A comparison in build quality, workmanship and performance between the OEM Hella Turbo Actuator and the Chinese Knock-Off that has recently appeared on the market.
@@ninrm6355 no I didn’t need to. After reading a few comments on various forums, I tried the cheap option first- sprayed the outside unit with wd40, sprayed electronic cleaner spray into the actuator and it never went into limp mode again. Since then I’ve also put turbo cleaner through, and regularly put an additive in my fuel.
Hi, I also want to do such a thing for the turbine actuator BMWe38 m67 to test the actuator for tsrapravnost, an error appears ,, short circuit on B -, this is a mistake, tell me I have such a board, I need to program this board differently, and There are also actuators not working, what could fail in electronics? Thank.
I have two questions, hopefully you can help me. I'm replacing the actuator on a 3.0 TDI engine, it looks quite similar to the one in your video. Question #1, how do I adjust the arm when putting the actuator back on the car, physically? I bought a new unit, and the arm seems like it's impossible to move into position so I can reconnect it to the car. Question #2, after I finish installing it, does it have to be programmed by the dealer, or will the car just figure it out and function normally? Very informative video, thanks!
This is way too late to help you. But it will help others: 1. When you apply power to the actuator (plug it in and cycle key on and off) it will automatically position itself to the "home" position. This will allow it to be installed and access to the bolts. 2. NO IT DOES NOT. despite the misinformation from dealers these activities are not specifically "keyed" or programmed to that particular turbine. You can take one from one vehicle and place it in another. But you can't switch from different type of vehicles. Although the actuator looks the same, they are programmed differently. Further, you can't take one from a 2004 sprinter and put it in a 2009 ml350 and have it "programmed" for example. Hope this helps you guys.
You get what you pay for. Having said that, I have fixed expected problems with very cheap alternatives... But from experience, this isn't one of them.
Thanks for this. I nearly bought a cheap actuator off eBay. Now I’m getting mine reconditioned
Did you manage to rebuild yours then?
@@ninrm6355 no I didn’t need to. After reading a few comments on various forums, I tried the cheap option first- sprayed the outside unit with wd40, sprayed electronic cleaner spray into the actuator and it never went into limp mode again. Since then I’ve also put turbo cleaner through, and regularly put an additive in my fuel.
Hi, I also want to do such a thing for the turbine actuator BMWe38 m67 to test the actuator for tsrapravnost, an error appears ,, short circuit on B -, this is a mistake, tell me I have such a board, I need to program this board differently, and There are also actuators not working, what could fail in electronics? Thank.
Does it matter how smooth or jerky the actuator moves? Can you tell when using it? What is the effect when driving?
Cómo lo conectaste para que funcione afuera???
The turbine actuator stopped responding, the electronics do not work in it, you can repair it
I have two questions, hopefully you can help me. I'm replacing the actuator on a 3.0 TDI engine, it looks quite similar to the one in your video. Question #1, how do I adjust the arm when putting the actuator back on the car, physically? I bought a new unit, and the arm seems like it's impossible to move into position so I can reconnect it to the car. Question #2, after I finish installing it, does it have to be programmed by the dealer, or will the car just figure it out and function normally?
Very informative video, thanks!
This is way too late to help you. But it will help others:
1. When you apply power to the actuator (plug it in and cycle key on and off) it will automatically position itself to the "home" position. This will allow it to be installed and access to the bolts.
2. NO IT DOES NOT. despite the misinformation from dealers these activities are not specifically "keyed" or programmed to that particular turbine. You can take one from one vehicle and place it in another. But you can't switch from different type of vehicles. Although the actuator looks the same, they are programmed differently. Further, you can't take one from a 2004 sprinter and put it in a 2009 ml350 and have it "programmed" for example.
Hope this helps you guys.
plastic gear in both obviously made to fail at some point
Yes and no. The black gear is made of softer material. I call it sacrificial because it's conveniently the only one that can be changed.
So what ur saying is that my $30.00 actuator is garbage? Lol 😂
You get what you pay for. Having said that, I have fixed expected problems with very cheap alternatives... But from experience, this isn't one of them.