Wanting to share some of the journey of mods to my 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7. The 180 thermostat was installed after talking more with the performance community in an effort to help control short term and long term knock retard. This is a balancing act to keep sufficient heat in the combustion chamber, but not allow too much heat which contributes to more spark knock. Also, please remember this truck has a custom ECU tune by Hemifever to take advantage of the cooler engine temps.
Unless you have a forced induction mod with a custom tune changing to a cooler t-stat has basically NO Effect except to confuse the computer as it reads it to open @ 195. The minuscule gains and fuel economy losses amount to very little however if you have an azzhole environmental state on your azz this really affects that badly cause it is an incomplete burn of the extra fuel confused by the wrong t-stat opening until it reaches above 195. Unless you are towing HEAVY loads (meaning way over the recommended tow capacity) the heat load is minimal and this mod should only be done with a Forced induction mod or a heat increase due to heavy towing. Other than that the benefits are negligible at best and the fuel economy (yea right we running v8's really care about that 🤑 ) is a net minimal loss. These ARE the facts are are not disputed amongst any Expert forum advisor. Just saying.
@@anonimous2451 I will say you are entitled to your comments, but I got a good laugh for sure. This truck with the mods on it and the hemifever custom tune, absolutely loves this t-stat change. It consistently stays b/w 188 - 190 degrees and your comment about confusing the computer is not the case at all. This truck is proof, along with thousands of other hemi owners running these mods with hemifever custom tunes. The plugs look so much better than before these mods to top it off. Your "facts" about doing this only for forced induction or pulling Heavy loads is also misleading. This truck does at times pull a bass boat and the temps never rise above 190 and I live in a very hot, humid coastal climate. Wait, if this mod is ok for trucks that tow heavy loads, am I supposed to run out and put the stock thermostat back in when I am not pulling a heavy load??? I mean, if I don't and I am not pulling a heavy load, then the computer will be all confused and my gas mileage will suffer and I will eventual foul the plugs... LOL. Not true!! Also, the truck with the custom tune, cooler temps and other mods actually improved MPG by nearly 2 MPG around town and the highway. The motor oil is also clean and the oil temps dropped about 12 degrees when at full operating temps. Just giving you the FACTS about this 2013 RAM 1500 Hemi 5.7.
@@KevinWilsonSBCthen why do you think Dodge puts the hotter thermostat in there? I mean I think you make total sense and it seems like to me if you can run an engine cooler you'd want to run it cooler. . Your oil looking better makes total sense to . Heat is what kills oil and fluid. So why don't they put a 180 in?. I was told the hotter thermostat is because of engines efficiency. Basically gas mileage
@@ClaytonBigsby01 great question! It is all emissions driven. Remember this truck has a cold air kit, aftermarket exhaust and a performance tune from hemifever. I wanted more timing for power and pulling, to turn off the MDS on the computer and to not run the oil and heads so hot with the factory 205 degree thermostat to help eliminate spark knocking. The engine loves the cooler temps and more timing, the oil loves it and the engine stays around 185 to 190 coolant temps! Not to mention with the improved timing and MDS turned off, the gas mileage is actually better and the plugs are very happy. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Don't forget to burp every time you empty and fill with coolant anytime the block is empty you must burp the block. The burp location is located behind the thermostat it's an allen wrench size unscrew it till you have coolant coming out, screw it backing then you have less air in the block. Very important!!
When I replace a thermostat on a vehicle, I don’t drain the rad. I just go straight to take the housing and thermostat off. Just make sure I have a pan to catch the fluid that drains out. I’m no expert auto mechanic, but I feel like if I don’t drain the radiator, it will be easier to bleed the vehicle. The jiggle pin inside the thermostat will help burp the vehicle. Make sure the pin is 12:00. Thanks for the video
Very cost effective way to flush entire system would’ve been simply remove thermostat, get enough distilled water in buckets, hook pump/hose and fill the system & drain, next remove lower radiator hose so you not introducing sediments into Rad through water cycling through HC as you drain the block and repeat this after a drive and flush fully with distilled water. From your procedure you spent enough $$$ plus extra time many days not needed but results I’m sure still paid off. Most easiest way to get air out of the system would’ve been to simply open the bleeder valve on water pump or if not equipped to remove ECT sensor as you fill/close. Start her up get to operating temps, slowly open bleeder screw and left over air is out! Great vid, very detailed🍻
Thanks for the tips this is the video I was looking for ! Had all the info and things I was concerned about ! Including the small holes in the thermostat!
Only one very small hole is needed in the thermostat. It only needs to let air through. To big and it will increase the time it takes for the engine to warm up. This will lead to excessive fuel consumption and cause very poor heater performance. Ask me how I know. Hope this helps.
If you live in cold climate areas? Only one hole is needed. When its -40, heat it your friend. These trucks were designed to run at around 203 degrees F. My old weak stat would cycle from 176F TO 203F and you noticed it in how poorly the defrosters work when its -40 f below.
For each pound on the rad cap, it raises the boiling point 2.5 degrees F, so your new boiling point would be 252 degrees F. Used to live in the desert. 205, yeah, it caught our attention but you knew it wasn't going to boil the system. No matter what, if it hits 220, I'm shutting down. That's my preference, and I don't like it over 200. But some blocks just run hotter. Did you a know a 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring pack brings operating temp down? Much more so than than the 5/64 pack. Working on determining if they rock in the piston bore. Enjoy.
nolan engineering thanks so much for your comments! Good info! Thanks for posting and sharing. Sorry for late response, but thank-you!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Why not drain the block and heater core hoses after all the other work. The passengers side block drain plug is fairly easy to get to. The drivers side is pretty damn difficult if not impossible for the home mechanic.
Can any body in the comments tell me if the reservoirs on these trucks actually refill the radiator if it runs low? To me it looks the the cap seals off the over flow line to the reservoir and only opens if its too hot. How would the reservoir ever go back into the radiator?
You're dead wrong there. Ask a plumber what happens to pumps and metal components if you contaminate a system or fill with tap water on a in floor heating system. It says distilled water for a reason. Don't be a cheap ass and pay the $20 to do it properly before you toast a water pump or thermostat at the cheapest, or toast/seize something at the worst due to a potential daisy chain failure down the line...
Running a cooler thermostat will KILL you gas milage. Because the engine will not reach proper operating temperature. So the computer will keep the engine in cold start up mode.
Using the method I show in this video, the engine temp stays at 185 degrees and with the Hemifever tune we have actually picked up 1 - 1.5 MPG all day long. It is my understanding the computer comes out of "cold" richness around 160.
@@KevinWilsonSBC wow. I didn't expect that. Very cool. My water pump went out. I replaced the thermostat because it was so easily accessable. They auto store gave me a bad one, because my coolant circulates but the engine was over heating. I took it out, to drive back to the store. The truck never got above 185, and it was mid 80 degrees in Indiana today. But I only drove it a few miles. Do you think my truck (5.7 hemi) could benefit from a cooler thermostat?
I did this to my 2016 dodge challenger 5.7rt. And check engine light come on and said check throttle something and my temperature needle disappear . 🤔 I put three hole in my thermostat you put 4
Sorry to hear that!! I didn't have those issues at all on my 2013 RAM Hemi 5.7 which has a custom tune installed. I have had to replace the throttle body once since it owning it, but the thermostat and cooling wasn't related to the throttle trouble code I had. You can always put it back to stock.
I appreciate the tips and tricks! But for god's sake, don't dump toxic coolant all over the place. It's straight lazy and terrible for the environment. Catch it in a pan or pail and take it to a waste station or mechanic for proper disposal. 🤘
Did you program the radiator fan to come on at 185? If not, the cts will have it turn on at 203°F, which is oem settings. My jeep 5.7 requires this, but if you have a clutch fan. Ya might look into a different fan clutch.
My '03 ram Hemi has an over flow line on the coolant resvoir that points down. I believe I don't need to burp it since that line would let out air by itself. Please let me know if I'm wrong. My 180* thermostat stays where it should be on the temp gauge. Let me know, thanks!
You should be good. My truck was heating up to over 200 at full throttle. Once I did this procedure and the flush, that problem went away. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hey Kevin, Good job on the flushing. I also have same exact truck(2013 Bighorn) and original coolant in mine. Was wondering if you got any SES lights or warning lights from the computer for having a 180 degree thermostat? I live in Texas and was thinking of changing antifreeze and thermostat at same time, thanks
I have had zero issues with any warning lights or SES lights. I do have a tune which modified the fan to turn on at a lower temp. The truck settles in around 186 degrees which is plenty hot enough for emissions and I live in Charleston, SC which is really hot and humid. Even without a tune, I would highly recommend the flush and 180 thermostat! Go Fast, go straight! Be Safe!
You need the metal piece to keep the gasket shape and hold it in place. Without the metal piece the rubber can squeeze out of place. That would be not smart.
On a 2012 Ram 5.7 the thermostat gasket accounts for the thickness of the thermostat flange, if there is no thermostat flange the gasket sinks further into the thermostat cavity. I don’t think there is a need to remove the thermostat to flush clean the system a few times though since the thermostat open about 1/2 inch allow for large particles to flow. Let me know if I am wrong.
@@gerardr4869 not removing the thermostat to flush means a LOT of trash, grime and rust will get caught up in it. It takes more work to remove that junk than the thermostat, which likely needs replaced around the time you replace the coolant... Every two years or 30,000 miles.
Advanced Auto has a regular flat gasket for thermostat housing on my 2005 hemi. I used it. Did flush as this video shows then reinstalled thermostat. Bleeder port on thermostat needs to be installed vertical (high point) when re-installing. Overall I enjoy everyone's way of doing a job. I can always learn something from all. Safe motoring to all you cats.
All you have to do is remove the bleeder , and fill through the radiator till coolant comes out . Done... just top off overflow tank . This is waaay to complicated a way to remove air .
Ok Ok thanks so much for your comments! I didn't try to remove the block drains. I just kept flushing with water, driving, then flushing with more water, driving, and repeat several times with heater on. This process eventually removes the old antifreeze. If you removed the drain plugs on the block, most of the time rust and grime will plug the hole. Take a small flat head or pick to clean out the hole and it should drain. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
santiago mercant thanks so much for your question! I would encourage you to confirm with your owner's manual for your specific year and engine combo. I did not do a full block drain, but did several water flushes at the radiator with heater on full hot, then flush, repeat. After several of those I am pretty confident I had sufficiently flushed the heater core and the block. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
EVERYBODY TALKS ABOUT USING DISTILLED WATER…LOL, DO YOU THINK THAT (ANY) DEALERSHIP ON THE PLANET USES (DISTILLED WATER), WHEN DOING A COOLANT FLUSH? PEOPLE HAVE WAY TO MUCH TIME ON THEIR HANDS!
LOL... I have absolutely used tap water when I don't have distilled water on-hand. You do whatever you want and how you want it. The proper thing here is distilled water, especially considering the amount of "additives" in most county supplied tap water. We are supposed to torque lug nuts too, but most people don't, however it doesn't make not torquing lug nuts the right thing to do. It is always interesting how youtubers like you can take the time to leave comments like this, but have ZERO content on UA-cam to contribute to helping others. Must be a lonely way to go about consuming oxygen!
@@KevinWilsonSBCmy thought while doing mine is use a hose garden hose to do a through flush, use coolant flush, etc, then after I drain all the tap and fill with distilled, drain, then refill with coolant/distilled. Should be good! Besides, after flush I replaced the pump, T-stat, and both main hoses lol.
What would happen if I don’t burp the air out of the coolant system the way you did with a funnel? … I was wondering if air will eventually get to the top of the radiator where I can just open the cap and let the air out.
@@gerardr4869 if you don't bleed all the air out of the coolant system, the coolant will not be able to flow properly and will not cool the block, resulting in a much higher chance of catastrophic failure.
Yeah... my channel has way too much instructional info for your liking. LOL! Take care and appreciate the comment and keeping it so brief with as few of words as necessary.🤣
Wanting to share some of the journey of mods to my 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7. The 180 thermostat was installed after talking more with the performance community in an effort to help control short term and long term knock retard. This is a balancing act to keep sufficient heat in the combustion chamber, but not allow too much heat which contributes to more spark knock. Also, please remember this truck has a custom ECU tune by Hemifever to take advantage of the cooler engine temps.
Unless you have a forced induction mod with a custom tune changing to a cooler t-stat has basically NO Effect except to confuse the computer as it reads it to open @ 195. The minuscule gains and fuel economy losses amount to very little however if you have an azzhole environmental state on your azz this really affects that badly cause it is an incomplete burn of the extra fuel confused by the wrong t-stat opening until it reaches above 195. Unless you are towing HEAVY loads (meaning way over the recommended tow capacity) the heat load is minimal and this mod should only be done with a Forced induction mod or a heat increase due to heavy towing. Other than that the benefits are negligible at best and the fuel economy (yea right we running v8's really care about that 🤑 ) is a net minimal loss. These ARE the facts are are not disputed amongst any Expert forum advisor. Just saying.
@@anonimous2451 I will say you are entitled to your comments, but I got a good laugh for sure. This truck with the mods on it and the hemifever custom tune, absolutely loves this t-stat change. It consistently stays b/w 188 - 190 degrees and your comment about confusing the computer is not the case at all. This truck is proof, along with thousands of other hemi owners running these mods with hemifever custom tunes. The plugs look so much better than before these mods to top it off. Your "facts" about doing this only for forced induction or pulling Heavy loads is also misleading. This truck does at times pull a bass boat and the temps never rise above 190 and I live in a very hot, humid coastal climate. Wait, if this mod is ok for trucks that tow heavy loads, am I supposed to run out and put the stock thermostat back in when I am not pulling a heavy load??? I mean, if I don't and I am not pulling a heavy load, then the computer will be all confused and my gas mileage will suffer and I will eventual foul the plugs... LOL. Not true!! Also, the truck with the custom tune, cooler temps and other mods actually improved MPG by nearly 2 MPG around town and the highway. The motor oil is also clean and the oil temps dropped about 12 degrees when at full operating temps. Just giving you the FACTS about this 2013 RAM 1500 Hemi 5.7.
@@KevinWilsonSBCthen why do you think Dodge puts the hotter thermostat in there? I mean I think you make total sense and it seems like to me if you can run an engine cooler you'd want to run it cooler. . Your oil looking better makes total sense to . Heat is what kills oil and fluid. So why don't they put a 180 in?. I was told the hotter thermostat is because of engines efficiency. Basically gas mileage
@@ClaytonBigsby01 great question! It is all emissions driven. Remember this truck has a cold air kit, aftermarket exhaust and a performance tune from hemifever. I wanted more timing for power and pulling, to turn off the MDS on the computer and to not run the oil and heads so hot with the factory 205 degree thermostat to help eliminate spark knocking. The engine loves the cooler temps and more timing, the oil loves it and the engine stays around 185 to 190 coolant temps! Not to mention with the improved timing and MDS turned off, the gas mileage is actually better and the plugs are very happy. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBCquién eres
Don't forget to burp every time you empty and fill with coolant anytime the block is empty you must burp the block. The burp location is located behind the thermostat it's an allen wrench size unscrew it till you have coolant coming out, screw it backing then you have less air in the block. Very important!!
When I replace a thermostat on a vehicle, I don’t drain the rad. I just go straight to take the housing and thermostat off. Just make sure I have a pan to catch the fluid that drains out. I’m no expert auto mechanic, but I feel like if I don’t drain the radiator, it will be easier to bleed the vehicle. The jiggle pin inside the thermostat will help burp the vehicle. Make sure the pin is 12:00. Thanks for the video
Very cost effective way to flush entire system would’ve been simply remove thermostat, get enough distilled water in buckets, hook pump/hose and fill the system & drain, next remove lower radiator hose so you not introducing sediments into Rad through water cycling through HC as you drain the block and repeat this after a drive and flush fully with distilled water. From your procedure you spent enough $$$ plus extra time many days not needed but results I’m sure still paid off. Most easiest way to get air out of the system would’ve been to simply open the bleeder valve on water pump or if not equipped to remove ECT sensor as you fill/close. Start her up get to operating temps, slowly open bleeder screw and left over air is out! Great vid, very detailed🍻
Just did this exact repair on my 13 Ram 5.7, this video was an AWESOME double check for me. Great video and great work Kevin. Thank you
Glad it helped! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
This video should be the #1 refered video when searching on info. Thanks man
Thanks for the tips this is the video I was looking for ! Had all the info and things I was concerned about ! Including the small holes in the thermostat!
You dont have to hack up a thermostat, you simply remove the rubber gasket and place it in the water pump. Seals perfectly
Exactly what I was gonna say
With a old water pump doesn’t work on a brand new one
👍👍👍
It worked perfectly!
I subscribed 🙏
Only one very small hole is needed in the thermostat. It only needs to let air through. To big and it will increase the time it takes for the engine to warm up. This will lead to excessive fuel consumption and cause very poor heater performance. Ask me how I know. Hope this helps.
If you live in cold climate areas? Only one hole is needed. When its -40, heat it your friend. These trucks were designed to run at around 203 degrees F. My old weak stat would cycle from 176F TO 203F and you noticed it in how poorly the defrosters work when its -40 f below.
another thing to try is a vacuum fill. Just need an air compressor. Lots of good videos on this process.
Thanks for this video bud. It's going to help me a lot. Appreciate it!
For each pound on the rad cap, it raises the boiling point 2.5 degrees F, so your new boiling point would be 252 degrees F.
Used to live in the desert. 205, yeah, it caught our attention but you knew it wasn't going to boil the system. No matter what, if it hits 220, I'm shutting down. That's my preference, and I don't like it over 200. But some blocks just run hotter. Did you a know a 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring pack brings operating temp down? Much more so than than the 5/64 pack. Working on determining if they rock in the piston bore. Enjoy.
nolan engineering thanks so much for your comments! Good info! Thanks for posting and sharing. Sorry for late response, but thank-you!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Why not drain the block and heater core hoses after all the other work. The passengers side block drain plug is fairly easy to get to. The drivers side is pretty damn difficult if not impossible for the home mechanic.
Excellent video. To the point .. thank you.
Can any body in the comments tell me if the reservoirs on these trucks actually refill the radiator if it runs low? To me it looks the the cap seals off the over flow line to the reservoir and only opens if its too hot. How would the reservoir ever go back into the radiator?
I have in my 2015 4x4 ram the ABS system logo on and service electronic braking message
What. Should I Do?
Someone told me about changing a module
How’s it running today? I have the same truck and want to try that thermostat. Do you recommend it today? Thanks
Flushing with tap water is fine. Even well water is fine. Id just ude the distilled to fill it. Flushing isn't going to leave deposits.
JustForFun77077 thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
You're dead wrong there. Ask a plumber what happens to pumps and metal components if you contaminate a system or fill with tap water on a in floor heating system. It says distilled water for a reason. Don't be a cheap ass and pay the $20 to do it properly before you toast a water pump or thermostat at the cheapest, or toast/seize something at the worst due to a potential daisy chain failure down the line...
Running a cooler thermostat will KILL you gas milage. Because the engine will not reach proper operating temperature. So the computer will keep the engine in cold start up mode.
Using the method I show in this video, the engine temp stays at 185 degrees and with the Hemifever tune we have actually picked up 1 - 1.5 MPG all day long. It is my understanding the computer comes out of "cold" richness around 160.
@@KevinWilsonSBC wow. I didn't expect that. Very cool. My water pump went out. I replaced the thermostat because it was so easily accessable. They auto store gave me a bad one, because my coolant circulates but the engine was over heating. I took it out, to drive back to the store. The truck never got above 185, and it was mid 80 degrees in Indiana today. But I only drove it a few miles. Do you think my truck (5.7 hemi) could benefit from a cooler thermostat?
Aren’t they designed to run at 205-225.
I did this to my 2016 dodge challenger 5.7rt. And check engine light come on and said check throttle something and my temperature needle disappear . 🤔 I put three hole in my thermostat you put 4
Sorry to hear that!! I didn't have those issues at all on my 2013 RAM Hemi 5.7 which has a custom tune installed. I have had to replace the throttle body once since it owning it, but the thermostat and cooling wasn't related to the throttle trouble code I had. You can always put it back to stock.
I appreciate the tips and tricks! But for god's sake, don't dump toxic coolant all over the place. It's straight lazy and terrible for the environment. Catch it in a pan or pail and take it to a waste station or mechanic for proper disposal. 🤘
Did you program the radiator fan to come on at 185? If not, the cts will have it turn on at 203°F, which is oem settings. My jeep 5.7 requires this, but if you have a clutch fan. Ya might look into a different fan clutch.
Is that Mopar coolant orange or purple? Great video and instructions by the way 👍🏽
Mopar coolent for older vehicles are Orange. Newer supercharged charger/challengers Hellcat etc use Purple.
My '03 ram Hemi has an over flow line on the coolant resvoir that points down. I believe I don't need to burp it since that line would let out air by itself. Please let me know if I'm wrong. My 180* thermostat stays where it should be on the temp gauge. Let me know, thanks!
You should be good. My truck was heating up to over 200 at full throttle. Once I did this procedure and the flush, that problem went away. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC appreciate your reply! Like wise!
is it possible that a radiator on this truck may crack, if not properly burbed of air?
No the coolant will boil out the reservoir if you don't bleed the air if you don't catch it in time you will overheat the motor
Hey can you link where you got the 180 thermostat please
Hey Kevin, Good job on the flushing. I also have same exact truck(2013 Bighorn) and original coolant in mine. Was wondering if you got any SES lights or warning lights from the computer for having a 180 degree thermostat? I live in Texas and was thinking of changing antifreeze and thermostat at same time, thanks
I have had zero issues with any warning lights or SES lights. I do have a tune which modified the fan to turn on at a lower temp. The truck settles in around 186 degrees which is plenty hot enough for emissions and I live in Charleston, SC which is really hot and humid. Even without a tune, I would highly recommend the flush and 180 thermostat! Go Fast, go straight! Be Safe!
good info
old man in the shop built not bought thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Why did you modify the thermostat when you could of just used the rubber gasket from the thermostat to flush system.. not smart
OK... yeah... Have a good one! LOL!
You need the metal piece to keep the gasket shape and hold it in place. Without the metal piece the rubber can squeeze out of place. That would be not smart.
On a 2012 Ram 5.7 the thermostat gasket accounts for the thickness of the thermostat flange, if there is no thermostat flange the gasket sinks further into the thermostat cavity. I don’t think there is a need to remove the thermostat to flush clean the system a few times though since the thermostat open about 1/2 inch allow for large particles to flow.
Let me know if I am wrong.
@@gerardr4869 not removing the thermostat to flush means a LOT of trash, grime and rust will get caught up in it. It takes more work to remove that junk than the thermostat, which likely needs replaced around the time you replace the coolant... Every two years or 30,000 miles.
Advanced Auto has a regular flat gasket for thermostat housing on my 2005 hemi. I used it. Did flush as this video shows then reinstalled thermostat. Bleeder port on thermostat needs to be installed vertical (high point) when re-installing. Overall I enjoy everyone's way of doing a job. I can always learn something from all. Safe motoring to all you cats.
What color is that antifreeze?
100000 miles n runs hot😂🤦♂️ a ford would never
Where are the locations of the block drains at?
Chris Thomas thanks so much for your comments! behind the motor mount and a couple inches above the oil pan. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
All you have to do is remove the bleeder , and fill through the radiator till coolant comes out . Done... just top off overflow tank . This is waaay to complicated a way to remove air .
I can't get the engine block to drain. 4 quarts/liters came out. That's it.
Ok Ok thanks so much for your comments! I didn't try to remove the block drains. I just kept flushing with water, driving, then flushing with more water, driving, and repeat several times with heater on. This process eventually removes the old antifreeze. If you removed the drain plugs on the block, most of the time rust and grime will plug the hole. Take a small flat head or pick to clean out the hole and it should drain. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I have the same exact truck 🤣🤣
`I accidentally put some rain x (+/- 1 qt) in my radiator. Will this hurt system? Thanks 🙏🏻
George thanks so much for your comments! Sorry for late reply, but I would get that flushed out for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
How much coolant it takes in total? Thank you
santiago mercant thanks so much for your question! I would encourage you to confirm with your owner's manual for your specific year and engine combo. I did not do a full block drain, but did several water flushes at the radiator with heater on full hot, then flush, repeat. After several of those I am pretty confident I had sufficiently flushed the heater core and the block. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Would I have to tune my truck if I install the 180 tstat? I have a 18 5.7
If you want to set the computer to run the electric fan earlier than 205 degrees, you will need a tune to change that part.
Which coolant do i use for my 2017 Ram 1500 HEMI?
Please call your local Dodge Ram dealer and get with their parts department. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
EVERYBODY TALKS ABOUT USING DISTILLED WATER…LOL, DO YOU THINK THAT (ANY) DEALERSHIP ON THE PLANET USES (DISTILLED WATER), WHEN DOING A COOLANT FLUSH? PEOPLE HAVE WAY TO MUCH TIME ON THEIR HANDS!
LOL... I have absolutely used tap water when I don't have distilled water on-hand. You do whatever you want and how you want it. The proper thing here is distilled water, especially considering the amount of "additives" in most county supplied tap water. We are supposed to torque lug nuts too, but most people don't, however it doesn't make not torquing lug nuts the right thing to do.
It is always interesting how youtubers like you can take the time to leave comments like this, but have ZERO content on UA-cam to contribute to helping others. Must be a lonely way to go about consuming oxygen!
@@KevinWilsonSBCmy thought while doing mine is use a hose garden hose to do a through flush, use coolant flush, etc, then after I drain all the tap and fill with distilled, drain, then refill with coolant/distilled. Should be good! Besides, after flush I replaced the pump, T-stat, and both main hoses lol.
If it was that bad just let the dealer put a flush machine on it…DONE!
Absolutely not!!! LOL.
Man, that drill bit is dull as hell!
I would of just let it run and let the thermostat open and fill again, let it go a coupe of times. No need to drive it.
Your call. To get the air pocket out I had to drive it as I tried your approach first. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
What would happen if I don’t burp the air out of the coolant system the way you did with a funnel? … I was wondering if air will eventually get to the top of the radiator where I can just open the cap and let the air out.
@@gerardr4869 if you don't bleed all the air out of the coolant system, the coolant will not be able to flow properly and will not cool the block, resulting in a much higher chance of catastrophic failure.
Air causes the water pump to cavitate hence loss of flow volume, hot spots in engine. Air must be removed.
There is an air bleeder port near the thermostat for a reason. Use it!!!
To much talking
Yeah... my channel has way too much instructional info for your liking. LOL! Take care and appreciate the comment and keeping it so brief with as few of words as necessary.🤣
Maybe for you, but for a project like this, I want to hear the details with nothing left out.