Thank you so much. You're right, all the other videos would show the safety for the side discharge/mulch plug, or whatever i have already checked after teasing me for +15 minutes. You cut straight to the good part, you are the man!
I had just the opposite of you. I bypassed my solenoid and it took right off. Didn't have to do the magneto. I absolutely love You Tube for this kind of help. Thanks for the save brother.
Where did you run the wire from and to to bypass I did the magneto wire and have fire and using starting fluid it should atleast hit. So I know it's a wire.
Great tip matey. My McCulloch has been intermittently failing to engage the blades.... ran the magneto wire as you showed and it's cutting perfectly again. Thanks from a Brit in France. 👍🙂🏴🇨🇵
Thank you for posting this. My Husqvarna quit starting, so I got a new solenoid still wouldn't start"🤬"for two weeks I have checked everything I could think of and still couldn't figure it out😭. Then I found this video, I ran a new wire from the switch to the solenoid, now it starts right up 😃🙏God Bless You🙏
Awesome Video Brother, although I have a Zero turn Gravely 52" mower that is a Beast & cut's my yard with Ease, I have had an older Craftsman mower that refused to start even after I tried to trace the wiring to isolate the safety sensors & finally said Hell with it & bought my Gravely 52" Zero turn !! After watching your Very instructive video I was able to solve the saftey by pass & it fired right up ! I didn't have to bypass the carberator safety because I had Already done that !! Thank you Very much for your support through your Video Brother because I am going to pull the mower deck & use the old mower for towing my yard trailers that I have built to help move debris from my yard before mowing or to haul trash to the end of the driveway where my bulk trash container is located each Sunday night so it will be ready for the local trash pickup early on Monday mornings !!!!!
HOORAY!!!!.....You just saved me countless hours of frustration and a lot of money....HOORAY..!!! My 11-year-old Craftsman YT4000 had been not wanting to start on a regular basis for a while. Sometimes it would start immediately, and at other times, it wouldn't. I would pump the brake pedal a bunch of times and eventually it would start. But yesterday it quit entirely. I found this video and you explained it so easily and simply....BRAVO....!! I just Jumper'd the start wire to the solenoid and that was all my situation needed....FANTASTIC.....!!! A thousand thanks to you.....!!! You just earned a very grateful new subscriber...!!
Heck yeah! I got a Troy Built mower with multiple jancky safety switches. Pretty bad corrosion in the electrical, and I been chasing it forever. But when I jump the starter, it starts & runs like a champ. And turns off with the key. I'm thinking I might re-wire that unit. Guess I'll just need to keep in mind that I shouldn't jump off the running mower and throw myself underneath.
Thanks for the video. I have a 54" cub cadet zero turn. Wouldn't do anything when the key was turned. I bypassed the wire from the magnetos to the key switch. Now it starts and runs great. I believe it was the parking brake safety switch. However, the steering handles safety switches still work.
Thanks for this, brother. 👏 I could tell right away most of the other videos were addressing a switch at a time. Or they were considering the solenoid but overlooking the magneto. You made it simple. 😉
I have a 2013 Craftsman YT-3000 by Husqvarna and can cut grass in reverse using the designated key switch position, I pinned the seat safety switch engaged years ago which was necessary for leaning while cutting along a 150 ft long section of a steep slope just above a concrete swail. I eventually had to use a roll pin on the brake pedal safety switch to always be engaged last year because I install solid removable leg shields around the edge of the floorboards for the winter that attaches to my winter cab set up and there is not enough travel clearance to push the pedal all the way down to engage the starter switch. Your way looks to be pretty good because you can still bypass everything and don't have to worry about one of the switches going bad and having to troubleshoot them all to find the problem.
Hi - great video and I by-passed the safety switches by cutting white wire to main key switch and connecting to the white solenoid terminal - engine then cranked but would not start. Then cut wire from M connector main key switch and spliced into wire just before magneto - engine cranks but still will not start - any ideas please -I'm determined to get there in the end!!
All sorted and I should have thought more first - if there are 2 wires going into the M socket only cut the black one; Mower/tractor working well now -Thanks balkanvt
I am wondering about video at 6.40 into video. Can you simply remove the white wire connected to the solenoid and then run a short red wire across the 2 posts on the solenoid to have an always on situation? Also to quickly troubleshoot no spark at sparkplug can you run say a red wire from battery directly to the post on the starter? I am wondering what the best way to make sure no safety stuff is preventing no spark at spark plug? I am trying to see if the ignition coil is damaged and the quickest way to get all safety stuff out of the loop. I should have mentioned this. The engine does crank using carb fluid going into carb intake and the flywheel spins but engine refuses to start even for a few seconds.
First and second question is "no" because both scenarios will give constant power to the starter - the equivalent of turning the key to start your car but you never let go of the key. Also, for the 2nd question, starter needs more amperage than a small wire can handle, which is why there are thick wires with a solenoid and a small wire controls the solenoid (think of a simple on/off relay). As for your no-spark situation, your magneto (ignition module) is the only thing making spark. It does so via magnets to "posts" on the flywheel - as those flywheel magnets turn past the magneto, they make power, magneto sends it down to the sparkplug. 1) check spacing between magneto and flywheel magnet, can't be touching but has to be close. 2) if that's not it, bypass the magneto (4:40 in video) next cos that's free. 3) if still no spark, buy a new magneto, they're only about $25 on amazon and very simple to replace.
@@balkanvt Thanks for the reply. I was trying to figure out if the spark plug tip was sparking and it is. No messing with safety features other than placing riding mower in Park. Yesterday the only thing I know was with carb fluid sprayed into the carb the engine refused to even slightly start. So now after doing the correct spark plug test ( there is spark ) now I have to go back to figuring out why it will not even slightly start. I checked the piston travel from TDC with long skewer and it seems like no broken connection rod. The push rods seem perfect the valve clearance is fine the rockers are perfect. Will be going back to testing, "why the engine will not slightly start" when using carb cleaner intake method
Thanks for the video! I'm bypassing the safeties because my Husq/Kawa riding mower will not run. They are overly complicated IMO. I have a compact backhoe/frontloader that is far more "dangerous" than a mower, and it has a simple ignition key: stop, run and start. I wish that my getting-older mower was that simple and intend to make it that way. Question: is the magneto wire you mention that goes behind the starter, the same one that runs to (both) coils on my Kawa 15 hp 2-cylinder engine? PS Doesn't appear that my carb has a fuel solenoid? Of course it has the starter one with 2 small posts (+the two large ones), the positive side has 2 wires in and neg side, one wire out. Any suggestions on that? Would you recommend wiring an inline car-style fuse into the new + wire between the ig. key and the solenoid? With these hacks, does your battery still charge while running the engine?
Hi, Thank you so much for this. I did it to my Poulan which looks just like yours inside. Anyway, the starter motor would run if I bypassed the solinoid, So have plenty of battery power. My meter shows over 13volts. But doing that with it in the run position with my new ignition key switch, doesn't fire up. Noticed the white wire to the solinoid when in start position, shouldn't that have voltage on it as well? When key turned to start? Well, it doesn't and seems I still don't have the voltage to everything. Is there something I'm missing? Thank you
Ahhh, was a wire broke loose in the fuse holder that goes to the ignition switch. Slapped a wire nut on them and tah dah. And thank you for your input. @@balkanvt
I think I watched 172 videos on this and all were convoluted. This was the best one. There's two wires on the M terminal though. Which one do you cut? If you cut one that goes to the magneto isn't jumping it like the same thing?
Splicing should work as well in theory as a bypass for "dumb" safety switches...if they're some sort of modern sensors tho, it might create some weird feedback. Either way, i prefer cutting because it isolates the circuit completely...hot circuits from both ends could cause shorts if something is malfunctioning - that's either a fire hazard or drains your battery quickly
I have no problem with the safeties on my Troy Bilt riding mower with the exception of the seat switch; I disabled it by simply disconnecting one of the wire connectors at the switch below the seat. However, last week I just connected both of those yellow/blk wires thus completely bypassing the seat switch. Now, with the blades PTO OFF, the engine wants to shut down when I put it into reverse gear. Is that a coincidence, or did I just see an example of "the law of unintended consequences?". Interestingly, my mower DOES have button that disables the "turn the engine off when reverse gear is engaged" safety, and if I activate that button, I am able to reverse with the PTO off. Suggestions??
This video saved my ass I'm working on a craftsman dls3500 for a old guy that just wants to use it as a beater for the tougher spots on his property so safety switches are no concern for him so I just bypassed the silanoid
on the key switch the magneto has 2 wires coming off it, does it make a difference which one I splice, or do I need to cut them both? Same with the connector at the bottom, should I cut them both or try to figure out which is the right wire?
I did the solenoid but it still won't turn over unless I cross the posts on the solenoid and it'll fire right up, I'm thinking ignition switch now, any suggestions, tha ks
Dude, I could kiss you on the mouth. Thank you for the video and thank you for not being a long-winded blabbermouth. Bypassing the solenoid was the way to go for me and it took 3 minutes. This is how to convey helpful information.
I have an Ariens about the same age as this. I do not know what wire to take the M wire to under the starter. There are 2 sets of wires there with 2 wires each. One is Black and the other wire gray. The other pair is a black wire with a red wire. The 2 pairs go behind the starter. Which one should I attach the M wire to? I jumped the white S wire directly to the solenoid and that did nothing so I assume that my safety switches are good.
I've been a small engine repairman for 50 years now. I will tell you how to safely wire a riding mower. 1) You have to have a battery, a key switch, a carburetor with the fuel cutoff solenoid, electric starter, foot clutch switch, mower deck switch. 2) Check your key switch by hooking a small 12v battery to the B spade. Turn it to run position and look for the pin or pins that are hot now and mark them. Then turn it to the start position and look for and mark that pin. Also go back and check the ones that were hot in run - did they stay hot in the start position or not ? If you find on that is hot both times THAT'S THE ONE YOU WANT. 3) If you don't have any like that then you will have to buy a single husky rectifier diode. It will have to go from the start pin to a run pin to make yourself a pin that is hot in both start and run. 4) The rest is very easy. The juice from the real starter pin goes through the foot clutch switch, then the mower deck switch then to the starter relay. It is obvious the engine can only be cranked when the mower is disengaged and the foot clutch is held down and the key twisted to start. 5) Your original or self-made "hot in both start and run position" pin goes straight to the carb cutoff solenoid. 6) Delete any wires to/from the magneto. 7) Nearly all generator voltage regulator +12 wires can go straight to the battery. The only exception is Briggs and Stratton regulators which have to be disconnected from the battery with the engine off or it will drain the battery. IF you have another pin that is hot only in run position (usually marked "A" for Accessory) that is not used for anything else you can connect a BS regulator +12 pin to that pin. 7B) If for some reason you don't a separate "hot in run only" pin AND you have a BS voltage reg you will have to buy a "cube relay" at the auto parts (headlights, air conditioner clutches and horns use them) and it will have to be powered "closed" with the same wire to carb solenoid. then of the two pins closed together the reg +12 will go to one side and the other will go to straight to the battery. 8) If you have headlights just put them on a sepeaate switch to the battery. DONE!!! You're welcome !
I'm understanding most of what you said. You don't mention the starter solenoid. Any reason? Also, when you say the "juice goes to...foot clutch switch...mower deck switch...starter relay -- is this something you redo, or is there a wire that does this? Also, my Kawa 15 hp FH430V does not have a solenoid on the carb. What then?
@@TimothyJamesDean 1) "Starter Solenoid" correctly means the electromechanical part that jerks a sliding starter pinion gear into mesh with the flywheel before the starter motor is switched on. That part first moves the gear and when it's almost done moving it last thing it closes contacts inside it to power up the motor. Some people refer to the husky remote-relay on the fender/firewall of old Ford vehicles as solenoids - but it's not correct. UBER-correctness demands I tell you the word "solenoid" just means a coiled wire that when powered creates an concentrated magnetic field. In the real world we call that simply "a coil" if it's intended to make sparks for the (battery-type) ignition. If it is part of a relay-switch we call those the "control windings" that move the contactors either open or closed. That way we save the word "solenoid" for the name of ACTUATORS. They usually use a rod or arm to move something when powered on. Note - not all small engine starters are automotive-style "shifter starters" - some just use a "Bendix" (a coarse spiral threaded motor shaft - and the inside of the pinion gear is the matching "nut") to move the gear into and out of engagement when the motor is powered on and off. Most OEMs use juice from the key switch to power the solenoid in a shifter starter. When it hits the end of it's travel it forces a copper bar to slam down across two copper bolt heads. One bolt head has a fat cable straight from +12V on it - the other bolt head has a nice strong flexible braided copper cable that goes to one of the carbon brushes riding on the segmented armature (the other brush is permanently connected to ground aka "zero volts") Myself I find it more reliable (on lawn and garden equipment) to have the start pin of a keyswitch just power the control windings of a cube relay. The cube relay also has full-time +12V off the battery supplied to it. That way the start pin only has to power the control windings of a cube relay and then the cube relay's contacts do the job of energizing the big actuator (the solenoid) inside the starter. If you have a Bendix-style starter - it's motor needs something bigger than a cube relay to power it. (strongest I ever saw was rated 40 amps). They make and sell small engine starter-relays that are rated 70 amps, max. They are junk and of shitty quality unless you get a Honda starter relay. I know guys who call these medium size start-relays "solenoids" but they are not. If you are at a garage sale and get a Ford Heavy Duty Starter relay those dogs go from 200 to 500 amps. (Everybody and their brother calls those things "solenoids" because they just don't know-no-better.) 2) You couldl buy an E-bay made-in-China carburetor that is an exact fit for your engine except it has a fuel-control solenoid for dirt cheap. Rope start engines hardly ever have fuel control solenoids (itty bitty Honda gas engine 120V generators [technically those are "alternators"] are rope started and then charge up a capacitor. When those units are switched off the cap powers the fuel solenoid to CLOSE the Main Jet) so it's odd that your electric start FH430 doesn't have one. You could also just buy a solenoid from Kawasaki or Ebay, hold the bowl of your carb tightly in place while you remove the bowl-retention special short brass bolt and replace it with a fuel control solenoid.
@@TimothyJamesDean The assumptions I made when describing a Safe Riding Lawnmower Wiring Scheme are that it has a foot clutch with a safety switch that closes when the wheel drive clutch is released (pedal held down), a separate safety switch that is closed when the mower clutch is out of gear, a Bendix Style Starter and a dedicated Start Relay, had a fuel control solenoid that must be powered on to open the carburetor main jet, that almost literally all wires (save for the ones you can see are already connected to stuff you are going to need) have been removed from the unit. The system I described should be written in words down on a piece of paper. Next make a drawing with a 12V line across it up high and a 0V line across the bottom. Put the battery on the left and (this can all be crude - you're the only one going to read it!) and next put the keyswitch and connect it's B+ up high (12V) and show it's start pin connected so as to power the control windings of a 70 amp start relay. ( of which some use a separate control winding ground connection - some just use the mounting screws for that) Next to that put the Start Relay. Connect the positive to either one of it's big terminals. Power it's control windings with the K switch's start pin. Next show the starter motor itself. It gets connected to the other big relay terminal, and they always use the mounting bolts for a ground 0volts. There you go - there is the cranking system. It should crank when you twist the key. On your drawing - move the Start relay over to the right a little - and insert the Mower Safety Switch and the Foot Clutch Safety switch into the wire. Both should be 2-wire connected. Makes no difference which order or direction the 12V is going through the switches. Now wire the machine that way verify it will only crank when both clutches are thrown out. What this does is get the "Big Power" -the cranking system - done first. Just using the Fuel Control Solenoid and never interrupting the sparks is a huge simplification both on paper and in how many wires are needed to run the machine. And lucky you - just run your Kawa's voltage regulator B+ direct to the battery. Real world it's easiest to put it on the other end of the battery cable at the Start Relay.
How do you recognize a magneto on a Cub Cadet MM 30 Hydrostatic 30 Riding Mower? Sometimes when I turn the key it does absolutely nothing, no sound at all, even though it has a brand new battery, very frustrating
I'm taking the 11hp out of my 1981 Mogomery Wards mower and putting a 1998 20hp twin craftsman motor in it so this should me how to bypass those switches since I will have to bypass them when I swap
I have the same mower, Whatcom looking to do is to be able to get off the mower and empty my leaf bags without the mower shutting off . How do you disconnect the safety switch on the seat? Thanks for any help
You can bypass just the seat switch by removing it and jumping its wires, or you can do the magneto hack I've shown in the video - that will bypass all the safeties that cause the mower to shut off after it's already running. Alternatively, look through all the comments on here for Patrick Shaw, he outlined another clean hack how to eliminate all safeties.
My mower, 2005 model Poulan, if you lock the brake you can get off while it's running. Handy for me because I have horses and sometimes have to go through 2 different gates to get where I'm going.
Disconnecting is same as a tripped safety switch - open circuit shuts off magneto. Magneto delivers energy to the spark plug. You want uninterrupted closed circuit to stay running.
I have and old Walker mower with no serial number on it, I replace the switch but don't know how the wiring goes and can't find the diagram, can someone please help me?
You probably have a open ground on one of your safety switches disconnect the trigger wire from start solenoid, test if you’re getting 12 V, all of your safety switches are working with continuity. You may want to check your ignition switch itself. Make sure it’s not corroded and connected good.
il tuo video mi da speranza, ho fatto un cablaggio andando a tentoni usando un interruttore della luce dalla batteria al motorino d' avviamento, che funziona, ma è dannatamente pericoloso, domani provero il tuo sistema alla faccia di chi parla male del tuo aiuto, grazie per i consigli
ok so u cut the magneto wire at switch and reconnect it to wire coming off magneto. i understand that but the white wire coming from solenoid what are u connecting it back to?
ok hit another road block my coil/magneto has like four wires in a plug coming off top an two coming from the side with spade connectors all whites reds and blacks so which magneto wire do i pick
@@803dj5 magneto or coil? Coil would have multiples, but I don't know why a magneto would have 6 wires...it's literally just a self-contained generator that sends voltage to the spark plug. The 2 connected wires are there to cut off the spark
Your red black and white thats to your rectifier on up once you take off your engine cover you'll see the coil that has the thick spark plug wire on it from there you'll see 1 or 2 or 3 other wires on the coil usually they are white and black disconnect the white one sometimes they have it reversed to were you'd have to leave the white on and disconnect the black wire One of them is your on off wire
In my yard, I need to back up several times with the blades running. I cannot imagine why you would need to disable the blades to back up. What a dangerous idea. My early 90s mtd deck raising lever takes a lot of effort to pull back up, imagine doing that every reverse. Fortunately my seat safety is disabled so I can get on and off the seat while the deck is running. I will be keeping my older mowers going as long as possible.
The engine dies in reverse because a few geniuses ran over their kids. Now we all must suffer because of beer drinking hillbillies! Yeah I said it!! LOL
You have to be 3 inches high to get run over by a fucking lawnmower blade like the ones in honey I shrunk the kids movie , if you ain’t got enough sense to be able to mow grass without running over your kids with a frigging lawnmower, you ain’t got no business on lawnmower in the first place or driving a car I’ll try to ride a bicycle or one of those freaking scooters I see everywhereand driving around town with foot Power like Fred Flintstone
My mower is nearly identical to the one you have in the video. I bypassed both and now it dies when I try to engage the deck. The main reason I wanted to bypass is the seat safety and i want to mow in reverse.
Right to the point! I'll be driving dangerously once I cut them ambilical cords to hell!! I can handle the basic stuff, but busting my A$$ over stuff other than perhaps the seat shut off, Im done! I'll let you know how it went.... .. . Thanks in advance.❤. Update: Used Wagos to splice stuff together for now. ( So convenient) Got it going, but on mine it looks as if I need a temporary disconnect button to the magnito to shut off! Ill place that on the dash somewhere. Took me about 20min. Once I had a map and the stuff ❣️
Skip to 4:40 if you want to skip past all the talking and get straight to the part you came here for. Everything before is just explaining what the safety switches are and it’s not needed for the average watcher.
How many entire videos did you skip looking for a solution before landing at my 440 mark there, average Karen? You deserve a cookie for sticking it out anyway, I'm proud of you.
But they are not switches they're buttons that get pressed in a switch gets flipped on or off long as you can push the button down its a button but i know you guys mean when you call them switches
Try again...the correct term is "safety switch" regardless of the way they engage...a safety button is a radiation indicator medallion. It is also used for a plethora of other things including physical and digital push buttons, NONE of which are electrical safety switches. It's a technical term, not a semantic.
You’re right and another shocking truth most people don’t realize as some of those safety switches don’t allow the ancient to chronic and some are all connected together and simply shut it off like PDO to foot break. You have to study the schematic for your mower or you could be heading into a Pandora box with, your new engineered and customized wiring overhaul
Make sure you have the correct pin(s) on the ignition switch for your model. If it still won't fire but turns over fine, I'd check fuel line, spark plug, plug wire, or coil next...that's really all that's left
Theres a easier way of doing it without cutting the ignition switch wires well it is on older John deere and older craftsmen mower's. Did your mower work fine before trying any of these tests
Disconnect your fuel, solenoid, wiring, hunters just pull it out lay it to the side install a fuel cut off valve on your fuel line between the tank and the carburetor shut it off every time you’re ready to stop mowing you can even run the carburetor dry if you want, it will keep it from gunkingand you have a new drain port for your fuel just do away with it
Thanks! Good to know I can finally bypass all those switches. I have done a few, but I don't really need any of them. Those "safety" switches are just to babysit the punks who have no common sense. My old tractor didn't have any and my new will finally no have them either!
Some of these safety are there to protect you and others. Other than testing it's best to keep that in mind especially if you have children around and if they are the ones mowing your lawn. Getting off your mower with the blades running and backing up without looking and mowing on hills these are major concerns even for adults.
Thanks for that, Karen. Maybe simply skip the next video you disagree with? Cos i guarantee you anyone searching for a video on how to bypass safeties gives exactly zero F's about any of your verbal diarrhea there ✌️ you're free to run all your safeties, let the other responsible adults with common sense do their own thing
Good for him 👏 maybe he should also invest in training wheels, roll cage, and a 5pt safety harness. Never get on your mower without a SFI fire suit and helmet either just in case!
Make sure you twist the black wires together and cut the white ones except the one coming out from the coil most mowers are different so you may have 2 or 3 wires on your coil But on john deere mower's you cut an skin the rubber and twist they have 5 safety buttons they're white wires are ground wires You can do away with the fuse to if you'd like to i did
If you still have a tractor that's under warranty, you really shouldn't be googling how to disable safeties. Now continue minding your own business, wouldn't want you to go in red tag mode 🤣
people please don't hack up your wiring harness, just get someone that knows how to actually read a simple wiring diagram to fix it right for you. this is really stupid advice.
Take a long walk off a short pier bud...do you know how much a shop will charge to trace the entire harness for a break? Or even to just find which safety switch is bad and replace it when you have multiples in-line that can cause your mower to not run? I paid $400 for the mower, tested safety switches and didn't even consider spending hours looking for a break in the harness...let alone paying someone to do it for me. This is a PERMANENT fix, never have to worry about any of the safeties again. If you want to throw away your time and money on such mundane things, why even bother browsing these types of videos and commenting?
You saved me! After sitting unused for 2 years, a little wire hackery and fired right up. Great video!
Thank you so much. You're right, all the other videos would show the safety for the side discharge/mulch plug, or whatever i have already checked after teasing me for +15 minutes.
You cut straight to the good part, you are the man!
I had just the opposite of you. I bypassed my solenoid and it took right off. Didn't have to do the magneto. I absolutely love You Tube for this kind of help. Thanks for the save brother.
Where did you run the wire from and to to bypass I did the magneto wire and have fire and using starting fluid it should atleast hit. So I know it's a wire.
@@dakotathompson7965 This guy isn't clear, there is more than one wire on some running into the engine
Great tip matey.
My McCulloch has been intermittently failing to engage the blades.... ran the magneto wire as you showed and it's cutting perfectly again.
Thanks from a Brit in France. 👍🙂🏴🇨🇵
Excellent Video. Clear Instructions and Camera Work! I need to do this on an old Toro Lawn Tractor that I got for free out of a field ~. Many Thanks!
Thank you for posting this. My Husqvarna quit starting, so I got a new solenoid still wouldn't start"🤬"for two weeks I have checked everything I could think of and still couldn't figure it out😭. Then I found this video, I ran a new wire from the switch to the solenoid, now it starts right up 😃🙏God Bless You🙏
Dude. I have a 1988 white I swapped a 26 hp kohler into out of a 08 yts3000 identical to yours your a life saver dude seriously!!! Thank you
Awesome Video Brother, although I have a Zero turn Gravely 52" mower that is a Beast & cut's my yard with Ease, I have had an older Craftsman mower that refused to start even after I tried to trace the wiring to isolate the safety sensors & finally said Hell with it & bought my Gravely 52" Zero turn !! After watching your Very instructive video I was able to solve the saftey by pass & it fired right up ! I didn't have to bypass the carberator safety because I had Already done that !! Thank you Very much for your support through your Video Brother because I am going to pull the mower deck & use the old mower for towing my yard trailers that I have built to help move debris from my yard before mowing or to haul trash to the end of the driveway where my bulk trash container is located each Sunday night so it will be ready for the local trash pickup early on Monday mornings !!!!!
I have been working on this issue trying to track what sensor is faulty for 2 months thank you sir very much
Thank you! Trying to find a bad safety switch or break in the long line is way too hard.
I have waited a long time for some one to make a video like this. Thanks
HOORAY!!!!.....You just saved me countless hours of frustration and a lot of money....HOORAY..!!!
My 11-year-old Craftsman YT4000 had been not wanting to start on a regular basis for a while. Sometimes it would start immediately, and at other times, it wouldn't. I would pump the brake pedal a bunch of times and eventually it would start. But yesterday it quit entirely.
I found this video and you explained it so easily and simply....BRAVO....!! I just Jumper'd the start wire to the solenoid and that was all my situation needed....FANTASTIC.....!!!
A thousand thanks to you.....!!! You just earned a very grateful new subscriber...!!
Definitely one of the better dyi vids. Thanx a bunch.
Heck yeah! I got a Troy Built mower with multiple jancky safety switches. Pretty bad corrosion in the electrical, and I been chasing it forever. But when I jump the starter, it starts & runs like a champ. And turns off with the key. I'm thinking I might re-wire that unit. Guess I'll just need to keep in mind that I shouldn't jump off the running mower and throw myself underneath.
Thanks for the video. I have a 54" cub cadet zero turn. Wouldn't do anything when the key was turned. I bypassed the wire from the magnetos to the key switch. Now it starts and runs great. I believe it was the parking brake safety switch. However, the steering handles safety switches still work.
Thanks for this video! It helped me fix my riding lawnmower. Just in time for the mowing season where I live.
Good job Patriot. You make it simple and easy to understand. Thanks
Thanks for this, brother. 👏 I could tell right away most of the other videos were addressing a switch at a time. Or they were considering the solenoid but overlooking the magneto. You made it simple. 😉
I have a 2013 Craftsman YT-3000 by Husqvarna and can cut grass in reverse using the designated key switch position, I pinned the seat safety switch engaged years ago which was necessary for leaning while cutting along a 150 ft long section of a steep slope just above a concrete swail. I eventually had to use a roll pin on the brake pedal safety switch to always be engaged last year because I install solid removable leg shields around the edge of the floorboards for the winter that attaches to my winter cab set up and there is not enough travel clearance to push the pedal all the way down to engage the starter switch. Your way looks to be pretty good because you can still bypass everything and don't have to worry about one of the switches going bad and having to troubleshoot them all to find the problem.
Hi - great video and I by-passed the safety switches by cutting white wire to main key switch and connecting to the white solenoid terminal - engine then cranked but would not start. Then cut wire from M connector main key switch and spliced into wire just before magneto - engine cranks but still will not start - any ideas please -I'm determined to get there in the end!!
All sorted and I should have thought more first - if there are 2 wires going into the M socket only cut the black one; Mower/tractor working well now -Thanks balkanvt
I am wondering about video at 6.40 into video. Can you simply remove the white wire connected to the solenoid and then run a short red wire across the 2 posts on the solenoid to have an always on situation? Also to quickly troubleshoot no spark at sparkplug can you run say a red wire from battery directly to the post on the starter? I am wondering what the best way to make sure no safety stuff is preventing no spark at spark plug? I am trying to see if the ignition coil is damaged and the quickest way to get all safety stuff out of the loop. I should have mentioned this. The engine does crank using carb fluid going into carb intake and the flywheel spins but engine refuses to start even for a few seconds.
First and second question is "no" because both scenarios will give constant power to the starter - the equivalent of turning the key to start your car but you never let go of the key. Also, for the 2nd question, starter needs more amperage than a small wire can handle, which is why there are thick wires with a solenoid and a small wire controls the solenoid (think of a simple on/off relay).
As for your no-spark situation, your magneto (ignition module) is the only thing making spark. It does so via magnets to "posts" on the flywheel - as those flywheel magnets turn past the magneto, they make power, magneto sends it down to the sparkplug. 1) check spacing between magneto and flywheel magnet, can't be touching but has to be close. 2) if that's not it, bypass the magneto (4:40 in video) next cos that's free. 3) if still no spark, buy a new magneto, they're only about $25 on amazon and very simple to replace.
@@balkanvt Thanks for the reply. I was trying to figure out if the spark plug tip was sparking and it is. No messing with safety features other than placing riding mower in Park. Yesterday the only thing I know was with carb fluid sprayed into the carb the engine refused to even slightly start. So now after doing the correct spark plug test ( there is spark ) now I have to go back to figuring out why it will not even slightly start. I checked the piston travel from TDC with long skewer and it seems like no broken connection rod. The push rods seem perfect the valve clearance is fine the rockers are perfect. Will be going back to testing, "why the engine will not slightly start" when using carb cleaner intake method
@@jimfCarb cleaner usually kills an engine for me.. Have you tried Ether/Starting fluid instead?
@@user-bn3zo3mh5v Actually I found it was something else entirely. But thanks for getting back to me.
Thanks for the video! I'm bypassing the safeties because my Husq/Kawa riding mower will not run. They are overly complicated IMO. I have a compact backhoe/frontloader that is far more "dangerous" than a mower, and it has a simple ignition key: stop, run and start. I wish that my getting-older mower was that simple and intend to make it that way. Question: is the magneto wire you mention that goes behind the starter, the same one that runs to (both) coils on my Kawa 15 hp 2-cylinder engine? PS Doesn't appear that my carb has a fuel solenoid? Of course it has the starter one with 2 small posts (+the two large ones), the positive side has 2 wires in and neg side, one wire out. Any suggestions on that? Would you recommend wiring an inline car-style fuse into the new + wire between the ig. key and the solenoid? With these hacks, does your battery still charge while running the engine?
Hi, Thank you so much for this. I did it to my Poulan which looks just like yours inside. Anyway, the starter motor would run if I bypassed the solinoid, So have plenty of battery power. My meter shows over 13volts. But doing that with it in the run position with my new ignition key switch, doesn't fire up. Noticed the white wire to the solinoid when in start position, shouldn't that have voltage on it as well? When key turned to start? Well, it doesn't and seems I still don't have the voltage to everything. Is there something I'm missing? Thank you
Probably missing something... no clue what that brand's wiring is like, might be different colors and layout even tho it looks the same
If it is all the same, could be bad carburetor... you can rebuild, clean, or buy new from amazon for under $30
Ahhh, was a wire broke loose in the fuse holder that goes to the ignition switch. Slapped a wire nut on them and tah dah. And thank you for your input.
@@balkanvt
Awesome man I'm beating my head against the wall trying to fix my John deer hydro and hopefully now I can get it runnin. Thank you
I done the same thing u said to do and my mower started up thanks for the good news .
I think I watched 172 videos on this and all were convoluted. This was the best one. There's two wires on the M terminal though. Which one do you cut? If you cut one that goes to the magneto isn't jumping it like the same thing?
I have the same question man
What if I splice in the wire without cutting the two wires completely? Will it work or do i HAVE to fully cut the wire to run this shortcut properly?
Splicing should work as well in theory as a bypass for "dumb" safety switches...if they're some sort of modern sensors tho, it might create some weird feedback. Either way, i prefer cutting because it isolates the circuit completely...hot circuits from both ends could cause shorts if something is malfunctioning - that's either a fire hazard or drains your battery quickly
I'd buy you a beer if I could, the solenoid bypass worked on a Husqvarna, I appreciate it!
I have no problem with the safeties on my Troy Bilt riding mower with the exception of the seat switch; I disabled it by simply disconnecting one of the wire connectors at the switch below the seat. However, last week I just connected both of those yellow/blk wires thus completely bypassing the seat switch. Now, with the blades PTO OFF, the engine wants to shut down when I put it into reverse gear. Is that a coincidence, or did I just see an example of "the law of unintended consequences?". Interestingly, my mower DOES have button that disables the "turn the engine off when reverse gear is engaged" safety, and if I activate that button, I am able to reverse with the PTO off. Suggestions??
This video saved my ass I'm working on a craftsman dls3500 for a old guy that just wants to use it as a beater for the tougher spots on his property so safety switches are no concern for him so I just bypassed the silanoid
Tried that on my husqvarna ct151, and still dies when I try to start the blades. Did not do the solenoid
Love your replies to all the “Karen’s”!
Do you do both…magneto & solenoid bypasses, or one or the other?
Thanks in advance.
on the key switch the magneto has 2 wires coming off it, does it make a difference which one I splice, or do I need to cut them both? Same with the connector at the bottom, should I cut them both or try to figure out which is the right wire?
Exactly what I needed, perfect video
I did the solenoid but it still won't turn over unless I cross the posts on the solenoid and it'll fire right up, I'm thinking ignition switch now, any suggestions, tha ks
Dude, I could kiss you on the mouth. Thank you for the video and thank you for not being a long-winded blabbermouth. Bypassing the solenoid was the way to go for me and it took 3 minutes. This is how to convey helpful information.
That's one hell of a statement 😂
I have an Ariens about the same age as this. I do not know what wire to take the M wire to under the starter. There are 2 sets of wires there with 2 wires each. One is Black and the other wire gray. The other pair is a black wire with a red wire. The 2 pairs go behind the starter. Which one should I attach the M wire to? I jumped the white S wire directly to the solenoid and that did nothing so I assume that my safety switches are good.
Good info help me get to mowing again thanks
I've been a small engine repairman for 50 years now. I will tell you how to safely wire a riding mower.
1) You have to have a battery, a key switch, a carburetor with the fuel cutoff solenoid, electric starter, foot clutch switch, mower deck switch.
2) Check your key switch by hooking a small 12v battery to the B spade. Turn it to run position and look for the pin or pins that are hot now and mark them. Then turn it to the start position and look for and mark that pin. Also go back and check the ones that were hot in run - did they stay hot in the start position or not ? If you find on that is hot both times THAT'S THE ONE YOU WANT.
3) If you don't have any like that then you will have to buy a single husky rectifier diode. It will have to go from the start pin to a run pin to make yourself a pin that is hot in both start and run.
4) The rest is very easy. The juice from the real starter pin goes through the foot clutch switch, then the mower deck switch then to the starter relay. It is obvious the engine can only be cranked when the mower is disengaged and the foot clutch is held down and the key twisted to start.
5) Your original or self-made "hot in both start and run position" pin goes straight to the carb cutoff solenoid.
6) Delete any wires to/from the magneto.
7) Nearly all generator voltage regulator +12 wires can go straight to the battery. The only exception is Briggs and Stratton regulators which have to be disconnected from the battery with the engine off or it will drain the battery. IF you have another pin that is hot only in run position (usually marked "A" for Accessory) that is not used for anything else you can connect a BS regulator +12 pin to that pin.
7B) If for some reason you don't a separate "hot in run only" pin AND you have a BS voltage reg you will have to buy a "cube relay" at the auto parts (headlights, air conditioner clutches and horns use them) and it will have to be powered "closed" with the same wire to carb solenoid. then of the two pins closed together the reg +12 will go to one side and the other will go to straight to the battery.
8) If you have headlights just put them on a sepeaate switch to the battery.
DONE!!!
You're welcome !
Fantastic info and absolutely universal!
I'm understanding most of what you said. You don't mention the starter solenoid. Any reason? Also, when you say the "juice goes to...foot clutch switch...mower deck switch...starter relay -- is this something you redo, or is there a wire that does this? Also, my Kawa 15 hp FH430V does not have a solenoid on the carb. What then?
@@TimothyJamesDean 1) "Starter Solenoid" correctly means the electromechanical part that jerks a sliding starter pinion gear into mesh with the flywheel before the starter motor is switched on. That part first moves the gear and when it's almost done moving it last thing it closes contacts inside it to power up the motor. Some people refer to the husky remote-relay on the fender/firewall of old Ford vehicles as solenoids - but it's not correct. UBER-correctness demands I tell you the word "solenoid" just means a coiled wire that when powered creates an concentrated magnetic field. In the real world we call that simply "a coil" if it's intended to make sparks for the (battery-type) ignition.
If it is part of a relay-switch we call those the "control windings" that move the contactors either open or closed.
That way we save the word "solenoid" for the name of ACTUATORS. They usually use a rod or arm to move something when powered on.
Note - not all small engine starters are automotive-style "shifter starters" - some just use a "Bendix" (a coarse spiral threaded motor shaft - and the inside of the pinion gear is the matching "nut") to move the gear into and out of engagement when the motor is powered on and off.
Most OEMs use juice from the key switch to power the solenoid in a shifter starter. When it hits the end of it's travel it forces a copper bar to slam down across two copper bolt heads. One bolt head has a fat cable straight from +12V on it - the other bolt head has a nice strong flexible braided copper cable that goes to one of the carbon brushes riding on the segmented armature (the other brush is permanently connected to ground aka "zero volts")
Myself I find it more reliable (on lawn and garden equipment) to have the start pin of a keyswitch just power the control windings of a cube relay.
The cube relay also has full-time +12V off the battery supplied to it. That way the start pin only has to power the control windings of a cube relay and then the cube relay's contacts do the job of energizing the big actuator (the solenoid) inside the starter.
If you have a Bendix-style starter - it's motor needs something bigger than a cube relay to power it. (strongest I ever saw was rated 40 amps).
They make and sell small engine starter-relays that are rated 70 amps, max. They are junk and of shitty quality unless you get a Honda starter relay. I know guys who call these medium size start-relays "solenoids" but they are not. If you are at a garage sale and get a Ford Heavy Duty Starter relay those dogs go from 200 to 500 amps. (Everybody and their brother calls those things "solenoids" because they just don't know-no-better.)
2) You couldl buy an E-bay made-in-China carburetor that is an exact fit for your engine except it has a fuel-control solenoid for dirt cheap.
Rope start engines hardly ever have fuel control solenoids (itty bitty Honda gas engine 120V generators [technically those are "alternators"] are rope started and then charge up a capacitor. When those units are switched off the cap powers the fuel solenoid to CLOSE the Main Jet) so it's odd that your electric start FH430 doesn't have one. You could also just buy a solenoid from Kawasaki or Ebay, hold the bowl of your carb tightly in place while you remove the bowl-retention special short brass bolt and replace it with a fuel control solenoid.
@@TimothyJamesDean The assumptions I made when describing a Safe Riding Lawnmower Wiring Scheme are that it has a foot clutch with a safety switch that closes when the wheel drive clutch is released (pedal held down), a separate safety switch that is closed when the mower clutch is out of gear, a Bendix Style Starter and a dedicated Start Relay, had a fuel control solenoid that must be powered on to open the carburetor main jet, that almost literally all wires (save for the ones you can see are already connected to stuff you are going to need) have been removed from the unit.
The system I described should be written in words down on a piece of paper. Next make a drawing with a 12V line across it up high and a 0V line across the bottom. Put the battery on the left and (this can all be crude - you're the only one going to read it!) and next put the keyswitch and connect it's B+ up high (12V) and show it's start pin connected so as to power the control windings of a 70 amp start relay. ( of which some use a separate control winding ground connection - some just use the mounting screws for that)
Next to that put the Start Relay. Connect the positive to either one of it's big terminals. Power it's control windings with the K switch's start pin.
Next show the starter motor itself. It gets connected to the other big relay terminal, and they always use the mounting bolts for a ground 0volts.
There you go - there is the cranking system. It should crank when you twist the key.
On your drawing - move the Start relay over to the right a little - and insert the Mower Safety Switch and the Foot Clutch Safety switch into the wire. Both should be 2-wire connected. Makes no difference which order or direction the 12V is going through the switches.
Now wire the machine that way verify it will only crank when both clutches are thrown out.
What this does is get the "Big Power" -the cranking system - done first.
Just using the Fuel Control Solenoid and never interrupting the sparks is a huge simplification both on paper and in how many wires are needed to run the machine.
And lucky you - just run your Kawa's voltage regulator B+ direct to the battery. Real world it's easiest to put it on the other end of the battery cable at the Start Relay.
@@patrickshaw8595 bruh.
How do you recognize a magneto on a Cub Cadet MM 30 Hydrostatic 30 Riding Mower? Sometimes when I turn the key it does absolutely nothing, no sound at all, even though it has a brand new battery, very frustrating
what if there’s 2 wires coming from magneto on switch
You did a great favor to me. My mower now runs again
I'm taking the 11hp out of my 1981 Mogomery Wards mower and putting a 1998 20hp twin craftsman motor in it so this should me how to bypass those switches since I will have to bypass them when I swap
Husq 4219 briggs engine 31p677 same switch style. Brown goes to safetys, green hops to white goes to engine
Very good teaching video👍👍👍
I have the same mower, Whatcom looking to do is to be able to get off the mower and empty my leaf bags without the mower shutting off . How do you disconnect the safety switch on the seat? Thanks for any help
You can bypass just the seat switch by removing it and jumping its wires, or you can do the magneto hack I've shown in the video - that will bypass all the safeties that cause the mower to shut off after it's already running.
Alternatively, look through all the comments on here for Patrick Shaw, he outlined another clean hack how to eliminate all safeties.
My mower, 2005 model Poulan, if you lock the brake you can get off while it's running. Handy for me because I have horses and sometimes have to go through 2 different gates to get where I'm going.
So you just run a wire to the selenoide?
Does the fuel solenoid still work this way ? Or do u cut off plunger in the carb ?
Carb is mechanical, not affected by wiring
Thanks, that just what I have been looking for.
Probably a dumb question but why can't you just disconnect the kill switch from the magneto?
Disconnecting is same as a tripped safety switch - open circuit shuts off magneto. Magneto delivers energy to the spark plug. You want uninterrupted closed circuit to stay running.
@@balkanvt I see... Thanks!
tie wrap all of safety wisher switches closed circuit will never open. Just be careful and make sure they’re secure. That’s all you gotta do.
If I run a hot wire directly into the starter, it turns over so the starter is good. I put a new solenoid on it.
I have and old Walker mower with no serial number on it, I replace the switch but don't know how the wiring goes and can't find the diagram, can someone please help me?
So the magneto always goes to the motor?
I believe some Switches marked S is for starter
So I did this replaced the battery, starter, starter switch and solenoid and still nothing. What do you think is up
You probably have a open ground on one of your safety switches disconnect the trigger wire from start solenoid, test if you’re getting 12 V, all of your safety switches are working with continuity. You may want to check your ignition switch itself. Make sure it’s not corroded and connected good.
Check fuses and relays especially the main fuse usually a 30 amp coming off here (Main) whining harness from control panel
il tuo video mi da speranza, ho fatto un cablaggio andando a tentoni usando un interruttore della luce dalla batteria al motorino d' avviamento, che funziona, ma è dannatamente pericoloso, domani provero il tuo sistema alla faccia di chi parla male del tuo aiuto, grazie per i consigli
ok so u cut the magneto wire at switch and reconnect it to wire coming off magneto. i understand that but the white wire coming from solenoid what are u connecting it back to?
Same as the magneto....straight shot from the solenoid up to the S (solenoid) pin at the switch
@@balkanvt ok hope it works with i got the kohler
ok hit another road block my coil/magneto has like four wires in a plug coming off top an two coming from the side with spade connectors all whites reds and blacks so which magneto wire do i pick
@@803dj5 magneto or coil? Coil would have multiples, but I don't know why a magneto would have 6 wires...it's literally just a self-contained generator that sends voltage to the spark plug. The 2 connected wires are there to cut off the spark
Your red black and white thats to your rectifier on up once you take off your engine cover you'll see the coil that has the thick spark plug wire on it from there you'll see 1 or 2 or 3 other wires on the coil usually they are white and black disconnect the white one sometimes they have it reversed to were you'd have to leave the white on and disconnect the black wire
One of them is your on off wire
You are NO 1 thank you so much
thank you for your help
Great video, Thanks.
In my yard, I need to back up several times with the blades running. I cannot imagine why you would need to disable the blades to back up. What a dangerous idea. My early 90s mtd deck raising lever takes a lot of effort to pull back up, imagine doing that every reverse. Fortunately my seat safety is disabled so I can get on and off the seat while the deck is running. I will be keeping my older mowers going as long as possible.
The engine dies in reverse because a few geniuses ran over their kids. Now we all must suffer because of beer drinking hillbillies! Yeah I said it!! LOL
The reason is so you don't backup into a small child and with the blades engaged.
@@SpicyTexan64 Only morons do this. Don't drink and mow! 😂
You have to be 3 inches high to get run over by a fucking lawnmower blade like the ones in honey I shrunk the kids movie
, if you ain’t got enough sense to be able to mow grass without running over your kids with a frigging lawnmower, you ain’t got no business on lawnmower in the first place or driving a car I’ll try to ride a bicycle or one of those freaking scooters I see everywhereand driving around town with foot Power like Fred Flintstone
My mower is nearly identical to the one you have in the video. I bypassed both and now it dies when I try to engage the deck. The main reason I wanted to bypass is the seat safety and i want to mow in reverse.
I zip tied the safety switch for the blade engage lever, under the dash. Now it all works as it should. Thank you for a great video.
Right to the point!
I'll be driving dangerously once I cut them ambilical cords to hell!! I can handle the basic stuff, but busting my A$$ over stuff other than perhaps the seat shut off, Im done! I'll let you know how it went.... .. . Thanks in advance.❤.
Update:
Used Wagos to splice stuff together for now. ( So convenient) Got it going, but on mine it looks as if I need a temporary disconnect button to the magnito to shut off! Ill place that on the dash somewhere. Took me about 20min. Once I had a map and the stuff ❣️
Very helpful thank you
Thanks for the information
i have a old snapper runs good but when i let the cluch out it dies
help
Bypassing all the magneto safeties should take care of that if it idles fine otherwise
Skip to 4:40 if you want to skip past all the talking and get straight to the part you came here for. Everything before is just explaining what the safety switches are and it’s not needed for the average watcher.
How many entire videos did you skip looking for a solution before landing at my 440 mark there, average Karen? You deserve a cookie for sticking it out anyway, I'm proud of you.
My mower did not start when I word it up like that didn't do nothing not even a click
But they are not switches they're buttons that get pressed in a switch gets flipped on or off long as you can push the button down its a button but i know you guys mean when you call them switches
Try again...the correct term is "safety switch" regardless of the way they engage...a safety button is a radiation indicator medallion. It is also used for a plethora of other things including physical and digital push buttons, NONE of which are electrical safety switches. It's a technical term, not a semantic.
You’re right and another shocking truth most people don’t realize as some of those safety switches don’t allow the ancient to chronic and some are all connected together and simply shut it off like PDO to foot break. You have to study the schematic for your mower or you could be heading into a Pandora box with, your new engineered and customized wiring overhaul
i have 26 hp kohler craftman and it didnt work can you tell me what i doing wrong thanks
Your coils may be bad causing the engine not to fire. They go bad with time. I have a 25 hp Kohler that did this.
Make sure you have the correct pin(s) on the ignition switch for your model. If it still won't fire but turns over fine, I'd check fuel line, spark plug, plug wire, or coil next...that's really all that's left
@@balkanvt Could be a fuel solenoid shutoff sticking.
Theres a easier way of doing it without cutting the ignition switch wires well it is on older John deere and older craftsmen mower's.
Did your mower work fine before trying any of these tests
Disconnect your fuel, solenoid, wiring, hunters just pull it out lay it to the side install a fuel cut off valve on your fuel line between the tank and the carburetor shut it off every time you’re ready to stop mowing you can even run the carburetor dry if you want, it will keep it from gunkingand you have a new drain port for your fuel just do away with it
Exelent! Well done.
Thanks! Good to know I can finally bypass all those switches. I have done a few, but I don't really need any of them. Those "safety" switches are just to babysit the punks who have no common sense. My old tractor didn't have any and my new will finally no have them either!
Thanks Cheers
Some of these safety are there to protect you and others. Other than testing it's best to keep that in mind especially if you have children around and if they are the ones mowing your lawn. Getting off your mower with the blades running and backing up without looking and mowing on hills these are major concerns even for adults.
Thanks for that, Karen. Maybe simply skip the next video you disagree with? Cos i guarantee you anyone searching for a video on how to bypass safeties gives exactly zero F's about any of your verbal diarrhea there ✌️ you're free to run all your safeties, let the other responsible adults with common sense do their own thing
Man u r a genius
Ask my coworker about bypassing the seat safety switch. Saved his life when he rolled mower over on a hill.
Good for him 👏 maybe he should also invest in training wheels, roll cage, and a 5pt safety harness. Never get on your mower without a SFI fire suit and helmet either just in case!
He must’ve been drunk.
new motto --if you ( caint fix it just disconect it ) LOL
"Work smarter, not harder" is also a good one
Make sure you twist the black wires together and cut the white ones except the one coming out from the coil most mowers are different so you may have 2 or 3 wires on your coil
But on john deere mower's you cut an skin the rubber and twist they have 5 safety buttons they're white wires are ground wires
You can do away with the fuse to if you'd like to i did
That will work
Thank you ☺️
I'm looking to get rid of all the wiring i dont need. Just gut it !
Thank you.
It would of been nice to see it start
Perfect 👌
Thank you so much !!!
Great!
Appreciate that info
I’m subbed
I've just done both wires and no change, i hate mowers.
Thanks for video but it took 4 minutes to get to the tip
That's called foreplay lol
@@balkanvt 🤣 so the wire from the M terminal goes to the coil?
It’s just that simple folks
15 minutes + ,......more like 15 months + for me which is why I have almost given up. All mine does is die when I try to put it into gear. 🥴
To skip all the safety bullshit 2:30
A half ass explanation,,what about the pto wiring..Now no mowing, this disables pto clutch. Eisenstein.
Mechanical cable-operated PTO genius....don't quit your day job 😂🖕🏼
I did both of these and still get no power! Brand new battery brand new solenoid. Starter works. Hdhehejdnjdjdjdhdhdhrhdjdjhrhdbdbdbdbdh
Those switches were put there to keep you safety.
@jamesgeorge1709 sooo why are you looking at videos on how to remove them then?
Not 😮😮😊😢🎉
Stupid is as stupid does.
As soon as you disabled a safety your tractor needs to go in RED tag mode.
If you still have a tractor that's under warranty, you really shouldn't be googling how to disable safeties. Now continue minding your own business, wouldn't want you to go in red tag mode 🤣
people please don't hack up your wiring harness, just get someone that knows how to actually read a simple wiring diagram to fix it right for you. this is really stupid advice.
Take a long walk off a short pier bud...do you know how much a shop will charge to trace the entire harness for a break? Or even to just find which safety switch is bad and replace it when you have multiples in-line that can cause your mower to not run? I paid $400 for the mower, tested safety switches and didn't even consider spending hours looking for a break in the harness...let alone paying someone to do it for me. This is a PERMANENT fix, never have to worry about any of the safeties again. If you want to throw away your time and money on such mundane things, why even bother browsing these types of videos and commenting?
Get to the point!! Yak yak
Have a beer and be patient...or don't, I'm sure there are other videos you can search for an hour instead
Yours looks like a 5 speed transaxle transmission and has a gas pump