BMW common turbo problem FIXED N47 320d Diesel
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- This BMW 320 d was repeatedly going into limp mode and cutting power to the engine.
The main trouble codes all pointed towards the turbo actuator and the EGR valve however after running a few tests we quickly discovered the actuator arm on the turbo was seized pointing towards clogged veins and turbo housing
#bmw #320d #beemer #turbo #turbocharged #carbon #clogged #mecahic #carrepair #bmwproblems #turboproblems #diy #fix #enginerepair #howto #guide #howtofixyourcar #diesel #bimmer
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This is by far one of the best videos I've seen on UA-cam on explaining the process. Looking at getting an X1 with the same N47. This just helps to know what to look out for. Thanks brother
@@shakirhussain95 no problem at all mate 👍
big thanks to you, mate. I was getting crazy about my e90 lacking boost. Frankly I was thinking exactly on this issue, but you have confirmed my thoughts about that. Ur a legend friendo
@@antoniomartingarcia6229 no problem at all bud, really happy I could help 👍👍
great walk thru fella, subscibed and looking forward to more bmw contentent, i have the e70 x5 35d msport, (and love it)
Thank you mate, much appreciated and I totally know what you mean about the love hate thing 🤣
First thing I done when I got my n47 was disconnect the vacuum pipe from the EGR.
Brilliant Video. Thank you!
No problem Geoff and thank you so much bud 👍
goign to check when i get home been getting only 33.5 mpg lately and i suspect the actuator arm is clogged up, makes a deep noise when i hit throttle then hit it again right after like its bogging out a bit
@@jondoe1733 definitely worth checking mate
How is it possible to disassemble the turbo without needing to recalibrate it afterward? When I worked on my 1 Series F20, I ended up having to buy a brand new original turbo because, after opening it up, it required calibration from the factory.
@@HasimCoskun it’s an older car for a start mate and to be fair when opening up and cleaning nothings changed other then removing the carbon. That said I would usually replace the cartridge or whole turbo on something much newer or with way less mileage but as this was an old run around of mine with 185k on it then it weren’t having super special treatment 👍
hello im having a problem with my bmw f30 320d on computer says turbo high pressure when i accelerate hard it jumps me to drivetrain light then i have to stop the car then start again when i drive normal no hard push nothing happens what could it be?
@@fitimramadani6174 it’s highly likely you’re having the same issue described in the video mate, sounds like you’re hitting overboost, does the car lurch or stutter at all when the fault appears ?
Mine doesn’t seem as quick as once was! Would that be the issue? 145000 on oem turbo tia
@@clivebannister7016 I would certainly be checking that first mate, mine ended up basically running without the turbo for the last few months before I sorted it so it was really down on power so it’s definitely a likely cause for your issue, worth a check for sure 👍 I ended up putting in a new cartridge from eBay and it ran like a dream after that
@@custombodyrepair Cheers fella Ill give it a look
I have the same car. I found a leak from my actuator arm, exhaust gas coming from it. Can I fix it by taking my turbo out or do I need a new turbo? I'm trying to figure out how its leaking
@@zizmares easiest and cheapest way to solve it mate if it’s coming from the actuator arm is to remove the turbo and replace the cartridge, it’s a fairly straight forward job mate, super easy once the turbo is out 👍
@@custombodyrepair Thank you for the help, I appreciate it. I need to find the part, not sure what it's called in my language, always fun hunting these things down. Cheers 👍
Absolutely brilliant mate
I’ve reckon I got the same problem and thinking about doing this, do you know what codes u had and what symptoms you had, I definitely know my actuator arm is stuck like yours was.
Cheers
Most of the codes came back to boost pressure actuator, I think on my snap on diag it was 483c and there were a few pointing back to egr controller position from the incorrect turbo readings mate and the car kept cutting engine power and throwing up the half coloured in engine management light in the little centre screen on the dash, mines totally sorted now from doing this and driving lovely 👍 anymore help you need with this mate just drop a comment here and I’ll help where I can
@@custombodyrepair that’s the exact problem I have and also that exact code, all of a sudden I’ve got plans for tomorrow at 6 in the morning, cheers u really helped out here!
@@carlqvisander4886 absolutely no problem at all mate, that’s what we are here for and what we are aiming to do with our channel, hopefully help as many people along the way as we can and hopefully build some cool and fun projects, if you get stuck at all during the job just reach out mate, I don’t mean to assume anything I’m just not sure how handy you are or aren’t when it comes to things like this, you might be a whiz in which case ignore me lol 👍
@@custombodyrepair thanks for the heads up, I’ll reach out incase anything goes south or is successful.
@@carlqvisander4886 no worries Carl, good luck mate 👍
Hi there and thanks for the video. I have the N47 engine in my mini and hear a whine but as i have just had the belts and pulleys changed plus rocker cover gasket changed, I can hear a whine coming from the engine area. Just trying to figure out where the noise is coming from so looking at all options, like turbo or boost pipe issue. with the turbo actuator arm, when the engine is off, should it rattle a little and then go stiff when the engine is on?
@@minimad8793 with the actuator arm, it should be free moving if disconnected from the actuator, if it’s still connected then you won’t be able to move it by hand because the actuator will keep it in the position it needs to in order to operate properly, if you’ve had all the pulleys changed then the whine is unlikely to be a pulley bearing but is still possible, it all depends on the sort of whine that’s actually being made, if it’s more of a bearing type whine it could be a transmission issue, if it’s more of a high pitched squeal on boost then it’s likely a leak somewhere along the turbo circuit, although what I did on this one did fix the issue, I actually ended up changing the turbo cartridge just last week because it developed that high pitched squeal after I’d done the work in this video, it was likely just one of the air seals in the turbo that caused it but for the price of the cartridge I just changed it and it solved it immediately when refitted with all new gaskets
@@custombodyrepair well that sounds feasible, the cartridge. I am going to take the the air box out tmro and clean all the pipes and going to ensure the spines on the turbo are clean not touching. thanks for your help on this. We shall see tmro.👌
@@minimad8793 good luck bud 👍
@@custombodyrepair seems the rubber pipe on the intake pipe has a rather large split in it (someone has removed it previously by the looks as its jubilee clipped and not banded. so have ordered a used but good intake pipe and new seals. hopefully this is the issue. Thanks dude. soz i put george, was compiling an email at the same time pmsl
@@minimad8793 I reckon you may well have found the problem there bud, smashing work 👍
Great video. Cauld you tell me what symptoms led you to turbo actuator falut apart from the codes? Thanks!
Few things bud, mainly that the car never seemed to have any boost so I knew somehwhere along the lines the turbo wasn’t engaging properly when it was supposed to and then a visual inspection of the actuator trying to move the vein arm and not being able to due to it being seized up and quite often I could hear the actuator trying to move it for a minute or 2 after the car was turned off, this whole issue also ended up causing the egr controller to go aswell because it was constantly receiving incorrect readings etc
@@custombodyrepair thanks for the reply. It looks like I have the same issue. Should I be able to move the actuator arm while the engine is not running?
@@MrBaffango if you disconnect the actuator then the arm should move without any major resistance yeah, if it doesn’t then like in mine either the arm is seized up or the inside of the turbo is jammed up with carbon deposits 👍
@@MrBaffango if it won’t move freely with the actuator disconnected then use a spanner or similar and get it moving back and forth and suddenly you’ll have boost again and that will confirm the issue but it will only last a matter of days, if the arm moves freely then it’s likely to be that the actuator itself has blown
@@custombodyrepair thank you!