Відео

I'm gonna guess that the steel wool had oil on it as a preservative. I know if you heat the metal, that will open the pores and it will be more acceptable to the bluing. But clean your steel wool or scotch brite which ever you use.

Thanks for showing us what not to do 😂

Hope you figured it out lol

Waaayy too much

Sand with fine sandpaper work from 400 grit can go up to 1200 or 2000 grit than use jeweller's rouge for hard metal clean with alcohol 91% than nitro solvent dont touch with bare hands i usally blue it set it in an oven for 20 min at 200degrees i clean it with flannel cloth and nitro solvent works better than steel wool repeat the process til you get desired finish wipe down with gun oil

Looks like shit

Too polish

Thats chrome

You’re killing me bro!!! We need to be friends!🤣⚡️💥🔥💯⭐️👍

Average retard UA-cam/SDI gunsmith

He was supposed to polish it with wool, clean it with alcohol and rinse with cold water! Then apply the stuff let it sit for a min, rinse with cold water, polish with wool and repeat!!

Looks like you didn’t clean off the oil so the blue will stick

Looks like dog shit

you did this little wrong. Take a look at guy who present this product from the company. You supposed to put the cleaner then sand then blue then you supposed to wash the slide. And repeat the process. You just put the blue. That’s why you have only places and not whole slide 🙂

it looks like shit

Is that glock slide aluminum or steel?

Raising the temperature of the metal (within Reason) with hot water or your shop oven might help the chemical reaction.

Solution: apply cerakote.

Warm up the slide

I’ve been down this road 😂😂😂 It didn’t work for me either 😂😂

The factory tennifer Glock coating is hard to beat. I would just cold blue over that. You need to degrease EVERY bit of wax and oil off using stronger chemicals such as brake cleaner and acetone. Personally I don't care what it looks like so much as it is protective against rust -especially on a carry gun. I live on a boat and my daily carry gun gets beat up by the saltwater and salt air. Every time I see any rust I strip the slide and buff all the rust off with a brass brush, degrease, and slather the cold blue over everything to add a new rust-resistant coating. I use lanolin oil/wax to protect and saturate the blue before buffing to a nice finish. This has to be done every couple of months to keep the rust at bay.

Perma blue always was a garbage, still is.

I wouldn’t call it a speed loader but if ur thumbs hurt after loading a lot of mags I get it

Aren't you suppose to polish as you go with the steel wool?

Sail that failboat.

Rename the video how not to blue a slide.

What’s that frame brother?

Try to clean it with acetone before bluing to remove any oil

Once you are buffing something, you have to grind it to get all the polishing down. You cant yust blue it. Polishing is a strong act to surfaces and makes them stronger. But to channge a surface with a chemical reaction you need a bare metal surface for an even finish. I think its the polishing marks that make your life hard there.

tu a juste fait des taches c'est moche

😕

هل هذا ملمع ام زيت

Cerakote

Dont want a glock for free, worst grips, worst sights, worts trigger pull, without all the xstra's it just looks like a peace of square tubing that you can buy at home depot

Glocks are stainless

Worked at Smith & Wesson a while ago. Best to heat the metal up with heat gun. Then blue.

Had all mine covered in cerakote. Indestructible

When I Blue gun parts I use brake cleaner to remove oil and grease off. It’s safe as long as it is only bare metal don’t use it if you have any parts still attached especially plastic parts. I have done quite a few guns and Had the same problem until I used Brake cleaner to rinse the parts needing blued

I've seen a video on UA-cam in which a gentleman blued a Ruger Mk4 hunter which was originally stainless steel and it worked good. Of course I'm aware not all the gun metals or stainless steels are the same. If I were you I'd go with a very light sand blast and then bluing. 😊

Looked much better before

You need to wet sand with 3000 then 50000

No one will like this but . . . . Don't touch it after degrease - not even with gloves. //ji

You need some cerakote

Yo Riders lock, after watching your video here and from over 20 years gunsmithing, I'd like to add my 2npence worth, the Birch wood case product does work but things are not that simple, instructions on these sets reads quite plain and simple but doesn't tell you anything about the surface you yourself have prepped, over the past hood few years I've used permablu, superbue, and the gel and each time has resulted in a different coverage, it's down to the type of metal, it's purity, if it's an alloy and how you have prepped the metal, Never use regular wax based buffing wheel compounds, metal is a porous surface, I believe wax is the main issue to your problem here specifically and waxes are very difficult to get out of polished metals, when your buffing for the best possible surface you are applying wax and heat from buffing which impregnates the metal with oils from the wax, so what is the remedy to this problem? It's petroleum or diesel and you'll need to warm the slide to around 50 degrees c and submerge the slide in one of these fules do begin degreasing it first off. Do not try to replicate a high sheen glossy blue because this is only achieved by hot bluing and never cold blue acids, you can reapply and with 0000 gauge wire wool repeatedly rub down after every blu application for a better and deeper sheen buts that's as good as it gets... until you then soak metal work with oil, which will bring a deep and dark with a much lesser patchy result, I recommend silicone oil. The ideal metal surface such as barrels and top slides should be bone dry, matt, to lightly brushed, never had any oils lay on it or ever been wax buffed, basically raw metal that looks like it's about to rust on its own anyway! And then making sure its clean, warm the past up with a blow torch until it feels warm, not hot but warm to ntouch, and now is the time to apply bluing and done so liberally, you want want run marks but you have to pay down large quantities fast and as smoothly as possible (imagine trying to cover a canvas with espresso coffee without getting any streak marks), once first application is done leave for exactly 1 minute and then very lightly (1 hair and some air) wipe over the piece under running cold water, pat dry and repeat (6x as a good standard bench mark) what you should find is a very pale, patchy and dull finish, now it's time for liberal coatings of silicone oil, resting the part in the oil, wiping it off and leaving oil on it for at least the first few usages, it will always need an oil application and barrier products work well. There is no need to chuck the slide away or get out a grinder to get that patchy bluing off, a buffing wheel with no compound or a water based compound will buff off the bluing! So, you back in square 1,what should you do? Degrease this top. Slide with gasoline, petroleum and wire wool at a fine grade such as 0000,rinse and repeat, you can use soaps in between and end up with a matt looking brushed slide, now your ready for bluing the cold blu way, an alternative is to prep and use browning first and then with a cold. Blue final. Application. Hope y'all can can read what I'm typing because I can't, for some reason after 39 words my yt comment box turns black and I can't see anything I write! Anyway.... Good luck, don't give up on it, and make sure you show anyone else the improvements. Clod bluing is a real bitch!

Flocks are made out of Austrian scrap metal 😂😂😂so it's stainless and carbon steel mixed there

Need to warm the slide

Use stainless steel tool black. It works way better.

You really have no idea what your trying to do?????? Find a buddy that been in the Marines he will help you out a great deal.

Better off getting cerakote job. Lol

Man u just wasting time and money