The bleeder screw is superfluous on vehicles, like yours; that have the expansion tanks. The 4.7L comes with the bleeder screw because the engine is sometimes used on vehicles that don't have exspansion tanks. You can help it along if you pop the expansion tank lid when full cold for the first few days after refilling. Make sure you run the heater until it puts out hot air. If it doesn't, you may have a clog in the heater core. When gas no longer escapes when you pop the lid at full cold, you're done.
Also folks remember to use only coolant that is HOAT coolant. It is usually orange or red. Whatever you do don't mix the orange or red coolant with green coolant it will cause you major problems in the future. It plainly states this in your owners manual.
Dude you forgot to put thread sealer on the bleeder screw cap!!!! Under that high pressure it's both called for by the manufacturer and necessary! Also, for anyone else reading: the bleeder comes off with an allen key. It may be necessary to create a larger lever to crack open the bleeder, as in my case. Finally USE THE LARGEST SIZED FUNNEL TO AVOID LOSING ALL OF YOUR ANTI-FREEZE. You can actively pour coolant into the funnel: the added hydrolic weight will tend to also help push out the air bubbles
I done this today on my ram 1500 and my heat isn't very hot. Guess I still have some air in the system. I've let it run with the blender screw open for 30 minutes
Update, I ended up selling the truck and the person who bought it said it had a blown head gasket after they drove it home. I guess that’s why I had air in the system. But as long as I bled it every so often it didn’t seem to be an issue so it must’ve been just starting to go bad. I had it in the shop right before I sold it and they said the head gasket was fine so 🤷🏼♂️. Either way I got much more than I bought it for and it had 250 K on the Dash so i got my $$$ worth. I upgraded to a ram rebel with a hemi now 😉.
Thanks for vid. So you don't need to do the funnel/burping method? Also when bleeding air through bleeder bolt do you keep your radiator cap tightened on through the whole process and just top off radiator fluid at the very end? (I left rad. cap on because fluid was gushing out of both ends with both open)
It’s been a while since I did this. Most or all the air should come out of the bleeder screw. I never bothered with the funnel. I left rad cap on while I was bleeding and just topped off the rad after. If you take rad cap off while bleeder screw is open then coolant will come gushing out.
@@MotorheadLars this is true. I was bleeding it with both off and coolant was gushing out the bleeder screw port. Maybe I’ll do just the bleeder screw this time
I did this exactly but it overheated in the process and started spraying out coolant and I had to shut off the motor and now I’m kinda lost on what to do
That happened to me once too. Close that screw before it overheats after the majority of the air is out. Also make sure your radiator cap is on or it will spray out of there. If it still does overheat you may need to start considering a thermostat or worst case, head gasket.
@@MotorheadLars I had a lot of air in the system because it’s never been bled until I found out about this video. It only overheated after spraying a bunch of coolant out. Possibly draining it to the point of there not being enough coolant to keep the motor warm. I did it a different way and got all of the air out of the system and now I get heat in my vents almost immediately and it runs at a lower temp than the middle tick
@@_Evil_SS_ I just leave the setscrew in loose enough to let air bubbles out. I fill it until it reaches that spot with flow then put screw back in loose. Worked fine. Cant have it open water pump forces it all out.
Hi, I have Jeep WJ 4.7 today I tried to remove all the air bubbles, it took me 2 hours and I couldn't remove all the bubbles, I had to leave. Do I have to repeat this later? Is this sure to help remove all the air bubbles? But maybe i have head gasket leak? :((
BELIEVE ME SO PEOPLE ! Many times it's not as easy as it sounds or as it looks . Bleeding job might not always be the problem for overheating vehicle's and many time's the Bleeding plug screw can be old stripped or junk very tight and a pain too unscrew
It will lose some as the air bleeds out of the bleeder screw. So you’ll need to refill when it’s all done. Be careful when opening the cap. If you take the rad cap off while bleeding and bleed screw is open it loses pressure and a bunch of coolant. So If you leave the rad cap on when bleeding you won’t lose nearly as much.
The bleeder screw is superfluous on vehicles, like yours; that have the expansion tanks. The 4.7L comes with the bleeder screw because the engine is sometimes used on vehicles that don't have exspansion tanks. You can help it along if you pop the expansion tank lid when full cold for the first few days after refilling. Make sure you run the heater until it puts out hot air. If it doesn't, you may have a clog in the heater core. When gas no longer escapes when you pop the lid at full cold, you're done.
Also folks remember to use only coolant that is HOAT coolant. It is usually orange or red. Whatever you do don't mix the orange or red coolant with green coolant it will cause you major problems in the future. It plainly states this in your owners manual.
Yep, I believe mine was the G05 yellow Chrysler stuff. Got it at Wally world for pretty cheap.
Dude you forgot to put thread sealer on the bleeder screw cap!!!! Under that high pressure it's both called for by the manufacturer and necessary! Also, for anyone else reading: the bleeder comes off with an allen key. It may be necessary to create a larger lever to crack open the bleeder, as in my case. Finally USE THE LARGEST SIZED FUNNEL TO AVOID LOSING ALL OF YOUR ANTI-FREEZE. You can actively pour coolant into the funnel: the added hydrolic weight will tend to also help push out the air bubbles
Good call I guess I got lucky because mine never leaked ha ha and I ended up selling the truck anyway.
Not sure what you mean by hydraulic waight ?
The weight hydrogen has molecularly...... combined with half part oxygen.
Thank you. This is the exact information I needed to solve a problem for my customer.
Thanks for the advice, it sprayed a little bit but I let it cool down and did it again and so far so good. We have heat.
Good to hear!
I done this today on my ram 1500 and my heat isn't very hot. Guess I still have some air in the system. I've let it run with the blender screw open for 30 minutes
Update, I ended up selling the truck and the person who bought it said it had a blown head gasket after they drove it home. I guess that’s why I had air in the system. But as long as I bled it every so often it didn’t seem to be an issue so it must’ve been just starting to go bad. I had it in the shop right before I sold it and they said the head gasket was fine so 🤷🏼♂️. Either way I got much more than I bought it for and it had 250 K on the Dash so i got my $$$ worth. I upgraded to a ram rebel with a hemi now 😉.
Will it blow the motor if you don’t let the air out??
Si el tapón de purga ya está muy dañado y no sale, por dónde más se puede purgar?
My truck heats up at idle like over, almost to red, I just replaced the thermostat and filled it and bled the system but still over heating
Same
Thanks for vid. So you don't need to do the funnel/burping method?
Also when bleeding air through bleeder bolt do you keep your radiator cap tightened on through the whole process and just top off radiator fluid at the very end?
(I left rad. cap on because fluid was gushing out of both ends with both open)
It’s been a while since I did this. Most or all the air should come out of the bleeder screw. I never bothered with the funnel. I left rad cap on while I was bleeding and just topped off the rad after. If you take rad cap off while bleeder screw is open then coolant will come gushing out.
@@MotorheadLars thanks that's what I thought just wasn't sure id you screwed rad cap on or just kinda left it in place
@@MotorheadLars this is true. I was bleeding it with both off and coolant was gushing out the bleeder screw port. Maybe I’ll do just the bleeder screw this time
How is no coolant coming out of that bleeder hole with the bolt out?...
My truck radiator doesn’t have the Radiator Cap just the Reservoir Tank do I also leave it closed while the bleeder is open?
I did this exactly but it overheated in the process and started spraying out coolant and I had to shut off the motor and now I’m kinda lost on what to do
That happened to me once too. Close that screw before it overheats after the majority of the air is out. Also make sure your radiator cap is on or it will spray out of there. If it still does overheat you may need to start considering a thermostat or worst case, head gasket.
You could also have blockage somewhere in the system so make sure you’ve got heat coming out of the vents with heater on.
@@MotorheadLars I had a lot of air in the system because it’s never been bled until I found out about this video. It only overheated after spraying a bunch of coolant out. Possibly draining it to the point of there not being enough coolant to keep the motor warm. I did it a different way and got all of the air out of the system and now I get heat in my vents almost immediately and it runs at a lower temp than the middle tick
Nice yeah I had to do mine. Shut it off top off the coolant and do it again a few times before I got all the air out. Good deal man.
How’s you do it a different way? I have the same problem it just gushes when I go to start it up!? When the bleeder screw is off
How do people take the set screw out and not have the geyser of water flowing out? Mine turns into a geyser. Do you only fill the system half way?
Any follow up too this? Having same issue
@@_Evil_SS_ I just leave the setscrew in loose enough to let air bubbles out. I fill it until it reaches that spot with flow then put screw back in loose. Worked fine. Cant have it open water pump forces it all out.
How does this guy in the video have it open then with the truck running and it doesn't come out?...
Hi, I have Jeep WJ 4.7 today I tried to remove all the air bubbles, it took me 2 hours and I couldn't remove all the bubbles, I had to leave. Do I have to repeat this later? Is this sure to help remove all the air bubbles? But maybe i have head gasket leak? :((
My heat is hot. But for some reason my 04 ram is only taking 4 quarts of premix
Where can I find a new engine coolant bleeder screw for my 2013 ram 1500 4.7l engine, mine is rounded and I can't get it off
Check Amazon and eBay I’m sure they’ve got one
I had that happen to me I went to a local hose and fitting company and I believe it's a 1/2 size screw. I got 2 and they are made out of brass
BELIEVE ME SO PEOPLE ! Many times it's not as easy as it sounds or as it looks . Bleeding job might not always be the problem for overheating vehicle's and many time's the Bleeding plug screw can be old stripped or junk very tight and a pain too unscrew
Mine keeps bubbling even after 20 minutes.
So keep rad cap on? Won’t it loose coolant?
It will lose some as the air bleeds out of the bleeder screw. So you’ll need to refill when it’s all done. Be careful when opening the cap. If you take the rad cap off while bleeding and bleed screw is open it loses pressure and a bunch of coolant. So If you leave the rad cap on when bleeding you won’t lose nearly as much.