Yo Riders lock, after watching your video here and from over 20 years gunsmithing, I'd like to add my 2npence worth, the Birch wood case product does work but things are not that simple, instructions on these sets reads quite plain and simple but doesn't tell you anything about the surface you yourself have prepped, over the past hood few years I've used permablu, superbue, and the gel and each time has resulted in a different coverage, it's down to the type of metal, it's purity, if it's an alloy and how you have prepped the metal, Never use regular wax based buffing wheel compounds, metal is a porous surface, I believe wax is the main issue to your problem here specifically and waxes are very difficult to get out of polished metals, when your buffing for the best possible surface you are applying wax and heat from buffing which impregnates the metal with oils from the wax, so what is the remedy to this problem? It's petroleum or diesel and you'll need to warm the slide to around 50 degrees c and submerge the slide in one of these fules do begin degreasing it first off. Do not try to replicate a high sheen glossy blue because this is only achieved by hot bluing and never cold blue acids, you can reapply and with 0000 gauge wire wool repeatedly rub down after every blu application for a better and deeper sheen buts that's as good as it gets... until you then soak metal work with oil, which will bring a deep and dark with a much lesser patchy result, I recommend silicone oil. The ideal metal surface such as barrels and top slides should be bone dry, matt, to lightly brushed, never had any oils lay on it or ever been wax buffed, basically raw metal that looks like it's about to rust on its own anyway! And then making sure its clean, warm the past up with a blow torch until it feels warm, not hot but warm to ntouch, and now is the time to apply bluing and done so liberally, you want want run marks but you have to pay down large quantities fast and as smoothly as possible (imagine trying to cover a canvas with espresso coffee without getting any streak marks), once first application is done leave for exactly 1 minute and then very lightly (1 hair and some air) wipe over the piece under running cold water, pat dry and repeat (6x as a good standard bench mark) what you should find is a very pale, patchy and dull finish, now it's time for liberal coatings of silicone oil, resting the part in the oil, wiping it off and leaving oil on it for at least the first few usages, it will always need an oil application and barrier products work well. There is no need to chuck the slide away or get out a grinder to get that patchy bluing off, a buffing wheel with no compound or a water based compound will buff off the bluing! So, you back in square 1,what should you do? Degrease this top. Slide with gasoline, petroleum and wire wool at a fine grade such as 0000,rinse and repeat, you can use soaps in between and end up with a matt looking brushed slide, now your ready for bluing the cold blu way, an alternative is to prep and use browning first and then with a cold. Blue final. Application. Hope y'all can can read what I'm typing because I can't, for some reason after 39 words my yt comment box turns black and I can't see anything I write! Anyway.... Good luck, don't give up on it, and make sure you show anyone else the improvements. Clod bluing is a real bitch!
I've had the same issue as this guy too, it's never as consistent across the metal I'm cold bluing as I want it to be:) I still find myself going to videos trying to find hints and tips here and there. After reading your comment, I think next time I'll use some diesel and silicone based oil, put my heat gun or blow torch to use and see what happens:) HA! Thanks
@@geico1975 yeah, don't stop trying, litterally as raw as you can get the base metal the better is will adhere, that's not good if you want a polished finish because polishing dulls out the porosity of the metal, polished steel is for hot or. rust bluing or even browning, your looking for a really lightly and fine brushed metal finish for cold blue, and even then the metal needs to be way above room temp for better results, not hot but like 50-60c, as for swabbing areas with wool,... its far better to drench a large area as fast and as wet as possible, I'll share 1 other thing, wire wool even at 00 gauge between coats does no favors, it's like undoing what you've managed to achieve - for me anyway! I just rince and towel pat dry before another application. lastly I've just discovered that wax over your final coat and then buffed out works better than soaking in oil as a long lasting finish, oil is great and should be applied as fast as possible to your finished piece but after a good oil bath I lightly tap that off as much as possible then apply wax, even carnuba wax works well to deepen the blue and protect the metal but just make sure there is never any type of cutting grit in any Polish you apply, Birch wood casey do a stock finish wax and this actually works great over newly blued metalwork. good luck and hit me up if you find out anything I've said works for yall.
if all else fails with bluing and you have a steel part you can brass plate it very easily, with raw base metal heat with a blow torch to 600f (not to glowing point just very hot) and you can now do 1 of 2 things, submerge the part in oil (turning it black) or use a full brass wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder, the bristles of the wheel or brush must be 100% brass, and that will result in a hard wearing brass plate, which if polished will look like gold, to keep it that way you can brass laque the piece. if anyone wants to know more about non steel parts (such as aluminium or zink and aluminium pot metal alloys drop me a ping.
Glock slides are also stainless steel so bluing isn't going to work as well as carbon steel. Duracoat makes something called durablue which is a paint that looks like bluing he may want to try.
I bought a gun range rental Glock 19 a couple years ago and it looked thrashed. I was going to sand it and cold blue it but after a light sanding (very light) with 1000 grit paper I liked the look of it so much I just left it that way. It never has showed any indication of rusting and I intend on leaving it that way. Live and learn. Great video my friend.
I did the same thing to my Glock 23 Gen 3. I took some 600 grit first and then 1000. I left it like that for a few months and recently I just decided to spray paint the slide. Couple coats of primer, and few coats of black paint. Came out pretty good. Looks like a gen 5 but with more sheen to it. Gave me back some grip too. Its not going to last forever but when it starts to wear out it actually may have an even cooler look😮😂 we’ll see!
Most of the factory treatments soak deep into the metal, light scuffs on the finish are entirely superficial. I just want to know if cold blueing is comparable to full blueing.
@@DirtyMike_n_theBoyz Mike, cold blueing doesn’t start to compare to commercial treatments. It should really be used for touch up of small dings. It probably would have turned out rough so I’m glad I changed my mind. Still no rust of any kind.
@@maxmccain8950 good to know, i have cheap cerakoted slide i wanted to strip to bare metal, considered cold blue, but may just spray painting it or high polishing it and leaving it bare.
It does look like stainless steel (some glock slides are made using stainless alloys, idk where these comments are coming from saying all glock slides aren't, each manufacturer uses different combinations to spec). But just from the look of it, that looks like a stainless steel of sorts, hard to tell if you polished it after priming the surface, but if it is then there's the issue, its not impossible but depending on the grade of steel it'll be better and easier to hot blue it as physical contact with the cold bluing on stainless steel will degrade the finish over time, but don't let that discourage you, I didn't know much when I started either a decade ago too ! Cold bluing is effective, the more you do it the better experienced you become. Take care, and keep it up!
@@PK-YTMusic, ferrolho da glock não escurece nem na oxidação negra. Creio que seja muito carbono ou inox mesmo. Na oxidação negra fica cor meio marrom bronze. E na CZ fica marrom escuro.
Gasoline has all sorts of additives in it and some are waxy. It's just like playing Russian roulette since you have no ideas the additives used. Brake cleaner and acetone are cheap.
I know it's called cold blue but whenever you attempt to Blue something you need to heat up the part. Hit it with a heat gun until it is almost too hot to touch. before you do that make sure you scuffed the hell out of it with fine sandpaper and then spray it with brake cleaner thoroughly. Heat it up and then apply the blue
People don't understand that bluing doesnt work the same on some metals as it does on others. Whatever metal the glock's slide is just does not take the cold blue, it's not user error it's just not the way it works.
The factory tennifer Glock coating is hard to beat. I would just cold blue over that. You need to degrease EVERY bit of wax and oil off using stronger chemicals such as brake cleaner and acetone. Personally I don't care what it looks like so much as it is protective against rust -especially on a carry gun. I live on a boat and my daily carry gun gets beat up by the saltwater and salt air. Every time I see any rust I strip the slide and buff all the rust off with a brass brush, degrease, and slather the cold blue over everything to add a new rust-resistant coating. I use lanolin oil/wax to protect and saturate the blue before buffing to a nice finish. This has to be done every couple of months to keep the rust at bay.
When I Blue gun parts I use brake cleaner to remove oil and grease off. It’s safe as long as it is only bare metal don’t use it if you have any parts still attached especially plastic parts. I have done quite a few guns and Had the same problem until I used Brake cleaner to rinse the parts needing blued
Glock barrels and slides are made from quality steel which has been treated with a special "Tenifer" process. This colorless carbo-nitrate formula enriches the steel with oxygen, sealing its pores. Tenifer makes the steel extremely hard (as hard as industrial diamond on the Rockwell scale) and corrosion resistant. I think pores are problem to blueing process, I tried to do the same what you are done, same result
The thickness itself is half of a guitar string. Wikipedia : It is 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) thick and produces a 64 Rockwell C hardness rating via a 500 °C (932 °F) nitride bath.[32] The final matte, non-glare finish meets or exceeds stainless steel specifications, is 85% more corrosion resistant than a hard chrome finish, and is 99.9% salt-water corrosion resistant. 😮
Sand with fine sandpaper work from 400 grit can go up to 1200 or 2000 grit than use jeweller's rouge for hard metal clean with alcohol 91% than nitro solvent dont touch with bare hands i usally blue it set it in an oven for 20 min at 200degrees i clean it with flannel cloth and nitro solvent works better than steel wool repeat the process til you get desired finish wipe down with gun oil
Once you are buffing something, you have to grind it to get all the polishing down. You cant yust blue it. Polishing is a strong act to surfaces and makes them stronger. But to channge a surface with a chemical reaction you need a bare metal surface for an even finish. I think its the polishing marks that make your life hard there.
I've seen a video on UA-cam in which a gentleman blued a Ruger Mk4 hunter which was originally stainless steel and it worked good. Of course I'm aware not all the gun metals or stainless steels are the same. If I were you I'd go with a very light sand blast and then bluing. 😊
He was supposed to polish it with wool, clean it with alcohol and rinse with cold water! Then apply the stuff let it sit for a min, rinse with cold water, polish with wool and repeat!!
For 1 brother you didn't degrease it good enough I wouldn't have hit it with the Dremel and a degreed 60° sandpaper maybe 120 then I would have used a tupperware bowl or the primo blue in it and set the slide into it rather than touching and holding it and swapping it with that little q-tip I'm pretty sure if you did it that way it would look a lot more better. The problem is that that's a nickel plate high polish you need to get that doll before you start painting it a light bristle rub and degrease ain't going to work you have to get that polish Co off. It's so hard brother to keep watching you try to use that bristle pad and degreaser that's never going to work you need to get through that nickel-plated polish coat you have to send it down 2 doll until you do that it will never take and also you did have a great idea with heating it up and thrown in used oil motor oil which would have gave it a awesome design and similar blues
Ok , the very first thing you must do is wash it down with industrial grade lacquer thinner , then soak it in the thinner over night to remove all traces of oil . Can use automotive brake cleaner , or equal. Then follow the directions on the bottle, use the blue& rust remover even if you don’t think there is any rust , because there could be in those little pit marks . Then becaus the blue does not stop the rusting process you finish with the soaking in oil 8-12 hrs , out in the sun or a hot environment, hot enough to barely hold, to open up the pours & let the oil in ; or the Birch Wood Casey Barricad process I have yet to do this last one myself . AND , 1 more thing , isopropyl alcohol is not - denatured alcohol - which equals alcohol for fuel
Это ты кому оставил послание? Наверное себе, потому-что никто ничиго не поймет. Кстати я тоже не понял, что ты хотел сказать и причем здесь Birchwood Aluminum для стальной детали?
Not so ! Prime it with what ? The first thing you put on, after a thorough soaking in industrial paint thinner, or brake clean , to remove all oil is the blue - follow directions !
Your supposed to rub it in back and forth it will blue as u are doing that u shouldn't have to wait .all u did was lightly slidevthe thing back and forth. Rub the blue in back and forth good
you did this little wrong. Take a look at guy who present this product from the company. You supposed to put the cleaner then sand then blue then you supposed to wash the slide. And repeat the process. You just put the blue. That’s why you have only places and not whole slide 🙂
Dont want a glock for free, worst grips, worst sights, worts trigger pull, without all the xstra's it just looks like a peace of square tubing that you can buy at home depot
Yo Riders lock, after watching your video here and from over 20 years gunsmithing, I'd like to add my 2npence worth, the Birch wood case product does work but things are not that simple, instructions on these sets reads quite plain and simple but doesn't tell you anything about the surface you yourself have prepped, over the past hood few years I've used permablu, superbue, and the gel and each time has resulted in a different coverage, it's down to the type of metal, it's purity, if it's an alloy and how you have prepped the metal, Never use regular wax based buffing wheel compounds, metal is a porous surface, I believe wax is the main issue to your problem here specifically and waxes are very difficult to get out of polished metals, when your buffing for the best possible surface you are applying wax and heat from buffing which impregnates the metal with oils from the wax, so what is the remedy to this problem? It's petroleum or diesel and you'll need to warm the slide to around 50 degrees c and submerge the slide in one of these fules do begin degreasing it first off. Do not try to replicate a high sheen glossy blue because this is only achieved by hot bluing and never cold blue acids, you can reapply and with 0000 gauge wire wool repeatedly rub down after every blu application for a better and deeper sheen buts that's as good as it gets... until you then soak metal work with oil, which will bring a deep and dark with a much lesser patchy result, I recommend silicone oil. The ideal metal surface such as barrels and top slides should be bone dry, matt, to lightly brushed, never had any oils lay on it or ever been wax buffed, basically raw metal that looks like it's about to rust on its own anyway! And then making sure its clean, warm the past up with a blow torch until it feels warm, not hot but warm to ntouch, and now is the time to apply bluing and done so liberally, you want want run marks but you have to pay down large quantities fast and as smoothly as possible (imagine trying to cover a canvas with espresso coffee without getting any streak marks), once first application is done leave for exactly 1 minute and then very lightly (1 hair and some air) wipe over the piece under running cold water, pat dry and repeat (6x as a good standard bench mark) what you should find is a very pale, patchy and dull finish, now it's time for liberal coatings of silicone oil, resting the part in the oil, wiping it off and leaving oil on it for at least the first few usages, it will always need an oil application and barrier products work well. There is no need to chuck the slide away or get out a grinder to get that patchy bluing off, a buffing wheel with no compound or a water based compound will buff off the bluing! So, you back in square 1,what should you do? Degrease this top. Slide with gasoline, petroleum and wire wool at a fine grade such as 0000,rinse and repeat, you can use soaps in between and end up with a matt looking brushed slide, now your ready for bluing the cold blu way, an alternative is to prep and use browning first and then with a cold. Blue final. Application. Hope y'all can can read what I'm typing because I can't, for some reason after 39 words my yt comment box turns black and I can't see anything I write! Anyway.... Good luck, don't give up on it, and make sure you show anyone else the improvements. Clod bluing is a real bitch!
I've had the same issue as this guy too, it's never as consistent across the metal I'm cold bluing as I want it to be:) I still find myself going to videos trying to find hints and tips here and there. After reading your comment, I think next time I'll use some diesel and silicone based oil, put my heat gun or blow torch to use and see what happens:) HA! Thanks
@@geico1975 yeah, don't stop trying, litterally as raw as you can get the base metal the better is will adhere, that's not good if you want a polished finish because polishing dulls out the porosity of the metal, polished steel is for hot or. rust bluing or even browning, your looking for a really lightly and fine brushed metal finish for cold blue, and even then the metal needs to be way above room temp for better results, not hot but like 50-60c, as for swabbing areas with wool,... its far better to drench a large area as fast and as wet as possible, I'll share 1 other thing, wire wool even at 00 gauge between coats does no favors, it's like undoing what you've managed to achieve - for me anyway! I just rince and towel pat dry before another application. lastly I've just discovered that wax over your final coat and then buffed out works better than soaking in oil as a long lasting finish, oil is great and should be applied as fast as possible to your finished piece but after a good oil bath I lightly tap that off as much as possible then apply wax, even carnuba wax works well to deepen the blue and protect the metal but just make sure there is never any type of cutting grit in any Polish you apply, Birch wood casey do a stock finish wax and this actually works great over newly blued metalwork. good luck and hit me up if you find out anything I've said works for yall.
Thank you bro I learned alot reading through this
if all else fails with bluing and you have a steel part you can brass plate it very easily, with raw base metal heat with a blow torch to 600f (not to glowing point just very hot) and you can now do 1 of 2 things, submerge the part in oil (turning it black) or use a full brass wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder, the bristles of the wheel or brush must be 100% brass, and that will result in a hard wearing brass plate, which if polished will look like gold, to keep it that way you can brass laque the piece. if anyone wants to know more about non steel parts (such as aluminium or zink and aluminium pot metal alloys drop me a ping.
Glock slides are also stainless steel so bluing isn't going to work as well as carbon steel. Duracoat makes something called durablue which is a paint that looks like bluing he may want to try.
I bought a gun range rental Glock 19 a couple years ago and it looked thrashed. I was going to sand it and cold blue it but after a light sanding (very light) with 1000 grit paper I liked the look of it so much I just left it that way. It never has showed any indication of rusting and I intend on leaving it that way. Live and learn. Great video my friend.
I did the same thing to my Glock 23 Gen 3. I took some 600 grit first and then 1000. I left it like that for a few months and recently I just decided to spray paint the slide. Couple coats of primer, and few coats of black paint. Came out pretty good. Looks like a gen 5 but with more sheen to it. Gave me back some grip too. Its not going to last forever but when it starts to wear out it actually may have an even cooler look😮😂 we’ll see!
Most of the factory treatments soak deep into the metal, light scuffs on the finish are entirely superficial. I just want to know if cold blueing is comparable to full blueing.
@@DirtyMike_n_theBoyz Mike, cold blueing doesn’t start to compare to commercial treatments. It should really be used for touch up of small dings. It probably would have turned out rough so I’m glad I changed my mind. Still no rust of any kind.
@@maxmccain8950 good to know, i have cheap cerakoted slide i wanted to strip to bare metal, considered cold blue, but may just spray painting it or high polishing it and leaving it bare.
It does look like stainless steel (some glock slides are made using stainless alloys, idk where these comments are coming from saying all glock slides aren't, each manufacturer uses different combinations to spec).
But just from the look of it, that looks like a stainless steel of sorts, hard to tell if you polished it after priming the surface, but if it is then there's the issue, its not impossible but depending on the grade of steel it'll be better and easier to hot blue it as physical contact with the cold bluing on stainless steel will degrade the finish over time, but don't let that discourage you, I didn't know much when I started either a decade ago too ! Cold bluing is effective, the more you do it the better experienced you become.
Take care, and keep it up!
I guarantee you there is a huge amount of metal, alloy purity differences from the same manufacturer for the same item.
@@PK-YTMusic, ferrolho da glock não escurece nem na oxidação negra. Creio que seja muito carbono ou inox mesmo. Na oxidação negra fica cor meio marrom bronze. E na CZ fica marrom escuro.
Worked at Smith & Wesson a while ago. Best to heat the metal up with heat gun. Then blue.
Try wiping it down with acetone prior to the cold blue. That has never failed me.
Acetone is very good but petrol is much better.
Gasoline has all sorts of additives in it and some are waxy. It's just like playing Russian roulette since you have no ideas the additives used. Brake cleaner and acetone are cheap.
I know it's called cold blue but whenever you attempt to Blue something you need to heat up the part. Hit it with a heat gun until it is almost too hot to touch. before you do that make sure you scuffed the hell out of it with fine sandpaper and then spray it with brake cleaner thoroughly. Heat it up and then apply the blue
I have a new ar that has a bit of rash on the hand guard, can you recommenda fix for that?
I get it hot, put the cold blue on and rub it with oil while it's still wet and hot. It holds up so much better and gets a lot better coloring.
People don't understand that bluing doesnt work the same on some metals as it does on others. Whatever metal the glock's slide is just does not take the cold blue, it's not user error it's just not the way it works.
The factory tennifer Glock coating is hard to beat. I would just cold blue over that.
You need to degrease EVERY bit of wax and oil off using stronger chemicals such as brake cleaner and acetone.
Personally I don't care what it looks like so much as it is protective against rust -especially on a carry gun. I live on a boat and my daily carry gun gets beat up by the saltwater and salt air. Every time I see any rust I strip the slide and buff all the rust off with a brass brush, degrease, and slather the cold blue over everything to add a new rust-resistant coating. I use lanolin oil/wax to protect and saturate the blue before buffing to a nice finish. This has to be done every couple of months to keep the rust at bay.
The best way is to see a gunsmith for a excellent blue gun job on a steel slide better than glock 😮
Well the words are English but ffs did ya have a stroke typing this comment 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Recommendation...muratic acid bath...neutralize..wipe clean..then do immersed baths of piece. Repeat
When I Blue gun parts I use brake cleaner to remove oil and grease off. It’s safe as long as it is only bare metal don’t use it if you have any parts still attached especially plastic parts. I have done quite a few guns and Had the same problem until I used Brake cleaner to rinse the parts needing blued
Cold blue doesn't work well on stainless steel. It's gotta be high carbon to work well
This is correct 👌
Glock barrels and slides are made from quality steel which has been treated with a special "Tenifer" process. This colorless carbo-nitrate formula enriches the steel with oxygen, sealing its pores. Tenifer makes the steel extremely hard (as hard as industrial diamond on the Rockwell scale) and corrosion resistant. I think pores are problem to blueing process, I tried to do the same what you are done, same result
The thickness itself is half of a guitar string. Wikipedia : It is 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) thick and produces a 64 Rockwell C hardness rating via a 500 °C (932 °F) nitride bath.[32] The final matte, non-glare finish meets or exceeds stainless steel specifications, is 85% more corrosion resistant than a hard chrome finish, and is 99.9% salt-water corrosion resistant. 😮
@@nafis6668
👍
Incorrect. Tenifer hasn’t been used in many years. No longer allowed into the country.
on a lighter note, it is a nice "battle worn" kinda look...
Raising the temperature of the metal (within Reason) with hot water or your shop oven might help the chemical reaction.
Sand with fine sandpaper work from 400 grit can go up to 1200 or 2000 grit than use jeweller's rouge for hard metal clean with alcohol 91% than nitro solvent dont touch with bare hands i usally blue it set it in an oven for 20 min at 200degrees i clean it with flannel cloth and nitro solvent works better
than steel wool repeat the process til you get desired finish wipe down with gun oil
Once you are buffing something, you have to grind it to get all the polishing down. You cant yust blue it. Polishing is a strong act to surfaces and makes them stronger. But to channge a surface with a chemical reaction you need a bare metal surface for an even finish. I think its the polishing marks that make your life hard there.
I've seen a video on UA-cam in which a gentleman blued a Ruger Mk4 hunter which was originally stainless steel and it worked good.
Of course I'm aware not all the gun metals or stainless steels are the same.
If I were you I'd go with a very light sand blast and then bluing. 😊
Had all mine covered in cerakote. Indestructible
He was supposed to polish it with wool, clean it with alcohol and rinse with cold water! Then apply the stuff let it sit for a min, rinse with cold water, polish with wool and repeat!!
THE LIQUID HAS TO SIT ON THE METAL 60SECONDS WET a sponge and leave it on the splotchy part. Or full a bag with the blue and drop the slide in
For 1 brother you didn't degrease it good enough I wouldn't have hit it with the Dremel and a degreed 60° sandpaper maybe 120 then I would have used a tupperware bowl or the primo blue in it and set the slide into it rather than touching and holding it and swapping it with that little q-tip I'm pretty sure if you did it that way it would look a lot more better. The problem is that that's a nickel plate high polish you need to get that doll before you start painting it a light bristle rub and degrease ain't going to work you have to get that polish Co off. It's so hard brother to keep watching you try to use that bristle pad and degreaser that's never going to work you need to get through that nickel-plated polish coat you have to send it down 2 doll until you do that it will never take and also you did have a great idea with heating it up and thrown in used oil motor oil which would have gave it a awesome design and similar blues
It helps to listen to him. First minute of the video he states he polished it. 120grit sand paper would make it look like shit.
Heat up the slide and dip in oil?😂 That could ruin the temper of the slide and cause it to crack.
Aren't you suppose to polish as you go with the steel wool?
I got similiar results on my Ruger57 slide, will the blueing cause problems with cerakote or paint
Looking good it's a learning process
You'll be good at it sooner or later
It's all Worth it at the end , more power to you .
You’re killing me bro!!! We need to be friends!🤣⚡️💥🔥💯⭐️👍
Looks like you didn’t clean off the oil so the blue will stick
Is that glock slide aluminum or steel?
mirror polished looks nice
This is honestly a really dope video lmao
Try to clean it with acetone before bluing to remove any oil
Cold bluing won't work on that material.
I would go with alumahyde from Brownells or duracoat or cerakoat for the best results.
I think it would look really cool fully blue. What a shame
I know, right!
@@ridersblock I want to try heating and quenching, but on something a little cheaper than a slide.
@@zac2384 maybe if I get enough "likes" I'll try it and capture the process.
Ok , the very first thing you must do is wash it down with industrial grade lacquer thinner , then soak it in the thinner over night to remove all traces of oil . Can use automotive brake cleaner , or equal. Then follow the directions on the bottle, use the blue& rust remover even if you don’t think there is any rust , because there could be in those little pit marks . Then becaus the blue does not stop the rusting process you finish with the soaking in oil 8-12 hrs , out in the sun or a hot environment, hot enough to barely hold, to open up the pours & let the oil in ; or the Birch Wood Casey Barricad process I have yet to do this last one myself .
AND , 1 more thing , isopropyl alcohol is not - denatured alcohol - which equals alcohol for fuel
No it is a ferrous metal.. ie iron containing or red rustable
Those aren’t heavy coats for you?
Use stainless steel tool black. It works way better.
Whats is the name of comical
Just grab some 2000 grit sand paper sand it and then aply the cold bluing stuff...
I’ve been down this road 😂😂😂
It didn’t work for me either 😂😂
Have to dip it in water and then coat with cooking oil
Would it have made a diff if you had heated the metal first?
short answer is no, the slide that would not accept oxidising seems to be impregnated with a wax.
He buffed wax into the pores of the steel with the buffing wheel and buffing wax. It takes something strong like brake cleaner to get that off.
Just try to do on other steel, it becomes really black
heating the part up just a bit can help
what did you do to remove the Glock dlc coating?
Dremel with a rubber grinding tip
Nice job
You could just send it in to glock and they will refinish it for like $50
هل هذا ملمع ام زيت
Suburge it fully in the blueing to get an even blue
Ps just leave it in till it starts to blue
You might just have to hot blue it cuz
It is a gen 4
Looked much better before
Can't blue a stainless steel slide.
It's not stainless
Flocks are made out of Austrian scrap metal 😂😂😂so it's stainless and carbon steel mixed there
Solution: apply cerakote.
Need to warm the slide
Use bronze wool
Perma blue always was a garbage, still is.
You need some cerakote
hellow sir can i ask u someting
about m16
Cant shine shit 😂
No one will like this but . . . . Don't touch it after degrease - not even with gloves. //ji
Birchwood Aluminium ... Сделаешь и все будет хорошо Брат 👌👌👌 Glook только так все 😉
Это ты кому оставил послание? Наверное себе, потому-что никто ничиго не поймет. Кстати я тоже не понял, что ты хотел сказать и причем здесь Birchwood Aluminum для стальной детали?
Is there ANY way I can blue an aluminum alloy 92fs beretta ?
Glocks are stainless
You really have no idea what your trying to do?????? Find a buddy that been in the Marines he will help you out a great deal.
DLC = Diamond Like Carbon
Warm up the slide
Pwd vha sa m16 boss
Rename the video how not to blue a slide.
Cerakote
You need to wet sand with 3000 then 50000
Lol
Better off getting cerakote job. Lol
Too polish
😕
You got to prime it first bro.
Not so ! Prime it with what ? The first thing you put on, after a thorough soaking in industrial paint thinner, or brake clean , to remove all oil is the blue - follow directions !
Looks like shit
tu a juste fait des taches c'est moche
Fail👎
Your supposed to rub it in back and forth it will blue as u are doing that u shouldn't have to wait .all u did was lightly slidevthe thing back and forth. Rub the blue in back and forth good
you did this little wrong. Take a look at guy who present this product from the company. You supposed to put the cleaner then sand then blue then you supposed to wash the slide. And repeat the process. You just put the blue. That’s why you have only places and not whole slide 🙂
Sail that failboat.
Dont want a glock for free, worst grips, worst sights, worts trigger pull, without all the xstra's it just looks like a peace of square tubing that you can buy at home depot
Thats chrome