time and money saved is not worth skipping at this point. The horsepower involved is a big ask of a standard engine anyway. If I were you, I'd keep your engine, take the head off and rebuild it, and mod this one at your leisure. No point swapping an engine if it's unnesessary .
Remove and lap ALL of your valves. There is literally no downside to it.
Sorry I have to disagree. When you lap the valves you ruin the extremely precise factory valve seat cut job. The only reason to lap a valve is if you were to replace that valve. You could lap the valves and the engine would still run. but they make extremely precise cuts, down to tenths of a degree at multiple different angles, for heat transfer from the valve to the head and airflow. and your change that when you lap them. Just what I've learned
I'd agree with laping the one problem valve to clean the carbon purse off tho 👍
Piece* 😂
@@eric49a just out of curiosity, how many engines have you built?
Yeah just clean it and re lap it. Laughing. Although I'd be tempted to forge it while I was there haha
Definitely doing a forged build. But it will (if all goes to plan) be the e92 motor, not the e90 motor. I need to save up a bit for the proper build. Which is why i'm trying to do this one as cheaply as possible. Should be an interesting 6-12 months (hopefully no more unplanned blowups, just planned ones when send the 17ts on a dyno :P)
@@ZeroTo60Tube haha that's it mate. Always a planned blow up. I'm just fitting my big boost 3.4 to my n55 2 series now. I'm planning a blow up soon then forging it after haha. It's not a real blow up if its planned....it doesnt count 🤣🤷♂️
@@ZeroTo60Tube lazy forged build aka drop in china pistons?
totally in theme with the build haha
actually, now that i check... you can get rods for under $500 a set from china. pistons are a bit under $700usd lol
@@flinchy952 I've been searching can only find china versions of the stock pistons which aren't forged. Have you got a link to the ones you found for 700usd?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I'll send you a pm
Take it to a machine shop get it hot tanked and surfaced. Have them do a valve job.
Just needs lapping in. Result 😁 But what's wrong with the other engine, that's what we all want to know......head off that next?
Staking the valves could have knocked the carbon off
Should be good rectified the head and cleaned the valve seats in the machine shop
Could you soak the valves in something to clean the carbon off? I want to suggest gasoline but we all know how the UA-cam comment section can be
Just for curiositys sake i am going to try that and see what sort of results it has on the carbon. While the heads off, none can end up in the cylinder, so good time to experiment.
Hmmm carbon build up . I think someone made that suggestion.
Don’t cha have any Sheilas in the shed?
Only on Thursday and Sunday nights. Their hourly rate is too high for other times.... Those vids are on our pornhub channel. Zero To 60 seconds...... :|
Maybe you having same issue with your old engine clean it and run it
Regular Subaru upper engine cleaner
I think i might give that stuff a go. Been wanting a reason to try it for ages.
Winner
Scotch bright pad and wd-40 on both. Will make it shine like a diamond in a goat's ass lol.
Lap lap lap lap lap lap lap! EASY!!
Good news for sure. Don't forget those stretch bolts holding the cam sprockets are one time use. www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-collar-screw-m10x1x94-11367524954#fitment if you haven't ordered yet
Head refresh hot bath relap the valves new stem seals and throw it back together
Have you ever heard the band the streets and there famous song blinded by the lights give it listen this how I felt all the way through the video 🤣🤣
The streets? Sounds like something i would have listened to when i wasnt famous....... :P
@@ZeroTo60Tube 🤣 seruisly tho flicking lights or glear off them i love the show but the lights are annoying
I hear you dude. Caused by wiping the go pro with a slightly dirty cloth, which left a slight smear on the lens (something you can't really see unless you look at a reflection in the lens). I noticed after a couple of takes.... Oh and that light can eat a dick. The go pro works out the flicker and fixes it sometimes then other times it doesn't..... We've spent nearly 10 grand on camera/audio and lighting gear since we started in 2016, its painful to say the least. Starting to realise why a proper studio setup is 100k+
@@ZeroTo60Tube 10k that commitment i thought spending 200 on phone gimble set up and 1.5k on drone was over priced but the money has to be spent to get the shots we want.
Hope this engine goes back together soon and she fixed good luck with it
@@movementonthetyne2785 Ahh man its painful. In the early days we used to think you needed the gear to make the content. Ever heard the saying all the gear and no idea haha. We try and keep it simple nower days. Reasonable audio, minimal shakey cam and just focus on what we filming, not the filming its self. However occasionally we get caught out with a cock up where the flickering is crazy. I may sell those lights on. They are great in person, just something in them the cameras struggle with them at sometimes.
Sort out that light on on the wall
Sorry dude. Sometimes the camera sorts the flicker and sometimes it struggles. We can't actually see the flicker. Camera is all set to our power frequency it just struggles with that light. If i hold the camera still for a few seconds it syncs with the LEDs and its sweet, but sometimes, it does what you see in this vid.
😌😌👍👍👍