Another thing that will chooch a solenoid over time , is if ya can grab either the starter cable or power lead and wiggle it on the post. If so, remove the wire and tighten the base nut. Over time I ya don't, the little disc that pulls up and makes contact with the posts gets all chooched up. It's amazing how many people dont know how a solenoid works, or it's intimidating or something. It's just an overgrown relay. Of course ya need to know how a relay works :) In the automotive world we designate the terminals b+, that the always hot one , the other lead to the motor is called the M terminal, and the small one to engage the solenoid is the S terminal. Of course on a 4 pole the other terminal is ground. Good stuff man, electricity is good stuff. Don't b afraid of it, get schooled!!
Thanks for the vid. That was a big help. I have a 3 prong that I needed to test and it tested successfully. I just tested the starter and it didn't turn over - now we're getting somewhere. Much appreciated.
If you have a rivet tool and some small pop rivets, you can repair SOME of these solenoids and buy yourself some time to get a replacement solenoid. If you have one like the ones in this video: Drill out the old rivets. Take the case apart, being careful to keep track of the cover, the spring, and coil and the contact bar inside. Carefully disassemble the solenoid to get to the contact bar and the studs inside. If you remove the retaining nuts the studs will push out. You can resurface all the contact points with sandpaper, or grip the stud in a cordless drill and spin it against your abrasive, being careful to keep the surface flat as you do. If you have any dielectric grease, put just a dab on each contact point. This helps to keep them from burning. Carefully reassemble all the parts together. Using the correct diameter and length pop rivets, rivet the case back together. On a mechanical-ability scale of 1 to 10, I'd rate this at about a 6. If that solenoid is on its way to the scrapper, what have you got to lose?
I had one recently that had melted on the one stud and it was sunken in. Not wanting to stop to go into town to get a new one, I opted to fix it. I simply soldered a copper washer to the end of the sunken stud, cleaned it very carefully to match the depth of the other and reassembled it. Believe it or not, it did work. At least until his new one arrived.
It's funny because i am a every day watcher of 3d machines and my solenoid just went out and i was searching up for it and found this which has helped me out a lot.
Ok, I have one that clicks like that when power is on it but doest show continuity. I kept thinking the click meant it was good. I see now that you cant trust that. Others tell you that the click means it's good....geeessshh! Thanks for the video and clearing this up!
Are you sure about this? I have continuity between the two tabs on my four-pole solenoid. Seems like something will short if I connect charger as described.
my toro riding mower starts, but has weird symptoms...takes up to three seconds for it to crank after turning key...or struggles to turn the starter at all until i turn the key back and forth up to three times before it cranks. the battery is brand new and in perfect charge and load tested. can anyone suggest what i should check or replace? thanks!
I'm no lawn mower mechanic, but it could possibly be anything from bad connections to your starter. Check and see if your connections are rusted. If they are, get a wire brush and brush them off with a little gas. get them shined as possible and put them back on and see if that does anything. (Like I said, I don't know that's the problem. just a guess! :)
you should never check continuity(OHMs) when voltage is applied to the circuit. You should be checking to see if voltage went through as the contacts got energized and closed the circuit to allow current through...
Another thing that will chooch a solenoid over time , is if ya can grab either the starter cable or power lead and wiggle it on the post. If so, remove the wire and tighten the base nut.
Over time I ya don't, the little disc that pulls up and makes contact with the posts gets all chooched up.
It's amazing how many people dont know how a solenoid works, or it's intimidating or something. It's just an overgrown relay. Of course ya need to know how a relay works :)
In the automotive world we designate the terminals b+, that the always hot one , the other lead to the motor is called the M terminal, and the small one to engage the solenoid is the S terminal.
Of course on a 4 pole the other terminal is ground.
Good stuff man, electricity is good stuff. Don't b afraid of it, get schooled!!
Excellent straight to the subject and point video tutorial. Salute.
Thanks for the vid. That was a big help. I have a 3 prong that I needed to test and it tested successfully. I just tested the starter and it didn't turn over - now we're getting somewhere. Much appreciated.
First one I found who touched on how solenoids work properly. thanks.
Lot of the videos out there makes it confusing. Your video was simple and easy! Thanks!!
If you have a rivet tool and some small pop rivets, you can repair SOME of these solenoids and buy yourself some time to get a replacement solenoid.
If you have one like the ones in this video:
Drill out the old rivets.
Take the case apart, being careful to keep track of the cover, the spring, and coil and the contact bar inside.
Carefully disassemble the solenoid to get to the contact bar and the studs inside. If you remove the retaining nuts the studs will push out.
You can resurface all the contact points with sandpaper, or grip the stud in a cordless drill and spin it against your abrasive, being careful to keep the surface flat as you do.
If you have any dielectric grease, put just a dab on each contact point. This helps to keep them from burning.
Carefully reassemble all the parts together. Using the correct diameter and length pop rivets, rivet the case back together.
On a mechanical-ability scale of 1 to 10, I'd rate this at about a 6. If that solenoid is on its way to the scrapper, what have you got to lose?
I had one recently that had melted on the one stud and it was sunken in. Not wanting to stop to go into town to get a new one, I opted to fix it. I simply soldered a copper washer to the end of the sunken stud, cleaned it very carefully to match the depth of the other and reassembled it. Believe it or not, it did work. At least until his new one arrived.
Hey 3D thanks for the video! Glad you shared! Helped me out bro! Keep on truckin! Again thanks much!✌🏼
It's funny because i am a every day watcher of 3d machines and my solenoid just went out and i was searching up for it and found this which has helped me out a lot.
Thanks for the video showing how to test the solenoid, that was the problem I had. Again Thank You!
Great video. Simple explanation. Thanks so much for sharing knowledge
thank for explaining it clearly.
Friggin love big reds and 200m's. I'm from Newfoundland and everyone had one back in the day
Great video and thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
I like your lift, looks handier than hell. What make is it?
Ok, I have one that clicks like that when power is on it but doest show continuity. I kept thinking the click meant it was good. I see now that you cant trust that. Others tell you that the click means it's good....geeessshh! Thanks for the video and clearing this up!
very well executed, you are a pro!
Thank You!! Excellent video!!
great help w solenoid , thank u
great to see bud .... i gotta swap the one out of the dynamonster
You can use a battery and some cables too just make sure you don't shock yourself lol
Do you trouble shoot for people? We have a Toro 14-38, replaced starter switch, solenoid,spark plug,and get zero start.
So the solenoid is like a big ass relay? Thanks
Are you building another racing mower?
Why would check for continuity instead of volts when energizing solenoid.
Thanks man
Part place only had a 4 post solenoid. I had a 3 post. How do I ground the 4th post? Thanks
This helped!
Ty very helpful.
i did a basic engine swap, on a stx38 , when i went to hook up battery the engine is turning over without key on, what could be the problem
Thanks for this. Thought my solenoid was pooched but this test proved otherwise!
When i put my charger on the solenoid its keeps vibrating. How come is this also a sign of broken solenoid?
Thank You!
you the man..
Thank you.
Good Job
great job on ohm's law
how do you change/fix big red 84 cylinoid
good fix
❤️
Are you sure about this? I have continuity between the two tabs on my four-pole solenoid. Seems like something will short if I connect charger as described.
Len Williams the first
my toro riding mower starts, but has weird symptoms...takes up to three seconds for it to crank after turning key...or struggles to turn the starter at all until i turn the key back and forth up to three times before it cranks. the battery is brand new and in perfect charge and load tested. can anyone suggest what i should check or replace? thanks!
healthyamerican valve clearance
I'm no lawn mower mechanic, but it could possibly be anything from bad connections to your starter. Check and see if your connections are rusted. If they are, get a wire brush and brush them off with a little gas. get them shined as possible and put them back on and see if that does anything. (Like I said, I don't know that's the problem. just a guess! :)
Yeah....check out his shit
Okay, tested it and it's not the solenoid. Grrrrr. Not sure where to go next.
Easy? 🤣 You forgot the hard part, getting that little 💩 out of the lawnmower! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Please rush through faster!!!!!!
you should never check continuity(OHMs) when voltage is applied to the circuit. You should be checking to see if voltage went through as the contacts got energized and closed the circuit to allow current through...
its a different circuit and thats the whole point of the solenoid to close one circuit in order to close another carrying more current.
Ģ