9 years later your video helps someone yet again. Only video that helped and I looked at all kinds of videos for the last two days trying different stuff and dumping into parts. Crazy enough my cubcadet 1320 hydro prehistoric mower with sentimental value I can still reverse drive forward my blades actually don't engage until I move my pulley lever luckily as applying pressure makes the belt spin. I followed you killswitch didn't work for me but.... the throttle did so thanks a lot I appreciate the video brother.
Of all the videos I have watched on riding lawnmowers, you are the first to explain the coil kill switch is used to ground the coil and kill the engine. Thank you very much! I had a fairly extensive electronics background on old IBM card equipment, but I didn’t know how small engines, electronics were supposed to work. This makes safety switches current usage understandable. Thanks again.
Same here he's good 💯 I just doing a wizard mower with a 20 HP motor that I put in so now with this video I know how thank you brother for the video God bless you 😅
Thanks for this video. You went into more detail especially when wiring the kill switch and starter solinoid. It is also very important to thank you for not cussing at all in your video. This is not an adult channel and its very much appreciated. It amazes me at the nasty mouthed people who just have to say something degrading . And for those who cuss, you dont get any thumbs up from me no matter how good your video is. And all the people I know that view UA-cam have this same policy, Thanks again for this helpful video.
I know this vid is old but thanks to you I was able to bypass everything on a old garden tractor I picked up for $20. It has no deck but had all the safety stuff still on it. And all the wiring was hacked up and wires wrong. You were able to show me how to rewire and have the motor crank over after being off for 20yrs. Thanks!!!
IM STOKED! Just about giving up on finding the information. And there this video is renewing my hope. (Four nights in a row I burnt the midnight oil, because it's too hot to work during the day here in Mississippi) out of money and most resources but I do have these simple items you suggest. I'm going to leave you a rave review if this works and share it everywhere. THANKS SO MUCH SIR.. FROM NORTH MISSISSIPPI
Finally! This is what I've been looking for! You cut all the crap out and showed me what is essential to make that thing go! It makes total sense to me. I just got a decent mower for free, but somebody has mangled up all the factory wiring and I can't figure out what is what. Now that I know the essentials, I can skip the spaghetti mess that came with the mower! And without buying a new wiring harness for $80.
@@MikeTyson2 yes, turns out I didn't have to do much. This video helped me understand what I was looking at, and realizing that it wasn't as bad as I thought. Just some loose connections. Though, I don't think I'm getting a good charge to the battery yet. I need to chase that problem down, but it's not a big deal. I get 30 to 40 starts out of one charge from my charger.
GREAT video sir, I just rewired my old Cub Cadet Hydro 1320 i put a bigger pulley on the engine and it runs real good, it's best to remove all the safety switches, weld up a better exhaust, jet the carby. I run LED lights 2 upfront 2 under the footrests 1 at the back and a 12V- 90amp truck battery up behind the seat, lights up well at night.
Finally somebody that shows how to wire the stater for charging. Everybody else seemed to have white an red wires but mine was black an purple like yours. I did the same wiring job on my murray because the dam safety switch's "idiot helpers" wouldn't let me start it.
you can get a wiring diagram on the net if you know your model # a lot of brands are wired alike craftsman has a very good diagram it explains every wire on it good info.
Hi Mate , I live In Sydney Australia Thanks so much for your clip I saved like $80 Aus , I done it my self , because no one wants to work here , lol I am going to pimp out my mower thanks again Steve
Brilliant. Thanks. Worked a treat. I have a carb solenoid and I found on another video you can remove fuel solenoid and grind off the spring pin in the centre. This will mean your fuel won’t cut off at shut down but I’m not racing or puddle jumping. I’m wondering if the alternator/generators on mowers give trouble
Thanks. I have a second riding mower that I am turning into something to ride on my property. I was happy to find when I used the first url you provided, I was able to print it out. This will be a great help.
I like these videos im not doing a push button but id like to replace the key with a separate light switch im pretty much making my craftsman like a utv but its also going to be a second source of transport when im done with it. Im upgrading to led headlights addeding taillights and a secondary power source for the lightsso its not running off the mower battery and light power not judged by the engine power. Im also planning on switching from a speed throttle to a pedal throttle and a pulley swap for more speed with less need to run the throttle high to get it a little more fuel efficient its a craftsman lt1000 with a 19.5hp i/c briggs and stratton opposed twin with a 4 screw nikki carb with no mowing deck.
How can I tell if I have a bad stator was starting with key and now key don't work gotta cross over the selenoid and headlights were working and now they dont... do you know what may be the problem
Stater is what charges the battery if you don't need to charge it it's not the stator it's a switch or wireing if your able to jump. It with the solenoid I would look at the key switch
The solenoid I had in my DR Mower was a 3-post. The starter switch, I think, went to the 3/8" battery post, I think, since it has a 3/8" ring terminal on it. I put a 4-post solenoid because I replaced my old b&s 12.5 hp motor with a 17.5 hp B&S motor with an alternator (regulated system) since the old one is unregulated. I'm not hearing any click at all. My battery is over 11V. Any ideas on what to check short of taking the solenoid back out and bench testing it?
You say you changed to a 4 post solenoid have you earthed it correctly. One of the two small posts should be live when you turn the key to start and the other has to be grounded to the chassis or battery for the solenoid to work.
Just defeated 2 safety switches on an old Toro Wheelhorse. All I did was find the switch and ran the wires together creating a loop. The one for the clutch safety were 2 red and one green wire. I tried a loop first with the 2 red wires. That didn't work. Next I tried using the green for a ground. Still nothing. Ended up by simply twisting all three together. The pto switch was just two wires, again just twisted them together. If you have small kids or grandkids, obviously don't do this and when you sell make sure the new owner is aware of what the situation is with the mower. If it works its a heck of a lot easier than this way, at least to me. And of course you try this at your own risk.
I have a 1999 Murray which has the red wire with diode and black AC output wire on motor side of connector. But on the harness side of connector, I have 3 wires, a white AC wire on one pin, a red DC wire and a gray wire connected together on the another pin. These wires separate with the gray wire feeding into another connector on the motor side thats runs to the carburetor solenoid. I know the red wire runs to the battery side of the solenoid, but what do I do with the white AC wire and the gray wire that would run to the carb? I read on the comments where you said to run one to the lights and if so, which one and what do I do with the 3rd one? Gray and white?
Does a snapper zero turn 33" has a fuse that goes to the battery?? I bought one and I was told it has to have one. I'm asking because it keeps killing my battery. When I buy a new one it takes like 2 weeks till it goes dead all the way or could it be the solinoid??
I respectfully suggest IF you need or want a BETTER quality solenoid switch that you get a automotive one, I used a automotive solenoid that's used on a 1965 Ford F100 truck. Many do not know these little mower solenoids are not truly waterproof, many are damaged by folks washing off their mowers etc. Compare YOUR ROOM where the lawn mower one fits to the Ford switch, the actual mount holes of my Ford switch MATCHED the hole pattern of the mower one, all I had to do is adapt wires to the switch, the cable terminals of the auto switch is larger.
If it has the fuel solenoid on the carb it's the same you can hook up the solenoid to 12+ thru a switch or just remove it cut grind remove the plunger that sticks out and cut the wire off and put it back
This is a very good tutorial for me, thank you, My Craftsman shut-down on me. I tested the 4 Pole Solenoid, i got power from the Battery, power to the White wire when the key is turned, but not power on the out wire the the starter. I bought a 3 pole and Cowboyd the original ground. When i turn the key a get a Clunk sound on the chassis, think its the Solenoid. I have have found 2 Safety Switches. Though my Solenoid test should tell me the Safe switch's are good.
I found the wires from the engine you show in the video but also have to thick yellow wires that look like they are hooked to a square box on the side of the engine. This is a B&S Vanguard v twin. Will the wiring work with it. Neighbor that had worked on mower before said he didn't think I had fuel solenoid. Wasn't sure what the thick yellow wires are. bought new ignition (7 prong) and solenoid. Engine will not crank with key. Will if I jump solenoid but still doesn't start. Even with key in on position. So I am thinking it is a safety switch. Out of work so 40$ in and still not starting. Don't have money to chase problem by buying parts. Have a troybilt mower I can steal wires off of to rewire it. Before I take out all the original wiring in the Yard Machine I am working on I wanted to find out about the big yellow wires. Are they to a regulator? Someone suggested they are. I also was not clear on the second wire you said could be hooked to the headlights off the bottom of the engine? One to the solenoid and the other....is it needed for anything. The one with the nodules you called it.
i havent actually messed with to many twins yet but this guy >>> ua-cam.com/users/1darron1 had done lost more than i have he probbaly be able to tell ya what the wires are i think they are from the regulator but you can try to disconnect the switches one by one most have to be closed to work and take a wire and jump the connectors to find out what one is bad
i have 2 wires comeing from under flywheel red black black goes to ground red wire goes to a conater a wire goes to key switch other red wire goes to the bottom of solenloid have another wire goes from big post of solleniod to a fuse to key switch is this right ?
ok well i have two questions my positive wire on my stator does not have a diode in it can i still hook it up with out one and n the bottom of my carb there are two wires coming off the bottom of wich i think is an electric chock how do i hook it up or by pass it. its a 14.5 ohv Briggs and Straton. and the engine come off another lawn mower so the wires on this one are not the same
GREAT VIDEO, I NEED HELP!! I HAVE NO SPARK AFTER I CHANGED THE COIL BUT I ALSO ATTACHED MY STATOR WIRE TO THE SWITCH PART OF THE SOLENOID. AND NOT SPLICED INTO THE BATTERY TERMINAL.. COULD THAT BE WHY??
The black wire from the coil has to go to a switch to ground that's what actually makes the engine stop the stator wire if you send it straight to the battery use a fuse if and a diode it will back feed and kill the battery or just use a switch if you have a two wire stator one side is 12 volts the other side is normally less and used for headlights
@@ibdalovely1 I finally got my mower going!! It turns out the coil I bought wasn't the right one. So I ordered the right one on Amazon and it fired up right away when I got my spark. I noticed in your video you didn't wire in any fuse to the circuit? Is it not necessary? Are the fuses originally there only to protect all the safely switches and igintion?
Great clip. Almost there fitting the wiring using a pre-used loom I bought and using your direction. I am a bit stuck on the following though and was wondering if anyone can help please? I have a single red wire coming down from the alternator. I also have a red wire and a red/white wire on the loom. Do I just join red to red? What is the red/ white wire for? I do not have headlights on my mower. It is a Westwood S1000. Thanking you
if it only has 1 wire and not 2 from the stator it needs to go the positive on the battery or to the solenoid as long as its on the positive side thats what keeps the battery charged look to see where the the red and red/wht goes to on the other en sounds like the harness is for a 2 wire and the engine is a 1 ni big deal though but on the 2 wire the one is for the lights and one is for the battery
+jesse hureta, my friend, check to see if the magneto (altenator) is pluged up, its 2 wires mostly red and black, some times white /yellow and black, thr red one should have a diode ( tiny little barrell looking thingy, that is what runs your lights and recharges ur bat, if its not that, you have a grounding prob draining your bat goodluck and i hope its a simple fix for u cause i hate working on the elect
I honestly never did post the video of that one you can just cut the plunger off and just ignore it it's more a safety feature if you really want it just needs 12v positive to work and I always put a fuel shutoff valve makes it easier to drain the tank for winter
Hello, my solenoid has 2 spade commenters at the bottom and, in this video yours only has one at the bottom and 2 at top. Can I do this same exact wiring with my variation of a solenoid. Once again my solenoid has the 2 bolts at the top and has 2 spade commenters at bottom
Very useful video, thank you. I've been searching for this kind of information for too long and nobody, not even manufacturers, seem to want to provide it. I still have a question you might have some insight on: What about a rectifier/regulator in the charging circuit? Does the solenoid also provide this function (AC to DC/voltage control)? I recently acquired a B&S Powerbuilt 12.5hp elec start engine with charging system that came out of an unknown lawn tractor and am trying to figure out the proper way to wire up the charging system.
can I run the wire that charges the battery directly to the hot side of the battery, too keep the battery charged or would that create a problem or is their another way I can charge the battery. I'm hooking up a kill switch and a push start from the solenoid. The question is can I do this???
You can get a keyed switch to replace the button they can be as simple as 2 wires or if your trying the oem key switch you will need to find the starter wires out of the switch or find a complete harness and replace it but you will have to make sure the safety sensors are all good it's usually why people put a button them
I tried several other simpler how-to rewiring videos (replace one solenoid wire + coil kill switch etc.) but, while my 15 hp twin Kawasaki engine would run fine, as soon as I went to put it in gear or start the mower deck, the engine would die. Finally I did it your way -- cut all the wires (gulp) and started from scratch. It works fine now and runs, cuts forward and back. BUT 2 things you didn't explain and with my limited mechanical knowledge, I messed up. 1) MOST IMPORTANT: I guess I cut off the wires to and from the voltage regulator as well and now my battery does not recharge, so I have a dead battery after every use. Any chance you can explain what wires have to go to the regulator, and how to rewire the hot wire to the + side of the battery? 2) and no longer so important to me because I did it, but IF you have a mower deck, it's important to rewire the PTO (mower deck on/off) using either a new switch, or existing switch but using only the back 2 terminals. From the PTO clutch there are 2 wires, one permanent ground, the other positive, which goes to and from the on/off switch (so it interrupts the positive flow). Here's the best explanation for that that I found ua-cam.com/video/W1ZZrkbIxzQ/v-deo.html
I will try it. I pulled a 20hp kohler off my ranchking (trashed steering gears) and put it on my Lt 1000. The kohler is supposedly fuel injected. I will figure it out. Good video bro. Peace
Hi mate, what is the most basic wiring system for my mower to run? Im going to use a key start as my kill switch and i have pull start and no fuel solenoid on carby
It's just basic cheap wire from the parts store if the original wire harness is still on the mower you can use the wire from that just take the black tape and protection off and use the wires you need
My dynamark makes spark when I push the button down I got the red connected to the push button and the black connected to the push button any ideas why it sparks won't turn over at all
Some have that wire some dont if you run it to your lights one side of the bulb will go to ground the other to that wire if not just tape it up and ignore it
Would you be able to briefly explain about the fuel solenoid wire? E.G. do you hook it up similar to the coil and just splice it in different? Couldn’t find the video you said you’d do on it. Thank you
i didnt do a vid i kinda got got out of youtube and havent really made more vids im sorry but yea it just needs a positive voltage from somewhere but thrue a switch so you can turn it off or just pull the soleniod and cut the plunger off the inside and no wiring needed its more safety than anything
Depending on which stator you have 1 or 2 wire if it's 1 it goes to the battery positive if it's 2 you need to see which makes 12+volts as it runs some just take both and run them to the battery positive the lower voltage wire is supposed to go to the lights it only makes 6-10 volts
yep but i think that insted of the bolt that holds it to the frame one of the connectors goes to ground ive got one like you describe and ended up swapping it for the style i have in the vid because i did not know that it needed to be grounded
if it has 2 spade connectors one is your ground, you need to hook a ground wire to it and ground it to the frame. those type do not ground through the frame mount like the one in this video.
Heres a problem. I gutted the wire harness and rewired omitting safety switch. Have three pole solinoid. I have check everything several times. When i power the 12v to trip the solinoid to engagé the starter there is only a klicking. Two good batterie. I even connected them in parallel. Still not working. Maybe battery cables? They where also checked voltage threw positive at 13v.. I tride with push button and switch. Still same problem. I can jump the hot terminals on solinoid and starter spins the motor. Tip. You can reuse your key by poking a pointed object in the side grove in the plug. Then rewire and insert the correct wire back into the plug and plug back onto your key.
I got a snapper , it caught fire [ small fire ] burned some insulation off wires, now I get no volts to the starter, I tried jumping straight from battery to the starter, engine tries to crank but wont keep cranking, battery is fully charged , question is why wont it crank by jumping straight from the battery, help.
Jim Lovejoy it should but if the grounding is bad it might not but if im trying to "test" a engine starting with bad wiring i use jumper cables 1 grounded to the block and the other to the starter another q is it a ohv briggs engine
black wire from coil to a 2 wire switch other side gets grounded i have no spark but did before i rewired it this way dont understand im sure coil just didnt go bad
Thanks dude for some no BS information,you need to make more videos.i would definitely share and like them.if you know how to do the same thing to a vtwin Honda gx620 let me know .
is that a old mtd mower?...i have one just like that from what i see...i need to rebuild it someday...does yours have a motorcycle type battery that sits by the gear shift?..i hate that i want to rig it to use a regular riding mower battery somewhere besides by the gear shift,but i cant find anywhere that would have room to set a regular battery on
Tim Spur check out my channel I have mine under my hood and mine identical to this one so I'm guessing yours to butttt I don't have any headlights hooked up
jose tavares thanks for letting me know that people still care enough to take the time to point out a common mistake I'm really sorry that I made you take this moment out of your time to explain that you think your funny and that you need to put the electronic brainwasher down and get a tan Oh and have a nice day
Can u help me bypass the safety switch to the clutch? I want to keep the pto and seat safeties in tact. The clutch safety keeps going out and I'm tired of replacing it. Thanks in advance.
Travis Pike ive took a jumper wire testing them and connected the terminals on the harness on the mower together and that deletes them from the circuit
IBDALOVELY1 what do you mean connected them to the terminals? I have got it apart and have the wire that runs from the solenoid to the pto to the clutch safety. Do I just wire it onto the solenoid or somewhere else? This might have been a lil over my head but I'm in it now.lol
connect the battery red cable to eather big post conn.the starter big red cable to the other big post then conn the white wire to one of the small post the other (black ) wire to the other small post done when you turn key to start you send 12v to white wire on the small post this is thru brake pedal depressed this operates the soleonoid conn the two big red wires togeather inside the solenoid which conn the 12battery straight to the starter
When did you do the video where you rewired the other mower? Did it have the saftey switches on it? Went from a 3 post solenoid to a 4. Do I have to have anything on the 4th post? And where would it come from?
if it is not marked + or - it does not matter it is just a coil to activate the magnet that closes the contacts. the only time it matters is if it has a diode preinstalled to cut down on chatter. if it does, the prongs will be marked OR the diode will be visible 1 side will go to chassis and the other the the switch
Thank you for simplifying this mess! I just need this crapped out old Murray to last a little longer till I get a new one. Just the info I was looking for!
did you make make the other video that parallels this one? The one for wiring a riding mower with electric wired cards? i need some pointers. i liked this video. you are a good teacher and easy to follow along with.
Is there anyway you can tell me how to run my fuel cut off switch to a toggle switch... I put a motor on it that didn't have that So I don't know what or how to hook it up
It needs a positive voltage it take it out and clip the plunger off the inside and then you don't need to hook anything up it's more of a safety thing but if you need it hooked up just loop 12v from wherevers convent thrue a switch and then to the solenoid it should open if you hide the switch it won't run without it
@@ibdalovely1 so if I run it to a toggle switch just make both sides positive and leave it on...loop a power wire from both sides of a toggle switch and back to the selenoid... if so the one with the battery wire going to it or the other side
@@leemullins1435 so it you take 12+ from the battery or whearever to one side of a toggle then the other side of that toggle should go to the solenoid on the carb with this it will not start for long without the switch in the on position thing is it will run your battery down if it gets left on between weekly mows make a note close to the key and switch to turn it off with a paint marker
9 years later your video helps someone yet again. Only video that helped and I looked at all kinds of videos for the last two days trying different stuff and dumping into parts. Crazy enough my cubcadet 1320 hydro prehistoric mower with sentimental value I can still reverse drive forward my blades actually don't engage until I move my pulley lever luckily as applying pressure makes the belt spin. I followed you killswitch didn't work for me but.... the throttle did so thanks a lot I appreciate the video brother.
Of all the videos I have watched on riding lawnmowers, you are the first to explain the coil kill switch is used to ground the coil and kill the engine. Thank you very much! I had a fairly extensive electronics background on old IBM card equipment, but I didn’t know how small engines, electronics were supposed to work. This makes safety switches current usage understandable. Thanks again.
Same here he's good 💯 I just doing a wizard mower with a 20 HP motor that I put in so now with this video I know how thank you brother for the video God bless you 😅
Thanks for your help
Thanks for this video. You went into more detail especially when wiring the kill switch and starter solinoid. It is also very important to thank you for not cussing at all in your video. This is not an adult channel and its very much appreciated. It amazes me at the nasty mouthed people who just have to say something degrading . And for those who cuss, you dont get any thumbs up from me no matter how good your video is. And all the people I know that view UA-cam have this same policy, Thanks again for this helpful video.
I know this vid is old but thanks to you I was able to bypass everything on a old garden tractor I picked up for $20. It has no deck but had all the safety stuff still on it. And all the wiring was hacked up and wires wrong. You were able to show me how to rewire and have the motor crank over after being off for 20yrs. Thanks!!!
Excellent
IM STOKED! Just about giving up on finding the information.
And there this video is renewing my hope.
(Four nights in a row I burnt the midnight oil, because it's too hot to work during the day here in Mississippi) out of money and most resources but I do have these simple items you suggest. I'm going to leave you a rave review if this works and share it everywhere. THANKS SO MUCH SIR..
FROM NORTH MISSISSIPPI
Finally! This is what I've been looking for! You cut all the crap out and showed me what is essential to make that thing go! It makes total sense to me. I just got a decent mower for free, but somebody has mangled up all the factory wiring and I can't figure out what is what. Now that I know the essentials, I can skip the spaghetti mess that came with the mower! And without buying a new wiring harness for $80.
I am going to use it for mowing, so I might put a safety switch in here and there. Whatever is necessary to make sure nobody dies on it.
Did it work . Can I get some feedback from you
@@MikeTyson2 yes, turns out I didn't have to do much. This video helped me understand what I was looking at, and realizing that it wasn't as bad as I thought. Just some loose connections. Though, I don't think I'm getting a good charge to the battery yet. I need to chase that problem down, but it's not a big deal. I get 30 to 40 starts out of one charge from my charger.
Same here, this was the best video yet thanks
GREAT video sir, I just rewired my old Cub Cadet Hydro 1320 i put a bigger pulley on the engine and it runs real good, it's best to remove all the safety switches, weld up a better exhaust, jet the carby.
I run LED lights 2 upfront 2 under the footrests 1 at the back and a 12V- 90amp truck battery up behind the seat, lights up well at night.
Dude thank you so much man I been looking all over you tube for help with this and your video is the only one that actually explains it ❤
@@Tia-e4o definitely
Omg thank you for making this video was trying to rewire my mower myself and it just wasnt gunna happen until i found this video
So glad to find your channel. I have several mowers and other projects small engines and ,
Best precise info out there man , I've struggled so much with mower tractors cause issues like these , you are the man . Bowed to you .
Finally somebody that shows how to wire the stater for charging. Everybody else seemed to have white an red wires but mine was black an purple like yours. I did the same wiring job on my murray because the dam safety switch's "idiot helpers" wouldn't let me start it.
you can get a wiring diagram on the net if you know your model # a lot of brands are wired alike craftsman has a very good diagram it explains every wire on it good info.
Please supply the link Frank
When u grab the 2 red wires one goes to the switch and the other one goes to the charger wire what about the solenoid wire where does it run to
13:47 So you have 2 red wires going from the push button to the solenoid???
Hi Mate , I live In Sydney Australia Thanks so much for your clip
I saved like $80 Aus , I done it my self , because no one wants to work here , lol
I am going to pimp out my mower
thanks again
Steve
Lol " Down under pimping " sounds scary , but Australians know how to do it .
Greetings from Rhode Island 🇺🇸
This is exactly what I needed...making this old Craftsman tractor last one more year...or so. Thanks!!
thank you so much, i never would be able to fix my own mower without your excellent tutorial..... Kudos
Greetings from Rocket City!!! Thank you for taking time to enlighten me! Love it!
Brilliant. Thanks. Worked a treat. I have a carb solenoid and I found on another video you can remove fuel solenoid and grind off the spring pin in the centre. This will mean your fuel won’t cut off at shut down but I’m not racing or puddle jumping.
I’m wondering if the alternator/generators on mowers give trouble
Me too
Thanks. I have a second riding mower that I am turning into something to ride on my property. I was happy to find when I used the first url you provided, I was able to print it out. This will be a great help.
I like these videos im not doing a push button but id like to replace the key with a separate light switch im pretty much making my craftsman like a utv but its also going to be a second source of transport when im done with it. Im upgrading to led headlights addeding taillights and a secondary power source for the lightsso its not running off the mower battery and light power not judged by the engine power. Im also planning on switching from a speed throttle to a pedal throttle and a pulley swap for more speed with less need to run the throttle high to get it a little more fuel efficient its a craftsman lt1000 with a 19.5hp i/c briggs and stratton opposed twin with a 4 screw nikki carb with no mowing deck.
Where is the stater located
didn't go as far as rewiring but you video got me over the hump for troubleshooting why it wouldn't start .next thing on list is adjusting throttle .
How can I tell if I have a bad stator was starting with key and now key don't work gotta cross over the selenoid and headlights were working and now they dont... do you know what may be the problem
Stater is what charges the battery if you don't need to charge it it's not the stator it's a switch or wireing if your able to jump. It with the solenoid I would look at the key switch
What is the negative on the battery go?
Does the solenoid need to have a clean ground or does it need to have paint on it?
The solenoid I had in my DR Mower was a 3-post. The starter switch, I think, went to the 3/8" battery post, I think, since it has a 3/8" ring terminal on it. I put a 4-post solenoid because I replaced my old b&s 12.5 hp motor with a 17.5 hp B&S motor with an alternator (regulated system) since the old one is unregulated. I'm not hearing any click at all. My battery is over 11V. Any ideas on what to check short of taking the solenoid back out and bench testing it?
You say you changed to a 4 post solenoid have you earthed it correctly. One of the two small posts should be live when you turn the key to start and the other has to be grounded to the chassis or battery for the solenoid to work.
Just defeated 2 safety switches on an old Toro Wheelhorse. All I did was find the switch and ran the wires together creating a loop. The one for the clutch safety were 2 red and one green wire. I tried a loop first with the 2 red wires. That didn't work. Next I tried using the green for a ground. Still nothing. Ended up by simply twisting all three together. The pto switch was just two wires, again just twisted them together. If you have small kids or grandkids, obviously don't do this and when you sell make sure the new owner is aware of what the situation is with the mower. If it works its a heck of a lot easier than this way, at least to me.
And of course you try this at your own risk.
I got my mower set up for pull start so I don't need a battery or starter. so what would I need to do with the 2 stator wires?
I have a 1999 Murray which has the red wire with diode and black AC output wire on motor side of connector. But on the harness side of connector, I have 3 wires, a white AC wire on one pin, a red DC wire and a gray wire connected together on the another pin. These wires separate with the gray wire feeding into another connector on the motor side thats runs to the carburetor solenoid. I know the red wire runs to the battery side of the solenoid, but what do I do with the white AC wire and the gray wire that would run to the carb? I read on the comments where you said to run one to the lights and if so, which one and what do I do with the 3rd one? Gray and white?
I have a question can I use a on off switch to for the starter like the kill switch
yeaaaa but you will have to flip it back once its started a button is better
Show how u hook up the 2 wires from the battery to the solenoid
Does a snapper zero turn 33" has a fuse that goes to the battery?? I bought one and I was told it has to have one. I'm asking because it keeps killing my battery. When I buy a new one it takes like 2 weeks till it goes dead all the way or could it be the solinoid??
what if you have a craftsman with a 4 pole solenoid 2 spade connectors and your 2 round ones with a carburetor solenoid? help
You really do crack the method to the madness, Great Job and easily understood.
I respectfully suggest IF you need or want a BETTER quality solenoid switch that you get a automotive one, I used a automotive solenoid that's used on a 1965 Ford F100 truck. Many do not know these little mower solenoids are not truly waterproof, many are damaged by folks washing off their mowers etc. Compare YOUR ROOM where the lawn mower one fits to the Ford switch, the actual mount holes of my Ford switch MATCHED the hole pattern of the mower one, all I had to do is adapt wires to the switch, the cable terminals of the auto switch is larger.
I have a Craftsman LT1000 How would o be able to do what you did to my lawn tracter???
If it has the fuel solenoid on the carb it's the same you can hook up the solenoid to 12+ thru a switch or just remove it cut grind remove the plunger that sticks out and cut the wire off and put it back
This is a very good tutorial for me, thank you, My Craftsman shut-down on me. I tested the 4 Pole Solenoid, i got power from the Battery, power to the White wire when the key is turned, but not power on the out wire the the starter. I bought a 3 pole and Cowboyd the original ground. When i turn the key a get a Clunk sound on the chassis, think its the Solenoid. I have have found 2 Safety Switches. Though my Solenoid test should tell me the Safe switch's are good.
I found the wires from the engine you show in the video but also have to thick yellow wires that look like they are hooked to a square box on the side of the engine. This is a B&S Vanguard v twin. Will the wiring work with it. Neighbor that had worked on mower before said he didn't think I had fuel solenoid. Wasn't sure what the thick yellow wires are. bought new ignition (7 prong) and solenoid. Engine will not crank with key. Will if I jump solenoid but still doesn't start. Even with key in on position. So I am thinking it is a safety switch. Out of work so 40$ in and still not starting. Don't have money to chase problem by buying parts. Have a troybilt mower I can steal wires off of to rewire it. Before I take out all the original wiring in the Yard Machine I am working on I wanted to find out about the big yellow wires. Are they to a regulator? Someone suggested they are. I also was not clear on the second wire you said could be hooked to the headlights off the bottom of the engine? One to the solenoid and the other....is it needed for anything. The one with the nodules you called it.
i havent actually messed with to many twins yet but this guy >>> ua-cam.com/users/1darron1 had done lost more than i have he probbaly be able to tell ya what the wires are i think they are from the regulator but you can try to disconnect the switches one by one most have to be closed to work and take a wire and jump the connectors to find out what one is bad
i have 2 wires comeing from under flywheel red black black goes to ground red wire goes to a conater a wire goes to key switch other red wire goes to the bottom of solenloid have another wire goes from big post of solleniod to a fuse to key switch is this right ?
ok well i have two questions my positive wire on my stator does not have a diode in it can i still hook it up with out one and n the bottom of my carb there are two wires coming off the bottom of wich i think is an electric chock how do i hook it up or by pass it. its a 14.5 ohv Briggs and Straton. and the engine come off another lawn mower so the wires on this one are not the same
Hey podna need to see how to hook up carb and pto with this system you built.
I’m melting wires.
what is that little sqare thing which is situated beside the place where the solenoid should be? the one with 2 pins. is it the v.regulator?
GREAT VIDEO, I NEED HELP!! I HAVE NO SPARK AFTER I CHANGED THE COIL BUT I ALSO ATTACHED MY STATOR WIRE TO THE SWITCH PART OF THE SOLENOID. AND NOT SPLICED INTO THE BATTERY TERMINAL.. COULD THAT BE WHY??
The black wire from the coil has to go to a switch to ground that's what actually makes the engine stop the stator wire if you send it straight to the battery use a fuse if and a diode it will back feed and kill the battery or just use a switch if you have a two wire stator one side is 12 volts the other side is normally less and used for headlights
@@ibdalovely1 I finally got my mower going!! It turns out the coil I bought wasn't the right one. So I ordered the right one on Amazon and it fired up right away when I got my spark. I noticed in your video you didn't wire in any fuse to the circuit? Is it not necessary? Are the fuses originally there only to protect all the safely switches and igintion?
Great clip. Almost there fitting the wiring using a pre-used loom I bought and using your direction. I am a bit stuck on the following though and was wondering if anyone can help please? I have a single red wire coming down from the alternator. I also have a red wire and a red/white wire on the loom. Do I just join red to red? What is the red/ white wire for? I do not have headlights on my mower. It is a Westwood S1000. Thanking you
if it only has 1 wire and not 2 from the stator it needs to go the positive on the battery or to the solenoid as long as its on the positive side thats what keeps the battery charged look to see where the the red and red/wht goes to on the other en sounds like the harness is for a 2 wire and the engine is a 1 ni big deal though but on the 2 wire the one is for the lights and one is for the battery
+IBDALOVELY1 Yes that makes sense. Many thanks for your help with this. Much appreciated.
IBDALOVELY1 can i just use a ground and a starter wire on my mower and it will stay runnin
You are awesome, saved me a lot of headache👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
+jesse hureta, my friend, check to see if the magneto (altenator) is pluged up, its 2 wires mostly red and black, some times white /yellow and black, thr red one should have a diode ( tiny little barrell looking thingy, that is what runs your lights and recharges ur bat, if its not that, you have a grounding prob draining your bat goodluck and i hope its a simple fix for u cause i hate working on the elect
two small wires conennecting solenoid, which side does the red wire connect too?
You said you rewired one that has the carb solenoid?? I could not find the link, can you help? Thanks
I honestly never did post the video of that one you can just cut the plunger off and just ignore it it's more a safety feature if you really want it just needs 12v positive to work and I always put a fuel shutoff valve makes it easier to drain the tank for winter
@@ibdalovely1 Thank you for your response
I replaced my solenoid, go to start it, nothing happens, but my battery wires get hot. any ideas?
Hello, my solenoid has 2 spade commenters at the bottom and, in this video yours only has one at the bottom and 2 at top. Can I do this same exact wiring with my variation of a solenoid. Once again my solenoid has the 2 bolts at the top and has 2 spade commenters at bottom
Very useful video, thank you. I've been searching for this kind of information for too long and nobody, not even manufacturers, seem to want to provide it.
I still have a question you might have some insight on: What about a rectifier/regulator in the charging circuit? Does the solenoid also provide this function (AC to DC/voltage control)?
I recently acquired a B&S Powerbuilt 12.5hp elec start engine with charging system that came out of an unknown lawn tractor and am trying to figure out the proper way to wire up the charging system.
AlwaysFreeAmerica manufacturer are not going to tell you anything.
can I run the wire that charges the battery directly to the hot side of the battery, too keep the battery charged or would that create a problem or is their another way I can charge the battery. I'm hooking up a kill switch and a push start from the solenoid. The question is can I do this???
yep i did it the way i showed because my battery is in the back of the mower
right on, thanks...
I have a 2014 Craftsman GT 5500 with a push-button ignition I want to switch that to a keyed ignition any videos on that or any ideas
You can get a keyed switch to replace the button they can be as simple as 2 wires or if your trying the oem key switch you will need to find the starter wires out of the switch or find a complete harness and replace it but you will have to make sure the safety sensors are all good it's usually why people put a button them
How do i match the wiring from a craftman motor to a Husqvarna riding mower
Super helpful! This is gold. Thanks so much!
I tried several other simpler how-to rewiring videos (replace one solenoid wire + coil kill switch etc.) but, while my 15 hp twin Kawasaki engine would run fine, as soon as I went to put it in gear or start the mower deck, the engine would die. Finally I did it your way -- cut all the wires (gulp) and started from scratch. It works fine now and runs, cuts forward and back. BUT 2 things you didn't explain and with my limited mechanical knowledge, I messed up. 1) MOST IMPORTANT: I guess I cut off the wires to and from the voltage regulator as well and now my battery does not recharge, so I have a dead battery after every use. Any chance you can explain what wires have to go to the regulator, and how to rewire the hot wire to the + side of the battery? 2) and no longer so important to me because I did it, but IF you have a mower deck, it's important to rewire the PTO (mower deck on/off) using either a new switch, or existing switch but using only the back 2 terminals. From the PTO clutch there are 2 wires, one permanent ground, the other positive, which goes to and from the on/off switch (so it interrupts the positive flow). Here's the best explanation for that that I found ua-cam.com/video/W1ZZrkbIxzQ/v-deo.html
I will try it. I pulled a 20hp kohler off my ranchking (trashed steering gears) and put it on my Lt 1000. The kohler is supposedly fuel injected. I will figure it out. Good video bro. Peace
Hi mate, what is the most basic wiring system for my mower to run? Im going to use a key start as my kill switch and i have pull start and no fuel solenoid on carby
you only need the 1 wire from the coil to a switch to ground everything else hooked up is for charging or starting
Right on.
IBDALOVELY1 what ignition wires can i cut off... I dont want to change my key start. I just wanna remove the safetys
Did you ever get ring terminals? You only told us you didn't have them about 20 times.
what type of wire are you using
It's just basic cheap wire from the parts store if the original wire harness is still on the mower you can use the wire from that just take the black tape and protection off and use the wires you need
Hi, can you draw wiring diagram, thank you very much, have a good day
My dynamark makes spark when I push the button down I got the red connected to the push button and the black connected to the push button any ideas why it sparks won't turn over at all
Where does the black wire on the battery charging system go I know where the red one goes I don't know where the black one goes?
So what do you do with the other wire from the stator that normally runs to the lights?
Some have that wire some dont if you run it to your lights one side of the bulb will go to ground the other to that wire if not just tape it up and ignore it
I have a 2130 cub cadet the wiring got fried can you help me
Maybe
Would you be able to briefly explain about the fuel solenoid wire? E.G. do you hook it up similar to the coil and just splice it in different? Couldn’t find the video you said you’d do on it. Thank you
i didnt do a vid i kinda got got out of youtube and havent really made more vids im sorry but yea it just needs a positive voltage from somewhere but thrue a switch so you can turn it off or just pull the soleniod and cut the plunger off the inside and no wiring needed its more safety than anything
IBDALOVELY1 This video was really helpful. You should keep doing the UA-cam thing. Thank you.
What about the inline fuse from the solenoid ?
nice i got a 18 horse briggs will it be same ???
Did you take the cable from the stator and put it through a rectifier before going to battery ? Thanks
nope their wasnt one to begin with
ibdalovely1 Thanks mate. I Thought the power produced from the stator was always AC ? Not picking just trying to fathom this out myself.
How does it charge itself?
Depending on which stator you have 1 or 2 wire if it's 1 it goes to the battery positive if it's 2 you need to see which makes 12+volts as it runs some just take both and run them to the battery positive the lower voltage wire is supposed to go to the lights it only makes 6-10 volts
yep but i think that insted of the bolt that holds it to the frame one of the connectors goes to ground ive got one like you describe and ended up swapping it for the style i have in the vid because i did not know that it needed to be grounded
My starter solenoid has two spade connectors instead of one like yours what goes on that spade!
if it has 2 spade connectors one is your ground, you need to hook a ground wire to it and ground it to the frame. those type do not ground through the frame mount like the one in this video.
Does it matter which wire goes to which stud on the starter solenoid? I don't think it does just wanted to confirm
you say red wire from stater goes to battery not to battery side of solenioid ?
Heres a problem. I gutted the wire harness and rewired omitting safety switch. Have three pole solinoid. I have check everything several times. When i power the 12v to trip the solinoid to engagé the starter there is only a klicking. Two good batterie. I even connected them in parallel. Still not working. Maybe battery cables? They where also checked voltage threw positive at 13v.. I tride with push button and switch. Still same problem. I can jump the hot terminals on solinoid and starter spins the motor. Tip. You can reuse your key by poking a pointed object in the side grove in the plug. Then rewire and insert the correct wire back into the plug and plug back onto your key.
I have 1 with a solenoid on the carb how do u wire that with the push button and kill switch?
I use a additional switch it needs 12 volts i dont have a video of it though
ibdalovely1 make one for us please, video on how to wire carb solenoid.
How does it keep from draining the battery? Does it need another toggle switch?
nothing is active until you push the button the push button works the soloniod and the rocker switch is the kill
ok thanks. now im not getting any fire to the plug.
where does wires from stater hook took?
Excellent demo. Thanks for the quick run through of the wiring... very useful tutorial!
great how tos!. have you posted the video on how to rewire the fuel shut off solenoid?
Would you happen to know if I could wire my fuel shut off solenoid into that extra connector on my solenoid
I got a snapper , it caught fire [ small fire ] burned some insulation off wires, now I get no volts to the starter, I tried jumping straight from battery to the starter, engine tries to crank but wont keep cranking, battery is fully charged , question is why wont it crank by jumping straight from the battery, help.
Jim Lovejoy it should but if the grounding is bad it might not but if im trying to "test" a engine starting with bad wiring i use jumper cables 1 grounded to the block and the other to the starter another q is it a ohv briggs engine
black wire from coil to a 2 wire switch other side gets grounded i have no spark but did before i rewired it this way dont understand im sure coil just didnt go bad
Thanks dude for some no BS information,you need to make more videos.i would definitely share and like them.if you know how to do the same thing to a vtwin Honda gx620 let me know .
Two 😎
Again To Cool I forgot to say thank you I hope I am able to save this video. Thanks again. ME.
do you need the ground wire going from motor to frame ?
is that a old mtd mower?...i have one just like that from what i see...i need to rebuild it someday...does yours have a motorcycle type battery that sits by the gear shift?..i hate that i want to rig it to use a regular riding mower battery somewhere besides by the gear shift,but i cant find anywhere that would have room to set a regular battery on
Tim Spur check out my channel I have mine under my hood and mine identical to this one so I'm guessing yours to butttt I don't have any headlights hooked up
Tim Spur vt
Learn a lot of information about old mower and parts for older model mower
what about your magneto
are you talking about the coil
what type motor is that ?. shunt,series or compound
jose tavares thanks for letting me know that people still care enough to take the time to point out a common mistake I'm really sorry that I made you take this moment out of your time to explain that you think your funny and that you need to put the electronic brainwasher down and get a tan
Oh and have a nice day
Thank you for your HELP
Can u help me bypass the safety switch to the clutch? I want to keep the pto and seat safeties in tact. The clutch safety keeps going out and I'm tired of replacing it. Thanks in advance.
Travis Pike ive took a jumper wire testing them and connected the terminals on the harness on the mower together and that deletes them from the circuit
Thanks man
IBDALOVELY1 what do you mean connected them to the terminals? I have got it apart and have the wire that runs from the solenoid to the pto to the clutch safety. Do I just wire it onto the solenoid or somewhere else? This might have been a lil over my head but I'm in it now.lol
what if you have a four post selenoid
connect the battery red cable to eather big post conn.the starter big red cable to the other big post then conn the white wire to one of the small post the other (black ) wire to the other small post done when you turn key to start you send 12v to white wire on the small post this is thru brake pedal depressed this operates the soleonoid conn the two big red wires togeather inside the solenoid which conn the 12battery straight to the starter
does it matter which side is battery side
+paul mclaughlin nope not at all
When did you do the video where you rewired the other mower? Did it have the saftey switches on it? Went from a 3 post solenoid to a 4. Do I have to have anything on the 4th post? And where would it come from?
if it is not marked + or - it does not matter it is just a coil to activate the magnet that closes the contacts. the only time it matters is if it has a diode preinstalled to cut down on chatter. if it does, the prongs will be marked OR the diode will be visible 1 side will go to chassis and the other the the switch
Great job dude been needing to know this for awhile
Thank you for simplifying this mess! I just need this crapped out old Murray to last a little longer till I get a new one. Just the info I was looking for!
did you make make the other video that parallels this one? The one for wiring a riding mower with electric wired cards? i need some pointers. i liked this video. you are a good teacher and easy to follow along with.
Is there anyway you can tell me how to run my fuel cut off switch to a toggle switch... I put a motor on it that didn't have that
So I don't know what or how to hook it up
It needs a positive voltage it take it out and clip the plunger off the inside and then you don't need to hook anything up it's more of a safety thing but if you need it hooked up just loop 12v from wherevers convent thrue a switch and then to the solenoid it should open if you hide the switch it won't run without it
@@ibdalovely1 so if I run it to a toggle switch just make both sides positive and leave it on...loop a power wire from both sides of a toggle switch and back to the selenoid... if so the one with the battery wire going to it or the other side
@@leemullins1435 so it you take 12+ from the battery or whearever to one side of a toggle then the other side of that toggle should go to the solenoid on the carb with this it will not start for long without the switch in the on position thing is it will run your battery down if it gets left on between weekly mows make a note close to the key and switch to turn it off with a paint marker
great easy to follow video. Job well done.! Ontario Canada